U.S. patent number RE30,638 [Application Number 06/094,170] was granted by the patent office on 1981-06-09 for multi-gauge knit fabric with fleece inlay yarn.
This patent grant is currently assigned to Austen Bryars of London, Inc.. Invention is credited to David J. J. Bryars.
United States Patent |
RE30,638 |
Bryars |
June 9, 1981 |
Multi-gauge knit fabric with fleece inlay yarn
Abstract
A double knit fabric of a given gauge (usually fine gauge) is
provided with an inlay of a coarser gauge yarn on a knitting
machine with two needle beds. One side of the fabric is formed of
only relativey fine gauge yarn and the relatively coarser inlay
yarn is confined to the other or surface side of the fabric.
Selected needles in one of the needle beds are replaced by drive
elements. The inlay yarn is laid in by an inlay wheel driven in
synchronization with the needle bed by said drive elements.
Inventors: |
Bryars; David J. J.
(Leicestershire, GB2) |
Assignee: |
Austen Bryars of London, Inc.
(Greensboro, NC)
|
Family
ID: |
22243572 |
Appl.
No.: |
06/094,170 |
Filed: |
November 14, 1979 |
Related U.S. Patent Documents
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Application
Number |
Filing Date |
Patent Number |
Issue Date |
|
|
640945 |
Dec 5, 1975 |
4043152 |
Aug 23, 1977 |
|
Reissue of: |
826059 |
Aug 19, 1977 |
04125001 |
Nov 14, 1978 |
|
|
Current U.S.
Class: |
66/191;
66/9R |
Current CPC
Class: |
D04B
9/16 (20130101); D04B 1/12 (20130101) |
Current International
Class: |
D04B
1/10 (20060101); D04B 1/12 (20060101); D04B
9/16 (20060101); D04B 9/00 (20060101); D04B
001/04 () |
Field of
Search: |
;66/9R,194,191,196,190 |
References Cited
[Referenced By]
U.S. Patent Documents
Foreign Patent Documents
Primary Examiner: Schroeder; Werner H.
Assistant Examiner: Falik; Andrew M.
Attorney, Agent or Firm: Hunt; Clifton T.
Parent Case Text
RELATED APPLICATIONS
This application is a division of application Ser. No. 640,945,
filed Dec. 5, 1975, and entitled INLAY WHEEL AND METHOD (now U.S.
Pat. No. 4,043,152 issued Aug. 23, 1977.
Claims
I claim:
1. A double knit fabric comprising cylinder and dial wales formed
from a fine denier body yarn .Iadd.on a machine with two needle
beds .Iaddend.and including a relatively heavy denier inlay yarn
confined by body yarn stitches to only one surface of the fabric
wherein said inlay yarn is interengaged with stitches of said body
yarn only on alternate wales of the same course .Iadd.defined by
one needle bed .Iaddend.and on .[.consecutive.].
.Iadd.non-consecutive .Iaddend.courses of the same wale and wherein
every fourth consecutive cylinder and dial wale is non-knit
.Iadd.being defined by the deactivation of selected needles in one
of said needle beds.Iaddend.. .Iadd.2. A double knit fabric
comprising cylinder and dial wales formed from a fine denier body
yarn on a machine with two needle beds and including a relatively
heavy denier inlay yarn confined by body yarn stitches to only one
surface of the fabric where said inlay yarn is interengaged with
stitches of said body yarn only on alternate wales of the same
course defined by one needle bed and on non-consecutive courses of
the same wale and wherein selected wales are non-knit being defined
by the deactivation of selected needles in one of said needle beds.
.Iaddend.
Description
BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION
The majority of double knit machines in existence today are fine
gauge machines and more particularly 18 gauge machines. These
machines were used to knit the majority of the double knit fabrics
used in making slacks and trousers for ladies and gentlemen. But
today many of these 18 gauge machines stand idle because of
decreased demand for the fabric customarily produced on these
machine.
Recently, there has appeared an apparatus utilizing a wheel for
inlaying a yarn into fabric being knit on a double knit machine.
See British Pat. No. 1,382,286 published Jan. 29, 1975. The inlay
wheel in said British Patent comprises a shaft with a drive gear
fixed to one end and a plurality of vanes fixed to the other end,
each of which successively registers with the space between two
adjacent needles in either the dial or cylinder bed, as desired.
The drive gear has teeth which mesh with the stems or needles as
the needle bed rotates in a conventional manner during knitting.
Engagement of successive needle stems with the drive gear on the
inlay wheel causes the inlay wheel to rotate on its shaft in the
same direction as its associated needle bed and present successive
vanes to the needle bed which register with the spaces between
successive pairs of adjacent needles. The inlay yarn is trained
circumferentially around successive vanes on one side of the inlay
wheel and the vanes lay the inlay yarn on selected needles advanced
to the tuck position and beneath other needles retained in welt
position. The rotation of the inlay wheel delivers the inlay yarn
to the needle bed and it is the correspondence in spacing of the
gear teeth and the stems of the needles that causes the inlay wheel
to rotate and deliver the inlay yarn to selected needles
preparatory to being laid in the fabric.
Difficulty has been experienced in the use of the needle stems to
rotate the inlay wheel because the critical correlation of spacing
between the vanes and the spacing between needles in the needle bed
is not reliably maintained; that is the rotation of the vanes on
the inlay wheel is not reliably synchronized with the rotation of
the dial. Consequently, the vanes sometimes hit the needles instead
of meshing with the space between adjacent needles, causing a
smash-up.
According to the invention, selected needles are removed
(preferably alternate needles to half gauge the machine) to
accommodate the inlay of coarse yarn, and the removed needles are
replaced with drive elements which provide improved means to rotate
the vanes of the inlay wheel in reliably precise synchronization
with the rotation of the needle bed. The drive elements are of
sturdier stock than the delicate needle stems used in the prior art
to impart rotation to the drive gear and the drive elements are
provided with butts so as to be under control of the needle cams
but the drive elements do not have hooks or latches and play no
part in knitting. The drive elements directly contact the vanes to
impart rotational movement thereto as the needle bed rotates so
that the separate gear of the prior art is eliminated.
The use of the inlay wheel in combination with the novel drive
elements enables the production of a novel .[.two.]. .Iadd.fine
.Iaddend.gauge ground or body yarn and the surface side is
apparently formed of a heavy or coarse gauge yarn; although in
reality the heavy yarn is laid in spaced courses and tightly locked
in place by stitches of the ground yarn.
SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION
It is an object of the invention to provide a serviceable and
decorative multi-gauge fabric .[.or.]. .Iadd.of .Iaddend.novel
construction on a conventional fine gauge double knit machine.
It is another object of the invention to provide a novel method and
apparatus for producing said fabric on said machine.
BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS
FIG. 1 is a vertical sectional view, partially in elevation, of
fragments of the dial and needle cylinder of a double knit machine
and an associated inlay wheel,
FIG. 2 is a view similar to FIG. 1 but looking at the right side of
FIG. 1 and showing the novel drive elements which replace alternate
dial needles after the dial has been half-gauged;
FIG. 3 is .[.an enlarged.]. .Iadd.a somewhat schematic perspective
.Iaddend.view of the inlay wheel in use; .[.and illustrating its
relevant spacing to the knitting needles and drive elements.].
FIG. 4 is an elevation of a drive element of this invention removed
from the machine;
FIG. 4A is an elevation of a prior art knitting needle removed from
the machine;
FIG. 5 is a view similar to FIG. 1 but in elevation;
FIG. 6 is a diagram of a first inlay construction;
FIG. 7 is a stitch construction according to the diagram of FIG. 6;
and
FIGS. 8 and 9 are diagrams of alternate inlay constructions within
the scope of the invention.
DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION
Referring more specifically to the drawings, the numeral 10 broadly
designates the dial of a double knit machine having a plurality of
radially extending grooves or tricks 11 within each of which
conventionally radially reciprocable dial knitting needles 12. The
machine also conventionally includes a needle cylinder 13 having
vertically reciprocable needles 25 whose configuration is the same
as the dial needles 12. In the illustrated embodiment, an inlay
wheel 15 is associated with the dial 10. The usual form of camming
arrangement is provided for operating the dial and cylinder
needles, and the usual feed stations are circumferentially spaced
around the machine from each of which fabric 14 extends.
It will be understood that the inlay wheel 15 may be associated
with the cylinder of the machine and whereas in the construction
shown in the drawings the dial and cylinder rotate, these parts may
be fixed and the cylinder cam box and the dial cap rotated.
The attachment 15 includes a frame B which is adapted to be secured
to the dial cap (not shown). The frame mounts a spindle 17 on which
is mounted the inlay wheel 15 having on its periphery,
circumferentially spaced and radially extending vanes or blades 20.
The circumferential spacing of the blades 20 is approximately the
width of two adjacent grooves 11. Thus, as most clearly seen in
FIG. 2, adjacent blades 20 straddle adjacent grooves 11. Each blade
is provided at its outer end with a V-shaped recess 21 to receive
inlay yarn Y.
The frame mounts a yarn guide 16 for the inlay yarn Y and
tensioning means (not shown) may be provided on the frame so that
the tension of the inlay yarn may be adjusted. The guide 16 feeds
the inlay yarn to V-shaped recesses 21 as best seen in FIGS. 1 and
5. The attachment is mounted intermediate a pair of thread feeds of
the machine at a position which would normally be occupied by a
thread feed so that there may be as many inlay attachments as there
are thread feeds depending on the effect required in the finished
fabric. In the illustrated embodiment, there is an inlay wheel
attachment at every eighth feed, as is apparent from FIGS. 6-9.
According to the invention, selected needles are removed from the
dial. This serves the dual purpose of providing additional space
between dial knitting needles to accommodate a much coarser yarn
than the body or ground yarn from which the fabric 14 is knit, and
of providing space for the insertion of drive elements 30. In the
illustrated embodiment alternate dial needles are removed so that
the dial is half-gauged. A drive element is positioned in each of
the vacant tricks or grooves 11 from which a dial needle has been
removed. Each drive element 30 is dimensioned like the needle it
replaces and includes butts 31 engagable with the conventional cams
for actuating the elements 30 like the knitting needles during the
knitting cycle. The drive elements 30 are under control of the
conventional camming and are radially reciprocable within their
respective grooves 11 according to a selected pattern. The drive
elements differ from the knitting needles only in that the elements
are slightly shorter than the needles, the elements do not have any
hooks or latches and play no part in the formation of stitches, and
the stem of the element is sturdier than the corresponding stem of
the needle. The elements 30 function as spacers between needles and
as drive members to engage the vanes 20 on the inlay wheel 15
responsive to rotation of the dial in a given direction indicated
by the arrow D in FIG. 2. Engagement of vanes 20 by the driving
elements 30 imparts rotation to the inlay wheel 15 in the same
direction of movement as the dial 10.
Referring to FIG. 2, it will be observed that the peripheral
spacing of the vanes 20 on the inlay wheel 15 coincides with the
spacing between adjacent elements 30 in the dial 10, it being
understood that there is a dial needle 12 between adjacent drive
elements 30. Thus, in FIG. 2, it is shown that vane 20A is engaged
by drive .[.elements.]. .Iadd.element .Iaddend.30A just before vane
20B will be engaged by driving element 30B.
With a mechanical set-up as described above, the dial and cylinder
needles form the fabric 14 from body or ground yarn such as
.[.15.]. .Iadd.75 .Iaddend.denier monofilament, for example. The
fabric 14 may be of any desired construction such as Ponti Di Roma,
Swiss .[.Bouque.]. .Iadd.Pique .Iaddend.or the like. A plurality of
inlay wheels 15 are positioned about the circumference of the dial
10, there being an inlay wheel at every eighth feed in the
described form of invention to inlay yarn Y at every eighth course
of the fabric. The inlay yarn Y is of a higher .Iadd.denier
.Iaddend.yarn such as, for example, 1500 denier and is locked to
the fabric 14 formed from the .[.15.]. .Iadd.75 .Iaddend. denier
ground yarn in such a way as to appear only on the front or surface
side of the fabric. In the completed fabric the higher denier inlay
yarn Y substantially obscures the fine denier body yarn on the
surface of the fabric and gives the appearance the entire fabric is
formed of heavy denier yarn when in fact the heavy denier yarn is
only laid in every eight courses or more or less as desired.
The inlay yarn Y is locked into the fabric 14 by presenting it from
the inlay wheel 15 to selected needles 12t in the tuck position
while passing selected needles 12w in the welt position. As most
clearly seen in FIG. 3, the selected needles in the tuck position
are the alternate odd numbered needles and the selected needles in
the welt position are the intervening even numbered needles.
According to FIGS. 6 and 7, the inlay yarn Y is layed on the
alternate odd numbered dial needles 12(1), 12(3), 12(5) in tuck
position and .[.floated across.]. .Iadd.beneath .Iaddend.the
intervening .[.alternate.]. even numbered dial needles 12(2),
12(4), 12(6) in welt position and also .[.floated across.].
.Iadd.beneath .Iaddend.the space occupied by intervening drive
elements 30. Consequently, in the illustrated embodiment of FIGS. 6
and 7 the inlay yarn Y is laid in every .Badd..[.4th.]..Baddend.
.Iadd.8th .Iaddend.wale and .[.floated across.]. .Iadd.beneath
.Iaddend.the .[.three.]. .Iadd.seven .Iaddend.intervening wales.
.[., the alternate even numbered of every fourth wale being
non-knit.]. The body yarn 29, according to FIGS. 6 and 7, is knit
on .[.every.]. .Iadd.alternate odd numbered .Iaddend.cylinder
.[.needle.]. .Iadd.needles (1), 25(3) and 25(5) .Iaddend.in the
inlay course 1 and on alternate odd numbered dial needles .[.12.].
.Iadd.12(1), 12(3), 12(5) .Iaddend.in course 1. In course 2 of
FIGS. 6 and 7 the body yarn 29 is knit on the .Iadd.even numbered
.Iaddend.dial needles 12.Iadd.(2), 12(4), 12(6) .Iaddend..[.but is
not knit.]. .Iadd.and .Iaddend.on .[.any.]. .Iadd.all .Iaddend.of
the cylinder needles 25. .Iadd.Course 3 is produced on all the dial
needles. The odd numbered dial needles 12(1), 12(3), 12(5) tuck the
inlay yarn Y with their previously formed loops in course 1. This
action moves the lay of the inlay yarn Y forward two courses within
the fabric which effectively locks the inlay yarn Y within the
structure of the fabric. .Iaddend. It is apparent from .[.FIG. 6.].
.Iadd.FIGS. 6 and 7 .Iaddend.that this arrangement results in the
body yarn 29 being knit all around the inlay yarn Y when it is laid
on the alternate odd numbered dial needles 12, that is it is
confined between body yarn knit in .[.the same wale in adjacent
courses.]. .Iadd.alternate dial wales of the same course
.Iaddend.and between the body yarns knit in .[.adjacent wales in
the same course.]. .Iadd.non-consecutive courses of the same wale.
.Iaddend.
In the .[.alternate.]. .Iadd.alternative .Iaddend.inlay
construction of FIG. 8, the inlay course is also represented at 1
and the inlay yarn Y is laid on the odd numbered dial needles
12.Iadd.(1), 12(3), 12(5) .Iaddend.in tuck position and .[.floated
across.]. .Iadd.beneath .Iaddend.the intervening wales where the
even numbered dial needles 12.Iadd.(2), 12(4), 12(6) .Iaddend.are
in welt position. .[.As in FIG. 6 the.]. .Iadd.The .Iaddend.body
yarn 29 is knit on all the cylinder needles in course 1 and on the
odd numbered alternate dial needles 12. In FIG. 8, however, the
inlay yarn Y is locked in position by knitting the body yarn 29 on
the same dial needles 12 in course .[.2.]. .Iadd.4 .Iaddend.of FIG.
8.
The construction of FIG. 9 .[.is similar to FIG. 8, the only
difference occurring in courses 2 and 6. Courses 2 and 6 of FIG. 9
are the same as the corresponding courses in FIG. 6, where the
ground yarn is not knit on the cylinder needles, but is knit on all
the dial needles..]. .Iadd.lays yarn in every fourth course,
alternate inlay yarns Y being laid on the even numbered dial
needles 12(2), 12(4), 12(6) and intervening inlay yarns Y.sup.1
being laid on the odd numbered dial needles 12(1), 12(3), 12(5).
The body yarn 29 is knit on corresponding dial needles in
respective inlay courses and on the odd numbered cylinder needles
in each inlay course. .Iaddend.
The drive elements 30 are indicated at X in the diagram of FIG. 6
and the effect of the drive elements 30 is shown by the non-knit
area in every fourth wale of FIG. 7, there being three wales of
knit construction between adjacent element wales.
There is thus provided a novel method of knitting on a conventional
fine gauge double knit machine and the resulting fabric which
includes a relatively course inlay yarn securely locked in and
completely dominating the front or surface side of the fabric, to
provide a highly ornamental and useful fabric. The scope of the
invention is defined in the following claims.
* * * * *