U.S. patent number 5,302,378 [Application Number 07/899,402] was granted by the patent office on 1994-04-12 for self-tanner cosmetic compositions.
This patent grant is currently assigned to Chesebrough-Pond's USA Co.. Invention is credited to Brian A. Crotty, Philip D. Ziegler.
United States Patent |
5,302,378 |
Crotty , et al. |
April 12, 1994 |
**Please see images for:
( Certificate of Correction ) ** |
Self-tanner cosmetic compositions
Abstract
A composition and method for self-tanning of skin is provided
which includes an .alpha.-hydroxy substituted ketone or aldehyde
such as dihydroxyacetone, an anionic silicone copolyol such as
dimethicone copolyol phosphate and a pharmaceutically acceptable
carrier. Advantageously, there may also be incorporated at least
15% propylene glycol to improve color intensity.
Inventors: |
Crotty; Brian A. (Branford,
CT), Ziegler; Philip D. (Oxford, CT) |
Assignee: |
Chesebrough-Pond's USA Co.
(Greenwich, CT)
|
Family
ID: |
25410900 |
Appl.
No.: |
07/899,402 |
Filed: |
June 17, 1992 |
Current U.S.
Class: |
424/59;
424/78.03 |
Current CPC
Class: |
A61K
8/35 (20130101); A61Q 19/04 (20130101); A61K
8/899 (20130101); A61K 8/896 (20130101) |
Current International
Class: |
A61Q
19/04 (20060101); A61K 007/42 (); A61K
031/74 () |
Field of
Search: |
;424/63,59,78.03 |
References Cited
[Referenced By]
U.S. Patent Documents
Foreign Patent Documents
Other References
J Soc. Cosmet. Chem., 35, pp. 265-272 (Aug. 1984) (Bobin et al.).
.
Agric. Biol. Chem., 44 (7), pp. 1595-1599 (Kawashima et
al.)..
|
Primary Examiner: Page; Thurman K.
Assistant Examiner: Gardner; Sally
Attorney, Agent or Firm: Honig; Milton L.
Claims
What is claimed is:
1. A method for improving color intensity of a tan imparted by
dihydroxyacetone comprising applying to the skin a composition
comprising:
(i) from about 0.1 to about 40% by weight of dihydroxyacetone;
(ii) from about 0.1 to about 20% by weight of an anionic silicone
copolyol;
(iii) an amount of propylene glycol such that the weight ratio of
dihydroxyacetone to propylene glycol ranges between about 2:1 to
about 1:50;
(iv) from about 5 to about 95% by weight of a pharmaceutically
acceptable vehicle for delivering components (i), (ii) and (iii) to
the skin.
Description
BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION
1. Field of the Invention
The invention concerns a cosmetic composition which imparts a tan
similar in color to a natural suntan onto the skin.
2. The Related Art
Today there is a great health concern with natural tanning through
sunlight. Ultraviolet radiation from the sun is considered to be a
leading factor in causing skin cancer. Even if not lethal,
ultraviolet radiation has been acknowledged as accelerating aging
and wrinkling processes on the skin.
Beyond health concerns, there are obvious practical reasons against
natural tanning. Foremost is the reason that in many areas of the
globe and during all but summertime, there is insufficient sunlight
available to accomplish a natural tan.
Based on the above considerations, there has been much interest in
effectuating a tan through cosmetic means. Dihydroxyacetone
(hereinafter known as DHA) has widely been utilized in cosmetics to
accomplish self-tanning of the skin. In the J. Soc. Cosmet. Chem.,
35, pages 265-272 (August 1984), Bobin et al. studied the Maillard
reaction of DHA with various amino acids found naturally in the
hydrolipid film and first layers of the stratum corneum. The
Maillard reaction method has commonly been utilized as an
artificial tanning system since 1960.
Other studies on the Maillard reaction between DHA and amino acids
have been reported in Agric. Biol. Chem., 44 (7), pages 1595-1599
(Kawashima et al.). Through this study it was determined that the
rate of browning was maximum around a DHA-amino acid molar ratio of
1.5 when the total concentration of both reactants together was
constant at 0.1M. Lysine and glycine were found to have the highest
browning activity.
Another approach to the tanning problem is reported in Australian
Patent 61950/90 to L'Oreal. The art had earlier appreciated that
both DHA and 5,6-dihydroxy indole and certain of its derivatives
would each independently cause coloration in the skin; the
mechanisms were each believed to be different. The Australian
patent teaches that a combination of these materials achieves a
rapidly developed intense coloration much closer to the hue
imparted by natural tanning than the colorations obtained with each
of the compounds taken separately. Since DHA and indole are
unstable in the presence of one another, the patent further
suggested delivering these compounds from separate compartments of
a multi-compartment kit.
Although there has been great progress in sunless self-tanning
compositions as noted above, considerable further progress is
needed to increase speed of coloration and achieve a coloration
even closer to a natural tan. For medical safety reasons, it is
also preferred to avoid use of indoles. Furthermore, many of the
known self-tanning compositions have storage stability problems.
DHA can rapidly decompose in many formulations. Streaking is a
still further problem faced by the art. By the term "streaking" is
meant noneven deposition on the skin; the tan coloration tends to
migrate along an outer perimeter as a result of the formula being
rubbed around upon the skin.
Accordingly, it is an object of the present invention to provide a
composition and method for self-tanning having improved rates of
coloration and imparting a more natural hue.
A further object of the present invention is to provide a
composition and method for self-tanning which utilizes ingredients
that impart good aesthetics and have an impeccable health safety
profile.
A still further object of the present invention is to provide a
composition and method for self-tanning which utilizes mutually
compatible ingredients that do not decompose upon storage.
Still another object of the present invention is to provide a
composition and method for self-tanning which avoids the streaking
phenomena.
These and other objects of the present invention will become more
readily apparent through the following summary, detailed discussion
and Examples which follow.
SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION
A cosmetic composition is provided comprising:
(i) from about 0.1 to about 40% by weight of a C.sub.3 -C.sub.24
.alpha.-hydroxy substituted ketone or aldehyde;
(ii) from about 0.1 to about 20% by weight of an anionic silicone
copolyol; and
(iii) an effective amount of a pharmaceutically acceptable vehicle
for delivering components (i) and (ii) to skin.
Advantageously, the cosmetic composition further includes propylene
glycol in amounts from about 15 to 90% by weight, optimally between
about 25 and 45% by weight. When dihydroxyacetone is utilized as
the .alpha.-hydroxy substituted ketone, the weight ratio of
dihydroxyacetone to propylene glycol may advantageously be kept
between about 2:1 to about 1:50.
A method is also provided for imparting a natural-appearing,
nonstreaking tan to skin comprising the delivery and spreading of
the aforementioned cosmetic composition onto the skin.
DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION
Now it has been discovered that a natural appearing self-tan of
improved color intensity and nonstreakiness can be achieved by
delivering to the skin a combination of a C.sub.3 -C.sub.24
.alpha.-hydroxy substituted ketone or aldehyde along with an
anionic silicone copolyol.
According to the invention the C.sub.3 -C.sub.24 .alpha.-hydroxy
substituted ketone or aldehyde will be present in an amount from
about 0.1 to about 40%, preferably from about 1 to about 20%,
optimally between 2 and 15 by weight.
The .alpha.-hydroxy substituted ketone or aldehyde may be selected
from dihydroxyacetone, glucose, xylose, fructose, reose, ribose,
pentose, arabinose, allose, tallose, altrose, mannose, galactose,
lactose, sucrose, erythrose, glyceraldehyde and combinations
thereof. Most preferred is dihydroxyacetone.
A critical second component is that of an anionic silicone
copolyol. This substance reduces streaking and provides an
important skinfeel advantage to compositions of the present
invention. Anionic radicals attached to the silicone copolyol of
this invention may include phosphates, sulfates, sulfosuccinates,
carboxylates and combinations thereof. Illustrative substances are
dimethicone copolyol phosphate, dimethicone copolyol
sulfosuccinate, dimethicone copolyol carboxylate and dimethicone
copolyol sulfate. Most preferred is dimethicone copolyol phosphate
available from Phoenix Chemical, Inc. sold under the trademark
Pecosil PS-100.RTM..
Advantageously, there may also be incorporated propylene glycol at
levels of at least 15% preferably between about 25 and 90%,
optimally between about 25 and 45% by weight. Propylene glycol at
these high levels was found to improve color intensity on the skin
when combined with dihydroxyacetone. Especially preferred is a
combination of dihydroxyacetone and propylene glycol in a weight
ratio from about 2:1 to about 1:50. Preferably the weight ratio may
range from about 1:1 to about 1:10, optimally about 1:8.
While dyes such as indole derivatives may be incorporated into the
composition, for health and performance reasons, it may be
desirable to formulate in the absence of indole derivatives.
A wide variety of pharmaceutically acceptable vehicles may be
utilized for the present invention.
Water is a preferred vehicle or carrier for the compositions of
this invention. The amount of water may range from about 5 to about
95%, preferably from about 30 to about 80%, optimally between about
40 and 70% by weight.
Contemplated within the scope of this invention are water-in-oil
emulsions in the form of lotions and creams. Oil advantageously is
the continuous phase. The amounts of the oil to water phases may
range from about 2:1 to 1:100, preferably about 1:1 to 1:10.
Among other types of pharmaceutically acceptable vehicles may be
silicone oils. Silicone oils may be divided into the volatile and
nonvolatile variety. The term "volatile" as used herein refers to
those materials which have a measurable vapor pressure at ambient
temperature. Volatile silicone oils are preferably chosen from
cyclic or linear polydimethylsiloxanes containing from about 3 to
about 9, preferably from about 4 to about 5, silicon atoms.
Linear volatile silicone materials generally have viscosities less
than about 5 centistokes at 25.degree. C. while cyclic materials
typically have viscosities of less than about 10 centistokes.
Examples of preferred volatile silicone oils useful herein include:
Dow Corning 344, Dow Corning 345 and Dow Corning 200 (manufactured
by Dow Corning Corp.); Silicone 7207 and Silicone 7158
(manufactured by the Union Carbide Corp.); SF 1202 (manufactured by
General Electric); and SWS-03314 (manufactured by SWS Silicones,
Inc.).
The nonvolatile silicone oils useful in compositions of this
invention are exemplified by the polyalkyl siloxanes, polyalklyaryl
siloxanes and polyether siloxane copolymers. The essentially
nonvolatile polyalkyl siloxanes useful herein include, for example,
polydimethyl siloxanes with viscosities of from about 5 to about
100,000 centistokes at 25.degree. C. Among the preferred
nonvolatile silicones useful in the present compositions are the
polydimethyl siloxanes having viscosities from about 10 to about
400 centistokes at 25.degree. C. Such polyalkyl siloxanes include
the Viscasil series (sold by General Electric Company) and the Dow
Corning 200 series (sold by Dow Corning Corporation). Polyalkylaryl
siloxanes include poly(methylphenyl)siloxanes having viscosities of
from about 15 to about 65 centistokes at 25.degree. C. These are
available, for example, as SF 1075 methylphenyl fluid (sold by
General Electric Company) and 556 Cosmetic Grade Fluid (sold by Dow
Corning Corporation). Useful polyether siloxane copolymers include,
for example, a polyoxyalkylene ether copolymer having a viscosity
of about 1200 to 1500 centistokes at 25.degree. C. Such a fluid is
available as SF-1066 organosilicone surfactant (sold by General
Electric Company). Cetyl dimethicone copolyol and cetyl dimethicone
are especially preferred because these materials also function as
emulsifiers and emollients.
Silicones may be present in amounts ranging from about 0.1 up to
about 60%, preferably from about 2 to about 25%, optimally between
about 10 and 20% by weight.
Synthetic esters are a further category of possible
pharmaceutically acceptable vehicles which can also be utilized as
emollients within compositions of the invention. Among the suitable
esters are:
(1) Alkyl esters of fatty acids having 10 to 20 carbon atoms.
Methyl, isopropyl, and butyl esters of fatty acids are useful
herein. Examples include hexyl laurate, isohexyl laurate, isohexyl
palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, decyl oleate, isodecyl oleate,
hexadecyl stearate, decyl stearate, isopropyl isostearate,
diisopropyl adipate, diisohexyl adipate, dihexyldecyl adipate,
diisopropyl sebacate, lauryl lactate, myristyl lactate, and cetyl
lactate. Particularly preferred are C.sub.12 -C.sub.15 alcohol
benzoate esters.
(2) Alkenyl esters of fatty acids having 10 to 20 carbon atoms.
Examples thereof include oleyl myristate, oleyl stearate, and oleyl
oleate.
(3) Ether-esters such as fatty acid esters of ethoxylated fatty
alcohols.
(4) Polyhydric alcohol esters. Ethylene glycol mono and di-fatty
acid esters, diethylene glycol mono- and di-fatty acid esters,
polyethylene glycol (200-6000) mono- and di-fatty acid esters,
propylene glycol mono- and di-fatty acid esters, polypropylene
glycol 2000 monooleate, polypropylene glycol 2000 monostearate,
ethoxylated propylene glycol monostearate, glyceryl mono- and
di-fatty acid esters, polyglycerol poly-fatty esters, ethoxylated
glyceryl monostearate, 1,3-butylene glycol monostearate,
1,3-butylene glycol distearate, polyoxyethylene polyol fatty acid
ester, sorbitan fatty acid esters, and polyoxyethylene sorbitan
fatty acid esters are satisfactory polyhydric alcohol esters.
(5) Wax esters such as beeswax, spermaceti, myristyl myristate,
stearyl stearate.
(6) Sterols esters, of which cholesterol fatty acid esters are
examples thereof.
The compositions of the invention can also include
thickeners/viscosifiers in amounts up to about 10% by weight. As
known to those skilled in the art, the precise amount of thickeners
can vary depending upon the desired consistency and thickness of
the composition. Exemplary thickeners are trihydroxystearin,
xanthan gum, sodium carboxymethyl cellulose, hydroxyalkyl and alkyl
celluloses, and cross-linked acrylic acid polymers such as those
sold by B.F. Goodrich under the Carbopol trademark. Especially
preferred is Sepigel 305, a polyacrylamide thickener (containing
also some C.sub.13 -C.sub.14 isoparaffin and Laureth-7) sold by
Seppic, Inc. of Fairfield, N.J.
Compositions of the present invention may also include emulsifiers
or surfactants which may be of the nonionic, anionic, cationic or
amphoteric type. Examples of satisfactory nonionic emulsifiers
include fatty alcohols having 10 to 20 carbon atoms, fatty alcohols
having 10 to 20 carbon atoms condensed with 2 to 20 moles of
ethylene oxide or propylene oxide, alkyl phenols with 6 to 12
carbon atoms in the alkyl chain condensed with 2 to 20 moles of
ethylene oxide, mono and di-fatty acid esters of ethylene glycol
wherein the fatty acid moiety contains from 10 to 20 carbon atoms,
fatty acid monoglyceride wherein the fatty acid moiety contains
from 10 to 20 carbon atoms, polyoxyethylene sorbitol,
polyoxypropylene sorbitan, and hydrophilic wax esters. Amounts of
the emulsifier may range anywhere from about 0.1 to about 20% by
weight of the composition, preferably from about 2 to about 10% by
weight.
Among other skin benefit agents which may be present in the
compositions of this invention are fatty acids and alcohols having
from 10 to 20 carbon atoms. Suitable examples of the fatty acids
include pelargonic, lauric, myristic, palmitic, stearic,
isostearic, hydroxystearic, oleic, linoleic, ricinoleic, arachidic,
behenic, and erucic acids. Examples of satisfactory fatty alcohols
include lauryl, myristyl, cetyl, hexadecyl, stearyl, isostearyl,
hydroxystearyl, oleyl, ricinoleyl, behenyl, erucyl, and 2-octyl
dodecanyl alcohols. These materials may be present in amounts
anywhere from about 0.1 to about 20% by weight of the
composition.
A sunscreen agent is a further desirable ingredient of the
compositions of this invention. The term "sunscreen agent" as used
herein defines ultraviolet ray-blocking compounds exhibiting
absorption within the wavelength region between 290 and 400 nm.
Sunscreens may be classified into five groups based upon their
chemical structure: para-amino benzoates; salicylates; cinnamates;
benzophenones; and miscellaneous chemicals including menthyl
anthralinate and digalloyl trioleate. Inorganic sunscreens may also
be used including titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, iron oxide and
polymer particles such as those of polyethylene and polyamides.
Preferred materials include particles such as those of polyethylene
and polyamides. Preferred materials include p-aminobenzoic acid and
its derivatives, anthralinates; salicylates; cinnamates; courmarin
derivatives; azoles; and tannic acid and its derivatives.
Preservatives can desirably be incorporated into the cosmetic
compositions of this invention to protect against the growth of
potentially harmful microorganisms. While it is in the aqueous
phase that microorganisms tend to grow, microorganisms can also
reside in the oil phase. As such, preservatives which have
solubility in both water and oil are preferably employed in the
present compositions. Suitable traditional preservatives for
compositions of this invention are alkyl esters of
parahydroxybenzoic acid. Other preservatives which have more
recently come into use include hydantoin derivatives, proprionate
salts, and a variety of quaternary ammonium compounds. Cosmetic
chemists are familiar with appropriate preservatives and routinely
choose them to satisfy the preservative challenge test and to
provide product stability. Particularly preferred preservatives are
phenoxyethanol (phenoxetol), methylparaben, imidazolidinyl urea,
sodium dehydroxyacetate, propylparaben, trisodium ethylenediamine
tetraacetate (EDTA) and benzyl alcohol. The preservative should be
selected having regard for possible incompatibilities between the
preservative and other ingredients. Preservatives are preferably
employed in amounts ranging from about 0.01% to about 2% by weight
of the composition.
Minor adjunct ingredients may also include fragrances, antifoam
agents, opacifiers (e.g. titanium dioxide) and colorants, each in
their effective amounts to accomplish their respective
functions.
The following examples will more fully illustrate the embodiments
of this invention. All parts, percentages and proportions referred
to herein and in the appended claims are by weight unless otherwise
indicated.
EXAMPLE 1
The following formula is typical of compositions according to the
present invention.
______________________________________ Ingredient Wt. %
______________________________________ Deionized Water 66.4470
Propylene Glycol 25.0000 Pecosil PS-100 1.0000 Dihydroxyacetone
3.0000 Sepigel 305 2.3744 Diglycerin .5000 Glycerin .5000 Sodium
Hydroxide .3032 Phenoxetol .3000 Methylparaben .2000 Fragrance
.2000 Propylparaben .1000 Titanium Dioxide .0750
______________________________________
EXAMPLE 2
A series of experiments were conducted to evaluate the effect of
various glycols on the color reaction with 3% dihydroxyacetone.
These experiments are reported in Table I below.
TABLE I ______________________________________ Color Inensity
Imparted on Skin by DHA with Solvent Color Intensity
______________________________________ Polyols 25% Glycerin ++ 25%
Carbowax 200 ++++ 25% Carbowax 200 ++++++ 12.5% Propylene Glycol
12.5% Propylene Glycol +++ 7.5% Carbowax +++++ 12.5% Propylene
Glycol 22.5% Propylene Glycol +++++ 25% Propylene Glycol ++++++ 45%
Propylene Glycol ++++++++ 48% Butylene Glycol +++++ 25% Diethylene
Glycol +++ Monoethyl Ether Others 45% Acetamide MEA + 45% Lactamide
MEA No color ______________________________________
Based on the results listed in the Table, it is evident that
propylene glycol has a color enhancing interaction with
dihydroxyacetone. Other glycols such as glycerine, butylene glycol
and diethylene glycol monoethyl ether were operative but not to the
same extent as propylene glycol. Levels of 45% propylene glycol
were much more effective than lower levels.
The foregoing examples illustrate only selected embodiments of the
present invention and should be considered nonlimiting examples
with variations and modifications thereof all being within the
spirit and purview of this invention.
* * * * *