U.S. patent number 3,908,672 [Application Number 05/449,432] was granted by the patent office on 1975-09-30 for novel process for improving and modifying the properties of hair.
This patent grant is currently assigned to Societe Anonyme dite: L'Oreal. Invention is credited to Jean-Claude Arnaud, Pierre Bore, Gregoire Kalopissis.
United States Patent |
3,908,672 |
Bore , et al. |
September 30, 1975 |
Novel process for improving and modifying the properties of
hair
Abstract
Process for improving and modifying the properties of living
human hair which comprises subjecting the hair to stretching by
mechanical deformation, and converting from 10 to 50% of the
cystine in the hair to lanthionine. The conversion is accomplished
in an aqueous medium with an alkaline composition.
Inventors: |
Bore; Pierre (Montfermeil,
FR), Arnaud; Jean-Claude (Paris, FR),
Kalopissis; Gregoire (Paris, FR) |
Assignee: |
Societe Anonyme dite: L'Oreal
(Paris, FR)
|
Family
ID: |
19727278 |
Appl.
No.: |
05/449,432 |
Filed: |
March 8, 1974 |
Foreign Application Priority Data
Current U.S.
Class: |
132/202;
132/206 |
Current CPC
Class: |
A61Q
5/04 (20130101); A61K 8/19 (20130101) |
Current International
Class: |
A45D
19/16 (20060101); A45D 19/00 (20060101); A45D
7/04 (20060101); A45D 7/06 (20060101); A45D
7/00 (20060101); A45D 007/00 () |
Field of
Search: |
;132/7,9 ;8/161
;424/71 |
References Cited
[Referenced By]
U.S. Patent Documents
Foreign Patent Documents
Primary Examiner: McNeill; G. E.
Attorney, Agent or Firm: Cushman, Darby & Cushman
Claims
What is claimed is:
1. A process for improving and modifying the properties of living
human hair which comprises subjecting the hair to a stretching by
mechanical deformation and treating said hair in an aqueous medium
with a composition consisting essentially of an alkali or alkaline
earth metal hydroxide base and having a pH between about 10.5 and
13 for a time sufficient to convert about 10 to 50% of the cystine
of the hair into lanthionine, while maintaining the hair in the wet
state during the treatment.
2. The process of claim 1 wherein about 15 to 50% of the cystine is
transformed into lanthionine.
3. The process of claim 1 wherein the hair to be treated has been
previously degraded and has a relative degree of cystine less than
the normal content by at least 10% and the process is applied so as
to reduce correspondingly the degree of lanthionization.
4. The process of claim 1 wherein the hair is treated at a
temperature between about 25.degree. and 120.degree.C for
sufficient time to obtain the degree of lanthionine desired.
5. The process of claim 4 wherein said composition has a pH of
between 12.5 and 13, and the process is carried out at a
temperature between about 30.degree. and 120.degree.C for from
about 5 to 60 minutes.
6. The process of claim 5 wherein the temperature is from about
30.degree. to 50.degree.C and the treatment time is between about
20 and 60 minutes.
7. The process of claim 5 wherein the temperature is between
50.degree. and 80.degree.C and the treatment time is between 10 and
50 minutes.
8. The process of claim 5 wherein the temperature is between
80.degree. and 120.degree.C, and the treatment time is between 5
and 20 minutes.
9. The process of claim 4 wherein said composition also contains a
lanthionization activator selected from the group consisting of
electrolytes that are neutral from an oxidation-reduction
standpoint; reducing agents having a limited hydrolytic action on
the S--S bonds of cystine; and cationic surfactant compounds; said
treatment being carried out for about 5 to 60 minutes at a
temperature between 30.degree.-120.degree.C.
10. The process of claim 9 wherein the temperature is between
30.degree. and 50.degree.C and the treatment time is between 15 and
60 minutes.
11. The process of claim 9 wherein the temperature is between
50.degree. and 80.degree.C and the treatment time is between 5 to
10 minutes and 40 minutes.
12. The process of claim 9 wherein the temperature is between
80.degree. and 120.degree.C, and the treatment time is between 5
and 20 minutes.
13. The process of claim 9 wherein the electrolytes are inorganic
electrolytes and are present at a concentration of up to 5 moles
per liter.
14. The process of claim 9 wherein the electrolytes are organic
electrolytes and are present at a concentration of up to one mole
per liter.
15. The process of claim 9 wherein the reducing agents are alkali
or alkaline earth metal sulfides and are present at a concentration
of up to 3 .times. 10.sup..sup.-2 moles per liter.
16. The process of claim 4 wherein the temperature is between about
50.degree. to 80.degree.C, and 80 to 120.degree.C and the hair is
rolled up on heated hair curlers.
17. The process of claim 4 wherein the temperature is between
30.degree. and 50.degree.C and the hair is either rolled on hair
curlers or on hair setting rollers, or is subjected to a mechanical
smoothing with the aid of a comb.
18. The process of claim 4 wherein the hair is subjected to a
stretching by mechanical deformation corresponding to a stretching
of the order of 1 to 3% of the wet hair.
19. The process of claim 4 wherein the composition contains at
least one hydroxide selected from the group consisting of calcium
hydroxide, lithium hydroxide, sodium hydroxide, and potassium
hydroxide.
20. The process of claim 4 in which the composition is in the form
of a gel or a cream containing an oil-in-water emulsion.
21. The process of claim 9 wherein said reducing agent is an alkali
or alkaline earth metal sulfite present in amounts between
10.sup..sup.-3 and 10.sup..sup.-1 moles per liter.
22. A process for improving and modifying the properties of living
human hair which comprises subjecting the hair to a stretching by
mechanical deformation and treating said hair in an aqueous medium
with a composition having a pH of between 10.5 and 13, said
composition consisting essentially of an alkali or alkaline earth
metal hydroxide base and a lanthionization activator selected from
the group consisting of cetyl trimethylammonium bromide present in
amounts of up to 3.times.10.sup..sup.-2 moles per liter and a
quaternary ammonium hydroxide present in amounts up to
10.sup..sup.-1 moles per liter, said treatment being carried out
for about 5 to 60 minutes at a temperature between 30.degree. and
120.degree.C.
Description
The present invention has for its object a novel process for
improving and modifying the properties of hair, in particular
living human hair.
It is already known how to treat textile keratinous fibers to
transform at least a part of the cystine into lanthionine.
Such a treatment is performed in a known way on wool but it cannot
be used directly to treat living human hair.
Applicants have now discovered, in a manner that completely
surprising, that when a considerable part of the cystine of the
hair is transformed into lanthionine, the qualities of the hair are
considerably improved and its cosmetic properties modified.
Hair having undergone this transformation called lanthionization
has a different composition and structure from that of normal hair,
which gives it interesting new properties.
Thus, lanthionized hair shows a great elasticity when it is in the
wet state.
This property is manifested more particularly when lanthionized
hair is subjected to combing in the wet state, for example after
shampooing. Then it has been found that lanthionized hair is much
more resistant to breaking and that a number of hairs broken during
such an operation is clearly less than that of natural hairs, i.e.,
unlanthionized.
Thus, when, for example, about 50% of the cystine was transformed
into lanthionine by the process according to the invention, the
number of hairs broken in the wet state is less than half the
number of hairs broken in the case of natural hairs.
Further, it has been found that hair subjected to a lanthionization
presents a holding after setting which is clearly improved.
Thus, if previously lanthionized hair is set and this setting is
compared with that on hair not treated according to the invention,
it is found that the holding of the setting is clearly higher in
the case of lanthionized hair, in an atmosphere of normal relative
humidity, i.e., between about 50 and 70%.
This property is the more marked the greater the percentage of
cystine transformed into lanthionine.
This characteristic of lanthionized hair means that, after setting,
this hair, in an atmosphere of normal relative humidity, resumes
its initial form less rapidly than untreated hair.
It is proper to note that the treatment of hair according to the
invention, when it is accompanied by a smoothing with the aid of a
comb, constitutes an excellent means of decurling or
deglossing.
It has also been found that hair subjected to lanthionization
according to the process of the invention presents a greater
permeability to hair treating agents than untreated hair. This
improved permeability generally facilitates all capillary
treatments, in particular dyeing operations, whether direct dyeing
or oxidation dyeing is involved, and bleaching operations. Thus
dyeing and bleaching are realized more easily and rapidly than in
the case of untreated hair and, in addition, the intensity of the
coloring is improved.
Further, in treating lanthionized hair with standard capillary
products intended to give the hair more suppleness or brilliance,
better results are obtained than in the case where the same
treatment is applied to unlanthionized hair.
Moreover, it has also been found that hair, of which a considerable
part of the cystine has been transformed into lanthionine, presents
an alkaline solubility less than that of natural hair not treated
according to the invention. By alkaline solubility is meant the
loss of weight by putting in the presence of an N/4 sodium
hydroxide solution at a temperature of 65.degree.C.
It should be noted that lanthionization of hair gives it
irreversible properties which it keeps during its entire life. This
is particularly the case for better holding of a setting which is
retained for all successive settings, without it being necessary to
use any additional product, even if these later settings are simply
done with water.
In conformance with the present invention, the process consists of
submitting to a lanthionization treatment human hair that is
subjected to an extension by mechanical deformation. This
mechanical deformation is asble to be realized by either a
longitudinal stretching (for example a smoothing, by uncurling,
with the aid of a comb) or by rolling about curlers or hair setting
rollers.
When the hair is subjected during treatment to an extension by
mechanical deformation, it is necessary, in order to obtain an
interesting improvement of the cosmetic qualities of the hair, to
transform about 10 to 50%, and preferably about 15 to 50%, of the
cystine into lanthionine.
To achieve this result, according to the invention, one subjects
the hair to an extension by mechanical deformation, treatitng it in
an aqueous medium with a composition having a pH of between about
10.5 and 13, for a sufficient time to obtain the desired proportion
of lanthionine, keeping the hair in the wet state during the entire
treatment.
According to the process of the invention, the treatment is
generally effectuated on hair subjected to an extension by a
mechanical deformation corresponding to a stretching of the order
of 1 to 3%, and preferably from 1 to 2% of wet hair.
This stretching is able to be obtained by either rolling the hair
on curlers or on hair setting rollers, or in subjecting the hair to
a decurling by combing, that is to say, a mechanical smoothing of
the hair with the aid of a comb.
In order to maintain the hair in a wet state during treatment, it
is possible, for example, to cover the hair with an impermeable cap
in order to avoid all loss of water, or yet to envelop, with the
aid of a thin sheet of aluminum, the curlers on which the locks of
hair are enrolled.
The compositions utilized in the process defined hereinabove are
preferably hydroxide bases of the alkali metals or alkaline earth
metals. One is able in particular to utilize Ca(OH).sub.2, LiOH,
NaOH, KOH, or their mixtures, without this listing being
limiting.
The molar concentration of these alkali or alkaline earth metal
hydroxides is determined by the desired value of the pH, which
should be between 10.5 and 13.
In the case where the process of the invention is utilized in order
to treat living hair, in subjecting it to an extension by
mechanical deformation, the above process should be practiced at a
sufficiently high temperature so that the treatment period is not
too long, this temperature, however, being bearable by the
hair.
The treatment is effectuated at a temperature between about
25.degree. to 30.degree. and 120.degree.C.
The period of treatment, which is a function of the proportion of
the lanthionine desired, varies according to the treatment
conditions, and particularly according to the composition used, and
the temperature, as will be explained in detail below.
Therefore, theoretically the period of treatment can vary from a
few minutes to a few hours, but, for practical reasons, the
characteristics of the process of the present invention have been
selected so that the treatment period is not less than five
minutes, or preferably, about ten minutes, and is not greater than
about 60 minutes.
Of course, it is necessary to rinse carefully the hair after
treatment.
The proportion of lanthionization which is obtained by the
treatment according to the invention (that is to say the percentage
of cystine which is transformed into lanthionine) depends on the
different characteristics of the treatment.
Thus, the proportion of lanthionization is higher, the higher the
pH of the composition according to the invention.
The increase of temperature also plays a role in the sense of an
increase in the degree of lanthionization.
The influence of these different variables will be illustrated
below with concrete examples. When the process of the invention is
applied to dry hair, the degree of lanthienization is generally
higher than when applying the process to hair previously wetted. In
case it is possible to apply the process to dry hair, the pH or the
temperature may thus be lowered.
According to the invention, an effort should not be made to exceed
a degree of lanthionization of 50%, which seems to constitute an
optimum result for natural hair, that is to say, hair not having
previously undergone permanent deformation treatment or bleaching,
otherwise the hair is degraded without an increase in its degree of
lanthionization.
On the other hand, when hair is to be treated that has been
previously degraded by prior capillary treatments, that is to say
hair whose relative content of cystine is less than the normal
content by at least about 10%, in this case the degree of
lanthionization applied according to the process of the invention
should be reduced correspondingly.
To do this, the period of temperature of treatment, or the pH of
the composition should be reduced, for example, it would be
possible to use compositions having a pH of 10.5 to 12, at a
temperature between about 25 to 30.degree.C and 50.degree.C for a
period between 5 and 20 to 30 minutes.
According to a first embodiment of the invention, the hair is
subjected to a mechanical deformation, treating it in an aqueous
medium with a composite of a hydroxide base of an alkali or
alkaline earth metal having a pH between 12.5 and 13, at a
temperature between 30.degree. and 120.degree.C, for a sufficient
time to obtain the desired degree of lanthionine, this time being
between about 5 and 60 minutes.
It should be noted that when the composition is a simple, aqueous
solution of the alkaline base, the treatment time should be longer
than in the case of a composition in gel or cream form, if it is
desired to obtain a comparable degree of lanthionization. A
particular example illustrating this phenomena will be given
further on.
In order to put the first embodiment into practice at the selectd
temperature, one can roll up the hair, subjecting it to an
extension by mechanical deformation, as indicated above, on heated
rollers in the case where heating is necessary in order to obtain a
particular temperature, that is to say, temperatures between
50.degree. and 120.degree.C.
But if one desires to operate between 30.degree. and 50.degree.C,
it is sufficient to heat the hair, if necessary, to the temperature
selected, by means of warm air, for example, under a heating hood.
One is able in this case, in order to subject the hair to the
requisite mechanical tension, either to roll it on hair setting
rollers, or on ordinary curlers (non-heated), or in the case of
uncurling, subjecting it to a mechanical smoothing with the aid of
a comb.
The nature of the hydroxide giving the composition its pH between
about 12.5 and 13 does not have a critical influence on the
treatment according to the invention. For example, it is possible
to use the following hydroxides: Ca(OH).sub.2, LiOH, NaOH, KOH, or
their mixtures without this list being limiting.
The molar concentration of the alkali or alkaline earth metal
hydroxides or their mixtures in the composition is determined by
the desired value of the pH of the composition, which should be
between 12.5 and 13.
The particular operating conditions according to the first
embodiment of the invention, as a function of the temperature at
which it is desired to operate can be made precise as indicated
below. When operating between 30.degree. and 50.degree.C
(preferably between 40.degree. and 50.degree.C), the treatment
period must be of the order of 20 to 60 minutes. However, if the
composition is a simple aqueous solution with an alkaline base, the
treatment period should be at least 30 to 40 minutes.
When operating between 50.degree. and 80.degree.C, the treatment
period must be of the order of 10 to 50 minutes.
When operating between 80.degree. and 120.degree.C, the treatment
period must be of the order of 5 to 20 minutes.
To illustrate more concretely the influence of temperatures and the
treatment period, there are given below the results obtained in
treating hair with a solution of 0.1 N sodium hydroxide solution
(pH = 13), the hair being subjected to an extension corresponding
to a stretching of about 2% of the wet hair.
The results are summarized in the following table.
TABLE 1 ______________________________________ Temperature Time in
Degree of in C.degree. minutes lanthionization in %
______________________________________ 40 30 13 60 22 60 10 12 40
40 80 10 23.5 20 50 120 10 36
______________________________________
According to a second embodiment of the invention, it is also
possible to perform the lanthionization treatment with compositions
having an alkali or alkaline earth metal hydroxide base, but, in
addition, comprising particular substances which have the effect of
making it possible to reduce the time, temperature, and/or the pH
of the treatment. Hereafter these substances will be designated as
"lanthionization activator".
According to the second embodiment, one subjects the hair to a
mechanical deformation, treating them in an aqueous medium with the
aid of a composition having a pH between about 10.5 and 13, at a
temperature between 30.degree. and 120.degree.C, for a sufficient
period to obtain the desired degree of lanthionization, this period
being about 5 to 60 minutes, said composition having an alkali
metal or alkaline earth metal hydroxide base and containing a
lanthionization activator selected from the group consisting of
electrolytes that are neutral from an oxidation-reduction
standpoint, reducing agents having a limited hydrolytic action on
the S-S bonds on the cystine, and cationic surfactants.
The alkali or alkaline earth metal hydroxides that can be used in
the second embodiment of the process of the invention are
particularly Ca(OH).sub.2, LiOH, NaOH, KOH, or their mixtures.
Their concentration is a function of the desired value of the pH
which must be between 10.5 and 13.
The neutral electrolytes from an oxidation-reduction standpoint,
can be inorganic electrolytes, such as alkali halides, such as, for
example, sodium chloride or lithium bromide, the alkaline earth
halides such as calcium chloride, or the alkali or alkaline earth
sulfates such as sodium, potassium, or calcium sulfate. They are
preferably utilized in a concentration of up to 5 moles per
liter.
The electrolytes, neutral from an oxidation-reduction standpoint,
can also be organic electrolytes such as guanidine carbonate, and
are preferably used in a concentration of up to one mole per
liter.
The reducing agents having a limited hydrolytic action on the S-S
bonds of the cystine, can include, for example, alkali or alkaline
earth sulfides, in a concentration up to 3 .times. 10.sup.116 2
moles per liter or alkali or alkaline earth sulfites at a
concentration between 10.sup.116 3 and 10.sup.116 1 moles per
liter.
The activators, made up of cationic surface active compounds, can
include, for example, cetyl-trimethylammonium bromide (known under
the trademark Cetavlon) at a concentration of up to 3 .times.
10.sup.116 2 moles per liter, or a quaternary ammonium hydroxide
such as that known as Hyamine 10 X, at a concentration of up to
10.sup.116 1 moles per liter.
It should be noted that according to the second embodiment of the
process of the invention, the treatment of the hair can give rise
to different modes of execution, depending upon the temperature of
the treatment.
In order to operate between 50.degree. and 120.degree.C, one is
able, for example, to roll the hair subjecting it to an extension
by mechanical deformation as indicated above, on heated
curlers.
In order to operate between 30.degree. and 50.degree.C, one is able
to heat the hair if necessary, at the chosen temperature with the
aid of warm air, for example, under a heated hood.
One is equally able to operate without heating, that is to say, in
practice between 30.degree. to 35.degree. and 40.degree.C.
In these last two cases, in order to subject the hair to the
required mechanical tension, one can either roll the hair on hair
setting rollers or on curlers, or, in the case of decurling, submit
it to a mechanical smoothing with the aid of a comb.
The particular conditions of treatment according to the second
embodiment of the invention, can be as precise, as a function of
the temperature at which it is desired to operate, in the following
fashion.
When operating between 30.degree. and 50.degree.C, the treatment
period must be of the order of 15 to 60 minutes.
When operating between 50.degree. and 80.degree.C, the treatment
period must be between 5 and 10 minutes and 40 minutes.
When operating between 80.degree. and 120.degree.C, the treatment
period must be between 5 and 20 minutes.
To illustrate more concretely, the influence of temperature and the
treatment period, and in order to illustrate equally the influence
of the lanthionization activators, there is given below the results
obtained in treating the hair with a 0.1 N sodium hydroxide
solution, to which has been added lithium bromide, so that the
lithium bromide concentration is between 0.1 M and 3.8 M, which
leads to a lowering of the pH which varies as a consequences from
11.8 to 10.5, the hair being submitted to a mechanical tension
corresponding to a stretching of about 2% of the wet hair.
The results are summarized in the following table
TABLE 2 ______________________________________ Temperature Time in
Degree of lanthionization in % in .degree.C minutes pH 10.5 pH 11
pH 12 pH 12.8 ______________________________________ 40 20 13 15 18
40 10 60 24 30 34 60 10 15 18 25 30 35 40 35 45 36 80 10 45 35 20
50 42 45 120 10 50 ______________________________________
The compositions used according to the invention are advantageous
in gel or cream form, with sufficient consistency for the
composition to be retained naturally on the hair. In this way there
is prevented a considerable evaporation of the aqueous phase, which
should be retained in order to assure practice of the process
according to the invention. Actually, according to the invention,
it is necessary that the hair be kept in the wet state during the
entire treatment period.
Further, the cream or gel should be such that the aqueous phase
containing the active substances can come into contact and assure
impregnation of the hair.
These emulsions constituting the composition are preferably of the
oin-in-water type.
The compositions according to the present invention are prepared
according to the usual methods.
They comprise adjuvants usually used in creams or gels,
particularly, polyoxyethylene glycols; other polyethers such as
nonyphhenol polyethoxyethers; fatty acids such as oleic acid; fatty
alcohols such as oleyl alcohol; hydroxyethyl cellulose; etc.
It should be noted that according to the invention the alkaline
composition which makes it possible to achieve the transformation
of cystine into lanthionine should not contain alcohol or only
contain a slight alcohol content (preferably less than 10%) because
the presence of alcohol increases the alkaline solubility of the
hair.
The treatment according to this invention is clearly distinguished
from standard processes of hair treatment such as those which are
used for permanent deformations, oxidizing, dyeing, or bleachings,
because these treatments are always carried out under conditions
different from those according to the invention, and they
practically always take place in a medium that is both alkaline and
oxidizing.
At the time of these standard treatments, it seems that a certain
amount of Keratocystine (K-S-S-K) is temporarily transformed into
lanthionine (K-S-K), but since the nascent lanthionine is very
sensitive to oxdizing agents, (peroxide, persulfate, etc.) it
immediately gives rise to the formation of oxides corresponding to
the formula K-SO--K and K--SOO--K, K being the residue of the
keratinous molecule.
Such a transformation is irreversible, and at the time of
hydrochloric hydrolysis of hair treated by extended processes,
comprising such oxides, these latter decompose in order to give
cysteic acid (K--SO.sub.3 --).
On the other hand, when hair is treated according to the invention,
a considerable formation of lanthionine is obtained which is stable
in regard both to alkaline agents and acid agents.
Hair treated according to the invention shows, after having
undergone a hydrochloric hydrolysis, a degree of lanthionine which
remains unchanged and which is always reproducible under precise
dosing conditions.
There is indicated below the way to determine the degree of
lanthionization under consideration in the present application.
Definition of degree of lanthionization
The degree is equal to the percentage of initial cystine bonds of
the natural hair transformed into lanthionine bonds during the
treatment.
Technique of analysis of the hair
Principle
The different amino acids are repeated by chromatography on
sulfonic type ion exchange resin after hydrochloric hydrolysis,
followed by a ninhydrin colorimetery and a quantative determination
in relation to a standard.
Equipment
Technicon TSM 1 autoanalyser
Technique: according to the Technicon methodology
Elution buffers: sodium citrate
Buffer 1 pH 3.25 0.2N Na.sup.+ 0.1 M citrate 6% methanol Buffer 2
pH 3.15 0.2N Na.sup.+ 0.1 M citrate 6% methanol Buffer 3 pH 4.25
0.2N Na.sup.+ 0.1 M citrate 6% methanol Buffer 4 pH 6.00 0.37 N 0.1
M citrate 6% methanol
Mode of operation
20 mg of dry hair (dried at 120.degree. for 20 minutes) are
carefully weighed.
The hair is hydrolyzed with 5 ml of 5.6 N (azeotrope) hydrochloric
acid in a sealed test tube. It is left in an oven at 120.degree.C
for 4 hours with agitation.
The tube is opened and the hydrolysate is brought to dryness in a
rotary evaporator at 35.degree.C under vacuum. The residue is
dissolved with 10 ml of distilled water and again dried.
10 ml are quantitatively transferred with decinormal hydrochloric
acid into a graduated flask. 0.1 ml is deposited in 2 shallow
dishes.
A control deposit of 0.05 ml is made, in two shallow dishes, of the
standard solution containing 2.5 moles per ml of each amino acid
and in particular lanthionine.
CALCULATIONS
1. Surfaces S and S standard are noted on the chromatograms
obtained respectively with the hydrolysate of hair and with the
standard solution for the batches of each amino acid.
2. For each amino acid there is calculated ##EQU1## a formula
wherein K represents the amount (in g) of each amino acid present
in 100 g of hair
Mw is the molecular weight of the amino acid considered
Sa is the sampling in mg of hair
3. Degree of lanthionization
The amount of cystine present in the average undegraded hair is
16%.
Degree of lanthionization: L = K lanthionine .times. 7.2.
There is indicated below a method of treatment of hair according to
the present invention, the compositions utilized being for example,
those that are described later in the examples.
TREATMENT ON ROLLERS OR CURLERS
The wet hair is rolled up on rollers or heated curlers, then with
the aid of a brush, the rolled hair on each curler is coated
separately with the cream or gel according to the invention. The
hair is protected, for example, by means of a plastic bonnet in
order to avoid evaporation. Contact is permitted for the time
necessary for the desired treatment.
One effectuates an abundant rinsing and a gentle shampooing and
finishes the treatment with a normal hair setting (water or aqueous
solution) on rollers or curlers.
There is indicated below some examples of the treatments which can
be realized according to one of the methods of application which
has just been defined.
In these examples, there is indicated the constituents of the
compositions used, the temperature, the time and the pH of
treatment, and the proportion of lanthionization obtained, as well
as, in certain cases, the improvement of the holding of the setting
of the hair.
The rate of lanthionization was determined as indicated above.
Improvement of the holding of the setting can be determined by the
following process:
DETERMINATION OF THE IMPROVEMENT OF THE HOLDING OF THE SETTING
Definition: Improvement of the holding of a lock of treated hair
after wetting and drying on rollers, subjected to a release under
the action of its own weight in an atmosphere of fixed relative
humidity (65%) for 2 hours at 22.degree.C, in relation to a lock of
natural hair.
TECHNIQUE
EQUIPMENT
Plastic box (35 .times. 45 .times. 30 cm) provided with small fan
permitting homogenization, with opening in the lid.
The relative humidity set at 65% is obtained with a saturated
solution of sodium nitrite.
MODE OF OPERATION
Locks of 800 mg and about 240 mm of useful length are wetted by
dipping in a beaker of 250 ml of distilled water, then rolled on
rollers 2 cm in diameter.
Drying is for 2 hours in an oven at 60.degree.C.
After cooling at ambient temperature, the locks are removed from
the rollers and suspended by small clips on the inside of the
measuring enclosure.
The uncurling is followed by watching the end of the locks which
uncurl in front of a stiff sheet of paper marked off in
millimeters. Each series of measurements is made in comparison with
a control lock (untreated natural hair).
Readings are made every 5 minutes for 2 hours and 30 minutes. A
final reading is made after 16 hours.
CALCULATIONS
Improvement of the holding of the setting is given by the formula
##EQU2## wherein:
, l.sub.c is the length of the control lock after 2 hours
uncurling
l.sub.x is the length of the treated lock after 2 hours
uncurling
l is the length of the lock at rest (.congruent.240 mm).
EXAMPLE 1
Formula: Gel ______________________________________ Hydroxyethyl
cellulose WP 4400 4 g Hydrated lithium oxide (LiOH, H.sub.2 O) 2 g
Potassium sulfate (K.sub.2 SO.sub.4) 17.4 g Water sufficient for
100 g pH gel: 12.7 Use: temperature: 40.degree.C time: 25 minutes
______________________________________
Degree of lanthionization on wet hair: 18
EXAMPLE 2
Formula: Gel ______________________________________ Hydroxyethyl
cellulose WP 4400 4 g Hydrated lithium oxide (LiOH,H.sub.2 O) 2 g
Sodium chloride (NaCl) 17.5 g Water sufficient for 100 g pH gel:
11.7 Use: temperature: 40.degree.C time: 30 minutes
______________________________________
Degree of lanthionization (application to dry hair): 24%
Improvement of the holding of the setting: +28%
EXAMPLE 3
Formula: Gel ______________________________________ Hydroxyethyl
cellulose WP 4400 4 g Hydrated lithium oxide (LiOH, H.sub.2 O) 1.5
g Sodium sulfite (Na.sub.2 SO.sub.3) 0.62 g Water sufficient for
100 g pH gel: 12.3 Use: temperature: 40.degree.C Time: 40 minutes
______________________________________
Degree of lanthionization on wet hair: 20%
EXAMPLE 4
Formula: Gel ______________________________________ Hydroxyethyl
cellulose WP 4400 4 g Hydrated lithium oxide (LiOH, H.sub.2 O) 2 g
Lithium bromide (LiBR) 26 g Water sufficient for 100 g pH gel: 11
Use: temperature: 45.degree.C time: 15 minutes
______________________________________
Degree of lanthionization on dry hair: 35%
Improvement of the holding of the setting: +43%
Degree of lanthionization on wet hair: 20%
Improvement of the holding of the setting: +19%
EXAMPLE 5
Formula: Gel ______________________________________ Hydroxyethyl
cellulose WP 4400 4 g Sodium hydroxide (NaOH) 1 g Water sufficient
for 100 g pH gel: 12.6 Use: 1) temperature 50.degree.C time: 30
minutes ______________________________________
Degree of lanthionization on wet hair: 19%
EXAMPLE 6
Formula: Cream ______________________________________ Nonylphenol
polyethoxyether (n=4) 12 g Nonylphenol polyethoxyether (n=8) 10 g
Oleic Acid 3 g Triethanolamine 7 g Oleyl alcohol 8 g Ethanol 10 g
Calcium oxide (CaO) 12.5 g Water sufficient for 100 g pH of cream:
12.7 Use: temperature: 60.degree.C time: 20 minutes
______________________________________
Degree of lanthionization on dry hair: 44%
Improvement of the holding of the setting: +50%
Degree of lanthionization on wet hair: 23%
Improvement of the holding of the setting: +27%
EXAMPLE 7
Formula: Gel ______________________________________ Hydroxyethyl
cellulose WP 4400 4 g Sodium hydroxide (NaOH) 2 g Lithium bromide
(LiBr) 8.7 g Water sufficient for 100 g pH gel 12.1 Use:
temperature: 60.degree.C time: 20 minutes
______________________________________
Degree of lanthionization on wet hair: 19%
EXAMPLE 8
Formula: Gel ______________________________________ Hydroxyethyl
cellulose WP 4400 4 g Hydrated lithium oxide (LiOH, H.sub.2 O) 2 g
Cetavlon 10 g Water sufficient for 100 g pH gel: 12.4 Use:
temperature: 60.degree.C time: 30 minutes
______________________________________
Degree of lanthionization on dry hair: 42%
Degree of lanthionization on wet hair: 28%
EXAMPLE 9
Formula: Gel ______________________________________ Hydroxyethyl
cellulose WP 4400 4 Sodium hydroxide (NaOH) 1.6 g Strontium sulfide
at 60% 0.36 g Water sufficient for 100 g pH gel: 12.8 Use:
temperature: 70.degree.C time: 15 minutes
______________________________________
Degree of lanthionization on wet hair: 22%
EXAMPLE 10
Formula: Gel ______________________________________ Hydroxyethyl
cellulose WP 4400 4 g Hydrated lithium oxide (LiOH, H.sub.2 O) 2 g
Lithium bromide (LiBr) 34.8 g Water sufficient for 100 g pH gel:
10.5 Use: temperature 80.degree.C time : 10 minutes
______________________________________
Degree of lanthionization on wet hair: 18%
EXAMPLE 11
Formula: Gel ______________________________________ Hydroxyethyl
cellulose WP 4400 4 g Hydrated lithium oxide (LiOH, H.sub.2 O) 1.25
g Guanidine carbonate 18 g Water sufficient for 100 g pH gel: 12.6
Use: temperature: 80.degree.C time: 15 minutes
______________________________________
Degree of lanthionization on wet hair: 21.5%
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