U.S. patent number 3,906,091 [Application Number 05/405,869] was granted by the patent office on 1975-09-16 for hair-setting lotion containing a reducing agent.
This patent grant is currently assigned to Societe Anonyme dite: L'Oreal. Invention is credited to Giuliana Ghilardi, Charles Zviak.
United States Patent |
3,906,091 |
Zviak , et al. |
September 16, 1975 |
Hair-setting lotion containing a reducing agent
Abstract
A hair setting lotion composition comprises in combination an
aqueous solution of a lower alkanol, a cosmetic film-forming resin
and a reducing agent selected from the group consisting of butyl
hydroxy anisole, dodecyl gallate, propyl gallate and octyl gallate.
The reducing agent is generally present in amounts of about 0.02-2%
by weight of the composition.
Inventors: |
Zviak; Charles (Franconville,
FR), Ghilardi; Giuliana (Paris, FR) |
Assignee: |
Societe Anonyme dite: L'Oreal
(Paris, FR)
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Family
ID: |
27350645 |
Appl.
No.: |
05/405,869 |
Filed: |
October 12, 1973 |
Related U.S. Patent Documents
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Application
Number |
Filing Date |
Patent Number |
Issue Date |
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100840 |
Dec 22, 1970 |
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Foreign Application Priority Data
Current U.S.
Class: |
424/70.15;
132/204; 424/62; 8/415; 424/DIG.2; 424/70.2; 424/70.6 |
Current CPC
Class: |
A61Q
5/08 (20130101); A61K 8/8182 (20130101); A61K
8/347 (20130101); A61Q 5/06 (20130101); A61K
8/37 (20130101); A61K 8/8176 (20130101); Y10S
424/02 (20130101) |
Current International
Class: |
A61K 007/06 ();
A61K 007/11 () |
Field of
Search: |
;100/840
;424/DIG.2,70,71 ;132/7 |
References Cited
[Referenced By]
U.S. Patent Documents
Foreign Patent Documents
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1,174,539 |
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Nov 1958 |
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FR |
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1,239,062 |
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Apr 1963 |
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DT |
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Other References
Sagarin, Cosmetics-Science and Technology, Interscience Publishers,
New York, (1957) pp. 199-202 and 1066-1069. .
Rosenwald, American Perfumer and Cosmetics, Vol. 78, No. 10, pp.
41-44, October 1963..
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Primary Examiner: Meyers; Albert T.
Assistant Examiner: Clarke; Vera C.
Attorney, Agent or Firm: Cushman, Darby & Cushman
Parent Case Text
This application is a continuation-in-part of my application Ser.
No. 100,840, filed Dec. 22, 1970, now abandoned.
Claims
What is claimed is:
1. A hair-setting lotion composition having a pH of about 5-8.5 for
bleached hair or hair dyed with an oxidation dye, consisting
essentially of a solution of a cosmetic film forming resin having a
molecular weight of about 10,000-400,000 and a reducing agent
selected from the group consisting of butyl hydroxy anisole,
dodecyl gallate, propyl gallate and octyl gallate, in an aqueous
lower alkanol solvent wherein said lower alkanol contains 1-4
carbon atoms and is present in an amount of about 20 to 50 percent
by weight of said composition, said reducing agent being present in
an amount of about 0.02 to 2 percent by weight of said composition
and said cosmetic film forming resin being present in an amount of
about 1 to 3 percent by weight of said composition.
2. The composition of claim 1 wherein the cosmetic film forming
resin is polyvinylpyrrolidone having a molecular weight of
40,000-400,000.
3. The composition of claim 1 wherein the cosmetic film forming
resin is a copolymer of vinylpyrrolidone and vinyl acetate, 70%:30%
to 30%:70%, having a molecular weight of 40,000-400,000.
4. The composition of claim 1 wherein said cosmetic film forming
resin is a copolymer of crotonic acid and vinyl acetate, 10%:90%
having a molecular weight of 45,000-70,000.
5. A method for treating peroxide containing human hair for
neutralizing the peroxide therein comprising contacting said
peroxide-containing hair with an effective amount to neutralize
said peroxide of an aqueous or hydroalcoholic solution containing a
member selected from the group consisting of butyl hydroxy anisole,
dodecyl gallate, propyl gallate and octyl gallate present in an
amount of about 0.02 to 2 percent by weight of said solution.
6. A method for treating peroxide-containing human hair for
neutralizing the peroxide therein comprising contacting said
peroxide-containing hair with an effective amount to neutralize
said peroxide of a solution of a cosmetic film forming resin having
a molecular weight of about 10,000-400,000 and a reducing agent
selected from the group consisting of butyl hydroxy anisole,
dodecyl gallate, propyl gallate and octyl gallate, in an aqueous
lower alkanol solvent wherein said lower alkanol contains 1-4
carbon atoms and is present in an amount of about 20 to 50 percent
by weight of said solution, said reducing agent being present in an
amount of about 0.02 to 2 percent by weight of said solution and
said cosmetic film forming resin being present in an amount of
about 1 to 3 percent by weight of said solution.
Description
This invention relates to hair-setting lotions intended essentially
for hair having undergone an oxidizing treatment, this oxidizing
treatment being able to be either a bleaching operation or a dyeing
with oxidization dyes.
It is known that oxidizing agents used during bleaching or
oxidation dyeing, and in particular hydrogen peroxide, damage the
keratinous fibers, so that hair subjected to such oxidizing
treatments quickly becomes porous, fragile and brittle.
It is also known that these oxidizing agents, and in particular
hydrogen peroxide, penetrate in small amounts into the hair during
treatment. Consequently, after treatment, traces of the oxidizing
agent remain in the hair which ordinary rinsing, careful as it
might be, cannot entirely eliminate.
In the case of bleached hair, the presence of these traces of
oxidizing agent constitute a threat to the holding of further
dyeing to which the hair is usually subjected, this oxidizing agent
contributing to the destructive action of the air and light in
regard to the dyeing. For the same reason, in the case of
oxidization dyeings the coloring of the hair often fades rather
rapidly in time.
From what has been said, it can be seen how important it is to
eliminate these traces of the oxidizing agent, or at least to
prevent their destructive action in regard to dyes applied
simultaneously or later to the hair.
In an attempt to remove hydrogen peroxide residue from human hair
several agents have been suggested in the prior art. For instance,
catalase was suggested (Swiss Pat. No. 264,760) as well as
thiourea, thiosulfates, dithionite, hypophosphite and ascorbic
acid. Further, U.S. Pat. No. 3,218,234 which discloses the
disadvantages of employing the above referred to agents, teaches
the use of a .alpha.-carbonyl monocarboxylic acid such as pyruvic
acid and glyoxylic acid. It has been found however that the use of
a composition containing such an acid, for instance, pyruvic acid,
does not provide the uniformity of a subsequent dyeing operation as
is achieved when the hair containing residual peroxide values is
treated with the composition of the present invention.
For this purpose a hair-setting lotion intended for bleached hair
and hair having undergone dyeing with oxidation dyes has now been
developed, this hair-setting lotion being characterized by the
presence therein of an agent which protects the dye by neutralizing
the oxidizing agent present in the fiber.
Thus one object of the present invention is the provision of a
method for treating peroxide-containing human hair for neutralizing
the peroxide therein comprising contacting said peroxide-containing
hair with a member selected from the group consisting of
butylhydroxy anisole, dodecyl gallate, propyl gallate and octyl
gallate in amounts effective to neutralize said peroxide.
The present invention also has for an object a hair-setting lotion
characterized by the fact that it comprises an aqueous solution of
a lower alkanol, a cosmetic film-forming resin and at least one
organic reducing compound of the substituted phenol family,
selected from the group consisting of butylhydroxy anisole, dodecyl
gallate, isopropyl gallate and octyl gallate.
The amount of reducing agent used in the compositions according to
the invention can vary from about 0.02 to about 2% by weight and
preferably from about 0.05 to about 0.5% by weight.
The pH of the compositions according to the invention can vary
within broad limits. However, the pH generally ranges between 5 and
8.5.
The cosmetic film-forming resin employed in the composition of this
invention can be any of those conventionally employed in
hair-setting lotions. Generally such cosmetic film-forming resins
have a molecular weight ranging from about 10,000-400,000, or even
higher.
Representative cosmetic film-forming resins that can be employed
include polyvinylpyrrolidone having a molecular weight of
40,000-400,000; copolymer of vinylpyrrolidone and vinyl acetate,
70%:30% to 30%:70% having a molecular weight of 40,000-400,000;
copolymer of vinyl acetate and an unsaturated carboxylic acid such
as crotonic acid, 90%:10% having a molecular weight of 45,000 to
70,000; copolymer resulting from the polymerization of vinyl
acetate (75-85%), crotonic acid (5-15%) and an acrylic or
methacrylic ester (5-15%) or an alkylvinyl ether (5-15%); copolymer
resulting from the copolymerization of vinyl acetate (63-88%),
crotonic acid (5-15%) and (a) a vinyl ester of a long carbon chain
acid having 10-22 carbon atoms or (b) an alkyl or methalkyl ester
of a long carbon chain acid having 10-22 carbon atoms (5-25%);
copolymer resulting from the copolymerization of an ester derived
from an unsaturated alcohol having 2-12 carbon atoms and a
saturated short chain carboxylic acid having 2-5 carbon atoms
(65-80%) and an unsaturated acid having 4-20 carbon atoms (7-12%)
and at least one ester derived from a saturated alcohol having 8-18
carbon atoms and an unsaturated acid having 4-20 carbon atoms
(10-20%) and a copolymer resulting from the polymerization of at
least an unsaturated ester and at least an unsaturated acid. The
cosmetic film forming resin is used in amounts of about 1-3 percent
by weight of said composition.
Suitable alcohols employed in the compositions according to the
invention are low molecular weight alcohols and preferably lower
alkanols having 1-4 carbon atoms such as ethanol or isopropanol.
These alcohols are used in amounts of about 20 to 50% by weight of
the total composition.
The hair-setting lotions according to the invention can also
contain direct dyes, for example, nitro dyes, disperse dyes,
anthraquinone dyes, azo dyes, metalliferous dyes, acid dyes or
basic dyes.
These dyes can be introduced into the compositions according to the
invention in variable amounts, the proportions used depending on
the intensity of the color desired. However, the concentration of
dyes can vary most often between about 0.001 and 0.1% by weight of
the total composition.
The composition according to the invention can also contain solar
filters which are intended to protect, against the action of light,
the dyes that they contain or those already applied to the hair.
Representative solar filters include, for example, benzylidene
camphor, glyceryl para-amino benzoate, benzophenone or ethyl
paradimethylaminobenzoate. These solar filters are incorporated in
compositions according to the invention in amounts of about 0.03 to
2% by weight of the total composition.
Finally, the compositions according to the invention can contain
various ingredients usually used in cosmetics, such as wetting
agents, dispersing agents, swelling agents, penetrating agents,
softeners or perfumes, and even materials which can reduce
excessive secretion of sebum from the skin or scalp.
The hair-setting lotions according to the invention are applied in
a conventional manner to wet hair, which is then rolled up and
dried.
The compositions according to the invention can be applied either
on the day of dyeing or bleaching treatment, or several days or
weeks after this treatment, for instance, during a hair-setting
operation.
EXAMPLE 1
A hair-setting lotion having the following composition is
prepared:
Crotonic acid/vinyl acetate copolymer, 10%/90% (M.W. 45,000 to
70,000) 2 g Ethanol sufficient for 50.degree. titer Triethanolamine
sufficient for pH 5.5 Benzylidene camphor 0.2 g
Butylhydroxyanisole: (Mixture of 4-hydroxy 3-t-butylanisol and
4-hydroxy 2-t-butylanisol sold by Eastman Kodak under the
commercial name "TENOX BHA") 0.15 g C.I. Basic Violet 1 0.0012 g
Water sufficient for 100 cc
This hair-setting solution, applied to bleached wet hair, gives,
after drying, a bluish glint to the hair.
EXAMPLE 2
A colored hair-setting lotion of the following composition is
prepared:
Vinylpyrrolidone/vinyl acetate copolymer 70%/30% (M.W. 40,000 to
400,000) 2 g Ethanol sufficient for 50.degree. Triethanolamine,
sufficient for pH 7 Butylhydroxyanisole: (Mixture of 4-hydroxy
3-t-butylanisole and 4- hydroxy 2-t-butylanisole sold by Eastman
Kodak under the commercial name "TENOX BHA") 0.15 g Dodecyl gallate
0.03 g Benzylidene camphor 0.2 g C.I. Acid Black 2 0.015 g Water
sufficient for 100 cc
This hair-setting lotion, applied to wet, dyed hair, gives, after
drying, a bluish gray glint to the hair.
EXAMPLE 3
A hair-setting lotion of the following composition is prepared:
Vinylpyrrolidone/vinyl acetate copolymer 70%/30% (M.W. 40,000 to
400,000) 2 g Ethanol sufficient for 50.degree. Butylhydroxyanisole:
(Mixture of 4-hydroxy 3-t-butylanisol and 4- hydroxy
2-t-butylanisol sold by Eastman Kodak under the commercial name
"TENOX BHA") 0.2 g Water sufficient for 100 cc
This hair-setting lotion, applied to wet hair, previously dyed with
an oxidation dye, assures a better holding to the coloring.
EXAMPLE 4
A hair-setting lotion of the following composition is prepared:
Crotonic acid/vinyl acetate copolymer 10%/90% (M.W. 45,000 to
70,000) 2 g Isopropanol sufficient for 50.degree. titer
Triethanolamine sufficient for pH 8 Butylhydroxyanisole: (Mixture
of 4-hydroxy 3-t-butylanisol and 4- hydroxy 2-t-butylanisol sold by
Eastman Kodak under the commercial name "TENOX BHA") 0.15 g
Benzylidene camphor 0.2 g Benzophenone 0.06 g C.I. Acid Violet 56
0.05 g C.I. Acid Blue 156 0.08 g Water sufficient for 100 cc
The hair-setting lotion, applied to wet hair, dyed blond, gives,
after drying, an ashen glint to the hair.
EXAMPLE 5
The following comparative tests were made wherein, on the one hand
there was utilized a hair-setting lotion containing dodecyl gallate
as a reducing agent (in accordance with the present invention)
which hair-setting lotion was applied subsequent to a hair
bleaching operation using H.sub.2 O.sub.2 and prior to a hair
dyeing operation, and on the other hand there was employed a
hair-setting lotion containing pyruvic acid as a reducing agent,
which latter hair-setting lotion was also applied subsequent to
essentially the same hair bleaching operation using H.sub.2 O.sub.2
and prior to essentially the same hair dyeing operation.
Each of the tests include three following operations, i.e.:
I. a bleaching operation effected exactly under the same conditions
for each of three samples of hair;
Ii. a hair-setting operation for each of the three hair samples
bleached in accordance with operation I wherein
1. Hair sample (a) was set using a composition containing, as a
reducing agent, dodecyl gallate,
2. Hair sample (b) was set using a composition exactly the same as
in (1) except that it contained, as the reducing agent, pyruvic
acid,
3. Hair sample (3) was set using a composition exactly the same as
in (1) except that no reducing agent was employed, and
Iii. a hair dyeing operation, effected exactly in the same manner
for each of the three hair samples (a), (b) and (c) each of which
had previously been subjected to operations I and II.
Specifically each of the tests were conducted as follows:
I. Hair bleaching operation:
Three samples of natural grey hair, each weighing about 0.5 g were
each bleached with 3 ml of the following hair bleaching
composition:
Sodium persulfate 90 g H.sub.2 O.sub.2 (20 volumes) 300 ml
Ethylenediamine tetra acetic acid 0.6 g Ammonia 30 ml
Each sample of hair was left in contact with the bleaching
composition for 45 minutes. Thereafter, without neutralizing the
H.sub.2 O.sub.2 each sample was abundantly rinsed with water and
dried.
II. Hair setting operation:
The hair setting operation for (a), (b) and (c) hair samples is
carried out utilizing the following hair-setting lotions:
For hair sample (a): Solution (a): Polyvinyl pyrrolidone - K30 1.5
g Dodecyl gallate (M/1000) 0.34 g Ethyl alcohol (96.degree.) 40 g
Triethanolamine, q.s.p. pH 7 Water, q.s.p. 100 g
For Hair sample (b): Solution (b): Polyvinyl pyrrolidone - K30 1.5
g Pyruvic acid (M/1000) 0.09 g Ethyl alcohol (96.degree.) 40 g
Triethanol amine, q.s.p. pH 7 Water, q.s.p. 100 g For Hair sample
(c): Solution (c): Polyvinyl pyrrolidone - K30 1.5 g Ethyl alcohol
(96.degree.) 40 g Triethanolamine, q.s.p. pH 7 Water, q.s.p. 100
g
Each of the non-neutralized bleached hair samples described above
is immersed in 10 ml of its respective hair-setting lotion.
Essentially equal molar concentrations of dodecyl gallate and
pyruvic acid are employed so as to provide a true comparison. The
time of contact of each sample with its respective hair setting
lotion was 20 minutes. Thereafter each hair sample was rinsed and
dried.
III. Dyeing operation:
A hair dye composition was prepared by admixing the following
components:
1-diamino-2-nitro-4-aminoethylamino benzene hydrobromide 0.1 g
Ammonium lauryl sulfate 20 g Triethanolamine, q.s.p. pH 8.5 Water,
q.s.p. 100 g
Each of the three hair samples (a), (b) and (c) previously treated
with its aforesaid respective hair-setting lotion was then dyed
with 2 ml of the above hair dye composition, the time of contact of
the hair dye composition for each hair sample being 40 minutes.
This hair dyeing operation was carried out, in each instance, at a
temperature of 37.degree.C.
Each dyed hair sample was then rinsed, shampooed, rinsed again and
dried under the same conditions. The following results were
observed. The colorations achieved were compared using the
Nickerson formula and the Munsell standards as indicated in the
article by Dorothy Nickerson, in the Journal of the Optical
Society, American, Vol. 39, 1944, pp. 550 to 570 wherein a
coloration is defined by the formula:
Coloration = H V/C (shade) clarity/purity
and for each of the respective hair samples (a), (b) and (c) the
coloration is as follows:
H V/C (a) with dodecyl gallate 7.5 R 6.5/4.5 (b) with pyruvic acid
8.75 R 6.75/4.5 (c) no reducing agent 9.5R 6.75/4.5
wherein R, in each instance, indicates red.
The variation in the shade obtained, on the one hand between
samples (a) and (c) and, on the other hand between samples (b) and
(c) is obtained by applying the Nickerson formula:
dE = (0.4 C.sub.o dH) = (6 dV) + (3 dC)
wherein dE = the variation in shade, and C.sub.o is the purity of
the shade taken as the basis and which is, in each instance, 4.5.
The following comparative results were obtained:
1. Between samples (a) and (c)
dE = [0.4 .times. 4.5 .times. (9.5 - 7.5)]+[6 .times.
(6.75-6.5)]+[3 .times. 4.5 - 4.5)] = 5.1
2. between samples (b) and (c)
dE = [0.4 .times. 4.5 .times. (9.5 - 8.75)]+[6 .times. (6.75 -
6.75)]+[3 .times. (4.5 - 4.5)] = 1.35
It can be seen from the above results that sample (a) has been
strikingly improved over that of sample (b) when each is compared
to the control sample (c), none of the hair samples prior to the
dyeing operation having been treated so as to neutralize the
residual H.sub.2 O.sub.2 with which each sample was contacted
during the bleaching operation. From a comparison of the values
obtained, i.e. 5.1 vs 1.35, it can be seen that the use of dodecyl
gallate as a reducing agent in the hair-setting composition of the
present invention is unexpectedly far superior to that using the
pyruvic acid of the prior art.
* * * * *