U.S. patent number 3,821,827 [Application Number 05/283,711] was granted by the patent office on 1974-07-02 for stitchdown footwear and method of manufacture.
Invention is credited to Martin S. Nadler.
United States Patent |
3,821,827 |
Nadler |
July 2, 1974 |
STITCHDOWN FOOTWEAR AND METHOD OF MANUFACTURE
Abstract
A stitchdown shoe and a method of manufacturing a stitchdown
shoe is described. The footwear upper is first prefitted so that it
is coextensive with the sole or midsole to which the upper is being
attached. The outwardly turned bottom portion of the prefitted
upper is cemented to the sole or midsole and then stitched to the
sole or midsole using a simple stitching machine.
Inventors: |
Nadler; Martin S. (Paramus,
NJ) |
Family
ID: |
23087223 |
Appl.
No.: |
05/283,711 |
Filed: |
August 25, 1972 |
Current U.S.
Class: |
12/142C |
Current CPC
Class: |
A43B
15/00 (20130101) |
Current International
Class: |
A43B
15/00 (20060101); A43d 009/00 () |
Field of
Search: |
;36/16
;12/54.1,146R,142R,142C,146C |
References Cited
[Referenced By]
U.S. Patent Documents
Primary Examiner: Lawson; Patrick D.
Attorney, Agent or Firm: Darby & Darby
Claims
What is claimed is:
1. A method of manufacturing non-lasted stitchdown footwear
comprising the steps of:
prefitting a footwear upper to the sole or midsole of the footwear
so that the end edge of a portion of the outermost periphery of the
upper which is flattened against the sole or midsole is coextensive
with the sole or midsole including the steps of precutting the
footwear upper so that the end of a portion of the outermost
periphery of the upper which is flattened against the sole or
midsole is coextensive with the sole or midsole and forming a toe
pocket in the footwear upper;
bonding the flattened peripheral portion of the footwear upper to
the sole or midsole including the steps of applying a bonding agent
to the underside of the upper flattened portion and to the top side
of the sole or midsole outermost peripheral portion, matching
together the flattened or flange portion of the upper and the
midsole or sole outermost peripheral portion and applying pressure
to the matched together portions; and
stitching the flattened peripheral portion of the footwear upper to
the sole or midsole with a stitching machine.
2. The method recited in claim 1, further comprising, before the
step of prefitting the footwear upper to the sole or midsole, the
step of stitching a sheath about the outermost periphery of the
footwear upper.
3. The method recited in claim 2, the step of bonding the flattened
portion of the upper to the sole or midsole comprising the steps
of:
applying a bonding agent to the underside of the sheathed upper
flattened portion and to the top side of the sole or midsole
outermost peripheral portion;
matching together the sheathed flattened or flange portion of the
upper and the midsole or sole outermost peripheral portion and
applying pressure to the matched together portions.
4. The method recited in claim 1, the pressure applied to the
matched together portions being approximately 70 pounds.
Description
This invention relates generally to an article of footwear commonly
known as a stitchdown shoe and to a method of manufacturing a
stitchdown shoe.
A stitchdown shoe is one in which the bottom portion of the
footwear upper is turned outwardly and the outwardly turned portion
is stitched directly to the midsole of the shoe. The outwardly
turned bottom portion forms a flange about the periphery of the
upper which is approximately a quarter of an inch wide. A heavy
stitch is sewn about the entire flange connecting the upper to the
midsole.
Heretofore, the method of manufacturing a stitchdown shoe required
that a shoemaker's last be maintained within the shoe during the
entire manufacturing operation. Footwear constructed in this manner
is commonly referred to as lasted footwear. The first step in
manufacturing these lasted stitchdown shoes is to attach a midsole
to the last. This is usually accomplished by nailing or stapling
the midsole to the last in such a way that the midsole may be
removed from the last after the manufacturing operation is
completed. The untrimmed footwear upper is then placed over the
last. In the next step, the footwear upper is attached to the
midsole. This is usually accomplished by a method commonly referred
to as thread-lasting. In thread-lasting, a thread laster machine
stitches the outwardly turned bottom portion of the upper to the
midsole as the machine presses the upright portion of the upper
against the last. After the thread-lasting operation the outwardly
turned bottom portion of the upper must be trimmed to cut away the
excess which is not attached to the midsole. The final step in
constructing a lasted stitchdown shoe is to either cement the outer
sole to the midsole, or goodyear stitch through all three members:
upper, midsole and outsole.
The lasted shoe method of constructing the stitchdown shoe
described above has many disadvantages. One disadvantage is that
the footwear must remain on the last during the entire
manufacturing operation. This means that production runs involving
lasted stitchdown shoes cannot begin until the prior production run
is completed. Since this is non-economical, it is necessary to have
available enough lasts so that a number of production runs can be
simultaneously under way. The additional number of lasts required
and the heavy duty thread laster machines necessary to perform the
thread-lasting operations make the lasted shoe method of producing
stitchdown shoes expensive. Another disadvantage of the last shoe
method is that it requires many skilled operations, especially in
the operation of the thread laster.
A disadvantage inherent in stitchdown shoes constructed according
to the lasted method of construction is that the joint between the
footwear midsole and the outwardly turned bottom portion of the
upper is not water resistant because of the gaps between the
stitches.
It is accordingly an object of the present invention to provide an
improved method of constructing a stitchdown shoe which eliminates
the necessity of using a thread laster machine.
It is a further object of this invention to provide a method of
manufacturing a stitchdown shoe which does not require that the
shoe be manufactured entirely on a last.
It is a further object of this invention to provide a method of
manufacturing a stitchdown shoe which requires few skilled
operations and relatively simple and inexpensive machinery.
It is a further object of this invention to provide an improved
stitchdown shoe with a strengthened, water resistant joint between
the upper and the midsole or sole.
It is a further object of this invention to provide an improved
stitchdown shoe in which the upper is joined directly to the
midsole, the sole or both the midsole and sole.
Briefly, the method of manufacturing a stitchdown shoe according to
this invention includes the following steps. First, the footwear
upper is prefitted. That is, the component parts of the upper are
sewn together and precut so that the end edge of the outwardly
turned bottom portion of the upper is approximately coextensive
with the peripheral end edge of the sole or midsole to which the
upper is to be joined. In the lasted shoe method of constructing a
stitchdown shoe discussed above, the uppers are not prefitted and
the excess or unused portion of the upper extending beyond the
midsole must be trimmed off after the thread-lasting operation.
In the next step, the toe portion of the upper is gathered to form
a pocket for the wearer's toe. This can be accomplished by any of
the known methods of forming a toe pocket. One way would be to
place a heat-sensitive stiffener in the toe portion of the upper
and place the upper in a heated, toe forming mold. A second method
of gathering the toe portion of the upper is to use a crimping cord
to form a pocket as described in U.S. Pat. Nos. 2,774,087,
2,946,069 and 2,999,323, all of which are assigned to Jo-An Shoe
Manufacturing Co., Inc.
The next step in practicing the method of this invention is to
apply cement to the underside of the outwardly turned bottom
portion or flange portion of the upper and to the peripheral edge
of the top surface or the midsole or sole. The flange portion of
the upper and the peripheral edge of the midsole or sole are then
matched together so that the flange portion of the upper and the
peripheral edge of the midsole or sole top surface are mated. The
mated portions of the upper and sole or midsole are then fed
between two counter-rotating wheels which feed the work and apply
pressure to bond the mated portions of the sole or midsole to the
upper. The flange portion of the upper is then stitched to the sole
or midsole using simple stitching techniques.
In another embodiment of this invention, a ribbed edge is formed
about the periphery of the stitchdown shoe. This is accomplished by
prestitching a sheath about the outwardly turned bottom portion of
the upper and cementing the bottom surface or the sheath to the top
side of the sole or midsole. The sheathed outwardly turned bottom
portion of the upper is then stitched to the sole or midsole as
described above.
The advantages of manufacturing a stitchdown shoe according to the
method of this invention are that it is not necessary to use
expensive thread-laster machines; it is a lower cost operation
because fewer skilled operations are required; and it is not
necessary to use shoemaker's lasts during the entire manufacturing
operation, except for a brief period of shaping, commonly known as
slip or force lasting.
These and other objects and features of this invention will be more
readily understood and appreciated by reference to the following
descriptions and drawings of which:
FIG. 1 is a perspective view of a stitchdown shoe made according to
the method of this invention;
FIG. 2 is an exploded perspective view of a stitchdown shoe made
according to the method of this invention illustrating an upper, a
midsole and a sole;
FIG. 3 is a cross-sectional view, taken across the width of the toe
portion of footwear made according to the method of this
invention;
FIG. 4 is a fragmentary, lengthwise cross-sectional view of the toe
portion of the footwear illustrated in FIG. 3;
FIG. 5 is a fragmentary, lengthwise cross-sectional view of the toe
portion of a second embodiment of footwear made according to the
method of this invention;
FIG. 6 is a fragmentary, lengthwise cross-sectional view, of the
toe portion of a third embodiment of footwear made according to the
method of this invention;
FIG. 7 is a fragmentary, lengthwise cross-sectional view, of the
toe portion of a fourth embodiment of footwear made according to
the method of this invention;
FIG. 8 is a fragmentary, lengthwise cross-sectional view of the toe
portion of a fifth embodiment of footwear made according to the
method of this invention; and
FIG. 9 is a fragmentary lengthwise cross-sectional view of the toe
portion of a sixth embodiment of footwear made according to the
method of this invention.
Stitchdown footwear manufactured according to the method of this
invention has superior structural strength in relation to lasted
stitchdown footwear because the upper is cemented and stitched to
the sole or midsole. Further, the joint between the upper and the
sole or midsole in stitchdown footwear manufactured according to
the method of this invention is water resistant since the joint is
cemented.
In prefitting the footwear upper, the various component parts of
the upper are first precut then sewn together so that the
peripheral edge 20 of the footwear upper is coextensive with the
peripheral edge 22 of the midsole or sole to which the upper is to
be joined. The sizes of the various precut components of the upper
vary, of course, for various sizes of footwear.
Referring now to FIG. 1, in which a stitchdown shoe is illustrated,
it should be noted that any style of upper may be used for the
footwear of this invention or in practicing the method of this
invention. The stitchdown shoe 10 is characterized by the footwear
upper 12 flaring outwardly at its bottom portion to form a
horizontal flange 14 about the entire periphery of the upper which
is stitched to the midsole 15 or sole 16 of the footwear by
stitches 18. The flange 14 of the upper extends inwardly from the
outer edge of the sole approximately one quarter of an inch.
Referring now to FIG. 2, there is illustrated the component parts
of a typical footwear construction including the upper 12, the
midsole 15 and the outer sole 16. The first step in practicing the
method of this invention is to prefit the footwear upper.
Before the upper can be joined to the midsole, it is necessary to
gather the toe portion of the upper and form a toe pocket. One of
the ways that this can be done involves applying a heat-sensitive
stiffener 24 to the toe portion of the upper. The upper is then
placed in a heat-mold having the desired configuration of the toe
portion. The mold applies heat to the stiffener which takes the
form of the mold and stiffens after the upper is removed from the
mold. This results in the formation of a toe pocket 26 in the
upper, as best illustrated in FIG. 4. Various shapes of toe pockets
can be formed depending on the particular style of footwear being
constructed.
Another method of forming a toe pocket is with the use of a
crimping cord (not shown) as described in U.S. Pat. Nos. 2,774,087,
2,946,069 and 2,999,323. As the crimping cord is sewn into the toe
portion of the upper, it gathers the upper and forms a toe pocket.
This method of forming a toe pocket is described in detail in the
patents mentioned above.
Either or both of the above mentioned methods of forming a toe
pocket in the upper may be used in the practice of this invention,
or any other suitable method of forming a toe pocket in a prefitted
upper.
The next step in practicing the method of this invention is to
attach the upper to the midsole or sole. In the example described
below, the upper is attached to the midsole. The step of attaching
the upper to the midsole is essentially a two part process -- the
first part involving cementing the upper to the midsole and the
second part involving stitching the upper to the midsole.
Thus, pressure-sensitive cement 28 is applied to the flange portion
of the upper about the entire periphery of the footwear and is
applied to the top side of the midsole about its entire periphery.
The cement is applied to both the upper and the midsole in a strip
approximately one-quarter of an inch wide. A conventional upper
cementer machine can be used to apply cement to the upper and a
conventional shoe cementer machine can be used to apply cement to
the midsole.
An operator must then manually align the peripheral edge of the
bottom portion of the upper with the peripheral edge of the top
side of the midsole so that the portion of the upper matches the
toe portion of the midsole and the heel portion of the upper
matches the heel portion of the midsole. The operator then feeds
the mated portions an the midsole to a pair of counter-rotating
wheels which apply pressure of approximately 70 pounds to bond the
flange of the upper to the top side of the midsole, as illustrated
in FIG. 3. At this point in the process described herein, the
midsole is attached to the upper.
The machine which bonds the flange of the upper to the top side of
the upper has been manufactured by Mutual Machine Company and has
been designated a Model C Long Arm/Closing Machine. The machine
performs three functions. It applies pressure to the upper and the
midsole to bond the cement joint; it continually feeds the work;
and it determines the width of the cemented flange of the upper.
The last-mentioned function is accomplished by an adjustable stop
positioned between the counter-rotating wheels. The stop determines
the degree to which the flange of the upper can be inserted between
the wheels. In feeding the work through the machine, the operator
keeps the midsole in contact with the stop so that the width of
upper flange is uniform about the entire shoe.
The next step in the practicing method of this invention is to
stitch together the flange portion of the upper and the midsole
which have already been cemented together. Because of precementing
which precedes the stitching operation, it is not necessary to use
a stitch laster machine nor a shoemaker's last to accomplish the
stitching operation. The stitches can be sewn on such commonly
available stitching machines as a Goodyear Stitcher Machine, a
Union Lockstitch Machine, a Littleway Lockstitch machine. It is
also possible to use chain stitching machines such as a Puritan
Chain Stitcher Machine and a McKay Chain Stitcher Machine when
sewing the flange of the upper to the midsole. Referring now to
FIG. 4, a single stitch 18 is shown connecting the flange 14 of the
upper to the midsole 15. As illustrated in FIG. 1, these stitches
extend about the entire periphery of the footwear.
When the upper is cemented and stitched to the midsole, the outer
sole is commonly the midsole, to the midsole in a conventional
fashion. A final finishing step, which is now necessary in
practicing the method of this invention, is to force last the
footwear. In this operation a shoemaker's last is forced into the
footwear and then removed. The purpose of force lasting is merely
to shape the footwear. It should be noted that this force lasting
operation is the first time during the production of the stitchdown
footwear described herein that a last is used.
Referring now to FIG. 5, the stitchdown shoe described herein may
be formed with a ribbed flange 30 rather than the straight flange
15 described above. This is accomplished by prestitching a sheath
32 about the flange portion of the upper prior to the cementing and
stitching operations. Since the flange of the upper is
approximately one-quarter of an inch wide, the sheath should be
approximately one-half an inch wide so that it can be doubled over
the flange portion of the upper, as illustrated in FIG. 5. The
sheath is then sewn in place using a conventional sewing machine.
In the cementing step, cement is applied to the bottom side of the
sheath rather than to the bottom side of the flange portion of the
upper. The bottom side of the sheath is then bonded to the midsole
and stitched, as described above.
Referring now to FIG. 6, a third embodiment of footwear constructed
according to the method of this invention is illustrated. In this
embodiment, the flange portion 14 of the upper is cemented and
stitched directly to the sole 16 in the same manner described above
with respect to the midsole 15.
Referring now to FIG. 7, a fourth embodiment of footwear
constructed according to the method of this invention is
illustrated. In this embodiment, as in the second embodiment
illustrated in FIG. 5, a sheath 32 is prestitched about the flange
14 of the upper so as to form a rib 30. However here, the sheathed
flange portion of the upper is attached directly to the sole 16 in
the same manner described above with respect to the midsole 15.
Referring now to FIG. 8, a fifth embodiment of footwear constructed
according to the method of this invention is illustrated. In this
embodiment, before or after the flange portion of the upper is
cemented to the midsole, as described with respect to the first
embodiment, the outer sole 16 is cemented to the midsole 15. In the
stitching operation, the flange of the upper is sewn to the outer
sole through the midsole in the same manner described above with
respect to the first embodiment.
Referring now to FIG. 9, a sixth embodiment of footwear constructed
according to the method of this invention is illustrated. In this
embodiment before or after the sheathed flange portion of the upper
is cemented to the midsole, the outer sole is cemented to the
midsole. In the stitching operation the sheathed flange of the
upper is sewn to the outer sole through the midsole in the same
manner described above with respect to the first embodiment.
While the principles of the invention have now been made clear in
the illustrated embodiments, it will be immediately obvious to
those skilled in the art that many modifications may be made in the
structure, arrangement and proportions of the elements, materials,
and components used in the practice of the invention, without
departing from the invention. The appended claims are, therefore,
intended to cover and embrace any such modifications, within the
limits only of the true spirit and scope of the invention.
With respect to FIGS. 5, 7 and 9, an alternative to the sheathing
operation described is to fold and stitch the outermost portion of
the outwardly turned bottom portion of the upper beneath itself on
a sewing machine with a commonly used folding attachment. This then
creates the same rounded, finished edge as accomplished by
sheathing or binding.
* * * * *