U.S. patent number 3,796,068 [Application Number 05/132,586] was granted by the patent office on 1974-03-12 for knitting method.
This patent grant is currently assigned to Courtaulds Limited. Invention is credited to Max William Betts, Frank Robinson.
United States Patent |
3,796,068 |
Betts , et al. |
March 12, 1974 |
**Please see images for:
( Certificate of Correction ) ** |
KNITTING METHOD
Abstract
A method of knitting a sleeved garment in which sleeve tubes and
a body tube are knitted and joined to one another on the knitting
machine, said joining being brought about by means of sleeve
extensions knitted integrally with the sleeve and during the
knitting of which needles are taken out of action whilst still
holding their loops and are subsequently reintroduced to cause
portions of wales of the sleeve extensions to lie at an angle to
other portions of those extensions.
Inventors: |
Betts; Max William (Coventry,
EN), Robinson; Frank (Borrowash, EN) |
Assignee: |
Courtaulds Limited (London,
EN)
|
Family
ID: |
22454715 |
Appl.
No.: |
05/132,586 |
Filed: |
April 8, 1971 |
Current U.S.
Class: |
66/176;
66/189 |
Current CPC
Class: |
A41D
27/10 (20130101); D04B 1/246 (20130101); D04B
15/12 (20130101); D04B 1/108 (20130101); D04B
7/32 (20130101); D10B 2403/0333 (20130101) |
Current International
Class: |
A41D
27/00 (20060101); A41D 27/10 (20060101); D04B
7/00 (20060101); A41b 009/06 () |
Field of
Search: |
;66/176,177,189 |
References Cited
[Referenced By]
U.S. Patent Documents
|
|
|
3474643 |
October 1969 |
Robinson et al. |
|
Foreign Patent Documents
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
1,563,800 |
|
Mar 1969 |
|
FR |
|
820,869 |
|
Sep 1959 |
|
GB |
|
Primary Examiner: Feldbaum; Ronald
Attorney, Agent or Firm: Davis, Hoxie, Faithfull &
Hapgood
Claims
What is claimed is:
1. A method of knitting an integral seamless knitted sleeved
garment on a machine having at least two opposed needle beds, said
method comprising the steps in either order of:
knitting three tubes constituting respectively two sleeves and a
body for the garment side-by-side on said opposed needle beds,
knitting U-shaped courses at the shoulder ends of each of said
sleeve tubes, said U-shaped courses opening toward said body tube,
to provide extensions of said sleeve tubes at the shoulder ends
thereof, and during the knitting of said sleeve extensions taking
out of action needles holding loops of the extensions whilst
retaining those loops on the needles and subsequently
re-introducing those needles into knitting action to cause portions
of knitted wales of the extensions to lie at an angle to one
another, and
knitting flat front and rear panels opposite one another on said
opposed needle beds to provide extensions of said body tube at the
upper end thereof, the ends of the courses of said front and rear
panels being joined, on the knitting machine, to said sleeve
extensions.
2. The method of claim 1 wherein, during knitting of the extensions
of the sleeve tubes, a number of needles are taken out of action
sequentially and are brought back into action simultaneously.
3. The method of claim 1 wherein, during knitting of the extensions
of the sleeve tubes, a number of needles are taken out of action
simultaneously and are reintroduced sequentially.
4. The method of claim 1 wherein the procedure of taking needles
out of action and re-introducing those needles is repeated at least
twice during the knitting of each sleeve extension.
5. The method of claim 4 wherein some of the needles taken out of
action during knitting of the sleeve extensions are reintroduced
and are taken out of action again and once more reintroduced to
knitting action before the remaining portion of the needles
originally made inactive is reintroduced to knitting action.
6. The method of claim 1 wherein a first step comprises the
knitting of a tubular garment body, two tubular sleeves and an
extension for each sleeve and a second step comprises joining said
sleeve extensions to the body by knitting an extension of the body,
said body extension comprising two pieces of flat fabric, one at
the front and one at the rear of the body, loops at the ends of
courses of these body extensions being knitted on needles each of
which already carries, because of stitch transfer, a body extension
loop of a previous course and a sleeve extension loop.
7. The method of claim 1 comprising the following steps in the
order set out:
knitting of two tubular sleeves,
knitting of a sleeve extension for each sleeve,
knitting of a body extension comprising two pieces of flat fabric,
said body extension being knitted integrally with said sleeve
extensions, and knitting of a tubular body in continuation of said
body extension.
8. The method of claim 1 comprising the following steps in the
order set out:
knitting of a tubular body,
knitting of a body extension comprising two pieces of flat
fabric,
knitting of two sleeve extensions integrally with said body
extension, and
knitting of two tubular sleeves.
9. The method of claim 1 wherein end loops of said U-shaped courses
are joined to end loops of wales of said body.
10. The method of knitting a sleeved garment on a knitting machine
having at least two opposed main needle beds, two sets of opposed
secondary needle beds longitudinally movable with respect to said
main needle beds, and a linking device associated with each of said
main beds for passing a linking thread through loops on any needle
of the associated main bed, said method comprising the steps
of:
knitting a body tube for the garment on said main needle beds,
knitting a sleeve tube for the garment on each of said two sets of
secondary needle beds,
knitting U-shaped courses on said secondary needle beds at the
shoulder end of each of said sleeve tubes, said U-shaped courses
opening toward said body tube, to provide extensions of said sleeve
tubes at the shoulder ends thereof, and during the knitting of said
sleeve extensions taking out of action needles holding loops of the
extensions whilst retaining those loops on the needles and
subsequently re-introducing those needles into knitting action to
cause portions of knitted wales of the extensions to lie at an
angle to one another, and
knitting flat front and rear panels opposite one another on said
main needle beds to provide extensions of said body tube at the
upper end thereof, the ends of the courses of said front and rear
panels being joined, on the knitting machine, to said sleeve
extensions by a linking procedure in which the sleeve extensions on
said secondary beds are moved along relative to the main beds of
the knitting machine, loops of said sleeve extensions are placed on
the same needles of said main beds as loops of said body extensions
and a linking thread is passed through pairs of loops on needles of
said main beds.
Description
This invention relates to a method of knitting sleeved garments in
such a way that the garments come from the knitting machine with
the sleeves attached to the body and require only a small amount of
making up to produce the finished garment.
According to one aspect of the invention a method of knitting a
sleeved garment comprises knitting three tubes constituting two
sleeves and a body for the garment, knitting portions of fabric
constituting extensions of the sleeve tubes either before or after
knitting the sleeve tubes and, during the knitting of the
extensions, taking out of action needles holding loops of the
extensions (whilst retaining those loops on the needles) and
subsequently re-introducing these needles to knitting action to
cause portions of wales of the extensions to lie at an angle to one
another, and joining the sleeve extensions, on the knitting
machine, to the body tube or an extension thereof.
The method can be carried out on a flat V-bed knitting machine.
According to a further aspect of the invention a knitted, sleeved
garment comprises a knitted body tube and two knitted sleeve tubes
each sleeve tube having a knitted extension formed in continuation
thereof and joined to the body or an extension thereof, there being
wales in each sleeve extension which have portions lying at an
angle to one another in the finished garment.
The machine used for carrying out the invention need a take down
mechanism, or a mechanism serving in place of or as an adjunct to a
take down mechanism, which is capable of moving knitted loops away
from the needles in such a way that knitting can be carried on over
a considerable number of courses on some needles of the machine
whilst adjacent needles holding loops of the fabric are maintained
out of action. For example, a machine having web-holding sinkers
can be used, or a flat V-bed knitting machine having hold-down
elements as described in the specification of our German OLS No.
1,956,190 can be used.
Some embodiments of the method are advantageously carried out on
machines having two opposed main needle beds and also having
further needle beds which are movable with respect to the main
needle beds.
In order to cause portions of wales of sleeve extensions to lie at
an angle to one another, a number of needles may be taken out of
action simultaneously and brought back into action sequentially or
a number of needles may be taken out of action sequentially and
brought back into action simultaneously. Needles may also be taken
out of action sequentially and re-introduced sequentially.
The process of taking needles out of action and re-introducing
these needles to cause portions of wales of the sleeve extensions
to lie at an angle to one another may be repeated two or more times
in the knitting of a sleeve extension. Some of the needles taken
out of action may be re-introduced and then taken out of action
again and once more re-introduced before the remaining portion of
the original number of needles is re-introduced.
The loops carried on the needles taken out of action need not
extend across the whole of each sleeve extension. Thus, knitting
can be continuous on some of the needles holding loops of the
extension.
The sleeve extensions may be joined to the body or body extensions
in a number of ways. For example a linking procedure may be used
employing a linking attachment on the knitting machine. A chain
joining procedure can also be used in which loops of one or two
portions to be joined are pulled through loops of the other part
held on needles of the machine.
A knitting procedure which can be used to join the sleeve
extensions to the body is to knit the garment in a continuous
fashion from cuffs to waist or vice versa, the sleeve tubes then
being knitted first and the body tube subsequently or vice
versa.
The invention will be further described by way of example with
reference to the accompanying drawings in which:
FIGS. 1 to 3 are diagrams each showing a half of a different
garment knitted by the method of the invention,
FIGS. 4a to 4d are diagrams illustrating four stages in the
knitting of the garment of FIG. 3,
FIGS. 5 to 7 are also diagrams showing a half of a different
garment knitted by the method of the invention,
FIG. 8 is a diagram showing a further garment knitted by the method
of the invention,
FIG. 9 is a diagram showing half of a still further garment knitted
by the method of the invention,
FIG. 10 is a cross-section on the line 10--10 of FIG. 11,
FIG. 11 is a plan of a part of a flat V-bed knitting machine for
knitting garments according to the invention,
FIG. 12 is a perspective view illustrating part of a linking
mechanism mounted on a flat V-bed knitting machine, and
FIG. 13 comprises a series of diagrams illustrating the joining of
garment sleeves to a body by a linking procedure.
Where in the drawings a Figure shows half a garment, the half of
the garment not shown is identical with that shown.
The garments shown in the drawings may be knitted on flat V-bed
knitting machines having hold-down elements as described in the
specification of our German OLS No. 1,956,190. A pair of such
hold-down elements is carried on a single member which is so
mounted that it can be moved to bring the two hold-down elements
alternately into an operative position in which the operative
element extends beneath active needles of the opposed arrays of
latch needles of the knitting machine, the said member being
arranged to carry the hold-down elements along the arrays of
needles in synchronism with the actuation of the needles and the
operative hold-down element being arranged to hold down the
knitting so that opened latches move up through the loops on the
needles as the needles rise during knitting and are closed by the
loops as the needles descend.
The garments of FIGS. 1 and 2 are advantageously knitted on a flat
V-bed knitting machine having, in addition to the main needle beds,
two pairs of secondary beds containing arrays of needles, the
secondary beds being movable longitudinally of the main needle beds
of the machine. Each pair of secondary beds contains sufficient
needles to hold all the loops of the sleeve of the garment to be
knitted on the machine at its widest point.
A flat V-bed knitting machine having movable secondary beds is
illustrated in FIGS. 10 and 11 of the accompanying drawings. For
the sake of simplicity only a part of the main beds of the machine
is shown and the number of needles shown in the secondary beds is
illustrative only and would normally be greater in an actual
machine. The main beds 1 of the machine have tricks containing
needles 2 held in place by needle bands 2a. Pairs of opposed
secondary beds 3 and 4 are movable longitudinally of the main beds
by rotation of a lead screw 5 (only one of which is shown)
extending through internally screw-threaded tubes 6 in the beds 3
and 4. The parts of the lead screws engaging beds 3 are
screw-threaded in the opposite sense from the parts engaging beds 4
so that the beds 3 and 4 are moved in opposite directions by
rotation of the lead screws. Needles 7 held in place by needle
bands 7a are located in tricks of the beds 3 and 4.
The needles 2 and 7 of the main and secondary beds are shown
pulling loops 8 and it can be seen in FIG. 10 that the needles 7 of
the secondary beds cooperate with the knock over bits 9 of the main
beds 1 in performing their knitting action.
For the sake of simplicity in the drawing the needles 7 in the
secondary beds are shown as simple needles without transfer
capability but in the machine which is preferred for knitting the
garments of FIGS. 1 and 2 the needles of the secondary beds are
capable of transferring loops to needles of an opposing bed. In
such a machine, the secondary beds may be equipped with the needles
described in British Pat. Specification No. 1,123,630.
A flat V-bed knitting machine having auxiliary needle beds movable
relative to the main needle beds is described in U.S. Pat
Specification No. 3,167,938 and in British Pat. Specification No.
991,943. Further description of the machine is to be found in the
Dubied Knitting Manual published in 1967 by Edouard Dubied &
Cie. S.A. of Neuchatel, Switzerland. Mechanisms corresponding to
those used in the machine of U.S. Pat. Specification No. 3,167,938
for controlling needle beds and needles can also be used as
appropriate in a machine for carrying out the present method.
The garments of FIGS. 1 and 2 can also be knitted on a V-bed
knitting machine having arrays of transfer elements capable of
picking up all the loops of a garment sleeve from needles of the
machine, moving them relative to the needle beds and replacing them
on different needles of the main beds. Such transfer elements are
described for example in British Pat. Specifications Nos. 910,885
and 448,795.
A flat V-bed knitting machine having transfer elements movable
relative to the needle beds of the machine is described in British
Pat. Specification No. 934,883. This machine would require
modification to increase the number of transfer elements in order
to render it capable of carrying out the present method.
The garment of FIG. 8 can be knitted on a V-bed knitting machine
having only a single pair of secondary beds containing sufficient
needles so that all the loops of the sleeve of a garment at the
widest point of the sleeve can be held on needles of the secondary
beds. The secondary beds are movable longitudinally of the main
beds of the machine.
The knitting of the garment of FIG. 1 will now be described using a
knitting machine having two pairs of movable secondary beds
containing transfer needles. The garment is made by knitting a tube
10 constituting the body of a garment, a tube 11 constituting a
sleeve of the garment and a further tube identical with the tube 11
but located on the opposite side of the body tube 10. The three
tubes are knitted in a conventional manner on opposed beds of the
machine, the body tube being knitted on the main beds of the
machine and the sleeve tubes on separate pairs of opposed secondary
beds of the machine.
During knitting of the sleeve 11 of the garment, the sleeves are
widened by needle introduction and when the sleeves have been
completed to the line 12 and the body has been knitted to the line
13, knitting of the sleeve extension indicated at 14 is commenced.
The sleeve extensions 14 are formed by knitting U-shaped courses,
the open end of each U facing inwardly towards the body tube.
During the knitting of the sleeve extensions needles are taken out
of action progressively on each of the secondary beds from the
inner edge of the sleeve, which is adjacent the body, towards the
outer edge 16 of the sleeve extension. Thus the wales of the
extension become longer in the direction from the armpit 19 to the
outer edge 16 and portions of the wales of the extension on
opposite sides of the line 17 lie at an angle to one another. This
is a consequence of progressive holding up and progressive
re-introduction of needles whilst retaining loops on them and is a
feature of all the sleeve extensions described in this
specification. The join along the line 17 is sometimes called a
suture join. When the line of loops 17 is held on the needles, the
knitting process is carried out in such a way as to bring
successive needles back into action in the direction from the outer
edge 16 of the extension towards the inner edge until all the
needles are again knitting. When the loops along the line 18 are
held on the needles, knitting is ceased on the secondary beds and
the two pairs of secondary beds are moved inwardly towards the body
until the needles of the secondary bed holding the innermost loops
of the sleeve are opposite the needles of the main beds holding the
outermost loops of the body tube. The needles are then operated to
transfer the innermost sleeve loops to the needles holding the
outermost body loops so that needles at the armpit 19 hold sleeve
loops as well as body loops. The first course of the body extension
15 is then knitted, yarn being supplied by means of two separate
yarn carriers to each of the opposite main beds of the machine so
that the body extension is formed as two pieces of plain fabric.
Each end loop of these pieces of plain fabric is pulled through the
doubled sleeve and body loops on the outermost body needles, thus
joining each sleeve to the body. The sleeves are then moved
inwardly again and the loops which are not innermost on the
secondary beds are transferred to the needles holding the outermost
body loops. Again a course of the body extension is knitted and
again the doubled sleeve and body loops are joined together by
pulling one loop through the doubled loops. That is a loop at the
end of each course of the body extension is knitted on a needle
already carrying a body loop and a sleeve extension loop. The
secondary beds are again moved in, further sleeve loops are
transferred to needles holding body loops, further body extension
courses are knitted and so on producing a sleeve body join along
the line 18.
When the neck of the garment is reached, a course of rib may be
knitted to join the front and rear body extension pieces together.
The loops are then pressed off the needles, and if trimmings have
been knitted at the cuffs and waist it is only necessary to cut out
and finish the neck of the garment to produce a finished
garment.
The garment shown in FIG. 2 is knitted in a similar way to the
garment of FIG. 1 except that in taking needles out of action and
re-introducing them during knitting of the sleeve extensions, the
number of needles taken out of action in each bed is such that some
needles at the outer edge of the group of needles on that bed
holding loops are never out of action. In addition, some needles at
the inner edge of the group of needles on each bed holding loops
are taken out of action en bloc before the needles in the central
portion of the group are taken out of action and re-introduced
sequentially. The inner needles are then re-introduced en bloc. The
procedure produces a different shape of sleeve extension from the
procedure described with reference to FIG. 1.
The knitting of the garment shown in FIG. 3 is carried out on a
flat V-bed knitting machine without secondary beds and without
transfer needles but having hold down elements as described in our
British Pat. application No. 52942/68. Knitting is commenced at the
cuffs (not shown) of sleeves 22. The sleeves are widened by needle
introduction until the line 23 is reached. Needles holding loops of
wales 25 at the inner edge of each sleeve are then taken out of
action en bloc and knitting of sleeve extensions 31 is commenced
using U-shaped courses. (It should be noted that the inner edges of
the sleeves are located remote from one another on the machine and
are thus outermost on the machine). Needles are taken out of action
progressively over a central region of each side of the sleeve
extension commencing near the inner edge of the sleeve extension
and progressing outwardly as shown in FIG. 3. Needles holding loops
of wales 24 at the outer edge of each sleeve are arranged to be
continuously in action. As is apparent from FIGS. 4a to 4d these
needles are innermost on the machine that is they are adjacent the
needles holding corresponding loops of the other sleeve extension.
When the loops along the line 26 in the sleeve extension are on the
needles of the machine, progressive needle re-introduction is
commenced starting at the active needles holding loops near the
outer edge of the sleeve. When all the needles have once more been
brought back into action, the line of loops 27 is on the needles of
the machine and needles are again taken out of action progressively
in the direction towards the outer edge of the extension until at
the line 32 knitting of the sleeves and sleeve extensions of the
garment has been completed. Knitting of the body tube extension 33
is now commenced, the needles holding loops of the wales 25 being
again brought back into action en bloc. The stages of knitting this
garment which have been described so far are illustrated in FIGS.
4a and 4b. FIG. 4a shows diagrammatically the line of the needle
beds 30 of a V-bed knitting machine without secondary beds on which
the garment is knitted. The two sleeves 22 are shown moving
downwardly away from the beds 30 as they are knitted. It should be
noted that the edge of each sleeve tube which will be the outer
edge in the finished garment is the inner edge during knitting of
the sleeve tubes and is therefore located nearer to the
corresponding edge of the other sleeve tube than the inner edge of
the sleeve. FIG. 4b shows the position when knitting of the sleeve
extensions 31 has been completed and the loops along the line 32
are held on needles of the beds 30, the innermost loops A being
those which, in the finished garment, will be located adjacent the
upper edge of the body extension 33. The loops at the points B on
the beds will, in the finished garment, be located in the underarm
position in the garment.
The body extension 33 is knitted as two pieces of flat fabric, yarn
being supplied by means of a separate yarn carrier to needles of
each of the opposite beds of the machine. Knitting is commenced at
the neck of the garment by a single course of rib knitting the end
loops of the course being pulled through the sleeve loops at the
points A. As the extension 33 is knitted the courses are made
successively longer and the end loops of each course are knitted
through the innermost sleeve loops which remain on the beds. The
sleeve loops are successively knitted off the beds until the
position shown in FIG. 4c is reached where the last sleeve loops
have left the needles and the knitting of the tube 34 constituting
the body of the garment is commenced.
Knitting of the body tube 34 is illustrated in FIG. 4d and is
carried out by tubular knitting on the two opposed beds of the
machine.
After knitting the lower edge of the body, a suitable trimming can
be knitted on the waist and following this a few courses of waste
yarn before the garment is pressed off the needles of the machine
and any necessary finishing at waist and neck is carried out.
The garment of FIG. 3 can also be knitted commencing at the waist
of the body, completing the body tube and the body extension and
then knitting the sleeve extensions before knitting the sleeves in
the direction towards the cuffs. Needles may be taken out of action
and re-introduced in the manner described above in connection with
knitting this garment in the opposite direction.
The garment of FIG. 5 is knitted in a similar way to the garment of
FIG. 3 excpet that the suture lines produced by the taking out and
re-introduction of needles extend from the armpit to the outer edge
of the garment. That is, the sleeve tubes 37 are knitted first,
followed by the sleeve extension 38 which is knitted using U-shaped
courses. Suture lines 39 and 40 extend from the armpit to the outer
edge of the extension. When the loops along the lines 41 are held
on the needles of the opposed beds of the machine, knitting of the
body extension 42 comprising flat panels joining the sleeve
extensions is commenced. When the body extension 42 has been
knitted the garment is completed by knitting the body tube 43. The
garment is finished in the same way as the garment of FIG. 3.
The garments of FIGS. 6 and 7 are also knitted in a similar way to
the garment of FIG. 3 by knitting the sleeve tubes first, starting
at the cuffs and subsequently knitting the body tube in the
direction towards the waist. However, in the garment of FIG. 6, the
sleeve extensions are formed by knitting a number of beret segments
made by taking needles out of action progressively in the direction
from the underarm edge of the sleeve towards the outer edge and
re-introducing the needles en bloc prior to taking them out of
action progressively once more and re-introducing them again en
bloc and so on. Sleeve extension 46 of the garment of FIG. 6 is
shown as being formed in this way.
The sleeve extension 47 of the garment of FIG. 7 is formed in a
similar way of a number of beret segments but the segments extend
only over the central region of each side of the sleeve, knitting
being continuous on the wales in the region near the outer edge of
the sleeve and near the underarm position.
The garments of FIGS. 3 to 7 can also be knitted in the direction
starting at the waist of the body and knitting to the top of the
body before knitting the sleeve extensions of the sleeves in the
direction towards the cuffs.
Instead of producing beret segments in the sleeve extensions by
taking needles out of action progressively and re-introducing them
en bloc, one can take needles out of action en bloc and
re-introduce them progressively.
Instead of joining the sleeve extensions to the body by a knitting
procedure as described in relation to the garments of FIGS. 3 to 7,
the joins can be made by a linking procedure using a linking
mechanism mounted on the knitting machine. This method of making
the sleeve-body joins is illustrated in FIG. 13. This machine used
in knitting the garment when employing this type of sleeve-body
join is a flat V-bed knitting machine having two main beds 80 and
81 (see for example FIG. 13a). The machine also has two pairs of
movable secondary beds 83, 84 and 85, 86, mounted in the manner
shown in FIGS. 10 and 11 and two linking devices as illustrated in
FIG. 12, each arranged for cooperation with needles of one of the
main needle beds 80, 81. All the needles of the machine are of a
kind able to transfer loops to and accept loops from a needle
located in any opposite bed and the needles 66 of the main beds 80
and 81 each have a groove 68 adapted to receive a looper needle 67
as will be described below.
Each looper device comprises a housing 71 movable along a guide rod
72 by a lead screw 73. Within the housing 71 is a conventional
reciprocating mechanism for reciprocating the looper needle 67. The
housing 71 also carries a conventional feed mechanism (not shown)
for feeding yarn 69 to the looper needle 67.
In FIG. 13, which is diagrammatic, the loops shown are purely
illustrative and in an actual machine and garment these numbers
would be far greater than is shown in FIG. 13.
In making a garment in which the sleeve-body joins are formed by
linking, the body, sleeves and sleeve extensions are first knitted,
the sleeves and sleeve extensions on needles of movable secondary
beds in a flat V-bed knitting machine. The top part of the body
tube is formed with two shaped flat panels of fabric so that when
the body is finished, loops along the line 32 of FIG. 3 at the
front and rear of the garment are held on needles of the opposed
main beds of the machine. Similarly, loops along the line 32 of the
sleeve extension 31 shown in FIG. 3 are held on opposed secondary
beds of the machine. This stage in the knitting procedure is shown
in FIG. 13a and the subsequent stages in the present method of
carrying out the linking are shown in FIGS. 13b to 13f.
The secondary needle bed 85 is now moved to the right and the
secondary needle bed 84 is moved to the left in FIG. 13, each of
these needle beds being moved through a distance of one needle
pitch. The needles of the secondary beds are now operated to
transfer a loop 87 at the inner end of a sleeve extension 31 from
bed 83 to an empty needle of bed 84 and to transfer a loop 88 at
the inner end of the other sleeve extension 31 from bed 86 to an
empty needle of bed 85. The main bed 80 and the secondary beds 85
and 86 are now shogged to the left through one needle pitch as
shown in FIG. 13c. In the next traverse of the cam carriage,
needles of the main beds and of the secondary beds are operated to
transfer the loop 87 to the needle of the main bed 80 carrying an
end loop 89 to the body extension 33, and the loop 88 to the needle
of the main bed 81 carrying an end loop 90 of the body extension
33.
The linking devices associated with each main bed are next
positioned and operated to pass linking threads through the pairs
of loops 87, 89, and 88, 90.
The linking is carried out in the following way. The needles
carrying the pair of loops to be linked are raised by traversing
the cam carriage across the needle beds, the pattern control for
the needles being programmed to cause butts of the appropriate
needles to be presented for raising by the cams. When the needles
have been raised, the looper devices are positioned opposite them
and are operated so that each looper needle 67 passes through the
two loops on the corresponding needle 66 and engages in the groove
68. Yarn 69 is fed into the hook of the looper needle in the
conventional way and the looper needle is withdrawn. The cam
carriage is again traversed across the beds causing the raised
needles 66 to be retracted thus casting off the loops 87, 89 and
88, 90 which have been joined by the linking thread.
The beds 80, 84 and 86 are now shogged one needle pitch to the
right (FIG. 13d) to enable the end loop 93 of one sleeve extension
31 to be transferred to a needle of bed 83 and to enable the end
loop 94 of the other sleeve extension to be transferred to a needle
of the bed 86. The beds 80, 83 and 85 are now shogged to the right
by one needle pitch (FIG. 13e) and the loops 93 and 94 are
transferred to needles 66 of the opposite main beds holding end
loops 95 and 96 respectively of the body.
The linking devices are now moved to positions opposite the doubled
loops and linking of these loops is carried out in the manner
described above for loops 87, 89, 88, 90.
The transferring and linking procedure is then carried through
again in respect of the new end loops of the body and sleeve
extensions and is repeated until the linking of the sleeves to the
body has been completed and the body has been cast off.
The garment of FIG. 8 is knitted on a V-bed knitting machine having
a pair of opposed main beds and a pair of secondary needle beds
movable longitudinally of the main beds. A tube 49 constituting the
body of the garment is first knitted on the main beds of the
machine. Following the knitting of the body tube, or
contemporaneously with the knitting of the body tube, a sleeve tube
50 is knitted on the secondary beds of the machine. A sleeve
extension 51 is then knitted on the secondary beds as a
continuation of and integral with the sleeve 50 and comprises
U-shaped courses on the secondary beds, the open end of each
U-shape being at the edge of the sleeve joining the loops of the
body tube held on the main needle beds.
In knitting a portion 52 of the sleeve extension immediately
adjacent the tubular part 50 of the sleeve, needles are taken out
of action progressively in the direction towards the outer edge of
the extension. When the line of loops 53 is held on the needles of
the secondary beds, all the needles are brought back into action
together and the knitting of U-shaped courses to form the sleeve
extension 51 is continued on needles holding all the loops of the
sleeve wales.
Before the line of loops 53 is formed, the secondary beds are moved
to bring the needles holding the sleeve loops at the underarm
position C opposite the needles holding the outermost body loops,
the needles are operated to place the outermost body loops at the
left hand side of the body on the needles of the secondary beds
holding the loops at the underarm position. The U-shaped course 53
is then knitted and a single loop on each inner end of the U-shaped
course is drawn through the doubled sleeve and body loops. In this
way the outermost body loops are removed from the needles of the
main bed. The secondary beds are then again moved in by one needle
pitch and the next body loops are transferred to needles of the
secondary beds at the innermost ends of those beds. A further
U-shaped course is knitted on the needles of the secondary beds and
the end loops of the course are again drawn through the doubled
sleeve body loops. The inwards movement of the secondary beds is
continued after the knitting of each U-shaped course and the body
loops are thus progressively transferred to the needles of the
secondary beds and are knitted off.
Half way across the body the knitting of the extension 51 of the
sleeve 50 can be regarded as completed and the knitting of the
extension 55 of the sleeve 56 is commenced. This is carried on in
the same way as the knitting of the extension 51. The part 57 of
the sleeve extension 55 is next knitted by progressively holding up
needles from the underarm position to the outermost edge of the
extension and then re-introducing the needles once more. The
tubular sleeve 56 is then knitted on the needles of the secondary
bed using tubular courses, all the body loops having been removed
from the needles of the main beds at this stage.
The garment is finished by cutting out and finishing the neck.
The suture formation shown in the garments in the previous Figures
can also be used in the garment of FIG. 8.
The sleeves of any of the garments described can be short sleeves
and need not extend to the wrist of the wearer.
The sutures used in the sleeve extensions of any of the garments
can be Y-shaped sutures as illustrated in the garment of FIG. 9. In
knitting the garment shown in FIG. 9 by the same method as
described with reference to FIGS. 3, and 4, the sleeve tubes 60 are
knitted first in the direction from the lower end of the sleeve and
when the loops along the line 61 are held on to needles, needles
are progressively taken out of action from the underarm position D
towards the outer edge of the garment. However, the needles holding
loops of wales 62 at the outer edge are kept continuously in
action. When all the needles which are to be taken out of action
have ceased to function, needles are progressively re-introduced up
to the point 63 after which the needles thus brought back into
action are progressively taken out of action again until all the
needles previously inactive are again inactive. Needles are then
progressively re-introduced into action once more until all the
needles are knitting.
A similar procedure is followed to produce the Y-shaped suture
64.
The subsequent knitting of the garment is as described with
reference to FIG. 3.
* * * * *