U.S. patent number 3,789,098 [Application Number 05/152,245] was granted by the patent office on 1974-01-29 for methods and apparatus for constructing knitted brassiere blanks and brassieres.
This patent grant is currently assigned to International Playtex Corporation. Invention is credited to Raymond C. Cole, James G. Donaghy, William C. Hittel.
United States Patent |
3,789,098 |
Cole , et al. |
January 29, 1974 |
METHODS AND APPARATUS FOR CONSTRUCTING KNITTED BRASSIERE BLANKS AND
BRASSIERES
Abstract
There is disclosed as an article of manufacture an integrally
knit blank shaped to allow for the reorientation of the wales along
the apex of the cup and to allow for the reorientation of the wales
along the body of the breast receiving elements at least along the
area which will comprise the lower cup portion, to an orientation
other than originally knitted. There is also disclosed a flat
boarding arrangement as the shaping apparatus as well as the
stabilizing form. The method of knitting and shaping generally
includes the steps of integrally knitting, with at least some heat
setting yarns a blank having relatively concial breast pockets and
a relative flat apex area; reorienting a portion of the yarns in
the apex area to provide a relatively rounded apex configuration;
and heat setting the blank to retain the apex area in such
relatively rounded configuration.
Inventors: |
Cole; Raymond C. (Hillsdale,
NJ), Hittel; William C. (New Hyde Park, NY), Donaghy;
James G. (Flanders, NJ) |
Assignee: |
International Playtex
Corporation (New York, NY)
|
Family
ID: |
22542111 |
Appl.
No.: |
05/152,245 |
Filed: |
June 11, 1971 |
Current U.S.
Class: |
264/103; 66/176;
223/52; 66/89; 66/189; 450/92 |
Current CPC
Class: |
D04B
11/36 (20130101); D04B 1/246 (20130101); A41C
5/00 (20130101); A41C 3/0014 (20130101); D10B
2403/033 (20130101) |
Current International
Class: |
A41C
3/00 (20060101); A41C 5/00 (20060101); D04B
1/24 (20060101); D04B 1/22 (20060101); D04b
011/36 () |
Field of
Search: |
;66/176,189,175,96R,89
;223/52,66,68 ;264/103,292 ;128/516 |
References Cited
[Referenced By]
U.S. Patent Documents
Primary Examiner: Reynolds; Wm. Carter
Attorney, Agent or Firm: Fried; Stewart J. Schwab; Jeffrey
A. Caputo; Michael A.
Claims
Having thus described certain forms of the invention in some
detail, what is claimed is:
1. A method of knitting and shaping breast receiving articles
comprising the steps of:
integrally knitting a breast receiving blank from yarns, at least a
portion of which are heat setting, said blank having a relatively
flat body portion and two spaced apart relatively conical breast
pockets, each of said breast pockets including a relatively flat
apex area;
knitting a second breast receiving blank;
securing said second breast receiving blank to the originally knit
blank along respective longitudinal selvages of each of said blanks
to form a hollow chamber defined by said blanks;
simultaneously re-orienting said portion of the yarns in the
respective flat apex areas on both of said blanks to provide a
relatively rounded apex configuration by exerting a shaping force
internal of said hollow chamber; and
heat setting said blank to retain said apex areas in shaped
relatively rounded configuration.
2. The method as claimed in claim 1 wherein said reorientation
includes the step of inserting an elongated flat shaping board
having laterally extending shaped protuberances adapted to shape at
least the apex areas of said breast receiving pockets within the
chamber formed by said secured together blanks.
3. The method as claimed in claim 2 wherein said shaped
protuberance of said flat shaping board are extensible and
retractable transversely of said board and whereby said shaping
board is inserted within said chamber formed by said secured
together blanks with said protuberances in retracted position, said
protuberances being extended when said board is within said
chamber.
4. The method as claimed in claim 2 wherein each of said
protuberances of said shaping board include a peripheral contour
having a concave outer edge, a convex inner edge, and a concave
apex between said outer and inner edges.
5. The method as claimed in claim 1 further including the step of
securing one distal end of each of said blanks transversely to
provide a closed end chamber defined by said blanks.
6. The method as claimed in claim 5 wherein said reorientation step
includes the step of inserting a flat shaping board having
laterally extending shaped protuberances adapted to shape at least
the apex areas of said breast receiving pockets within said flat
shaping board includes at least one end portion having a peripheral
stepped shape, said last referred to end portion adapted to seat
along said closed end of said sewn together blanks.
7. The method as claimed in claim 6 wherein said stepped shape is
an omega shape.
8. The method as claimed in claim 1 further including the step of
separating said blanks and incorporating each said blank, after
said heat setting step , as the frontal portion of a brassiere.
9. The method as claimed in claim 8 wherein said incorporating step
includes the steps of cutting the outer side edges of each said
blank to an inclined orientation.
10. The method as claimed in claim 8 wherein said incorporating
step further includes the step of cutting one selvage edge of each
said blank to provide a concave line from first points along the
lateral edges of said blank to respective second points along said
selvage spaced apart and laterally offset from the respective apex
areas of said blank and cutting a convex line which extends
downward through the area between said breast receiving pockets
between said second points.
11. The method as claimed in claim 1 wherein the knitting of said
blanks is effected by a flat bed full fashioning machine.
12. An apparatus for shaping a pair of brassiere blanks comprising
an elongated flat board having at least two shaping surfaces
extending laterally of said board, each of said shaping surfaces
adapted to stress portions of one of said blanks in selected areas
and at least two additional shaping surfaces extending laterally of
said board along the longitudinal edge of said board opposed to
said first pair of shaping surfaces adapted to stress selected
areas of the other said blank.
13. The apparatus as claimed in claim 12 wherein one end of said
board is stepped.
14. The apparatus as claimed in claim 13 wherein said stepped end
portion defines a peripheral omega-like shape.
15. The apparatus as claimed in claim 12 wherein each of said
shaping surfaces includes a peripheral edge defining a
substantially curvilinear hemispheric profile.
16. A method of knitting and shaping breast receiving articles
comprising the steps of:
integrally knitting a breast receiving blank from yarns, at least a
portion of which are heat setting, said blank having a relatively
flat body portion and two spaced apart relatively conical breast
pockets, each of said breast pockets including a relatively flat
apex area;
knitting a second breast receiving blank;
securing said second breast receiving blank to the first blank
along respective transverse portions of the body portion of each
blank to form an endless length defined by said blanks;
simultaneously re-orienting a portion of the yarns in said
relatively flat apex area to provide a relatively rounded apex
configuration by exerting a shaping force internal of said endless
length; and
heat setting said blank to retain said apex areas in said shaped
relatively rounded configuration.
Description
The present invention relates to a knitted brassiere blank,
brassieres and methods and apparatus for constructing the same.
Brassieres are generally formed of a variety of individual cut-out
pattern pieces which are sewn together to form various brassiere
constituents, e.g. cups, dorsal or side panels, shoulder straps,
etc. In turn, the constituents are then sewn together to form a
finished garment.
The most difficult portions of the brassiere to construct, in terms
of the cutting and sewing operations are the cups or breast
receiving elements, since the finished cups as sewn are formed into
conical, three dimensional units.
While cups constructed of various constituent pieces do provide a
shaped pocket for the reception of the breast, contouring of the
cup to the actual shape of the breast is difficult. While a more
natural contouring of the cups may be approached in a sewn cup,
this generally requires the cup to be fabricated of a relatively
large number of component cup segments successively joined along
adjacent edges. While the resultant cup more closely approximates
the actual contour of the breast, the sewing operation becomes
complex, more expensive and results in a large number of seams in
each cup portion. Such excessive seaming may be undesirable as
detracting from the natural look presently in vogue.
Thus, most sewn cups are generally constructed today from two
segments joining along a common edge. One segment forms the upper
cup area and the other segment forms the lower cup area with the
seam running longitudinally and somewhat medially through the cup.
In some instances, the lower cup segment is itself a twopiece
construction thus adding a vertical seam to the lower cup portion
generally running from the apex or nipple receiving area of the cup
vertically downward to the lower edge of the lower cup
constituent.
These so-called two-piece or three-piece cups are relatively
inexpensive to fabricate and have found large commercial
acceptance, however the limitation of the cup constituents to two
or three pieces limits the degree of contouring which can be
effected especially with regard to the rather subtle curvatures
along the inner and outer sides of the breast.
The result is that the cups mold the breast not visa versa with
little if any degree of "personalization" of the cups to the
natural contour of the women.
Various attempts have been made to overcome this problem.
Stretchable or yieldable materials have been incorporated into the
cups. While more natural contouring was effected there is a
correlative loss of support. Molding of cups has also been
developed, whereby a sheet of heat stabilizing material is die
molded to a given configuration. Since the dies can be pre-shaped,
as molded, the cups incorporate the more natural contour of the
breast. However, the molding of breast cups is not without many
problems. The shaping and stabilization of the material is not
always permanent or sufficiently long-lived to make a product
adaptable for a relatively long use period. Further the molding
operation not only stabilizes the cup fabric, but additionally, in
certain instances rigidizes certain areas of the fabric. In some
instances, the area of rigidizing is not in desirable locations,
thus adversely affecting the fit and supportive features of the cup
or otherwise serves to unbalance the cup.
In lieu of a sewn cup of a molded cup, it has been suggested that
knitting techniques be employed in fabricating the bra-ssiere.
Knitting has many desirable features. Firstly, seams in the cup can
be completely eliminated. Thus, the seam lines of the sewn cups
which are oftentimes outlines through clinging outer garments are
eliminated. Further, within limits proscribed by the knitting
equipment, a more natural shaping of the cups may be effected.
In more recent years, it has been recognized that flat bed hosiery
equipment can be adapted to a knitting program which will allow for
the knitting of a griege blank in a form suitable for finishing
into a brassiere. In particular, U.S. Pat. No. 3,092,987 to Levine
and U.S. Pat. No. 3,500,665 to Braxton et al. generally describe
brassiere blanks knit on a flat bed knitting machine. Similarly,
techniques such as disclosed in U.S. Pat. No. 3,537,279 to Epley
employing circular knitting equipment have also been developed to
knit brassiere blanks.
The prior art flat bed full fashion hosiery knitting techniques
form an elongate brassiere blank by continuously knitting from one
end to the other and successively widening and narrowing to form a
pair of breast cups or pockets. The prior art circular knitting
machine generally employs the technology employed in knitting the
heel portion of a stocking to knit an elongate brassiere blank. It
has been found that the blanks knit by either method while
providing satisfactory brassiere cup portions do not adequately
provide sufficient support to function properly as a brassiere
unless further steps are taken to stabilize or set the yarns of the
knitted blanks into their predetermined shapes.
Thus, it has been found necessary to emplace the knit blanks over
forms generally correlating to the contour of the blank and
hydrosetting the blank in an autoclave. The knitted blank is thus
stabilized so as to more permanently retain its knitted
pre-determined shape when subjected to the weight and deformation
stresses emplaced upon it by a wearer.
The process thus initially appears akin to that heretofore
described with respect to molding, however, in lieu of the cup
constituents starting as a sheet of heat stabilizing material,
which are shaped by three dimensional dies, the cups are first
pre-shaped by knitting and then subjected to three dimensional
dies.
However, these techniques do not fully solve the problem. Where
flat bed full fashioning equipment is employed, the prior art
teaches a particular sequence of widening and narrowing along
either side of a medial row of plain knit wales to effect a three
dimensional shaping especially in the apex or nipple area of the
cups. In practice, fashioning in this manner results in a
relatively large number of wales in the apex or nipple area. These
additional wales while required to fashion the cups provide an
undesirable effect in the finished blank in that the additional
wales form a pocket in the nipple area which is larger than
required thus adversely affecting the fit and aesthetic appeal of
the brassiere. Further, the ability of the garment to lose support
or sag is heightened, since there is an excess of wales, there is a
greater tendency for the lower cup area to give as the weight of
the breast pulls downward on the lower cup area of the
brassiere.
Even absent the problems presented due to the excess of wales in
apex or nipple area, there is an arcuate orientation of wales in
the bust receiving elements and there is thus a natural
prediliction of these curved areas to give, due to their shape,
under the weight and stresses of the breast. Thus, prior workers
have found it desirable, in order to provide a functional garment,
to add in fairly substantial numbers, reinforcing yarns along the
lower cup portion of the brassiere blank. In terms of a knitting
program, there is thus required a more complex arrangement since
the lower cup portion has a different knitted structure than the
upper breast cup portion.
Not only are there problems in the knitting as above described,
further, the stabilization step requires three-dimensional forms
and relatively large autoclaves to accept the forms. There are also
problems of registry and affixation of the blanks to the forms to
provide a proper positioning as between the two as well as the
problem of uniformity in terms of emplacing the same portion of the
blank over the same portion of the form in order to mass produce
brassiere blanks having like consistencies of shape and
stability.
According to the present invention, all of the above disadvantages
are obviated by the provision of an integrally knit brassiere blank
knit with at least some of the yarns being heat setting, with such
integrally knit brassiere blank having a first configuration or
orientation of wales. After knitting the blank is shaped so as to
reorient the wales in selected areas to a different finished
configuration with the blank stabilized with the wales in their
reoriented finished position. That is, the knit brassiere blank is
knit to a first configuration and after knitting, shaped to a
preselected, different finished configuration.
As more particularly described, the present invention provides as
an article of manufacture an integrally knit blank shaped to allow
for the reorientation of the wales along the apex of the cup to a
selected curvature and to allow for the reorientation of the wales
along the body of the breast receiving elements at least along the
area which will comprise the lower cup portion.
In lieu of the three-dimensional forms hereinbefore described, it
has been found desirable to employ a flat boarding arrangement as
the shaping apparatus as well as the stabilizing form.
Advantageously, the flat board may be used to shape and stabilize
two blanks, simultaneously.
By affixing two blanks together along their respective selvages it
is possible to reorient such apex wales in two blanks
simultaneously. The preferred apparatus for shaping and reorienting
selected yarns of the blanks employs an elongated flat board having
at least two shaping surfaces extending laterally outward of the
board, with each of the shaping surfaces adapted to stress portions
of the blank in selected areas. Preferably the shaping surfaces are
reciprocating, that is extensible and retractable to provide for
selective pressures and also to allow for proper positioning of the
shaping board and the blank prior to the exertion of the shaping
force.
The blank itself is preferably a full fashioned knit brassiere
blank having knit wales extending longitudinally of the blank;
fashioned breast cups; a row of fashioning mark lines extending
longitudinally through the breast cups; each of the breast cups
including sections of widened and narrowed knit courses extending
transversely of the blank to opposite selvages thereof, and an area
of straight knitting which extends through the apex of the cup
between the sections of widened and narrowed knit courses with at
least a portion of the yarns in the straight knit area adapted to
be reoriented under stress and set as reoriented. Preferably an
identical knitting pattern is followed along either side of the
fashioning mark lines.
There is thus hereinafter described a method of knitting and
shaping a breast receiving article generally including the steps of
integrally knitting, with at least some heat setting yarns a blank
having relatively conical breast pockets and relative flat apex
area; reorienting a portion of the wales in the apex area to
provide a relatively rounded apex configuration; and heat setting
the blank to retain the apex area in such relatively rounded
configuration.
Although the features believed to be characteristic of the
invention are pointed out in the claims, the invention in a manner
in which it may be carried out may be further understood by
reference to the following description and the accompanying
drawings.
FIG. 1 is a perspective view of a blank knit in accordance with the
teachings of the present invention.
FIG. 2 is a side elevation of the blank of FIG. 1 as viewed lying
flat.
FIG. 3 schematically shows the knitting sequence for the cup areas
of a single cup of the present invention.
FIG. 4 is a plan view of two blanks knit in accordance with the
present invention and then sewn together along their respective
selvages.
FIG. 5A is a top plan view of a flat forming board used to finally
shape a pair of knit blank in accordance with the present
invention.
FIG. 5B is a side elevation of the shaping board of FIG. 5A.
FIG. 5C is a side elevation of an alternate shaping board used to
shape a single blank of the present invention.
FIG. 6 is a sectional view of a laterally expandable shaping board
of the present invention.
FIG. 7 is a perspective view of a three-dimensional shaping member
which may alternatively be used in the practive of the present
invention.
FIG. 8 is a plan view of a pattern for the upper cup section of a
brassiere having cup portions constructed in accordance with the
present invention.
FIG. 9 is a plan view of a pattern for the bottom cup section of a
brassiere having cup portions constructed in accordance with the
present invention.
FIG. 10 is a plan view of a brassiere constructed in accordance
with the teachings of the present invention, shown laid out
flat.
FIG. 11 is a perspective view of a brassiere of FIG. 10 shown as
worn.
Referring now to the figures where like numbers denote like parts
from the various figures.
In FIG. 1 there is illustrated a knit bra blank 1 which is knit
longitudinally on a flat bed full fashioned hosiery machine. The
blank 1 is generally comprised of a pair of knit breast pockets 2,3
with a pair of fashioning mark lines 4,5 extending longitudinally
through the breast cups.
The dark lines on the blank 1 schematically represent some of the
wales, it being understood that courses extend transversally across
the wales, between the selvages of the blank.
A number of plain wales generally indicated by the number 6
longitudinally extend between the fashioning mark lines 4,5. As
knit, the blank 1 further provides a bridging area 7 between the
knit pockets 2,3.
While the blank as knit has a shape which generally conforms to
that of a breast receiving garment, the blank 1 is knit to provide
pockets having a contour of a lesser volume and more angular
orientation of areas than in the finished brassiere.
This is more clearly shown in FIG. 3 which is a somewhat schematic
representation of a cup knitting sequence. The peripheral shape
defines the selvage with the plain knit wales indicated as 6 in
FIG. 1 extending medially, longitudinally across the schematic
representation between the fashioning mark lines 4,5.
As illsutrated in FIG. 3, there are at least three areas B,C and D
and preferably four sequential knitting areas A,B,C and D. Each
delineated area represents a particular fashioning sequence. It
should be noted that the fashioning is identical both above and
below the medial plain wale portions (excluding any indicia marking
as thereinafter discussed.)
The representation and the data following represents the knitting
and fashioning sequences with respect to a size 34B brassiere
blank, however it is to be understood that an appropriate
modification of the sequence will adapt it to any size brassiere
desired.
In the illustrative example, there are 196 wales transversally from
selvage to selvage in the body portion of the blank where the
fashioning sequences for the formation of the pockets begins. The
number of wales is increased in the following manner:
In the area delineated by A there is indicia knitting, that is
there is fashioning in a manner so as to readily provide visual
identity to the brassiere, such as by knitting as follows 3
[1.times.2] [1.times.4]; that is, three repeats of a sequence of
adding one wale for every two courses and then a single repeat of
one wale for every four courses.
In the area marked B the knitting sequence is 61 [1.times.2] that
there is repeated the addition of one wale for every two courses 61
times.
The apex area C is knit 40 straight. The inner cup area D is knit
65 [1.times.2], that there is repeated 65 times a decreasing of one
wale every two courses.
Stated in another manner, a blank for a size 34B brassiere can be
made in the following method: ##SPC1##
It should be noted readily by the above and FIG. 3 that the apex
area is straight knot as distinguished from fashioned. In lieu of
the rather complex knitting program which is heretofore been
employed, especially along the apex area there is no widening and
narrowing through the apex area and, the apex area on either side
of the straight knit wales 4,5 are knit in an identical manner.
There is thus eliminated the problems of excess wales in the nipple
or apex area hereinbefore described.
The areas A', B', C', and D' are knit respectively simultaneously
with areas A,B,C and D and are respectively identical on either
side of the plain knit wales 4,5.
It should be noted that the configuration thus effected by the
knitting of the blank 1 in its knitted stage provides a blank 1
having a contour, in particular in the areas through the apex or
nipple receiving area E (FIG. 2,3) dissimilar to the shape of the
nipple of the breast. In lieu of a softly convexed nipple area, the
blank 1 provides a relatively flat profile. There is thus provided
a knitted blank 1 having pockets 2,3 whose nipple area E contour is
less convex than desirable in a finished garment.
While the selection of yarns will vary depending upon the artisan
the following yarns have been found readily suitable:
In outer side portions (knit tIN MAIN BODY OF BLANK lationship)
Total Denier - 145 1.1/100/34, that is single ply --100 denier 34
filament a Total Denier added - 35 1. 1/15/1, that is s n 2.3
(1/15/1, that is 3 (single2. 1/20/7, that is single ply-20 denier
seve
Once the blank 1 has been knit, it is then subjected to a further
shaping step. Thus further shaping step is preferably effected by a
flat boarding arrangement, more particularly described hereinafter.
However, other means such as through the use of specially
configured three-dimensional molds may be employed. The shaping
realigns the wales, in particular in the nipple area and along the
adjacent areas on either side of the plain knit wales 4,5 to
provide an outwardly rounded contoured shape to the nipple area and
further, to provide a less arcuate orientation of wales through
that portion of the blank which will be subjected to the greatest
distortional forces of the breast, to wit; the central lower
portion of the blank. thus, not only has the problem of excess
wales in the nipple area been eliminated, but the degree of
curvature of the wales has been modified with a resultant decrease
in the prediliction of the lower cup portion or distort to sag
under the weight of the breast.
While the shaping of the blank 1 may be effected in a number of
ways, FIG. 4-6 illustrate the preferred process and apparatus
therefore.
As shown in FIG. 4 the blank 1 is sewn along its selvage edges
[only one shown] 9 to another blank 8 of like construction. There
is thus provided a tubular arrangement of two blanks 1, 8, having
an opening 10 into which the shaping mechanism may be emplaced.
In lieu of the opening formed by the distal end portion of the sewn
together blanks 1, 8 it will be noted in FIG. 4 that the opposite
distal end portion, instead of being open, is sewn shut in a
straight transverse line to provide a closed end arrangement
11.
As hereinafter more particularly described, the closed end is
adapted to seat a portion of the shaping mechanism so as to provide
for a registered alignment and orientation of the blanks. However,
it is to be understood that in lieu of the closed end arrangement
11, both ends may be open.
Inserted internally within the chamber formed by the sewn together
blanks 1, 8 is a flat shaping board such as shaping board 12
illustrated in FIGS. 5A and 5B. The shaping board 12 is a
relatively flat longitudinally ending member having respective
pairs of laterally extending diametrically opposed shaping
protuberances 13 along its longitudinal side edges. The shaping
protuberances may be generally described as having a substantially
curvilinear hemispheric profile.
While the shaping board 12 illustrated is configured in a manner
which will allow the shaping of two blanks simultaneously, such as
the blanks 1,8 of FIG. 4, a single blank, can be shaped by a board
such as the board 14 shown in FIG. 5C.
The board 12 protuberances 13 which serve as the shaping surfaces
for the blank 1 or blanks 1,8 have a peripheral contour somewhat
dissimilar to that of the knit blank. While generally hemispheric
in shape the outer side 15 of the protuberances 13 are somewhat
concave; the inner sides 17 are somewhat convex and the apex area
16 is concave.
Thus, when the board 12 is emplaced within the sleeve or chamber
formed by the sewn together blanks 1,8 stress in selected areas is
exerted on the blanks 1,8 thus forcing the blanks 1,8 to shape.
The most notable deviation from the initially knit shape is in the
respective apex area E of the blank 1 as it is contoured by the
respective apex area 16 of the board protuberance 13. This primary
area of shaping however interacts with other areas of the blank to
alter to some degree other major areas of the blank. For example,
the stress in the apex area E aids in the molding of the area of
the blank adjacent the apex area E to the convex inner sides 17 and
concave outer sides 15 of the board 14. This prestressing provides
in the finished blank a roundness and a shaping closely following
the supple contours of the breast, thus effecting a more natural
cup shape.
Additionally the stress exerted transversely along the blanks 1,8
from the apex of one blank 1, to the apex of its mated blank 8
causes the wales extending along the line of stress to deviate from
their initially knit orientation (See FIG. 1) to a given curvature.
It has been found that such reorientation, after the blanks 1,8 are
stabilized has a salutory effect in terms of the supportive
capabilities of the finished brassiere in that the lesser degree of
curvature in the area along the central underside of the breast
deters the brassiere from sagging.
As shown in FIG. 5A and 5B, one end 18 of the board 12 is stepped
so as to provide an omega shape. In emplacing the board within the
chamber formed by the sewn together blanks 1,8, the omega shaped
end portion of the board is positioned in juxtaposition to the sewn
together end portions 11 of the blanks 1,8.
The omega shaped end relaxes the tensions along the end portions of
the blanks 1,8 and allows the blanks 1,8 to be selectively deformed
by the protuberance portions 13 of the board 12.
So as to insure uniformity and proper tensioning of the blanks 1,8
by the board 12, gripping means such as pins or clamps may be
provided along the opposite end 19 of the board 12. Additionally,
and as previously state, the blanks 1,8 may be knit in a manner
such that indicia markings discernible to the trained eye are
pre-knit into the blank affording a registration point for the
gripping means. The pin or gripping means placement may be chosen
to effect an equalization of tensions such as by providing for
securement along the central width area of the ends of the blanks
1,8, thus allowing one end outer portion of the sewn together
blanks 1,8 to remain free.
In terms of removal after setting, the stitching affixing the
blanks 1,8 is merely removed and the two, now separated blanks 1
and 8 can be removed from the shaping mechanism.
Where, such as shown in FIG. 5C, the board 14 is adapted to shape a
single blank means such as clamps 20 are provided along the
non-protuberance edges of the board 14 to retain the blank in a
preselected manner on the board.
While the nature of the knitting yarns prior to their being
stabilized or set into their final shape may allow for the
emplacement of a board 12 within the chamber formed by sewn
together blanks 1,8 and extensible and retractable board 21 such as
illustrated in FIG. 6 may be employed.
As illustrated in FIG. 6 the board 21 is a tubular arrangement
which although more structured is akin to a pants stretcher. The
board 21 extends longitudinally (with only a portion of the board
21 illustrated) so as to generally define a shape like that of the
board 12 of FIGS. 5A and 5B including the omega shaped end, but
absent the preshaped protuberances 13 of the board 12. The board 21
of FIG. 6 provides transversely extensible and retractable units
23, which in extended position define shaping protuberances like
the protuberances 13 of FIG. 5A.
Extensibility may be effected in a variety of ways. FIG. 6
illustrated a hydraulically actuating arrangement including an H
shaped unit 24 having hollow legs 25 which act as tracks for the
roller 26 mounter extensible units 27. The bridge 28 of the H
shaped unit 24 acts as a mount for the hydraulic rams 29 and a
conduit for the hydraulic fluid conduit 30. The rams 29 may be
actuated to extend or retract with the outer end 31 of each ram 29
secured to the inner surface of the extensible units 27.
The sewn together blanks 1,8 of FIG. 4 are emplaced over the frame
22 when the extensible units 27 are in retracted position. After
the blanks 1,8 are secured, as aforedescribed, the extensible units
27 are actuated to their extended position and the blanks 1,8 are
subjected to the shaping forces hereinbefore described.
It can be appreciated that the aforedescribed means and arrangement
allowing for extensible and retractable unit is but one of many
arrangements which may be suitably employed.
As shown in FIG. 7 in lieu of what may be termed the flat shaping
techniques hereinbefore described, the blanks knit in accordance
with the present invention may be shaped on a three-dimensional
shaping form 32. The shaping form 32 generally provides a dual
upper torso arrangement having shaped bust protuberances 33. The
knit blanks are sewn together along their transverse edges as
distinguished from the longitudinal edge joining of FIG. 4. The
sewn together blanks are then emplaced over the shaping form 32
with the shape of the blanks altered by the shaping form 32 in a
manner akin to that previously described.
It is to be understood that the knitting technique may be varied
somewhat where three-dimensional forced shaping as distinguished
from flat shaping is concerned. Indicia knitting may be employed to
provide for ease of transverse edge registry. Additionally, both
the shaping form 32 bust protuberances 33 would be
three-dimensionally shaped to provide proper concavity and
convexity in selected areas.
Once the blank or blanks 1,8 have been emplaced upon the shaping
structure and secured, the blank is set into shape. This may be
readily accomplished by employing in the knitting of the blank,
heat stabilizing or setting yarns and by subjecting the boarded
blanks to heat. While any heat means may be employed, hydrosetting
in an autoclave has been found particularly suitable. It should be
noted that while the yarns are stabilized by the heat, they need
not be rigidized.
Once set, the blanks 1,8 are removed from the autoclave and the
shaping means, the blanks may then be finished in any desired
manner to form a finished brassiere. While the steps may vary
depending upon the desired end result, FIGS. 8-10 illustrate a
preferred method of completing the brassiere so as to provide a
garment having enhanced characteristics.
As aforedescribed, to provide for ease in knitting, shaping and
registry the areas on either side of the central plain knit wales 6
between the fashioning marks 4,5 of the blank 1 are the same.
However, as illustrated in FIG. 8 that portion of the blank which
will in a finished brassiere act as the upper cup portions may be
cut along its selvage to provide an arcuate inwardly curved line 34
centrally between the brassiere strap or tab locations 35 and a
slightly outwardly curved line along each tab location 35 and the
medial fashioning line 4 of the blank.
The lower cups are cut in the general shape illustrated in FIG. 9,
that is with the selvage cut to provide an arcuate underbust line
36, convex with respect to the fashioning line 4 and with a concave
line extending between the fashioning line 4 and the arcuate
underburst line 36.
The foregoing cutting of the blank provides a brassiere 38 (shown
in FIGS. 10-11) having a common medial fashioning line 4 with
biased pitched outer edges 39. The pitch is highly desirable in
terms of proper fitting of the brassiere 10. The human torso in the
chest area is shaped somewhat like a truncated inverted cone. When
laid flat, the pitched brassiere describes an arc, as shown in FIG.
10, however, when wrapped about the body, a proper contouring to
the torso is effected.
A single circumferential band or a pair of dorsal or side panels 40
of any desired material are attached to the blank along its outer
side edges and it two side panels 40 are employed, conventional
closure means 41 (e.g. hook and eye) is provided to complete the
brassiere 40. Shoulder straps extend from the upper portion of the
blank and are secured along the rear of the brassiere.
It is to be appreciated that in lieu of the aforedescribed method
of providing a desirable pitch to the blank, it is also possible to
knit the dorsal portions integrally with the frontal area of the
blank and provide the desired pitch, by selective cutting, tucking,
sewing or darting of the dorsal portions.
It has been found that along with the aforementioned enumerated
advantages effected by the teachings of the present invention
various additional highly desirable results result. For example,
the absence of fashioning in the nipple or apex of the blank
results in a less perceptive difference in opacity as between the
main body portion of the blank and the nipple or apex area E.
Even with the denier yarns previously described which are of a
relatively light denier, the reorientation of the wales, as
aforedescribed provides a relatively firm supportive brassiere.
Where the flat boarding shaping is employed, aside from the
economies effected in board costs, and the required size of
autoclave needed, the problems of registry are lessened especially
in view of there being less variables and surfaces for the worker
to contend with. Additionally, the flat boards may be of uniform
thickness irrespective of size, with the variations in size
determined by the size of the protuberances.
While the aforedescribed description sets forth the basic steps of
knitting a blank, preferably longitudinally sewing two blanks
together, shaping the blanks preferably by flat boarding, setting
and finishing the blanks into a brassiere, it is appreciated that
after knitting the blanks are subjected to many other processing
steps, such as scouring, dyeing, brightening, etc..
Although the foregoing description has been particularly set forth
with respect to brassiere blanks and brassieres made therefrom, it
is to be appreciated, that the term "brassiere" as employed
contemplates any breast receiving article such as halters, bathing
suit tops and other breast receiving outerwear, as well as breast
receiving liners for garments.
The terms and expressions employed herein are used as terms of
description; it is recognized though that various modifications are
possible.
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