U.S. patent number 3,768,490 [Application Number 05/222,299] was granted by the patent office on 1973-10-30 for permanently waving and permanently setting of hair.
This patent grant is currently assigned to Societe Anonyme dite: L'Oreal. Invention is credited to Gregoire Kalopissis, Paul Roussopoulos, Charles Zviak.
United States Patent |
3,768,490 |
Kalopissis , et al. |
October 30, 1973 |
**Please see images for:
( Certificate of Correction ) ** |
PERMANENTLY WAVING AND PERMANENTLY SETTING OF HAIR
Abstract
Process for permanently waving hair and permanently setting hair
which inclides the steps of subjecting hair on rollers and applying
a self neutralizing composition containing in mixture a thiol
selected from the group consisting of: thioglycerol, thioglycolic
acid, dimercapto-adipic acid, dimercapto-1,4 butanediol-2,3 and
thiolactic acid, and a disulfide, aid disulfide being
dithiodiglycerol, or dithiodiglycolic acid only when the thiol is
thioglycolic acid, and wherein the amount of thiol is preferably
about 2 - 5 percent weight of the composition and wherein the
numerical ratio of the disulfide groups to thiol groups is greater
than 1,5, or greater than 2 when the thiol is thioglycolic acid and
the disulfide is dithiodiglycolic acid.
Inventors: |
Kalopissis; Gregoire (Paris,
FR), Roussopoulos; Paul (Paris, FR), Zviak;
Charles (Franconville, FR) |
Assignee: |
Societe Anonyme dite: L'Oreal
(Paris, FR)
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Family
ID: |
22831683 |
Appl.
No.: |
05/222,299 |
Filed: |
January 31, 1972 |
Related U.S. Patent Documents
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Application
Number |
Filing Date |
Patent Number |
Issue Date |
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56136 |
Jul 6, 1970 |
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475890 |
Jul 29, 1965 |
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14757 |
Feb 25, 1970 |
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508383 |
Nov 17, 1965 |
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Current U.S.
Class: |
132/203; 132/206;
424/70.5 |
Current CPC
Class: |
A61Q
5/04 (20130101); A61K 8/46 (20130101); A61K
2800/59 (20130101) |
Current International
Class: |
A45D
7/00 (20060101); A45d 007/00 () |
Field of
Search: |
;132/7 ;424/72,71 |
References Cited
[Referenced By]
U.S. Patent Documents
Foreign Patent Documents
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810,355 |
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Mar 1959 |
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GB |
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1,336,311 |
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Jul 1963 |
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FR |
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Primary Examiner: Mancene; Louis G.
Assistant Examiner: McNeill; Gregory E.
Parent Case Text
CROSS REFERENCE TO RELATED APPLICATIONS
This application is a continuation-in-part of Ser. No. 56,136 filed
July 6, 1970, and Ser. No. 14,757 filed Feb. 25, 1970, which are
continuations of applications Ser. Nos. 475,890 and 508,383
respectively filed July 29, 1965, and Nov. 17, 1965.
Claims
What is claimed is:
1. A process which produces a permanent deformation of the hair
wherein:
the hair is subjected to mechanical deformation and treated with a
sufficient amount of self-neutralizing composition containing in
aqueous or hydroalcoholic solution, a mixture of:
a thiol with a concentration of 2 to 5 percent, said thiol being
selected from the group consisting of: thioglycerol, thioglycolic
acid, dimercapto-adipic acid, dimercapto-1,4 butanediol-2,3, and
thiolactic acid; and
a disulfide, said disulfide being dithiodiglycerol, the numerical
ratio of the disulfide groups to the thiol groups being greater
than 1,5 and said composition having a pH contained between 8,5 and
10;
the composition is left to set for a period of time between 5 and
30 minutes;
the mechanical deformation is relieved; and
the hair is rinsed.
2. A process which produces a permanent deformation of the hair
wherein:
the hair is subjected to mechanical deformation and treated with a
sufficient amount of a self-neutralizing composition containing in
aqueous or hydroalcoholic solution, a mixture of:
2 to 5 percent of thioglycolic acid, and
dithiodiglycolic acid,
the numerical ratio of the disulfide groups to the thiol groups
being greater than 2 and said composition having a pH of 8,5 and
10;
the composition is left to react during a period of time contained
between 5 and 30 minutes;
mechanical deformation is relieved; and
the hair is rinsed.
3. A process according to claim 2, wherein the hair is saturated
with the composition before it is subjected to mechanical
deformation.
4. A process according to claim 2, wherein the mechanical
deformation is produced by rollers of 8 to 10 mm. in diameter.
5. A process according to claim 2, wherein mechanical deformation
is produced by combing and the composition is applied in the form
of a cream.
6. A process which produces permanent setting of the hair
wherein:
the hair is set on rollers of 15 to 20 mm. in diameter, and treated
with a sufficient amount of a self-neutralizing composition
containing, in aqueous or hydroalcoholic solution, a mixture
of:
a thiol having a concentration between 2 and 5 percent, said thiol
being selected from the group consisting of: thioglycerol,
thioglycolic acid, dimercapto-adipic acid, dimercapto-1,4
butanediol-2,3, and thiolactic acid, and
a disulfide, said disulfide being dithiodiglycerol, the numerical
ratio of the disulfide groups to the thiol groups being greater
than 1,5, and said composition having a pH between 8,5 and 10;
the composition is left to react during a period of time contained
between 5 and 30 minutes;
the hair, still on rollers, is rinsed; and
the hair is dried by heat externally provided.
7. A process which produces permanent setting of the hair
wherein:
the hair is rolled on curlers of about 15 to 20 mm. in diameter,
and treated with a sufficient amount of a self-neutralizing
composition containing in aqueous or hydroalcoholic solution a
mixture of:
2to 5 percent of thioglycolic acid, and
dithiodiglycolic acid with a numerical ratio of the disulfide
groups to the thiol groups being greater than 2, and the said
composition having a pH between 8,5 and 10.;
the composition is left to react during a period of time contained
between 5 and 30 minutes;
the hair, still on rollers, is rinsed; and
the hair is dried by heat externally provided.
8. A process according to claim 7, wherein:
the hair is rinsed after the standing period of 5 to 30 minutes;
and
the hair is saturated by an aqueous, or hydroalcoholic solution
containing a resin.
Description
BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION
It is common knowledge that hair waving can be done in three ways,
namely:
The process of permanent deformation of the hair;
The process of simple setting; and
The process of permanent setting.
A. Permanent Deformation of the Hair (Permanent waving)
The permanent deformation of the hair conventionally includes the
following steps:
1. Rolling the hair on permanent-wave rollers of relatively small
diameter, for example 8 to 10 mm.
2. Saturating the hair with a so-called "reduction" agent, such as
a thiol. It should be noted, however, that the saturation of the
hair with the reduction agent can be done before rolling the hair
on the permanent-wave rollers.
3. Rinsing the hair, still on rollers (Optional).
4. Saturating the hair, still on permanent-wave rollers, with a
"neutralizing" or "oxidizing" agent, such as a solution of hydrogen
peroxide.
5. Removing the permanent-wave rollers and rinsing the hair.
By this process of permanent deformation of the hair, stable and
durable curls are produced called "permanent" which are not
affected by atmospheric humidity or even by shampooing.
B. Simple Setting.
The conventional process of simple setting includes the following
steps:
1. Saturating the hair with a hair setting lotion which can be
either natural water, or a water-based solution, or a resin-based
hydroalcoholic solution.
2. Rolling the hair on rollers of 15 to 30 mm. in diameter.
3. Drying the hair, still on rollers.
By this process a temporary wave is obtained which may last for a
few days, but which is not designated by the term "permanent wave,"
because shampooing washes away the wave.
C. Permanent Setting.
The conventional process of permanent setting is, in fact, a
compromise between the permanent deformation process and the simple
setting process.
The conventional process of permanent setting includes the
following steps:
1. Rolling the hair on rollers of about 15 to 20 mm. in
diameter.
2. Saturating the hair with a "reducing" agent. As in the process
of permanent deformation, the hair can be saturated before it is
rolled on the rollers.
3. Rinsing (Optional).
4. Saturating the hair, still on rollers, with a neutralizing or
oxidizing agent.
5. Rinsing the hair, still on rollers.
6. Drying the hair, still on rollers, after it has been eventually
saturated with a setting solution, either a water-based solution or
a resin-based hydroalcoholic solution.
By this process a permanent setting is obtained which, compared to
process B, has the advantage of giving the hair a relatively stable
wave which shampooing will not wash out, but which is less durable
than the wave obtained in permanent waving.
The process of permanent setting makes use of compounds similar to
those employed for permanent deformation of the hair, but generally
less concentrated; moreover, the diameter of the rollers used is
greater than that of the rollers used in permanent waving; and,
finally, as in the process for simply setting, the hair, still on
rollers, is allowed to dry.
As can be readily observed, the process of permanent deformation of
the hair, as well as the process of permanent setting, comprises a
number of steps which present numerous inconveniences.
Indeed, the fact that two different solutions must be applied one
after the other, each having been left to stand from 15 to 20
minutes, notwithstanding the necessity of separate rinsings,
constitutes operational complications.
Moreover, the step called "neutralization" or "oxidation" is a
particularly difficult one, because the oxidizing agent penetrates
the hair only with difficulty. Care must be taken not to use too
much of this liquid which is slightly corrosive, lest it touch the
scalp and damage the person's skin.
It must be noted, however, that certain attempts have been made to
accomplish the so-called neutralization or oxidation step by
restoring to the mere oxidizing action of the oxygen in the
air.
By resorting to this modified process, however, a period of 5 to 8
hours is necessary if satisfactory results are to be obtained. The
hair, constrained in the style that one wishes to obtain, needs
that long exposure to the oxygen of the air in order to obtain the
desired effect.
In order to simplify these operations, the applicants have sought
to develop a process whereby the application of one and only one
solution would produce simultaneously the results of the step
called reduction and that called neutralization or oxidation.
A priori, such a simplification would appear difficult to realize:
the process of permanent reduction of the hair is based on the
opening of the cystine bridges by means of a reducer followed by
the reconstituting of the same by means of an oxidizing agent. In
order to produce deformation in a single step, it is therefore
necessary to mix two substances -- one a reducer, the other an
oxidizer -- which tend naturally to react on each other and which,
at first, would seem to cancel out each other's action on the
hair.
The applicants realized, however, that during the first step it was
not necessary to open all the --S--S--bridges before proceeding to
close them, after having provoked the relative displacement of the
keratinic chains. It would suffice to provoke a continual opening
and closing of a certain number of keratinic bridges, during which
time the hair would be kept in a sufficient state of deformation to
provoke the slipping of the keratinic chains along with the opening
of their --S--S--bridges.
The present invention is therefore as relevant to a new process of
permanent deformation of the hair as it is to a process of
permanent setting, both of these processes being effected in a
single step.
According to the invention, in order to effect these two processes,
one would utilize one and only one composition containing a mixture
of certain thiols and certain disulfides in well determined
proportions, so that a genuine self-neutralizing composition is
obtained which makes possible in one operation the permanent
deformation as well as the permanent setting of the hair, a process
which until now required two steps, namely, the so-called reduction
step and the so-called neutralization or oxidation step.
Compositions based on thiols and disulfides of various kinds have
already been described in U.S. Pat. Nos. 2,719,813 and
2,719,814.
It should be noted, however, that in both of these patents, the use
of such compositions is recommended in the first step only of the
permanent deformation of hair, the presence of the disulfide being
justified by the fact that the latter compounded with the thiol
diminishes the harsh effects of the thiol.
In fact, it is known that thiols have certain secondary effects
causing damage to hair keratin.
To offset the harmful action of the thiols, it is recommended in
the American patents to use thiol along with a disulfide in a
numerical ratio of the disulfide groups to the thiol groups
contained between 0.1 to 1.5. In these numerical ratios, the
disulfides mitigate the harsh effects of the thiols without
removing the reducing power of the latter.
According to these patents, it is specified, moreover, that a
numerical ratio of the disulfide groups to the thiol groups in
excess of 1.5 precludes curls of superior quality, whatever the
duration of the application.
Consequently, for the first step in permanent waving it is
recommended to contain the numerical ratios of the disulfide groups
to the thiol groups between 0.25 and 0.75.
Finally, it is important to specify that, according to the two
patents, the second step called neutralization or oxidation is
effected either by means of an oxidizing compound or by simple
exposure of the hair to the oxygen to the atmospheric air.
These two patents contribute progress to the conventional process
of permanent deformation, since they permit elimination of the
harshness of the thiols, but they give neither solution nor
insights into the problem caused by the permanent deformation of
the hair in one step by means of a self-neutralizing
composition.
SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION
As has been explained above, the present invention offers a
solution to the problem causing the steps of permanent deformation
and permanent setting of the hair, because it allows completion of
these two processes in only one step.
The object of the present invention is to provide a new process to
effect the permanent deformation of the hair in a single step, said
process being characterized by the following:
the hair subjected to a sufficient mechanical deformation is
treated by means of a composition containing in mixture from 2 to 5
percent of a thiol taken in the group constituted by thioglycerol,
thioglycolic acid, dimercapto-adipic acid, dimercapto-1,4
butanediol-2,3 and thiolactic acid, and a disulfide which is
dithiodiglycerol. The numerical ratio of the disulfide groups to
the thiol groups is greater than 1,5 and the said composition has a
pH between 8,5 and 10.;
the composition mentioned above is permitted to take effect during
a period of time from 5 to 30 minutes;
the hair is rinsed; and
the means affording the mechanical deformation is then removed.
According to a variation of the present invention, the permanent
deformation of the hair can also be accomplished in one step, as
indicated above, by using a self-neutralizing composition, a
composition containing a mixture of 2 to 5 percent of thioglycolic
acid for thiol and dithiodiglycolic acid for disulfide, the
numerical ratio of the disulfide groups to the thiol groups being
greater than 2, and the composition having a pH contained between
8.5 and 10.
The numerical ratios of the disulfide groups to the thiol groups
which in the first case must be greater than 1.5 and in the second
greater than 2, are critical ratios, that is to say, below these
limits no deformation is obtained, or only a deformation of
inferior quality which in no case can be considered permanent
according to the criteria generally accepted. Among these criteria
the index of fixation, "If," is particularly selective, and it is
generally accepted that permanent waving is produced when this
index is equal to or less than 0.1. By Index of Fixation is meant
the following ratio:
If = (T3 - T2)/(T1 - T2)
It is known that the mechanical behavior of a hair can be
represented for rextensions less than 25 percent by the following
curve which expresses the reactive strength of the hair against the
imposed extension. ##SPC1##
The calculation of the Index of Fixation consists therefore in
measuring the force T corresponding to the area of plasticity of
the hair, hence the minimum force allowing the hair to be subjected
to a deformation greater than 2 percent. This force is
measured:
before the treatment, and this gives the value T.sub.1 ;
after the treatment, with the help of a self-neutralizing
composition, and this gives the value T.sub.2, and finally;
after the total fixation, that is to say, after the reconstruction
of the ensemble of bridges --S--S-- of the hair keratin, by means
of the hydrogen peroxide, and this gives the value T.sub.3.
The thiol concentrate is not exactly critical, but it has been
established that such a concentrate from 2 to 5 percent brings
about compositions possessing the required fluidity. In fact, some
concentrates stronger in thiol would produce strong disulfide
concentrates which would produce an ill effect on the adequate
consistency of the compositions.
Likewise, the range of pH is not, strictly speaking, of a critical
nature; it should be noted, however, that poor self-neutralization
occurs when the controlled potency drops below 8.5. A controlled
potency of 10. is generally recommended for capillary compositions
so that there is no incompatibility between the scalp and the
composition.
According to the invention, in the process of permanent deformation
of the hair, deformation results either in waves or in
straightening. To obtain a permanent wave, the mechanical device
used is the permanent wave roller having a diameter of about 8 to
10 mm.
On the other hand, to obtain straightening, mechanical deformation
is obtained by combing and by the application of a composition
having a cream-like consistency, and this makes it possible to keep
the hair in the desired configuration.
According to the invention, and as in the classical procedure for
permanent deformation of the hair, the self-neutralizing
compositions such as they are defined above, must be applied either
before or after using the mechanical device which brings about the
mechanical deformation. After the waiting time of 5 to 30 minutes,
as indicated above, the mechanical device is removed and the hair
is rinsed.
By this process, according to the invention of permanent
deformation of the hair, curls of excellent quality are obtained
which resist atmospheric humidity and subsequent shampoos.
PREFERRED EMBODIMENTS
The object of the present invention also includes a process of
permanent setting characterized by the fact that:
the hair, subjected to a slight mechanical deformation by means of
15 to 20 mm. rollers, is treated with a composition containing a
mixture of 2 to 5 percent thiol taken from the group consisting of
thioglycerol, thioglycolic acid, dimercaptoadipic acid,
dimercapto-1,4 butanediol 2,3 and thiolactic acid, and a disulfide,
the disulfide being dithiodiglycerol. The numerical ratio of the
disulfide groups to the thiol groups is greater than 1.5 and the
aforesaid composition has a pH between 8,5 and 10.;
the aforementioned composition is left to react during a 5 to 30
minute period of time;
the hair is eventually rinsed; and
the hair, still on rollers, is dried by heat externally
provided.
As in the process of permanent deformation of the hair, it is also
possible, according to the invention, to utilize a composition
containing a mixture of 2 to 5 percent thioglycolic acid (for
thiol) and of dithiodiglycolic acid (for disulfide), the numerical
ratio of the disulfide groups to the thiol groups being greater
than 2 and the composition having a pH between 8,5 and 10.
According to this permanent setting process, beautiful waves are
produced, identical to those obtained by the classical process
involving two steps.
As can be ascertained, the self-neutralizing compositions used in
the process producing permanent deformation of the hair and the
process of permanent setting are of the same kind and therefore are
judged by the same criteria.
In a variation of the permanent setting process, it is possible,
after rinsing the hair, to apply to it a water-based or a
resin-based hydroalcoholic setting lotion.
Compositions producing simultaneously permanent deformation and
permanent setting of the hair can appear in various forms. It is
preferable, however, to utilize water-based or hydroalcoholic
solutions (ethanol water, for example) which can contain other
ingredients, such as perfumes, swelling agents, etc. To obtain
straightening of the hair, it is preferable to use creamy-textured
compositions which allow the hair to be held in the desired
configuration.
Finally, it should be noted that when, in the processes of the
invention, compositions are used that are formed by pairing the
following thiol/disulfide: thioglycerol/dithiodiglycerol, and
thioglycolic acid/dithiodiglycolic acid, the required quantity of
disulfide can be obtained at the precise moment of application by
obtaining the oxidation of a predetermined quantity of surplus
thiol in such a way as to obtain in the first case a ratio of the
disulfide groups to the thiol groups greater than 1,5, and in the
second case, a ratio greater than 2.
Among the oxidizing agents that produce in situ the disulfides
starting from corresponding thiols, the following can be mentioned:
oxidized water (hydrogen peroxide), sodium iodate, sodium
periodate, sodium bromate, etc.
In order to make the invention more readily understandable, several
examples of the two processes according to the invention are
described below by way of illustration.
Example 1
To obtain a permanent deformation of hair, a solution composed of
the following ingredients is prepared at the time of
application:
thioglycerol 5 g dithiodiglycerol 15,85 g ammonia, qsp pH 9,5 urea
4 g mono-oleate of polyoxyethylenated sor- bitan 0,4 g water qsp
100 g
Each strand of hair is saturated with this solution and set on
rollers of 8 to 10 mm. in diameter. When all the hair has been set
on rollers, it is again saturated with the same solution. The head
is covered with a cap, and a period of 20 to 25 minutes is allowed
to elapse.
The hair, still on rollers, is then abundantly and carefully rinsed
with lukewarm water; the rollers are taken off and the hair is
rinsed again.
The curl thus obtained is well set and soft; it lends itself to
pleasant styling, and the condition of the hair remains good. After
6 weeks, no loss of curl is apparent.
Example 2
In order to obtain a permanent deformation of hair, a solution
containing the following ingredients is prepared at the time of
application:
thioglycerol 4 g dithiodiglycerol 17 g mono-ethanolamine, qsp pH
9,2 urea 4 g mono-oleate of polyoxyethylenated sor- bitan 0,4 g or
Tween 80 (d=1,06-1,10, viscosity 230-430 centistokes) water qsp 100
g
After having shampooed and sponged the hair, the hair is set on
rollers of 8 to 10 mm. in diameter and saturated with the
aforementioned solution. The head is covered with a cap, and a 15
to 20 minute waiting period is allowed to lapse.
The rollers are then removed, and the hair is rinsed abundantly
with water.
The curl thus obtained is deeply set and of beautiful styling which
remains unaltered for several weeks.
Example 3
To obtain the straightening of naturally frizzy hair, the following
composition is prepared, in a creamy texture, by mixing the
following ingredients:
Wax 7 g (made of a mixture of 30 percent cetylic alcohol and 70
percent stearylic alcohol, this mixture being oxyethylenated by 30
moles of ethylene oxide per mole of alcohol in the mixture)
thioglycerol 2 g bromide of trimethyl cetyl ammonium 0,2 g
dithiodiglycerol 6,35 g ammonia, qsp pH 9,5 perfume 0,3 g water qsp
100 g
The cream thus obtained is applied to the hair to be straightened
strand by strand. Care should be taken to mix the cream well into
each strand, so that it be well saturated.
The hair is then combed backward for a few moments, so that the
consistency of the cream will keep the hair well saturated while
the action of the composition is allowed to take place.
After about 15 minutes the hair is carefully rinsed so as to
eliminate the cream while keeping the hair as much as possible in a
stretched position.
The hair which, before the treatment, was tightly curled and frizzy
has become smooth without being stiff.
The hair, however, now has a soft wide wave, while its texture has
remained in excellent condition.
The ends have remained in good condition, and no cracking has been
noted in the area of the roots.
Example 4
To obtain a permanent deformation of the hair, a solution composed
of the following ingredients is prepared at the time of the
application:
thioglycolic acid 3,5 g dithiodiglycerol 16 g ammonia, qsp pH 9,5
urea 4 g mono-oleate of polyoxyethylenated sorbitan 0,4 g water qsp
100 g
The hair is saturated with the aforementioned solution, and it is
set on rollers of about 8 to 10 mm. in diameter.
To complete saturation of the hair, the rolled strands of hair are
saturated again with the same solution, and the hair is covered
with a cap.
After waiting for about 15 minutes, the rollers are removed, the
hair is rinsed very rapidly with water and sponged with a
towel.
The result is a very beautiful curl, soft to the touch. The curl is
durable and no change is observed in the wave even after a lapse of
4 to 5 weeks.
Example 5
To obtain a permanent deformation of the hair, a solution composed
of the following ingredients is prepared at the time of
application:
thioglycolic acid 2 g dithiodiglycerol 23,2 g mono-ethanolamine,
qsp pH 9,0 diethylene triamino pentacetic acid 0,1 g ethanol 5 g
water qsp 100 g
After shampooing and sponging the hair, strand by strand the hair
is saturated with the aformentioned solution and set on rollers of
about 8 to 10 mm. in diameter.
After the rollers are all in, the rolled strands of hair are
saturated once more with the same solution, and the head is covered
with a cap. A waiting period of 20 to 25 minutes is allowed to take
place.
The hair is then thoroughly rinsed with tepid water, and the
rollers are removed. The hair is rinsed one more time.
The curl thus obtained is well set and soft; the styling is
pleasant and the condition of the hair has remained good.
After a lapse of 6 weeks, no loss of curl is noted.
Example 6
To obtain a permanent deformation in ordinary hair, a solution
composed of the following ingredients is prepared at the time of
application:
dimercapto-adipic acid 4 g dithiodiglycerol 12 g ammonia, qsp pH 10
urea 10 g water qsp 100 g
This solution is applied as indicated in Example 5, with the
difference that the time of application is reduced to about 15 to
20 minutes. A good permanent wave of the hair is thus obtained.
Example 7
To obtain a permanent deformation in bleached hair, a solution
containing the following ingredients is prepared at the time of
application:
dimercapto-adipic acid 3 g dithiodiglycerol 15 g mono-ethanolamine,
qsp pH 9,0 urea 4 g monoleate of polyoxyethylenated sorbitan 0,4 g
water qsp 100 g
By following the same operational mode as that described in Example
2, it is obtained after the last rinsing shiny hair and pleasant to
the touch.
The curl thus obtained is deep, has beautiful styling and does not
alter for several weeks.
Example 8
To obtain, according to the invention, a straightening of naturally
frizzy hair, a creamy composition is prepared from the following
ingredients:
thioglycolic acid 3 g dithiodiglycolic acid 18 g mono-ethanolamine,
qsp pH 9,0 wax 7 g (made of a mixture of 30 percent cetylic alcohol
and 70 percent of stearylic alcohol; this mixture is oxyethylenated
by means of 33 moles of ethylene oxide per mole of alcohol in the
mixture) bromide of trimethylcetylammonium 0,2 g perfume 0,3 g
water 100 g
This cream is applied in the same operational mode described in
Example 3. Excellent results are likewise obtained, and the hair is
left with a very wide wave.
Example 9
To obtain, according to the invention, a permanent deformation of
the hair, a solution is prepared at the moment of the application
containing the following ingredients:
dimercapto-1,4 butanediol-2,3 2,5 g dithiodiglycerol 15 g ammonia,
qsp pH 9,7 urea 10 g water qsp 100 g
This solution is applied in the same operational mode as that
described in Example 1. Excellent results are likewise obtained,
and the hair presents a well set and soft curl even after a lapse
of 6 weeks.
Example 10
To obtain a permanent deformation of the hair, at the moment of
application a solution is prepared containing the following
ingredients:
thiolactic acid 3 g dithiodiglycerol 15,2 g ammonia, qsp pH 9,4
urea 10 g water qsp 100 g
After shampooing and sponging the hair, the operator saturates each
strand of hair with the prementioned solution and sets it on roller
of 8 to 10 mm. in diameter.
When all the rollers are on, the hair is saturated once more with
the same solution. The head is covered with a cap, and a period of
20 to 25 minutes is allowed to elapse.
The hair is then rinsed carefully and thoroughly with lukewarm
water; the curlers are removed, and the hair is rinsed again.
The curl thus obtained is well set and soft; it presents pleasant
styling, and the condition of the hair remains good.
After a lapse of 5 to 6 weeks, no loss of curl is noted.
Example 11
To obtain a permanent deformation of the hair, a solution is
prepared at the time of application. The following ingredients are
included:
thiolactic acid 5 g dithiodiglycerol 30 g mono-ethanolamine, qsp pH
8,7 diethylene triamino pentacetic acid 0,1 g ethanol 5 g water qsp
100 g
This solution is applied as indicated in Example 10, with the
difference that the waiting time is reduced to 15 to 20 minutes. A
good permanent wave of the hair is thus obtained.
Example 12
To obtain a permanent deformation in normal hair, a solution
containing the following ingredients is prepared at time of
usage:
thioglycolic acid 5 g dithiodiglycolic acid 25 g ammonia, qsp pH
9,3 urea 10 g water qsp 100 g
This solution is applied as indicated in Example 4, and a good
permanent wave is obtained.
Example 13
To obtain, according to the invention, the straightening of
naturally frizzy hair, a cream compounded as follows is
prepared:
thioglycerol 3 g dithiodiglycerol 13 g monoethanolamine qsp pH 9,5
wax composed of a mixture of: 30 percent cetylic alcohol and 70
percent stearylic alcohol, this mixture being oxyethylenated by 33
moles of ethylene oxide per mole of alcohol in the mixture 7 g
ammonium cetyl trimethyl bromide 0,2 g perfume 0,3 g water qsp 100
g
This cream, applied in the same conditions as in Example 3,
produces an excellent straightening of frizzy hair. The hair now
appears with a slight wave.
Example 14
To obtain a permanent setting according to the invention, a
solution containing the following ingredients must be prepared:
thioglycerol 5 g dithiodiglycerol 16,85 g ammonia, qsp pH 9,5 urea
10 g water qsp 100 g
The hair is then saturated and set on rollers of about 15 to 20 mm.
in diameter. The solution is left to react during 15 to 20 minutes.
The hair, still on rollers, is then rinsed and dried by heat
externally produced. After the rollers are removed and the hair is
combed out, a very satisfactory coiffure is obtained.
Example 15
To obtain a permanent setting according to the invention, a
composition is first prepared by mixing the following
ingredients:
thioglycerol 5 g dithiodiglycerol 40 g monoethanolamine qsp pH 8,5
diethylene triamino pentacetic acid 0,1 g ethanol 5 g water qsp 100
g
The hair is saturated with the solution thus obtained, then set on
rollers of about 15 to 20 mm. in diameter. After a setting period
of about 15 to 20 minutes, the hair is carefully rinsed and then
dried by means of heat externally produced.
After the rollers have been removed and the hair has been combed
out, an excellent coiffure is obtained.
Example 16
To obtain a permanent setting, a composition is first prepared by
mixing the following ingredients:
thioglycolic acid 2 g dithiodiglycolic acid 20 g ammonia, qsp pH 10
urea 10 g water qsp 100 g
This solution is applied to the hair, strand by strand, and the
hair is set on rollers having 15 to 20 mm. in diameter, rolling
each saturated strand in turn. Time of setting, 15 to 20
minutes.
Drying is the next step by means of a classical dryer.
After the hair is dried out, the rollers are removed and combing
takes place.
The hair has much body and very good resiliency.
Example 17
To obtain a permanent setting, according to the invention, a
composition is first prepared by mixing the following
ingredients:
thioglycolic acid 5 g dithiodiglycerol 35 g mono-ethanolamine, qsp
pH 8,5 triamino diethylene pentacetic acid 0,1 g ethanol 5 g water
qsp 100 g
The hair is saturated, strand by strand, and is set on rollers of
about 15 to 20 mm. in diameter. Setting on the rollers takes place
immediately after each strand is saturated with the solution.
After a period of setting of about 15 to 20 minutes, the hair is
rinsed very carefully. The next step is drying, heat being produced
externally.
After the hair is thoroughly dried, the rollers are removed, and
the hair is combed out. Excellent resiliency of the strands is
obtained. The styling effect produced at this time lasts, and the
hair is pleasant to behold and to touch.
Example 18
To obtain a permanent setting according to the invention, a
composition is prepared by mixing the following ingredients:
dimercaptoadipic acid 4 g dithiodiglycerol 12 g ammonia, qsp pH 10
urea 10 g water qsp 100 g
By proceeding as indicated in the preceding Example, a permanent
setting of very good appearance is obtained.
Example 19
To obtain a permanent setting according to the invention, a
composition is prepared by mixing the following ingredients:
dimercapto-1,4 butanediol-2,3 2,5 g dithiodiglycerol 15 g ammonia,
qsp pH 9,7 urea 10 g water qsp 100 g
By operating as in Example 17, an excellent permanent setting is
obtained whereby the hair appears with a very good wave.
Example 20
To obtain a permanent setting according to the invention, a
composition is prepared by mixing the following ingredients:
thiolactic acid 2 g dithiodiglycerol 20 g ammonia, qsp pH 10
triamino diethylene pentacetic acid 0,1 g ethanol 5 g water qsp 100
g
By operating as in Example 15 an excellent permanent setting is
obtained. The styling effect produced at this time lasts, and the
hair is pleasant to behold and to touch.
Example 21
To obtain a permanent deformation of hair in accordance with the
invention the two following compositions are prepared:
Composition A thioglycolic acid 28,25 g monoethanolamine qsp ... pH
9,6 perfume 0,4 g water qsp 100 g Composition B aqueous solution of
hydrogen peroxide 17,2 volumes.
At the time of use compositions A and B are mixed volume to volume.
After one minute the internal temperature was about 70.degree.C and
after 10 minutes about 43.degree.C.
After the 10 minutes laps, analysis of the mixture give the
following figures:
thioglycolic acid 2 g % dithiodiglycolic acid 14 g % pH = 9,5 By
using this composition as described in example 10 an excellent curl
is obtained which does not loose even after 6 weeks.
Example 22
To obtain a permanent deformation of hair according to the
invention the two following compositions are prepared:
Composition A
thioglycolic acid 20 g ammonia, qsp to neutralize monoethanolamine,
qsp pH 9,5 perfume 0,3 g water qsp 100 g
Composition B
aqueous solution of hydrogen peroxide 10 volumes. At the time of
use composition A and B are mixed volume to volume. From time 0 to
10 minutes the internal temperature figures are:
time 0 .fwdarw. 21.degree.C
30 sec .fwdarw. 41.degree.C
1 mn .fwdarw. 44.degree.C
2 mn .fwdarw. 42.5.degree.C
3 mn .fwdarw. 41.degree.C
4 mn .fwdarw. 39.degree.C
5 mn .fwdarw. 37.degree.C
6 mn .fwdarw. 36.degree.C
10 mn .fwdarw. 32.degree.C
After the 10 minutes laps, analysis of the mixture give the
following figures:
thioglycolic acid 2 g % dithiodiglycolic acid 8 g % pH = 9,4
by using this composition according to Example 1 a perfect
permanent wave is obtained.
* * * * *