Article Of Clothing And Method Of Making Same

Abstract

An article of clothing in the nature of skirts, slacks, or shorts including a main body of material adapted to encircle the hips of the wearer and having a waistband at the top of the main body of material adapted to fit snugly around the hips of the wearer immediately below the waistline wherein the waistband comprises an elongate band of outerwear material having upper and lower edges folded inwardly to form hems embracing a band of relatively heavy stiffener material, a row of stitching securing each hem edge, and a strip of elastic material stitched into the upper hem in stretched condition, so that when the elastic material is relaxed, it contracts the upper edge of the waistband to form a generally conical shape adapted to fit the similar shape of the hips adjacent the waistline. The method of and the apparatus for making the waistband and simultaneously attaching it to the main body of material are also disclosed.

Description

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION

In recent times, modern stylists have developed various articles of clothing such as skirts, slacks and shorts, and the latter two particularly, which are relatively short in waist length and which are adapted to hang on the hips of the wearer or give the impression of hanging on the hips of the wearer, in contrast to other styles in which the waist length of the clothing article is relatively longer and the waistband is relatively higher. As a result, the waistband in the modern articles is disposed relatively low and encircles a portion of the body which often tapers upwardly from a relatively large hip measurement toward a relatively smaller waist measurement. Thus, the waistband has in a sense become a hipband, and in order to provide a close fit of the clothing, it is desirable to provide a taper in the garment adjacent the waistline in the nature of a conical formation.

In clothing articles of the type described, the main body of material below the waistband is often tapered inwardly toward the upper end of the article. The tapering sometimes is provided by pleats and sometimes may be provided by means of darts, but the problem of tapering the waistband is a different matter. In many clothes in the past, the waistband has been set high enough on the body that it may fit a portion of the body having a substantially uniform measurement. However, in some current styles which contemplate that the top of the garment will be worn lower on the body, sometimes hanging on the hips at an area where the waistband is associated with a tapering portion of the body, it is desirable for the waistband to be tapered, or otherwise the upper edge of the waistband may fit loosely, or if worn beneath a belt it may require folding and gathering which may be both uncomfortable and unsightly. In view of the construction of the waistband with material extending longitudinally around the upper edge of the main body of the garment, it is difficult to provide taper for the reason that the waistband does not readily admit of construction with pleats or darts.

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION

It is a general object of the present invention to provide an article of clothing in the nature of skirts, slacks or shorts having a tapered configuration at the upper portion thereof including a waistband which has its length extending around the article to encircle the wearer adjacent the waistline and which has a generally conical shape adapted to hug the similarly shaped portion of the body which is below the waistline.

In order to construct the waistband with an upward and inward taper in the nature of a generally conical configuration, the upper edge of the waistband is built with an elastic strip which is stitched into place with the elastic strip under tension which stretches the stip beyond its normal relaxed condition, so that when the tension is removed and the strip is relaxed, the upper edge of the waistband contracts in a manner which provides a generally conical shape by crowding the weave of the material without creating wrinkles or pleats in the outerwear material in the waistband.

In a waistband made according to the invention, the upper edge is formed with an elongate band of outerwear material having an inwardly turned hem incorporating a strip of elastic material which is stitched into the hem with the elastic material in stretched condition, so that when the elastic material is relaxed, it contracts the upper edge of the waistband in a manner such that the waistband is tapered inwardly from the bottom edge toward the top edge.

More specifically, the waistband includes an elongate band of outerwear material having upper and lower edges folded inwardly to form hems embracing a relatively heavy stiffener material, a row of stitching at the upper edge of the waistband securing the hem and securing the elastic material and stiffener material to the outerwear material, and a row of stitching along the bottom edge securing the hem and securing the outerwear material and stiffener material to the upper edge of the main body of the skirt, slacks or shorts.

If desired, the stiffener material may comprise a relatively heavy web of woven material which is elastic longitudinally.

In the preferred embodiment illustrated, the inside of the waistband is faced with a band of lining material having hems turned outwardly at the upper edge and the lower edge and secured by the stitching previously mentioned, in an arrangement where the lower hem of the outerwear material is disposed outwardly of the main body of the article of clothing, and the lower hem of the lining material is disposed inwardly of the upper edge of the main body of the article.

BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS

FIG. 1 is an illustration of the upper portion of an article of clothing such as skirts, slacks or shorts embodying a waistband made according to the principles of the present invention;

FIG. 2 is a perspective view of a sewing table with a sewing machine and also means for guiding waistband materials to a sewing station where the waistband is formed and secured to the upper edge of the main body of the material forming the article of clothing;

FIG. 3 is a cross sectional view through the sewing table at the sewing station;

FIG. 4 is a horizontal sectional view taken at about the line 4--4 of FIG. 3;

FIG. 5 is a fragmentary sectional view through the folding structure at about the line 5--5 of FIG. 4; and

FIG. 6 is an enlarged fragmentary view of the finished waistband made according to the present invention.

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE PREFERRED EMBODIMENT

Referring now to the drawings in more detail, FIG. 1 illustrates the upper portion of an article of clothing 10 which may be a skirt, or shorts, or slacks, having a main body of material 11 and a waistband 12 embodying the principles of the present invention.

Referring now to FIGS. 4, 5 and 6, where the details of the waistband construction are illustrated, it should be understood that the main body 11 of the article of clothing is formed at the top edge with a generally circular configuration adapted to encircle the body of the wearer and may or may not include a break in the periphery in the nature of a fly or placket as desired. The inside of the main body of material is lined with a band of facing material 15 which is folded laterally in the middle and disposed inside the garment with the folded edge 16 at the bottom and the free edges 17 at the top. A single row of stitching 18 holds the upper edge 19 of the main body 11. The main body of material 11 may be comprised of any number of woven outerwear materials. Loose weaves, double knits and stretch fabrics are particularly suitable. In order to provide some taper in the main body of material below the waistband as shown in FIG. 1, the material may be slightly gathered as indicated at 20 near the upper edge 19 in a sufficiently small amount that the gathering may be pressed flat, leaving the taper without the appearance of pleats or the like. The facing material 15 may be somewhat lighter weight and may comprise broadcloth or other similar materials.

The waistband comprises an elongate band of outerwear material as at 25 having opposite upper and lower edges folded inwardly to form hems at 26 and 27 which embrace a central inwardly disposed elongate band of stiffener material 29 disposed inside the outerwear material 25 and underneath hems 26 and 27. The lower edge of the outerwear material 25 and the stiffener material 29, in the vicinity of the hem 29, are disposed outside of the upper edge of the main body of material 11.

The inside of the waistband is lined with an elongate band of lining material 30 having upper and lower edges folded outwardly to form hems as at 32 and 34 aligned respectively with the hems 26 and 27 in the outerwear material. The lower edge of the lining material 30 in the vicinity of the hem 34 is disposed inside the upper edge of the main body of material 11. A single row of stitching as at 36 secures the hemmed edge 34 of the lining material 30 to the upper edge of the main body of material 11 and at the same time secures the stiffener material 29 and the outerwear hem 27 to the upper edge of the main body of the garment. A single row of stitching 38 secures the upper hemmed edge 32 of the lining material 30 to the upper hemmed edge 26 of the outerwear material, with the stiffener material 29 inside the hem 26.

In order to provide for taper in the waistband according to the present invention, the upper hem 26 of the outerwear material 25 incorporates a narrow strip of elastic material 40 which is positioned inside the hem 26, disposed inwardly relative to the stiffener material 29 and sewn into position by the row of stitching 38 with the elastic material 49 in stretched condition, so that after the hem is stitched and the tension on the elastic material is relieved, the length of the material is reduced as it returns to its relaxed state. In the process of returning to its relaxed state, the elastic material contracts the other material associated with it, as by crowding the woven strands in a manner such that the upper edge of the waistband has a lesser diameter than the lower edge of the waistband and the waistband assumes a somewhat conical taper from the bottom edge to the top edge, without the need for pleats which would be bulky and uncomfortable in the relatively thick waistband and without the need of darts or the like which would be impractical.

In a preferred garment, the outerwear material 25 is preferably a loosely woven material of a type which is sometimes described as double knit or of a type which may be described as stretch material, though without necessarily incorporating actual strands of rubber or other elastic. In general, the outerwear material is of a weave which is loose enough that after contraction as described above when the elastic strip 40 is relaxed, any gathering of the material in the nature of pleats may be removed by steam ironing so that the tapered configuration is provided without unsightly or uncomfortable gathering. The stiffener material 29 may be of a relatively heavy woven web which gives significant body and strength to the waistband sufficient so as to maintain the integrity and appearance despite subjection of the garment to intensive wear. If desired, the stiffener material may include longitudinal strands which provide elasticity longitudinally. The lining material 30 may be similar to the facing material 15, and even if the stiffener material 29 and the lining material 30 are not of so-called stretch fabrics, it is possible for the elastic strip 40 to educe the length of the upper edge of the waistband significantly relative to the lower edge of the waistband without incorporating pleats or other gatherings and sufficient to be clearly visible to the eye and to be significantly smaller functionally. The elastic strip 40 may comprise a rubber material which is soft and resilient and has significant elastic strength sufficient to contract the upper edge of the waistband as described.

The method of and the apparatus for forming the improved waistband and simultaneously securing the waistband to the main body of the material forming the article of clothing are demonstrated in FIGS. 2, 3, 4 and 5. In particular, it is contemplated that the apparatus may be provided in association with a sewing table 50 having a sewing machine 52 including a reciprocating head 53 adjacent a sewing station with a pair of needles 54 and 55 respectively receiving threads 56 and 57 for forming the lower and upper rows of stitching 36 and 38 as the combined materials in the waistband are fed past the sewing station along with the upper edge of the main body of material 11. In passing through the sewing station, the combined materials are held down by an appropriate foot 59 which is curved upwardly at 60 at the entrance end to admit the advancing materials and which is appropriately apertured at 62 to permit the reciprocating needles 54 and 55 to penetrate the waistband to form the stitching 36 and 38. The sewing machine may be of conventional construction and usually includes a material feeding mechanism indicated generally at 64 beneath the foot 59 adapted to move intermittently in the direction of the advancing material when the needles are retracted and return again to the starting place.

As seen in FIG. 2, the outerwear material 25 is fed to the table 10 from a source beneath the table and advances upwardly to the table, upwardly toward the front edge of the table where it passes through a tensioning device 65 including a plurality of transversely extending wire-like strands 66 where the material passes over one and then under one through a tortuous path which has the effect of retarding advance of the material somewhat, sufficiently to assure that it remains in smooth condition longitudinally as it is assembled with the other materials and advanced through the sewing station. After the tensioning device 65, the material 25 passes through a device 68 for folding the upper and lower hems about the stiffener material 29. The folding device 68 includes an outer folding plate 69 having a central portion disposed beneath a holddown plate or tongue 70. The stiffener material 29 is fed from an overhead roll 72 downwardly toward the entrance to the folding device 68 where the stiffener material is positioned to overlie the outerwear material 25 as the two materials enter the folding device disposed beneath the holddown plate 70 and above the central portion of the folder 69. As seen best at the bottom of FIG. 4, the outerwear material 25 has a substantially greater width than the stiffener material 29 as the two materials enter the folding device. In order to control the lateral edges of the outerwear material to fold it properly into the hems, the folder plate 69 includes lateral edges as at 75 which are turned inwardly to overlie the edges of the outerwear material 25 as the latter enter the folding apparatus. Progressing toward the sewing machine, the overturned edges of the folder are then additionally turned toward the centerline of the path of travel as at 76 in order to turn the edges of the outerwear material to overlie the stiffener material 29, as will be understood on reference to FIGS. 4 and 5.

As the upper hem edge 26 is turned over the stiffener material, the elastic strip 40 is inserted into the hem. As seen in FIG. 2, the elastic material 40 may be supplied from a source beneath the table 50. It is fed upwardly through a tensioning device as at 80 and then to a turning guide 81 on the holddown plate 70. The turning guide 81 functions to direct the leading end of the elastic strip in a direction parallel to the hem edge 26 with the elastic material disposed inside the hem above the stiffener material 29. In order to guide the elastic strip 40 into the hem, a portion of the holddown plate 70 is struck upwardly as at 83, so that the elastic material enters the space between the holddown plate 70 and the supporting portion of the folding plate 69. When the elastic material is gripped in the hem 26 between the holding foot 59 and the feeding device 64, it is sufficiently gripped that tension is applied to stretch the material against the resistance offered by the braking or tensioning device 80.

The device 80 may be of conventional construction and as illustrated includes a base plate 85 over which the material 40 passes and a holddown plate 86 which is vertically movable on a guide 87. The holddown plate 86 is biased toward the support plate 85 by a cup-shaped disc or spring seat 88 which receives the lower end of a coiled compression spring 89. The spring 89 surrounds a central post 90 supported on the guide 87 and threaded at the upper end to recieve a spring adjustment nut 92 and a lock nut 93. In this manner, the tension applied to the elastic material 40 may be varied to assure the material is stretched sufficiently to shrink enough to create the desired taper in the waistband.

The inner liner material 30 is fed from an overhead roll 100 through a folding device 102 which may be similar to that shown at 68, except inverted so that the hem edges 32 and 34 are directed downwardly toward the remaining material. The lining material 30 enters the sewing station beneath the upwardly turned entrance end 60 on the holddown foot 59.

It will be understood that the apparatus described facilitates the forming of the waistband embodying the present invention and simultaneous attachment to the upper edge of the main body of the skirt, slacks or shorts. The outerwear material 25 is folded and advanced simultaneously with the stiffener material 29 as the elastic material 40 is inserted into the upper hem. At the same time, the lining material is folded at the upper and lower edges and advanced toward the sewing station with the upper edge of the main body of the garment disposed between the lower hem of the outerwear material and the lower hem of the lining material. At a single sewing station, both edges of the waistband are secured by two simple rows of stitching which may be of a conventional type. After the waistband passes the sewing station, and the tension on the elastic material 40 is relaxed, the upper edge of the waistband shrinks to produce the desired taper.

Claims

We claim:

1. An article of clothing in the nature of skirts, slacks, or shorts having a main body of material adapted to encircle the lower portion of the body of the wearer and having a waistband at the top of the main body of material adapted to fit around the hips of the wearer adjacent the waistline, said waistband comprising an elongate band of loosely woven outerwear material having its upper edge folded over inwardly and stitched longitudinally in a hem and its lower edge attached to the top of the main body, and a strip of elastic material extending along the hem at the upper edge of the elongate band and stitched thereto while stretched, so that when the elastic strip is relaxed it contracts the weave along the upper edge of the band without contracting the material along the lower edge, forming a generally conical upleated shape in the waistband adapted to hug the hips at the waistline.

2. An article as defined in claim 1, wherein the elastic material has a width approximately equal to the width of the hem, and is disposed inside the hem, and the band has a single row of stitching securing the hem and the elastic strip.

3. An article as defined in claim 1, including an elongate band of lining material along the inside of the waistband having its upper edge attached to the upper edge of the outerwear band, and its lower edge attached to the upper edge of the main body of the garment.

4. An article as defined in claim 1, including an elongate band of stiffener material along the inside of the waistband, having its upper edge attached to the upper edge of the outerwear band and its lower edge attached to the upper edge of the main body.

5. A garment as defined in claim 4, wherein the stiffener material is a woven elastic material.

6. A garment in the nature of skirts, slacks, or shorts having a main body of material adapted to encircle the lower portion of the body of the wearer and having a waistband at the top of the main body of material adapted to fit around the hips of the wearer adjacent the waistline, said waistband comprising an elongate inner band of stiffener material, an elongate band of outerwear material having its upper edge folded inwardly over the upper edge of the stiffener material to form an upper hem and having its lower edge folded inwardly under the lower edge of the stiffener material to form a lower hem, a row of stitching along the upper edge securing the outerwear material and its hem to the stiffener material, a row of stitching along the lower edge of the waistband securing the outerwear material and its hem to the stiffener material and to the upper edge of the main body of material, and a strip of elastic material extending along the upper edge of the waistband inside the hem and secured while stretched to the outerwear material and the stiffener material by the upper row of stitching, so that when the elastic strip is relaxed it contracts the upper edge of the waistband and forms a generally conical shape in the waistband adapted to snugly fit the hips of the wearer adjacent the waistline.

7. A garment as defined in claim 6 including an inwardly disposed disposed elongate band of lining material having its upper edge secured to the waistband material by the upper row of stitching and having its lower edge secured to the waistband material and the main body of material by said lower row of stitching.

8. A garment as defined in claim 6 wherein the elongate band of stiffener material comprises a relatively heavy web of woven material which is elastic longitudinally.

9. A garment in the nature of skirts, slacks or shorts having a main body of material adapted to encircle the lower portion of the body of the wearer and having a waistband at the top of the main body of material adapted to fit around the hips of the wearer adjacent the waistline, said waistband comprising an elongate band of outerwear material having its upper edge folded inwardly to form an upper hem and its lower edge folded inwardly to form a lower hem disposed outwardly of the upper edge of the main body of material, an inner elongate band of lining material having its upper edge folded outwardly to form an upper hem facing the upper hem of the outerwear material and a lower edge folded outwardly to form a lower hem facing the lower hem of the outerwear material and disposed inwardly of the upper edge of the main body of material, a row of stitching securing the outerwear material to the lining material along the upper hems, a row of stitching securing the outerwear material and the lining material to the upper edge of the main body of material along the lower hems, and a strip of elastic material extending along the upper hems and secured thereto by said upper row of stitching while the elastic material is under tension, so that when the elastic strip is relaxed it contracts the material along the upper hems, forming a generally conical shape in the waistband adapted to conform to the hips of the wearer adjacent the waistline.

10. A garment as defined in claim 9 including an elongate band of stiffener material disposed between the outerwear material and the lining material and secured to both by the upper and lower rows of stitching.

11. A garment as defined in claim 9 wherein the stiffener material comprises a relatively heavy web of woven elastic material having opposite edges disposed inside the hems of the outerwear material.

12. A method of making a waistband for an article of clothing in the nature of skirts, slacks or shorts having a main body of material adapted to encircle the hips of the wearer and having the waistband at the top of the main body of material adapted to fit around the hips of the wearer adjacent the waistline, comprising the steps of folding the upper edge of an elongate band of loosely woven outerwear material to form a hem, advancing the hem past a sewing station while forming a row of stitching securing the hem, securing a strip of elastic material along the hem while maintaining the elastic material stretched, and securing the lower edge of the outerwear material to the top of the main body, so that when the elastic strip is relaxed it contracts the upper edge of the band without contracting the lower edge thereof to form a generally conical unpleated shape adapted to fit the hips adjacent the waistline.

13. A method as defined in claim 12, including the step of disposing the elastic material inside the hem of the outerwear material and forming the row of stitching to simultaneously secure the hemmed edge in place and secure the elastic material in place.

14. A method as defined in claim 12, including the step of securing an elongate band of inner material to the outerwear material by a row of stitching along the upper edge securing the lining material to the outerwear material and a row of stitching along the lower edge securing the lining material to the upper edge of the main body of the garment.

15. A method of making a waistband for an article of clothing such as skirts, slacks, or shorts having a main body of material adapted to encircle the hips of the wearer and having the waistband at the top of the main body of material adapted to fit the hips adjacent the waistline, comprising the steps of advancing an elongate band of outerwear material while folding the upper and lower edges inwardly to form upper and lower hems, simultaneously advancing an elongate band of stiffener material disposed inside the hems of the outerwear material, simultaneously advancing an elongate strip of elastic material disposed inside the upper hem of the outerwear material while maintaining the elastic stip in stretched condition, advancing the assembled waistband materials and the upper edge of the main body of material past a sewing station while forming a row of stitching along the upper hem securing the outerwear material, the stiffener material and the elastic material together and a row of stitching along the lower hem securing the outerwear material and the stiffener material to the upper edge of the main body of material so that when the elastic strip is relaxed, it contracts the upper edge of the waistband to form a generally conical shape adapted to hug the hips.

16. A method as defined in claim 15 including the step of advancing an elongate band of lining material while folding upper and lower edges outwardly to form hems facing the hems in the outerwear material, advancing the lining material past the sewing station with the upper edge aligned with the upper edge of the outerwear material and with the lower edge disposed inside the upper edge of the main body of material while the lower edge of the outerwear material is disposed outside the upper edges of the main body of material while the lower edge of the outerwear material is disposed outside the upper edges of the main body of material, forming the upper row of stitching to secure the lining material to the outerwear material and forming the lower row of stitching to secure the lining material to the main body of material.