U.S. patent number 3,728,447 [Application Number 05/016,230] was granted by the patent office on 1973-04-17 for fatty acid lactylates and glycolates for conditioning hair.
This patent grant is currently assigned to C. J. Patterson Company. Invention is credited to Dorothea Marra, Lloyd Osipow.
United States Patent |
3,728,447 |
Osipow , et al. |
April 17, 1973 |
FATTY ACID LACTYLATES AND GLYCOLATES FOR CONDITIONING HAIR
Abstract
Agents containing fatty acid lactylates and glycolates of the
formula wherein RCO is the acyl radical of a fatty acid of from six
to 22 carbon atoms, A is either CH.sub.3 or H and x is a number
from about one to four and their ammonium, alkali metal and
physiologically acceptable amine salts are used for conditioning
hair, that is, for improving the texture and manageability as well
as curl or wave retention of the hair.
Inventors: |
Osipow; Lloyd (New York,
NY), Marra; Dorothea (Summit, NJ) |
Assignee: |
C. J. Patterson Company (Kansas
City, MO)
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Family
ID: |
21776046 |
Appl.
No.: |
05/016,230 |
Filed: |
March 3, 1970 |
Related U.S. Patent Documents
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Application
Number |
Filing Date |
Patent Number |
Issue Date |
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464825 |
Jun 17, 1965 |
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Current U.S.
Class: |
424/70.22;
424/DIG.1; 424/47; 510/126; 510/127; 510/488; 424/DIG.2; 424/70.19;
424/70.8; 424/70.2 |
Current CPC
Class: |
A61K
8/37 (20130101); A61Q 5/12 (20130101); Y10S
424/01 (20130101); Y10S 424/02 (20130101) |
Current International
Class: |
A61k 007/06 () |
Field of
Search: |
;252/152,161,305
;424/47,70,71,DIG 1/ ;424/DIG.2 ;260/410.9 ;132/7 |
References Cited
[Referenced By]
U.S. Patent Documents
Other References
wells et al., Cosmetics And The Skin, Reinhold Publishing Corp.,
New York, (1964), pp. 400-406 and 409..
|
Primary Examiner: Meyers; Albert T.
Assistant Examiner: Clarke; Vera C.
Parent Case Text
This application is a continuation-in-part of copending application
Ser. No. 464,825, filed June 17, 1965, now abandoned.
Claims
We claim:
1. A method of conditioning the hair which comprises contacting the
hair with a liquid hair dressing composition containing
homogeneously distributed therein, as the essential hair
conditioning agent, about 0.1 to 10 percent by weight of at least
one member selected from the group consisting of fatty acid
lactylates and glycolates of the formula
wherein RCO is the acyl radical of a fatty acid of from six to 22
carbon atoms, A is CH.sub.3 or H and x is a number from one to four
and their ammonium, alkali metal and physiologically acceptable
amine salts.
2. A method of conditioning the hair which comprises giving the
hair a rinse with an aqueous hair rinse liquid having a pH between
about four and 10.2 containing homogeneously distributed therein,
as the essential hair conditioning agent, about 0.1 to 10 percent
by weight of at least one member selected from the group consisting
of fatty acid lactylates and glycolates of the formula
wherein RCO is the acyl radical of a fatty acid of from six to 22
carbon atoms, A is CH.sub.3 or H and x is a number from about one
to four and their ammonium, alkali metal and physiologically
acceptable amine salts and subsequently rinsing the hair with
water.
3. A method of conditioning the hair which comprises giving the
hair a rinse with an aqueous hair rinse liquid having a pH between
about four and 10.2 containing homogeneously distributed therein,
as the essential hair conditioning agent, about 0.1 to 2 percent by
weight of at least one member selected from the group consisting of
fatty acid lactylates and glycolates of the formula
wherein RCO is the acyl radical of a fatty acid of from six to 22
carbon atoms, A is CH.sub.3 or H and x is a number from about one
to four and their ammonium, alkali metal and physiologically
acceptable amine salts.
4. A method of conditioning the hair which comprises giving the
hair a rinse with an aqueous hair rinse liquid having a pH between
about four and 10.2 containing homogeneously distributed therein,
as the essential hair conditioning agent, about 0.1 to 2 percent by
weight of at least one member selected from the group consisting of
fatty acid lactylates and glycolates of the formula
wherein RCO is the acyl radical of a saturated fatty acid of from
six to 12 carbon atoms, A is CH.sub.3 or H and x is a number from
about one to four and their ammonium, alkali metal and
physiologically acceptable amine salts.
5. A method of conditioning the hair which comprises giving the
hair a rinse with an aqueous hair rinse liquid having a pH between
about four and 10.2 containing homogeneously distributed therein,
as the essential hair conditioning agent, about 0.1 to 2 percent by
weight of at least one member selected from the group consisting of
fatty acid lactylates and glycolates of the formula
wherein RCO is the acyl radical of oleic acid, A is CH.sub.3 or H
and x is a number from about one to four and their ammonium, alkali
metal and physiologically acceptable amine salts.
6. A method of curling the hair which comprises wetting the hair
with an aqueous hair setting liquid having a pH between about four
and 10.2 containing homogeneously distributed therein, as the
essential hair setting agent, about 0.2 to 1 percent by weight of
at least one member selected from the group consisting of fatty
acid lactylates and glycolates of the formula
wherein RCO is the acyl radical of a saturated fatty acid of from
six to 12 carbon atoms, A is CH.sub.3 or H and x is a number from
about one to four, and their ammonium, alkali metal and
physiologically acceptable amine salts, winding the wetted hair on
a hair curler and drying the thus wound hair on the hair
curler.
7. A method of curling the hair which comprises wetting the hair
with an aqueous hair setting liquid having a pH between about four
and 10.2 containing homogeneously distributed therein, as the
essential hair setting agent, about 0.2 to 1 percent by weight of
at least one member selected from the group consisting of fatty
acid lactylates and glycolates of the formula
wherein RCO is the acyl radical of oleic acid, A is CH.sub.3 or H
and x is a number from about one to four, and their ammonium,
alkali metal and physiologically acceptable amine salts, winding
the wetted hair on a hair curler and drying the thus wound hair on
the hair curler.
8. A process of cleansing and conditioning the hair, which
comprises shampooing the hair with a liquid aqueous shampoo
composition containing homogeneously distributed therein an
effective amount of a cleansing detergent component selected from
the group consisting of ammonium, alkali metal and physiologically
acceptable amine salts of fatty acid lactylates and glycolates of
the formula
wherein RCO is the acyl radical of a saturated fatty acid of from
12 - 16 carbon atoms, A is CH.sub.3 or H and x is a number from
about one to four and such salt of a fatty acid lactylate or
glycolate in combination with another hair cleansing detergent
selected from the group consisting of sodium lauryl sulfate,
triethanolamine lauryl sulfate, sodium pentadecyl sulfate,
triethanolamine dodecyl benzene sulfonate, sodium xylene sulfonate,
methanol amine lauryl sulfate and mixtures thereof, at a pH between
about 5.5 and about 10, the ratio of said salt of the fatty acid
lactylate or glycolate to said other hair cleansing detergent in
said combination being at least one to five, said fatty acid
lactylate or glycolate component also being the essential hair
conditioning component and being present in said liquid shampoo
composition in a quantity of about 0.1 to 10 percent.
9. The process of claim 8 in which said hair cleansing component is
a combination of said fatty acid lactylate or glycolate and another
hair cleansing detergent and said other hair cleansing detergent is
a physiologically acceptable water soluble lauryl sulfate salt.
10. A process of cleansing and conditioning the hair, which
comprises shampooing the hair with an aqueous shampoo composition
containing homogeneously distributed therein, as the cleansing
detergent and hair conditioning component, an effective amount of a
salt selected from the group consisting of ammonium, alkali metal
and physiologically acceptable amine salts of a fatty acid
lactylate and glycolate of the formula
wherein RCO is the acyl radical of a saturated fatty acid of from
12 - 16 carbon atoms, A is CH.sub.3 or H and x is a number from
about one to four and about 20 to 100 percent by weight of a foam
stabilizer based upon the salt of fatty acid lactylate or glycolate
at a pH between about seven and about eight, said foam stabilizer
being selected from the group consisting of a fatty acid amide and
the corresponding fatty alkyl dimethylamine oxide thereof.
11. A process of cleansing and conditioning the hair, which
comprises shampooing the hair with an aqueous shampoo composition
containing homogeneously distributed therein, as the cleansing
detergent, an effective amount of a combination of a salt selected
from the group consisting of ammonium, alkali metal and
physiologically acceptable amine salts of a fatty acid lactylate
and glycolate of the formula
wherein RCO is the acyl radical of a saturated fatty acid of from
12 - 16 carbon atoms, A is CH.sub.3 or H and x is a number from
about one to four with a physiologically acceptable water soluble
lauryl sulfate salt, the proportion of said salt of the fatty acid
lactylate or glycolate to said lauryl sulfate salt being at least
one to five, and 20 to 100 percent by weight of a foam stabilizer
based upon the cleansing detergent combination at a pH between
about 5.5 and 10.2, said foam stabilizer being selected from the
group consisting of a fatty acid amide and the corresponding fatty
alkyl dimethylamine oxide thereof, said fatty acid lactylate or
glycolate salt also being the essential hair conditioning component
and being present in said shampoo composition in a quantity of
about 0.1 t0 10 percent.
12. An aqueous liquid hair shampoo and hair conditioning
composition containing homogeneously distributed therein an
effective amount of a cleansing detergent component selected from
the group consisting of ammonium, alkali metal and physiologically
acceptable amine salts of a fatty acid lactylate and glycolate of
the formula
wherein RCO is the acyl radical of a saturated fatty acid of from
12 - 16 carbon atoms, A is CH.sub.3 or H and x is a number from
about one to four and such salt of a fatty acid lactylate or
glycolate in combination with another hair cleansing detergent
selected from the group consisting of sodium lauryl sulfate,
triethanolamine lauryl sulfate, sodium pentadecyl sulfate,
triethanolamine dodecyl benzene sulfonate, sodium xylene sulfonate,
methanol amine lauryl sulfate and mixtures thereof, at a pH between
about 5.5 and eight, the ratio of said salt of the fatty acid
lactylate or glycolate to said other hair cleansing detergent in
said combination being at least one to five and 20 to 100 percent
by weight of a foam stabilizer based upon the cleansing detergent
component, said foam stabilizer being selected from the group
consisting of a fatty acid amide and the corresponding fatty alkyl
dimethylamine oxide thereof, said fatty acid lactylate or glycolate
component being the essential hair conditioning component and being
present in an effective amount to condition the hair when the
composition is used in shampooing the hair.
13. An aqueous liquid hair shampoo and hair conditioning
composition containing homogeneously distributed therein, as the
cleansing detergent, an effective amount of a salt selected from
the group consisting of ammonium, alkali metal and physiologically
acceptable amine salts of a fatty acid lactylate and glycolate of
the formula
wherein RCO is the acyl radical or a saturated fatty acid of from
12 - 16 carbon atoms, A is CH.sub.3 or H and x is a number from
about one to four and about 20 to 100 percent by weight of a foam
stabilizer based upon the salt of fatty acid lactylate or glycolate
at a pH between about seven and about eight, said foam stabilizer
being selected from the group consisting of a fatty acid amide and
the corresponding fatty alkyl dimethylamine oxide thereof, said
fatty acid lactylate or glycolate component being the essential
hair conditioning component and being present in an effective
amount to condition the hair when the composition is used in
shampooing the hair.
14. An aqueous liquid hair shampoo and hair conditioning
composition containing homogeneously distributed therein, as the
cleansing detergent, an effective amount of a combination of a salt
selected from the group consisting of ammonium, alkali metal and
physiologically acceptable amine salts of a fatty acid lactylate or
glycolate of the formula
wherein RCO is the acyl radical of a saturated fatty acid of from
12 - 16 carbon atoms, A is CH.sub.3 or H and x is a number from
about one to four with a physiologically acceptable water soluble
lauryl sulfate salt, the proportion of the salt of the fatty acid
lactylate or glycolate to said lauryl sulfate salt being at least
one to five, at a pH between about 5.5 and 10.2, said fatty acid
lactylate or glycolate component being the essential hair
conditioning component and being present in an effective amount to
condition the hair when the composition is used in shampooing the
hair.
15. A composition according to claim 14 in which said hair
conditioning component is a salt of a fatty acid lactylate.
16. A composition according to claim 14 in which said hair
conditioning component is a salt of a fatty acid glycolate.
Description
The present invention relates to the treatment of hair for
conditioning of such hair and/or cleansing the hair and
preparations for carrying out such treatments. The expression "hair
conditioning agent" is employed herein to include agents which when
applied to the hair improve the texture, the manageability of the
hair and/or the retention of wave or curl in the hair.
As is well known, the modern day hair dressing treatments,
including permanent waving, bleaching, tinting and shampooing, have
a tendency to cause undesirable changes in the texture of the hair
so that it may appear dry, harsh and difficult to manage. While
such changes in some instances may be caused by loss of oily
components from the hair and scalp, in other instances it may be
caused by changes in the actual structure of the hair. For example,
the synthetic surface active agents, principally, lauryl sulfate
salts, which now have practically displaced the previously
customary soaps, such as coconut oil soaps in shampoos, are such
effective cleansing agents that they are apt to remove practically
all of the oily components from the hair and scalp with the
consequence that the hair shampooed therewith appears dry and tends
to become tangled when combed. Also, hair treatments involving
permanent waving, bleaching, tinting and the like, often cause
roughening, weakening and porosity in the hair which also impart a
harsh texture to the hair.
As a consequence it has recently been customary to include
conditioning agents in shampoos which deposit on the hair in place
of the soil and sebum removed. Conditioning agents commonly used in
shampoos, for example, are lecithin, lanolin, ethoxylated lanolin
alcohols, water insoluble esters and amides of fatty acids and the
like. The conditioning agents normally depress both the foaming and
cleansing properties of the shampoos and it is therefore necessary
that they only be used at relatively low concentrations where their
conditioning action is borderline. Also, hair rinse preparations
have been developed which are used in after-rinses for use after a
shampoo, permanent wave, bleach or dyeing treatment. Thus far, the
only materials which have met with commercial success as hair
rinses are compositions which contain cationic surface active
agents, particularly quaternary ammonium compounds. These materials
are highly substantive to the hair and are effective conditioning
agents. One serious disadvantage, though, is that they tend to
cause eye irritation even at low concentrations and consequently
considerable caution must be exercised to avoid contact with the
eyes. The term "substantive" signifies that the agent is taken up
from the solution by the hair and adsorbed on the hair in such a
manner that it is not easily removed by a subsequent water rinse
.
It is an object of the invention to provide novel improved methods
and preparations for conditioning hair.
According to the invention it was unexpectedly found that fatty
acid lactylates and fatty acid glycolates, when applied to the hair
in the form of shampoo preparations, rinses, as well as hair
setting or curling preparations, will substantially improve the
texture, hand and manageability of the hair and furthermore that
they are highly substantive to the hair.
The fatty acid lactylates and glycolates concerned are the free
fatty acid lactylates and glycolates which essentially are of the
following composition
and their ammonium, alkali metal and physiologically
unobjectionable amine salts. In such fatty acid lactylates and
glycolates, RCO is the acyl radical of a fatty acid of from six to
22 carbon atoms such as, for example, caproic, caprylic, capric,
lauric, myristic, palmitic, stearic, oleic and behenic acids and A
is either CH.sub.3 or H. Where a lathering effect is desired the
acyl group preferably is of a saturated fatty acid of 12 to 16
carbon atoms. x is a number from 1 - 4, preferably, about 1 - 2. In
the nomenclature employed herein, as in sodium-lauryl-2-lactylate,
the number 2 signifies the x in the above formula.
The fatty acid lactylates and glycolates concerned are produced by
methods described in U.S. Pat. 2,733,252 directed to the production
of salts of fatty acid esters of lactylic acids using the
appropriate fatty acid and lactic acid or glycolic acid. The
products in general are mixtures and therefore the values for x
generally are average values. Nevertheless, separations such as on
a chromatographic column can be effected. Also, even when salts are
prepared, in practical scale processes, some free acids are present
so that the product as obtained normally is acid when dispersed in
water with a pH of about 3 to 5. The pH of such acid products can
be adjusted, if desired, by addition of an appropriate amount of an
alkaline compound, such as sodium hydroxide or sodium carbonate or
triethanolamine or other suitable alkalizing agents. The fatty acid
lactylates or glycolates employed according to the invention
therefore can be in the form of free acids, their salts or mixtures
thereof.
The presence of salts of the fatty acids per se, such as sodium
laurate along with the salts of the fatty acid lactylates or
glycolates is permissible and in the case of shampoo preparations
will assist in the lathering effect. In some instances the quantity
of the salts of the fatty acid per se which may be present are such
that the composition when taken as a whole, that is, the salt of
the fatty acid lactylate or glycolate plus the salt of the fatty
acid per se, gives a product in which the value of x is less than
one, for example, about 0.5 to 0.9. Such compositions can be
prepared by simple mixture of the salts of the fatty acid
lactylates or glycolates with salts of the fatty acids per se or by
preparation of the fatty acid lactylates or glycolates using less
than 1 mol of lactic acid or glycolic acid per mol of fatty
acid.
The salts of the acyl lactylates or glycolates which are especially
adapted for the purposes of the invention are the ammonium salts,
the alkali metal salts, such as the sodium and potassium salts, as
well as the physiologically unobjectionable water soluble or water
dispersible amine salts, such as the morpholine, mono-, di- and
tri-ethanolamine salts.
It was found that the substantivity and therefore the lasting
conditioning effect depends to some extent upon the pH at which the
fatty acid lactylate or glycolate containing preparations are
applied to the hair as well as the concentration and presence or
absence of other surface active agents.
In general the substantivity and hair conditioning effect decreases
with increase in pH. Suitable results have been obtained with
preparations having a pH within the range of about 4.0 to about
10.2. As hair rinses are primarily customarily employed to
condition hair after shampooing, permanent waving, bleaching or
dyeing operations which may cause to a varying degree loss of
sebaceous compounds of the hair or even changes in the structure of
the hair itself, such as roughening and increases in porosity, it
is desirable that they provide as great a hair conditioning action
as possible and it therefore is advantageous to provide such rinses
with a pH around 4.0 to 6.5. Such low pH values are also
advantageous in rinses for the neutralization of any deleterious
alkaline residues on the hair resulting from hair dressing
treatments. As low pH values normally reduce the foaming and
cleansing action in shampoos, it is more advantageous to provide a
higher pH of, for example, about seven to eight in shampoo
preparations. Discernible conditioning action is still obtained
with hair shampoos containing the fatty acid lactylates or
glycolates according to the invention providing a pH of about seven
to eight. The shampoo is easily rinsed out to leave the hair
glossy. When the fatty acid lactylates or glycolates according to
the invention are used in conjunction with other hair cleansing
detergents, such as, the alkyl (C = 12 to 18) sulfates and alkyl
benzene sulfonate detergents, the substantivity at the same pH and
same concentration of fatty acid lactylate or glycolate may be
somewhat lower in view of the stripping action exerted by the other
detergent. However, with the proper other detergents, such as, for
example, triethanolamine lauryl sulfate, it is possible to reduce
the pH of the shampoo so as to counteract the stripping action of
such detergent.
In addition to improving the gloss, softness, combing ease and
manageability of the hair, it was found that treatment of the hair
with the fatty acid lactylates and glycolates according to the
invention improves curl and wave retention by the hair, especially,
under humid atmospheric conditions. Curl retention in hair treated
with the fatty acid lactylates or glycolates according to the
invention is comparable with that obtained with a commercial hair
setting lotion based on an acrylic resin and superior to that
observed with many commercial hair sprays based on polyvinyl
pyrrolidone. Hair treated with the lactylates and glycolates have a
glossy look and are not stiff or tacky as often observed with
conventional hair sprays. The lactylates and glycolates providing
the best setting effects on hair are obtained with lactylates and
glycolates wherein the acyl group is derived from six to 12 carbon
atom saturated fatty acids and from oleic acid. Consistently
outstanding effects are obtained with the caproyl lactylate.
It furthermore was found that hair shampoo preparations containing
the fatty acid lactylates or glycolates according to the invention
provide a further unexpected result in that the oil build up on the
hair is decreased between shampoos. Hair shampoo preparations can
be of widely varying composition to a certain extent, depending
upon the type of hair to be washed, that is, for example, whether
the hair normally has a tendency for excessive dryness or oiliness.
The fatty acid lactylates or glycolates wherein the acyl group is
saturated and contains 12 - 16 carbon atoms according to the
invention can be included in shampoos for their cleansing action in
the absence of other cleansing detergents where high foaming or
lathering action is not prescribed. Such shampoos, however,
preferably also contain normal foam stabilizers used in shampoo
preparations, such as, the fatty acid amides, for example, the
mono- and di-ethanol or propanol amides of lauric, myristic or
mixed coconut oil fatty acids or the corresponding fatty alkyl
dimethylamine oxides. Preferably the pH of such shampoos is
adjusted to around 7.5. The cleaning action of such shampoos is
satisfactory and while the foam is minimal the lubricity of the
lather and the conditioning effect on the hair is excellent. Where
higher foaming action is desired other detergents, such as, sodium
lauryl sulfate or triethanolamine lauryl sulfate may be used in
order to boost the foaming and lathering action. It was found that
the presence of the acyl lactylates and glycolates wherein the acyl
group is saturated and contains 12 - 16 carbon atoms, in shampoos
containing other hair cleansing detergents will improve the
quantity and also the quality of the foam obtained in that the
bubbles are finer so that a denser foam is obtained. It has also
been observed that the inclusion of the acyl lactylates and
especially the acyl glycolates in the normal shampoo preparations
such as those containing lauryl sulfates tends to increase their
viscosity desirably. Such boosted compositions in addition can also
contain the conventional foam stabilizers. The foam stabilizers
when used in the shampoos according to the invention are used in
the customary concentration of about 1 to 5 percent where the
shampoo is to be used without substantial dilution. When
concentrates are involved which are to be diluted, the
concentrations should be correspondingly higher. If desired, the
shampoos according to the invention may also contain the usual
opacifying agents, such as magnesium stearate, guanine stearyl
amide, ethylene or propylene glycolmonostearate.
The quantity of fatty acid lactylate or glycolate included in the
shampoo preparations depends upon whether or not a booster
detergent is present. When used alone the concentration may be, for
example, between 5 to 25 percent, preferably, about 8 - 15 percent
by weight of the composition. When used in conjunction with a
booster detergent the quantity can be reduced down to about 1 to 2
percent. Such low concentrations still exhibit substantial
substantivity if the pH is reduced to about 5.5. Preferably the
ratio of fatty acid lactylate or glycolate to the booster detergent
is at least one to five. When foam stabilizers are employed in the
shampoo compositions they can be present in quantities of about 20
to 100 percent by weight with reference to the detergent
component.
Compositions suitable as hair rinse or hair setting or hair curling
compositions may also be of widely varied compositions. In some
instances hair rinse compositions may also double for hair setting
or curling compositions. In general, if the composition is to be
used as a final rinse or as a hair setting or curling composition
so that it is dried directly on the hair, it is advisable that such
compositions contain between about 0.1 and 2 percent, preferably,
about 0.2 to 1 percent of the fatty acid lactylate or glycolate as
at higher concentrations than 2 percent the hair will appear oily
unless the application is followed by a water rinse. When
application is to be followed by a water rinse concentrations can
range up to about 10 percent. In general, the compositions are such
that the fatty acid lactylate or glycolate is either in solution or
in the form of a colloidal dispersion. For example, rinses and hair
setting or curling compositions can be prepared as concentrated
solutions in ethanol or isopropanol, preferably, at a pH of 4 - 6
which may be diluted with water to give solutions or dispersions at
the desired concentrations. Solutions or dispersions in mixtures of
water and alcohols, such as ethanol, isopropanol and propylene
glycol, can be used as the solvent or dispersing medium. Also,
various surface active agents can be used to enhance water
solubility of the fatty acyl lactylates or glycolates, such as
polyoxyethylene sorbitan monostearate, polyoxyethylene lanolin
alcohols and the like. In hair setting or curling preparations it
may be desirable to include a relatively small quantity, for
example, about 2 percent of a thickening agent such as sodium
carboxy methyl cellulose, methyl cellulose or carboxy vinyl
polymer. Hair setting or curling preparations can be provided such
as to be suitable for application as aerosol sprays, for example,
by dissolving the fatty acyl lactylate or glycolate in ethanol and
pressurizing such solution with propellants, such as the
dichloro-,difluoro- or trichloro-monofluoromethanes.
While lactylates or glycolates of fatty acids having 6 - 22 carbon
atoms provide substantive hair conditioning effects, those with
saturated fatty acids containing 6 - 12 carbon atoms were superior
to those with a higher number of carbon atoms. The oleyl lactylate
also exhibited excellent substantivity. Substantivity and hair
conditioning action were discernible not only by subjective
investigations but also by procedures indicating the amount of the
lactylate or glycolate absorbed on hair. The latter test was
conducted as follows:
Swatches of Caucasian hair were bleached a number of times with
twenty volume hydrogen peroxide and ammonia until they were white
and had a rough, strawlike feel. The swatches were then soaked for
ten minutes in 0.75 percent aqueous solutions of sodium lauryl
sulfate, of a conventional quaternary ammonium compound
conditioning agent and of various acyl lactylates and glycolates.
This was followed by at least a one-half minute rinse under running
tap water (2-grain hardness). After air-drying, the swatches were
placed in a sealed container along with crystals of iodine. Many
types of lipids turn brown in the presence of iodine vapor. After
this exposure period, the swatches were examined. A hair swatch
that had been washed with water remained white. Similarly, a hair
swatch that had been treated with the solution of sodium lauryl
sulfate remained white. On the other hand that treated with a
commercial hair rinse based on a quaternary ammonium compound, as
well as swatches treated with the acyl lactylates and glycolates
were stained by the iodine vapor.
The intensity of the stain produced is an indication of the
relative amount of substantivity achieved. In general, at equal
concentrations of the lactylates and the glycolates the
substantivity achieved with the glycolates was somewhat less but
this is easily compensated for by using increased concentrations of
the glycolates. The tests indicated that whether the lactylate or
glycolate group was monomeric or polymeric, that is, whether x is
one or up to about four or somewhat higher, had no decided
influence on the performance. Typical suitable fatty acid
lactylates and glycolates, for instance, are as follows: the alkali
metal or water soluble or water dispersible pharmacologically
acceptable amine salts (or partial salts) of caproyl-2-lactylate,
caprylyl-2-lactylate, capryl-2-lactylate, lauryl-1-lactylate,
lauryl-2-lactylate, lauryl-3-lactylate, lauryl-4-lactylate,
myristyl-1-lactylate, myristyl-2-lactylate, oleyl-2-lactylate,
palmityl-2-lactylate, stearyl-2-lactylate, behenyl-2-lactylate,
lauryl-1-glycolate, myristyl-1-glycolate, myristyl-2-glycolate,
palmityl-1glycolate, lauryl/myristyl-1-glycolate,
capryl-1-glycolate.
The following examples will serve to illustrate the present
invention with reference to a number of embodiments thereof. The
sodium salts of the fatty acid lactylates and glycolates are
primarily used in such examples as they are the most common and
most easily available. Ammonium salts, as well as other alkali
metal salts and water soluble or water dispersible salts with
physiologically acceptable amines give analogous results. Also it
will be readily understood that free fatty acid lactylates are
present in those compositions which have a low pH.
Examples 1 - 25
The following compositions have been found well suited for
shampooing hair. In their preparation the ingredients which are
given in parts by weight are combined and heated to give a clear
solution and the pH adjusted as required with 10 percent NaOH or 10
percent HCl or with triethanolamine. ##SPC1##
Such compositions are adapted for shampooing the hair in the normal
manner such as, for example, by wetting the hair down with water,
applying the shampoo composition and rubbing and kneading the hair
to raise a lather and then rinsing the hair. The fatty acid
lactylates and glycolates rinse freely even in hard water and leave
the hair glossy.
Examples 26 - 34
The following compositions have been found suited as concentrated
hair rinse or hair setting or curling preparations. The proportions
are in grams except for the ethanol and isopropanol which are in
ml. Their preparation is analogous to that of the shampoo
compositions. ##SPC2##
While such concentrates could be used as such as intermediate
rinses which are followed by a water rinse, they preferably are
diluted with water to provide a fatty acid lactylate or glycolate
concentration between about 0.1 and 2 percent, preferably, between
about 0.2 and 1 percent and used as a final rinse. When diluted to
the 0.2 - 1 percent concentrations they provide the best curl
retention effect which is evidenced if the hair still wet after a
final rinse therewith is wound on a metal curler and permitted to
dry. In most hair the resulting curled hair retained its curl much
longer in humid atmospheres than with water alone (as is known,
some types of hair are such that excellent retention of curl is
attained using water alone as a wave set).
EXAMPLES 38 - 44
The following are compositions which are adapted to be used
directly as hair setting or curling compositions, that is, not
necessarily as a conditioning rinse after some other hair dressing
operation. In use the hair to be curled is saturated with such
compositions, combed, wound on curlers and permitted to dry.
The following first four aqueous hair setting or curling
compositions were respectively based on the hair rinse concentrates
of Examples 31 - 37. The concentrations are given in parts by
weight.
EXAMPLES
38 39 40 41 42 43 44 Concentrate of Example 31 10 Concentrate of
Example 32 10 Concentrate of Example 33 10 Concentrate of Example
34 10 Concentrate of Example 35 10 Concentrate of Example 36 10
Concentrate of Example 37 10 Carbopol 941 1% aqueous) 20 20 20 20
20 20 20 Water 70 70 70 70 70 70 70
Carbopol b 941 is a high molecular weight carboxy vinyl polymer and
was added as a thickening agent as the users of hair setting or
curling preparations are accustomed to somewhat viscous
preparations. It was first prepared as a 1 percent solution in
water and then mixed with other ingredients until a uniform mixture
resulted. It is an optional ingredient which does not essentially
affect the curl retaining properties of the hair set with such
preparations. Other thickening gums, such as carboxymethyl
cellulose or methyl cellulose can be used in place of the
Carbopol.
The following three compositions are for use as aerosol wave
sets:
EXAMPLES
45 46 47 Sodium lauryl-1 -lactylate 1.0 g Sodium oleyl-2- lactylate
1.0 g Sodium caproyl-2- lactylate 1.0 g Ethanol, anhydrous 50 ml 50
ml 50 ml Dichloro-difluoro methane 25 ml 25 ml 25 ml
Trichloro-monofluor 25 ml 25 ml 25 ml
Such aerosol wave set compositions were prepared by heating the
lactylate with alcohol to dissolve, cooling the solution to room
temperature and pressurizing with the propellants. Other customary
aerosol spray propellants such as compressed nitrogen and propane
can be used in place of the fluorocarbon propellants mentioned.
The term "homogeneously distributed" is employed herein to include
solutions as well as colloidal dispersions of the distributed
substance.
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