U.S. patent number 3,701,273 [Application Number 05/120,078] was granted by the patent office on 1972-10-31 for method of making footwear.
This patent grant is currently assigned to Ro-Search, Incorporated. Invention is credited to Horace R. Auberry, Anton Liebscher.
United States Patent |
3,701,273 |
Auberry , et al. |
October 31, 1972 |
METHOD OF MAKING FOOTWEAR
Abstract
The invention refers to the manufacture of shoes with uppers
lasted by pulling a string secured to the lasting margin of the
upper. Improvements are presented which reduce costs of manufacture
especially if the sole is molded directly to the upper. The method
of manufacture includes use of a last deformed to obtain
preselected location of the lasting margin and to prevent the
formation of undesirable spew.
Inventors: |
Auberry; Horace R.
(Waynesville, NC), Liebscher; Anton (Waynesville, NC) |
Assignee: |
Ro-Search, Incorporated
(Waynesville, NC)
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Family
ID: |
22388141 |
Appl.
No.: |
05/120,078 |
Filed: |
March 2, 1971 |
Related U.S. Patent Documents
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Application
Number |
Filing Date |
Patent Number |
Issue Date |
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34003 |
May 4, 1970 |
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Current U.S.
Class: |
12/145 |
Current CPC
Class: |
A43B
9/04 (20130101); B29D 35/061 (20130101); A43B
15/00 (20130101); B29D 35/0063 (20130101); B29D
35/065 (20130101) |
Current International
Class: |
A43B
15/00 (20060101); A43B 9/04 (20060101); A43B
9/00 (20060101); B29D 31/50 (20060101); B29D
31/508 (20060101); A43d 021/00 () |
Field of
Search: |
;12/145,142R,142RS |
References Cited
[Referenced By]
U.S. Patent Documents
Foreign Patent Documents
Primary Examiner: Lawson; Patrick D.
Parent Case Text
This is a continuation-in-part of our application Ser. No. 34,003,
filed May 4, 1970.
Claims
What is claimed is:
1. The method of manufacturing shoes comprising the steps of
stitching to the bottom margin of an upper a welt and a lasting
string, said lasting string being positioned at the inner edge of
the lasting margin of the upper and secured thereto, placing said
upper on a last, tightening said string to last the upper, and
molding a sole of elastomeric material to said welt, said welt
covering the upper outside surface of said sole.
2. The method as set forth in claim 1 further characterized in that
said welt is prefinished.
3. The method of manufacturing shoes as set forth in claim 2
further characterized in that the molding of the sole forces a
portion of the welt to overlie at least a portion of the side
margin of the sole and said portion of the welt is molded to said
side margin.
4. The method according to claim 3 further characterized in that
said welt is a preformed elastomer.
5. The method according to claim 2 further characterized in that
said welt is of sufficient rigidity and is positioned relative to
the bottom margin of the upper to form a side wall of a mold prior
to the molding of the sole to the welt.
6. The method as set forth in claim 2 further characterized in that
said lasting string is first secured to the welt and thereafter the
welt is stitched to the upper.
7. The method as set forth in claim 2 wherein the lasting string is
stitched to both the upper and the welt.
8. The method as set forth in claim 2 wherein said welt is secured
to the upper by a first line of stitching and the lasting string is
secured to the upper by a second line of stitching.
Description
KNOWN ART
It is customary to stitch a string to the edge of the lasting
margin of an upper, to place then the upper on a last and to
tighten the string to pull the lasting margin onto the sole surface
of the last until the desired lasting effect is obtained in the
judgment of the operator, whereupon the string is knotted.
PREFERRED EMBODIMENTS
According to the invention the lasting string is secured to the
lasting margin of the upper together with a welt strip, preferably
by a single stitching. The upper is then placed upon a last with
stops on the sole surface of said last, which might be pins. The
lasting string is then tightened until it and the lasting margin
abut the pins. This eliminates the need for skilled workers and
assures that no overlasting occurs. If a sole comprising
elastomeric material is to be molded directly to the upper, it is
preferred to provide a continuous rim inside of the feather edge of
the last, which then not only provides a stop to prevent
overlasting, but also a sealing wall to prevent the escape of
elastomeric material into the interior of the shoe. After demolding
of the shoe from the last, the open groove in the sole can be
filled. It is further preferred to create the rim by providing in
the last a retractable sole plate which projects inwardly of the
feather edge of the last into the sole space. After molding the
sole shell, the sole plate of the last might be retracted without
removing the last from the mold so as to permit the formation of a
porous filler of the sole. Such retractable plate might be at least
partially replaced by a membrane.
The use of an inside stop for the lasting margin allows the use of
a completely prefinished welt, be it leather, rubber, etc. which in
the mold will be touching the side wall of the mold cavity. The
spacing between the stop for the inner edge of the welt and the
side wall of the cavity can be selected to fit exactly the
dimensions of the prefinished welt. No elastomeric material, be it
rubber or other elastomeric material, will then penetrate between
the outside of the welt and the mold wall and there will be no need
for buffing or other finishing of the sole edge.
The deformation of the last for sealing purposes is useful not only
for the prevention of spew on the inside of the sole, but can be
provided also for the outside of the shoe. For this purpose the
invention provides a slight projection outwardly on the outside of
the last above the feather edge thereof. The lip of the side wall
of the mold is arranged slightly above said projection so that the
material of the upper is squeezed between said lip and said
projection. By allowing the last a slight movement in relation to
said lip in a direction away (vertically) from the shoe sole, the
sealing pressure which heretofore was exerted essentially
horizontally (parallel to the sole surface) is then, according to
the invention, essentially in a vertical direction.
The projection might also be created by providing a recess in the
last. After removal of the finished shoe from the last, the
resiliency of the upper will straighten the curvature existing in
the upper and no inconvenience will be experienced by the wearer of
the shoe. This arrangement is also useful for shoes with high
foxing, such as basketball shoes.
In the drawings:
FIG. 1 is a cross section of a shoe according to the invention,
while in a molding device for elastomeric soles;
FIG. 2 shows in a similar cross-section, a shoe with a high
foxing;
FIGS. 3 and 4 are cross-sections of other embodiments of the
invention;
FIG. 5 is a section through the heel part; and
FIG. 6 is a section through the sole edge.
FIG. 1 shows the upper 1 on the last 2. At the lasting margin 11 of
the upper 1 a strip 3, such as a prefinished welt, and a lasting
string 4 are fastened by a stitching 5. The last 2 has a recess 6
into which a last sole plate 7 can be withdrawn. The side walls 8
of the sole forming cavity with the lip 9 close as usual by a
sideways movement (parallel to the sole surface). A bottom plate 10
is used to mold the outer sole. The edge 12 of the last sole plate
7 serves during the lasting of the upper as a stop for the inner
edge of the lasting margin and prevents the overlasting of the
upper. The plate 7 can be withdrawn into the space 6 to make room
for a pillow such as formed by expanding a mix for porous rubber.
In some cases it might be preferred to use fixed pins, rims, or
plates as stops for the lasting margin 11 to prevent overlasting.
By selecting the spacing between the stop 12 and the cavity wall 13
to correspond exactly to the welt dimension it can be prevented
that sole molding material covers the outside of the welt. NO
finishing will then be needed.
FIG. 2 shows a similar arrangement with not only a deformation of
the last at its sole surface to act as a stop and for sealing
purposes, but also a deformation on the outside of the last
corresponding to the upper edge of a desired foxing. Here the
deformation is a recess 14 covered by the upper 1. When the lip
plate 9 is moved sideways with the cavity wall 8 it pushes the
material of the upper into the recess 14. The sealing pressure is
then increased by the molding pressure. Sufficient sealing pressure
can be obtained in this manner with very little sideways pressure
against the material of the upper by the lip plate, thus without
damage to the upper. After separating the lip plate from the upper
on completion of the molding of the sole the upper returns to its
normal position, as shown in dotted lines at 15.
In the embodiment of the invention shown in FIG. 3, the last 2 has
in its body a heating element 18 so that the preferably previously
mulled upper 1 can be heated while on the last to a temperature
high enough to cause the upper to shrink to a tight and permanent
fit. The sole plate 20 of the last is separated from the body of
the last by the space 23 by means of spacers 21 to keep the lasting
margin of the upper at a lower temperature which does not prevent
the setting of thermoplastic sole material injected into the mold
cavity. Deformations on the last sole plate such as the rim 22
preventing overlasting and projections 29 which fill partially the
mold cavity for sole weight reduction, greater resiliency, and
comfort, help to manufacture a better shoe at lower costs.
Deformations on the last such as pins 16 or projections 17 serve to
locate the upper rim of the upper.
The bottom of the sole cavity might comprise, as shown in FIG. 4, a
rim part 30 and a center part 31 independently of each other
movable towards and away from the last bottom. This allows either
to mold first the rim part of the sole while the center part 31
presses the lasting margin of the upper against the last, or to
flatten the welt against the cavity wall by the rim part 30 while
molding the center part of the sole. FIG. 4 shows the rim part 32
molded first, then mold parts 30 and 31 withdrawn to mold the
centerpart of the sole 33 and the entire tread sole. The side wall
of the mold cavity has a rib 27 to bend the margin of the strip 3
into the elastomeric sole material as shown at 27. The lasting
string 4 is stitched only to the strip 3, preferably before
stitching the strip 3 to the lasting margin 11. It is preferred to
use extruded elastomeric material for the strip 3.
As shown in FIG. 5, such extrusion might be rounded and have a
hollow core 34. One stitching 35 might secure the extrusion to the
upper 1 while the stitching 36 secures the lasting string 4 to the
horizontal leg of the extrusion 3. Holding means such as a rim 38
connected to the mold bottom 37 hold the extrusion 3 in place
during the injection of the elastomeric sole material into the
cavity. By using thermoplastic material for both the extrusion and
the sole material, a homogeneous bond is assured for the entire
sole. If the strip 3 is preformed to facilitate the stitching to
the upper, it is preferred to select for the strip material which
can be postformed (molded) under the pressure of molding the
sole.
FIG. 6 shows a section through the heel area of a shoe in which the
strip 3 is extended to form the heel cover 40, stitched with the
lasting string to the upper. Holding means 41 are used to give the
heel cover the desired shape on the outside of the heel. A heel
filler 42 reduces the amount of elastomeric material for the heel.
Other holding means 43 shape the heel breast, while connected to
the sole plate 44 of the mold. Projections 46 of the holding means
locating in grooves of the plate 44 with tapered walls, or
projections of the plate, as shown at 48, with grooves in the
holding means as shown at 47, secure the correct position of these
means during molding. If undercuts are present, as shown, the
holding means are separated from the bottom plate before they are
removed from the shoe. The holding means are preferably
interconnected, or connected to a mold side frame. The invention
allows not only by suitable selection of the strip stitched to the
upper to reduce the costs of manufacture, as the use of finished
extrusions, braids, etc., is far less expensive than ornamentation
of the sole rim after molding, but by the use of extrusions, etc.
covering at least the major part of the side surface of the sole
rim higher wear resistance of the shoe is obtained. Further, the
weight reduction of the sole of FIG. 3 and the heat set obtained
while the upper is on the mold last improve the quality of the
shoe. If desired, the entire bottom part of the mold cavity 30 and
31 can be advanced to the rib 26 to mold the invisible part of the
elastomeric sole, and in a second step withdrawn to mold the tread
sole which then will be also visible at the side surface of the
sole rim.
* * * * *