U.S. patent number 3,696,456 [Application Number 05/117,451] was granted by the patent office on 1972-10-10 for custom shoe construction system.
This patent grant is currently assigned to International Nominees Bahamas Limited. Invention is credited to Tom David Dunham, Andrew Nagy, Lester Marvin Yeakley.
United States Patent |
3,696,456 |
Dunham , et al. |
October 10, 1972 |
CUSTOM SHOE CONSTRUCTION SYSTEM
Abstract
A custom shoe-last is cut from a block of wood by a
tape-controlled automatic milling machine. The tape is produced by
a computer which combines empirically derived shoe style model data
with foot model data. The latter is derived from foot contour
measurements taken by a plurality of simultaneously operated probes
connected to the movable elements of variable capacitors that are
connected in circuits which produce electrical outputs in
accordance with probe position. These electrical outputs are
recorded and stored on magnetic tape which is transported to the
computer site located at a point remote from the site where foot
contour measurements were taken.
Inventors: |
Dunham; Tom David (San Antonio,
TX), Yeakley; Lester Marvin (San Antonio, TX), Nagy;
Andrew (San Antonio, TX) |
Assignee: |
International Nominees Bahamas
Limited (Nassau, BA)
|
Family
ID: |
22373020 |
Appl.
No.: |
05/117,451 |
Filed: |
February 22, 1971 |
Current U.S.
Class: |
12/146L |
Current CPC
Class: |
A43D
119/00 (20130101); B44B 1/006 (20130101); A41H
1/02 (20130101); B44B 1/02 (20130101); A61B
5/1077 (20130101); B23Q 33/00 (20130101); A43D
3/02 (20130101); G05B 19/4207 (20130101); A43D
1/02 (20130101); G05B 2219/35038 (20130101); G05B
2219/45243 (20130101); G05B 2219/49025 (20130101) |
Current International
Class: |
A43D
3/00 (20060101); A43D 3/02 (20060101); A41H
1/02 (20060101); A43D 1/00 (20060101); A43D
1/02 (20060101); A43D 119/00 (20060101); A41H
1/00 (20060101); A61B 5/107 (20060101); B44B
1/02 (20060101); B44B 1/00 (20060101); B23Q
33/00 (20060101); G05B 19/42 (20060101); A43d
000/00 () |
Field of
Search: |
;12/146L,146R ;144/145.2
;223/1,49,120 |
References Cited
[Referenced By]
U.S. Patent Documents
Primary Examiner: Lawson; Patrick D.
Claims
The embodiments of the invention in which an exclusive privilege or
property is claimed are defined as follows.
1. A process for producing a custom form to be used for apparel
manufacturing, comprising the steps of
taking contour measurements of a portion of the body;
deriving body model data from said contour measurements;
combining said body model data with style model data to produce
form information signals; and
cutting a custom positive or negative form from a blank by
utilizing said form information signals to control operation of an
automatic machine tool operating on the blank.
2. A process as set forth in claim 1, in which the body model data
and style model data are combined at a data processing site located
remote from a fitting site at which the contour measurements are
taken.
3. A process as set forth in claim 2, in which the body model data
is stored on a magnetic recording member which is transported from
the fitting site to the data processing site.
4. A process as set forth in claim 3, in which the automatic
machine tool is tape controlled and the form information signals
are recorded on said tape.
5. A process as set forth in claim 1, in which a plurality of body
engaging simultaneously operated independently movable probes are
utilized for taking the contour measurements.
6. A process as set forth in claim 5, in which said probes are
fluid pressure operated.
7. A process as set forth in claim 6, in which some of said contour
measurements are taken with a first pressure applied to said probes
and others of said contour measurements are taken with a second
pressure, different than said first pressure, applied to said
probes.
8. A process as set forth in claim 5, in which said contour
measurements are in the form of electrical signals derived from
circuits having variable impedance elements controlled by the
positions of the probes.
9. A process as set forth in claim 8, in which said variable
impedance elements are capacitors having movable elements
mechanically connected to the probes to move therewith.
10. A process as set forth in claim 5, in which the probes are
parallel to one another and move in the same direction to engage
the body.
Description
This invention relates to custom apparel forms or lasts in general,
and more particularly relates to a novel process which includes the
utilization of multiple probes to take body contour measurements
and the control of an automatic machine tool to cut a custom form
or mold cavity from a blank.
For the most part, in the prior art apparel forms or lasts were
manufactured by producing a model patterned after a molded
reproduction of the area of the body on which the apparel in
question was to be worn. For custom-made shoes in particular, a
craftsman usually fabricated a shoe over the last from a molded
reproduction of the foot. However, as well known to the art, the
last should not be and was not a duplicate of the foot. Thus, the
craftsman who produced the last was required to exercise a good
deal of judgement and sometimes guesswork, to make sure that the
last differed only in proper respects from the foot mold to
compensate for foot abnormalities. Accordingly, in the prior art,
the production of a custom shoe-last was a time-consuming job that
could be performed properly only by a skilled craftsman.
The instant invention sets forth a novel method and apparatus for
producing a custom apparel form or last by utilizing the services
of relatively unskilled people and by eliminating the necessity of
producing a mold of the body portion being fitted.
In accordance with the instant invention, to produce a custom shoe
last, foot contour measurements are taken by a relatively unskilled
person, utilizing a measuring block carrying a plurality of
parallel air-pressure operated probes that are extended
simultaneously into engagement with the foot. The degree to which
each probe must be extended to contact the foot produces an
electrical signal that is recorded on a magnetic tape by apparatus
located in the general area where the foot measurements are taken.
The tape bearing the foot model data is shipped to a processing
center where a computer combines the foot model data with
empirically derived style model data to produce a punch-tape
containing last-information signals. This punch-tape is used to
control operation of an automatic milling machine which cuts the
custom shoe-last from a wood blank or block.
Accordingly, a primary object of the instant invention is to
provide a novel process and apparatus for taking body contour
measurements and producing a custom apparel form or last.
Another object is to provide a novel process whereby a custom
apparel form is produced by relatively unskilled workers.
Still another object is to provide a novel process for the rapid,
accurate production of a custom shoe-last.
A further object is to provide a novel construction for a foot
contour measuring device.
These objects as well as other objects of this invention will
become readily apparent after reading the following description of
the accompanying drawings in which:
FIG. 1 is a block diagram type flow chart, illustrating the novel
process of the instant invention when used for a custom
shoe-last.
FIG. 2 is a perspective of a custom shoe-last.
FIG. 3 is a perspective showing the probes of a measuring block
engaging one side of a foot.
FIG. 4 is a longitudinal cross-section through an air-pressure
operated piston-cylinder type capacitor having one of the measuring
probes extending axially from the piston.
FIG. 5 is a side elevation showing a foot positioning platform,
with measuring blocks mounted thereto for measuring the rear
contour and front upper contour of the foot.
FIG. 6 is a plan view of the foot positioning platform.
In accordance with the instant invention, the customer, with the
advice and guidance of an operator of a custom shoe store, selects
an appropriate style of shoe. The style number, together with the
customer's name and address, are entered by the store operator in
his records, and the style number is also entered in the material
which will be forwarded to a computer center.
The customer's foot 11 is placed on support platform 12 (FIG. 5)
and a foot or body contour measuring device 15 (FIG. 1), including
measuring blocks 15A, 15B, 15C is operated, in a manner to be
hereinafter explained, to produce electrical analog signals related
to foot or body contour measurements. Converter 16 transforms these
foot contour measurements to digital foot model data which is
recorded and stored on magnetic tape 17. The latter is mailed or
otherwise delivered to a computer center, where foot or body model
data on tape 17 is provided as an input to shoe-last information
computer 18. Magnetic tape 21, containing empirically derived style
model data, is taken from repository 22, and provides another input
for computer 18. Magnetic tape 21a, containing foot contour
measurements used previously to produce lasts for the style in
question, is taken from repository 22a and provides another input
for computer 18.
The foot contour data stored on tape 17 is first compared with the
data stored on tape 21a. If the last or form for making a desired
shoe style for a similar foot has already been constructed, the
information to retrieve that last is produced by computer 18. The
shoe is made over the previously constructed last and thus saves
the time and expense of producing an identical last.
If the information on tape 17 does not match up with information on
tape 21a, computer 18 combines the foot model data stored on
magnetic tape 17 and style model data stored on magnetic tape 21 in
accordance with a selected computer program to produce shoe-last
information which is recorded on the punch-tape output 22 of
computer 18. Punch-tape 22 is then used to control the operation of
automatic machine tool 20, having bit 23 which mills or cuts
rectangular wood-block 24, constituting a blank, to produce custom
shoe-last 25. The shape of shoe-last 25 is generally in the shape
of foot 11, but modified in accordance with the dictates of the
empirically derived style model data for the selected shoe
style.
The basic element of the measuring instrument 15 is the variable
capacitor 33 shown in FIG. 4. A stationary part of this capacitor
is a glass tube 29 with two metal deposit areas 27 and 28 on the
outside of the tube. Metal piston 30, closely fitted to the inside
diameter of the glass tube 29, constitutes the moving element. A
number of capacitors 33 are arranged in columns and rows supported
by the front and back insulating plates 36 and 37, respectively.
Needle-like probes 31, one of which is concentrically attached to
each piston 30 by an insulating sleeve 34, project from the block
15 through both front and back face plates 61 and 62 thereof. Face
plates 61 and 62 contain respective seal-bushings 39a, 39b, which
serve as pneumatic seals for the cylinder 29 and also as stops for
limiting the travel of piston 30. The front end of each probe 31 is
provided with rounded plastic tip 32 to lessen the discomfort upon
its contact with foot 11. Pneumatic pressure is applied to the
interior of cylinder 29 through ports 41a, 41b in the respective
front and back face plates 61 and 62, forcing piston 30 to move in
the direction of lower pressure.
To produce an electrical signal proportional to the location of tip
32 on probe 31 with respect to the fixed portions of measuring
block 15, metalized areas 27 and 28 are connected to electrical
oscillator 99 and the output signal from piston 30 is transmitted
through shielded cable 43 to converter 16. The center conductor of
cable 43 is threaded through probe 31, and the outer conductor of
cable 43 is attached to probe 31 and grounded, thereby providing an
electrical shield for the signal carrying conductor.
While air under pressure is fed simultaneously to all of the
capacitors 33 of measuring block 15, the electrical outputs
controlled by the individual capacitors 33 are measured
individually in a predetermined sequence under the control of a
multiplex selector (not shown) for ease in recording foot model
data on magnetic tape 17. In addition, for each position of
measuring block 15, two different position readings are taken for
each of the probes 31. One of the readings is taken when a first
magnitude of air pressure urges piston 34 to the left with respect
to FIG. 4, and a second reading for probe 31 is taken when a second
different pressure urges piston 34 to the left.
In FIG. 5 foot 11 is shown supported by interchangeable plate 51
which is mounted generally at the central portion of positioning
platform 12. The contour of the upper surface of plate 51 is
predetermined in accordance with the style of shoe for which the
customer is being measured. In general, heel height is controlling
for the contour of plate 51.
Bracket means 52, adjustably positionable on the upper surface of
platform 12, supports and positions measuring block 15A confronting
the side of foot 11 at the rear thereof. Another bracket means 53
supports and positions measuring block 15B, so that the probes
thereof engage the upper surface of foot 11 forward of the leg.
Bracket means 53 is provided with elongated slots 54 through which
clamping screws 55 extend, so that bracket means 53 may be
adjustably positioned on platform 12 by movement toward or away
from stationary bracket means 52. Elongated protrusion 56,
extending upward from platform 12 and parallel to slots 54, engages
a complementary cutout (not shown) in the bottom of bracket means
53 to guide the adjusting movement of the latter. Tapped holes 57
and elongated guide embossments 58 are provided for adjustable
mounting of the bracket means (not shown), which support measuring
blocks whose probes will engage the sides of foot 11.
Appropriate indicia (not shown) are marked on the upper surface of
platform 12 to indicate the positions of the movable bracket means
and foot locating posts 92, 93, 94. Information describing the
positions of the movable bracket means and foot locating posts is
recorded on magnetic tape 17 so as to be fed to computer 18,
together with the number of plate 51 which is also recorded on tape
17. Still another measuring block 15C is mounted to plate 95 at the
rear of foot 11. It is noted that all of the measuring blocks are
essentially of the same construction as measuring block 15 and that
the position of 15A is changed to take measurements at other
locations of the foot.
Even though the instant invention has hereinbefore been described
in connection with cutting by machine tool 20 of a positive form or
last, it should now be apparent to those skilled in the art that
the last or form information signals may be used to have tool 20
cut a negative form or cavity of a mold. This mold is then used to
cast the apparel form.
Although this invention has been described with respect to
particular embodiments, it should be understood that many
variations and modifications will now be obvious to those skilled
in the art and, therefore, the scope of this invention is limited
not by the specific disclosure herein but only by the appended
claims.
* * * * *