Presser Foot Deflecter Of A Fabric Edge In A Sewing Machine

Abstract

A presser foot deflector is provided for use with a two needle sewing machine to permit simultaneous assembly and serge stitching at the edges of a pair of fabrics to be seamed. The deflector includes a longitudinal guide channel located between a needle hole through which a first needle is moved to perform the assembly stitching and an opening through which a second needle is moved to perform the serge stitching. The guide channel receives the edge of the upper fabric and deflects the fabric edge upward to guide the edge between the needles to permit the second needle to apply serge stitching to the edge of the lower fabric and the first needle to simultaneously apply assembly stitching to the upper and lower fabrics to form a seam.

Description

The present invention relates to a presser foot deflecter of a fabric edge, already serged on its outside extremity, so that contemporaneously, with a single operation, said edge is sewn to one underneath and the latter is serged on its outside extremity.

This presser foot is particularly useful for trouser side seaming.

As known, the trouser side seaming provides a serging formation on each outside extremity of the two edges of fabric to be seamed and an assembling seaming formation parallel to said sergings.

Until now, serging and assembling seams were made in three distinct operations by employing at least two sewing machines of different types.

The purpose of the present invention is to eliminate one of serging operations by combining it with that, for example, of assembling so as to obtain the trouser side seaming with two simultaneous operations. In the assembly of trousers by the compound sewing operation, a pair of leg portions are joined by longitudinal straight seaming and only one of the leg portions is bound by overstitching with the other leg portion folded back.

To achieve this purpose, the technical problem to be solved was to deflect upwards one of the two fabric edges to be assembled, already serged previously or selveged in origin, so as to avoid any interference with the needle provided for serging the other edge and with the needle provided for assembling the two edges together.

For the solution of this technical problem a presser foot of the type mentioned is realized, wherein is provided a longitudinal guide channel placed between the hole for the needle passage for the assembly stitch and the needle passage opening for overedging seam of which the machine is provided; the longitudinal guide channel being provided for receiving and deflecting upwards the outside extremity of the upper fabric edge, making the work, to guide it between said sewing machine needles and keep it spaced from the outside extremity of the lower fabric edge which, therefore, can be serged by the right needle while the left one makes an assembling seaming uniting both said edges.

The main advantage of the present invention is due to the fact that now the trouser side seaming or other like seams can be made by employing the presser foot in question with a common two-needle sewing machine, of which, one for the assembling seaming formation and the other for the overedging formation. Another important advantage is due to the possibility of simultaneously sewing also lining or the single knee-lining to that fabric edge which is deflected upwards, as lining or knee-lining, usually of slippery material, can be joined to the above mentioned fabric edge in a previous operation so not to cause obstacles during the subsequent stitching operations.

Other characteristics and advantages of the presser foot in question will become apparent from the following detailed description of a preferred embodiment of realization which description is referred to the accompanying drawings, wherein:

FIG. 1 shows some components of the sewing machine among them a presser foot in accordance with the invention,

FIG. 2 shows the same presser foot as FIG. 1 sectioned to line II--II,

FIG. 3 shows a work fragment obtained by employing a presser foot according to the invention.

The presser foot deflecter 1 which is the object of the present invention, is fixed in a known manner to the usual presser bar 2 of the sewing machine and it is situated below the known needle bar 3 in which is mounted a needle clamp 4 equipped with needles 5 and 6.

The needle 5 cooperates with a conventional looptaker (not shown), in formation of a join seaming 7 on the work 8 which comprises two overlapped fabric plies 9 and 10.

The needle 6 cooperates with conventional primary and secondary loopers (primary looper not shown) in the formation of overedge stitch serging on the outside extremity of the lower fabric ply 10 only.

The presser foot deflecter 1 comprises a sole 12 and a bracket 13 which can be attached to the presser foot bar 2.

In alignment with needles 5 and 6, the sole 12 comprises a slightly lengthened hole 14 through which the left needle 5 passes during the formation of each assembling seam and an opening 15 through which the right needle 6 passes during the formation of each overedge stitch.

The opening 15 is delimited in its back part by a little supplementary sole 16 and in its forepart by a tongue 17, which as known, cooperates in making the above mentioned overedge stitching.

Said stitches are partially formed on a similar tongue of the usual needle plate, not shown, which is below the work 8, and partially on the tongue 17 on the same sole 12 of the presser foot 1.

Between the needle hole 14 and the opening 15, said sole comprises a guide channel 18, placed longitudinally for the whole length of the presser foot 1, said channel being interrupted on its upper part in correspondence to the needle hole 14 and to the opening 15 for letting the needle clamp 4 move downwards without any interference with said channel, during the work strokes. Due to the interruption, the longitudinal guide channel 18 ends on the back part of the sole 12 with a guide element 19 to which the little supplementary sole 16 is also joined.

The longitudinal channel 18, which is opened in its lower part, for its whole length is provided for receiving and deflecting upwards the outside extremity of the fabric upper edge 9 for guiding it between the two right and left needles 5 and 6 keeping it erect for the whole length of the sole 12. The upper edge 9, provided previously with serging 20 similar to serging 11, can, in case of need, be provided with a lining or a simple knee-lining which is joined to the edge by means of the same overedge stitch seam 20. In front of the presser foot is a guide 21 comprising a bracket 22, fitted so as to be adjustable on sewing machine, and a plate 23, substantially vertical, which is fixed on one of the extremities of the bracket 22 and is aligned with the longitudinal guide channel 18 to guide in the most appropriate way the initial part of the upper edge 9 and facilitate same entering the actual channel.

Particularly the plate 23 is level with the right wall 24 of said channel.

In the lower part, the bracket 22 comprises a vertical wall 25, displaced as regards the plate 23, and slide 26 making a lower channel in which the lower edge 10 only is made to slide for being directed towards the usual trimming knife, not shown, with which the sewing machine is provided.

At the beginning of the sewing operations, the outside extremity of the upper fabric edge 9, and the lining or knee-lining part if any, joined to it by serging 20, is made to slide first, on the plate 23 and then inserted into the longitudinal guide channel 18 where the right wall 24 keeps it erect and spaced from the underneath outside extremity 10, which, as consequence of this can be serged by the right needle 6.

The left wall 27 of the same channel 18, on the contrary, keeps the outside extremity of the above mentioned upper fabric edge 9, spaced from the left needle 5 also when the known secondary looper 28 which cooperates with the needle 6 in the overedge stitch formation, touches it during its upward stroke.

When the outside extremity (free edge or ply edge) of upper fabric ply 9 leaves the channel, on the rear part of the presser foot 1 the outside extremity of the upper fabric ply 9 bends freely down against the outside already serged extremity of the lower fabric ply 10 to which it is joined by the assembling seam 7. Therefore work 8 completed with two sergings 11 and 20 can be, with a subsequent operation, pressed open with the two outside extremities each folded back.

It is understood that the presser foot deflecter 1 can be employed also in manufacturing items different from trousers on condition that separate serging of the two edges to be assembled is foreseen.

Claims

I claim:

1. A presser foot for a sewing machine having a first needle and a looptaker cooperating in the formation of straight stitch join seaming, a second needle and primary and secondary loopers cooperating in the formation of overedge stitching, and common feed means for advancing work comprising two superposed fabric plies to be simultaneously seamed together and overedge stitched on an outside extremity of the lower ply, said presser foot comprising:

a sole having a needle hole for receiving the straight stitch needle and an opening in side edge thereof for receiving the overedge stitch needle and loopers; and

means forming a longitudinal guide channel on said sole located between said needle hole and said opening and disposed parallel to the straight stitch join seaming, said longitudinal guide channel comprising separate front and rear portions longitudinally aligned on opposite sides of the needles for guiding the outside extremity of the upper ply between the needles.

2. The presser foot of claim 1, wherein each of the aligned portions of said longitudinal guide channel comprises a pair of spaced vertical walls having a depth substantially equal to the width of the margin between the outer edge of the ply to be overedge stitched and the straight stitch join seaming.

3. The presser foot of claim 1, which includes a tongue projecting rearward from the front portion of said guide channel for making the overedge stitching and a supplementary sole mounted on the rear portion of said guide channel, said tongue and supplementary sole defining said opening for receiving the overedge stitch needle and loopers.

4. In a sewing machine having a first needle and a looptaker cooperating in the formation of straight stitch join seaming, a second needle and primary and secondary loopers cooperating in the formation of overedge stitching, and common feed means for advancing work comprising two superposed fabric plies to be simultaneously seamed together and over edge stitched on an outside extremity of the lower ply:

a presser foot comprising

a. a sole having a needle hole for receiving the straight stitch needle and an opening in a side edge thereof for receiving the overedge stitch needle and loopers and

b. means forming a longitudinal guide channel on said sole located between said needle hole and said opening and disposed parallel to the straight stitch join seaming, said longitudinal guide channel comprising separate front and rear portions longitudinally aligned on opposite sides of the needles for guiding the outside extremity of the upper ply between the needles; and

a guide member including a substantially vertical plate located in front of said presser foot in alignment with said longitudinal guide channel for guiding the outside extremity of the upper ply into said guide channel.

5. The combination of claim 4, wherein said guide member includes a slide to provide a lower channel in said guide member for receiving the outside extremity of the lower ply.