U.S. patent number 3,654,936 [Application Number 05/085,276] was granted by the patent office on 1972-04-11 for process for straightening human hair.
This patent grant is currently assigned to Wella Aktiengesellschaft. Invention is credited to Theodor Wajaroff.
United States Patent |
3,654,936 |
Wajaroff |
April 11, 1972 |
PROCESS FOR STRAIGHTENING HUMAN HAIR
Abstract
Human hair is straightened by a two-stage process wherein the
hair is first submitted to the action of a keratin softener and
after removal of at least part of the softener from the hair is
then treated with a swelling or penetration-promoting agent, while
being straightened mechanically. The hair is finally subjected to
the action of a fixation or neutralizing agent. The treatment
reduces damage to the hair due to chemical or mechanical
action.
Inventors: |
Wajaroff; Theodor (Darmstadt,
DT) |
Assignee: |
Wella Aktiengesellschaft
(Darmstadt, DT)
|
Family
ID: |
5750289 |
Appl.
No.: |
05/085,276 |
Filed: |
October 29, 1970 |
Foreign Application Priority Data
|
|
|
|
|
Nov 6, 1969 [DT] |
|
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P 19 55 823.7 |
|
Current U.S.
Class: |
132/204;
424/70.4; 424/70.5 |
Current CPC
Class: |
A61Q
5/04 (20130101); A61K 8/4926 (20130101); A61K
8/23 (20130101); A61K 8/46 (20130101); A61K
8/42 (20130101); A61K 8/416 (20130101) |
Current International
Class: |
A45D
7/00 (20060101); A45d 007/00 () |
Field of
Search: |
;132/7,1 ;424/72 |
References Cited
[Referenced By]
U.S. Patent Documents
Primary Examiner: Mancene; Louis G.
Assistant Examiner: McNeill; Gregory E.
Claims
What is claimed as new and desired to be protected by Letters
Patent is set forth in the appended claims is:
1. A process for straightening human hair, comprising subjecting
the hair first to the action of a keratin softener, then removing
the major part of the softener from the hair, thereafter treating
the hair with a swelling or penetration-promoting agent while
straightening it mechanically.
2. The process of claim 1, wherein the mechanical straightening is
effected by repeatedly combing the hair.
3. The process of claim 1, wherein the hair after treating it with
the swelling or penetration-promoting agent is subjected to the
action of a fixation or neutralizing agent.
4. The process of claim 1, wherein the keratin softener is selected
from the group consisting of alkali hydroxides, alkali sulfites,
ammonium sulfites, alkali bisulfites, ammonium bisulfites, and
water-soluble salts of mercapto carboxylic acids.
5. The process of claim 4, wherein the keratin softener includes
thioglycolic acid, sodium hydroxide or an aqueous ammonium sulfite
solution as part of the active ingredient.
6. The process of claim 1, wherein the swelling or
penetration-promoting agent is selected from the group consisting
of monobasic aliphatic alcohols of two to four carbon atoms,
aromatic alcohols, aliphatic diols, aliphatic diols of five to six
carbon atoms, ether alcohols of five to six carbon atoms,
water-soluble sulfoxides, water-soluble sulfones, water-soluble
rhodanides, thiourea, urea, water-soluble derivatives of thiourea,
water-soluble derivatives of urea and mixtures of the
compounds.
7. The process of claim 6, wherein the swelling and
penetration-promoting agent includes at least one of the following:
urea, methylurea, thiourea, potassium rhodanide, sulfone or
dimethylsulfoxide as part of the active ingredients.
8. The process of claim 1, wherein the keratin softener is
permitted to act upon the hair for a period of 5-8 minutes during
which period the hair is not subjected to combing or other
mechanical action.
9. The process of claim 1, wherein the swelling or
penetration-promoting agent is permitted to act upon the hair for a
period of 3-10 minutes during which time the hair is repeatedly
combed.
10. The process of claim 1, wherein the total swelling or
penetration-promoting agent is applied in a concentration between 5
and 30 percent by weight.
11. The process of claim 1, wherein the keratin softener is applied
in the form of a paste or cream.
12. The process of claim 1, wherein the keratin softener is applied
in a composition of a pH range between about 5 and 13.5.
Description
BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION
To straighten curly human hair, compositions are usually employed
which contain keratin softening agents such as alkali hydroxides,
sulfites or bisulfites, or salts of mercapto carboxylic acids.
These compositions are usually in the form of pastes or creams and
are applied to the individual strands of the dry hair or to hair
which is still wet from a pre-washing with a shampoo. The cream in
this case must be distributed on the hair as uniformly as possible
by application by hand or with a comb. The cream is permitted to
act on the hair for a time between 10 and 60 minutes. During this
time, the hair must be smoothed out from time to time with the
fingers of the operator or with a comb until the desired
straightening is accomplished. Subsequently, the hair is thoroughly
rinsed with water in order to remove the straightening agents from
the hair. The final step is a neutralization stage wherein, if the
straightening agent contained alkali hydroxide, the hair is treated
with acid, while in the case of reducing sulfites or bisulfites or
mercapto carboxylic acid salts the aftertreatment is effected with
an oxidizing agent, such as hydrogen peroxide, a perborate or a
bromate.
The straightening effect that can be obtained in this process
depends largely on the treatment time for the straightening agent,
the concentration of the keratin softening agent, and the pH of the
composition. In order to obtain an adequate and long-acting
straightening of the hair, it is necessary that the agent has a
sufficiently high effective concentration and a suitable pH value
and is permitted to act long enough upon the hair. The hair keratin
is softened to an increasing degree during the treatment time and
thus steadily loses strength so that it can be mechanically
smoothed out from time to time by hand or with a comb.
With this type of chemical and mechanical treatment applied to the
hair, damage to the hair is frequently unavoidable and appears as
breaking of the hair and loss of hair. Additionally, the hands of
the operator, as well as the scalp of the customer, are frequently
affected.
Attempts have been made to improve the action of the described
hair-straightening operation by adding to the straightening agent
hair-swelling compounds such as urea, formamide, acetamide,
urethane and similar materials. While this permitted to shorten the
treatment time and to lower the concentration of effective agent
and the pH, no substantial improvement could be obtained in so far
as the injury to the hair and skin was concerned because in this
case the keratin softening and swelling compounds were permitted to
act upon the hair simultaneously, resulting in an increased stress
for the hair. This applies also to the process described in German
published application 1,467,912 where the hair-softening agent and
the swelling agent are kept separate but are combined shortly
before the straightening treatment is initiated.
It is therefore an object of the present invention to provide for a
hair-straightening operation which avoids the aforementioned hair
and skin damage, or reduces them substantially.
SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION
This is accomplished by a two-stage process wherein, in the first
stage, the hair is subjected to the action of a keratin softener
which is then removed at least partly whereupon, in a second stage,
the hair is treated with a swelling or penetration-promoting agent
while being straightened out mechanically. At the end of the
process, the hair may be subjected to a fixation or neutralizing
treatment in conventional manner.
DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION AND OF PREFERRED
EMBODIMENTS
The straightening agents used in the first stage of the process may
be alkali hydroxides such as sodium hydroxide or potassium
hydroxide. If sulfites or bisulfites are used, they may be used in
the form of the alkali or ammonium salts. If a mercapto carboxylic
acid is used, the preferred compounds would be thioglycolic acid
and thiolactic acid which can be used in the form of their
water-soluble salts, for instance as ammonium-, alkali- or
monoethanolamine salts.
The time of treatment with the keratin-softening agent is
preferably between 5 and 8 minutes. During this time a mechanical
action affecting the hair or skin is preferably avoided. This is
possible because the customary repeated smoothing of the hair with
a comb or by hand is not necessary in case of the present invention
during this stage of the treatment. Only at the end of the
treatment the major part of the straightening agent may be removed
by combing the hair.
In the second stage the swelling or penetration-promoting agents
are applied to the hair which, however, are physiologically
harmless both for the hair and the skin. Preferably, this stage is
carried out by treatment for about 3 to 10 minutes, during which
time the hair is repeatedly thoroughly combed. This will hardly
affect the hair.
The process according to the present invention permits to apply the
keratin-softening agent in the first stage at a substantially lower
concentration of effective agent, at a lower pH value, and for a
shorter time of treatment. Thus, the hair and skin are chemically
substantially less affected, and the agent in this treatment is
therefore physiologically more compatible with the body. However,
with these comparatively low values of concentration, pH and
treatment time a suffient straightening could not be obtained by
conventional straightening processes.
Surprisingly, it was found out, however, that if following this
first stage the straightening agent is largely removed from the
hair and the hair subsequently treated with a composition
containing hair-swelling agents or penetration-promoting agents, a
sufficient straightening effect can be obtained. This is all the
more surprising since the agents employed in the second stage by
themselves have no straightening effect.
The swelling or penetration-promoting agents may be in particular
lower monohydric aliphatic alcohols of two to four carbon atoms,
aromatic alcohols such as particularly benzyl alcohols, aliphatic
diols or ether alcohols of five to six carbon atoms, water-soluble
sulfoxides and sulfones, water-soluble rhodanides, thiourea, as
well as urea and water-soluble derivatives of thiourea and
urea.
The important point for the selection of the listed compounds is
that they are adapted to increase the hair-straightening effect of
the keratin-softening agents because of their swelling or
penetration-promoting properties. These compounds can either be
used in the compositions of the second state singly or in mixture.
The total concentration preferably is between 5 and 30 percent by
weight.
The concentration of the keratin softener preferably is 1 to 13
percent, the pH 5 to 13.5.
There are variations possible in the described process, depending
on the different structure and type of the naturally curly hair.
Ordinarily, the process is carried out at room temperature.
However, sometimes the application of heat may be advantageous.
It will be understood that the agents used in the two stages of the
process according to the present invention may be applied in the
conventional form as used in the cosmetics industry, for instance
as solutions, emulsions, creams or gels. It is preferred, however,
to employ the hair-straightening agent in the first stage in a form
where it has a thickened consistency, for instance as a cream. In
the second stage, the compositions can be used both as liquid
preparations and as preparations of a higher consistency.
In both stages of the process, the usual additives as employed in
the cosmetics industry may be added, such as solution promoters,
perfume oils, thickeners, hair conditioners such as lanolin and
lecithin, as well as wetting agents and other customary materials.
It is also possible, by addition of oxidative or direct dyes, to
obtain simultaneously a dyeing of the hair.
The invention will be further illustrated by the following
examples:
EXAMPLE 1
A cream was formed of the following composition:
8.0 g thioglycolic acid 5.4 g cetyl alcohol 1.8 g paraffin oil 3.9
g oleyl alcohol, with 20 mole ethylene oxide oxyethylated 1.5 g
colloidal silicic acid 12.3 g ammonia (25%) 67.1 g water Total:
100.0 g
The cream contained 9.3 percent ammonium thioglycolate, 1.6 percent
free ammonia and had a pH value of 9.6
The cream was applied to the individual strands of the hair, which
had previously been washed with a shampoo. It was easily
distributed in this manner onto the hair. After a treatment time of
5 minutes, the major part of the composition was removed by
combing.
In the second stage of the process a composition of the following
composition was applied to the hair: ##SPC1##
After a treatment time of 5-7 minutes, during which time the hair
was repeatedly thoroughly combed, the hair was then thoroughly
rinsed with water, whereupon a fixation agent was applied in the
form of 100 ml of a 2 percent hydrogen peroxide solution.
The hair was in this manner thoroughly and lastingly straightened
without damage.
The same results were also obtained by using in the first stage a
similar composition of a lower pH value and permitting it to act
upon the hair somewhat longer, that is, for 8 minutes.
This composition was likewise in the form of a cream and was as
follows:
8.0 g thioglycolic acid 5.4 g cetyl alcohol 1.8 g paraffin oil 3.9
g oleyl alcohol, with, mole 20 ethylene oxide oxyethylated 1.5 g
colloidal silicic acid 5.9 g ammonia (25%) 5.5 g ammonium
bicarbonate 68.0 g water Total: 100.0 g
The cream contained 9.3 percent ammonium thioglycolate and had a pH
of 8.2. The further treatment was exactly as in Example 1.
EXAMPLE 2
A hair-straightening composition of the consistency of a gel was
applied which was composed as follows:
5.0 g sodium hydroxide 5.0 g tragacanth 90.0 g water Total: 100.0
g
The pH of this composition was 13.2. The composition was applied to
the curly hair and was uniformly spread on the hair. It was
permitted to act for 5 minutes, whereupon the major part of it was
removed by combing. Thereafter, a gel-type composition was applied
as follows:
1.5 g "Carbopol 960" of the Goodrich Company (ammonium salt of a
carboxyvinylpolymerizate) 69.5 g water 3.5 g urea 10.5 g
2,2-dimethyl-1,3-propane diol 15.0 g isopropyl alcohol Total: 100.0
g
The composition was permitted to remain on the hair for 4 minutes
while the hair was several times subjected to combing.
Subsequently, the hair was thoroughly rinsed with water. The hair
thus was straightened perfectly and with lasting effect without any
damage.
The same results were obtained by employing, again, in the first
stage, a corresponding composition having a lower alkali contents
but applying it for a slightly longer period of time, that is for 7
minutes. This composition consisted of the following:
2.0 g sodium hydroxide 5.0 g tragacanth 93.0 g water Total: 100.0
g
The pH of this composition was 12.8.
The further treatment was the same as in Example 2. The hair was
finally subjected to a neutralizing treatment with citric acid of a
3 percent concentration.
EXAMPLE 3
A gel-type straightening agent was used of the following
composition:
36.5 g 35% concentration aqueous ammonium sulfite solution (density
1.18 with 22.7 g S0.sub.2 per 100 ml) 3.5 g "Carbopol 960"
(ammonium salt of a carboxyvinyl polymerizate) 60.0 g water Total:
100.0 g
The composition was applied to the curly hair which had previously
been shampooed and was spread easily. After a treatment time of 15
minutes, the gel was for the most part removed by combing.
Subsequently, a cream was applied to the hair which cream had the
following composition:
20.5 g cetylstearyl alcohol 2.5 g sodium lauryl sulfate 4.0 g
"Texapon N 25" of the Dehydag Company (an aqueous sodium
laurylether sulfate solution containing 28% of this compound) 53.0
g water 6.0 g benzyl alcohol 14.0 g ammonium rhodanide Total: 100.0
g
The composition was permitted to act upon the hair for 10 minutes,
during which time the hair was repeatedly combed. The composition
was then rinsed out thoroughly with water.
A fixation rinse of conventional form was then applied in form of a
solution of 8.4 g of perborax containing 17.3 percent oxygen
[Na.sub.2 B.sub.4 O.sub.7 .sup.. (H.sub.2 O.sub.2 ).sub.3.sub.-4 ]
dissolved in 500 ml. water.
There was thus produced an adequate and lasting straightening of
the hair without damage.
The following examples, Examples 4-9, describe alternative
compositions which may be used in the second stage of the process
of the invention. In the first stage any of the keratin-softening
agents disclosed in Examples 1-3 may be employed.
EXAMPLE 4
A solid mixture of 25 g urea and 5 g potassium rhodanide which is
dissolved prior to use in 70 ml water.
EXAMPLE 5
A powder formed of 12 g of dimethylsulfone which is dissolved prior
to use in 88 ml water.
EXAMPLE 6
A solution of 5 g methyl urea, 6 g hexanediol--1,6 and 8 g
n-propylalcohol dissolved in 81 ml water.
EXAMPLE 7
A solution of 2 g of lauryl pyridinium chloride and 18 g
3-methoxybutanol-1 in 80 ml water.
EXAMPLE 8
In this case a composition was applied in the second stage of the
process according to the present invention which included a dye for
the hair. The composition was composed as follows:
9.0 g cetylstearyl alcohol 0.5 g lanolin 1.0 g sodium lauryl
sulfate 8.0 g pinacol 8.0 g ethyl alcohol 12.0 g urea 0.5 g perfume
oil 0.05 g"Acilanbraun R," extra high concentration (Bayer Company,
Color Index No. 14,805 ) 61.0 g water
Application of this composition resulted in a red-brown color for
the hair.
EXAMPLE 9
A composition was applied in this example which likewise dyed the
hair. It was as follows:
12.0 g urea 10.0 g dimethylsulfoxide 0.015 g "Acilan black 10 B" of
the Bayer Company (Color Index No. 20,470) 0.03 g "Acilan brown R,"
extra high concentration (Bayer Co., Color Index No. 14,805) 75.0 g
water
This composition resulted in a brown-to-black color for the
hair.
EXAMPLE 10
This example likewise involved a composition by which the hair was
simultaneously dyed. It was as follows: ##SPC2##
Fixation was then effected with a solution as disclosed in Example
1. The hair thus was given a brown color.
All percentages in the above examples are by weight.
Without further analysis, the foregoing will so fully reveal the
gist of the present invention that others can, by applying current
knowledge, readily adapt it for various applications without
omitting features that, from the stadpoint of prior art, fairly
constitute essential characteristics of the generic or specific
aspects of this invention and, therefore, such adaptations should
and are intended to be comprehended within the meaning and range of
equivalence of the following claims.
* * * * *