U.S. patent number 3,604,015 [Application Number 04/769,936] was granted by the patent office on 1971-09-14 for wearing apparel.
This patent grant is currently assigned to Courtaulds Limited. Invention is credited to Michael D. Dove.
United States Patent |
3,604,015 |
Dove |
September 14, 1971 |
**Please see images for:
( Certificate of Correction ) ** |
WEARING APPAREL
Abstract
A continuous process for manufacturing briefs in which a flat
blank is formed having side edges with leg-shape cutouts and end
edges destined to form the waist. Elastic is bound to the leg holes
and the end edges under controlled tension, and the blank is folded
and the sides joined to form the garment.
Inventors: |
Dove; Michael D. (Hertford,
EN) |
Assignee: |
Courtaulds Limited (London,
EN)
|
Family
ID: |
10449730 |
Appl.
No.: |
04/769,936 |
Filed: |
October 23, 1968 |
Foreign Application Priority Data
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Oct 26, 1967 [GB] |
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48738/67 |
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Current U.S.
Class: |
2/402; 156/227;
2/406; 156/163; 156/256; 156/292 |
Current CPC
Class: |
A41B
9/001 (20130101); Y10T 156/1051 (20150115); Y10T
156/1062 (20150115) |
Current International
Class: |
A41B
9/00 (20060101); A41b 009/04 () |
Field of
Search: |
;2/224A,224,243,225,226
;112/121.12 ;128/288 |
References Cited
[Referenced By]
U.S. Patent Documents
Foreign Patent Documents
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1,258,338 |
|
Mar 1961 |
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FR |
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1,495,763 |
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Aug 1967 |
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FR |
|
Primary Examiner: Hunter; H. Hampton
Claims
What is claimed is:
1. A continuous process for the manufacture of briefs, overlying
substantially rectangular fabric pieces, comprising cutting out
portions from opposite sides of each piece to form leg-shape
margins, fixing an elastic strip under tension to each leg-shape
margin and to each of the opposite ends of the piece, then, with
each elastic strip held in a stretched state sufficient to prevent
any significant puckering of the fabric adjacent to the elastic
strips, folding the piece along a line passing through the
leg-shape margins to bring the ends of the piece into overlying
relationship and joining the edges of the overlying sides to form
hip-clinging portions of the briefs.
2. A process as claimed in claim 1 in which the fabric piece is
clamped in a flat state between two plate members with marginal
portions of the piece exposed at the periphery of the plate members
during the cutting out of the portions to form the leg-shape
margins and during the operation attaching the elastic strips.
3. A process as claimed in claim 1 in which the elastic strips
fitted under tension to the leg-shaped margins and to the opposite
ends of the piece are permitted to relax after being fastened to
the piece and are then brought to the required stretched state
prior to the folding and side-joining operation by grippers which
grip the elastic strip adjacent each end and then move
outwardly.
4. A process as claimed in claim 1 in which the piece is folded by
securing to a folding frame having holding means mounted thereon
for holding each elastic strip in the stretched state during the
folding operation.
5. A process as claimed in claim 1 in which the cutting out of each
portion to form a leg-shape margin is carried out immediately prior
to sewing the elastic strip on the leg-shape margin.
6. A process as claimed in claim 1 in which each end of the piece
is trimmed immediately prior to an elastic strip being
attached.
7. A continuous process for the manufacture of briefs which
comprises forming from a fabric, a blank having first and second
parallel edges and third and fourth edges substantially parallel to
one another and orthogonal to said first and second edges, said
third and fourth edges having cutout portions with leg-shape
margins, fixing an elastic strip, under tension, to each leg-shape
margin and to said first and second edges, then, with each elastic
strip held in a stretched state sufficient to prevent significant
puckering of the fabric adjacent said strips, folding the blank
along a line passing through the leg-shape margins to bring said
first and second edges into overlying relationship and joining
portions of the third and fourth edges not cut out to form
hip-clinging portions of the briefs.
Description
This invention relates to wearing apparel and in particular to a
continuous process for the manufacture of briefs which hitherto
have been made up by semimanual methods.
According to the present invention, a continuous process for the
manufacture of briefs from substantially rectangular fabric pieces
comprises forming a blank by cutting out portions from opposite
sides of each piece to form leg-shape margins, fixing an elastic
strip under tension to each leg-shape margin and to each of the
opposite ends of the piece, then, with each elastic strip held in a
stretched state sufficient to prevent any significant puckering of
the fabric adjacent to the elastic strips, folding the piece about
a line passing through the leg-shape margins to bring the ends of
the piece into overlying relationship and joining the edges of the
overlying sides to form the hip-clinging portions of the
garment.
The expression "briefs" includes not only those women's
undergarments which are also known as "panties" but also includes
babies' pants and like articles having elastic strips at the waist
and leg holes.
The expression "fabric piece" includes pieces of textile fabrics
such as knitted, woven or nonwoven fabrics formed from natural or
synthetic fibers or mixture thereof or pieces of films of synthetic
plastics or cellulosic materials which are either plain or are
perforated or embossed to simulate textile fabrics.
The piece may have two parallel end edges and two side edges
substantially parallel to each other and orthogonal to the end
edges.
The textile fabrics are preferably stretch fabrics, that is formed
of stretch yarns which confer upon the fabrics an appreciable
degree of elasticity and permit briefs formed therefrom to cover a
large range of sizes without the necessity to alter the basic
unstretched size of the garment. This reduces the number of
interchangeable machine parts required to cover the whole range of
sizes of briefs.
The fabric pieces may conveniently be cut from a roll at the start
of the continuous process or they may be previously stacked in cut
form.
For the cutting out of the portions from the fabric piece to form
the leg-shape margins and for the operation of attaching the
elastic strips by sewing or other means to the leg-shape margins
and to the ends, the piece may conveniently be clamped in a flat
state between two plate members with marginal portions of the piece
exposed at the periphery of the plate members. The cutting out of
each portion may be carried out by shaped guillotinelike knives but
is conveniently carried out by a knife carried as a forward
attachment upon a travelling thread-stitching machine which is
guided by a template or other mechanism along a predetermined path
and which sews the elastic strip to the newly formed leg-shape
margin. Similarly, a travelling thread-stitching machine may be
used for sewing an elastic strip to each end of the piece.
Conveniently, the end may be trimmed immediately prior to an
elastic strip being attached, this trimming being effected with a
knife mounted as a forward attachment upon the thread-stitching
machine.
The elastic strips fastened to the leg-shape margins and to the
ends of the fabric piece are tensioned while undergoing fastening
to the piece to ensure that when released they confer the property
of elasticity and cling to the waistline edge and leg-hole edges of
the finished garment. This tensioning, however, has the
disadvantage that when the elastic strips are released and relax,
they pucker the fabric so that the piece cannot lie flat and
consequently cannot readily be folded into an edge to edge
relationship as required for the next joining operation. It is
therefore an important feature of the invention that during at
least the folding operation, each elastic strip is held in a
stretched state sufficient to eliminate any significant puckering
of the fabric so that the piece can be smoothly folded to bring the
ends and the sides together in a neat flat overlying
relationship.
Each elastic strip fitted under tension to the leg-shaped margins
and to the opposite ends of the piece may be maintained in the
stretched state after being fastened under tension to the piece,
for the folding and sides-joining operation. Alternatively, each
elastic strip may be permitted to relax after being fastened to the
piece and is then brought to a stretched state prior to the folding
and sides-joining operation to eliminate puckering of the piece
during folding. In one preferred form of the invention, each
elastic strip is stretched longitudinally to the required degree by
grippers which grip the elastic strip adjacent each end and then
move outwardly. The fabric piece is then transferred to a folding
frame member having holding means mounted thereon which hold the
elastic strips and maintain them in the stretched state during the
folding operation. The frame member is conveniently made in two
parts which may be hinged so that the piece can be folded as
required. Convenient holding means for holding the elastic strips
in the required stretched state are pins which pierce the elastic
strips. Other holding means such as clamps, toothed bars or
serrated bars may be used.
For the operation of joining the edges of the overlying sides it is
preferable to clamp the pieces between two suitably shaped plates
with the edges to be joined extending from the edges of the plates.
The clamping is carried out while the elastic strips are still held
by the holding means and then the holding means are withdrawn.
The joining of the elastic strips to the piece and the joining of
the edges of the overlying sides are conveniently carried out by
sewing. However, joining may be carried out by other means, such as
by the use of adhesive, or if the fabric piece is thermoplastic,
for example thermoplastic film, joining of the elastic strips
and/or joining of the edges of the overlying sides may be carried
out by heat welding.
One method of manufacturing briefs in accordance with the invention
will now be specifically described with reference to the
accompanying drawings, in which:
FIG. 1 is a series of diagrammatic plans of the processing steps of
the method,
FIG. 2 is a plan of a gripper, and
FIG. 3 is a front elevation of FIG. 2.
Referring to FIG. 1, a rectangular piece 1 of stretch textile
fabric is provided at step A, either by severance from a
continuance roll of material or from a stack of precut pieces. The
piece 1 is brought to step B and clamped between two shaped plates
2 of which only the upper plate 2 can be seen in the drawing. The
piece 1 is brought to the plates 2 by a transporting plate (not
shown) or by one of the plates 2 to which it is held by suction or
by outwardly inclined retractable pins, during the move.
Portions 3, 4 of the piece 1 protruding from each end of the plates
2 are trimmed and elastic strips 5, 6 (step C) are sewn under
tension to the edge of each portion 3, 4 by three or four
thread-stitching machines 7, 8 carrying cutters (not shown)
immediately before the stitching needles. At the same time (step B)
two similar three or four thread-stitching machines 9, 10 with
cutters (not shown) and with a supply of elastic strip are caused
to follow the profile of cutouts 11, 12 in the plates 2 whereby
leg-shape margins are formed in the piece 1 and are edged with
elastic strips 13, 14 under tension as shown at step C. Waste
fabric cutouts 11' , 12' are drawn away by suction means (not
shown) in which the suction effect can be adjusted as required to
ensure efficient removal of the cutouts 11', 12' without
undesirable stretching and displacement of the fabric in front of
the cutters. On severance of the elastic strips 5, 6, 13, 14 from
the supply at the thread-stitching machines 7, 8, 9, 10, the strips
5, 6, 13, 14 relax and pucker the portions of the piece 1, to which
they are sewn, as far as the plates 2 allow. If the plates 2 were
removed, the piece 1 would curl considerably under the influence of
the relaxed elastic strips 5, 6, 13, 14.
At step D, the relaxed strips 5, 6, 13, 14 are each gripped by
pairs of grippers 15 near the ends of the strips 5, 6, 13, 14 and
the grippers of each pair are then moved apart (step E) to stretch
the strips 5, 6, 13, 14 until puckering is removed.
The piece 1 is now transferred to a center-hinged folding frame 16
having eight pins 17 which pierce the elastic strips 5, 6, 13, 14
held in the grippers 15 through slots 18 (shown in FIGS. 2, 3)
formed in the grippers 15 and associated baseplates 19 (step F).
The grippers 15 then relax and slide away from the pins 17 and the
plates 2 are removed leaving the piece 1 pinned with the elastic
strips 5, 6, 13, 14 in a tensioned state to the frame 16 as shown
at step G.
The piece 1 is then folded along a line passing through the
leg-shape margins by folding the frame 16 about its hinge 20 until
the elastic strips 5, 6 lie one above the other (Step H). The
folded piece 1 is then gripped between two further plates 21 (Step
I) from the edges of which protrude the overlying sides 22, 23 of
the piece 1. The pins 17 are now withdrawn from the piece and the
frame 16 removed. The overlying sides 22, 23 and the ends of the
ends of the elastic strips 5, 6 are joined by overlock sewing
machines 24, 25 and the stitching bar tacked by machines 26,
27.
On removal of the plates 21 the finished briefs 28 are released,
turned outside in and delivered to a collection receptacle 29 at
Step J.
The procedure is performed as a continuous process, in which the
various plates, sewing machines and frame perform their various
functions on successive fabric pieces.
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