U.S. patent application number 17/694821 was filed with the patent office on 2022-06-30 for compositions for altering the color of hair.
The applicant listed for this patent is L'OREAL. Invention is credited to Fabien BOULINEAU, Aurelie CAMBLONG, Agathe LAHAYE, Sarah Barrie MACHOVER, Karl WUNSCH.
Application Number | 20220202676 17/694821 |
Document ID | / |
Family ID | |
Filed Date | 2022-06-30 |
United States Patent
Application |
20220202676 |
Kind Code |
A1 |
MACHOVER; Sarah Barrie ; et
al. |
June 30, 2022 |
COMPOSITIONS FOR ALTERING THE COLOR OF HAIR
Abstract
The present disclosure relates to color-altering compositions.
The compositions comprise a hair color-altering agent and at least
one carboxylic acid. Certain compositions further comprise at least
one amino acid or amino sulfonic acid, and/or a salt thereof
selected from the group consisting of taurine, aspartic acid,
cysteine, lysine, methionine, tyrosine, phenylalanine, carnitine, a
salt thereof, and a mixture thereof. Also provided are kits and
methods of using said color-altering compositions.
Inventors: |
MACHOVER; Sarah Barrie; (New
York, NY) ; WUNSCH; Karl; (Paris, FR) ;
CAMBLONG; Aurelie; (Asnieres sur Seine, FR) ; LAHAYE;
Agathe; (Levallois, FR) ; BOULINEAU; Fabien;
(Livingston, NJ) |
|
Applicant: |
Name |
City |
State |
Country |
Type |
L'OREAL |
Paris |
|
FR |
|
|
Appl. No.: |
17/694821 |
Filed: |
March 15, 2022 |
Related U.S. Patent Documents
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Application
Number |
Filing Date |
Patent Number |
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16234883 |
Dec 28, 2018 |
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17694821 |
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62611865 |
Dec 29, 2017 |
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International
Class: |
A61K 8/46 20060101
A61K008/46; A61K 8/44 20060101 A61K008/44; A61K 8/92 20060101
A61K008/92; A61K 8/362 20060101 A61K008/362; A61K 8/19 20060101
A61K008/19; A61K 8/23 20060101 A61K008/23; A61K 8/365 20060101
A61K008/365; A61K 8/41 20060101 A61K008/41; A61K 8/81 20060101
A61K008/81; A61Q 5/08 20060101 A61Q005/08; A61Q 5/10 20060101
A61Q005/10 |
Claims
1-27. (canceled)
28. A hair color-altering composition comprising: at least one
amino acid or amino sulfonic acid chosen from taurine, aspartic
acid, cysteine, lysine, methionine, tyrosine, phenylalanine,
carnitine, aminomethane sulfonic acid, aminopropane sulfonic acid,
aminobutane sulfonic acid, aminohexane sulfonic acid,
aminoisopropyl sulfonic acid, aminododecyl sulfonic acid,
aminobenzene sulfonic acid, aminotoulene sulfonic acid, sulfanilic
acid, chlorosulfanilic acid, diamino benzene sulfonic acid, amino
phenol sulfonic acid, amino propyl benzene sulfonic acid, amino
hexyl benzene sulfonic acid, salts thereof, or mixtures thereof; at
least one carboxylic acid chosen from oxalic acid, malonic acid,
glutaric acid, succinic acid, adipic acid, glycolic acid, citric
acid, tartaric acid, malic acid, sebacic acid, fumaric acid,
benzoic acid, citraconic acid, aconitic acid,
propane-1,2,3-tricarboxylic acid, trimesic acid, salts thereof, or
mixtures thereof; at least one alkalizing agent; optionally, at
least one hair color-altering agent chosen from oxidative dyes,
direct dyes, or mixtures thereof; and water.
29. The hair color-altering composition of claim 28, wherein the at
least one amino acid or amino sulfonic acid thereof is chosen from
taurine and salts thereof.
30. The hair color-altering composition of claim 28, wherein the
total amount of amino acid, amino sulfonic acids, and salts thereof
ranges from about 0.01 wt. % to about 10 wt. %, relative to the
total weight of the composition.
31. The hair color-altering composition of claim 28, wherein the
total amount of amino acids, amino sulfonic acids, and salts
thereof ranges from about 0.01 wt. % to about 5 wt. %, relative to
the total weight of the composition.
32. The hair color-altering composition of claim 28, wherein the
total amount of carboxylic acids and salts thereof ranges from
about 0.01 wt. % to about 10 wt. %, relative to the total weight of
the composition.
33. The hair color-altering composition of claim 28, wherein the
total amount of carboxylic acids and salts thereof ranges from
about 0.01 wt. % to about 7 wt. %, relative to the total weight of
the composition.
34. The hair color-altering composition of claim 28, wherein the at
least one carboxylic acid is chosen from tricarboxylic acids and/or
salts thereof.
35. The hair color-altering composition of claim 28, wherein the
carboxylic acid is chosen from citric acid, isocitric acid,
aconitic acid, propane-1,2,3-tricarboxylic acid, trimesic acid,
salts thereof, or mixtures thereof.
36. The hair color-altering composition of claim 35, wherein the
carboxylic acid and/or salt thereof is chosen from citric acid
and/or salts thereof.
37. The hair color-altering composition of claim 28, further
comprising at least one oxidizing agent.
38. The hair color-altering composition of claim 28, wherein the at
least one alkalizing agent is chosen from alkali metal carbonates,
alkali metal phosphates, organic amines, hydroxide base compounds,
or mixtures thereof.
39. The hair color-altering composition of claim 28, wherein the at
least one alkalizing agent is chosen from ammonium hydroxide,
monoethanolamine, or mixtures thereof.
40. The hair color-altering composition of claim 28, further
comprising at least one fatty compound chosen from oils, mineral
oil, alkanes, fatty alcohols, fatty acids, fatty alcohol
derivatives, alkoxylated fatty acids, polyethylene glycol esters of
fatty acids, propylene glycol esters of fatty acids, butylene
glycol esters of fatty acids, esters of neopentyl glycol and fatty
acids, polyglycerol/glycerol esters of fatty acids, glycol diesters
or diesters of ethylene glycol and fatty acids, esters of fatty
acids and fatty alcohols, esters of short chain alcohols and fatty
acids, esters of fatty alcohols, hydroxy-substituted fatty acids,
waxes, triglyceride compounds, lanolin, ceramides, or mixtures
thereof.
41. The hair color-altering composition of claim 28, further
comprising at least one cationic polymer.
42. The hair color-altering composition of claim 41, comprising at
least one cationic polymer chosen from poly(methacryloyloxyethyl
trimethylammonium chloride), polyquaternium-37, quaternized
cellulose derivatives, polyquaternium-4, polyquaternium-6,
polyquaternium-10, cationic alkyl polyglycosides, cationized honey,
cationic guar derivatives, polymeric dimethyl diallyl ammonium
salts and copolymers thereof with esters and amides of acrylic acid
and methacrylic acid, copolymers of vinyl pyrrolidone with
quaternized derivatives of dialkylaminoalkyl acrylate and
methacrylate, vinyl pyrrolidone-vinyl imidazolium methochloride
copolymers, quaternized polyvinyl alcohol, polyquaternium-2,
polyquaternium-7, polyquaternium-17, polyquaternium-18,
polyquaternium-24, polyquaternium-27, or mixtures thereof.
43. The hair color-altering composition of claim 28, wherein the
hair color-altering agent comprises at least one oxidative dye
chosen from oxidation bases couplers, or mixtures thereof.
44. A hair cosmetic composition for lifting or altering the color
of keratinous substrates comprising: a. at least one amino acid or
amino sulfonic acid, and/or a salt thereof chosen from taurine,
aspartic acid, cysteine, lysine, methionine, tyrosine,
phenylalanine, carnitine, aminomethane sulfonic acid, aminopropane
sulfonic acid, aminobutane sulfonic acid, aminohexane sulfonic
acid, aminoisopropyl sulfonic acid, aminododecyl sulfonic acid,
aminobenzene sulfonic acid, aminotoulene sulfonic acid, sulfanilic
acid, chlorosulfanilic acid, diamino benzene sulfonic acid, amino
phenol sulfonic acid, amino propyl benzene sulfonic acid, amino
hexyl benzene sulfonic acid, or mixtures thereof b. at least one
alkalizing agent chosen from alkali metal carbonates, alkali metal
phosphates, organic amines, hydroxide base compounds, or mixtures
thereof; c. at least two fatty substances chosen from alkanes
comprising 6 to 16 carbon atoms, fatty alcohols, esters of fatty
acids, esters of fatty alcohol, non-silicone oils, non-silicone
waxes, silicones, or mixtures thereof; d. at least one surfactant
chosen from anionic surfactants, nonionic surfactants, or mixtures
thereof; e. at least one cationic polymer; f. at least one solvent
chosen from water, organic solvents, or mixtures thereof; and g. at
least one carboxylic acid chosen from oxalic acid, malonic acid,
glutaric acid, succinic acid, adipic acid, glycolic acid, citric
acid, tartaric acid, malic acid, sebacic acid, fumaric acid,
benzoic acid, citraconic acid, aconitic acid,
propane-1,2,3-tricarboxylic acid, trimesic acid, salts thereof, or
mixtures thereof.
45. The hair color altering composition of claim 44, wherein the at
least one amino acid or amino sulfonic acid comprises taurine.
46. The hair color-altering composition of claim 44, further
comprising at least one hair color-altering agent.
47. The hair color-altering composition of claim 46, wherein the at
least one hair color-altering agent comprises at least one
oxidative dye.
Description
CROSS-REFERENCE TO RELATED APPLICATIONS
[0001] This application claims priority to U.S. Provisional Patent
Application No. 62/611,865, filed on Dec. 29, 2017, entitled
"COMPOSITIONS FOR ALTERING THE COLOR OF HAIR," the entirety of
which is herein incorporated by reference.
FIELD
[0002] The present disclosure generally relates to compositions for
use in bleaching and/or coloring the hair.
BACKGROUND
[0003] The process of changing the color of hair, can involve
depositing an artificial color onto the hair which provides a
different shade or color to the hair, and/or lifting the color of
the hair, such as lightening the color of dark hair to lighter
shades.
[0004] In general, hair lightening or color lifting compositions
and hair dyeing compositions possess an alkalinity such that these
compositions have a pH value of above 7, typically being at pH 9
and above, and may generally require the presence of an alkalizing
agent such as ammonia or an ammonia gas-generating compound and/or
an amine or ammonium-based compound in amounts sufficient to make
such compositions alkaline. This alkalizing agent causes the hair
shaft to swell, thus allowing active agents into the hair.
[0005] Imparting a color change or color effect on hair can be done
using permanent and semi-permanent or temporary hair coloring
products. Conventional permanent hair coloring products are dye
compositions comprising oxidation dye precursors, which are also
known as primary intermediates or couplers. These oxidation dye
precursors are colorless or weakly colored compounds which, when
combined with oxidizing products, give rise to colored complexes by
a process of oxidative condensation. The oxidizing products
conventionally use peroxides such as hydrogen peroxide as oxidizing
agents. Such permanent hair color products also contain ammonia or
other alkalizing agents such as monoethanolamine (MEA) which causes
the hair shaft to swell, thus allowing the small oxidative dye
molecules to penetrate the cuticle and cortex before the oxidation
condensation process is completed. The resulting larger-sized
colored complexes from the oxidative reaction are then trapped
inside the hair fiber, thereby permanently altering the color of
the hair.
[0006] Semi-permanent dyeing uses direct dyes, which are nonionic
or ionic dyes and colored compounds capable of producing a more or
less pronounced change of the natural color of the hair, resistant
to shampoo-washing several times. These dyes may or may not be used
in the presence of an oxidizing agent. In contrast with oxidation
dye precursors, a direct dye is a relatively voluminous molecule
that does not penetrate easily into the core of the fiber.
[0007] The process of lifting the color of hair, generally also
requires the use of compositions that comprise at least one
oxidizing agent (e.g., hydrogen peroxide). Such oxidizing agents
enter the hair shaft and react with melanin in the hair, thereby
lightening the color of the hair. Additional agents, such as
persulfate salts, may be added to accelerate the process.
[0008] While such hair compositions can effectively alter the color
of hair, these chemical treatments can severely damage the hair
fibers. Thus, in order to reduce or avoid the drawbacks mentioned
above, as well as to improve the cosmetic performance of the
treatment compositions, the use of new and additional ingredients
and novel combinations of ingredients are continuously sought which
can help prevent, ameliorate or reverse damage.
[0009] Nevertheless, the choice of ingredients or combinations of
ingredients could pose difficulties insofar as they cannot be
detrimental to other cosmetic attributes such as ease and
uniformity of application, rheology or viscosity properties and
stability of the compositions, color deposit and target shade
formation, and/or result into more disadvantages such as increased
damage or a less healthy look to the hair. It would therefore be
desirable to provide the consumer with compositions and methods
that can effectively treat the hair, e.g. lift the color of hair
and/or deposit color onto hair in an efficient manner, while
providing other cosmetic advantages such as shine, conditioning,
fiber strength, and/or a healthy appearance to the hair, but
avoiding or minimizing damage to the hair.
SUMMARY
[0010] One aspect of the invention pertains to a hair
color-altering composition. In one or more embodiments, the
composition comprises: [0011] at least one amino acid or amino
sulfonic acid, and/or a salt thereof selected from the group
consisting of taurine, aspartic acid, cysteine, lysine, methionine,
tyrosine, phenylalanine, carnitine, aminomethane sulfonic acid,
aminopropane sulfonic acid, aminobutane sulfonic acid, aminohexane
sulfonic acid, aminoisopropyl sulfonic acid, aminododecyl sulfonic
acid, aminobenzene sulfonic acid, aminotoulene sulfonic acid,
sulfanilic acid, chlorosulfanilic acid, diamino benzene sulfonic
acid, amino phenol sulfonic acid, amino propyl benzene sulfonic
acid, amino hexyl benzene sulfonic acid, a salt thereof, and a
mixture thereof; [0012] at least one carboxylic acid selected from
the group consisting of oxalic acid, malonic acid, glutaric acid,
succinic acid, adipic acid, glycolic acid, citric acid, tartaric
acid, malic acid, sebacic acid, maleic acid, fumaric acid, benzoic
acid, citraconic acid, aconitic acid, propane-1,2,3-tricarboxylic
acid, trimesic acid, and combinations thereof; [0013] a hair
color-altering agent selected from the group consisting of
oxidizing agents, oxidative dyes, direct dyes and combinations
thereof; and [0014] water.
[0015] In some embodiments, the at least one amino acid or amino
sulfonic acid and/or salt thereof is taurine and/or a salt thereof.
In one or more embodiments, the composition comprises from about
0.01 wt. % to about 10 wt. % of the at least one amino acid or
amino sulfonic acid and/or a salt thereof. In some embodiments, the
at least one amino acid or amino sulfonic acid and/or a salt
thereof is present in an amount of from about 0.01 wt. % to about 5
wt. %. In one or more embodiments, the composition comprises at
least 0.01 wt. % to about 10 wt. % of the at least one carboxylic
acid and/or a salt thereof. In some embodiments, the at least one
carboxylic acid and/or a salt thereof is present in an amount of
from about 0.01 wt. % to about 7 wt. %. In one or more embodiments,
the at least one carboxylic acid and/or a salt thereof is a
tricarboxylic acid and/or a salt thereof. In some embodiments, the
tricarboxylic acid and/or salt thereof is selected from the group
consisting of citric acid, isocitric acid, aconitic acid,
propane-1,2,3-tricarboxylic acid, trimesic acid, a salt thereof,
and a mixture thereof. In one or more embodiments, the
tricarboxylic acid and/or salt thereof is citric acid, and/or a
salt thereof. In some embodiments, the composition further
comprises one or more alkalizing agents. In one or more
embodiments, the one or more alkalizing agents is selected from
alkali metal carbonates, alkali metal phosphates, organic amines,
hydroxide base compounds, and combinations thereof. In some
embodiments, the one or more alkalizing agents is selected from the
group consisting of ammonium hydroxide, monoethanolamine and
combinations thereof. In one or more embodiments, the composition
further comprises one or more fatty compounds selected from the
group consisting oils, mineral oil, alkanes, fatty alcohols, fatty
acids, fatty alcohol derivatives, alkoxylated fatty acids,
polyethylene glycol esters of fatty acids, propylene glycol esters
of fatty acids, butylene glycol esters of fatty acids, esters of
neopentyl glycol and fatty acids, polyglycerol/glycerol esters of
fatty acids, glycol diesters or diesters of ethylene glycol and
fatty acids, esters of fatty acids and fatty alcohols, esters of
short chain alcohols and fatty acids, esters of fatty alcohols,
hydroxy-substituted fatty acids, waxes, triglyceride compounds,
lanolin, ceramide, and mixtures thereof. In some embodiments, the
composition further comprises one or more cationic polymers. In one
or more embodiments, the one or more cationic polymers are selected
from the group consisting of poly(methacryloyloxyethyl
trimethylammonium chloride), polyquaternium-37, quaternized
cellulose derivatives, polyquaternium-4, polyquaternium-6,
polyquaternium-10, cationic alkyl polyglycosides, cationized honey,
cationic guar derivatives, polymeric dimethyl diallyl ammonium
salts and copolymers thereof with esters and amides of acrylic acid
and methacrylic acid, copolymers of vinyl pyrrolidone with
quaternized derivatives of dialkylaminoalkyl acrylate and
methacrylate, vinyl pyrrolidone-vinyl imidazolium methochloride
copolymers, quaternized polyvinyl alcohol, polyquaternium-2,
polyquaternium-7, polyquaternium-17, polyquaternium-18,
polyquaternium-24, polyquaternium-27, and a mixture thereof. In
some embodiments, the hair color-altering agent comprises and
oxidative dye.
[0016] Another aspect of the invention pertains to a hair cosmetic
composition for lifting or altering the color of keratinous
substrates. In one or more embodiments, the composition comprises:
[0017] a. at least one alkalizing agent selected from alkali metal
carbonates, alkali metal phosphates, organic amines, hydroxide base
compounds, and mixtures thereof; [0018] b. at least two fatty
substances selected from alkanes comprising 6 to 16 carbon atoms,
fatty alcohols, esters of fatty acids, esters of fatty alcohol,
non-silicone oils, non-silicone waxes, silicones and mixtures
thereof; [0019] c. at least one surfactant selected from anionic
surfactants, nonionic surfactants and mixtures thereof; [0020] d.
at least one cationic polymer; [0021] e. at least one solvent
selected from water, organic solvents and mixtures thereof; and
[0022] f. at least one carboxylic acid selected from the group
consisting of oxalic acid, malonic acid, glutaric acid, succinic
acid, adipic acid, glycolic acid, citric acid, tartaric acid, malic
acid, sebacic acid, maleic acid, fumaric acid, benzoic acid,
citraconic acid, aconitic acid, propane-1,2,3-tricarboxylic acid,
trimesic acid, and combinations thereof.
[0023] In some embodiments, the composition further comprises at
least one amino acid or amino sulfonic acid, and/or a salt thereof
selected from the group consisting of taurine, aspartic acid,
cysteine, lysine, methionine, tyrosine, phenylalanine, carnitine,
aminomethane sulfonic acid, aminopropane sulfonic acid, aminobutane
sulfonic acid, aminohexane sulfonic acid, aminoisopropyl sulfonic
acid, aminododecyl sulfonic acid, aminobenzene sulfonic acid,
aminotoulene sulfonic acid, sulfanilic acid, chlorosulfanilic acid,
diamino benzene sulfonic acid, amino phenol sulfonic acid, amino
propyl benzene sulfonic acid, amino hexyl benzene sulfonic acid. In
one or more embodiments, the at least one amino acid or amino
sulfonic acid comprises taurine. In one or more embodiments, the
composition further comprises at least one hair color-altering
agent. In some embodiments, the at least one hair color-altering
agent comprises at least one oxidative dye. In one or more
embodiments, the at least one carboxylic acid and/or a salt thereof
is present in an amount of about 0.05 wt. % to about 10 wt. % by
total weight of the composition. In one or more embodiments, the at
least one alkalizing agent is selected from the group consisting of
monoethanolamine, ammonium hydroxide, and mixtures thereof. In some
embodiments, the cationic polymer is selected from the group
consisting of poly(methacryloyloxyethyl trimethylammonium
chloride), polyquaternium-37, quaternized cellulose derivatives,
polyquaternium-4, polyquaternium-6, polyquaternium-10, cationic
alkyl polyglycosides, cationized honey, cationic guar derivatives,
polymeric dimethyl diallyl ammonium salts and copolymers thereof
with esters and amides of acrylic acid and methacrylic acid,
copolymers of vinyl pyrrolidone with quaternized derivatives of
dialkylaminoalkyl acrylate and methacrylate, vinyl
pyrrolidone-vinyl imidazolium methochloride copolymers, quaternized
polyvinyl alcohol, polyquaternium-2, polyquaternium-7,
polyquaternium-17, polyquaternium-18, polyquaternium-24,
polyquaternium-27, and a mixture thereof. In one or more
embodiments, the at least two fatty substances are selected from
mineral oil, cetearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, glycol distearate,
hydrogenated vegetable oil, and mixtures thereof. In some
embodiments, the hair color-altering composition does not comprise
a thickener, cellulose or gum. In one or more embodiments, the at
least one surfactant comprises an anionic surfactant selected from
oleic acid and/or a nonionic surfactant selected from deceth-3,
oleth-30 and combinations thereof.
BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF FIGURES
[0024] FIGS. 1A-B show the evolution of elastic modulus (G')
measured as a function of time and temperature of inventive and
comparative formulas;
[0025] FIG. 2 is a graph showing the break stress of hair treated
with compositions according to the instant disclosure (B-F) and
hair treated with a commercial benchmark product; and
[0026] FIG. 3 is a graph showing the Young's modulus (the elastic
modulus) of hair treated with compositions according to the instant
disclosure (B-F) and hair treated with a commercial benchmark
product.
[0027] It should be understood that the various aspects are not
limited to the arrangements and instrumentality shown in the
drawings.
DETAILED DESCRIPTION
[0028] One aspect of the invention relates to hair color-altering
compositions. The hair color-altering compositions at least
comprise a hair color-altering agent and a carboxylic acid. In one
or more embodiments, hair color-altering composition comprises
[0029] at least one amino acid or amino sulfonic acid, and/or a
salt thereof selected from the group consisting of taurine,
aspartic acid, cysteine, lysine, methionine, tyrosine,
phenylalanine, carnitine, a salt thereof, and a mixture thereof;
[0030] at least one carboxylic acid selected from the group
consisting of oxalic acid, malonic acid, glutaric acid, succinic
acid, adipic acid, glycolic acid, citric acid, tartaric acid, malic
acid, sebacic acid, maleic acid, fumaric acid, benzoic acid,
citraconic acid, aconitic acid, propane-1,2,3-tricarboxylic acid,
trimesic acid, and combinations thereof; [0031] a hair
color-altering agent selected from the group consisting of
oxidizing agents, oxidative dyes, direct dyes and combinations
thereof; and [0032] water.
[0033] In some embodiments, the hair color-altering composition
comprises [0034] at least one alkalizing agent selected from alkali
metal carbonates, alkali metal phosphates, organic amines,
hydroxide base compounds, and mixtures thereof; [0035] at least two
fatty substances selected from alkanes comprising 6 to 16 carbon
atoms, fatty alcohols, esters of fatty acids, esters of fatty
alcohol, non-silicone oils, non-silicone waxes, silicones and
mixtures thereof; [0036] at least one surfactant selected from
anionic surfactants, nonionic surfactants and mixtures thereof;
[0037] at least one cationic polymer; [0038] at least one solvent
selected from water, organic solvents and mixtures thereof; and
[0039] at least one carboxylic acid selected from the group
consisting of oxalic acid, malonic acid, glutaric acid, succinic
acid, adipic acid, glycolic acid, citric acid, tartaric acid, malic
acid, sebacic acid, maleic acid, fumaric acid, benzoic acid,
citraconic acid, aconitic acid, propane-1,2,3-tricarboxylic acid,
trimesic acid, and combinations thereof.
[0040] The presence of citric acid has surprisingly been found to
positively affect the rheology characteristics of certain hair
color-altering compositions, particularly in combination with
several other ingredients (e.g., certain surfactants an fatty
substances). Additionally, citric acid/or taurine may also provide
protect the hair from damage when undergoing color alteration.
[0041] The hair color-altering compositions of the instant
disclosure can be in a variety of forms. For example, in many
instances, the hair color-altering compositions are in the form of
a liquid, gel, lotion, creme, and/or spray. The hair color-altering
compositions may be packaged in a variety of different containers,
such as, for example, a ready-to-use container. Non-limiting
examples of useful packaging include tubes, jars, caps, unit dose
packages, and bottles, including squeezable tubes and bottles.
Amino Acid/Amino Sulfonic Acid
[0042] In some embodiments, the hair color-altering compositions
comprise an amino acid or amino sulfonic acid. Amino acids are
simple organic compounds containing both a carboxylic acid group
(--COOH) and an amino group (--NH.sub.2). Amino sulfonic acids are
simple organic compounds containing both a sulfonic acid group
(--SO.sub.2OH) and an amino group (--NH.sub.2). Accordingly, the
amino acids and amino sulfonic acids may be selected from compounds
of Formula (I) and compounds of Formula (II):
##STR00001##
[0043] wherein R represents a hydrogen atom, a linear or branched,
preferably linear, C.sub.1-C.sub.5 alkyl group, said alkyl group
being optionally substituted with at least one group chosen from
hydroxyl, --C(O)--OH, --S(O).sub.2--OH, --C(O)--O.sup.- and
M.sup.+, and S(O).sub.2--O.sup.- and M.sup.+, with M.sup.+
representing a cationic counter-ion such as an alkali metal,
alkaline earth metal, or ammonium, and n is 0 or 1. In the hair
color-altering compositions containing them, the amino acids and
amino sulfonic acids may be in their non-ionized form (I) and (II)
or in their ionized or betaine form (I') and (II'):
##STR00002##
[0044] wherein "R" and "n" are as defined above. The one or more
amino acids and/or amino sulfonic acids may also be in their
conjugate base form (Ib) and (IIb).
##STR00003##
[0045] wherein "R" and "n" are as defined above.
[0046] Well-known amino acids include the twenty amino acids that
form the proteins of living organisms (standard proteinogenic amino
acids): alanine, arginine, asparagine, aspartic acid, cysteine,
glutamic acid, glutamine, glycine, histidine, isoleucine, leucine,
lysine, methionine, phenylalanine, proline, serine, threonine,
tryptophan, tyrosine, and valine. The amino acids of the instant
disclosure, however, are not limited to the standard proteinogenic
amino acids.
[0047] Non-limiting examples of amino sulfonic acids include
aminomethane sulfonic acid, aminoethane sulfonic acid (taurine),
aminopropane sulfonic acid, aminobutane sulfonic acid, aminohexane
sulfonic acid, aminoisopropyl sulfonic acid, aminododecyl sulfonic
acid, aminobenzene sulfonic acid, aminotoulene sulfonic acid,
sulfanilic acid, chlorosulfanilic acid, diamino benzene sulfonic
acid, amino phenol sulfonic acid, amino propyl benzene sulfonic
acid, amino hexyl benzene sulfonic acid, and a mixture thereof.
[0048] In some cases, charged amino acids may be used. Non-limiting
examples of charged amino acids include arginine, lysine, aspartic
acid, and glutamic acid. In some cases, polar amino acids are
useful. Non-limiting examples of polar amino acids include
glutamine, asparagine, histidine, serine, threonine, tyrosine,
cysteine, methionine, and tryptophan.
[0049] In some cases, hydrophobic amino acids may be employed.
Non-limiting examples of hydrophobic amino acids include alanine,
isoleucine, leucine, phenylalanine, valine, proline, and
glycine.
[0050] In some instances, the hair color-altering compositions
include at least one amino acid or an amino sulfonic acid, and/or a
salt thereof, selected from the group consisting of glycine,
alanine, serine, beta-alanine, taurine, sodium glycinate, sodium
alaninate, sodium serinate, lithium beta-alanine, sodium taurate,
and a mixture thereof.
[0051] In some cases, the hair color-altering compositions include
only amino acid(s) and/or salt(s) thereof, only sulfonic acid(s)
and/or salt(s) thereof, or a mixture of both amino acids and
sulfonic acids, and/or salts thereof, for example, one or more
amino acids and one or more amino sulfonic acids, and/or salts
thereof, for example, those selected from the group consisting of
aspartic acid, cysteine, glycine, lysine, methionine, proline,
tyrosine, phenylalanine, carnitine, taurine, a salt thereof, and a
mixture thereof.
[0052] In some cases, the hair color-altering compositions include
at least taurine (2-aminoethane sulfonic acid) and/or a salt
thereof.
[0053] The total amount of the at least one amino acid or amino
sulfonic acid, and/or salt thereof, is at least 0.01 wt. %, based
on the total weight of the hair color-altering composition. The
total amount of the at least one amino acid or amino sulfonic acid,
and/or salt thereof, may be from about 0.01, 0.02, 0.03, 0.04,
0.05, 0.06, 0.07, 0.08, 0.09, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8 or 9 wt. % to
about 0.02, 0.03, 0.04, 0.05, 0.06, 0.07, 0.08, 0.09, 1, 2, 3, 4,
5, 6, 7, 8, 9 or 10 wt. % of the total composition. For example,
the at least one amino acid or amino sulfonic acid and/or a salt
thereof may be present from about 0.01 wt. % to about 10 wt. % of
the total composition, or more particularly from about 0.01 wt. %
to about 5 wt. % of the total composition.
Carboxylic Acid
[0054] The hair color-altering compositions may include at least
one carboxylic acid, and/or a salt thereof, typically in an amount
of at least 0.01 wt. %, based on the total weight of the hair
color-altering composition.
[0055] A non-polymeric mono, di, and/or tricarboxylic acid is an
organic compound having one (mono), two (di), or three (tri)
carboxylic acid groups (--COOH). The non-polymeric mono, di, and
tricarboxylic acids, and/or salts thereof, typically have a
molecular weight of less than about 500 g/mol, less than about 400
g/mol, or less than about 300 g/mol.
[0056] Non-limiting examples of mono-carboxylic acids, or salts
thereof, include formic acid, acetic acid, propionic acid, butyric
acid, valeric acid, caproic acid, entanthic acid, caprylic acid,
pelargonic acid, capric acid, undecylic acid, lauric acid,
tridecylic acid, lauric acid, tridecylic acid, myristic acid,
pentadecylic acid, palmitic acid, margaric acid, stearic acid,
nonadecylic acid, arachidic acid, lactic acid, a salt thereof, and
a mixture thereof. In some cases, the hair color-altering
compositions include at least lactic acid and/or a salt
thereof.
[0057] Non-limiting examples of di-carboxylic acids and/or salts
thereof include oxalic acid, malonic acid, malic acid, glutaric
acid, citraconic acid, succinic acid, adipic acid, tartaric acid,
fumaric acid, maleic acid, sebacic acid, azelaic acid,
dodecanedioic acid, phthalic acid, isophthalic acid, terephthalic
acid, 2,6-naphthalene dicarboxylic acid, a salt thereof, and a
mixture thereof. In some cases, the hair color-altering
compositions include oxalic acid, malonic acid, malic acid, maleic
acid, a salt thereof, or a mixture thereof.
[0058] Non-limiting examples of tricarboxylic acids and salts
thereof include citric acid, isocitric acid, aconitric acid,
propane-1,2,3-tricarboxylic acid, benzene-1,3,5-tricarboxylic acid,
a salt thereof, and a mixture thereof. In some instances, the hair
color-altering compositions include at least citric acid and/or a
salt thereof.
[0059] In one or more embodiments, the hair color-altering
composition comprise at least one carboxylic acid selected from the
group consisting of oxalic acid, malonic acid, glutaric acid,
succinic acid, adipic acid, glycolic acid, citric acid, tartaric
acid, malic acid, sebacic acid, maleic acid, fumaric acid, benzoic
acid, citraconic acid, aconitic acid, propane-1,2,3-tricarboxylic
acid, trimesic acid, and combinations thereof.
[0060] The total amount of the at least one non-polymeric mono, di,
or tricarboxylic acid, and/or a salt thereof, is at least 0.01 wt.
%, based on the total weight of the hair color-altering
composition. In some cases, the total amount of the at least one
non-polymeric mono, di, or tricarboxylic acid, and/or salt thereof,
ranges from about 0.01, 0.02, 0.03, 0.04, 0.05, 0.1, 0.2, 0.3, 0.4,
0.5, 0.6, 0.7, 0.8, 0.9, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8 or 9 wt. % to about
1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9 or 10 wt. % by total weight of the
composition.
Hair Color-Altering Agent
[0061] The hair color-altering compositions may comprise a hair
color-altering agent selected from the group consisting of
oxidizing agents, oxidative dyes, direct dyes.
[0062] In embodiments comprising oxidizing agents, the at least one
oxidizing agent may be chosen, for example, from peroxides,
persulfates, perborates, percarbonates, alkali metal bromates,
ferricyanides, peroxygenated salts, alkali metal carbonates, or a
mixture thereof. Oxidizing agents that may also be used include at
least one redox enzyme such as laccases, peroxidases, and
2-electron oxidoreductases, such as uricase, where appropriate in
the presence of their respective donor or co-factor. Oxygen in the
air may also be employed as an oxidizing agent.
[0063] In one embodiment, the oxidizing agent can be hydrogen
peroxide present in an aqueous solution whose titer may range from
1 to 40 volumes, such as from 5 to 40 volumes or such as from 5 to
20 volumes.
[0064] In another embodiment, the oxidizing agent can be a
persulfate and/or a monopersulfate such as, for example, potassium
persulfate, sodium persulfate, ammonium persulfate, as well as
mixtures thereof. In one embodiment, the oxidizing agents in the
present disclosure are selected from hydrogen peroxide, potassium
persulfate, sodium persulfate, and mixtures thereof. In certain
embodiments, the oxidizing agent is hydrogen peroxide.
[0065] In general, the oxidizing agent will be present in an amount
ranging from about 0.05 to about 50% by weight, such as from about
0.1% to about 30% by weight, from about 0.1% to about 20% by
weight, or from about 1% to about 10% by weight, based on the total
weight of the developer composition or solution or system in which
it is present.
[0066] In embodiments comprising oxidation dyes, the oxidation dyes
are generally chosen from one or more oxidation bases optionally
combined with one or more couplers. By way of example, the
oxidation bases may be chosen from para-phenylenediamines,
bis(phenyl)alkylenediamines, para-aminophenols, ortho-aminophenols
and heterocyclic bases, and the addition salts thereof.
[0067] Among the para-phenylenediamines that may be mentioned, for
example, are para-phenylenediamine, para-toluenediamine,
2-chloro-para-phenylenediamine, 2,3-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine,
2,6-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine,
2,6-diethyl-para-phenylenediamine,
2,5-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine,
N,N-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine,
N,N-diethyl-para-phenylenediamine,
N,N-dipropyl-para-phenylenediamine,
4-amino-N,N-diethyl-3-methylaniline,
N,N-bis(.beta.-hydroxyethyl)-para-phenylenediamine,
4-N,N-bis(.beta.-hydroxyethyl)amino-2-methylaniline,
4-N,N-bis(.beta.-hydroxyethyl)amino-2-chloroaniline,
2-.beta.-hydroxyethyl-para-phenylenediamine,
2-methoxymethyl-para-phenylenediamine,
2-fluoro-para-phenylenediamine, 2-isopropyl-para-phenylenediamine,
N-(.beta.-hydroxypropyl)-para-phenylenediamine,
2-hydroxymethyl-para-phenylenediamine,
N,N-dimethyl-3-methyl-para-phenylenediamine,
N-ethyl-N-(.beta.-hydroxyethyl)-para-phenylenediamine,
N-(.beta.,.gamma.-dihydroxypropyl)-para-phenylenediamine,
N-(4'-aminophenyl)-para-phenylenediamine,
N-phenyl-para-phenylenediamine,
2-.beta.-hydroxyethyloxy-para-phenylenediamine,
2-.beta.-acetylaminoethyloxy-para-phenylenediamine,
N-(.beta.-methoxyethyl)-para-phenylenediamine,
4-aminophenylpyrrolidine, 2-thienyl-para-phenylenediamine,
2-.beta.-hydroxyethylamino-5-aminotoluene and
3-hydroxy-1-(4'-aminophenyl)pyrrolidine, and the addition salts
thereof with an acid.
[0068] Among the para-phenylenediamines mentioned above,
para-phenylenediamine, para-toluenediamine,
2-isopropyl-para-phenylenediamine,
2-.beta.-hydroxyethyl-para-phenylenediamine,
2-.beta.-hydroxyethyloxy-para-phenylenediamine,
2,6-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine,
2,6-diethyl-para-phenylenediamine,
2,3-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine,
N,N-bis(.beta.-hydroxyethyl)-para-phenylenediamine,
2-chloro-para-phenylenediamine and
2-.beta.-acetylaminoethyloxy-para-phenylenediamine, and the
addition salts thereof with an acid, are particularly
preferred.
[0069] Among the bis(phenyl)alkylenediamines that may be mentioned,
for example, are
N,N'-bis(.beta.-hydroxyethyl)-N,N'-bis(4'-aminophenyl)-1,3-diaminopropano-
l,
N,N'-bis(.beta.-hydroxyethyl)-N,N'-bis(4'-aminophenyl)ethylenediamine,
N,N'-bis(4-aminophenyl)tetramethylenediamine,
N,N'-bis(.beta.-hydroxyethyl)-N,N'-bis(4-aminophenyl)tetramethylenediamin-
e, N,N'-bis(4-methylaminophenyl)tetramethylenediamine,
N,N'-bis(ethyl)-N,N'-bis(4'-amino-3'-methylphenyl)ethylenediamine
and 1,8-bis(2,5-diaminophenoxy)-3,6-dioxaoctane, and the addition
salts thereof.
[0070] Among the para-aminophenols that may be mentioned, for
example, are para-aminophenol, 4-amino-3-methylphenol,
4-amino-3-fluorophenol, 4-amino-3-chlorophenol,
4-amino-3-hydroxymethylphenol, 4-amino-2-methylphenol,
4-amino-2-hydroxymethylphenol, 4-amino-2-methoxymethylphenol,
4-amino-2-aminomethylphenol,
4-amino-2-(.beta.-hydroxyethylaminomethyl)phenol and
4-amino-2-fluorophenol, and the addition salts thereof with an
acid.
[0071] Among the ortho-aminophenols that may be mentioned, for
example, are 2-aminophenol, 2-amino-5-methylphenol,
2-amino-6-methylphenol and 5-acetamido-2-aminophenol, and the
addition salts thereof.
[0072] Among the heterocyclic bases that may be mentioned, for
example, are pyridine derivatives, pyrimidine derivatives and
pyrazole derivatives.
[0073] Among the pyridine derivatives that may be mentioned are the
compounds described, for example, in patents GB 1 026 978 and GB 1
153 196, for instance 2,5-diaminopyridine,
2-(4-methoxyphenyl)amino-3-aminopyridine and 3,4-diaminopyridine,
and the addition salts thereof.
[0074] Other pyridine oxidation bases can include the
3-aminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyridine oxidation bases or the addition
salts thereof described, for example, in patent application FR 2
801 308. Examples that may be mentioned include
pyrazolo[1,5-a]pyrid-3-ylamine,
2-acetylaminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyrid-3-ylamine,
2-morpholin-4-ylpyrazolo[1,5-a]pyrid-3-ylamine,
3-aminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyridine-2-carboxylic acid,
2-methoxypyrazolo[1,5-a]pyrid-3-ylamine,
(3-aminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyrid-7-yl)methanol,
2-(3-aminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyrid-5-yl)ethanol,
2-(3-aminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyrid-7-yl)ethanol,
(3-aminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyrid-2-yl)methanol,
3,6-diaminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyridine,
3,4-diaminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyridine,
pyrazolo[1,5-a]pyridine-3,7-diamine,
7-morpholin-4-ylpyrazolo[1,5-a]pyrid-3-ylamine,
pyrazolo[1,5-a]pyridine-3,5-diamine,
5-morpholin-4-ylpyrazolo[1,5-a]pyrid-3-ylamine,
2-[(3-aminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyrid-5-yl)(2-hydroxyethyl)amino]ethanol,
2-[(3-aminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyrid-7-yl)(2-hydroxyethyl)amino]ethanol,
3-aminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyridin-5-ol,
3-aminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyridin-4-ol,
3-aminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyridin-6-ol,
3-aminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyridin-7-ol,
2-.quadrature.-hydroxyethoxy-3-amino-pyrazolo[1,5-a]pyridine;
2-(4-dimethylpyperazinium-1-yl)-3-amino-pyrazolo[1,5-a]pyridine;
and the addition salts thereof.
[0075] More particularly, oxidation bases can be selected from
3-aminopyrazolo-[1,5-a]-pyridines and preferably substituted on
carbon atom 2 by: [0076] (a) one (di)(C.sub.1-C.sub.6)(alkyl)amino
group wherein said alkyl group can be substituted by at least one
hydroxy, amino, imidazolium group; [0077] (b) one heterocycloalkyl
group containing from 5 to 7 members chain, and from 1 to 3
heteroatomes, potentially cationic, potentially substituted by one
or more (C.sub.1-C.sub.6)alkyl, such as
di(C.sub.1-C.sub.4)alkylpiperazinium; or [0078] (c) one
(C.sub.1-C.sub.6)alkoxy potentially substituted by one or more
hydroxy groups such as .alpha.-hydroxyalkoxy, and the addition
salts thereof.
[0079] Among the pyrimidine derivatives that may be mentioned are
the compounds described, for example, in the patents DE 2359399; JP
88-169571; JP 05-63124; EP 0770375 or patent application WO
96/15765, such as 2,4,5,6-tetraaminopyrimidine,
4-hydroxy-2,5,6-triaminopyrimidine,
2-hydroxy-4,5,6-triaminopyrimidine,
2,4-dihydroxy-5,6-diaminopyrimidine, 2,5,6-triaminopyrimidine and
their addition salts and their tautomeric forms, when a tautomeric
equilibrium exists.
[0080] Among the pyrazole derivatives that may be mentioned are the
compounds described in the patents DE 3843892, DE 4133957 and
patent applications WO 94/08969, WO 94/08970, FR-A-2 733 749 and DE
195 43 988, such as 4,5-diamino-1-methylpyrazole,
4,5-diamino-1-(.beta.-hydroxyethyl)pyrazole, 3,4-diaminopyrazole,
4,5-diamino-1-(4'-chlorobenzyl)pyrazole,
4,5-diamino-1,3-dimethylpyrazole,
4,5-diamino-3-methyl-1-phenylpyrazole,
4,5-diamino-1-methyl-3-phenylpyrazole,
4-amino-1,3-dimethyl-5-hydrazinopyrazole,
1-benzyl-4,5-diamino-3-methylpyrazole,
4,5-diamino-3-tert-butyl-1-methylpyrazole,
4,5-diamino-1-tert-butyl-3-methylpyrazole,
4,5-diamino-1-(.beta.-hydroxyethyl)-3-methylpyrazole,
4,5-diamino-1-ethyl-3-methylpyrazole,
4,5-diamino-1-ethyl-3-(4'-methoxyphenyl)pyrazole,
4,5-diamino-1-ethyl-3-hydroxymethylpyrazole,
4,5-diamino-3-hydroxymethyl-1-methylpyrazole,
4,5-diamino-3-hydroxymethyl-1-isopropyl-pyrazole,
4,5-diamino-3-methyl-1-isopropylpyrazole,
4-amino-5-(2'-aminoethyl)amino-1,3-dimethylpyrazole,
3,4,5-triaminopyrazole, 1-methyl-3,4,5-triaminopyrazole,
3,5-diamino-1-methyl-4-methylaminopyrazole,
3,5-diamino-4-(p-hydroxyethyl)amino-1-methylpyrazole, and the
addition salts thereof. 4,5-Diamino-1-(.beta.-methoxyethyl)pyrazole
may also be used. A 4,5-diaminopyrazole will preferably be used,
and even more preferentially 4,5-diamino-1-(p-hydroxyethyl)pyrazole
and/or a salt thereof.
[0081] Pyrazole derivatives that may also be mentioned include
diamino-N,N-dihydro-pyrazolopyrazolones and especially those
described in patent application FR-A-2 886 136, such as the
following compounds and the addition salts thereof:
2,3-diamino-6,7-dihydro-1H,5H-pyrazolo[1,2-a]pyrazol-1-one,
2-amino-3-ethylamino-6,7-dihydro-1H,5H-pyrazolo[1,2-a]pyrazol-1-one,
2-amino-3-isopropylamino-6,7-dihydro-1H,5H-pyrazolo[1,2-a]pyrazol-1-one,
2-amino-3-(pyrrolidin-1-yl)-6,7-dihydro-1H,5H-pyrazolo[1,2-a]pyrazol-1-on-
e, 4,5-diamino-1,2-dimethyl-1,2-dihydropyrazol-3-one,
4,5-diamino-1,2-diethyl-1,2-dihydropyrazol-3-one,
4,5-diamino-1,2-di-(2-hydroxyethyl)-1,2-dihydropyrazol-3-one,
2-amino-3-(2-hydroxyethyl)amino-6,7-dihydro-1H,5H-pyrazolo[1,2-a]pyrazol--
1-one,
2-amino-3-dimethylamino-6,7-dihydro-1H,5H-pyrazolo[1,2-a]pyrazol-1--
one,
2,3-diamino-5,6,7,8-tetrahydro-1H,6H-pyridazino[1,2-a]pyrazol-1-one,
4-amino-1,2-diethyl-5-(pyrrolidin-1-yl)-1,2-dihydropyrazol-3-one,
4-amino-5-(3-dimethylaminopyrrolidin-1-yl)-1,2-diethyl-1,2-dihydropyrazol-
-3-one,
2,3-diamino-6-hydroxy-6,7-dihydro-1H,5H-pyrazolo[1,2-a]pyrazol-1-o-
ne.
[0082] 2,3-Diamino-6,7-dihydro-1H,5H-pyrazolo[1,2-a]pyrazol-1-one
and/or a salt thereof will preferably be used.
4,5-Diamino-1-(.beta.-hydroxyethyl)pyrazole and/or
2,3-diamino-6,7-dihydro-1H,5H-pyrazolo[1,2-a]pyrazol-1-one and/or a
salt thereof will preferentially be used as heterocyclic bases.
[0083] Compositions and/or systems according to embodiments of the
disclosure may optionally further comprise one or more couplers
advantageously chosen from those conventionally used in the dyeing
or coloring of keratinous substrates.
[0084] Among these couplers, mention may be made especially of
meta-phenylenediamines, meta-aminophenols, meta-diphenols,
naphthalene-based couplers and heterocyclic couplers, and also the
addition salts thereof.
[0085] Mention may be made, for example, of 2-methyl-5-aminophenol,
5-N-( -hydroxyethyl)amino-2-methylphenol, 3-aminophenol,
5-amino-6-chloro-o-cresol (3-amino-2-chloro-6-methylphenol),
1,3-dihydroxybenzene, 1,3-dihydroxy-2-methyl-benzene,
4-chloro-1,3-dihydroxybenzene, 2,4-diamino-1-(
-hydroxyethyloxy)benzene, 2-amino-4-(
-hydroxyethylamino)-1-methoxybenzene, 1,3-diaminobenzene,
1,3-bis(2,4-diaminophenoxy)propane, 3-ureidoaniline,
3-ureido-1-dimethylaminobenzene, sesamol, 1-
-hydroxyethylamino-3,4-methylenedioxybenzene, .alpha.-naphthol,
2-methyl-1-naphthol, 6-hydroxyindole, 4-hydroxyindole,
4-hydroxy-N-methylindole, 2-amino-3-hydroxypyridine,
6-hydroxybenzomorpholine, 3,5-diamino-2,6-dimethoxypyridine, 1-N-(
-hydroxyethyl)amino-3,4-methylenedioxybenzene, 2,6-bis(
-hydroxyethylamino)-toluene, 6-hydroxyindoline,
2,6-dihydroxy-4-methylpyridine, 1-H-3-methylpyrazol-5-one,
1-phenyl-3-methylpyrazol-5-one,
2,6-dimethylpyrazolo[1,5-b]-1,2,4-triazole,
2,6-dimethyl[3,2-c]-1,2,4-triazole and
6-methylpyrazolo[1,5-a]benzimidazole, the addition salts thereof
with an acid, and mixtures thereof.
[0086] In general, the addition salts of the oxidation bases and
couplers that may be used in the context of the invention are
especially selected from the addition salts with an acid such as
the hydrochlorides, hydrobromides, sulfates, citrates, succinates,
tartrates, lactates, tosylates, benzenesulfonates, phosphates and
acetates.
[0087] The oxidation base(s) may be present in an amount ranging
from about 0.001% to 10% by weight, such as from about 0.005% to 5%
by weight, relative to the total weight of the system or
composition comprising the system in which it is present.
[0088] The coupler(s), if they are present, may be present in an
amount ranging from about 0.001% to 10% by weight, such as from
about 0.005% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the
system or composition comprising the system in which it is
present.
[0089] Compositions according to embodiments of the disclosure may
optionally comprise one or more synthetic or natural direct dyes,
for example chosen from anionic and nonionic species, preferably
cationic or nonionic species, either as sole dyes or in addition to
the oxidation dye(s).
[0090] Examples of suitable direct dyes that may be mentioned
include azo direct dyes; (poly)methine dyes such as cyanins,
hemicyanins and styryls; carbonyl dyes; azine dyes;
nitro(hetero)aryl dyes; tri(hetero)arylmethane dyes; porphyrin
dyes; phthalocyanin dyes, and natural direct dyes, alone or as
mixtures.
[0091] Preferably direct dyes are cationic direct dyes. Mention may
be made of the hydrazono cationic dyes of formulas (Va) and (V'a),
the azo cationic dyes (VIa) and (VI'a) and the diazo cationic dyes
(VIIa) below:
TABLE-US-00001 Het.sup.+--C(R.sup.a).dbd.N--N(R.sup.b)--Ar,
An.sup.- (Va) Het.sup.+--N(R.sup.a)--N.dbd.C(R.sup.b)--Ar, An.sup.-
(V'a) Het.sup.+--N.dbd.N--Ar, An.sup.- (VIa)
Ar.sup.+--N.dbd.N--Ar'', An.sup.- (VI'a) and
Het.sup.+--N.dbd.N--Ar'--N.dbd.N--Ar, An.sup.- (VIIa)
[0092] in which formulas (Va), (V'a), (VIa), (VI'a) and (VIIa):
[0093] Het.sup.+ represents a cationic heteroaryl radical,
preferably bearing an endocyclic cationic charge, such as
imidazolium, indolium or pyridinium, optionally substituted
preferentially with one or more (C.sub.1-C.sub.8) alkyl groups such
as methyl; [0094] Ar.sup.+ representing an aryl radical, such as
phenyl or naphthyl, bearing an exocyclic cationic charge,
preferentially ammonium, particularly
tri(C.sub.1-C.sub.8)alkylammonium such as trimethylammonium; [0095]
Ar represents an aryl group, especially phenyl, which is optionally
substituted, preferentially with one or more electron-donating
groups such as i) optionally substituted (C.sub.1-C.sub.8)alkyl,
ii) optionally substituted (C.sub.1-C.sub.8)alkoxy, iii)
(di)(C.sub.1-C.sub.8)(alkyl)amino optionally substituted on the
alkyl group(s) with a hydroxyl group, iv)
aryl(C.sub.1-C.sub.8)alkylamino, v) optionally substituted
N--(C.sub.1-C.sub.8)alkyl-N-aryl(C.sub.1-C.sub.8)alkylamino or
alternatively Ar represents a julolidine group; [0096] Ar' is an
optionally substituted divalent (hetero)arylene group such as
phenylene, particularly para-phenylene, or naphthalene, which are
optionally substituted, preferentially with one or more groups
(C.sub.1-C.sub.8)alkyl, hydroxyl or (C.sub.1-C.sub.8)alkoxy; [0097]
Ar'' is an optionally substituted (hetero)aryl group such as phenyl
or pyrazolyl, which are optionally substituted, preferentially with
one or more groups (C.sub.1-C.sub.8)alkyl, hydroxyl,
(di)(C.sub.1-C.sub.8)(alkyl)amino, (C.sub.1-C.sub.8)alkoxy or
phenyl; [0098] R.sup.a and R.sup.b, which may be identical or
different, represent a hydrogen atom or a group
(C.sub.1-C.sub.8)alkyl, which is optionally substituted,
preferentially with a hydroxyl group;
[0099] or alternatively the substituent R.sup.a with a substituent
of Het.sup.+ and/or R.sup.b with a substituent of Ar and/or R.sup.a
with R.sup.b form, together with the atoms that bear them, a
(hetero)cycloalkyl;
[0100] particularly, R.sup.a and R.sup.b represent a hydrogen atom
or a group (C.sub.1-C.sub.4)alkyl, which is optionally substituted
with a hydroxyl group; [0101] An.sup.- represents an anionic
counter-ion such as mesylate or halide.
[0102] In particular, mention may be made of the azo and hydrazono
cationic dyes bearing an endocyclic cationic charge of formulae
(Va), (V'a) and (VIa) as defined previously. More particularly
those of formulae (Va), (V'a) and (VIa) derived from the dyes
described in patent applications WO 95/15144, WO 95/01772 and
EP-714954.
Preferentially, the cationic part is derived from the following
derivatives:
TABLE-US-00002 ##STR00004## (Va-1) ##STR00005## (Vla-1)
[0103] formulae (V-1) and (VI-1) with: [0104] R.sup.1 representing
a (C.sub.1-C.sub.4) alkyl group such as methyl; [0105] R.sup.2 and
R.sup.3, which are identical or different, represent a hydrogen
atom or a (C.sub.1-C.sub.4)alkyl group, such as methyl; and [0106]
R.sup.4 represents a hydrogen atom or an electron-donating group
such as optionally substituted (C.sub.1-C.sub.8)alkyl, optionally
substituted (C.sub.1-C.sub.8)alkoxy, or
(di)(C.sub.1-C.sub.8)(alkyl)amino optionally substituted on the
alkyl group(s) with a hydroxyl group; particularly, R.sup.4 is a
hydrogen atom, [0107] Z represents a CH group or a nitrogen atom,
preferentially CH; [0108] An.sup.- represents an anionic
counter-ion such as mesylate or halide. The dye of formulae (Va-1)
and (VIa-1) can be chosen from Basic Red 51, Basic Yellow 87 and
Basic Orange 31 or derivatives thereof:
TABLE-US-00003 ##STR00006## [0108] Basic Red 51 ##STR00007## Basic
Orange 31 ##STR00008## Basic Yellow 87
[0109] Among the natural direct dyes, mention may be made of
lawsone, juglone, alizarin, purpurin, carminic acid, kermesic acid,
purpurogallin, protocatechaldehyde, indigo, isatin, curcumin,
spinulosin, apigenidin and orceins. Extracts or decoctions
containing these natural dyes and in particular henna-based
poultices or extracts may also be used.
[0110] When they are present, the one or more direct dyes more
particularly represent from about 0.001% to 10% by weight, such as
from about 0.005% to 5% by weight, of the total weight of the
system or composition comprising the system in which it is
present.
[0111] Alkalizing Agents
[0112] In some embodiments, the hair-color altering composition
comprises an alkalizing agent. The alkalizing agent the present
invention may be chosen from organic amines, organic amine salts,
ammonium salts, inorganic bases, and hydroxide base compounds.
[0113] The organic amines may be chosen from the ones having a pKb
at 25.degree. C. of less than 12, such as less than 10 or such as
less than 6. It should be noted that this is the pKb corresponding
to the function of highest basicity.
[0114] Organic amines may be chosen from organic amines comprising
one or two primary, secondary, or tertiary amine functions, and at
least one linear or branched C1-C8 alkyl groups bearing at least
one hydroxyl radical.
[0115] Organic amines may also be chosen from alkanolamines such as
mono-, di- or trialkylamines, comprising one to three identical or
different C1-C4 hydroxyalkyl radicals, ethylamines, ethyleneamines,
quinoline, aniline and cyclic amines, such as pyrroline, pyrrole,
pyrrolidine, imidazole, imidazolidine, imidazolidinine, morpholine,
pyridine, piperidine, pyrimidine, piperazine, triazine and
derivatives thereof.
[0116] Among the compounds of the alkanolamine type that may be
mentioned include but not limited to: monoethanolamine (also known
as monoethanolamine or MEA), diethanolamine, triethanolamine,
monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine,
N-dimethylaminoethanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-1-propanol,
triisopropanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-1,3-propanediol,
3-amino-1,2-propanediol, 3-dimethylamino-1,2-propanediol,
2-amino-2-methyl-1-propanol, and
tris(hydroxymethylamino)methane.
[0117] Other organic amines correspond to the formula (IV):
##STR00009##
[0118] wherein W is chosen from C1-C6 alkylene residues optionally
substituted with a hydroxyl group or a C1-C6 alkyl radical; Rx, Ry,
Rz and Rt, which may be identical or different, are chosen from a
hydrogen atom, C1-C6 alkyl radicals, C1-C6 hydroxyalkyl radicals,
and C1-C6 aminoalkyl radicals.
[0119] Examples of such amines that may be mentioned include but
not limited to: 1,3-diaminopropane, 1,3-diamino-2-propanol,
spermine, and spermidine.
[0120] In some embodiments, the organic amines are chosen from
amino acids.
[0121] As non-limiting examples, the amino acids that may be used
may be of natural or synthetic origin, in L, D, or racemic form,
and comprise at least one acid function chosen from, for instance,
carboxylic acid, sulfonic acid, phosphonic acid, and phosphoric
acid functions. The amino acids may be in their neutral or ionic
form.
[0122] Further as non-limiting examples, the amino acids may be
chosen from basic amino acids comprising an additional amine
function optionally included in a ring or in a ureido function.
[0123] Such basic amino acids may be chosen from those
corresponding to formula (A) below:
##STR00010##
[0124] wherein R is a group chosen from:
##STR00011##
[0125] The compounds corresponding to formula (A) may be chosen
from histidine, lysine, arginine, ornithine, and citrulline.
[0126] Amino acids that may be used in the present disclosure
include but not limited to: aspartic acid, glutamic acid, alanine,
arginine, ornithine, citrulline, asparagine, carnitine, cysteine,
glutamine, glycine, histidine, lysine, isoleucine, leucine,
methionine, N-phenylalanine, proline, serine, taurine, threonine,
tryptophan, tyrosine, and valine.
[0127] In some embodiments, the organic amines are chosen from
basic amino acids. The amino acids may be chosen from, for
instance, arginine, lysine and histidine, or mixtures thereof.
[0128] In some embodiments, the organic amines are chosen from
organic amines of heterocyclic type. Besides histidine that has
already been mentioned in the amino acids, non-limiting mention may
also be made of pyridine, piperidine, imidazole, 1,2,4-triazole,
tetrazole, and benzimidazole.
[0129] In some embodiments, the organic amines are chosen from
amino acid dipeptides. Amino acid dipeptides that may be used in
the present disclosure include but not limited to: carnosine,
anserine, and baleine.
[0130] In some embodiments, the organic amines are chosen from
compounds comprising a guanidine function. Organic amines of this
type that may be used in the present disclosure include, besides
arginine that has already been mentioned as an amino acid,
creatine, creatinine, 1,1-dimethylguanidine, 1,1-diethylguanidine,
glycocyamine, metformin, agmatine, N-amidinoalanine,
3-guanidinopropionic acid, 4-guanidinobutyric acid, and
2-([amino(imino)methyl]amino)ethane-1-sulfonic acid.
[0131] As a non-limiting example, the organic amines are chosen
from alkanolamines. For example, the organic amines are chosen from
ethanolamine, triethanoloamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-1-propanol (amino
methyl propanol), or preferably from 2-amino-2-methyl-1-propanol
and monoethanolamine, or mixtures thereof. Further as an example,
the organic amine is monoethanolamine.
[0132] The alkalizing agent may be an organic amine in salt form.
The term "organic amine salt," as used herein, means organic or
mineral salts of an organic amine as described above.
[0133] As a non-limiting example, the organic salts may be chosen
from the salts of organic acids, such as citrates, lactates,
glycolates, gluconates, acetates, propionates, fumarates, oxalates
and tartrates.
[0134] Further as a non-limiting example, the mineral salts may be
chosen from hydrohalides (for example hydrochlorides), carbonates,
hydrogen carbonates, sulfates, hydrogen phosphates, and
phosphates.
[0135] The ammonium salts that may be used according to the present
disclosure may be chosen from the following acid salts: carbonate,
bicarbonate. For instance, the salt is the carbonate, such as
ammonium carbonate.
[0136] The inorganic bases that may be used may be chosen from
alkali metal phosphates and carbonates such as, for example, sodium
phosphate, potassium phosphate, sodium carbonate, sodium
bicarbonate, potassium carbonate, potassium bicarbonate, and their
derivatives.
[0137] The inorganic bases may also include alkali metals of
carboxylates such as, for example, sodium acetate, potassium
acetate, sodium citrate, and potassium citrate, and their
derivatives.
[0138] The hydroxide base compounds can be chosen from alkali metal
hydroxides, alkaline-earth metal hydroxides, transition metal
hydroxides, quaternary ammonium hydroxides, organic hydroxides, and
mixtures thereof. Suitable examples are ammonium hydroxide, sodium
hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, lithium hydroxide, rubidium
hydroxide, caesium hydroxide, francium hydroxide, beryllium
hydroxide, magnesium hydroxide, calcium hydroxide, strontium
hydroxide, barium hydroxide, molybdenum hydroxide, manganese
hydroxide, zinc hydroxide, cobalt hydroxide, cadmium hydroxide,
cerium hydroxide, lanthanum hydroxide, actinium hydroxide, thorium
hydroxide, aluminium hydroxide, guanidinium hydroxide and mixtures
thereof.
[0139] According to at least one embodiment, the alkalizing agent
is chosen from alkali metal carbonates, alkali metal phosphate,
organic amines, hydroxide base compounds, and derivatives
thereof.
[0140] According to at least one embodiment, the alkalizing agent
is chosen from aminomethyl propanol, aminomethyl propanediol,
triisopropanol amine sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide,
ammonium hydroxide, dimethylstearylamine, dimethyl/tallowamine
lysine, ornithine, arginine, monoethanolamine, triethanolamine,
calcium hydroxide, calcium bicarbonate, sodium bicarbonate, and
mixtures thereof
[0141] According to one embodiment, the alkalizing agent is chosen
from at least one organic amine such as at least one alkanolamine.
A particularly preferred alkanolamine is ethanolamine (also known
as monoethanolamine or MEA).
[0142] According to one embodiment, the alkalizing agent is chosen
from at least one hydroxide base compounds, a particularly
preferred hydroxide base compounds is ammonium hydroxide,
[0143] According to one embodiment, the alkalizing agent comprises
ammonium hydroxide and ethanolamine.
[0144] The at least one alkalizing agent of the present invention
may be employed in an amount of from about 2% to about 20% by
weight, such as from about 2% to about 11% by weight, and further
such as from about 4.5% to about 10% by weight, based on the total
weight of the hair color composition of the present invention,
including increments and ranges therein there between.
[0145] The total amount of the alkalizing agent in the present
invention may be employed in an amount of from about 2, 3, 4, 5, 6,
7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, to about 20
percent by weight, including increments and ranges therein there
between.
[0146] The amount of the alkalizing agent in the composition can be
such that the pH of the composition can be neutral or alkaline
range pH above 7.
[0147] According to at least one embodiment, the compositions or
compositions for altering the color of keratin fibers of the
present invention contain a small amount (i.e., greater than 0 but
less than 8, 7, 6, 5, 4, 3 or 2% by weight) of ammonia, or is
substantially free of ammonia.
[0148] According to another embodiment, the compositions or
compositions for altering the color of keratin fibers of the
present invention contain ammonia/ammonium hydroxide in an amount
such that it is used as the alkalizing agent in the
compositions.
[0149] Fatty Substances
[0150] Fatty substances (also referred to interchangeably as "fatty
compounds") may be included in one or more embodiments of the
invention. In some embodiments, two or more fatty susbtances may be
included. In further embodiments, such fatty substances may be a
fatty substance other than a fatty acid. As used herein, "fatty
substance" means an organic compound insoluble in water at normal
temperature (25.degree. C.) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg)
(solubility below 5% and such as below 1% and further such as below
0.1%). Fatty substances have in their structure a chain of at least
two siloxane groups or at least one hydrocarbon chain having at
least 6 carbon atoms. Moreover, fatty substances are generally
soluble in organic solvents in the same conditions of temperature
and pressure, for example in chloroform, ethanol, benzene or
decamethylcyclopentasiloxane.
[0151] Fatty substances are, for example, chosen from lower
alkanes, fatty alcohols, esters of fatty acid, esters of fatty
alcohol, oils such as mineral, vegetable, animal and synthetic
non-silicone oils, non-silicone waxes and silicones.
[0152] In some embodiments, the alcohols and esters have at least
one linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon group,
comprising 6 to 30 carbon atoms, optionally substituted, for
example, with at least one hydroxyl group (for example 1 to 4). If
they are unsaturated, these compounds can have one to three,
conjugated or unconjugated, carbon-carbon double bonds.
[0153] With regard to the lower alkanes, in some embodiments, these
have from 6 to 16 carbon atoms and are linear or branched,
optionally cyclic. As examples, alkanes can be chosen from hexane
and dodecane, isoparaffins such as isohexadecane and isodecane.
[0154] Non-limiting examples of non-silicone oils usable in the
composition of the disclosure, include: esters of a glycerol
oligomer, in particular diglycerol esters, especially condensates
of adipic acid and of glycerol, for which a portion of the hydroxyl
groups of the glycerols has reacted with a mixture of fatty acids,
such as stearic acid, capric acid, isostearic acid and
12-hydroxystearic acid, such as in particular those sold under the
brand name Softisan 649 by Sasol; arachidyl propionate, sold under
the brand name Waxenol 801 by Alzol; fatty acid triglycerides and
their derivatives; pentaerythritol esters; esters of dimer diol and
dimer diacid, if appropriate esterified on their free alcohol or
acid functional group(s) by acid or alcohol radicals, in particular
dimer dilinoleate esters; such esters can be chosen in particular
from esters with the following INCI nomenclature:
bis-behenyl/isostearyl/phytosteryl dimer dilinoleyl dimer
dilinoleate (Plandool G), phytosteryl isostearyl dimer dilinoleate
(Lusplan PI-DA or Lusplan PHY/IS-DA),
phytosteryl/isostearyl/cetyl/stearyl/behenyl dimer dilinoleate
(Plandool H or Plandool S), and their mixtures; mango butter, such
as that sold under the reference Lipex 203 by AarhusKarlshamn;
hydrogenated soybean oil, hydrogenated coconut oil, hydrogenated
rapeseed oil or mixtures of hydrogenated vegetable oils, such as
the soybean, coconut, palm and rapeseed hydrogenated vegetable oil
mixture, for example the mixture sold under the reference
Akogel.RTM. by AarhusKarlshamn (INCI name: Hydrogenated Vegetable
Oil); shea butter, in particular that having the INCI name
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, such as that sold under the reference
Sheasoft.RTM. by AarhusKarlshamn; cocoa butter, in particular that
which is sold under the name CT Cocoa Butter Deodorized by Dutch
Cocoa BV or that which is sold under the name Beurre De Cacao NCB
HD703 758 by Barry Callebaut; shorea butter, in particular that
which is sold under the name Dub Shorea T by Stearinerie Dubois;
and their mixtures.
[0155] According to a preferred embodiment, the fatty substance is
chosen from hydrogenated vegetable oil, shea butter, cocoa butter,
shorea butter, a soybean, coconut, palm and rapeseed hydrogenated
vegetable oil mixture, and their mixtures, and more particularly
those referenced above.
[0156] Non-limiting examples of non-silicone oils usable in the
composition of the disclosure, include: hydrocarbon oils of animal
origin, such as perhydrosqualene; hydrocarbon oils of vegetable
origin, such as liquid triglycerides of fatty acids having from 6
to 30 carbon atoms such as triglycerides of heptanoic or octanoic
acids, or for example sunflower oil, maize oil, soya oil, cucurbit
oil, grapeseed oil, sesame oil, hazelnut oil, apricot oil,
macadamia oil, arara oil, sunflower oil, castor oil, avocado oil,
triglycerides of caprylic/capric acids such as those sold by the
company Stearineries Dubois or those sold under the names
MIGLYOL.RTM. 810, 812 and 818 by the company Dynamit Nobel, jojoba
oil, shea butter oil; hydrocarbons with more than 16 carbon atoms,
linear or branched, of mineral or synthetic origin, such as
paraffin oils, petroleum jelly, liquid paraffin, polydecenes,
hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam.RTM.. fluorinated,
partially hydrocarbon oils; as fluorinated oils, non-limiting
examples include perfluoromethylcyclopentane and
perfluoro-1,3-dimethylcyclohexane, sold under the names
"FLUTEC.RTM. PC1" and "FLUTEC.RTM. PC3" by the company BNFL
Fluorochemicals; perfluoro-1,2-dimethylcyclobutane;
perfluoroalkanes such as dodecafluoropentane and
tetradecafluorohexane, sold under the names "PF 5050.RTM." and "PF
5060.RTM." by the 3M Company, or bromoperfluorooctyl sold under the
name "FORALKYL.RTM." by the company Atochem;
nonafluoro-methoxybutane and nonafluoroethoxyisobutane; derivatives
of perfluoromorpholine, such as 4-trifluoromethyl
perfluoromorpholine sold under the name "PF 5052.RTM." by the 3M
Company. The non-silicone oils of the present invention may be
employed in an amount of from about 0.5% to about 5% by weight,
such as from about 1% to about 5.5% by weight, and further such as
from about 1.5% to about 4% by weight, based on the total weight of
the hair color composition of the present invention, including
increments and ranges therein there between.
[0157] The total amount of the non-silicone oils in the present
invention may be employed in an amount of from about 0.5, 0.6, 0.7,
0.8, 0.9, 1, 2, 3, 4, to about 5 percent by weight, including
increments and ranges therein there between.
[0158] As used herein, "fatty alcohol" refers to any alcohol with a
carbon chain of C5 or greater, such as, for example, C8 or greater,
C10 or greater, and C12 or greater. The at least one fatty alcohol
may be chosen from, for example, C9-C11 alcohols, C12-C13 alcohols,
C12-C15 alcohols, C12-C16 alcohols, C14-C15 alcohols, arachidyl
alcohol, behenyl alcohol, caprylic alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, cetyl
alcohol, coconut alcohol, decyl alcohol, hydrogenated tallow
alcohol, jojoba alcohol, lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, oleyl
alcohol, palm alcohol, palm kernel alcohol, stearyl alcohol, tallow
alcohol, and tridecyl alcohol.
[0159] As used herein, "alkoxylated fatty alcohol" refers to any
fatty alcohol with a carbon chain of C5 or greater, as defined
above, further comprising at least one alkoxy group. For example,
the at least one alkoxylated fatty alcohol may have a carbon chain
of C8 or greater, C10 or greater, and C12 or greater. Further, for
example, the at least one alkoxylated fatty alcohol may be chosen
from alkoxylated polymers (including co-, ter- and homo-polymers)
derived from alcohols such as glycerol (e.g. polyglyceryl derived
from four glycerol molecules). The at least one alkoxy group of the
at least one alkoxylated fatty alcohol may, for example, be derived
from an alkoxylation reaction carried out with alkylene oxide.
Non-limiting examples of at least one alkoxylated fatty alcohol
include any fatty alcohol comprising at least one polyethylene
glycol ether and any fatty alcohol comprising at least one
polypropylene glycol ether.
[0160] Non-limiting examples of the at least one alkoxylated fatty
alcohol include ceteareth-2, ceteareth-3, ceteareth-4, ceteareth-5,
ceteareth-6, ceteareth-7, ceteareth-8, ceteareth-9, ceteareth-10,
ceteareth-11, ceteareth-12, ceteareth-13, ceteareth-14,
ceteareth-15, ceteareth-16, ceteareth-17, ceteareth-18,
ceteareth-20, ceteareth-22, ceteareth-23, ceteareth-24,
ceteareth-25, ceteareth-27, ceteareth-28, ceteareth-29,
ceteareth-30, cetearel:h-33, ceteareth-34, ceteareth-40,
ceteareth-50, ceteareth-55, ceteareth-60, ceteareth-80,
ceteareth-100, laureth-1, laureth-2, laureth-3, laureth-4,
laureth-5, laureth-6, laureth-7, laureth-8, laureth-9, laureth-10,
laureth-11, laureth-12, laureth-13, laureth-14, laureth-15,
lauretih-16, laureth-20, laureth-23, laureth-25, laureth-30,
laureth-40, deceth-3, deceth-5, oleth-5, oleth-30, steareth-2,
steareth-10, steareth-20, steareth-100, cetylsteareth-12,
ceteareth-5, ceteareth-5, polyglyceryl 4-lauryl ether, polyglyceryl
4-oleyl ether, polyglyceryl 2-oleyl ether, polyglyceryl 2-cetyl
ether, polyglyceryl 6-cetyl ether, polyglyceryl 6-oleylcetyl ether,
polyglyceryl 6-octadecyl ether, C9-C11 pareth-3, C9-C11 pareth-6,
C11-C15 pareth-3, C11-C15 pareth-5, C11-C15 pareth-12, C 11-C15
pareth-20, C12-C15 pareth-9, C12-C15 pareth-12, and C22-C24
pareth-33.
[0161] The fatty alcohols usable as fatty substances in the
composition of the disclosure include, but are not limited to,
non-alkoxylated, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, and
have from 6 to 30 carbon atoms and more particularly from 8 to 30
carbon atoms; For example, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and their
mixture (cetylstearyl alcohol), octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol,
2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, oleic alcohol or linoleic
alcohol.
[0162] The exemplary non-silicone wax or waxes that can be used in
the composition of the disclosure are chosen from carnauba wax,
candelilla wax, and Alfa wax, paraffin wax, ozokerite, vegetable
waxes such as olive wax, rice wax, hydrogenated jojoba wax or
absolute waxes of flowers such as the essential wax of blackcurrant
flower sold by the company BERTIN (France), animal waxes such as
beeswaxes, or modified beeswaxes (cerabellina); other waxes or waxy
raw materials usable according to the disclosure are, for example,
marine waxes such as that sold by the company SOPHIM under
reference M82, waxes of polyethylene or of polyolefins in
general.
[0163] The exemplary fatty acid esters are the esters of saturated
or unsaturated, linear or branched C1-C26 aliphatic mono- or
polyacids and of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched
C1-C26 aliphatic mono- or polyalcohols, the total number of carbons
of the esters being, for example, greater than or equal to 10.
[0164] Among the monoesters, non-limiting mentions can be made of
dihydroabietyl behenate; octyldodecyl behenate; isocetyl behenate;
cetyl lactate; C12-C15 alkyl lactate; isostearyl lactate; lauryl
lactate; linoleyl lactate; oleyl lactate; (iso)stearyl octanoate;
isocetyl octanoate; octyl octanoate; cetyl octanoate; decyl oleate;
isocetyl isostearate; isocetyl laurate; isocetyl stearate; isodecyl
octanoate; isodecyl oleate; isononyl isononanoate; isostearyl
palmitate; methyl acetyl ricinoleate; myristyl stearate; octyl
isononanoate; 2-ethylhexyl isononate; octyl palmitate; octyl
pelargonate; octyl stearate; octyldodecyl erucate; oleyl erucate;
ethyl and isopropyl palmitates, ethyl-2-hexyl palmitate,
2-octyldecyl palmitate, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl, butyl,
cetyl, 2-octyldodecyl, mirystyl, stearyl myristate, hexyl stearate,
butyl stearate, isobutyl stearate; dioctyl malate, hexyl laurate,
and 2-hexyldecyl laurate.
[0165] Further non-limiting mentions of esters can be made of the
esters of C4-C22 di- or tricarboxylic acids and of C1-C22 alcohols
and the esters of mono-, di- or tricarboxylic acids and of C2-C26
di-, tri-, tetra- or pentahydroxy alcohols.
[0166] Even further non-limiting examples of esters include:
diethyl sebacate; diisopropyl sebacate; diisopropyl adipate;
di-n-propyl adipate; dioctyl adipate; diisostearyl adipate; dioctyl
maleate; glyceryl undecylenate; octyldodecyl stearoyl stearate;
pentaerythrityl monoricinoleate; pentaerythrityl tetraisononanoate;
pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate; pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate;
pentaerythrityl tetraoctanoate; propylene glycol dicaprylate;
propylene glycol dicaprate, tridecyl erucate; triisopropyl citrate;
triisotearyl citrate; glyceryl trilactate; glyceryl trioctanoate;
trioctyldodecyl citrate; trioleyl citrate, propylene glycol
dioctanoate; neopentyl glycol diheptanoate; diethylene glycol
diisanonate; glycol distearates; and polyethylene glycol
distearates.
[0167] Among the esters mentioned above, exemplary esters include
ethyl, isopropyl, myristyl, cetyl, stearyl palmitates,
ethyl-2-hexyl palmitate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate, alkyl myristates
such as isopropyl, butyl, cetyl, 2-octyldodecyl myristate, hexyl
stearate, butyl stearate, isobutyl stearate; dioctyl malate, hexyl
laurate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate and isononyl isononanate, cetyl
octanoate.
[0168] The composition can also comprise, as fatty ester, esters
and di-esters of sugars of C6-C30, such as C12-C22 fatty acids.
"Sugar" as used in the disclosure means oxygen-containing
hydrocarbon compounds that possess several alcohol functions, with
or without aldehyde or ketone functions, and having at least 4
carbon atoms. These sugars can be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides
or polysaccharides.
[0169] As suitable sugars, non-limiting examples include sucrose,
glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose,
arabinose, xylose, lactose, and their derivatives, for example
alkylated, such as methylated derivatives such as
methylglucose.
[0170] The esters of sugars and of fatty acids can, for example, be
chosen from the esters or mixtures of esters of sugars described
previously and of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated
C6-C30, such as C12-C22 fatty acids. If they are unsaturated, these
compounds can have one to three, conjugated or unconjugated,
carbon-carbon double bonds.
[0171] The esters according to at least one embodiment can also be
chosen from mono-di-, tri- and tetra-esters, polyesters and
mixtures thereof.
[0172] These esters can be for example oleate, laurate, palmitate,
myristate, behenate, cocoate, stearate, linoleate, linolenate,
caprate, arachidonates, or mixtures thereof such as the
oleo-palmitate, oleo-stearate, palmito-stearate mixed esters.
[0173] For example, the mono- and di-esters can be used, and such
as the mono- or di-oleate, stearate, behenate, oleopalmitate,
linoleate, linolenate, oleostearate, of sucrose, of glucose or of
methylglucose.
[0174] Non-limiting mention can be made of the product sold under
the name GLUCATE.RTM. DO by the company Amerchol, which is a
dioleate of methylglucose.
[0175] Exemplary esters or of mixtures of esters of sugar of fatty
acid include: the products sold under the names F160, F140, F110,
F90, F70, SL40 by the company Crodesta, denoting respectively the
palmito-stearates of sucrose formed from 73% of monoester and 27%
of di- and tri-ester, from 61% of monoester and 39% of di-, tri-,
and tetra-ester, from 52% of monoester and 48% of di-, tri-, and
tetra-ester, from 45% of monoester and 55% of di-, tri-, and
tetra-ester, from 39% of monoester and 61% of di-, tri-, and
tetra-ester, and the mono-laurate of sucrose; the products sold
under the name Ryoto Sugar Esters for example with the reference
B370 and corresponding to the behenate of sucrose formed from 20%
of monoester and 80% of di-triester-polyester; sucrose
mono-di-palmito-stearate marketed by the company Goldschmidt under
the name TEGOSOFT.RTM. PSE.
Surfactants
[0176] In some embodiments, the hair color-altering compositions
comprise at least one surfactant selected from anionic surfactants,
nonionic surfactants and mixtures thereof.
[0177] The total amount of the one or more surfactants included in
the hair color-altering compositions can vary, especially depending
on the type of hair color-altering composition in with they are
contained. The total amount of the one or more surfactants is
typically about 0.1 to about 40 wt. %, based on the total weight of
the hair color-altering composition, including all ranges and
subranges therebetween. In some cases, the total amount of the one
or more surfactants is about 0.1 to about 35 wt. %, about 0.1 to
about 30 wt. %, about 0.1 to about 25 wt. %, about 0.1 to about 20
wt. %, about 0.1 to about 15 wt. %, about 0.1 to about 10 wt. %,
about 0.1 to about 5 wt. %, about 0.5 to about 40 wt. %, about 0.5
to about 35 wt. %, about 0.5 to about 30 wt. %, about 0.5 to about
25 wt. %, about 0.5 to about 20 wt. %, about 0.5 to about 15 wt. %,
about 0.5 to about 10 wt. %, about 0.5 to about 5 wt. %, about 1
wt. % to about 40 wt. %, about 1 wt. % to about 30 wt. %, about 1
wt. % to about 20 wt. %, about 1 wt. % to about 15 wt. %, about 1
wt. % to about 10 wt. %, or about 1 wt. % to about 5 wt. %.
Anionic Surfactants
[0178] The term "anionic surfactant" means a surfactant comprising,
as ionic or ionizable groups, only anionic groups. These anionic
groups are chosen preferably from the groups CO.sub.2H,
CO.sub.2.sup.-, SO.sub.3H, SO.sub.3.sup.-, OSO.sub.3H,
OSO.sub.3.sup.-O.sub.2PO.sub.2H, O.sub.2PO.sub.2H and
O.sub.2PO.sub.2.sup.2-.
[0179] The hair color-altering compositions may include one or more
anionic surfactants. Non-limiting examples of anionic surfactants
include alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, acyl isethionates,
acyl glycinates, acyl taurates, acyl amino acids, acyl
sarcosinates, sulfosuccinates, sulfonates, and a mixture thereof,
wherein the alkyl and acyl groups of all these compounds comprise
from 6 to 24 carbon atoms. In some cases, anionic sulfate
surfactants may be excluded from the one or more anionic
surfactants. In such cases, the one or more anionic surfactants may
be selected from the group consisting of acyl isethionates, acyl
glycinates, acyl taurates, acyl amino acids, acyl sarcosinates,
sulfosuccinates, sulfonates, and a mixture thereof, wherein the
alkyl and acyl groups of all these compounds comprise from 6 to 24
carbon atoms. A more exhaustive list of anionic surfactants that
may be included in the hair color-altering compositions is provided
later, under the heading "Anionic Surfactants."
[0180] The total amount of the one or more anionic surfactants may
be about 1 to about 40 wt. %, based on the total weight of the hair
color-altering composition, including all ranges and subranges
therebetween. Furthermore, the total amount of the one or more
anionic surfactants may be about 1 to about 35 wt. %, about 1 to
about 30 wt. %, about 5 wt. % to about 40 wt. %, about 5 wt. % to
about 25 wt. %, about 5 wt. % to about 30 wt. %, about 10 wt. % to
about 40 wt. %, about 10 wt. % to about 35 wt. %, or about 15 wt. %
to about 40 wt. %.
[0181] The anionic surfactant(s) that may be used may be alkyl
sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, alkylamido ether sulfates,
alkylaryl polyether sulfates, monoglyceride sulfates,
alkylsulfonates, alkylamide sulfonates, alkylarylsulfonates,
alpha-olefin sulfonates, paraffin sulfonates, alkylsulfosuccinates,
alkyl ether sulfosuccinates, alkylamide sulfosuccinates, alkyl
sulfoacetates, acylsarcosinates, acylglutamates,
alkylsulfosuccinamates, acylisethionates and N-acyltaurates, salts
of alkyl monoesters and polyglycoside-polycarboxylic acids,
acyllactylates, salts of D-galactoside uronic acids, salts of alkyl
ether carboxylic acids, salts of alkyl aryl ether carboxylic acids,
and salts of alkylamido ether carboxylic acids; or the non-salified
forms of all of these compounds, the alkyl and acyl groups of all
of these compounds containing from 6 to 24 carbon atoms and the
aryl group denoting a phenyl group. Some of these compounds may be
oxyethylenated and then preferably comprise from 1 to 50 ethylene
oxide units.
[0182] The salts of C.sub.6-C.sub.24 alkyl monoesters of
polyglycoside-polycarboxylic acids may be chosen from
C.sub.6-C.sub.24 alkyl polyglycoside-citrates, C.sub.6-C.sub.24
alkyl polyglycoside-tartrates and C.sub.6-C.sub.24 alkyl
polyglycoside-sulfo succinates.
[0183] When the anionic surfactant(s) are in salt form, they may be
chosen especially from alkali metal salts such as the sodium or
potassium salt and preferably the sodium salt, ammonium salts,
amine salts and in particular amino alcohol salts, or
alkaline-earth metal salts such as the magnesium salt.
[0184] Examples of amino alcohol salts that may especially be
mentioned include monoethanolamine, diethanolamine and
triethanolamine salts, monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine or
triisopropanolamine salts, 2-amino-2-methyl-1-propanol salts,
2-amino-2-methyl-1,3-propanediol salts and
tris(hydroxymethyl)aminomethane salts. Alkali metal or
alkaline-earth metal salts and in particular the sodium or
magnesium salts may be used.
[0185] Use is also made of (C.sub.6-C.sub.24)alkyl sulfates,
(C.sub.6-C.sub.24)alkyl ether sulfates, which are optionally
ethoxylated, comprising from 2 to 50 ethylene oxide units, and a
mixture thereof, in particular in the form of alkali metal salts or
alkaline-earth metal salts, ammonium salts or amino alcohol salts.
More preferentially, the anionic surfactant(s) are chosen from
(C.sub.10-C.sub.20)alkyl ether sulfates, and in particular sodium
lauryl ether sulfate.
Non-Ionic Surfactants
[0186] Non-ionic surfactants are compounds well known in themselves
(see, e.g., in this regard, "Handbook of Surfactants" by M. R.
Porter, Blackie & Son publishers (Glasgow and London), 1991,
pp. 116-178), which is incorporated herein by reference in its
entirety.
[0187] The total amount of the one or more non-ionic surfactants
may be about 1 to about 40 wt. %, based on the total weight of the
hair color-altering composition, including all ranges and subranges
therebetween. Furthermore, the total amount of the one or more
non-ionic surfactants may be about 1 to about 35 wt. %, about 1 to
about 30 wt. %, about 5 wt. % to about 40 wt. %, about 5 wt. % to
about 25 wt. %, about 5 wt. % to about 30 wt. %, about 10 wt. % to
about 40 wt. %, about 10 wt. % to about 35 wt. %, or about 15 wt. %
to about 40 wt. %.
[0188] The non-ionic surfactant can be, for example, selected from
alcohols, alpha-diols, alkylphenols and esters of fatty acids,
these compounds being ethoxylated, propoxylated or glycerolated and
having at least one fatty chain comprising, for example, from 8 to
18 carbon atoms, it being possible for the number of ethylene oxide
or propylene oxide groups to range from 2 to 50, and for the number
of glycerol groups to range from 1 to 30. Maltose derivatives may
also be mentioned. Non-limiting mention may also be made of
copolymers of ethylene oxide and/or of propylene oxide; condensates
of ethylene oxide and/or of propylene oxide with fatty alcohols;
polyethoxylated fatty amides comprising, for example, from 2 to 30
mol of ethylene oxide; polyglycerolated fatty amides comprising,
for example, from 1.5 to 5 glycerol groups, such as from 1.5 to 4;
ethoxylated fatty acid esters of sorbitan comprising from 2 to 30
mol of ethylene oxide; ethoxylated oils from plant origin; fatty
acid esters of sucrose; fatty acid esters of polyethylene glycol;
polyethoxylated fatty acid mono or diesters of glycerol
(C.sub.6-C.sub.24)alkylpolyglycosides;
N--(C.sub.6-C.sub.24)alkylglucamine derivatives, amine oxides such
as (C.sub.10-C.sub.14)alkylamine oxides or
N--(C.sub.10-C.sub.14)acylaminopropylmorpholine oxides; and a
mixture thereof.
[0189] The nonionic surfactants may preferably be chosen from
polyoxyalkylenated or polyglycerolated nonionic surfactants. The
oxyalkylene units are more particularly oxyethylene or oxypropylene
units, or a mixture thereof, and are preferably oxyethylene
units.
[0190] Examples of oxyalkylenated nonionic surfactants that may be
mentioned include:
[0191] oxyalkylenated (C.sub.8-C.sub.24)alkylphenols, saturated or
unsaturated, linear or branched, oxyalkylenated C.sub.8-C.sub.30
alcohols, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched,
oxyalkylenated C.sub.8-C.sub.30 amides, esters of saturated or
unsaturated, linear or branched, C.sub.8-C.sub.30 acids and of
polyethylene glycols, polyoxyalkylenated esters of saturated or
unsaturated, linear or branched, C.sub.8-C.sub.30 acids and of
sorbitol, saturated or unsaturated, oxyalkylenated plant oils,
condensates of ethylene oxide and/or of propylene oxide, inter
alia, alone or as mixtures.
[0192] As examples of polyglycerolated nonionic surfactants,
polyglycerolated C.sub.8-C.sub.40 alcohols are preferably used. In
particular, the polyglycerolated C.sub.8-C.sub.40 alcohols
correspond to the following formula:
RO--[CH.sub.2--CH(CH.sub.2OH)--O].sub.m--H or
RO--[CH(CH.sub.2OH)--CH.sub.2O].sub.m--H
[0193] in which R represents a linear or branched C.sub.8-C.sub.40
and preferably C.sub.8-C.sub.30 alkyl or alkenyl radical, and m
represents a number ranging from 1 to 30 and preferably from 1.5 to
10.
[0194] As examples of compounds that are suitable in the context of
the invention, mention may be made of lauryl alcohol containing 4
mol of glycerol (INCI name: Polyglyceryl-4 Lauryl Ether), lauryl
alcohol containing 1.5 mol of glycerol, oleyl alcohol containing 4
mol of glycerol (INCI name: Polyglyceryl-4 Oleyl Ether), oleyl
alcohol containing 2 mol of glycerol (INCI name: Polyglyceryl-2
Oleyl Ether), cetearyl alcohol containing 2 mol of glycerol,
cetearyl alcohol containing 6 mol of glycerol, oleocetyl alcohol
containing 6 mol of glycerol, and octadecanol containing 6 mol of
glycerol.
[0195] According to one of the embodiments according to the present
invention, the nonionic surfactant may be selected from esters of
polyols with fatty acids with a saturated or unsaturated chain
containing for example from 8 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably 12 to
22 carbon atoms, and alkoxylated derivatives thereof, preferably
with a number of alkyleneoxide of from 10 to 200, and more
preferably from 10 to 100, such as glyceryl esters of a
C.sub.8-C.sub.24, preferably C.sub.12-C.sub.22, fatty acid or acids
and alkoxylated derivatives thereof, preferably with a number of
alkyleneoxide of from 10 to 200, and more preferably from 10 to
100; polyethylene glycol esters of a C.sub.8-C.sub.24, preferably
C.sub.12-C.sub.22, fatty acid or acids and alkoxylated derivatives
thereof, preferably with a number of alkyleneoxide of from 10 to
200, and more preferably from 10 to 100; sorbitol esters of a
C.sub.8-C.sub.24, preferably C.sub.12-C.sub.22, fatty acid or acids
and alkoxylated derivatives thereof, preferably with a number of
alkyleneoxide of from 10 to 200, and more preferably from 10 to
100; sugar (sucrose, glucose, alkylglycose) esters of a
C.sub.8-C.sub.24, preferably C.sub.12-C.sub.22, fatty acid or acids
and alkoxylated derivatives thereof, preferably with a number of
alkyleneoxide of from 10 to 200, and more preferably from 10 to
100; ethers of fatty alcohols; ethers of sugar and a
C.sub.8-C.sub.24, preferably C.sub.12-C.sub.22, fatty alcohol or
alcohols; and a mixture thereof.
[0196] Preferably, the nonionic surfactant may be a nonionic
surfactant with an HLB of 18.0 or less, such as from 4.0 to 18.0,
more preferably from 6.0 to 15.0 and furthermore preferably from
9.0 to 13.0. The HLB is the ratio between the hydrophilic part and
the lipophilic part in the molecule. This term HLB is well known to
those skilled in the art and is described in "The HLB system. A
time-saving guide to emulsifier selection" (published by ICI
Americas Inc., 1984).
[0197] In some case, the nonionic surfactant is a fatty
alkanolamide. Non-limiting examples of fatty alkanolamides that may
be used include cocamide MEA, cocamide DEA, soyamide DEA, lauramide
DEA, oleamide MIPA, stearamide MEA, myristamide DEA, stearamide
DEA, oleylamide DEA, tallowamide DEA lauramide MIPA, tallowamide
MEA, isostearamide DEA, isostearamide MEA, and a mixture
thereof.
Cationic Polymer
[0198] In some instances, the hair color-altering compositions
include one or more cationic polymers. Non-limiting examples of
cationic polymers include poly(methacryloyloxyethyl
trimethylammonium chloride), polyquaternium-37, quaternized
cellulose derivatives, polyquaternium-4, polyquaternium-10,
cationic alkyl polyglycosides, cationized honey, cationic guar
derivatives, polymeric dimethyl diallyl ammonium salts and
copolymers thereof with esters and amides of acrylic acid and
methacrylic acid, copolymers of vinyl pyrrolidone with quaternized
derivatives of dialkylaminoalkyl acrylate and methacrylate, vinyl
pyrrolidone-vinyl imidazolium methochloride copolymers, quaternized
polyvinyl alcohol, polyquaternium-2, polyquaternium-7,
polyquaternium-17, polyquaternium-18, polyquaternium-24,
polyquaternium-27, and a mixture thereof. In some instances, the
one or more cationic polymers may be selected from the group
consisting of polyquaternium-4, polyquaternium-10, cationic guar
derivatives, and a mixture thereof.
[0199] The cationic polymers can be a monoalkyl quaternary amine,
such as stearyltrimonium chloride, soyatrimonium chloride or
coco-ethyldimonium ethosulfate. Other suitable cationic polymers
include, but are not limited to, behentrimonium chloride, dialkyl
quaternary amines, such as dicetyldimonium chloride, dicocodimethyl
ammonium chloride or distearyldimethyl ammonium chloride; and
polyquaternium compounds, such as Polyquaternium-6,
Polyquaternium-22 or Polyquaternium-5.
[0200] For example, cationic polymers may be chosen from
polyquaterium-10 (also called quaternized polyhydroxyethyl
cellulose), cetrimonium chloride (also called cetyl trimethyl
ammonium chloride, CTAC), behentrimonium chloride (also known as
docosyl trimethyl ammonium chloride), behentrimonium methosulfate,
steartrimonium chloride, stearalkonium chloride, dicetyldimonium
chloride, hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, cocotrimonium
methosulfate, olealkonium chloride, steartrimonium chloride,
babassuamidopropalkonium chloride, brassicamidopropyl
dimethylamine, Quaternium-91, Salcare/PQ-37, Quaternium-22,
Quaternium-87, Polyquaternium-4, Polyquaternium-6,
Polyquaternium-11, Polyquaternium-44, Polyquaternium-67,
amodimethicone, lauryl betaine, Polyacrylate-1 Crosspolymer,
steardimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed wheat protein,
behenamidopropyl PG-dimonium chloride, lauryldimonium hydroxypropyl
hydrolyzed soy protein, aminopropyl dimethicone, Quaterium-8, and
dilinoleamidopropyl dimethylamine dimethicone PEG-7 phosphate.
[0201] In some instances, the cationic polymers are cationic
conditioning polymers. Examples of cationic conditioning polymers
that can be used include, without limitation, cationic cellulose,
cationic proteins, and cationic polymers. The cationic polymers can
have a vinyl group backbone of amino and/or quaternary ammonium
monomers. Cationic amino and quaternary ammonium monomers include,
without limitation, dialkylamino alkylmethacrylate,
monoalkylaminoalkyl acrylate, monoalkylaminoalkyl methacrylate,
trialkyl methacryoloxyalkyl ammonium salt, trialkyl acryloxyalkyl
ammonium salts, diallyl quaternary ammonium salts, vinyl compounds
substituted with dialkyl aminoalkyl acrylate, and vinyl quaternary
ammonium monomers having cyclic cationic nitrogen containing rings
such as pyridinium, imidazolium, or quaternized pyrrolidine. Other
examples of cationic conditioning polymers that can be used
include, without limitation, hydroxypropyltrimonium honey,
cocodimonium silk amino acids, cocodimonium hydroxypropyl
hydrolyzed wheat or silk protein, polyquaternium-5,
polyquaternium-11, polyquaternium-2, polyquaternium-4,
polyquaternium-6, polyquaternium-7, polyquaternium-14,
polyquaternium-16, polyquaternium-22, polyquaternium-10, and guar
hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride.
[0202] In some cases quaternized polymeric cationic polymers are
particularly useful. Particularly preferred are quaternary nitrogen
polymers prepared by the polymerization of a dialkyldiallylammonium
salt or copolymer thereof in which the alkyl group contains 1 to
about 18 carbon atoms, and more preferably where the alkyl group is
methyl or ethyl. Details concerning the preparation of these
polymers can be found in U.S. Pat. Nos. 3,288,770, 3,412,019 and
4,772,462, incorporated herein by reference. For example, cationic
homopolymers and copolymers of polydiallyldimethylammonium chloride
are available in aqueous compositions sold under the trademark
MERQUAT by the Calgon Corporation, subsidiary of Merck & Co.,
Pittsburgh, Pa. The homopolymer, which is named Polyquaternium-6 is
sold under the trademark MERQUAT-100, and is described as having a
weight average molecular weight of approximately 100,000. A
copolymer reaction product of dimethyldiallylammonium chloride with
acrylamide monomers is named Polyquaternium-7 is described as
having a weight average molecular weight of approximately 500,000
and is sold under the trademark MERQUAT-550. Another copolymer
reaction product of dimethyldiallylammonium chloride with acrylic
acids having a weight average molecular weight from about 50,000 to
about 10,000,000 has the name Polyquaternium-22 and is sold under
the trademark MERQUAT-280. Polyquaternium-6 is particularly
preferred.
[0203] Other polymeric conditioners include cationic copolymers of
methylvinylimidazolium chloride and vinyl pyrrolidone, sold
commercially by BASF Aktiengesellschaft, West Germany under the
trademark LUVIQUAT at three comonomer ratios, namely at ratios of
95/5, 50/50 and 30/70 methylvinylimidazolium chloride to
polyvinylpyrrolidone. These copolymers at all three comonomer
ratios have the name Polyquaternium 16. Polymeric conditioners also
include cationic cellulosic polymers of hydroxyethyl cellulose
reacted with epichlorohydrin and quaternized with trimethylamine,
sold under the trademark POLYMER JR in various viscosity grades and
molecular sizes by Union Carbide Corporation, Danbury, Conn. These
series of polymers are named Polyquaternium 10. Also useful are
quaternized copolymers of hydroxyethylcellulose and
dimethyldimethylammonium chloride, having the name
Polyquaternium-4, sold in varying molecular weights under the
trademark CELQUAT by National Starch and Chemical Corporation,
Bridgewater, N.J.
[0204] The total amount of the one or more cationic polymers, when
included in the hair color-altering composition, is typically about
0.01 to about 15 wt. %, based on the total weight of the
composition, including all ranges and subranges therebetween. The
total amount of the one or more cationic polymers may be about 0.01
to about 8 wt. %, about 0.01 to about 6 wt. %, about 0.01 to about
5 wt. %, about 0.05 to about 8 wt. %, about 0.05 to about 6 wt. %,
about 0.05 to about 5 wt. %, about 0.1 to about 10 wt. %, about 0.1
to about 8 wt. %, about 0.1 to about 6 wt. %, or about 0.1 to about
5 wt.
Solvent
[0205] In one or more embodiments, the hair color-altering
compositions described herein comprise a solvent. In some
embodiments, the solvent comprises water. The total amount of water
in the hair color-altering compositions may vary depending on the
type of composition and the desired consistency, viscosity, etc. In
some cases, the total amount of water is about 50 to 95 wt. %,
based on the total weight of the hair color-altering composition,
including all ranges and subranges therebetween. The total amount
of water may be about 50 to about 90 wt. %, about 50 to about 85
wt. %, about 60 to 95 wt. %, about 60 to 90 wt. %, about 60 to
about 85 wt. %, greater than 60 to about 95 wt. %, greater than 60
to about 90 wt. %, greater than 60 to about 85 wt. %, about 65 to
about 95 wt. %, about 65 to about 90 wt. %, about 65 to about 85
wt. %, about 70 to about 95 wt. %, or about 70 to about 90 wt. %.
In some instances, the total amount of water is greater than 60 wt.
%. For example, the total amount of water may be at least 61, 62,
63, 64, 65, 66, 67, 68, 69, or 70 wt. % up to about 90 or about 95
wt. %. Likewise, the total amount of water may be at least 61, 62,
63, 64, 65, 66, 67, 68, 69, or 70 wt. % to about 95 wt. %, 61, 62,
63, 64, 65, 66, 67, 68, 69, or 70 wt. % to about 90 wt. %, or about
70 wt. % to about 90 wt. %.
[0206] In some embodiments, the composition may comprise other
solvents, for example, glycerin, C.sub.1-4 alcohols, organic
solvents, fatty alcohols, fatty ethers, fatty esters, polyols,
glycols, vegetable oils, mineral oils, liposomes, laminar lipid
materials, or any a mixture thereof. As examples of organic
solvents, non-limiting mentions can be made of monoalcohols and
polyols such as ethyl alcohol, isopropyl alcohol, propyl alcohol,
benzyl alcohol, and phenylethyl alcohol, or glycols or glycol
ethers such as, for example, monomethyl, monoethyl and monobutyl
ethers of ethylene glycol, propylene glycol or ethers thereof such
as, for example, monomethyl ether of propylene glycol, butylene
glycol, hexylene glycol, dipropylene glycol as well as alkyl ethers
of diethylene glycol, for example monoethyl ether or monobutyl
ether of diethylene glycol. Other suitable examples of organic
solvents are ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol,
hexylene glycol, propane diol, and glycerin. The organic solvents
can be volatile or non-volatile compounds.
[0207] Further non-limiting examples of solvents which may be used
include alkanediols (polyhydric alcohols) such as glycerin,
1,2,6-hexanetriol, trimethylolpropane, ethylene glycol, propylene
glycol, diethylene glycol, triethylene glycol, tetraethylene
glycol, pentaethylene glycol, dipropylene glycol,
2-butene-1,4-diol, 2-ethyl-1,3-hexanediol,
2-methyl-2,4-pentanediol, (caprylyl glycol), 1,2-hexanediol,
1,2-pentanediol, and 4-methyl-1,2-pentanediol; alkyl alcohols
having 1 to 4 carbon atoms such as ethanol, methanol, butanol,
propanol, and isopropanol; glycol ethers such as ethylene glycol
monomethyl ether, ethylene glycol monoethyl ether, ethylene glycol
monobutyl ether, ethylene glycol monomethyl ether acetate,
diethylene glycol monomethyl ether, diethylene glycol monoethyl
ether, diethylene glycol mono-n-propyl ether, ethylene glycol
mono-iso-propyl ether, diethylene glycol mono-iso-propyl ether,
ethylene glycol mono-n-butyl ether, ethylene glycol mono-t-butyl
ether, diethylene glycol mono-t-butyl ether,
1-methyl-1-methoxybutanol, propylene glycol monomethyl ether,
propylene glycol monoethyl ether, propylene glycol mono-t-butyl
ether, propylene glycol mono-n-propyl ether, propylene glycol
mono-iso-propyl ether, dipropylene glycol monomethyl ether,
dipropylene glycol monoethyl ether, dipropylene glycol
mono-n-propyl ether, and dipropylene glycol mono-iso-propyl ether;
2-pyrrolidone, N-methyl-2-pyrrolidone,
1,3-dimethyl-2-imidazolidinone, formamide, acetamide, dimethyl
sulfoxide, sorbit, sorbitan, acetine, diacetine, triacetine,
sulfolane, and a mixture thereof.
[0208] In some cases, the water-soluble solvent may be selected
from the group consisting of one or more glycols, C.sub.1-4
alcohols, glycerin, and a mixture thereof. In some cases, the
water-soluble solvent is selected from the group consisting of
hexylene glycol, proplene glycol, caprylyl glycol, glycerin,
isopropyl alcohol, and a mixture thereof.
[0209] Polyhydric alcohols are useful. Examples of polyhydric
alcohols include glycerin, ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol,
triethylene glycol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol,
tripropylene glycol, 1,3-butanediol, 2,3-butanediol,
1,4-butanediol, 3-methyl-1,3-butanediol, 1,5-pentanediol,
tetraethylene glycol, 1,6-hexanediol, 2-methyl-2,4-pentanediol,
polyethylene glycol, 1,2,4-butanetriol, 1,2,6-hexanetriol, and a
mixture thereof.
[0210] Polyol compounds may also be used. Non-limiting examples
include the aliphatic diols, such as
2-ethyl-2-methyl-1,3-propanediol, 3,3-dimethyl-1,2-butanediol,
2,2-diethyl-1,3-propanediol, 2-methyl-2-propyl-1,3-propanediol,
2,4-dimethyl-2,4-pentanediol, 2,5-dimethyl-2,5-hexanediol,
5-hexene-1,2-diol, and 2-ethyl-1,3-hexanediol, and a mixture
thereof.
[0211] The total amount of the water-soluble solvents (which is
separate than the water in the compositions) may vary, but in some
cases are about 0.01 to about 50 wt. %, based on the total weight
of the composition. The total amount of the water-soluble solvents
(separate from the water in the compositions), is about 0.01 to
about 40 wt. %, about 0.01 to about 30 wt. %, about 0.01 to about
20 wt. %, about 0.01 to about 10 wt. %, about 0.01 to about 5 wt.
%, 0.1 to about 40 wt. %, about 0.1 to about 30 wt. %, about 0.1 to
about 20 wt. %, about 0.1 to about 10 wt. %, or about 0.1 to about
5 wt. %.
Thickening Agent
[0212] In some embodiments, the hair color-altering composition
further comprises a thickening agent. In other embodiments, the
hair color-altering composition does not comprise a thickening
agent.
[0213] The hair color-altering compositions may contain one or more
thickeners (also referred to as thickening agents or viscosity
modifying agents). Classes of such agents include, but are not
limited to, viscous liquids, such as polyethylene glycol,
semisynthetic polymers, such as semisynthetic cellulose
derivatives, synthetic polymers, such as carbomers, poloxamers, and
acrylates/beheneth-25 methacrylate copolymer, acrylates copolymer,
polyethyleneimines (e.g., PEI-10), naturally occurring polymers,
such as acacia, tragacanth, alginates (e.g., sodium alginate),
carrageenan, vegetable gums, such as xanthan gum, petroleum jelly,
waxes, particulate associate colloids, such as bentonite, colloidal
silicon dioxide, and microcrystalline cellulose, surfactants, such
as PPG-2 hydroxyethyl coco/isostearamide, emulsifiers, such as
disteareth-75 IPDI, and salts, such as sodium chloride, starches,
such as hydroxypropyl starch phosphate, potato starch (modified or
unmodified), celluloses such as hydroxyethylcellulose, guars such
as hydroxypropyl guar, and a mixture thereof.
[0214] In some cases, the thickening agents may include one or more
associative thickening polymers such as anionic associative
polymers, amphoteric associative polymers, cationic associative
polymers, nonionic associative polymers, and a mixture thereof. A
non-limiting example of an amphoteric associative polymer is
acrylates/beheneth-25methacrylate copolymer, sold under the
tradename NOVETHIX L-10 (Lubrizol). Non-limiting examples of
anionic associative polymers include INCI name: acrylates
copolymer, sold under the tradename CARBOPOL Aqua SF-1 (Lubrizol),
INCI name: acrylates crosspolymer-4, sold under the tradename
CARBOPOL Aqua SF-2 (Lubrizol), and a mixture thereof. The
associative thickening polymers, for instance, the acrylates
copolymer and/or the acrylates crosspolymer-4, may be neutralized
in water or an aqueous solution with a neutralizing agent before
the polymer is added into a hair color-altering composition.
[0215] In some embodiments, the thickener is chosen from
hydroxyethylcellulose, cetyl hydroxyethylcellulose, and
combinations thereof.
[0216] The total amount of the one or more thickening agents may
vary, but in some cases is about 0.1 to about 15 wt. %, about 0.1
to about 10 wt. %, about 0.1 to about 8 wt. %, about 0.1 to about 6
wt. %, about 0.1 to about 5 wt. %, about 0.5 to about 10 wt. %,
about 0.5 to about 8 wt. %, about 0.5 to about wt. %, about 0.5 to
about 5 wt. %, about 1 to about 10 wt. %, about 1 to about 8 wt. %,
about 1 to about 6 wt. %, or about 1 to about 5 wt. %, based on the
total weight of the composition.
Optional Components
[0217] The composition according to the disclosure can comprise any
auxiliary or additional component suitable for use in cosmetic
compositions, and in particular suitable for hair coloring or
lightening compositions. Such components may include, but are not
limited to, cosmetically acceptable solvents, silicone compounds,
rheology modifying agents such as acrylic polymers, cationic,
nonionic, amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants or mixtures
thereof, anionic, cationic, nonionic, amphoteric or zwitterionic
polymers or mixtures, film forming agents or polymers, humectants
and moisturizing agents, fatty substances other than the claimed
fatty substances, emulsifying agents other than fatty substances,
fillers, structuring agents, propellants, shine agents,
conditioning agents, antioxidants or reducing agents, penetrants,
sequestrants, fragrances, buffers, dispersants, conditioning
agents, for instance volatile or non-volatile, modified or
unmodified silicones, ceramides, preserving agents, opacifiers,
sunscreen agents, and antistatic agents. Acids, for example citric
acid, can affect the pH of the system resulting in loss of lift. As
such, optional auxiliary or additional components will be chosen so
as to minimize any detrimental effect to the advantages of the hair
color bases and compositions described herein.
[0218] Exemplary auxiliary ingredients useful in the hair color
composition according to various embodiments of the disclosure
include, but are not limited to, rheology-modifying agents, bleach
activators and co-bleach activators, direct dyes, chelants, fatty
substances, ceramides, alkoxyaminosilicones, silanes, and
lift-enhancing agents, such as nitrogen-containing compounds and
metal catalyst compounds.
[0219] The composition may also contain acid and alkali pH
adjusters, which are well known in the art in the cosmetic
treatment of keratin fibers, such as hair. Such pH adjusters
include, but are not limited to, sodium metasilicate, silicate
compounds, citric acid, ascorbic acid, and carbonate compounds.
[0220] The pH adjusters may, in various embodiments, be present in
the hair color composition in an amount effective with a pH of
greater than 7.
[0221] The hair color-altering compositions of the instant
disclosure may be free or essentially free of taurate surfactants
and salts thereof. For example, the compositions may be free or
essentially free of taurate surfactants and salts thereof, of the
following formula:
R.sub.1CO--NR.sub.2--CH.sub.2CH.sub.2SO.sub.3M,
[0222] wherein R.sub.1 denotes a saturated or unsaturated
hydrocarbon group with an average number of carbon atoms of 7-19;
R.sub.2 denotes hydrogen or an alkyl group with an average number
of carbon atoms of 1-3; and M denotes an alkali metal, alkali earth
metal, ammonium, or organic amine or derivative. Specific examples
include N-methyl cocoyl taurate and sodium cocoyl taurate.
[0223] The compositions of the disclosure may be free or
essentially free of polyethylene glycol (PEG) and/or derivatives
thereof and may be free or essentially free of propylene glycol
(PPG) and/or derivatives thereof. For example, the compositions may
be free or essentially free of polyethylene glycols having a
molecular weight of 200-10,000, or polyethylene glycols having a
molecular weight of 200-1,000. Furthermore, PEGylated surfactants
may also be excluded from the hair color-altering compositions.
Non-limiting examples of PEGylated surfactants include ethoxylated
fatty esters.
Kits
[0224] Another aspect of the invention pertains to kits which
comprise any of the hair color-altering agents described herein. In
some embodiments, the kit further comprises a developer
composition. The developer composition may be housed in a separate
container from the hair color-altering composition, and may then be
mixed prior to application onto hair.
[0225] In some embodiments, the developer composition is aqueous or
is in the form of an emulsion. The developer composition can
contain at least one solvent, chosen from water, organic solvents,
and mixtures thereof.
[0226] In alternative embodiments, the developer composition is
substantially anhydrous. The term "substantially anhydrous" means
that the developer composition is either completely free of water
or contains no appreciable amount of water, for example, no more
than 5% by weight, or no more than 2% by weight, or no more than 1%
by weight, based on the weight of the developer composition. It
should be noted that this refers for example to bound water, such
as the water of crystallization of the salts or traces of water
absorbed by the raw materials used in the preparation of the
compositions according to embodiments of the disclosure.
[0227] When the developer composition is substantially anhydrous,
the developer composition may comprise at least one solvent chosen
from organic solvents. Suitable organic solvents for use in the
developer composition include ethanol, isopropyl alcohol, propanol,
benzyl alcohol, phenyl ethyl alcohol, glycols and glycol ethers,
such as propylene glycol, hexylene glycol, ethylene glycol
monomethyl, monoethyl or monobutyl ether, propylene glycol and its
ethers, such as propylene glycol monomethyl ether, butylene glycol,
dipropylene glycol, diethylene glycol alkyl ethers, such as
diethylene glycol monoethyl ether and monobutyl ether, ethylene
glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, propane
diol, glycerin, hydrocarbons such as straight chain hydrocarbons,
mineral oil, polybutene, hydrogenated polyisobutene, hydrogenated
polydecene, polydecene, squalane, petrolatum, isoparaffins, and
mixtures, thereof.
[0228] The organic solvents for use in the present invention can be
volatile or non-volatile compounds. The organic solvent may, for
example, be present in an amount ranging from about 0.5% to about
70% by weight, such as from about 2% to about 60% by weight,
preferably from about 5 to about 50% by weight, relative to the
total weight of the developer composition or system in which it is
present.
[0229] The developer composition may be in the form of a powder,
gel, liquid, foam, lotion, cream, mousse, and emulsion.
[0230] The pH of the developer composition can range from about 2
to about 12, such as from about 6 to about 11, and it may be
adjusted to the desired value using acidifying/alkalizing agents
that are well known in the art. In certain embodiments, the pH of
the developer composition is below 7. The pH of the composition
resulting from mixing together the hair color-altering composition
and the developer composition may range from about 7, 8, 9, 10 or
11 to about 8, 9, 10, 11 or 12.
[0231] According to at least one embodiment, the system and/or
compositions comprising the system and the developer composition
are free or substantially free of ammonia.
[0232] Methods
[0233] Another aspect of the invention pertains to methods of using
any of the compositions described herein. In one or more
embodiments, the method comprises applying the hair color-altering
composition to hair. The composition may be left on the hair for a
period of time sufficient to achieve the desired alteration in hair
tone. For example, the hair color composition may be left on the
hair for up to one hour, such as from about 3 minutes to about 45
minutes, from about 5 minutes to about 30 minutes, or from about 10
minutes to about 20 minutes. In further embodiments, the hair color
composition may be left on the hair for a period up to about 30
minutes, such as, for example, from about 1 to about 30 minutes,
about 1 to about 10 minutes, or about 1 to about 5 minutes. One
skilled in the art will, by considering various factors such as the
starting and desired tones of the hair, be able to determine an
appropriate amount of time to leave the hair color composition on
the hair in order to achieve the desired alternation in hair tone.
By way of non-limiting example, various embodiments according to
the disclosure may provide for an increase of 1 to 4 in the tone
height of the hair. In some embodiments, the hair color-altering
composition is mixed with a developer composition prior to
application to hair. If desired, the composition may, optionally,
be shampooed and/or rinsed off the hair.
EXAMPLES
[0234] Implementation of the present disclosure is provided by way
of the following examples. The examples serve to illustrate the
technology without being limiting in nature.
Example 1
[0235] Three formulas were prepared with the ingredients shown
below in Table 1. Comparative Example 1 is comparative for at least
the reason it does not contain citric acid. Examples 2 and 3 are
inventive. The three formulas were in the form of a cream.
TABLE-US-00004 TABLE 1 Comp. Ex. 1 Inv. Ex. 2 Inv. Ex. 3 INCI US
wt. % wt. % wt. % FATTY COMPOUND OLEYL ALCOHOL 2 2 2 NONIONIC
DECETH-3 2.7 2.7 2.7 SURFACTANT FRAGRANCE FRAGRANCE 0.75 0.75 0.75
AMINO ACID TAURINE 2.16 ANIONIC SURFACTANT OLEIC ACID 2.7 2.7 2.7
THICKENER CETYL 0.15 0.15 HYDROXYETHYLCELLULOSE ALKALIZING AGENT
AMMONIUM HYDROXIDE 8.1477 8.1477 8.1477 ALKALIZING AGENT
ETHANOLAMINE 0.63 3 3.78 CATIONIC POLYMER POLYQUATERNIUM-6 0.64
0.64 0.64 FATTY COMPOUND GLYCOL DISTEARATE 3 3 2 FATTY COMPOUND
CETEARYL ALCOHOL 16 16 3 MISC. (COLORANT, MISC. 2.27 2.27 2.27
ANTISTATIC, CHELANT, ANTIOXIDANT) SOLVENT WATER 53.7123 48.8423
59.5423 CARBOXYLIC ACID CITRIC ACID 2.5 3.31 FATTY COMPOUND MINERAL
OIL 3 3 3 THICKENER HYDROXYETHYLCELLULOSE 0.3 0.3
[0236] Thermo-rheology measurements were taken of the three
formulas, and the evolution of elastic modulus (G') measured as a
function of time and temperature. These plots are shown in FIG.
1A-B. As seen from the figures, the G' of Comparative Example 1
dropped significantly as temperature increased, although it
remained relatively stable with respect to time. Inventive Example
2 decreased somewhat with increased temperature, as well as changed
the least with respect to time. Inventive Example 3 remained fairly
constant with respect to both temperature and time. This indicates
an increase in stability in the two inventive formulas.
Example 2
TABLE-US-00005 [0237] B C D E F INCI US wt. % wt. % wt. % wt. % wt.
% Amino Acid TAURINE 0.03 0.1 0.01 0.08 0.06 Carboxylic CITRIC ACID
0.6 0.9 1.2 1.4 1.7 Acid Alkalizing AMMONIUM HYDROXIDE 5.8 5.8 5.8
5.8 5.8 Agent ETHANOLAMINE 7 7.1 7.3 7.4 7.5 SODIUM METABISULFITE
0.7 0.7 0.7 0.7 0.7 Colorants 6-HYDROXYINDOLE, TOLUENE- .ltoreq.2
.ltoreq.2 .ltoreq.2 .ltoreq.2 .ltoreq.2 2,5-DIAMINE, m-AMINOPHENOL,
p-AMINOPHENOL, 2- METHYLRESORCINOL, TITANIUM DIOXIDE, AND/OR
RESORCINOL Fatty GLYCOL DISTEARATE, 26 24.5 26 24.5 26 Compounds
CETEARYL ALCOHOL, OLEYL ALCOHOL, AND/OR HYDROGENATED VEG. OIL
Cationic POLYQUATERNIUM-6 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.4 Polymer Nonionic
LAURETH-12 AND/OR 9 6 6 9 6 Surfactant OLETH-30 Anionic OLEIC ACID
2 2 2 2 2 Surfactant Polymer HEXADIMETHRINE CHLORIDE 0.6 0.6 0.6
0.6 0.6 Thickener CETYL HYDROXYETHYL- 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 CELLULOSE
AND/OR HYDROXYETHYL-CELLULOSE Miscellaneous Preservative(s),
Fragrance, pH .ltoreq.3 .ltoreq.3 .ltoreq.3 .ltoreq.3 .ltoreq.3
adjuster(s), etc. Water WATER QS QS QS QS QS 100 100 100 100
100
[0238] Compositions B-F were prepared and their performance
compared with a commercial benchmark product. Hair tresses of
highly bleached Caucasian hair (1 g/27 cm) of approximately fifty
hair fibers were treated three times as outlined below, and then
subjected to testing using a Miniature Tensile Tester (MTT). The
commercial benchmark product and each of Compositions B-F were
mixed with 40V developer composition in a ratio of 1:2
(Benchmark/Compositions B-F: Developer Composition). 8 grams of the
commercial benchmark product or Composition B-F was mixed with 16
grams of 40V developer composition and each of the mixtures were
used to treat two hair tresses. The mixtures were applied to the
hair tresses and allowed to process for 50 minutes. After 50
minutes of processing, the hair tresses were rinsed and then
shampooed three times. After being shampooed three times, the hair
tresses were blow dried. The process was repeated two more times,
i.e., the entire hair coloring process was carried out for a total
of three times. The tresses were then subjected to break stress
testing and to elastic modulus testing.
Break Stress Testing
[0239] The break stress represents the force/area needed to break
the hair fiber. A higher break stress represents a stronger and
stiffer hair fiber. The hair tresses treated as set forth above
were subjected to break stress testing. The results are provided in
the table below, and graphically presented in FIG. 2.
TABLE-US-00006 Break Stress Composition (MPa) StdDev Count
Composition E 114.6 17.92 49 Commercial Benchmark 101.7 21.31 46
Composition B 96.48 20.25 48 Composition F 108.8 20.42 48
Composition D 106.6 22.59 43 Composition C 103.3 27.71 49
[0240] Treatment with Composition E resulted in a statistically
higher break stress compared to the commercial benchmark product.
Treatment with Compositions B, C, D, and F resulted in a break
stress that was similar to treatment with the commercial benchmark
product. There was no statistical difference in break stress for
hair tresses treated with Compositions B, C, D, and F compared to
hair tresses treated with the commercial benchmark product.
Elastic Modulus Testing (Young's Modulus)
[0241] The Young's modulus represents a measure of the hair's
spring-like structure (elasticity). The mean Young's modulus for
the hair tresses treated as set forth above was determined. The
results are provided in the table below and graphically presented
in FIG. 3.
TABLE-US-00007 Elastic Modulus Composition (MPa) Std Dev Count
Commercial Benchmark 725.1 331.4 46 Composition F 776.1 341.2 48
Composition B 833.2 267.2 48 Composition E 802.6 281.0 49
Composition D 753.0 293.7 43 Composition C 725.7 289.8 49
[0242] Treatment with Compositions B-F resulted in an elastic
modulus that was similar to treatment with the commercial benchmark
product. There was no statistical difference in elastic modulus for
hair tresses treated with Compositions B-F compared to hair tresses
treated with the commercial benchmark product.
[0243] As used herein, the terms "comprising," "having," and
"including" (or "comprise," "have," and "include") are used in
their open, non-limiting sense.
[0244] The terms "a," "an," and "the" are understood to encompass
the plural as well as the singular.
[0245] Thus, the term "a mixture thereof" also relates to "mixtures
thereof." Throughout the disclosure, the the term "a mixture
thereof" is used, following a list of elements as shown in the
following example where letters A-F represent the elements: "one or
more elements selected from the group consisting of A, B, C, D, E,
F, and a mixture thereof." The term, "a mixture thereof" does not
require that the mixture include all of A, B, C, D, E, and F
(although all of A, B, C, D, E, and F may be included). Rather, it
indicates that a mixture of any two or more of A, B, C, D, E, and F
can be included. In other words, it is equivalent to the phrase
"one or more elements selected from the group consisting of A, B,
C, D, E, F, and a mixture of any two or more of A, B, C, D, E, and
F."
[0246] Likewise, the term "a salt thereof" also relates to "salts
thereof." Thus, where the disclosure refers to "an element selected
from the group consisting of A, B, C, D, E, F, a salt thereof, and
a mixture thereof," it indicates that that one or more of A, B, C,
D, and F may be included, one or more of a salt of A, a salt of B,
a salt of C, a salt of D, a salt of E, and a salt of F may be
include, or a mixture of any two of A, B, C, D, E, F, a salt of A,
a salt of B, a salt of C, a salt of D, a salt of E, and a salt of F
may be included.
[0247] The salts, for example, the salts of the amino acids, the
amino sulfonic acids, and the non-polymeric mono, di, and/or
tricarboxylic acids, which are referred to throughout the
disclosure may include salts having a counter-ion such as an alkali
metal, alkaline earth metal, or ammonium counterion. This list of
counterions, however, is non-limiting.
[0248] The expression "one or more" means "at least one" and thus
includes individual components as well as
mixtures/combinations.
[0249] Other than in the operating examples, or where otherwise
indicated, all numbers expressing quantities of ingredients and/or
reaction conditions are to be understood as being modified in all
instances by the term "about," meaning within +/-5% of the
indicated number.
[0250] All percentages, parts and ratios herein are based upon the
total weight of the compositions of the present invention, unless
otherwise indicated.
[0251] "Keratinous substrates" as used herein, includes, but is not
limited to keratin fibers such as hair and/or scalp on the human
head.
[0252] "Conditioning" as used herein means imparting to one or more
hair fibers at least one property chosen from combability,
moisture-retentivity, luster, shine, and softness. The state of
conditioning can be evaluated by any means known in the art, such
as, for example, measuring, and comparing, the ease of combability
of the treated hair and of the untreated hair in terms of combing
work (gm-in), and consumer perception.
[0253] The term "treat" (and its grammatical variations) as used
herein refers to the application of the compositions of the present
disclosure onto the surface of keratinous substrates such as hair.
The term "treat" (and its grammatical variations) as used herein
also refers to contacting keratinous substrates such as hair with
the compositions of the present disclosure.
[0254] A "rinse-off" product refers to a composition such as a hair
color-altering composition that is rinsed and/or washed with water
either after or during the application of the composition onto the
keratinous substrate, and before drying and/or styling said
keratinous substrate. At least a portion, and typically most, of
the composition is removed from the keratinous substrate during the
rinsing and/or washing.
[0255] The term "stable" as used herein means that the composition
does not exhibit phase separation and/or crystallization for a
period of time, for example, for at least 1 day (24 hours), one
week, one month, or one year.
[0256] "Volatile", as used herein, means having a flash point of
less than about 100.degree. C.
[0257] "Non-volatile", as used herein, means having a flash point
of greater than about 100.degree. C.
[0258] As used herein, all ranges provided are meant to include
every specific range within, and combination of sub ranges between,
the given ranges. Thus, a range from 1-5, includes specifically 1,
2, 3, 4 and 5, as well as sub ranges such as 2-5, 3-5, 2-3, 2-4,
1-4, etc.
[0259] The term "substantially free" or "essentially free" as used
herein means that there is less than about 5% by weight of a
specific material added to a composition, based on the total weight
of the compositions. Nonetheless, the compositions may include less
than about 3 wt. %, less than about 2 wt. %, less than about 1 wt.
%, less than about 0.5 wt. %, less than about 0.1 wt. %, or none of
the specified material.
[0260] All ranges and values disclosed herein are inclusive and
combinable. For examples, any value or point described herein that
falls within a range described herein can serve as a minimum or
maximum value to derive a sub-range, etc.
[0261] All publications and patent applications cited in this
specification are herein incorporated by reference, and for any and
all purposes, as if each individual publication or patent
application were specifically and individually indicated to be
incorporated by reference. In the event of an inconsistency between
the present disclosure and any publications or patent application
incorporated herein by reference, the present disclosure
controls.
* * * * *