U.S. patent application number 17/280040 was filed with the patent office on 2021-10-07 for active textile tailoring.
The applicant listed for this patent is Massachusetts Institute of Technology, Ministry of Supply Inc.. Invention is credited to Gihan S. Amarasiriwardena, Carmel Marie Dunlap, Schendy G. Kernizan, Jared Smith Laucks, Lavender Rose Tessmer, Skylar J.E. Tibbits.
Application Number | 20210310162 17/280040 |
Document ID | / |
Family ID | 1000005719200 |
Filed Date | 2021-10-07 |
United States Patent
Application |
20210310162 |
Kind Code |
A1 |
Tibbits; Skylar J.E. ; et
al. |
October 7, 2021 |
Active Textile Tailoring
Abstract
Textiles formed of active and inactive materials are disclosed.
The active and inactive materials are knit together so that the
textile exhibits a predetermined shape change upon exposure to an
external stimulus, such as heat or moisture.
Inventors: |
Tibbits; Skylar J.E.;
(Boston, MA) ; Laucks; Jared Smith; (Somerville,
MA) ; Kernizan; Schendy G.; (Milton, MA) ;
Tessmer; Lavender Rose; (Cambridge, MA) ; Dunlap;
Carmel Marie; (Somerville, MA) ; Amarasiriwardena;
Gihan S.; (Somerville, MA) |
|
Applicant: |
Name |
City |
State |
Country |
Type |
Massachusetts Institute of Technology
Ministry of Supply Inc. |
Cambridge
Boston |
MA
MA |
US
US |
|
|
Family ID: |
1000005719200 |
Appl. No.: |
17/280040 |
Filed: |
October 18, 2019 |
PCT Filed: |
October 18, 2019 |
PCT NO: |
PCT/US2019/057091 |
371 Date: |
March 25, 2021 |
Related U.S. Patent Documents
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Application
Number |
Filing Date |
Patent Number |
|
|
62747615 |
Oct 18, 2018 |
|
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|
Current U.S.
Class: |
1/1 |
Current CPC
Class: |
D10B 2211/04 20130101;
D10B 2201/10 20130101; D10B 2211/02 20130101; D03D 15/567
20210101 |
International
Class: |
D03D 15/567 20060101
D03D015/567 |
Goverment Interests
GOVERNMENT SUPPORT
[0002] This invention was made with Government support under Grant
No. W15QKN-16-3-0001 awarded by the Department of Defense. The
government has certain rights in the invention.
Claims
1. A textile comprising: a) a first row region of at least one
active fiber and a second row region of at least one active fiber;
b) at least one inactive fiber stitched with the at least one
active fiber; c) at least one inactive fiber float and d) an
elongated active fiber loop across the inactive fiber float that
joins the first row region of at least one active fiber with the
second row region of at least one active fiber wherein the active
fibers are formed of a material that exhibits a greater coefficient
of thermal expansion compared to the inactive fibers or wherein the
active fibers contract relative to the inactive fibers.
2. The textile of claim 1, wherein the active fiber is a
thermoplastic that contracts upon exposure to an increase in
temperature.
3. The textile of claim 2, wherein the thermoplastic is
polyethylene (PE).
4. The textile of claim 1, wherein the inactive fiber is cotton,
polyester, rayon, TENCEL, wool, silk, or bamboo.
5. (canceled)
6. The textile of claim 1, wherein the first row region and second
row region are stitched together.
7. The textile of claim 1, wherein the stitches are jersey
stitches.
8. The textile of claim 1, wherein the at least one inactive fiber
float is from six to ten inactive fiber floats.
9. A textile comprising: a) a first region of active fiber
stitching that overlies at least one first float of an inactive
fiber; b) a second region of active fiber stitching that overlies
at least one second float of an inactive fiber; and c) an active
fiber float that overlies inactive fiber stitching and connects the
first region of active fiber stitching to the second region of
active fiber stitching, wherein the active fibers are formed of a
material that exhibits a greater coefficient of thermal expansion
compared to the inactive fibers or wherein the active fibers
contract relative to the inactive fibers.
10. The textile of claim 9, wherein the active fiber float is
diagonal.
11. The textile of claim 9, wherein the active fiber float is
vertical or horizontal.
12. The textile of claim 9, wherein the active fiber float is a set
of active fiber floats.
13. The textile of claim 9, wherein the at least one first float of
an inactive fiber is a set of inactive fiber floats, or wherein the
at least one second float of an inactive fiber is a set of inactive
fiber floats.
14. The textile of claim 9, wherein the at least one first float of
an inactive fiber is from two to six inactive fiber floats, or
wherein the at least one second float of an inactive fiber is from
two to six inactive fiber floats.
15. A textile comprising: a) stitches of at least one active fiber
with at least one inactive fiber, further comprising an active
fiber with a front stitch with inactive fibers with a front tuck,
and further comprising an active fiber with a back tuck with an
inactive fiber with a back stitch, wherein the active fibers are
formed of a material that exhibits a greater coefficient of thermal
expansion compared to the inactive fibers or wherein the active
fibers contract relative to the inactive fibers.
16. The textile of claim 15, wherein the stitches form first and
second columns, wherein the first column comprises the active fiber
with a front stitch with the inactive fibers with a front tuck, and
wherein the second column comprises the active fiber with a back
tuck with the inactive fibers with a back stitch.
17. The textile of claim 16, where in the first and second columns
alternate.
18. The textile of claim 16, wherein a plurality of first columns
are adjacent to each other, which are adjacent to a plurality of
second columns.
19. The textile of claim 15, wherein the stitching comprises a
plurality of adjacent front stitches of active fiber.
20. The textile of claim 15, wherein the stitching comprises a
plurality of adjacent back stitches of active fiber.
21. The textile of claim 1, wherein the active fibers are knit or
woven together in higher proportion with each other than with
inactive fibers at locations that change knit or weave gauge as a
function of temperature than at locations that exhibit little or no
change of knit or weave effective gauge as a function of
temperature.
22. The textile of claim 1, wherein the active fiber is confined to
a portion of the textile.
Description
RELATED APPLICATION
[0001] This application claims the benefit of U.S. Provisional
Application No. 62/747,615, filed on Oct. 18, 2018. The entire
teachings of the above application are incorporated herein by
reference.
BACKGROUND
[0003] Traditionally, garments are either produced with standard
sizes (S, M, L) or at the high-end, they are manually tailored to
fit an individual. However, manual tailoring is labor intensive,
expensive, and time consuming, which often makes it difficult for
everyday clothes, customers or businesses to realize. Further,
manual tailoring often has a limited number of techniques for
adjusting a garment--hem, tuck etc.
SUMMARY
[0004] Described herein are textiles/garments that can
self-transform to adapt to a person's body shape/fit/comfort. In
particular, described herein are method of creating active textiles
with specific fiber/yarn compositions and knit structures that
promote a single direction material transformation based on
moisture or temperature activation, inducing a physical
shape-change around the user's body.
[0005] Described are textile structures with active fibers
incorporated into the knit. One or more of the fibers is an active
material within the knit structure that has the capability to
shrink, swell, curl or otherwise self-transform based on an
activation (heat, moisture, UV light or other forms of energy). The
active fiber causes a local change in the structure of the knit
causing it to contract/shrink inwards. This contraction causes the
garment to shrink with specific force and direction, adapting to
the wearer's body. The garment can have zonal placement of active
fibers and non-active fibers as well as zonal activation to control
the location, amount and type of transformation in the garment. The
combination of active fibers and specific knit structures with
controlled activation allows for standard sized/styled garments to
be mass produced and then locally activated in the store or at
home, ultimately becoming customized in style/shape/fit/comfort
based on the wearer's body and preferences.
[0006] Described herein are textiles. In some embodiments, a
textile includes a region that has an active fiber and an inactive
fiber that are knit or woven together. In some embodiments, the
active fibers can be formed of a material that exhibits a greater
coefficient of thermal expansion compared to the inactive fibers.
In some embodiments, the active fibers contract relative to the
inactive fibers.
[0007] In some embodiments, the active fiber can be a thermoplastic
that contracts upon exposure to an increase in temperature. In some
embodiments, the thermoplastic can be polyethylene (PE). In some
embodiments, the inactive fiber can be cotton, polyester, rayon,
TENCEL, wool, silk, or bamboo.
[0008] The textile can include a first row region of at least one
active fiber and a second row region of at least one active fiber;
at least one inactive fiber stitched with the at least one active
fiber; at least one inactive fiber float; and an elongated active
fiber loop across the inactive fiber float that joins the first row
region of at least one active fiber with the second row region of
at least one active fiber. The first row region and second row
region can be stitched together. The stitches are jersey stitches,
but a variety of other stitches are suitable. The at least one
inactive fiber float can be from six to ten inactive fiber
floats.
[0009] The textile can include a first region of active fiber
stitching that overlies at least one first float of an inactive
fiber; a second region of active fiber stitching that overlies at
least one second float of an inactive fiber; and an active fiber
float that overlies inactive fiber stitching and connects the first
region of active fiber stitching to the second region of active
fiber stitching. The active fiber float can be diagonal, vertical,
horizontal, or any other angle. The active fiber float can be a set
of active fiber floats. The at least one first float of an inactive
fiber can be a set of inactive fiber floats. The at least one
second float of an inactive fiber can be a set of inactive fiber
floats. The at least one first float of an inactive fiber can be
from two to six inactive fiber floats. The at least one second
float of an inactive fiber can be from two to six inactive fiber
floats.
[0010] The textile can include stitches of at least one active
fiber with at least one inactive fiber. The can be an active fiber
with a front stitch with inactive fibers with a front tuck, along
with an active fiber with a back tuck with an inactive fiber with a
back stitch. The stitches can form first and second columns. The
first column can include the active fiber with a front stitch with
the inactive fibers with a front tuck. The second column can
include the active fiber with a back tuck with the inactive fibers
with a back stitch. The first and second columns can alternate. A
plurality of first columns can be adjacent to each other, which can
be adjacent to a plurality of second columns. The stitching can
include a plurality of adjacent front stitches of active fiber. The
stitching can include a plurality of adjacent back stitches of
active fiber.
[0011] The textile can include active fibers that are knit or woven
together in higher proportion with each other than with inactive
fibers at locations that change knit or weave gauge as a function
of temperature than at locations that exhibit little or no change
of knit or weave effective gauge as a function of temperature.
[0012] The active fiber can be confined to a portion of the textile
(e.g. confined to a portion of a garment).
BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS
[0013] The foregoing will be apparent from the following more
particular description of example embodiments, as illustrated in
the accompanying drawings in which like reference characters refer
to the same parts throughout the different views. The drawings are
not necessarily to scale, emphasis instead being placed upon
illustrating embodiments.
[0014] FIGS. 1A-C are schematics illustrating linear shape change
that may be contraction or expansion due to moisture or heat
exposure.
[0015] FIGS. 2A-B are schematics illustrating cross-sectional shape
change that may be due to material swelling/contraction due to
moisture gain/loss or thermal exposure.
[0016] FIGS. 3A-C are schematics illustrating wave and helical
response structures that may occur due to a bi-component extrusion
with different expansion rates or geometrical cross-section that
invokes a specific shape change.
[0017] FIG. 4 is a photograph showing a tessellation of a
mesh-matrix structure with a primary mesh material and a secondary
void-filler material that are combined to transforms the porosity
and curvature upon activation.
[0018] FIG. 5 is a photograph showing a tessellation of a simple
knit structure made of active and non-active material. This sample
shows control over the open/closed area in the central vertical
region through active and non-active materials.
[0019] FIG. 6 is a photograph showing the linear repetition of
active and non-active material creating an accordion effect when
activated. Active zones consist of two plated materials that
respond differently to applied moisture, producing additional
curvature of the active zones by exploiting the curling tendency of
single-jersey knit structure.
[0020] FIG. 7 is a photograph showing axial compression that can be
zonally controlled when activated.
[0021] FIG. 8 is a schematic showing robotic tailoring along a
continuous path, as well as amplitude control of the activation
energy by modulating the speed, distance and temperature of the
source.
[0022] FIG. 9 is a schematic showing robotic tailoring to create
various sizes that can be tailored to the individual by controlling
and setting shrinkage/expansion in fixed areas.
[0023] FIG. 10 is a series of images illustrating different
individuals and their body scan with a correlated garment program
that has different zones that can be activated through robotic
tailoring.
[0024] FIG. 11 is a schematic showing a knit program with various
knit structures to achieve controlled and localized shape
change.
[0025] FIG. 12 is a schematic showing a user experience in which a
user enters a retail space, is imaged, and then a custom program is
developed on-demand for the user. A garment is then knit on
location and can either be robotically activated on a form or on
the individual or in an environmental chamber for activation.
[0026] FIGS. 13A and 13B are photographs of a textile. FIG. 13A is
a photograph of the textile when the active material is not
activated. FIG. 13B is a photograph of the textile when the active
material is activated. The active material is distributed in a grid
where there are floated stitches in the inactive fiber and zero
floated stitches in the active fiber. The active fiber is knitted
in horizontal rows, where alternating sets of stitches of active
fiber are held on the needles while the inactive fiber is knitted
for a series of subsequent rows. This produces a series of
elongated stitches where the fiber is held, maximizing the
potential of the fibers to contract. When exposed to heat, the
resulting pattern produces localized shrinkage in the fabric
enabled by the large stitch sizes of the active material where the
stitches have been held during knitting. FIG. 13C is a textile
pattern for the textile of FIGS. 13A and 13B
[0027] FIGS. 14A and 14B are photographs of a textile. FIG. 14A is
a photograph of the textile when the active material is not
activated. FIG. 14B is a photograph of the textile when the active
material is activated. The active material is knitted in small
clusters of stitches that are interspersed through areas of
inactive stitches. The active clusters are linked together with
floats on the reverse side of the fabric that connect the active
areas in a diagonal grid. When heat is applied to the material, the
active floats contract to produce localized gathering in the
inactive material. Floats are used to elongate the areas of active
fiber, producing fabric contraction. FIG. 14C is a textile pattern
for the textile of FIGS. 14A and 14B.
[0028] FIGS. 15A and 15B are photographs of a textile. FIG. 15A is
a photograph of the textile when the active material is not
activated. FIG. 15B is a photograph of the textile when the active
material is activated. Active material is applied to one fabric
face, and inactive material is applied to the reverse face in a
two-material rib knit structure. When heat is applied to the active
face of the fabric, the fibers contract and reveal the color of the
inactive material; this produces a localized visual effect for the
purpose of applying customizable patterning through heat. FIG. 15C
is a textile pattern for the textile of FIGS. 15A and 15B.
DETAILED DESCRIPTION
[0029] A description of example embodiments follows.
1. Material Behavior
[0030] Shape change is created by either a thermal and/or
moisture-based response to an environmental change. The activation
includes, but is not limited to, lengthening, shrinking and axial
expansion of the fiber or filament. The active material can be a
combination of spun fibers, monofilaments, and braided or twisted
versions and combinations thereof. The composition of the yarns and
monofilaments are variations and combinations of both naturally
yarns (wool, cotton, linen and other animal hairs), as well as
naturally-derived yarns (rayon, viscose, bio-PET, bio-PTT) as well
as synthetics (including but not limited to: nylon, nylon-6,
nylon-6-6, polyethylene terephthalate (PET), polyethylene
terephthalate (PTT) and polybutylene terephthalate (PBT),
high-density polyethylene (HDPE), polyethylene (e.g., high
molecular weight polyethylene (HMWPE)). Some fibers exhibit
contraction or expansion due to moisture gain through fiber
swelling, or thermal expansion/contraction, or a combination of
both. In some cases material such as HMWPE exhibit thermal
contraction with rising temperature which can be used to activate
certain pore structures and geometries. Active fibers can also
combine temperature and moisture activations to have different
functionalities in a wet environment versus a hot environment or a
steam (hot and wet) environment.
[0031] In some applications dynamic and bi-directional shape change
is desired such as active thermal control, in others
single-direction shape change yields the ability to
programmatically control or fix a shape based on body-mapping or
comfort/fit. This single directional change can be mechanical, by
which thermal or moisture shrinking can cause "ratcheting" of
microfibrils (as in scaled animal fibers) of parallel fibers to
mechanically lock in one direction, which may be released by an
opposite mechanical force. Other materials such as synthetics may
enter a thermoplastic phase, and exposure to increased heat can
thermally set the fiber to a final state. Third,
chemical-structural change can be used in protein based yarns such
as animal fibers causing changes to primary, secondary and tertiary
protein structures with exposure to heat.
[0032] Moisture or temperature gain can cause axial and helical
expansion of fibers, particularly in the case of bi-component
fibers causing spiral yarns to increase in loft due to moisture
absorption. Similarly, active energies can cause curling/twisting
behaviors in a fiber whereby a straight element is then
curled/twisted/folded when subject to moisture or temperature.
Finally, a fiber can shrink or expand when subjected to an
activation energy.
1.1.1. Activation Energy
[0033] The activation energy can come as single or multiple input
for example, Dry Heat (-40.degree. C.-500.degree. C.), Moisture
(0-100% relative humidity (RH %) at ambient temperatures) and
combinations (Steam). While nonambient temperatures and moisture
levels may be used for single activation (outside of the realm of
human comfort), bi-directional change is ideal in the -20.degree.
C.-50.degree. C. range which encompasses normal operating
environments for the wearer as well as the body-garment
microclimate.
1.2. Non-Active Material
[0034] A diversity of non-active fibers/yarns can be juxtaposed
with active materials to gain control over zones, constrain certain
regions, or amplify effects of the transformation. To amplify the
transformation, a non-active material can be used which does not
react to heat and continues to keep its form as the active fiber
transforms. The non-active materials can consist of cotton,
polyester, rayon, TENCEL, wool, and as well as 2nd generation
synthetics, bio engineered silks, and bamboo etc.
2. Knit Structure
[0035] A myriad of knit structures can be used in combination with
active and inactive fibers/yarns. We have used a variety of
primary-knit structures that exhibit controlled shape change, and
can be used as a component knit pattern on its own or in
combination with other structures to create a macro-shape
change.
[0036] Typically, the knit structures can be characterized has
having columns, also referred to as wales in knitting and warp in
weaving, and rows, also referred to as courses in knitting and weft
in weaving.
[0037] In some instances, regions of a textile can be characterized
as having different patterns. For example, there can be row region
of an active fiber. Row regions can be jointed together (floated
together) by floats of active fibers.
[0038] In other instances, a region of a textile can have active
fiber stitches. That region can be joined to another region of the
textile that also have active fiber stitches. The two regions can
be joined by a float of the active fiber. The active fiber float
can be horizontal, vertical, diagonal, or any other angle depending
upon the desired pattern.
[0039] In some instances, the first row region and the second row
region can be interconnected together. In other words, the first
row region and second row region can be stitched together using a
single fiber.
[0040] A wide variety of stitches can be used, including jersey
stitches, combinations of front and back stitches, link-link
stitches, garter stitches, knit stitches, and pearl stitches.
2.1. Mesh-Matrix Structure
[0041] One form of knit structure used has been the "mesh-matrix"
structure which is created by various geometries of squares,
hexagons and circles that create a mesh-matrix which can be either
active or non-active fiber/yarns, wherein the voids in the shapes
are filled with the complementary yarn (non-active or active
respectively). In some cases this may be spun fibers or
monofilaments that create the mesh-matrix, and the filled voids are
created by using short/dropped rows or yarn floats. This results in
either compression of the void area where the material protrudes
orthogonal to the plane increasing material thickness, or by
stretching the void to cause the knit structure to become more
porous.
[0042] As illustrated in FIG. 13C, a first set of active fibers
110, formed of individual active fibers 111, are knit with inactive
fibers 121. One of skill in the art will appreciate that the
individual active fibers 111 can be formed of a single active fiber
111, which has been looped around in the stitching pattern.
Similar, the individual inactive fibers 121 can be formed of a
single active fiber 121. Plain stitches 130 are formed among the
active fibers 111, among the active fibers 111 and inactive fibers
121, and among the inactive fibers 121. While the stitches 130
illustrated in FIG. 13C are jersey stitches, a wide variety of
stitches are suitable. A set of horizontal floats 140 is formed of
a plurality of individual horizontal floats 141 of the inactive
fibers 121. In some cases, there is only one horizontal float 141.
Across the set of horizontal floats 140, an elongated loop (held
stitch) 150 is formed in the active fiber. As illustrated in FIG.
3C, there are two sets of active fibers 110, but more can be
included. FIG. 3C illustrates eight floats 141 of the inactive
fibers, but more or less can be included. More floats produces a
greater transformation than fewer floats.
[0043] As illustrated in FIG. 14C, a textile can include one or
more regions of active fibers that overlie (or underlie) one or
more floats 241 of inactive fibers 221. FIG. 14C illustrates seven
regions of active fibers that overlie (or underlie) one or more
floats 241 of inactive fibers 221. A first region of active fiber
stitching can overlie at least one float 241 of an inactive fiber
221. A second region of active fiber stitching can overlie at least
one float 241 of an inactive fiber 221. An active fiber float 261
that overlies stitching inactive fibers 221 can connect, or join,
the first region of active fibers to the second region of active
fibers. A first set of active fibers 210, formed of individual
active fibers 211, can be knit with inactive fibers 221. Stitches
230 are formed among the active fibers 211, among the active fibers
211 and inactive fibers 221, and among the inactive fibers 221.
While jersey stitches 230 are illustrated, other types of stitches
are suitable. A set of floats 240 is formed of a plurality of
individual floats 241 of the inactive fibers. As illustrated,
individual floats 241 are horizontal. Sets of floats 260 are formed
of a plurality of individual diagonal floats 261 of the active
fibers 211. As illustrated, the floats 261 extend diagonally, but
the can extend vertically, horizontally, or at other angles.
2.2. Two-Sided structures
[0044] One example is plating, which is achieved by using machine
knitting to create a face and back to the knit structure of two
different materials. This results in a planar shape change that
causes curling as one face expands or contracts relative to the
other face. The direction of this can be alternated to create an
undulating surface or cause a curl along the x axis due to heat and
the y-axis due to moisture.
[0045] Another example is FIG. 15C, where active fibers 311 are
stitched with inactive fibers 321. As illustrated, an active fiber
311 is stitched in an alternating pattern, by forming a back tuck
311a followed by a front stitch 311b. Inactive fibers are stitched
in an alternating pattern, by forming a front tuck 321a followed by
a back stitch 321b. The resulting textile has a column 370 of
active fibers with a front stitch 311b and inactive fibers with a
front tuck 321a. The resulting textile also has a column 380 of
active fibers with a back tuck 311a and inactive fibers with a back
stitch 321b. The two columns 370 and 380 are alternating in
sequence. The knit structure of FIG. 15C can be used to selectively
reveal an underlying layer, such as an underlying layer of another
material that can be of a different color. A wide variety of
alternatives patterns can be stitched, and the stitching need not
be in rigid patterns. In some instances, adjacent columns of
stitches can be identical; in some instances, adjacent columns of
stitches need not be identical.
2.3. Geometric Tessellation
[0046] Alternation of simple knit structures (e.g. jersey) in
active and non-active material can cause an accordion-like
structure that expands or contracts based on temperature or
moisture. Tessellation of triangles, trapezoids, rectangles and
other shapes can create a similar effect.
2.4. Combined Structures
[0047] Any combination of these structures and geometries can be
combined to create localized moisture and or thermal response in
specific regions of a garment.
3. Textile Activation
[0048] The type, amount and location of the applied activation
energy to the active textile can create different transformation
characteristics based on the pattern and amount of active material.
The textile material without the active fiber should not respond to
the heat, only the heat-active fibers will cause local
transformation based on the structure of the knit and amount of
active fibers. If the entire textile structure is created with
heat-active fibers, the entire textile or zone may transform.
However, if the heat is applied in a precise and local pattern,
then a smaller local transformation may occur. This demonstrates
that the location of the applied energy has a direct impact on the
type of transformation. Similarly, the amount of activation will
cause different transformation characteristics. For example, if
more heat is applied in a short amount of time it may speed up the
transformation, depending on the active material's characteristics.
The location and type of active material based on the supplied
activation energy allows for many different transformations with
different activations energies, at different times and should be
designed specifically for the application and environment of
use.
3.1. Robotic Activation
[0049] Robotic activation of the garment is intended to translate
or "program" a garment with a specific conformational response
based on aesthetic design, comfort/fit, functional output or
user-body mapping.
[0050] Robotic activation can be any computer-numerically
controlled process that allows the application of activation energy
(heat, moisture, light etc.) in a controlled fashion. This can
include light activation or controlled moisture or heat application
through some combination of heat/moisture source that moves
relative to the garment. This movement can be controlled using a
5-axis robotic arm and/or turntable that moves the heat/moisture
source in a defined 3D path over the garment. This can either be a
raster or vector process for translating the information map to the
garment.
3.2. Environmental/Chamber Activation
[0051] Activation can also be achieved, particularly for uniform
shape or zonal change rather than porosity change, by having the
user wear the garment in an environmental chamber with controllable
moisture or heat that is comfortable for the wearer but exceeds the
activation range. In this case either a unique geometry can be
conformed to the wearer, or body-mapping of the wear can be
translated into a knit program unique to the wearer and pre-knit
into the garment that is then finally "set" once exposed to the
activation temperature/Rh % level.
3.3. Zonal Activation & Variable Speed/Distance/Temperature
[0052] Amplitude of the activation energy can either be controlled
at the source or by varying the robotic path. Varying relative
distance and speed to the garment enables fast control of the
dynamic range of the activation energy source, as in the example of
a heat gun, the latency of heating elements to heat up or down is
much longer than the drop off in energy exposure due to (Relative
Distance){circumflex over ( )}(-2). This activation can be formed
on a molded mannequin or the user depending on the activation
energy. The knit textile can contains zones with different material
compositions or knit structures that amplify or constraint the
types of transformations. This zonal design can be created based on
the specific user or more genetically designed for different
regions of any garment.
4. Usage
[0053] The textiles allow for precise control over transformations
in a textile garment either uniformly across the garment or applied
in specific zones for variable transformation based on the user's
preferences. This method produces predictable and precise
transformations from a traditionally passive, flat, textile,
opening new opportunities for customized and autonomously tailored
garments that adapt to the wearer.
4.1 Personalized Fit & Styling
[0054] The controlled active tailoring process enables applications
for custom/personalized fit and styling and perfect tailoring. This
could be achieved with standard sized--s, m, l, xl--and then
post-activated on the body or this could be created with custom
knit structures that are activated in a uniform manner within an
environmental chamber.
[0055] Body-mapping of the individual can be translated into a
garment that has a controlled distance between the skin and the
garment to create "the perfect fit"--and gives control that is not
possible with 2-D construction techniques.
[0056] Similarly, controlled activation paths enable aesthetic
structures that give a unique look that can be personalized to the
wearer. This personalized garment can be tailored to a person's
style or aesthetic preferences as well as individualized comfort
profiles.
4.2 Bio-Mechanically Optimized Compression
[0057] Compression and shape constraint or flexibility/mobility can
be achieved by following paths that are unique to the user's
biomechanics, gait etc. This can create structures that aren't
possible due to the limitations of traditional 2-dimensional
garment construction. For example, compression tights that provide
mobility at the knee, localized to the wearers geometry, but
compression in the thigh and calf, while also providing gradual
compression to facilitate blood flow.
4.3 Body-Mapped Moisture/Heat Ventilated Garments
[0058] An application of this process may include the translation
of thermal body mapping to a personalized garment that reflects the
user's unique heat signature thereby allocating the right knit
structure in the right zone. Closed or open pores, or active and
non-active regions can be controlled based on the thermal and
moisture variability of different areas of the user's skin
surface.
5. Advantages & Improvements Over Existing Methods
[0059] This textiles offer significant advantages over traditional
methods of tailoring. Traditionally, garments are either produced
with standard sizes (S, M, L) or at the high-end, they are manually
tailored to fit an individual. However, manual tailoring is labor
intensive, expensive, and time consuming which often makes it
difficult for everyday clothes, customers or businesses to realize.
Further, manual tailoring often has a limited number of techniques
for adjusting a garment--hem, tuck etc. The garment can adapt and
transform on its own without manual tailoring, reducing the
cost/complexity/time needed to have customized garments for every
user. Similarly, the active textile garment can adapt in complex,
intricate and nuanced ways that would be difficult or impossible to
manually tailor. This allows the garment to adapt to the curvature,
size and uniqueness of everyone's individual body or comfort
preferences. By reducing the manual labor, time and skill required
to tailor textiles into complex shapes, significant efficiencies
and manufacturing opportunities can be realized.
[0060] Whereas traditional techniques use the application of a flat
2D isotropic material that must be conformed to the 3D surface of
the body, this technique creates an anisotropic material that more
closely reflects the biomechanical properties of the human body and
in particular the skin. This means that the textile material can
expand/contract with different rates and within different regions
across the garment, creating complex curvature and tailored
comfort/fit or performance unlike a traditional isotropic
textile/garment. Similarly, "3D surfacing" can be achieved by a
garment that is activated to transform to the individual without
the need for cutting & sewing, thereby maintaining the
structural integrity of the garment without the need for
uncomfortable seams.
6. Applications
[0061] Sports & Performance: Self-transformation process for
custom fit for footwear or apparel
[0062] Medical & Health: Custom shaped garments or medical
devices (sleeves, compression garments, bandages, casts or even
internal applications like stents/braids/patches).
[0063] Fashion: Custom-shape/style of the garment based on the
user's activation or the setting/environment where it is being
worn. In-store experience where the customer is able to make their
own garment--customized to their body shape/comfort level or
application (running vs. walking vs. formal wear etc).
[0064] Furniture & Interior Products: Single-direction
transformation of textiles around chair frames, or hammock-like
surfaces.
[0065] Manufacturing applications: Standard textiles are
mass-produced--then they can be activated and stretched/shrunk
around frames to create custom products
INCORPORATION BY REFERENCE; EQUIVALENTS
[0066] The teachings of all patents, published applications and
references cited herein are incorporated by reference in their
entirety.
[0067] While example embodiments have been particularly shown and
described, it will be understood by those skilled in the art that
various changes in form and details may be made therein without
departing from the scope of the embodiments encompassed by the
appended claims.
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