U.S. patent application number 17/113867 was filed with the patent office on 2021-08-19 for lightweight recyclable apparel with stretch properties.
The applicant listed for this patent is NIKE, Inc.. Invention is credited to Tai Lui, Dean Wu.
Application Number | 20210254244 17/113867 |
Document ID | / |
Family ID | 1000005265192 |
Filed Date | 2021-08-19 |
United States Patent
Application |
20210254244 |
Kind Code |
A1 |
Lui; Tai ; et al. |
August 19, 2021 |
LIGHTWEIGHT RECYCLABLE APPAREL WITH STRETCH PROPERTIES
Abstract
Aspects herein are directed to a lightweight, recyclable,
double-knit textile used to form a recyclable, apparel item having
stretch properties. The double-knit textile utilizes a combination
of yarns, including a recyclable, elastic thermoplastic
polyurethane (TPU) polymer yarn, in a knit construction where the
technical face of the textile is formed form a non-elastic yarn
such as a polyamide yarn, the technical back of the textile is
formed the non-elastic yarn and the TPU polymer yarn in a plated
relationship, and linking yarns that extend between the technical
face and the technical back include the non-elastic yarn. The knit
construction as described balances the need for opacity, optimal
stretch features, support, and durability to an apparel item formed
from the textile while still being lightweight.
Inventors: |
Lui; Tai; (Beaverton,
OR) ; Wu; Dean; (Taipei, TW) |
|
Applicant: |
Name |
City |
State |
Country |
Type |
NIKE, Inc. |
Beaverton |
OR |
US |
|
|
Family ID: |
1000005265192 |
Appl. No.: |
17/113867 |
Filed: |
December 7, 2020 |
Related U.S. Patent Documents
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Application
Number |
Filing Date |
Patent Number |
|
|
62975969 |
Feb 13, 2020 |
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Current U.S.
Class: |
1/1 |
Current CPC
Class: |
D10B 2501/06 20130101;
A41D 1/08 20130101; D02G 3/38 20130101; A41D 2500/10 20130101; D10B
2501/02 20130101; A41D 2500/50 20130101; D04B 1/04 20130101; D04B
1/246 20130101; D10B 2501/04 20130101; D04B 1/16 20130101; A41B
1/08 20130101; A41D 2600/10 20130101; A41C 3/0057 20130101 |
International
Class: |
D02G 3/38 20060101
D02G003/38; A41C 3/00 20060101 A41C003/00; A41B 1/08 20060101
A41B001/08; A41D 1/08 20060101 A41D001/08; D04B 1/04 20060101
D04B001/04; D04B 1/16 20060101 D04B001/16; D04B 1/24 20060101
D04B001/24 |
Claims
1. A double-knit textile used to form an apparel item, the
double-knit textile comprising: a technical face formed from a
polyamide yarn; a technical back formed from the polyamide yarn and
a thermoplastic polyurethane (TPU) polymer yarn in a plated
relationship; and a plurality of linking yarns that extend between
the technical face and the technical back of the double-knit
textile, the plurality of linking yarns including the polyamide
yarn.
2. The double-knit textile used to form the apparel item of claim
1, wherein the TPU polymer yarn is a monofilament yarn having a
denier from about 60 denier to about 80 denier.
3. The double-knit textile used to form the apparel item of claim
2, wherein the denier of the TPU polymer yarn is about 70
denier.
4. The double-knit textile used to form the apparel item of claim
1, wherein the polyamide yarn has a denier from about 38 denier to
about 45 denier.
5. The double-knit textile used to form the apparel item of claim
4, wherein the denier of the polyamide yarn is about 40 denier.
6. The double-knit textile used to form the apparel item of claim
4, wherein the polyamide yarn has from about 30 filaments to about
40 filaments per yarn.
7. The double-knit textile used to form the apparel item of claim
6, wherein the polyamide yarn has about 34 filaments per yarn.
8. The double-knit textile used to form the apparel item of claim
1, wherein the double-knit textile has a weight not exceeding 300
grams per square meter (gsm).
9. The double-knit textile used to form the apparel item of claim
8, wherein the weight of the double-knit textile is from about 220
gsm to about 240 gsm.
10. An apparel item for athletic wear, the apparel item comprising:
a double-knit textile used to form the apparel item, the
double-knit textile comprising: from 65% to 70% by weight of
polyamide yarn; and from 30% to 35% by weight of thermoplastic
polyurethane (TPU) polymer yarn, the double-knit textile having a
weight not exceeding 300 grams per square meter (gsm).
11. The apparel item for athletic wear of claim 10, wherein the
double-knit textile comprises a technical face formed from the
polyamide yarn and a technical back formed from the polyamide yarn
and the TPU polymer yarn in a plated relationship.
12. The apparel item for athletic wear of claim 11, wherein the
technical face does not include the TPU polymer yarn.
13. The apparel item for athletic wear of claim 11, wherein the
double-knit textile includes a plurality of linking yarns that
extend between the technical face and the technical back, the
plurality of linking yarns including the polyamide yarn.
14. The apparel item for athletic wear of claim 10, wherein the
weight of the double-knit textile is from about 220 gsm to about
240 gsm.
15. The apparel item for athletic wear of claim 10, wherein the TPU
polymer yarn is elastic, and wherein the polyamide yarn is not
elastic.
16. The apparel item for athletic wear of claim 10, wherein the
apparel item is an athletic tight.
17. The apparel item for athletic wear of claim 10, wherein the
apparel item is an athletic shirt.
18. The apparel item for athletic wear of claim 10, wherein the
apparel item is a sport bra.
19. A method of manufacturing an apparel item for athletic wear,
the method comprising: forming a double-knit textile into the
apparel item, the double-knit textile comprising: from 65% to 70%
by weight of polyamide yarn; and from 30% to 35% by weight of
thermoplastic polyurethane (TPU) polymer yarn, the double-knit
textile having a weight not exceeding 300 grams per square meter
(gsm).
20. The method of manufacturing the apparel item for athletic wear
of claim 19, wherein the double-knit textile comprises a technical
face formed from the polyamide yarn and a technical back formed
from the polyamide yarn and the TPU polymer yarn in a plated
relationship, and wherein the technical back forms an inner-facing
surface of the apparel item.
Description
CROSS-REFERENCE TO RELATED APPLICATIONS
[0001] This application, having attorney docket number
351663/190192US02 and entitled "Lightweight Recyclable Apparel with
Stretch Properties," claims the benefit of priority of U.S. Prov.
App. No. 62/975,969, filed Feb. 13, 2020, and entitled "Lightweight
Recyclable Apparel with Stretch Properties." The entirety of the
aforementioned application is incorporated by reference herein.
TECHNICAL FIELD
[0002] Aspects herein relate to a double-knit textile and apparel
items formed from the double-knit textile where the apparel item is
lightweight, recyclable, and has stretch properties suitable for
athletic wear.
BACKGROUND
[0003] Spandex yarns are traditionally used to impart stretch
properties to athletic apparel. However, spandex yarns are
generally not recyclable which impacts the ability of the apparel
item to be recycled.
SUMMARY
[0004] The following clauses represent example aspects of concepts
contemplated herein. Any one of the following clauses may be
combined in a multiple dependent manner to depend from one or more
other clauses. Further, any combination of dependent clauses
(clauses that explicitly depend from a previous clause) may be
combined while staying within the scope of aspects contemplated
herein. The following clauses are illustrative in nature and are
not limiting.
[0005] Clause 1. A double-knit textile used to form an apparel
item, the double-knit textile comprising: a technical face formed
from a polyamide yarn; a technical back formed from the polyamide
yarn and a thermoplastic polyurethane polymer yarn in a plated
relationship; and a plurality of linking yarns that extend between
the technical face and the technical back of the double-knit
textile, the plurality of linking yarns including the polyamide
yarn.
[0006] Clause 2. The double-knit textile used to form the apparel
item according to clause 1, wherein the thermoplastic polyurethane
polymer yarn is a monofilament yarn having a denier from about 60
denier to about 80 denier.
[0007] Clause 3. The double-knit textile used to form the apparel
item according to any of clauses 1 through 2, wherein the denier of
the thermoplastic polyurethane polymer yarn is about 70 denier.
[0008] Clause 4. The double-knit textile used to form the apparel
item according to any of clauses 1 through 3, wherein the polyamide
yarn has a denier from about 38 denier to about 45 denier.
[0009] Clause 5. The double-knit textile used to form the apparel
item according to any of clauses 1 through 4, wherein the denier of
the polyamide yarn is about 40 denier.
[0010] Clause 6. The double-knit textile used to form the apparel
item according to any of clauses 1 through 5, wherein the polyamide
yarn has from about 30 filaments to about 40 filaments per
yarn.
[0011] Clause 7. The double-knit textile used to form the apparel
item according to any of clauses 1 through 6, wherein the polyamide
yarn has about 34 filaments per yarn.
[0012] Clause 8. The double-knit textile used to form the apparel
item according to any of clauses 1 through 7, wherein the
double-knit textile has a weight not exceeding 300 grams per square
meter (gsm).
[0013] Clause 9. The double-knit textile used to form the apparel
item according to any of clauses 1 through 8, wherein the weight of
the double-knit textile is from about 220 gsm to about 240 gsm.
[0014] Clause 10. An apparel item for athletic wear, the apparel
item comprising: a double-knit textile used to form the apparel
item, the double-knit textile comprising: from 65% to 70% by weight
of polyamide yarn; and from 30% to 35% by weight of thermoplastic
polyurethane polymer yarn, the double-knit textile having a weight
not exceeding 300 grams per square meter (gsm).
[0015] Clause 11. The apparel item for athletic wear according to
clause 10, wherein the double-knit textile comprises a technical
face formed from the polyamide yarn and a technical back formed
from the polyamide yarn and the thermoplastic polyurethane polymer
yarn in a plated relationship.
[0016] Clause 12. The apparel item for athletic wear according to
clause 11, wherein the technical face does not include the
thermoplastic polyurethane polymer yarn.
[0017] Clause 13. The apparel item for athletic wear according to
any of clauses 11 through 12, wherein the double-knit textile
includes a plurality of linking yarns that extend between the
technical face and the technical back, the plurality of linking
yarns including the polyamide yarn.
[0018] Clause 14. The apparel item for athletic wear according to
any of clauses 10 through 13, wherein the weight of the double-knit
textile is from about 220 gsm to about 240 gsm.
[0019] Clause 15. The apparel item for athletic wear according to
any of clauses 10 through 14, wherein the thermoplastic
polyurethane polymer yarn is elastic, and wherein the polyamide
yarn is not elastic.
[0020] Clause 16. The apparel item for athletic wear according to
any of clauses 10 through 15, wherein the apparel item is an
athletic tight.
[0021] Clause 17. The apparel item for athletic wear according to
any of clauses 10 through 15, wherein the apparel item is an
athletic shirt.
[0022] Clause 18. The apparel item for athletic wear according to
any of clauses 10 through 15, wherein the apparel item is a sport
bra.
[0023] Clause 19. A method of manufacturing an apparel item for
athletic wear, the method comprising: forming a double-knit textile
into the apparel item, the double-knit textile comprising: from 65%
to 70% by weight of polyamide yarn; and from 30% to 35% by weight
of thermoplastic polyurethane polymer yarn, the double-knit textile
having a weight not exceeding 300 grams per square meter (gsm).
[0024] Clause 20. The method of manufacturing the apparel item for
athletic wear according to clause 19, wherein the double-knit
textile comprises a technical face formed from the polyamide yarn
and a technical back formed from the polyamide yarn and the
thermoplastic polyurethane polymer yarn in a plated relationship,
and wherein the technical back forms an inner-facing surface of the
apparel item.
[0025] Clause 21. A double-knit textile used to form an apparel
item, the double-knit textile comprising: a technical face; and a
technical back, wherein one of the technical face or the technical
back is formed from a polyamide yarn and a thermoplastic
polyurethane polymer yarn, and wherein the double-knit textile has
a weight not exceeding 300 grams per square meter (gsm).
[0026] Clause 22. The double-knit textile used to form the apparel
item according to clause 21, further comprising a plurality of
linking yarns that extend between the technical face and the
technical back of the double-knit textile.
[0027] Clause 23. The double-knit textile used to form the apparel
item according to any of clauses 21 through 22, wherein the
thermoplastic polyurethane polymer yarn is a monofilament yarn
having a denier from about 60 denier to about 80 denier.
[0028] Clause 24. The double-knit textile used to form the apparel
item according to any of clauses 21 through 23, wherein the denier
of the thermoplastic polyurethane polymer yarn is about 70
denier.
[0029] Clause 25. The double-knit textile used to form the apparel
item according to any of clauses 21 through 24, wherein the
polyamide yarn has a denier from about 38 denier to about 45
denier.
[0030] Clause 26. The double-knit textile used to form the apparel
item according to any of clauses 21 through 25, wherein the denier
of the polyamide yarn is about 40 denier.
[0031] Clause 27. The double-knit textile used to form the apparel
item according to any of clauses 21 through 26, wherein the
polyamide yarn has from about 30 filaments to about 40 filaments
per yarn.
[0032] Clause 28. The double-knit textile used to form the apparel
item according to any of clauses 21 through 27, wherein the
polyamide yarn has about 34 filaments per yarn.
[0033] Clause 29. The double-knit textile used to form the apparel
item according to any of clauses 21 through 28, wherein the weight
of the double-knit textile is from about 220 gsm to about 240
gsm.
[0034] Clause 30. A method of recycling an apparel item formed from
a double-knit textile comprising from 65% to 70% by weight of a
polyamide yarn and from 30% to 35% by weight of a thermoplastic
polyurethane polymer yarn, the double-knit textile having a weight
not exceeding 300 grams per square meter (gsm), the method
comprising: cutting the apparel item into a plurality of scrap
pieces; supplying one or more of the plurality of scrap pieces to
an extruder, wherein the extruder extrudes a film material formed
from the one or more of the plurality of scrap pieces; and
supplying the film material to a pelletizer to produce a plurality
of pellets.
[0035] Clause 31. The method of recycling the apparel item
according to clause 30, wherein the double-knit textile comprises a
technical face formed from the polyamide yarn; a technical back
formed from the polyamide yarn and the thermoplastic polyurethane
polymer yarn in a plated relationship; and a plurality of linking
yarns that extend between the technical face and the technical back
of the double-knit textile, the plurality of linking yarns
including the polyamide yarn.
BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS
[0036] Examples of aspects herein are described in detail below
with reference to the attached drawing figures, wherein:
[0037] FIG. 1 illustrates a schematic depiction of a knit structure
for an example double-knit textile in accordance with aspects
herein;
[0038] FIG. 2 illustrates an example lower-body apparel item formed
from the double-knit textile of FIG. 1 in accordance with aspects
herein;
[0039] FIG. 3 illustrates an example upper-body apparel item formed
from the double-knit textile of FIG. 1 in accordance with aspects
herein;
[0040] FIG. 4 illustrates an example support garment formed from
the double-knit textile of FIG. 1 in accordance with aspects
herein;
[0041] FIG. 5 illustrates a flow diagram of an example method of
manufacturing an apparel item for athletic wear in accordance with
aspects herein; and
[0042] FIG. 6 illustrates a flow diagram of an example method of
recycling an apparel item formed from the double-knit textile
described herein in accordance with aspects herein.
DETAILED DESCRIPTION
[0043] The subject matter of the present invention is described
with specificity herein to meet statutory requirements. However,
the description itself is not intended to limit the scope of this
disclosure. Rather, the inventors have contemplated that the
claimed or disclosed subject matter might also be embodied in other
ways, to include different steps or combinations of steps similar
to the ones described in this document, in conjunction with other
present or future technologies. Moreover, although the terms "step"
and/or "block" might be used herein to connote different elements
of methods employed, the terms should not be interpreted as
implying any particular order among or between various steps herein
disclosed unless and except when the order of individual steps is
explicitly stated.
[0044] Spandex yarns are traditionally used to impart stretch
properties to apparel especially athletic apparel. However, spandex
yarns are generally not recyclable which impacts the ability of the
apparel item to be recycled. Additionally, spandex yarns typically
exhibit a steep stress/strain curve meaning that there is a rapid
increase in resistance to stretch as the spandex yarn is stretched
past a certain length (e.g., past 100% of its original length).
This may make athletic apparel incorporating spandex yarns for
stretch less conforming to the body shape of a wearer. It may also
cause the apparel item to be restrictive during certain movements.
In addition, it is often desirable to form athletic apparel using a
double-knit construction to provide opacity for modesty purposes.
However, traditional double-knit textiles that exhibit stretch
properties may have a fabric weight heavier than desirable due to
the types of yarns used and the knit construction.
[0045] Aspects herein are directed to a lightweight, recyclable,
double-knit textile used to form a lightweight, recyclable apparel
item having superior stretch properties. The double-knit textile
utilizes a combination of yarns, including a recyclable, elastic
thermoplastic polyurethane (TPU) polymer yarn, in a knit
construction where the technical face of the textile is formed form
a non-elastic yarn such as a polyamide yarn, the technical back of
the textile is formed the non-elastic yarn and the TPU polymer yarn
in a plated relationship, and linking yarns that extend between the
technical face and the technical back include the non-elastic yarn.
The knit construction as described balances the need for opacity,
optimal stretch features, support, and durability in an apparel
item formed from the textile while still being lightweight (e.g.,
not exceeding 300 grams per meter squared (gsm)).
[0046] In example aspects, the elastic TPU polymer yarn may exhibit
a stress/strain curve that is less steep than, for example, the
stress/strain curve associated with typical spandex yarns. As such,
the double-knit textile may have less resistance to stretch as the
TPU polymer yarn is stretched past a certain length or width (e.g.,
past 100% of its original length or width). Stated differently,
less force may be needed to stretch the double-knit textile
described herein past a certain length or width. The result of this
is that the double-knit textile more easily conforms to the body
shape of a wearer thereby improving wearer comfort. The double-knit
textile also facilitates wearer movement through a wide range of
motion. In addition, the double-knit textile contemplated herein
exhibits a high rate of recovery after being stretched in both a
lengthwise and a widthwise direction which enhances both the
short-term and the long-term wearability of apparel items formed
from the textile.
[0047] As used herein, the term "apparel item" or "athletic apparel
item," means an apparel item configured to be worn by a wearer. In
example aspects, the apparel item may be worn while the wearer
engages in athletic activities. The apparel item may be in the form
of a lower-body apparel item, that in some aspects may be
form-fitting, such as a legging, tight, capri, short, and the like;
an upper-body apparel item, that in some aspects may be
form-fitting, such as a shirt or pullover; a support garment such
as a sport bra or sport tank, and the like. The term "outer-facing
surface" when referring to the apparel item means the surface
facing away from the body of a wearer and toward the external
environment. The term "inner-facing surface" when referring to the
apparel item means the surface facing inwardly or toward the body
of the wearer. The term "outermost-facing surface" means the
surface that is located furthest away from the body of the wearer
with respect to other layers or components of the apparel item, and
the term "innermost-facing surface" means the surface that is
located closest to the body of the wearer with respect to other
layers or components of the apparel item.
[0048] The term "double-knit textile" as used herein refers to a
knit construction formed on a knit machine with two needle beds.
Example machines may include a V-bed flat knit machine, a double
jersey circular knit machine, and the like. The double-knit textile
includes a technical face that is knit on one of the needle beds,
and a technical back that is knit on the remaining needle bed of
the knit machine. When looking at the technical face and the
technical back of the double-knit textile, both sides may look like
the technical face of a single-knit jersey and contain face loops
or weft knit loops. In example aspects, and as described herein,
linking yarns may be used to connect the technical face and the
technical back of the double-knit textile where the linking yarns
pass back and forth between the two different needle beds. The
double-knit textile may be formed on a machine where the needles in
one bed are directly opposite the needles in the other bed (known
as interlock gaiting). It is also contemplated herein that the
double-knit textile may be formed on a machine where the needles in
one bed are directly opposite spaces in the other bed (known as rib
gaiting). In one example aspect, the double-knit textile may be
formed on a 28 gauge interlock circular weft knit machine.
[0049] The term "knit course" as used herein is a predominantly
horizontal row of knitted loops (in an upright fabric as knit)
produced by adjacent needles during the same knitting cycle. The
knit course may include one or more stitch types such as a loop
stitch, a held stitch, a float stitch, a tuck stitch, a transfer
stitch, and the like as these terms are known in the art of
knitting. The term "knit stitch" as used herein refers to a knit
loop formed by a needle during a knitting cycle where the knit
stitch may be interlooped with adjacent knit stitches in example
aspects. The term "plating" as used herein means a knit
construction where a first yarn (e.g., a base yarn) and a second
yarn (e.g., a plating yarn) are knit in the same knit stitch using,
for instance, a base yarn feeder and a plating yarn feeder.
[0050] The term "polyamide yarn" as used herein refers to yarn that
includes one or more long-chain synthetic fibers or filaments with
recurring amide groups that contain carbon, oxygen, nitrogen, and
hydrogen. Nylon is a commonly used term for a polyamide yarn. The
term "thermoplastic polyurethane (TPU) polymer yarn," refers to a
yarn formed from thermoplastic polyurethane. In aspects, the yarn
may be entirely formed from thermoplastic polyurethane. In one
example aspect, the TPU polymer yarn may be X4zol.TM.-J Fiber
produced by The Lubrizol Corporation with headquarters in
Wickliffe, Ohio. TPU is known to be recyclable.
[0051] The term "elastic" as used herein when referring to yarns
such as the TPU polymer yarn, means the ability of the strained
yarn to substantially recover its original length (e.g, within
about 10% or more of its original length) within 60 seconds after
removing the stress. A non-elastic yarn may exhibit a degree of
mechanical stretch but does not substantially recover its original
length (e.g, within about 10% or more of its original length)
within 60 seconds after removing the stress.
[0052] Several different testing methods are used herein to measure
different properties of the double-knit textile. For example, when
determining the percentage by weight of the different yarn types in
the double-knit textile, AATCC 20A (2018) testing method is used.
When determining the weight of the double-knit textile in grams per
meter squared (gsm), ISO 3801, Method 5 is used. When measuring the
textile growth and textile stretch of the double-knit textile, ASTM
D2594 testing method is used, and when measuring the tension and
elongation properties of the double-knit textile, ASTM D4964
testing method is used. The term "about" as used herein means
within .+-.5% of a given value.
[0053] FIG. 1 is a schematic depiction of a knit structure of a
double-knit textile 100 as positioned on a knit machine. The
double-knit textile 100 includes a technical face 110 knit on a
first bed 103 of the knit machine and a technical back 112 knit on
a second bed 105 of the knit machine. When the double-knit textile
100 is incorporated into an apparel item, the technical face 110
forms an outer-facing surface of the apparel item, and the
technical back 112 forms an inner-facing surface of the apparel
item. Needles on the knit machine are illustrated as black circles.
Thus, the first bed 103 of the knit machine includes a first set of
needles 106, and the second bed 105 of the knit machine includes a
second set of needles 107. Although the first bed 103 and the
second bed 105 of the knit machine are shown in a rib gaiting
configuration, it is contemplated herein that the first bed 103 and
the second bed 105 may be in an interlock gaiting
configuration.
[0054] The technical face 110 of the double-knit textile 100 is
formed from a first yarn 114 (shown without shading). In example
aspects, the first yarn 114 may be knit in a plurality of knit
courses 116 (one of which is shown), where each knit course 116
includes consecutive interlooped knit stitches, such as knit stitch
118. It is also contemplated herein that the knit courses 116 may
include additional or alternative stitch types using the first yarn
114 such as a missed stitch, a float stitch, a tuck stitch, and the
like.
[0055] In example aspects, the first yarn 114 is a non-elastic
polyamide yarn having a denier from about 30 to about 50, from
about 35 to about 48, from about 38 to about 45, or about 40
denier. Selection of this denier range, and particularly the
selection of 40 denier, contributes to the lightweight nature of
the double-knit textile 100. Deniers greater than about 50 would
increase the weight of the double-knit textile 100 beyond the
desired weight, and deniers less than about 30 would decrease the
durability of the double-knit textile 100 and would fail to provide
the needed opacity for modesty. The polyamide yarn may have from
about 25 filaments to about 45 filaments per yarn, from about 30
filaments to about 40 filaments per yarn, from about 32 filaments
to about 38 filaments per yarn, or about 34 filaments per yarn.
Selection of this filament range also contributes to the
lightweight nature of the double-knit textile 100 while still
providing opacity and durability to the double-knit textile 100.
Additionally, the polyamide yarn may be draw textured to improve
the hand feel of the double-knit textile 100.
[0056] Selection of a polyamide yarn for the first yarn 114
provides a number of different advantages. For instance, polyamide
fibers/filaments have a low specific gravity (about 1.13) making
the polyamide yarn lightweight. Polyamide yarns also have a high
tensile strength and excellent resistance to abrasion making them
an ideal yarn for forming an outer-facing surface of an apparel
item fashioned from the double-knit textile 100 since the
outer-facing surface of the apparel item may be subjected to
greater amounts of abrasion as compared to the inner-facing surface
of the apparel item. It is contemplated herein that the technical
face 110 of the double-knit textile 100 may undergo to a peaching
process to improve the hand feel of the double-knit textile 100.
Because of its high tensile strength and excellent abrasion
resistance properties, the polyamide yarn is able to undergo the
peaching process without, for example, breakage of the yarn.
[0057] Additional advantages of using a polyamide yarn for the
first yarn 114 include the low moisture regain properties of
polyamide yarns (about 4.0) where moisture regain is defined as the
percentage of moisture an oven-dry fiber or filament will absorb
from the air when at standard temperature and relative humidity.
Because polyamide yarns do not absorb large amounts of water or
perspiration, they may facilitate the spreading out of perspiration
produced by the wearer on the outer-facing surface of an apparel
item formed from the double-knit textile 100 through, for example,
capillary action where it can subsequently evaporate thereby
improving wearer comfort. As will be explained further below,
polyamide yarns typically can by dyed at lower temperatures than,
for instance, polyethylene terephthalate (PET) yarns (commonly
known as polyester yarns). This may be advantageous when the
polyamide yarn is combined with the TPU polymer yarn since
prolonged exposure of some types of TPU polymer yarns to higher
temperatures during the dyeing process may negatively impact the
elastic properties of these TPU polymer yarns. A further advantage
is that polyamide yarns are recyclable.
[0058] It is alternatively contemplated herein that the first yarn
114 may include a PET yarn when dyeing temperatures are not a
concern for the TPU polymer yarn. PET yarns share similar features
to polyamide yarns including recyclability, a low moisture regain
(about 0.4), high tensile strength, lightweight (e.g., a specific
gravity of about 1.4), and excellent resistance to abrasion.
[0059] The technical back 112 of the double-knit textile 100 is
formed from the first yarn 114 and a second yarn 120 (shown with
stipple shading) that are knit in a plated relationship. In example
aspects, the first yarn 114 and the second yarn 120 may be knit in
a plurality of knit courses 122 (one of which is shown), where each
knit course 122 includes consecutive interlooped knit stitches,
such as knit stitch 124. It is also contemplated herein that the
knit courses 122 may include additional or alternative stitch types
using the first yarn 114 and the second yarn 120 such as a missed
stitch, a float stitch, a tuck stitch, and the like.
[0060] In example aspects, the second yarn 120 is an elastic TPU
polymer yarn such as X4zol.TM.-J Fiber described above. In example
aspects, the TPU polymer yarn is a monofilament yarn having a
denier from about 60 to about 80, from about 65 to about 75, from
about 68 to about 72, or about 70 denier. Selection of this denier
range, and particularly the selection of 70 denier, imparts density
to the double-knit textile 100 which is important for modesty while
still maintaining the lightweight features of the double-knit
textile 100. For example, selection of a denier greater than about
80 would increase the weight of the double-knit textile 100 beyond
the desired weight and selection of a denier less than about 60
would decrease the density of the double-knit textile 100. In
addition, selection of a denier from about 60 to about 80 provides
the double-knit textile 100 with the desired stretch properties.
Using a denier lower than about 60 would impact, for instance, the
desired recovery properties of the double-knit textile 100.
[0061] Besides being recyclable as opposed to spandex, the TPU
polymer yarn and specifically X4zol.TM.-J Fiber exhibits a
stress/strain curve that is less steep than, for example, spandex
meaning that there is less resistance to stretch when the TPU
polymer yarn is stretched past a certain length such as, for
example, from about 100% to about 200% of its original length. This
translates to a more comfortable, body-conforming fit when the
double-knit textile 100 is incorporated into an apparel item and
also facilitates movement of the apparel item through a wide range
of motion. Positioning the second yarn 120 so that it is present
just on the technical back 112 of the double-knit textile 100 and
not on the technical face 110 of the double-knit textile 100
provides the needed amount of stretch properties to the double-knit
textile while maintaining the lightweight features of the
double-knit textile 100. For instance, if the elastic second yarn
120 was knit in on both the technical face 110 and the technical
back 112, the double-knit textile 100 would exceed the desired
weight and would exhibit too much stretch making an apparel item
incorporating the double-knit textile 100 difficult to don and doff
and decreasing the level of support offered by the apparel item.
Moreover, due to the low moisture regain of the TPU polymer yarn
(about 1.3), positioning the TPU polymer yarn on the technical back
112 in combination with the polyamide yarn promotes the movement of
moisture (by, for instance, capillary action) through the
double-knit textile from the technical back 112 to the technical
face 110 where it may evaporate thereby improving wearer
comfort.
[0062] Plating the second yarn 120 with the first yarn 114 provides
a number of different advantages. For example, plating the second
yarn 120 with the first yarn 114 instead of knitting in the second
yarn 120 as a separate course provides a needed opacity to the
double-knit textile 100. Stated differently, if the second yarn 120
was knit in as a separate course, the double-knit textile would be
too sheer for modesty purposes. Plating the second yarn 120 with
the first yarn 114 also helps to protect the second yarn 120 by
minimizing exposure of the second yarn 120 on the technical back
112 of the double-knit textile 100 as shown in FIG. 1. For
instance, due to the plating process, the second yarn 120 is
generally positioned under the first yarn 114 (i.e., the polyamide
yarn) in the double-knit textile 100 which minimizes exposure of
the second yarn 120 on the technical back 112. Stated differently,
the polyamide yarn is the primary yarn exposed on the technical
back 112 of the double-knit textile. This may be important because
in example aspects, some TPU polymer yarns may have a tensile
strength lower (and sometime substantially lower) than the tensile
strength of the polyamide yarn which may make them prone to
breakage when exposed to abrading mechanical forces. Thus,
positioning the TPU polymer yarn under the polyamide yarn with its
excellent abrasion resistance properties, protects the TPU polymer
yarn from breakage and prolongs the usability of an apparel item
incorporating the double-knit textile 100. In line with this,
positioning the TPU polymer yarn so it is present just on the
technical back 112 of the double-knit textile 100 prevents exposure
of the TPU polymer yarn on the technical face 110 of the
double-knit textile 100 which is typically subject to higher
amounts of abrasion including abrasion that may occur during the
peaching process.
[0063] The double-knit textile 100 further includes linking yarns
126 that extend between the technical face 110 and the technical
back 112 of the double-knit textile 100. The linking yarns 126
comprise the first yarn 114 as it extends between the technical
face 110 and the technical back 112. Stated differently, in example
aspects, the first yarn 114 may form a knit stitch, such as the
knit stitch 118, on the first bed 103, then transitions to the
second bed 105 where it forms a knit stitch, such as the knit
stitch 124, on the technical back 112 before transitioning back to
the first bed 103 to form a knit stitch, and so on. Use of a
polyamide yarn as the linking yarn 126 provides the double-knit
textile 100 with needed stability and durability due to the high
tensile strength of the polyamide yarn. As well, use of the linking
yarns 126 helps to obscure the spaces between adjacent knit
stitches on the technical face 110 and the technical back 112 of
the double-knit textile 100 which contributes to the overall
opacity of the double-knit textile 100.
[0064] Considering the double-knit textile 100 as a whole, the
selection of the polyamide yarn for the first yarn 114 and the TPU
polymer yarn, specifically X4zol.TM.-J Fiber, for the second yarn
120 along with the knit construction as described provides
functional benefits to the double-knit textile 100 compared to, for
example, double-knit textiles that utilize spandex yarns for
stretch properties. For example, use of the yarns as described
makes the double-knit textile 100 fully recyclable. The TPU polymer
yarn can be re-purposed into a number of different products that
can be fed back into the apparel manufacturing process including
TPU trim pieces. In addition, use of the polyamide yarn and the TPU
polymer yarn, specifically X4zol.TM.-J Fiber, allows the
double-knit textile 100 to be dyed at a lower temperature. For
example, polyamide yarns can typically be dyed at temperatures
between 70 degrees Celsius to about 110 degrees Celsius while PET
yarns are typically dyed at temperatures between 105 degrees
Celsius and 140 degrees Celsius. The maximum recommended dyeing
temperature for X4zol.TM.-J Fiber is about 115 degrees Celsius, and
dyeing X4zol.TM.-J Fiber at temperatures higher than this may
impact the structural integrity and elastic properties of
X4zol.TM.-J Fiber. Thus, combining X4zol.TM.-J Fiber with polyamide
yarns enables the double-knit textile 100 to effectively take up
dyes at lower temperatures.
[0065] In another example, configuring the knit construction where
the polyamide yarn forms the technical face 110 of the double-knit
textile 100 and the polyamide yarn and the TPU polymer yarn are
knit in a plated relationship to form the technical back 112 of the
double-knit textile 100 provides an optimal percentage by weight of
the first yarn 114 and the second yarn 120 as compared to if the
TPU polymer yarn was knit in on both the technical face 110 and the
technical back 112. For instance, in example aspects, the
double-knit textile 100 may have from about 65% to about 70% by
weight of polyamide yarn, from about 66% to about 68% by weight of
the polyamide yarn, or about 67% by weight of the polyamide yarn.
The double-knit textile 100 may have from about 30% to about 35% by
weight of the TPU polymer yarn, from about 32% to about 34% by
weight of the TPU polymer yarn, or about 33% by weight of the TPU
polymer yarn.
[0066] The described weight percentages of the polyamide yarn and
the TPU polymer yarn causes the double-knit textile 100 to have a
weight not exceeding 300 gsm. More particularly, the double-knit
textile 100 may have a weight from about 220 gsm to about 240 gsm,
from about 225 gsm to about 235 gsm, or about 230 gsm. The
lightweight features of the double-knit textile 100 make it ideal
for use in athletic apparel items where less weight often
translates to better performance and improved wearer comfort. In
addition, the described weight percentages of the polyamide yarn
and the TPU polymer yarn provide the desired stretch and support
properties to the double-knit textile where the stretch properties
are provided by the elastic TPU polymer yarn and the support
properties are provided by the non-elastic polyamide yarn. For
example, if the percentage of the TPU polymer yarn exceeds about
35%, the double-knit textile 100 may exhibit too much stretch and
not enough support. If the percentage of the TPU polymer yarn is
below about 30%, the double-knit textile 100 may not possess the
desired stretch properties. Further, the described weight
percentage of the polyamide yarn contributes to the overall
durability/stability of the double-knit textile 100 due to the high
tensile strength and excellent abrasion resistance properties of
polyamide yarns.
[0067] Use of the TPU polymer yarn, specifically X4zol.TM.-J Fiber
with its low stress/strain curve provides the double-knit textile
100, and articles of apparel incorporating the same, with optimal
stretch properties important for comfortable wear, especially
during athletic activities. For example, when measuring the fabric
stretch and fabric growth using ASTM D2594 testing method, the
double-knit textile 100 exhibits the following properties:
TABLE-US-00001 ASTM D2594 - Stretch/Growth Test Double-Knit Textile
Length growth (60 seconds) 2% Length growth (1 hours) 2% Width
growth (60 seconds) 4% Width growth (1 hour) 2%
[0068] Width is measured in the course-wise direction of the
double-knit textile 100, and length is measured in the wale-wise
direction of the double-knit textile 100. As shown, the double-knit
textile 100 recovers to within 2% of its original length and 4% of
its original width within 60 seconds which contributes to the short
term and long term wearability of apparel items formed from the
double-knit textile 100.
[0069] When measuring tension and elongation properties of the
double-knit textile 100 using ASTM D4964 testing method, the
double-knit textile 100 exhibits the following properties:
TABLE-US-00002 Length Stretch 134.3% Loop and 15 lbs Weight Width
Stretch 245.0% Loop and 15 lbs Weight Length Loop Tension Loop
Tension at 20% Elongation 0.52 lbs Loop Tension at 30% Elongation
0.94 lbs Loop Tension at 40% Elongation 1.35 lbs Loop Tension at
60% Elongation 2.21 lbs Width Loop Tension Loop Tension at 20%
Elongation 0.25 lbs Loop Tension at 30% Elongation 0.68 lbs Loop
Tension at 40% Elongation 1.04 lbs Loop Tension at 60% Elongation
1.67 lbs
[0070] The combination of the high degree of stretch in the length
and width direction (134.4% and 245% respectively) with the low
modulus value at, for instance, 40% elongation in at least the
width direction (1.04 lbs) produces the sensation of "infinite
stretch" or the ability to stretch with minimal force. When the
double-knit textile 100 is incorporated into an apparel item, this
combination enhances the comfort and wearability of the apparel
item, facilitates the donning of the apparel item, and makes the
apparel item particularly suitable for athletic wear which often
requires the wearer to extend, flex, rotate, and the like through a
wide range of motion.
[0071] The double-knit textile 100 described herein may be
incorporated into a number of different apparel items including
apparel items suitable for athletic wear. For example, FIG. 2
depicts a front view of a lower-body apparel item 200 formed from
the double-knit textile 100. The lower-body apparel item 200 is
shown in the form of a tight but it is contemplated herein that the
lower-body apparel item 200 may be in the form of a short, a pant,
a three-quarter tight, and the like. Further, although shown as
form-fitting, it is contemplated herein that the lower-body apparel
item 200 may have a looser fit.
[0072] The lower-body apparel item 200 includes a torso portion 210
defining a waist opening 211, a first leg portion 212 having a
first leg opening 213, and a second leg portion 214 having a second
leg opening 215. It is contemplated herein that the lower-body
apparel item 200 may be entirely formed from the double-knit
textile 100. Alternatively, one or more portions of the lower-body
apparel item 200 may be formed of other materials including other
types of knit constructions that utilize the same or different yarn
types, woven materials, non-woven materials and the like. In this
example, the double-knit textile 100 may be incorporated into the
lower-body apparel item 200 in locations where stretch and support
is desired.
[0073] The double-knit textile 100 described herein may also be
incorporated into an upper-body apparel item 300 as shown in FIG.
3. The upper-body apparel item 300 is shown in the form of a shirt
with sleeves but it is contemplated herein that the upper-body
apparel item 300 may be in the form of a sleeveless shirt, a
pullover, a jacket, and the like. Further, although shown as
loose-fitting, it is contemplated herein that the upper-body
apparel item 300 may be form fitting.
[0074] The upper-body apparel item 300 includes a torso portion 310
defining a waist opening 311 and a neck opening 313, a first arm
portion 312 and a second arm portion 314. It is contemplated herein
that the upper-body apparel item 300 may be entirely formed from
the double-knit textile 100. Alternatively, one or more portions of
the upper-body apparel item 300 may be formed of other materials
including other types of knit constructions that utilize the same
or different yarn types, woven materials, non-woven materials and
the like. In this example, the double-knit textile 100 may be
incorporated into the upper-body apparel item 300 in locations
where stretch and support is desired.
[0075] The double-knit textile 100 may also be used in a support
garment 400 as shown in FIG. 4. The support garment 400 is shown in
the form of a sport bra with shoulder straps but it is contemplated
herein that the support garment 400 may be in the form of a
bandeau, a sport bra with a halter-style strap, a tank top, a crop
top, a swimsuit top, and the like. The support garment 400 includes
a first breast contacting surface 410 and a second breast
contacting surface 412 where each of the first and second breast
contacting surfaces 410 and 412 are configured to substantially
cover a respective right and left breast of a wearer. The support
garment 400 also includes shoulder straps 414 configured to extend
over the shoulder regions of a wearer, and an underband 416
configured to encircle the torso portion of a wearer. It is
contemplated herein that the support garment 400 may be entirely
formed from the double-knit textile 100. Alternatively, one or more
portions of the support garment 400 may be formed of other
materials including other types of knit constructions that utilize
the same or different yarn types, woven materials, non-woven
materials and the like. In this example, the double-knit textile
100 may be incorporated into the support garment 400 in locations
where stretch and support is desired such as, for example, the
first and second breast contacting surfaces 410 and 412.
[0076] FIG. 5 is a flow diagram of an example method 500 of
manufacturing an apparel item for athletic wear. At a step 510 a
double-knit textile, such as the double-knit textile 100, is formed
into an apparel item such as the lower-body apparel item 200, the
upper-body apparel item, the support garment 400, and the like. In
example aspects, the double-knit textile comprises from 65% to 70%
by weight of a polyamide yarn such as the first yarn 114, and from
30% to 35% by weight of a TPU polymer yarn such as, for example,
X4-zol.TM.-J Fiber. The weight percentages of the polyamide yarn
and the TPU polymer yarn cause the double-knit textile to have a
weight not exceeding 300 gsm. In example aspects, and as described
for the double-knit textile 100, the double-knit textile includes a
technical face formed from the polyamide yarn and a technical back
formed from the polyamide yarn and the TPU polymer yarn in a plated
relationship. When the double-knit textile is formed into the
apparel item, the technical back of the double-knit textile forms
an inner-facing surface of the apparel item and the technical face
forms an outer-facing surface of the apparel item. In example
aspects, the technical face of the double-knit textile may form an
outermost-facing surface of the apparel item, and the technical
back of the double-knit textile may form an innermost-facing
surface of the apparel item.
[0077] FIG. 6 is a flow diagram of an example method 600 of
recycling an apparel item formed from the double-knit textile
described herein. As such, the double-knit textile comprises from
65% to 70% by weight of a polyamide yarn and from 30% to 35% by
weight of a thermoplastic polyurethane (TPU) polymer yarn and has a
weight not exceeding 300 grams per square meter (gsm). Further, the
double-knit textile has a technical face formed from the polyamide
yarn, a technical back formed from the polyamide yarn and the TPU
polymer yarn in a plated relationship; and a plurality of linking
yarns that extend between the technical face and the technical back
of the double-knit textile, where the plurality of linking yarns
include the polyamide yarn. At a step 610, the apparel item is cut
into a plurality of scrap pieces. Although the term "cut" is used,
it is contemplated herein that any number of processes may be used
to form the scrap pieces including tearing, ultrasonic cutting,
water jet cutting, mechanical cutting, laser cutting, and the like.
At a step 612, one or more of the scrap pieces are supplied to an
extruder. In example aspects, the extruder heats the scrap pieces
to a temperature at or above a melting point of the polyamide yarns
and the TPU polymer yarns. The extruder then extrudes a film
material that includes about 65% to 70% of polyamide material and
about 30% to 35% of TPU polymer material. At a step 614, the film
material is supplied to a pelletizer that produces a plurality of
pellets that include about 65% to 70% of polyamide material and
about 30% to 35% of TPU polymer material. The pellets may
subsequently be used to form a variety of products including, for
example, trim pieces, eyewear, and the like.
[0078] Aspects of the present disclosure have been described with
the intent to be illustrative rather than restrictive. Alternative
aspects will become apparent to those skilled in the art that do
not depart from its scope. A skilled artisan may develop
alternative means of implementing the aforementioned improvements
without departing from the scope of the present disclosure.
[0079] It will be understood that certain features and
subcombinations are of utility and may be employed without
reference to other features and subcombinations and are
contemplated within the scope of the claims. Not all steps listed
in the various figures need be carried out in the specific order
described.
* * * * *