U.S. patent application number 16/964525 was filed with the patent office on 2021-02-04 for processes and installations for dyeing synthetic fibers and dyed fibers and fabrics containing said dyed fibers.
This patent application is currently assigned to CALIK DENIM TEKSTIL SAN. VE TIC. A.S.. The applicant listed for this patent is CALIK DENIM TEKSTIL SAN. VE TIC. A.S.. Invention is credited to Derya Aslan, Munevver Ertek avci, Ayse Genc, Ahmet Serhat Karaduman, Fatma MUZEYYEN Parladi, Hamit Yenici.
Application Number | 20210032805 16/964525 |
Document ID | / |
Family ID | 1000005198345 |
Filed Date | 2021-02-04 |
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United States Patent
Application |
20210032805 |
Kind Code |
A1 |
Karaduman; Ahmet Serhat ; et
al. |
February 4, 2021 |
PROCESSES AND INSTALLATIONS FOR DYEING SYNTHETIC FIBERS AND DYED
FIBERS AND FABRICS CONTAINING SAID DYED FIBERS
Abstract
A method for dyeing, such as vat dyeing, or coating synthetic
fibers, such as polyester fibers and/or polyamide fibers, or yarns
or fabrics including these fibers can include providing a powdered
dye or a powdered precursor dye (powdered leuko dye), or providing
an aqueous dye formulation or an aqueous precursor dye formulation
(an alkaline aqueous leuko dye formulation). An aqueous system
including a lipase enzyme can be provided. The fibers/yarn/fabric
can be pretreated with the aqueous system, and the pretreated
fibers/yarn/fabric can be coated or dyed with the powdered dye or
powdered precursor dye, or with the aqueous dye formulation or
aqueous precursor dye formulation.
Inventors: |
Karaduman; Ahmet Serhat;
(Yesilyurt/Malatya, TR) ; Genc; Ayse;
(Yesilyurt/Malatya, TR) ; Aslan; Derya;
(Yesilyurt/Malatya, TR) ; Parladi; Fatma MUZEYYEN;
(Bostanbasi-Yesilyurt/Malatya, TR) ; Yenici; Hamit;
(Cekmekoy/Istanbul, TR) ; Ertek avci; Munevver;
(Yesilyurt/Malatya, TR) |
|
Applicant: |
Name |
City |
State |
Country |
Type |
CALIK DENIM TEKSTIL SAN. VE TIC. A.S. |
Istanbul |
|
TR |
|
|
Assignee: |
CALIK DENIM TEKSTIL SAN. VE TIC.
A.S.
Istanbul
FR
|
Family ID: |
1000005198345 |
Appl. No.: |
16/964525 |
Filed: |
January 23, 2018 |
PCT Filed: |
January 23, 2018 |
PCT NO: |
PCT/EP2018/051594 |
371 Date: |
July 23, 2020 |
Current U.S.
Class: |
1/1 |
Current CPC
Class: |
D06N 3/0065 20130101;
D06P 5/2072 20130101; D06P 1/0004 20130101; D06P 1/227 20130101;
D06P 1/5278 20130101; D06M 16/003 20130101; D06P 1/54 20130101;
D06P 1/5285 20130101; D06P 5/137 20130101; D06N 2211/10 20130101;
D06N 3/0034 20130101; D06N 3/0036 20130101; D06P 1/24 20130101;
D06N 2209/0807 20130101; D06P 5/22 20130101; D06P 1/228
20130101 |
International
Class: |
D06M 16/00 20060101
D06M016/00; D06N 3/00 20060101 D06N003/00; D06P 1/22 20060101
D06P001/22; D06P 1/24 20060101 D06P001/24; D06P 1/00 20060101
D06P001/00; D06P 1/52 20060101 D06P001/52; D06P 1/54 20060101
D06P001/54; D06P 5/13 20060101 D06P005/13; D06P 5/20 20060101
D06P005/20; D06P 5/22 20060101 D06P005/22 |
Claims
1-95. (canceled)
96. A method for dyeing or coating synthetic fibers, yarns
including synthetic fibers, or fabrics including synthetic fibers,
the method comprising: a) providing: a multitude of fibers
including synthetic fibers, at least one yarn including the
synthetic fibers, or at least one fabric including the synthetic
fibers, or at least one yarn including the synthetic fibers; and
b1) providing at least one powdered dye or a powdered precursor
dye, or providing at least one aqueous dye formulation or at least
one aqueous precursor dye formulation, c1) providing an aqueous
system comprising at least one lipase enzyme, d1) pretreating said
multitude of fibers, said yarn, or said fabric with the aqueous
system comprising the at least one lipase enzyme, e2) coating or
dyeing said pretreated multitude of fibers, said pretreated yarn,
or said pretreated fabric with: said at least one powdered dye,
said powdered precursor dye, said at least one aqueous dye
formulation, or said at least one aqueous precursor dye
formulation; or b2) providing the at least one powdered dye or the
powdered precursor dye, or providing the at least one aqueous dye
formulation or the at least one aqueous precursor dye formulation,
c2) providing an aqueous system comprising nano-sized polyurethane
particles, at least one cross-linking agent, and at least one
wetting agent, d2) pretreating said multitude of fibers, said yarn,
or said fabric with said aqueous system comprising said nano-sized
polyurethane particles, at least one cross-linking agent, and at
least one wetting agent and e2) coating or dyeing said pretreated
multitude of fibers, said pretreated yarn, or said pretreated
fabric with: said at least one powdered dye, said powdered
precursor dye, said at least one aqueous dye formulation, or said
at least one aqueous precursor dye formulation; or b3) providing
the at least one powdered dye, the powdered precursor dye, or
providing the at least one aqueous dye formulation or the at least
one aqueous precursor dye formulation, in c3) providing an aqueous
system comprising at least one base and optionally at least one
wetting agent, and d3) pretreating said multitude of fibers, said
yarn, or said fabric with said aqueous system comprising the at
least one base and optionally the at least one wetting agent, and
e3) coating or dyeing said pretreated multitude of fibers, said
pretreated yarn, or said pretreated fabric with: said at least one
powdered dye, said powdered precursor dye, said at least one
aqueous dye formulation, or said at least one aqueous precursor dye
formulation.
97. The method according to claim 96, wherein: the dye is a vat dye
selected from the group consisting of indigo, indigoid dyes,
isoindigo, indirubin, 6,6'-dibromoindigo, Tyrian purple, indanthren
dyes, anthrachinon dyes, anthraquinone dyes, naphthalene dyes, and
mixtures thereof; or the precursor dye is a leuko dye selected from
the group consisting of leuko-indigo, leuko-indigoid dyes,
leuko-isoindigo, leuko-indirubin, leuko-6,6'-dibromoindigo,
leuko-Tyrian purple, leuko-indanthren dyes, leuko-anthrachinon
dyes, leuko-anthraquinone dyes, leuko-naphthalene dyes, and
mixtures thereof.
98. The method according to claim 96, wherein the leuko dye is
obtained from a corresponding vat dye by treatment in an aqueous
alkaline system with a reducing agent, selected from the group
consisting of thiourea dioxide, sodium dithionite, sodium hydrogen
sulphite, hydroxyacetone, sodium hydroxymethylsulfinate,
borohydride and mixtures thereof, and wherein the aqueous alkaline
system containing the leuko dye is the least one aqueous precursor
dye formulation.
99. The method according to claim 96, further comprising: treating
the coated or dyed multitude of fibers, yarn, or fabric of step
e1), e2) or e3), respectively, with at least one oxidizing agent
selected from the group consisting of oxygen, air, heated air,
inorganic peroxo compounds, hydrogen peroxide, potassium
dichromate, sodium hypochlorite, peracetic acid, and mixtures
thereof.
100. The method according to claim 96, wherein dyeing of said
pretreated fibers, yarn, or fabric with said aqueous dye
formulation or with said at least one aqueous precursor dye
formulation is conducted according to a pad-batch method.
101. The method according to claim 96, wherein in step d1) the
pretreatment with the at least one lipase enzyme is conducted
according to a pad-batch method at a temperature in the range from
25 to 60.degree. C., and also at a pH in the range from 4.5 to
9.
102. The method according to claim 96, wherein in step e1), e2) or
e3) the dye used for dyeing or coating is a powdered leuko dye, an
alkaline aqueous leuko dye formulation, or an alkaline aqueous
leuko-indigo dye formulation.
103. The method according to claim 96, wherein step b1), b2) or b3)
comprises: providing at least one powdered leuko dye, a powdered
leuko-indigo dye, or at least one aqueous leuko dye formulation, at
least one alkaline aqueous leuko-indigo dye formulation, and
providing at least one migration inhibitor, at least one dispersing
agent, at least one wetting agent, and at least one cationic
polymer or at least one cationic polymer based on
polyamide-epichlorohydrin resin, and wherein said multitude of
fibers, yarn, or fabric is dyed with said powdered leuko dye or
said aqueous leuko dye formulation according to b1), b2) or
b3).
104. The method according to claim 96, wherein step b1), b2) or b3)
comprises: providing at least one powdered leuko dye, a powdered
leuko-indigo dye, at least one aqueous leuko dye formulation, or
alkaline aqueous leuko-indigo dye formulation, and providing at
least one migration inhibitor, at least one dispersing agent, at
least one wetting agent and at least one cationic polymer or at
least one cationic polymer based on polyamide-epichlorohydrin
resin, and wherein said multitude of fibers, yarn, or fabric is
coated with said powdered leuko dye or said aqueous leuko dye
formulation according to b1), b2) or b3).
105. The method according to claim 96, wherein the aqueous dye
formulation comprises an indigo dye, at least one base, at least
one wetting agent, and optionally at least one carrier agent.
106. The method according to claim 96, wherein in step a) a mixture
of the multitude of synthetic fibers and cotton fibers are provided
and/or at least one yarn or at least one fabric including the
synthetic fibers and the cotton fibers is provided.
107. The method according to claim 96, wherein: a fabric prepared
from the synthetic fibers or from yarn including the synthetic
fibers is subjected to pretreatment step d1), d2) or d3), and the
pretreated fabric is coated according to step e1), e2) or e3),
respectively; the synthetic fibers or a yarn including the
synthetic fibers are subjected to pretreatment step d1), d2) or
d3), said fibers, yarn formed into the fabric, and said fabric is
coated or dyed according to step e1), e2) or e3), respectively; the
synthetic fibers or yarn including the synthetic fibers are
subjected to pretreatment step d1), d2) or d3), said fibers or yarn
are dyed according to step e1), e2) or e3), respectively; the
synthetic fibers or yarn including the synthetic fibers are
subjected to pretreatment step d1), d2) or d3), said fibers or yarn
are dyed according to step e1), e2) or e3), respectively, said
fibers or yarn are formed into the fabric, and said fabric is
coated or dyed according to step e1), e2) or e3), respectively; the
synthetic fibers or yarn including the synthetic fibers are
subjected to pretreatment step d1), d2) or d3), said fibers or yarn
are formed into the fabric, said fabric is subjected to
pretreatment step d1), d2) or d3), and said fabric is coated or
dyed according to step e1), e2) or e3), respectively; or the
synthetic fibers or yarn including the synthetic fibers are
subjected to pretreatment step d1), d2) or d3), said fibers or yarn
are dyed according to step e1), e2) or e3), respectively, and are
formed into the fabric, said fabric is subjected to pretreatment
step d1), d2) or d3), and said fabric is coated or dyed, according
to step e1), e2) or e3), respectively.
108. Dyed synthetic fibers, dyed yarn, or dyed fabric obtained or
obtainable according to the method according to claim 96.
109. Coated synthetic fibers, coated yarn, or coated fabric
obtained or obtainable according to the method according to claim
96.
110. An installation for dyeing or coating synthetic fibers, yarn
including the synthetic fibers, or fabric including the synthetic
fibers or the yarn, according to claim 96 comprising: x) a coloring
station including a coating station or a dyeing station, configured
to apply a dye formulation comprising at least one powdered dye, a
powdered precursor dye, a powdered leuko-dye, and/or at least one
aqueous dye formulation, at least one aqueous precursor dye
formulation, or an alkaline aqueous leuko-dye formulation, to said
fibers, yarn, or fabric being conveyed through said coloring
station, and w) a drying station configured to convey said fibers,
yarn, or fabric through the drying station to dry said fibers,
yarn, or fabric before said fibers, yarn, or fabric enter the
coloring station such that said dye formulation is applied to dried
fibers, a dried yarn, or a dried fabric within the coloring
station.
111. The installation according to claim 110, further comprising a
pretreating station configured to pretreat said fibers, yarn, or
fabric with one of the aqueous solutions c1), c2), or c3) by one of
the pretreating steps d1), d2) or d3), before the fibers, yarn, or
fabric is conveyed in series through said drying station and said
coloring station.
112. An installation for dyeing synthetic fibers, yarn including
the synthetic fibers, or a fabric including the synthetic fibers or
the yarn, according to claim 96, comprising: X1) one dyeing station
configured to apply a dye formulation comprising at least one
powdered dye, a powdered precursor dye, a powdered leuko-dye,
and/or at least one aqueous dye formulation, at least one aqueous
precursor dye formulation, or an alkaline aqueous leuko-dye
formulation to said fibers, yarn, or fabric being conveyed through
said dyeing station; and Y1) one drying station and/or one warm air
ventilation station configured to dry said fibers, yarn, or fabric
applied with said dye formulation, wherein said dyeing station
comprises only one vat filled with said dye formulation, and drums
that are arranged such that said fibers, yarn, or fabric merge once
with the dye formulation and leave the dye formulation and head to
said drying station and/or warm air ventilation station without
again merging with the dye formulation.
113. The installation according to 112, further comprising a
pretreating station configured to pretreat said fibers, yarn, or
fabric with one of the aqueous solutions c1), c2), or c3) by one of
the pretreating steps d1), d2) or d3), before the fibers, yarn, or
fabric is conveyed through said one dyeing station, and one drying
station and/or one warm ventilation station.
114. An installation for dyeing or coating synthetic fibers, yarn
including the synthetic fibers, or fabric including the synthetic
fibers or the yarn, according to claim 96, comprising: X2) a
coating station configured to apply a dye formulation comprising at
least one powdered dye, a powdered precursor dye, a powdered
leuko-dye, and/or at least one aqueous dye formulation, at least
one aqueous precursor dye formulation, or an alkaline aqueous
leuko-dye formulation, to said fibers, yarn, or fabric being
conveyed through said coating station.
115. The installation according to claim 114, further comprising: a
pretreating station configured to pretreat said fibers, yarn, or
fabric with one of the aqueous solutions c1), c2), or c3) by one of
the pretreating steps d1), d2) or d3), before said fibers, yarn, or
fabric is conveyed through said coating station.
116. An installation for dyeing or coating synthetic fibers, yarn
including the synthetic fibers, or fabric including the synthetic
fibers or yarn, according to claim 96, comprising: x) a coloring
station including a coating station or a dyeing station, the
coloring station being configured to apply a dye formulation
comprising at least one powdered dye, a powdered precursor dye, or
powdered leuko-dye, and/or at least one aqueous dye formulation, at
least one aqueous precursor dye formulation, or an alkaline aqueous
leuko-dye formulation, to said fibers, yarn, or fabric being
conveyed through said coloring station; and Z1) a thermal fixation
station, through which said fibers, yarn, or fabric applied with
said dye formulation is conveyed after leaving the coloring
station, configured to fix the applied dye formulation to said
fibers, yarn, or fabric by heating said fibers, yarn, or fabric, or
Z2) at least one chemical fixation station, through which said
fibers, yarn, or fabric applied with said dye formulation is
conveyed after leaving the coloring station, configured to apply an
aqueous formulation containing at least one condensation product of
an aliphatic polyamine and epihalohydrine, to said fibers, yarn, or
fabric, for fixing the applied dye formulation to said fibers,
yarn, or fabric.
117. Synthetic fibers a yarn including the synthetic fibers, or a
fabric including the synthetic fibers or yarn, wherein said fibers
are dyed and/or coated by the method according to claim 96.
118. Synthetic fibers, a yarn including the synthetic fibers, or a
fabric including the synthetic fibers or the yarn, wherein: said
fibers are dyed or coated with a dye formulation comprising at
least one powdered indigo dye or a powdered precursor indigo dye,
and/or said fibers are dyed or coated with at least one aqueous
indigo dye formulation, at least one aqueous precursor indigo dye
formulation, or an alkaline aqueous leuko-indigo dye formulation;
and said dyed and/or coated fibers have a dry rubbing fastness in a
range from 1.0 to 5.0, the dry rubbing fastness being determined by
ISO 105-X12:2001(E), and/or said dyed and/or coated fibers have a
wet rubbing fastness in a range from 0.5 to 3.0, the wet rubbing
fastness being determined by ISO 105-X12:2001(E).
119. The synthetic fibers, or the yarn, or the fabric according to
claim 118, wherein said fibers have been pretreated with an aqueous
system comprising at least one lipase enzyme or with an aqueous
system comprising nano-sized polyurethane particles, at least one
cross-linking agent, and at least one wetting agent.
Description
CROSS REFERENCE TO RELATED APPLICATIONS
[0001] This patent application is a U.S. National Stage patent
application of International Application No. PCT/EP2018/051594,
filed Jan. 23, 2018, which is incorporated herein by reference in
its entirety.
BACKGROUND
Field
[0002] The present invention pertains to processes and
installations for dyeing synthetic fibers, in particular polyester
fibers and/or polyamide fibers, as well as to fibers and fabrics
containing or consisting of dyed fibers, wherein said fibers are
obtained or obtainable according to any of the processes of the
present invention, particularly with any of the coloring
installations of the present invention.
Related Art
[0003] Denim jeans are regularly made from a cotton warp-faced
fabric in which the weft passes under two or more warp threads. It
can have a 1/2, or 2/1 or 3/1 twill structure and is woven
diagonally, i.e. the twill weaving produces a diagonal ribbing.
While the warp thread which generally forms the outer layer is
dyed, usually with indigo, the weft thread forming the inner side
of the fabric is left white. And, with common indigo dyeing
processes the core of the warp threads remains white while the
outer layer is colored. This phenomenon is called ring dyeing.
Since indigo itself is not soluble in water (990 .mu.g/l at
25.degree. C.) its reduced, water-soluble form, leuko-indigo, is
employed in the dyeing step. However, even the leuko-form of indigo
in most cases has a rather low affinity to the fiber materials to
be dyed, thereby requiring a number of repeated treatment steps. In
practical use indigo is reduced under alkaline conditions with
sodium dithionate to leuko-indigo. Depending on the pH of the
aqueous system leuko-indigo may occur in the mono-anion form, which
is present at about pH 11 and which has better ring-dyeing
properties due to less pronounced penetration characteristics, or
in the di-anion form. Oxidation by air converts the yellow-colored
leuko-indigo back to the blue-colored indigo.
[0004] During regular use abrasion yields a fading of the threads
having been ring-dyed with indigo thereby providing the well-known
"used" effect of denim jeans fabrics. Abrasion or fading can be
achieved by low washing fastness, an average light fastness, and a
low dry- and/or wet rubbing fastness.
[0005] While on the one hand an excess of hydrosulphite should be
present in the dyeing bath as sodium dithionite is sensitive to
atmospheric oxygen it has also been observed that such excess of
hydrosulphite may result in irregular dyeing. Usually, the indigo
concentration in such dyeing vats is not above 80 g/l.
[0006] In order to improve the dyeing properties the fibers usually
have to be subjected to pretreatment steps such as pre-wetting,
bottom dyeing or washing.
[0007] While indigo-dyed denim fabrics are regularly made from
cotton fibers there have also been attempts to manufacture blue
colored denim-like fabrics from synthetic fibers. Colored synthetic
fibers can be obtained by the so-called dope dyeing process. With
the dope dyeing process a dye, most often in the form of a colored
masterbatch, is mixed with the molten polymer forming the synthetic
fiber before the fibers are extruded through spinnerets for making
synthetic filaments. Dope dyeing provides synthetic fibers which
are homogeneously colored throughout the cross-section of the
filament. Hence, with dope dyed synthetic fibers any fading
characteristics being specific for indigo-dyed denim fabrics cannot
be obtained.
[0008] Since dope dyeing cannot be used to obtain synthetic fibers,
yarns or fabrics with fading characteristics being specific for
indigo dyed denim fabrics, it has been tried to use conventional
installations for dyeing cotton fibers, yarns, or fabrics to color
said fibers, yarns, or fabrics. Such a conventional installation is
schematically shown in FIG. 1. Therein fibers, yarns, or fabrics
are conveyed through several stations by rotating drums starting
with an accumulator station 1, followed in series by a calender 3,
a washing station 5, a ventilation station 7, three washing
stations 5, a cascade of eight dyeing stations 19 each followed by
a ventilation station 7, a washing station 5, a ventilation station
7, a washing station 5, a warm air ventilation station 117, three
washing stations 5, a drying station 11, and a sizing station
13.
[0009] It has been found, that using such conventional
installations for dyeing synthetic fibers, yarns, or fabrics with
indigo leads on one hand to a low amount of dye being picked up by
the fibers, yarns, or fabrics in the dyeing stations 19 and on the
other hand to most of the picked up dye being washed off in the
washing stations 5, such that the fading of the color is much
higher than being specific for indigo dyed denim fabrics. Further
to that conventional installations as shown in FIG. 1 require a
large production area which raises manufacturing costs. In addition
to that the high amount and diversity of stations increases the
complexity of the installation leading to high manufacturing
costs.
[0010] There has been a need for an installation that can be used
for the preparation of colored polyester fibers which would allow
to be used for the manufacture of denim-like fabrics
[0011] According to U.S. Pat. No. 2,774,647 polyester fibers can be
colored by subjecting said fibers to a dye-bath containing
leuko-indigo, a reducing agent and sodium tripolyphosphate as a
buffer and having a pH between 6.5 and 7.5 at a temperature in the
range of 100.degree. C. to about 144.degree. C. and oxidizing the
thus treated fibers with an aqueous solution comprising hydrogen
peroxide.
[0012] According to U.S. Pat. No. 4,369,213 prior art processes for
dyeing polyester fibers with indigo failed in providing the fading
characteristics and were thus not able to adequately simulate
indigo-dyed cotton fibers. This, however, shall be accomplished
based on the teaching of U.S. Pat. No. 4,369,213 by applying to a
polyester fiber a coating comprising polyvinyl alcohol and a
water-soluble polyamide containing secondary amino groups in the
polymer chain which have been reacted with epichlorohydrine and
curing said coating. A fabric obtained from said coated polyester
fibers was then treated with an aqueous alkaline leuko-indigo
solution and subsequently subjected to an oxidation step by having
it exposed to a stream of air. This multistep process requires the
use of two different types of polymers which renders it cumbersome
per se and also impractical for any recycling efforts.
[0013] There has been a need for a reliable method for the
preparation of colored polyester fibers which would allow to be
used for the manufacture of denim-like fabrics.
BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS/FIGURES
[0014] The accompanying drawings, which are incorporated herein and
form a part of the specification, illustrate the embodiments of the
present disclosure and, together with the description, further
serve to explain the principles of the embodiments and to enable a
person skilled in the pertinent art to make and use the
embodiments.
[0015] FIG. 1 a conventional installation used for dyeing cotton
fibers, yarn, multitude of yarns, or fabric with indigo;
[0016] FIG. 2 a schematic view of an installation for dyeing
synthetic fibers, yarn, plurality of yarns, or fabric illustrating
differences to a conventional installation in the arrangement of
drying stations, coloring stations, and fixation stations;
[0017] FIG. 3 an installation for a coating synthetic fabric
[0018] FIG. 4 a pretreating station preferably used when
pretreating with c1), c2) or c3);
[0019] FIG. 5 a standby stations, preferably used when pretreating
with c1);
[0020] FIG. 6 a washing station and a drying station, preferably
used when pretreating with c1);
[0021] FIG. 7 a pretreating station, and a drying station,
preferably used when pretreating with c2);
[0022] FIG. 8 a pretreating station, a steaming station, a washing
station, and a drying station preferably used when pretreating with
c3), or when steaming, washing, and drying after the fibers, yarn,
plurality of yarns, or fabric left the coloring station;
[0023] FIG. 9 a coating station, and a drying station, preferably
used when coating;
[0024] FIG. 10 a thermal fixation station;
[0025] FIG. 11 a dyeing station, preferably used when conducting
fibers, yarn, plurality of yarns, or fabric with an aqueous
electrolyte solution after dyeing;
[0026] FIG. 12 a sanforizing station.
[0027] The exemplary embodiments of the present disclosure will be
described with reference to the accompanying drawings. Elements,
features and components that are identical, functionally identical
and have the same effect are--insofar as is not stated
otherwise--respectively provided with the same reference
character.
DETAILED DESCRIPTION
[0028] In the following description, numerous specific details are
set forth in order to provide a thorough understanding of the
embodiments of the present disclosure. However, it will be apparent
to those skilled in the art that the embodiments, including
structures, systems, and methods, may be practiced without these
specific details. The description and representation herein are the
common means used by those experienced or skilled in the art to
most effectively convey the substance of their work to others
skilled in the art. In other instances, well-known methods,
procedures, components, and circuitry have not been described in
detail to avoid unnecessarily obscuring embodiments of the
disclosure.
[0029] An object of the present invention is to provide a method
and an installation for the preparation of colored polyester fibers
which is not hampered by the drawbacks of existing methods and
which in particular provides colored/dyed polyester fibers having
the fading characteristics which are typical for indigo-dyed denim
fabrics.
[0030] According to a first aspect of the present invention a
process for dyeing, in particular vat dyeing, or coating synthetic
fibers, in particular polyester fibers and/or polyamide fibers, or
yarns comprising or consisting of synthetic fibers or fabrics
comprising or consisting of synthetic fibers or of yarns comprising
or consisting of synthetic fibers, said process comprising the
steps of: [0031] a) providing a multitude of fibers comprising or
consisting of synthetic fibers, in particular polyester fibers
and/or polyamide fibers, or providing at least one yarn, in
particular a multitude of yarns, comprising or consisting of
synthetic fibers, in particular polyester fibers and/or polyamide
fibers, or [0032] providing at least one fabric comprising or
consisting of synthetic fibers, in particular polyester fibers
and/or polyamide fibers, or of at least one yarn, in particular a
multitude of yarns, comprising or consisting of synthetic fibers,
in particular polyester fibers and/or polyamide fibers; and [0033]
b1) providing at least one powdered dye or a powdered precursor
dye, in particular powdered leuko dye, or [0034] providing at least
one aqueous dye formulation or at least one aqueous precursor dye
formulation, in particular an alkaline aqueous leuko dye
formulation, [0035] c1) providing an aqueous system comprising at
least one lipase enzyme, in particular lipase from Candida sp., and
[0036] d1) pretreating said multitude of fibers or said yarn or
said multitude of yarns or said fabric with the aqueous system
comprising the at least one lipase enzyme, in particular lipase
from Candida sp., and [0037] e1) coating or dyeing said pretreated
multitude of fibers or said pretreated yarn or multitude of yarns
or said pretreated fabric with said at least one powdered dye or
with said powdered precursor dye, in particular powdered leuko dye,
or with said at least one aqueous dye formulation or with said at
least one aqueous precursor dye formulation, in particular the
alkaline aqueous leuko dye formulation.
[0038] It has also been found to be advantageous to conduct dyeing
of said pretreated fibers, yarn, multitude of yarns or fabric with
said aqueous dye formulation or with said at least one aqueous
precursor dye formulation, in particular with the alkaline aqueous
leuko dye formulation, is conducted according to the pad-batch
method.
[0039] According to another embodiment it has been found to be
advantageous to conduct in step d1) the pretreatment with the at
least one lipase enzyme, in particular lipase from Candida sp.,
according to the pad-batch method, in particular at a temperature
in the range from 25 to 60.degree. C., more in particular in the
range from 30 to 50.degree. C., and also in particular at a pH in
the range from 4.5 to 9, and more particular in the range from 5 to
8.
[0040] In the meaning of present specification the term
"leuko-indigo" shall be considered to be synonymous to the reduced
form of indigo.
[0041] According to a second aspect of the present invention a
process for dyeing, in particular vat dyeing, or coating synthetic
fibers, in particular polyester fibers and/or polyamide fibers, or
yarns comprising or consisting of synthetic fibers or fabrics
comprising or consisting of synthetic fibers or of yarns comprising
or consisting of synthetic fibers, said process comprising the
steps of:
[0042] a) providing a multitude of fibers comprising or consisting
of synthetic fibers, in particular polyester fibers and/or
polyamide fibers, or [0043] providing at least one yarn, in
particular a multitude of yarns, comprising or consisting of
synthetic fibers, in particular polyester fibers and/or polyamide
fibers, or [0044] providing at least one fabric comprising or
consisting of synthetic fibers, in particular polyester fibers
and/or polyamide fibers, or of at least one yarn, in particular a
multitude of yarns, comprising or consisting of synthetic fibers,
in particular polyester fibers and/or polyamide fibers; and [0045]
b2) providing at least one powdered dye or a powdered precursor
dye, in particular powdered leuko dye, or [0046] providing at least
one aqueous dye formulation or at least one aqueous precursor dye
formulation, in particular an alkaline aqueous leuko dye
formulation, [0047] c2) providing an aqueous system comprising
nano-sized polyurethane particles, at least one cross-linking agent
and at least one wetting agent and [0048] d2) pretreating said
multitude of fibers or said yarn or said multitude of yarns or said
fabric, in particular said fabric, with said aqueous system
comprising said nano-sized polyurethane particles, at least one
cross-linking agent and at least one wetting agent and [0049] e2)
coating or dyeing said pretreated multitude of fibers or said
pretreated yarn or multitude of yarns or said pretreated fabric
with said at least one powdered dye or with said powdered precursor
dye, in particular with said powdered leuko dye, or with said at
least one aqueous dye formulation or with said at least one aqueous
precursor dye formulation, in particular the alkaline aqueous leuko
dye formulation;
[0050] The aqueous system comprising nano-sized polyurethane
particles in a rather pragmatic embodiment is a nano-dispersion of
self-cross-linking amphoteric or anionic polyether polyurethanes.
These nano-sized polyurethane particles preferably have an average
particle size of less than 100 nm.
[0051] According to a third aspect of the present invention a
process for dyeing, in particular vat dyeing, or coating synthetic
fibers, in particular polyester fibers and/or polyamide fibers, or
yarns comprising or consisting of synthetic fibers or fabrics
comprising or consisting of synthetic fibers or of yarns comprising
or consisting of synthetic fibers, said process comprising the
steps of: [0052] a) providing a multitude of fibers comprising or
consisting of synthetic fibers, in particular polyester fibers
and/or polyamide fibers, or [0053] providing at least one yarn, in
particular a multitude of yarns, comprising or consisting of
synthetic fibers, in particular polyester fibers and/or polyamide
fibers, or [0054] providing at least one fabric comprising or
consisting of synthetic fibers, in particular polyester fibers
and/or polyamide fibers, or of at least one yarn, in particular a
multitude of yarns, comprising or consisting of synthetic fibers,
in particular polyester fibers and/or polyamide fibers; and [0055]
b3) providing at least one powdered dye or a powdered precursor
dye, in particular powdered leuko dye, or [0056] providing at least
one aqueous dye formulation or at least one aqueous precursor dye
formulation, in particular an alkaline aqueous leuko dye
formulation, [0057] c3) providing an aqueous system comprising at
least one base, in particular an alkali hydroxide, more in
particular potassium hydroxide, and optionally at least one wetting
agent, and [0058] d3) pretreating said multitude of fibers or said
yarn or said multitude of yarns or said fabric, in particular said
multitude of fibers, yarn or multitude of yarns, with said aqueous
system comprising the at least one base and optionally the at least
one wetting agent, and [0059] e3) coating or dyeing said pretreated
multitude of fibers or said pretreated yarn or multitude of yarns
or said pretreated fabric with said at least one powdered dye or
with said powdered precursor dye, in particular said powdered leuko
dye, or with said at least one aqueous dye formulation or with said
at least one aqueous precursor dye formulation, in particular the
alkaline aqueous leuko dye formulation.
[0060] According to a rather practical embodiment to conduct the
pretreatment of the fibers, yarn, multitude of yarns or fabric with
said aqueous dye formulation or with said at least one aqueous
precursor dye formulation, in particular with the alkaline aqueous
leuko dye formulation, according to d3) according to the pad-batch
method
[0061] It has been found to be advantageous in some cases that in
pretreatment step d3) the aqueous system has a pH in the range from
10 to 13, in particular in the range from 10.5 to 12.0, and/or a
temperature in the range from 20 to 70.degree. C., in particular
from 30 to 60.degree. C., more preferably, the pretreatment step
d3) is conducted in such a manner that surface material of said
pretreated synthetic fibers is at least partially peeled off
whereby said synthetic fibers exhibit a weight reduction, in
particular in the range from 5% to 35%, more in particular in the
range from 10 to 30%.
[0062] According to another preferred embodiment the pretreatment
step d3) further comprises subjecting the multitude of fibers to
steam, in particular to saturated steam, for a period of time, in
particular for 15 to 100 seconds, preferably for 30 to 60
seconds.
[0063] Satisfactory results can also be obtained in that the
multitude of fibers in the pretreatment d1), d2) or d3) is
subjected to the aqueous system for no more than 30 seconds, in
particular for no more than 15 seconds.
[0064] It is also been found to be rather pragmatic to conduct the
dyeing of said pretreated fibers, yarn, multitude of yarns or
fabric with said aqueous dye formulation or with said at least one
aqueous precursor dye formulation, in particular with the alkaline
aqueous leuko dye formulation, according to the pad-batch
method.
[0065] Dyes suitable for use with the process of the present
invention comprise, in particular are consisting of, vat dyes, in
particular selected from the group consisting of indigo, indigoid
dyes, in particular isoindigo, indirubin and/or 6,6'-dibromoindigo,
e.g. Tyrian purple, indanthren dyes, anthrachinon dyes,
anthraquinone dyes, naphthalene dyes and mixtures thereof.
Moreover, suitable precursor dyes comprise of consist of leuko
dyes, in particular selected from the group consisting of
leuko-indigo, leuko-indigoid dyes, in particular leuko-isoindigo,
leuko-indirubin and/or leuko-6,6'-dibromoindigo, e.g. leuko-Tyrian
purple, leuko-indanthren dyes, leuko-anthrachinon dyes,
leuko-anthraquinone dyes, leuko-naphthalene dyes and mixtures
thereof.
[0066] Leuko dyes for the process of the present invention can be
obtained from a corresponding vat dye by treatment in an aqueous
alkaline system with a reducing agent, in particular selected from
the group consisting of thiourea dioxide, sodium dithionite, sodium
hydrogen sulphite, hydroxyacetone, sodium hydroxymethylsulfinate,
borohydride and mixtures thereof. Hence, the leuko dye, in
particular the leuko indigo dye formulation containing aqueous
formulation can for example be obtained in an alkaline aqueous
system containing a reducing agent such as hydrosulfite and
indigo.
[0067] In a very advantageous embodiment the aqueous alkaline
system containing the leuko dye is the least one aqueous precursor
dye formulation.
[0068] According to another embodiment step b1), b2) or b3)
comprises providing at least one, in particular non-encapsulated,
powdered leuko dye, in particular powdered leuko-indigo dye, or at
least one, in particular non-encapsulated, aqueous leuko dye
formulation, in particular alkaline aqueous leuko-indigo dye
formulation, and also at least one migration inhibitor, at least
one dispersing agent, at least one wetting agent and at least one
cationic polymer, in particular based on polyamide-epichlorohydrin
resin, and wherein said multitude of fibers, yarn, multitude of
yarns or fabric is dyed with said powdered leuko dye or said
aqueous leuko dye formulation according to b1), b2) or b3).
[0069] According to a further embodiment the step b1), b2) or b3)
comprises providing at least one powdered leuko dye, in particular
powdered leuko-indigo dye, or at least one aqueous leuko dye
formulation, in particular alkaline aqueous leuko-indigo dye
formulation, and also at least one migration inhibitor, at least
one dispersing agent, at least one wetting agent and at least one
cationic polymer, in particular based on polyamide-epichlorohydrin
resin, and and wherein said multitude of fibers, yarn, multitude of
yarns or fabric is coated with said powdered leuko dye or said
aqueous leuko dye formulation according to b1), b2) or b3).
[0070] Satisfactory results are in particular obtained for those
embodiments in which after the pretreatment step d1), d2) or d3)
the fibers, yarn, multitude of yarns or the fabric are kept at room
temperature for about 14 to 36 hours, in particular for about 18 to
about 24 hours, and subsequently washed. Washing can for example
take place in a multi-vat-, in particular in an 8 vat-, washing
machine, using a temperature in the range from 30 to 95.degree. C.,
in particular in the range from 40 to 90.degree. C.
[0071] The pretreatment step d1), d2) or d3) is preferably carried
out while said multitude of fibers, yarn, multitude of yarns or the
fabric are wrapped on a roll.
[0072] The aqueous dye formulation or the at least one aqueous
precursor dye formulation, in particular the alkaline aqueous leuko
dye formulation, used for coating in step e1), e2) or e3)
preferably has a viscosity in the range from 10 to 70 Dpas, in
particular in the range from 30 to 60 Dpas, determined at
23.+-.5.degree. C., preferably at 23.+-.2.5.degree. C., more
preferably at 23.+-.1.5.degree. C., most preferably at
23.+-.0.5.degree. C.
[0073] According to a suitable embodiment in step e1), e2) or e3)
the dye used for dyeing or coating is a powdered leuko dye or an
alkaline aqueous leuko dye formulation, in particular an alkaline
aqueous leuko-indigo dye formulation.
[0074] In rather practical embodiments of the processes of the
present invention the coated or dyed multitude of fibers, yarn,
multitude of yarns or fabric of step e1), e2) or e3), resp., are
treated with at least one oxidizing agent, in particular selected
from the group consisting of oxygen, air, in particular heated air,
inorganic peroxo compounds, hydrogen peroxide, potassium
dichromate, sodium hypochlorite, peracetic acid and mixtures
thereof. In this manner leuko dyes such as leuko indigo are
effectively transformed into their respective oxidized forms.
[0075] In a more preferred embodiment the processes of present
invention further comprise after the coating or dyeing step a step
of subjecting the fibers, yarn, multitude of yarns or the fabric to
water steam. The water steam usually can have a temperature in the
range from 95 to 110.degree. C., and in particular in the range
from 98 to 102.degree. C. Subjecting to water steam, in particular
having the aforementioned temperature, preferably takes from about
1 to about 10 minutes, and preferably from about 2 to about 4
minutes.
[0076] The aforementioned step of subjecting the fibers, yarn,
multitude of yarns or the fabric to an oxidizing agent, e.g. a
water steam can according to favourable embodiment to be followed
by a washing step, in particular in a multi-vat-, more particular
in an 8 vat-, washing machine using a temperature in the range from
25 to 98.degree. C., in particular in the range from 30 to
95.degree. C.
[0077] It is also possible to alternatively or additionally subject
the fibers, yarn, multitude of yarns or the fabric after dyeing to
at least one washing step.
[0078] The washed fibers, yarn, multitude of yarns or the washed
fabric can according to a rather suitable embodiment be subjected
to a drying step. Such drying step is preferably carried out at a
temperature in the range from 98 to 130.degree. C., in particular
in the range from 100 to 120.degree. C., over a time period, in
particular in the range from 30 seconds to 10 minutes, more in
particular in the range from 1 to 3 minutes.
[0079] Particularly good and reliable results can also be obtained
with the processes of the present invention in which after dyeing
(first dyeing step), and optionally after the at least one washing
step, the fibers, yarn, multitude of yarns or fabric are treated
with at least one aqueous electrolyte solution containing at least
one cationic electrolyte, in particular at least one cationic
polyelectrolyte. As a rather suitable cationic electrolyte
poly(diallyldimethyl ammonium chloride) is used. Said treatment
with the at least one aqueous electrolyte solution containing at
least one cationic electrolyte can in rather suitable embodiments
be conducted at a pressure in the range from 60 to 120 bar,
particular in the range from 70 to 100 bar. And, treating the
fibers, yarn, multitude of yarns or fabric with the aqueous
electrolyte solution can in most cases be followed by at least one
washing step. Particularly satisfactory results are obtained by
subjecting the thus treated and optionally washed fibers, yarn,
multitude of yarns or fabric to another dyeing step (second dyeing
step) with said at least one aqueous dye formulation. Again, it has
been found to be advantageous to conduct the dyeing step by use of
the pad-batch method, which is optionally followed by at least one
washing step. It has been found to be advantageous that the dye in
the first dyeing step and/or in the second dyeing step is a
powdered leuko dye, in particular powdered leuko-indigo dye, or an
aqueous leuko dye formulation, in particular an alkaline aqueous
leuko-indigo dye formulation. According to another rather suitable
embodiment the dye in the first dyeing step and/or in the second
dyeing step is a reactive dye or a powdered leuko-indigo dye or an
aqueous leuko-indigo dye formulation.
[0080] Accordingly it has been found to be most suitable that after
the dyeing step e1), e2) or e3) (first dyeing step), and optionally
after the at least one washing step, the fibers, the yarn, the
multitude of yarns or the fabric are treated with at least one
aqueous electrolyte solution containing at least one cationic
electrolyte, in particular at least one cationic polyelectrolyte,
and optionally subsequently subjected to at least one washing step,
and are subsequently subjected to another dyeing step (second
dyeing step) with at least one powdered dye or with at least one
powdered precursor dye, in particular with a powdered leuko dye, or
with at least one aqueous dye formulation or with at least one
aqueous precursor dye formulation, in particular an alkaline
aqueous leuko dye formulation, in particular according to the
pad-batch method, which is optionally followed by at least one
washing step.
[0081] The processes of the present invention preferably further
comprise after the dyeing or coating step at least one drying step,
in particular comprising subjecting the dyed or coated fibers,
yarn, multitude of yarns or fabric to a temperature in the range
from 100 to 175.degree. C., in particular in the range from 120 and
160.degree. C., over a period of time, in particular in the range
from 5 seconds to 5 minutes.
[0082] It is also rather advantageous in terms of repeatable and
reliable results to additionally or alternatively subject the
fibers, yarn, multitude of yarns or fabric after the dyeing or
coating step, in particular after the coating step, to at least one
fixation step. Said fixation step preferably comprises subjecting
the dyed or coated and optionally dried fibers, yarn, multitude of
yarns or fabric to a temperature in the range from 160 to
220.degree. C., more in particular in the range from 170 to
200.degree. C., for a period of time, in particular in the range
from 30 seconds to 5 minutes, more in particular the range from 1
to 3 minutes. Regularly heated gas, and more preferably heated air
can be used for the fixation step.
[0083] In the processes of the present invention the at least one
aqueous dye formulation, in particular the aqueous indigo dye
formulation, used for coating, in particular following step d2),
said fibers, yarn, multitude of yarns or fabric, in particular said
fabric, comprises at least one dye, in particular the vat dye, in
particular said (unreduced) indigo dye, or the precursor dye, in
particular said leuko-indigo dye, and more in particular the vat
dye, in particular said (unreduced) indigo dye, at least one
binder, in particular a cross-linkable acrylic binder, at least one
thickener and optionally at least one softening agent, in
particular a nano-silicone-based softening agent.
[0084] Usually, the coating step in the processes of the present
invention is conducted by way of knife coating or by way of rotary
printing. Knife coating, however, is particularly preferred.
[0085] And, according to another embodiment in the processes of the
present invention the aqueous dye formulation, in particular the
aqueous dye formulation used for dyeing, comprises at least one
organic coloring substance as a dye, preferably a non-ionic dye,
more preferable an (unreduced) indigo dye, and optionally at least
one dispersing agent. Said dispersing agent can suitably be
selected from the group consisting of alkyl sulphates, alkylaryl
sulphonates, fatty alcohols, condensation products of amines and
ethylene oxide, condensation products of naphthalene sulphonic acid
and formaldehyde, lignin sulphonate and mixtures thereof.
[0086] Surprisingly, reliable and a satisfactory result are
accomplished with those processes of the present invention in which
the at least one aqueous dye formulation, in particular the aqueous
leuko dye formulation and more in particular the aqueous
leuko-indigo dye formulation, has a pH in the range from 10 to 13,
in particular in the range from 10.5 to 12.5.
[0087] Moreover, beneficial results can also be obtained by use of
aqueous dye formulations, in particular aqueous leuko dye
formulations and more in particular the aqueous leuko-indigo dye
formulation, which exhibit a density at 25.degree. C. in the range
from 0.6 to 1.5 g/ml, in particular in the range from 0.8-1.2
g/ml.
[0088] The aqueous dye formulations, in particular the aqueous
leuko-indigo dye formulations, which are used for dyeing with the
processes of the present invention preferably comprise at least one
dye, in particular leuko-indigo dye, at least one silicone, in
particular nano-silicone, at least one binder, in particular a
crosslinkable acrylic binder, at least one thickener, at least one
defoamer, at least one amine, in particular ammonia, and water.
[0089] According to an alternative embodiment the at least one
aqueous dye formulation, in particular the aqueous (unreduced)
indigo dye formulation, to be used for dyeing comprises at least
one dye, in particular (unreduced) indigo dye, at least one
silicone, in particular nano-silicone, at least one binder, in
particular a crosslinkable acrylic binder, at least one thickener,
at least one defoamer, at least one amine, in particular ammonia,
and water.
[0090] Alternatively, the aqueous dye formulation can comprise the
indigo dye, at least one base, at least one wetting agent and
optionally at least one carrier agent. The wetting agent to the
extent used with the processes according to the invention
advantageously comprises at least one anionic phosphoric acid
ester.
[0091] According to another embodiment warp or rope coating or warp
or rope dyeing is used for coating or dyeing, resp., of the
pretreated multitude of fibers, yarn, multitude of yarns or the
pretreated fabric with the at least one powdered dye, in particular
the powdered vat dye, and more in particular said (unreduced)
indigo dye, or the precursor dye, in particular said leuko-indigo
dye, and more in particular the vat dye, in particular said
(unreduced) indigo dye, or with the at least one aqueous dye
formulation, in particular the alkaline aqueous leuko dye
formulation.
[0092] In particular in order to reduce or eliminate the shrinking
properties of the dyed or coated fibers, yarn, multitude of yarns
or fabrics the processes of the present invention can further
comprise a sanforizing step of the at least one dyed fibers, yarn,
multitude of yarns or fabric, in particular of the dyed fabric,
after the fixation step.
[0093] In some further embodiments it has been found to be
pragmatic that the fibers, yarn, multitude of yarns and/or the
fabrics are subjected to a cationization step after the
pre-treatment step and prior to the coating or dyeing step, in
particular prior to the fixation step.
[0094] For fixation in the fixation step the coated or dyed fibers,
yarn, multitude of yarns or fabric, in particular the dyed fibers
or fabric, are preferably treated with at least one aqueous
formulation containing at least one condensation product of an
aliphatic polyamine and epihalohydrine, in particular
epichlorohydrine. This is in a preferred embodiment carried out
simultaneously with heated water steam treatment. Said aqueous
formulation containing the at least one condensation product
preferably has a pH value in the range from 3 to 6, particular in
the range from 3.5 to 5.
[0095] Simultaneously or alternatively the temperature of said
aqueous formulation can be in the range from 40 to 95.degree. C.,
and in particular in the range from 55 to 85.degree. C. And,
suitable condensation products of the aliphatic polyamine and
epihalohydrine can comprise a cationic reaction product of a
homopolymer of diallylamine, a homopolymer of N-methyl-diallylamine
or a copolymer of diallylamine and N-methyl-diallylamine with
epihalohydrine, in particular with epichlorohydrine.
[0096] Preferred polyester fibers used with the processes of the
present invention, either for the multitude synthetic fibers, the
yarn or multitude of yarns made from or comprising synthetic fibers
or the fabric made from or comprising said synthetic fibers, said
yarn or said multitude of yarns include polyethylenterephthalate
fibers. It is also possible to employ and step a) or A) a mixture
of synthetic fibers, in particular polyester fibers and/or
polyamide fibers, and cotton fibers and/or at least one yarn,
multitude of yarns or at least one fabric comprising or consisting
of synthetic fibers, in particular polyester fibers and/or
polyamide fibers, and cotton fibers.
[0097] In an advantageous embodiment the multitude of fibers
comprising or consisting of synthetic fibers, in particular
polyester fibers and/or polyamide fibers, e.g. multi- or
bicomponent fibers, or said fabric comprising or consisting of
synthetic fibers, in particular polyester fibers and/or polyamide
fibers, e.g. multi- or bicomponent fibers, pretreated according to
step d3) exhibit after said pretreatment step a tensile strength
which is less than the tensile strength of said fibers prior to the
pretreatment step, in particular not more than 20% less the tensile
strength of said fibers prior to the pretreatment step and more in
particular not more than 10% less the tensile strength of said
fibers prior to the pretreatment step, measured in each case at
23.+-.5.degree. C., preferably at 23.+-.2.5.degree. C., more
preferably at 23.+-.1.5.degree. C., most preferably at
23.+-.0.5.degree. C.
[0098] In a preferred embodiment the synthetic fiber of the
multitude of fibers or of the yarn or of the multitude of yarns or
of the fabric is a multicomponent fiber, in particular a
bicomponent fiber. The multicomponent fiber, in particular the
bicomponent fiber can be selected from the group consisting of a
solid or hollow side-by-side fiber, a sheath-core fiber, an
islands-in-the-sea fiber (matrix-fibril) and a
segmented-pie-structure fiber.
[0099] Preferably, the multicomponent, in particular the
bicomponent fibers are made of poly(ethylene)terephthalate and
polyethylene naphthalate, nylon-6,6 and
polycyclohexylenedimethylene terephthalate (PCT), polypropylene and
poly(butylene)terephthalate, nylon-6 and copolyamides, polylactic
acid and polystyrene, polyacetal, in particular polyoxymethylene,
and polyurethane, copolyesters and HD-polyethylene or copolyesters
and LLD-polyethylene, polyolefins, in particular polypropylene, and
polyamides.
[0100] The core-sheath bicomponent fibers preferably are made of a
polyester core, in particular a poly(ethylene)terephthalate core,
and a copolyester sheath, or of a polyester core, in particular a
poly(ethylene)terephthalate core, and a polyethylene sheath or of a
polypropylene core and a polyethylene sheath or of a polyamide
core, in particular nylon-6,6, and a polyolefin sheath, in
particular a polypropylene sheath. And, the islands-in-the-sea
bicomponent fibers are preferably comprising a polyolefins matrix,
in particular polypropylene matrix, and polyamide, in particular
polyamide fibrils, embedded in the matrix.
[0101] The yarn made of or comprising synthetic fibers suitably is
a textured and/or an oriented yarn selected from the group
consisting of a Low Oriented Yarn (LOY), Medium Oriented Yarn
(MOY), Partially Oriented Yarn (POY), High Oriented Yarn (HOY) and
Fully Oriented Yarn (FOY). A yarn can usually be considered to
represent a long continuous length of interlocked fibers. Yarns are
thus typically made from a multitude of fibers, e.g. from synthetic
fibers or from a mixture of natural and/or synthetic fibers. A yarn
can be a so-called spun yarn or a filament yarn.
[0102] Among the above yarns those yarn or those multitude of yarns
are preferred which represent or comprise yarns which are textured
and partially oriented yarns. Textured yarns can for example be
produced by the so-called false-twist coiling method, the
stuffer-box crimping method, the air-jet texturing method, the
knit-de-knit crinkling method and the gear crimping method.
[0103] The particle size of the powdered dye, in particular the
particle size of the powdered indigo dye, as provided in step b1),
b2), b3) or B) preferably is below 10 .mu.m, and in particular in
the range from 1 to 5 .mu.m.
[0104] The multitude of fibers comprising or consisting of
synthetic fibers, in particular polyester fibers and/or polyamide
fibers, yarn, multitude of yarns or the fabric comprising or
consisting of synthetic fibers, in particular polyester fibers
and/or polyamide fibers, pretreated according to step d3) exhibit
after said pretreatment step a tensile strength which is less than
the tensile strength of said fibers prior to the pretreatment step,
in particular not more than 20% less the tensile strength of said
fibers prior to the pretreatment step and more in particular not
more than 10% less the tensile strength of said fibers prior to the
pretreatment step, measured in each at 23.+-.5.degree. C.,
preferably at 23.+-.2.5.degree. C., more preferably at
23.+-.1.5.degree. C., most preferably at 23.+-.0.5.degree. C.
[0105] In preferred embodiments of the process of the present
invention it is provided that [0106] a fabric prepared from
synthetic fibers or from a yarn or a multitude of yarns comprising
or consisting of synthetic fibers is subjected to pretreatment step
d1), d2) or d3), in particular d2), and pretreated fabric is coated
according to step e1), e2) or e3), respectively; or that [0107]
synthetic fibers or a yarn or a multitude of yarns comprising or
consisting of synthetic fibers are subjected to pretreatment step
d1), d2) or d3), in particular d2), said fibers, yarn or yarns are
formed into a fabric, and said fabric is coated or dyed, in
particular coated, according to step e1), e2) or e3), respectively;
or that [0108] synthetic fibers or a yarn or a multitude of yarns
comprising or consisting of synthetic fibers are subjected to
pretreatment step d1), d2) or d3), in particular d2), said fibers,
yarn or yarns are dyed according to step e1), e2) or e3), resp.; or
that [0109] synthetic fibers or a yarn or a multitude of yarns
comprising or consisting of synthetic fibers are subjected to
pretreatment step d1), d2) or d3), in particular d2), said fibers,
yarn or yarns are dyed according to step e1), e2) or e3), resp.,
said fibers, yarn or yarns are formed into a fabric, and said
fabric is coated or dyed, in particular coated, according to step
e1), e2) or e3), respectively; or that [0110] synthetic fibers or a
yarn or a multitude of yarns comprising or consisting of synthetic
fibers are subjected to pretreatment step d1), d2) or d3), in
particular d2), said fibers, yarn or yarns are formed into a
fabric, said fabric is subjected to pretreatment step d1), d2) or
d3), in particular d2), and in the following said fabric is coated
or dyed, in particular coated, according to step e1), e2) or e3),
respectively; or that [0111] synthetic fibers or a yarn or a
multitude of yarns comprising or consisting of synthetic fibers are
subjected to pretreatment step d1), d2) or d3), in particular d2),
said fibers, yarn or yarns are dyed according to step e1), e2) or
e3), resp., and are in the following formed into a fabric, said
fabric is subjected to pretreatment step d1), d2) or d3), in
particular d2), and in the following said fabric is coated or dyed,
in particular coated, according to step e1), e2) or e3),
respectively.
[0112] It is been found with the present invention that the
pretreatment processes including lipase enzymes (c1)/d1)),
nano-sized polyurethane particles (c2)/d2)), and base treatment
(c3)/d3)) can be successfully combined with electrostatic dyeing
methods using electrolytic solutions, with fabric coating methods,
with warp coating and warp dyeing processes to furnish dyed
synthetic fibers, yarn, multitude of yarns and fabrics, in
particular indigo dyed polyester fibers and/or polyamide fibers and
fabrics.
[0113] The problem underlying the present invention has also been
solved by dyed synthetic fibers, in particular dyed polyester
fibers and/or dyed polyamide fibers, or dyed yarn, or dyed
multitude of yarns or dyed fabric obtained or obtainable according
to one of the processes according to the present invention as
described above.
[0114] The problem underlying the present invention has also been
solved by coated synthetic fibers, in particular coated polyester
fibers and/or coated polyamide fibers, or coated yarn, or coated
multitude of yarns or coated fabric obtained or obtainable
according to one of the processes according to the present
invention as described above.
[0115] The polyester fibers and/or polyamide fibers are selected
from the group consisting of polyethylenparticule terephthalate
(PET) fibers and poly-1,4-cyclohexylene-dimethylene terephthalate
(PCDT) fibers.
[0116] The fibers, yarn, multitude of yarns and fabrics obtained
according to the processes of the present invention exhibit
excellent crocking properties as well as a sufficient tensile
strength and tear resistance.
[0117] According to a fourth aspect of the present invention an
installation for dyeing or coating, in particular for indigo-dyeing
or indigo-coating, synthetic fibers, in particular polyester fibers
and/or polyamide fibers, or a yarn comprising or consisting of
synthetic fibers, or a multitude of yarns comprising or consisting
of synthetic fibers, or a fabric comprising or consisting of
synthetic fibers or of yarns comprising or consisting of synthetic
fibers, is provided, said installation comprising: [0118] x) a
coloring station, in particular a coating station or a dyeing
station, wherein a dye formulation comprising at least one powdered
dye or a powdered precursor dye, in particular powdered leuko dye,
and/or at least one aqueous dye formulation or at least one aqueous
precursor dye formulation, in particular an alkaline aqueous leuko
dye formulation, is applied to said fibers, yarn, multitude of
yarns, or fabric being conveyed through said coloring station, and
[0119] w) a drying station, wherein before, in particular directly
before, said fibers, yarn, multitude of yarns, or fabric enter the
coloring station, said fibers, yarn, multitude of yarns, or fabric
is/are conveyed through said drying station such that said powdered
dye or aqueous dye formulation is applied to dried fibers, a dried
yarn, a dried multitude of yarns, or a dried fabric within the
coloring station.
[0120] After leaving the drying station, said fibers, yarn,
multitude of yarns, or fabric preferably have/has a moisture
content less than 1 wt.-%, preferably less than 0.5 wt.-%, more
preferably less than 0.25 wt.-% of the fiber's, yarn's, multitude
of yarn's, or fabric's dry mass. The amount of dye formulation
being picked up in the subsequent coloring station is preferably at
least 80%, more preferably at least 70%, most preferably at least
60% and/or preferably maximally 90%, more preferably maximally 80%,
most preferably maximally 70% of the fiber's, yarn's, multitude of
yarn's, or fabric's dry mass.
[0121] In some embodiments said drying station comprises at least
one, preferably at least two, or four, or six heated drum/s and/or
preferably maximally fourteen, more preferably maximally twelve, or
ten, or eight heated drums, the drums preferably conductively heat
said fibers, yarn, multitude of yarns, or fabric being conveyed
over said drum/s by a surface temperature, said surface temperature
preferably being at least 100.degree. C., more preferably at least
120.degree. C., most preferably at least 130.degree. C. and/or
preferably maximally 140.degree. C., more preferably maximally
130.degree. C. It has been found advantageous to bring said fibers,
yarn, multitude of yarns, or fabric in contact with the heated
surface of said drum/s for at least 10 seconds, or at least 20
seconds, or at least 40 seconds, or at least 60 seconds, or at
least 80 seconds, or at least 100 seconds and/or preferably
maximally for 200 seconds, or maximally 180 seconds, or maximally
160 seconds, or maximally 140 seconds, or maximally 120 seconds,
most preferably for about 120 seconds.
[0122] While being conveyed over said heated drums, said fibers,
yarn, multitude of yarns, or fabric is/are preferably in contact in
circumferential direction with at least 150 degree, more preferably
with at least 180 degree, most preferably with at least 210 degree
and/or preferably with maximally 330 degree, more preferably with
at least 300 degree, most preferably with at least 270 or 240
degree of the heated surface.
[0123] In a preferred embodiment said drying station comprises at
least one stenter, wherein said fibers, yarn, multitude of yarns,
or fabric is/are convection heated by air, preferably by air having
a temperature of at least 120.degree. C., more preferably of at
least 140.degree. C., and/or preferably maximally 180.degree. C.,
more preferably maximally 160.degree. C., most preferably maximally
145.degree. C., or about 140.degree. C. Preferably said fibers,
yarn, multitude of yarns, or fabric is/are conveyed for at least 10
seconds, or at least 20 seconds, or at least 40 seconds, or at
least 60 seconds, or at least 80 seconds, or at least 100 seconds
and/or preferably maximally for 200 seconds, or maximally 180
seconds, or maximally 160 seconds, or maximally 140 seconds, or
maximally 120 seconds, most preferably for about 120 seconds
through said stenter.
[0124] It has been found advantageous to complement an installation
of the present invention by a ventilation station through which
said fibers, yarn, multitude of yarns, or fabric is/are conveyed
before entering the drying station. Within such ventilation station
said fibers, yarn, multitude of yarns, or fabric is/are dried by
air, said air preferably has a temperature of at least 20.degree.
C. and/or of maximally 40.degree. C., more preferably of about
25.degree. C. In a preferred embodiment said fibers, yarn,
multitude of yarns, or fabric is/are preferably conveyed for at
least 300 seconds, more preferably for at least 600 seconds and/or
preferably for maximally 1200 seconds, more preferably for
maximally 900 seconds through said ventilation station. In a
preferred embodiment, the fibers, yarn, multitude of yarns, or
fabric is/are conveyed over at least 6, or at least 8, or at least
10 and/or over maximally 16, or maximally 14, or maximally 12, most
preferably over 9 rotating drums within the ventilation station.
These drums are preferably arranged in two lines, being
substantially parallel to each other, wherein said lines of
rotating drums preferably have a distance of at least 5 meter
and/or maximally 15 meter, preferably of about 10 meter.
[0125] In a rather preferred embodiment the fibers, yarn, multitude
of yarns, or fabric is/are conveyed over four, six, eight, or ten
rotating drums while being conveyed from the ventilation station to
the drying station, wherein the fibers, yarn, multitude of yarns,
or fabric preferably travel/travels a distance of at least 30 meter
and maximally 50 meter from the ventilation station to the drying
station.
[0126] It has been found advantageous to supplemented the
installation of the present invention by a pretreating station for
pretreating synthetic fibers, in particular polyester fibers and/or
polyamide fibers, or yarns comprising or consisting of synthetic
fibers, or a fabric comprising or consisting of synthetic fibers or
of yarns comprising or consisting of synthetic fibers, with one of
the aqueous solutions c1), c2), or c3), preferably by one of the
pretreating steps d1), d2) or d3), before the fibers, yarn,
multitude of yarns, or fabric is/are conveyed in series through
said drying station and said coloring station, more preferably
before the fibers, yarn, multitude of yarns, or fabric is/are
conveyed in series through a ventilation station, said drying
station, and said coloring station.
[0127] Additionally or alternatively, it is preferred to supplement
the installation for dyeing or coating a fabric comprising or
consisting of synthetic fibers or of yarns comprising or consisting
of synthetic fibers by a second installation as described in view
of the fourth aspect of the present invention, wherein the coloring
station of the first installation is a dyeing station, and wherein
the coloring station of the second installation is a coating
station, wherein the installations are arranged in such a way that
the fabric is conveyed through said dyeing station before being
conveyed through said coating station.
[0128] Additionally or alternatively, it is preferred to supplement
the installation for dyeing or coating synthetic fibers, a yarn
comprising or consisting of synthetic fibers, or a multitude of
yarns comprising or consisting of synthetic fibers by a second
installation as described in view of the fourth aspect of the
present invention, wherein the coloring station of the first
installation is a dyeing station, and wherein the coloring station
of the second installation is a coating station, wherein the
installations are arranged in such a way that the fibers, yarn, or
multitude of yarns are conveyed through said dyeing station before
being conveyed through said coating station. It has been found
advantageous to supplement such an installation for dyeing said
fibers, yarn, or multitude of yarns by a weaving machine for
weaving said fibers, yarn, or multitude of yarns into a fabric
after leaving the dyeing station and before entering the coating
station.
[0129] According to a fifth aspect of the present invention an
installation for dyeing, in particular for indigo-dyeing, synthetic
fibers, in particular polyester fibers and/or polyamide fibers, or
a yarn comprising or consisting of synthetic fibers, or a multitude
of yarns comprising or consisting of synthetic fibers, or a fabric
comprising or consisting of synthetic fibers or of yarns comprising
or consisting of synthetic fibers, is provided, said installation
comprising: [0130] X1) one dyeing station, wherein a dye
formulation comprising at least one powdered dye or a powdered
precursor dye, in particular powdered leuko dye, and/or at least
one aqueous dye formulation or at least one aqueous precursor dye
formulation, in particular an alkaline aqueous leuko dye
formulation, is applied to said fibers, yarn, multitude of yarns,
or fabric being conveyed through said dyeing station, and [0131]
Y1) one drying station and/or one warm air ventilation station,
wherein said fibers, yarn, multitude of yarns, or fabric applied
with said dye formulation is/are dried, wherein said dyeing station
comprises only one vat filled with said dye formulation, and
wherein drums are arranged such that said fibers, yarn, multitude
of yarns, or fabric merge/s once the dye formulation and leave the
dye formulation for heading to said drying station and/or warm air
ventilation station without again merging the dye formulation.
[0132] Preferably, before leaving said dyeing station, said fibers,
yarn, multitude of yarns, or fabric is/are conveyed through at
least two pressure drums opposing each other and building a slit
through which said fibers, yarn, multitude of yarns, or fabric
is/are conveyed under pressure, said pressure preferably being at
least 60 bar, more preferably at least 80 bar and/or preferably
maximally 110 bar, more preferably maximally 90 bar. The amount of
dye formulation applied to said fibers, yarn, multitude of yarns,
or fabric after leaving the dyeing station preferably being at
least 80% and/or being preferably maximally 90%, more preferably
about 90% of said fiber's, yarn's, multitude of yarn's, or fabric's
mass before entering said dyeing station. The temperature of said
dye formulation can be at least 20.degree. C., preferably at least
40.degree. C., more preferably at least 50.degree. C. and/or
maximally 90.degree. C., preferably maximally 70.degree. C., more
preferably maximally 60.degree. C.
[0133] In a preferred embodiment said fibers, yarn, multitude of
yarns, or fabric is/are conveyed for preferably more than 10
seconds, more preferably for more than 50 seconds and/or preferably
for less than 90 seconds, more preferably for less than 70 seconds
through said dyeing station.
[0134] Further, in some embodiments an installation of the present
invention is complemented by a warm air ventilation station through
which said fibers, yarn, multitude of yarns, or fabric is/are
conveyed after leaving said dyeing station. Within such a warm air
ventilation station said fibers, yarn, multitude of yarns, or
fabric is/are convection heated by air, preferably by air having a
temperature of at least 60.degree. C., more preferably of at least
80.degree. C., most preferably of at least 100.degree. C., and/or
preferably of maximally 140.degree. C., more preferably of
maximally 120.degree. C., most preferably of maximally 110.degree.
C., or of about 100.degree. C. Preferably said fibers, yarn,
multitude of yarns, or fabric is/are conveyed for at least 10
seconds, or at least 20 seconds, or at least 40 seconds, or at
least 60 seconds, or at least 80 seconds, or at least 100 seconds
and/or maximally for 200 seconds, or maximally 180 seconds, or
maximally 160 seconds, or maximally 140 seconds, or maximally 120
seconds, most preferably for about 120 seconds through said warm
air ventilation station.
[0135] It has also been found advantageous to complement an
installation of the present invention with a drying station through
which said fibers, yarn, multitude of yarns, or fabric is/are
conveyed after leaving said dyeing station, more preferably after
leaving said dyeing station and after leaving a subsequent warm air
ventilation station.
[0136] Said drying station may comprise at least one, preferably at
least two, or four, or six heated drum/s and/or maximally fourteen,
more preferably maximally twelve, or ten, or eight heated drums,
the drums preferably conductively heat said fibers, yarn, multitude
of yarns, or fabric being conveyed over said drum/s by a surface
temperature, said surface temperature preferably being at least
100.degree. C., more preferably at least 120.degree. C., most
preferably at least 130.degree. C. and/or preferably maximally
140.degree. C., more preferably maximally 130.degree. C. It has
been found advantageous to bring said fibers, yarn, multitude of
yarns, or fabric in contact with the heated surface of said drum/s
for at least 10 seconds, or at least 20 seconds, or at least 40
seconds, or at least 60 seconds, or at least 80 seconds, or at
least 100 seconds and/or preferably maximally for 200 seconds, or
maximally 180 seconds, or maximally 160 seconds, or maximally 140
seconds, or maximally 120 seconds, most preferably for about 120
seconds.
[0137] While being conveyed over said heated drums, the fibers,
yarn, multitude of yarns, or fabric is/are preferably conveyed over
at least 150 degree, more preferably over at least 180 degree, most
preferably over at least 210 degree and/or preferably over
maximally 330 degree, more preferably over maximally 300 degree,
most preferably over maximally 270 or 240 degree of the heated
drum's circumference.
[0138] In a preferred embodiment said drying station comprises at
least one stenter, wherein said fibers, yarn, multitude of yarns,
or fabric is/are convection heated by air, preferably by air having
a temperature of at least 120.degree. C., more preferably of at
least 140.degree. C., and/or maximally 180.degree. C., preferably
maximally 160.degree. C., more preferably maximally 145.degree. C.,
or about 140.degree. C. Preferably said fibers, yarn, multitude of
yarns, or fabric is/are conveyed for at least 10 seconds, or at
least 20 seconds, or at least 40 seconds, or at least 60 seconds,
or at least 80 seconds, or at least 100 seconds and/or preferably
maximally for 200 seconds, or maximally 180 seconds, or maximally
160 seconds, or maximally 140 seconds, or maximally 120 seconds,
most preferably for about 120 seconds through said stenter.
[0139] Further it is preferred to supplement an installation of the
present invention by a pretreating station for pretreating
synthetic fibers, in particular polyester fibers and/or polyamide
fibers, or a yarn comprising or consisting of synthetic fibers, or
a multitude of yarns comprising or consisting of synthetic fibers,
or a fabric comprising or consisting of synthetic fibers or of
yarns comprising or consisting of synthetic fibers with one of the
aqueous solutions c1), c2), or c3), preferably by one of the
pretreating steps d1), d2) or d3), before the fibers, yarn,
multitude of yarns, or fabric is/are conveyed through said dyeing
station, preferably before the fibers, yarn, multitude of yarns, or
fabric is/are conveyed in series through a drying station (11, 211,
311) and said dyeing station, more preferably before the fibers,
yarn, multitude of yarns, or fabric is/are conveyed in series
through a ventilation station, a drying station, and said dyeing
station.
[0140] Additionally or alternatively, it is preferred to supplement
the installation for dyeing or coating a fabric comprising or
consisting of synthetic fibers or of yarns comprising or consisting
of synthetic fibers by a second installation as described in view
of the fourth aspect of the present invention, wherein the coloring
station of the second installation is a coating station, wherein
the installations are arranged in such a way that the fabric is
conveyed through said dyeing station before being conveyed through
said coating station.
[0141] Additionally or alternatively, it is preferred to supplement
an installation for dyeing or coating synthetic fibers, or a yarn
comprising or consisting of synthetic fibers, or a multitude of
yarns comprising or consisting of synthetic fibers by a second
installation as described in view of the fourth aspect of the
present invention, wherein the coloring station of the second
installation is a coating station, wherein the installations are
arranged in such a way that the fibers, yarn, multitude of yarns
are conveyed through said dyeing station before being conveyed
through said coating station. It has been found advantageous to
complement such an installation for dyeing said fibers, yarn, or
multitude of yarns by a weaving machine for weaving said fibers,
yarn, or multitude of yarns into a fabric after leaving the dyeing
station and before entering the coating station.
[0142] According to a sixth aspect of the present invention an
installation for coating, in particular for indigo-coating,
synthetic fibers, in particular polyester fibers and/or polyamide
fibers, or a yarn comprising or consisting of synthetic fibers, or
a multitude of yarns comprising or consisting of synthetic fibers,
or a fabric comprising or consisting of synthetic fibers or of
yarns comprising or consisting of synthetic fibers, is provided,
said installation comprising: [0143] X2) a coating station,
preferably a pre metering device such as a knife coater, wherein a
dye formulation comprising at least one powdered dye or a powdered
precursor dye, in particular powdered leuko dye, and/or at least
one aqueous dye formulation or at least one aqueous precursor dye
formulation, in particular an alkaline aqueous leuko dye
formulation, is applied to said fibers, yarn, multitude of yarns,
or fabric, in particular to said fabric, being conveyed through
said coating station.
[0144] In a preferred embodiment said coating station comprises at
least one post-metering device such as a knife coater, in
particular in the arrangement of a floating knife, or of a knife
over blanket, or of a knife over roll. In a less preferred
embodiment said coating station comprises at least one, preferably
at least three, more preferably at least six and/or preferably
maximally twelve pre-metering devices such as roll coaters, in
particular such as mayer rod coaters, or direct roll coaters, or
gravure coaters.
[0145] Said coating station can also comprise a combination of said
pre- and post-metering devices
[0146] It has also been found advantageous to complement an
installation of the present invention by a drying station through
which said fibers, yarn, multitude of yarns, or fabric is/are
conveyed after leaving said coating station.
[0147] Said drying station may comprise at least one, preferably at
least two, or four, or six heated drum/s and/or preferably
maximally fourteen, more preferably maximally twelve, or ten, or
eight heated drums, the drums preferably conductively heat said
fibers, yarn, multitude of yarns, or fabric being conveyed over
said drum/s by a surface temperature, said surface temperature
preferably being at least 100.degree. C., more preferably at least
120.degree. C., most preferably at least 130.degree. C. and/or
preferably maximally 140.degree. C., more preferably maximally
130.degree. C. It has been found advantageous to bring said fibers,
yarn, multitude of yarns, or fabric in contact with the heated
surface of said drum/s for at least 10 seconds, or at least 20
seconds, or at least 40 seconds, or at least 60 seconds, or at
least 80 seconds, or at least 100 seconds and/or preferably
maximally for 200 seconds, or maximally 180 seconds, or maximally
160 seconds, or maximally 140 seconds, or maximally 120 seconds,
most preferably for about 120 seconds.
[0148] Further an installation of the present invention can be
complemented by a softening station through which said fibers,
yarn, multitude of yarns, or fabric can be conveyed after being
coated and dried. A foulard can be used as softening station in
which a softening agent, in particular a nano-silicone-based
softening agent, can be applied to said fibers, yarn, multitude of
yarns, or fabric for softening said fibers, yarn, multitude of
yarns, or fabric.
[0149] While being conveyed over said heated drums, the fibers,
yarn, multitude of yarns, or fabric is/are preferably conveyed over
at least 150 degree, more preferably over at least 180 degree, most
preferably over at least 210 degree and/or preferably over
maximally 330 degree, more preferably over maximally 300 degree,
most preferably over maximally 270 or 240 degree of the heated
drum's circumference.
[0150] In a preferred embodiment said drying station comprises at
least one stenter, wherein said fibers, yarn, multitude of yarns,
or fabric is/are convection heated by air, preferably by air having
a temperature of at least 120.degree. C., more preferably of at
least 140.degree. C., and/or preferably maximally 180.degree. C.,
more preferably maximally 160.degree. C., most preferably maximally
145.degree. C., or about 140.degree. C.
[0151] Preferably said fibers, yarn, multitude of yarns, or fabric
is/are conveyed for at least 10 seconds, or at least 20 seconds, or
at least 40 seconds, or at least 60 seconds, or at least 80
seconds, or at least 100 seconds and/or preferably maximally for
200 seconds, or maximally 180 seconds, or maximally 160 seconds, or
maximally 140 seconds, or maximally 120 seconds, most preferably
for about 120 seconds through said stenter.
[0152] Further, it is preferred to supplement an installation of
the present invention by a pretreating station for pretreating
synthetic fibers, in particular polyester fibers and/or polyamide
fibers, or a yarn comprising or consisting of synthetic fibers, or
a multitude of yarns comprising or consisting of synthetic fibers,
or a fabric comprising or consisting of synthetic fibers or of
yarns comprising or consisting of synthetic fibers with one of the
aqueous solutions c1), c2), or c3), preferably by one of the
pretreating steps d1), d2) or d3), before said fibers, yarn,
multitude of yarns, or fabric is/are conveyed through said coating
station, preferably before said fibers, yarn, multitude of yarns,
or fabric is/are conveyed in series through a drying station and
said coating station, more preferably before said fibers, yarn,
multitude of yarns, or fabric is/are conveyed in sequence through a
ventilation station, a drying station, and said coating
station.
[0153] Additionally or alternatively, it is preferred to supplement
the installation for dyeing or coating a fabric comprising or
consisting of synthetic fibers or of yarns comprising or consisting
of synthetic fibers by a second installation as described in view
of the fourth or fifth aspect of the present invention, wherein the
coloring station of the second installation is a dyeing station,
wherein the installations are arranged in such a way that the
fabric is conveyed through said dyeing station before being
conveyed through said coating station.
[0154] Additionally or alternatively, it is preferred to supplement
the installation for dyeing or coating synthetic fibers, or a yarn
comprising or consisting of synthetic fibers, or a multitude of
yarns comprising or consisting of synthetic fibers by a second
installation as described in view of the fourth or fifth aspect of
the present invention, wherein the coloring station of the second
installation is a dyeing station, wherein the installations are
arranged in such a way that the fibers, yarn, or multitude of yarns
are conveyed through said dyeing station before being conveyed
through said coating station. It has been found advantageous to
complement such an installation for dyeing fibers, yarn, or
multitude of yarns by a weaving machine for weaving said fibers,
yarn, or multitude yarns into a fabric after leaving the dyeing
station and before entering the coating station.
[0155] According to a seventh aspect of the present invention an
installation for dyeing or coating, in particular for indigo-dyeing
or indigo-coating, synthetic fibers, in particular polyester fibers
and/or polyamide fibers, or a yarn comprising or consisting of
synthetic fibers, or a multitude of yarns comprising or consisting
of synthetic fibers, or a fabric comprising or consisting of
synthetic fibers or of yarns comprising or consisting of synthetic
fibers, is provided, said installation comprising: [0156] x) a
coloring station, in particular a coating station or a dyeing
station, wherein a dye formulation comprising at least one powdered
dye or a powdered precursor dye, in particular powdered leuko dye,
and/or at least one aqueous dye formulation or at least one aqueous
precursor dye formulation, in particular an alkaline aqueous leuko
dye formulation, is applied to said fibers, yarn, multitude of
yarns, or fabric being conveyed through said coloring station, and
[0157] Z1) a thermal fixation station, through which said fibers,
yarn, multitude of yarns, or fabric applied with said dye
formulation is/are conveyed after leaving the coloring station, for
fixing the applied dye formulation to said fibers, yarn, multitude
of yarns, or fabric by heating said fibers, yarn, multitude of
yarns, or fabric, and/or [0158] Z2) at least one, preferably 3,
chemical fixation station/s, through which said fibers, yarn,
multitude of yarns, or fabric applied with said dye formulation
is/are conveyed after leaving the coloring station, wherein an
aqueous formulation containing at least one condensation product of
an aliphatic polyamine and epihalohydrine, in particular
epichlorohydrine, is applied to said fibers, yarn, multitude of
yarns, or fabric, for fixing the applied dye formulation to said
fibers, yarn, multitude of yarns, or fabric.
[0159] In a preferred embodiment said thermal fixation station
comprises a stenter, wherein said fibers, yarn, multitude of yarns,
or fabric is/are convection heated by air, preferably by air having
a temperature of at least 130.degree. C., more preferably of at
least 150.degree. C., most preferably of at least 170.degree. C.
and/or preferably maximally 220.degree. C., more preferably
maximally 200.degree. C., most preferably maximally 180.degree.
C.
[0160] It has been found to be advantageous to convey said fibers,
yarn, multitude of yarns, or fabric for preferably at least one
minute, more preferably for at least three minutes, most preferably
for at least five minutes and/or preferably for maximally fifteen
minutes, more preferably for maximally ten minutes, most preferably
for maximally five minutes through said thermal fixation station,
in particular through said stenter.
[0161] In a preferred embodiment the aqueous formulation in the at
least one chemical fixation station has a temperature of at least
40.degree. C., preferably of at least 55.degree. C. and/or of
maximally 95.degree. C., preferably of maximally 85.degree. C. It
has been found advantageous to convey said fibers, yarn, multitude
of yarns, or fabric preferably for at least 10 seconds, more
preferably for at least 30 seconds and/or preferably for maximally
60 seconds, more preferably maximally 45 seconds through said
chemical fixation station. Preferably, the amount of said aqueous
formulation picked up within the chemical fixation is between 2 and
4%, preferably about 3% of the fiber's, yarn's, multitude of
yarn's, or fabric's mass before entering the chemical fixation
station.
[0162] Complementing a coloring installation, in particular when
dyeing polyester with an indigo dye formulation as described above,
with a fixation station leads to an increased dyeing or coating
efficiency. With an installations being designed according to the
seventh aspect of the invention, dye stuff savings of about 20%
were achieved.
[0163] It has been found advantageous to supplement an installation
according to the seventh aspect of the present invention by a warm
air ventilation station or by a drying station, preferably in
sequence by a warm air ventilation station and a drying station,
through which the fibers, yarn, multitude of yarns, or fabric
is/are conveyed after leaving the coloring station and before
entering the fixation station. As warm air ventilation station
and/or as drying station, the warm air ventilation station and the
drying stations being described with respect to the fifth and
eights aspect of the present invention can be used.
[0164] In particular in order to reduce or eliminate the shrinking
properties of the dyed or coated fibers, yarn, multitude of yarns,
or fabric an installation of the present invention can further
comprise a sanforizing station, through which said fibers, yarn,
multitude of yarns, or fabric is/are conveyed after leaving the
thermal fixation station and/or after leaving the chemical fixation
station.
[0165] Within an installation of the present invention fibers,
yarn, multitude of yarns, or fabric is/are preferably conveyed with
a conveying speed between 5 and 50 m/min, preferably between 5 and
15 m/min or between 15 and 30 m/min or between 30 and 50 m/min.
[0166] An exemplary pretreating station is a foulard, also known as
padding machine, wherein at least one of the aqueous solutions c1),
c2) or c3) is applied to said fibers, yarn, multitude of yarns, or
fabric by one of the pretreating steps d1), d2) or d3). Preferably
before leaving said pretreating station, said fibers, yarn,
multitude of yarns, or fabric is/are conveyed through at least two
pressure drums opposing each other and building a slit through
which the textile is conveyed under pressure, said pressure
preferably being greater than 60 bar, more preferably greater than
80 bar and/or lower than 110 bar, preferably lower than 90 bar. The
temperature of the aqueous solutions c1), c2) or c3) is preferably
at least 20.degree. C., more preferably at least 30.degree. C.
and/or maximally 50.degree. C., preferably maximally 40.degree. C.
It has been found that the aforementioned conditions, in particular
the pressure conditions, lead to a preferred amount of aqueous
solution, in particular c1), c2) or c3), being applied to the
fibers, yarn, multitude of yarns, fabric. A preferred amount of
aqueous solution applied to said fibers, yarn, multitude of yarns,
or fabric after leaving the pretreating station is more than 70%,
more preferably more than 80%, and/or less than 95%, or less than
90%, or less than 85%, most preferably about 90% of said fiber's,
yarn's, multitude of yarns', or fabric's mass before entering the
pretreating station.
[0167] In some embodiments of the present invention, in particular
for pretreating with c1), the installation is complemented with a
standby station for keeping the pretreated fibers, yarn, multitude
of yarns, or fabric for a defined time under defined conditions
after leaving the pretreating station. It has been found
advantageous to keep the pretreated fibers, yarn, multitude of
yarns, or fabric for at least 14 hours, more preferably for at
least 18 hours, most preferably for at least 21 hours, and/or
maximally for 36 hours, more preferably for maximally 27 hours,
most preferably for maximally 24 hours, at room temperature, or at
a temperature of at least 20.degree. C., preferably at least
30.degree. C., and/or at maximally 60.degree. C., preferably
maximally 50.degree. C., most preferably about 40.degree. C. The
aforementioned conditions have been found by experiments and cause,
in particular when pretreated with c1), an increased amount of
pretreating elements, in particular lipase, being bound to the
fibers, yarn, multitude of yarns, or fabric, and/or increased
binding forces between the pretreating elements and the fibers,
yarn, multitude of yarns, or fabric without causing too high
manufacturing costs in view of process time, storage costs and
energy costs.
[0168] It has been found advantageous in some embodiments of the
present invention, in particular when pretreating with c3), to
complement the installation with a steaming station. The steaming
station is preferably located behind the pretreating station for
subjecting fibers, yarn, multitude of yarns, or fabric with water
steam, in particular with saturated steam, after leaving the
pretreating station. Preferred conditions regarding temperature of
the water steam and the time of subjecting the fibers, yarn,
multitude of yarns, or fabric with said steam have been discussed
before.
[0169] In some embodiments of the present invention, in particular
for pretreating with c1) or c3), the installation is complemented
with a washing station. The washing station is preferably located
behind the pretreating station, and/or behind the standby station,
and/or behind the steaming station for washing the fibers, yarn,
multitude of yarns, or fabric after they passed the pretreating
station, and/or the standby station or the steaming station. The
washing station preferably comprises a multi-vat-washing machine
for washing the fibers, yarn, multitude of yarns, or fabric under
different conditions, such as the washing solution, the temperature
of the washing solution, and the time for which the fibers, yarn,
multitude of yarns, or fabric is/are conducted with said washing
solution. The multi-vat washing machine preferably comprises four,
or six, or eight, or ten washing vats. Preferably, each washing vat
comprises an arrangement of rotating drums conveying the fibers,
yarn, multitude of yarns, or fabric such that they merge and leave
the washing solution several times, preferably four times, or five
times, or six times, or seven times, or eight times. Further to
that the washing vats can comprise pressure drums opposing each
other and building a slit through which said fibers, yarn,
multitude of yarns, or fabric is/are conveyed under pressure before
merging and/or after leaving said washing solution. In case off an
eight-vat washing machine, the preferred temperature off the
washing solutions is between 30 and 40.degree. C. in the first and
second washing vat, between 50 and 60.degree. C. in the third and
fourth washing vat, between 90 and 95.degree. C. in the fifth and
sixth washing vat, and/or between 55 and 70.degree. C. in the
seventh and eight washing vat.
[0170] The aqueous dye formulation, in particular the alkaline
aqueous leuko dye formulation in a coating station, preferably has
a viscosity in the range from 10 to 70 Dpas, in particular in the
range from 30 to 60 Dpas, determined at 23.+-.5.degree. C.,
preferably at 23.+-.2.5.degree. C., more preferably at
23.+-.1.5.degree. C., most preferably at 23.+-.0.5.degree. C. This
viscosity range is preferred since the viscosity is low enough such
that the aqueous dye formulation can easily be applied to fibers,
yarn, multitude of yarns, or fabric, in particular to fabric, but
high enough to keep the dye formulation on said fibers, yarn,
multitude of yarns, and/or fabric, and that said fibers, yarn,
multitude of yarns, or fabric pick up enough dye formulation.
Within a coating station, the dye formulation is preferably applied
by at least one knife coater to said fibers, yarn, multitude of
yarns, and/or fabric which is conveyed in warp direction through
the coating station.
[0171] In a preferred embodiment of the present invention the
installation is supplemented by a steaming station that is located
behind the coloring station. In the steaming station the fibers,
yarn, multitude of yarns, or fabric is/are subjected to water
steam, particularly saturated steam. The water steam preferably has
a temperature in the range from 95 to 110.degree. C., and in
particular in the range from 98 to 102.degree. C. The fibers, yarn,
multitude of yarns, or fabric is/are preferably subjected for one
to ten minutes, more preferably for two to four minutes, with said
water steam. In case, the coloring installation is supplemented
with a steaming station, it is advantageous to supplement the
installation with a washing station, in particular a
multi-vat-washing machine, more particular an eight-vat-washing
machine through which the fibers, yarn, multitude of yarns, or
fabric can be conveyed after leaving the steaming machine. The
temperatures of the washing solution used in the single vats of a
multi-vat-washing machine is preferably in the range from 25 to
98.degree. C., in particular in the range from 30 to 95.degree.
C.
[0172] It is also possible to alternatively or additionally
supplement the installation with a washing machine through which
the fibers, yarn, multitude of yarns, or fabric is/are conveyed
after leaving the coloring station.
[0173] According to a rather suitable embodiment of the present
invention the installation can be supplemented by a drying station,
such as an arrangement of heated drums or a stenter, through which
the fibers, yarn, multitude of yarns, or fabric is/are conveyed
after they left the steaming station and/or the washing station. In
such a drying station the temperature of the hot air or the surface
temperature of the heated drums is preferably in the range from 98
to 130.degree. C., in particular in the range from 100 to
120.degree. C. The fibers, yarn, multitude of yarns, or fabric
is/are preferably conveyed over a time period, in particular in the
range from 30 seconds to 10 minutes, more in particular in the
range from 1 to 3 minutes through said drying station.
[0174] The above described installations are particular
advantageous for dyeing the synthetic fibers, yarns, and fabric, in
particular polyester fibers, yarns, and fabric, as described above
with an indigo or leuko-indigo dye as described above.
[0175] The above described installations are designed to conduct
the above described process, and the above described process is
developed to be used in the above described installations.
[0176] The fibers, yarn, plurality of yarns, and fabric obtained by
dyeing or coating them with an installation of the present
invention and/or with a process of the present invention, exhibit
excellent crocking properties as well as a sufficient tensile
strength and tear resistance. Particular good results can be
achieved by conducting the process of the present invention with an
installation of the present invention.
[0177] The eighth aspect of the invention present invention relates
to dyed and/or coated synthetic fibers, in particular polyester
fibers and/or polyamide fibers, or to a yarn comprising or
consisting of synthetic fibers, or to a multitude of yarns
comprising or consisting of synthetic fibers, or to a fabric
comprising or consisting of synthetic fibers or of yarns comprising
or consisting of synthetic fibers. Said fibers are dyed or coated
with a dye formulation comprising at least one powdered indigo dye
or a powdered precursor indigo dye, and/or with at least one
aqueous indigo dye formulation or at least one aqueous precursor
indigo dye formulation, in particular an alkaline aqueous
leuko-indigo dye formulation. These fibers have a dry rubbing
fastness in the range from 1.0 to 5.0, preferably in the range from
2.0 to 4.0, most preferably in the range from 2.5 to 3.5 and/or a
wet rubbing fastness in the range from 0.5 to 3.0, preferably in
the range from 1.0 to 2.5, more preferably in the range from 1.5 to
2.0. Such fibers, yarn, multitude of yarns, or fabric can for
example be obtained by dyeing and/or coating said fibers, yarn,
multitude of yarns, or fabric by the above described installations
and/or by the above described process. The wet rubbing fastness is
determined by ISO 105-X12:2001(E). The dry rubbing fastness is
determined by ISO 105-X12:2001(E).
[0178] Particularly good results regarding the eighth aspect of the
present invention are achieved when the fibers, yarn, multitude of
yarns, and fabric is/are pretreated with at least one lipase enzyme
as described above or with an aqueous system comprising nano-sized
polyurethane particles as described above before being dyed and/or
coated.
[0179] With the present invention has been surprisingly found how
to arrive to dyed synthetic fibers, yarn, multitude of yarns, and
fabric which essentially exhibit the same fading characteristics as
dyed cotton fibers, yarn, plurality of yarns, and fabric as used
for conventional denim fabrics. Thus, it is now possible to
reliably prepare for example colored polyester fibers yarn,
plurality of yarns, and fabric and/or polyamide fibers yarn,
plurality of yarns, and fabric which can be used for the
manufacture of denim-like fabrics.
[0180] A schematic view of an installation for dyeing synthetic
fibers, yarn, multitude of yarns, or fabric is shown in FIG. 2
illustrating schematically the fourth, fifth, and seventh aspect of
the present invention and differences as well as advantages
compared to a conventional installation as schematically shown in
FIG. 1. In the installation shown in FIG. 2 fibers, yarn, multitude
of yarns, or fabric is/are conveyed through several stations by
rotating drums starting with an accumulator station 1, followed in
series by a calender 3, a pretreating station 15, a ventilation
station 7, a drying station, a dyeing station 19, a warm air
ventilation station 117, a drying station 11, fixation stations 17,
in particular three chemical fixation stations 417, a drying
station 11, and ending with a sizing station 13.
[0181] A drying station 11 being located before, in particular
directly before the dyeing station 19 or the not shown coating
station (39) illustrates the fourth aspect of the present
invention. Contrary to the schematically shown conventional
installation in FIG. 1, the upstream drying station 11 causes that
dried fibers, yarn, multitude of yarns, or fabric enter/s the
dyeing station 19. This leads to a higher amount of powdered dye
and/or aqueous liquid dye formulation being picked up by the
fibers, yarn, multitude of yarns, or fabric in the dyeing station
19. A higher amount of powdered dye and/or aqueous liquid dye
formulation being picked up increases the amount of dye that can
theoretically be fixed to the fibers and thereby the achievable
colorfulness, in particular the chroma and/or saturation, of the
colored fibers, yarn, multitude of yarns, or fabric.
[0182] In FIG. 2 a single dyeing station 19, followed by a warm air
ventilation station 117 illustrates the fifth aspect of the present
invention. Compared to a conventional installation as shown in FIG.
1, this leads to a reduced number of stations and thus to a reduced
complexity of the installation which leads to lower manufacturing
costs. Further to that, the use of a single dyeing station 19
surprisingly enables, in particular in combination with any of the
first to the third, and/or of the fourth, and/or of the seventh
aspect of the present invention, an increased reproducibility and
precision in adjusting the amount of dye being picked up in the
dyeing station 19, and/or in adjusting the color fastness, in
particular the dry rubbing fastness, and/or the wet rubbing
fastness, and/or the light fastness. Said advantages have been
achieved when dyeing fibers, a yarn, a multitude of yarns, or a
fabric.
[0183] As shown in FIG. 2, a single dyeing station 19 can be a
dyeing vat 29 substantially filled with an aqueous dye formulation
through which the fibers, yarn, multitude of yarns, or fabric
is/are conveyed. The fibers, yarn, multitude of yarns, or fabric
is/are conveyed in series over five rotating drums 123 within the
aqueous dye formulation, through two pressure drums 515 within the
aqueous dye formulation, over five rotating drums 123 within the
aqueous dye formulation, and through two pressure drums 415 outside
of the dyeing vat 29 and outside of the aqueous dye formulation.
The liquid level in the dyeing vat 29 is exemplary shown by the
meandering line 25.
[0184] The seventh aspect of the present invention is illustrated
by the dash lined box in FIG. 2 indicating a fixation station 17.
One embodiment of such a fixation station 17 is illustrated within
the dash lined box as a cascade of three chemical fixation stations
417, through which the fibers, yarn, multitude of yarns, or fabric
is/are conveyed after leaving the dyeing station 19 or the not
shown coating station 39. These chemical fixation stations comprise
vats filled with an aqueous formulation containing at least one
condensation product of an aliphatic polyamine and epihalohydrine,
in particular epichlorohydrine, instead of a washing solution. In
such a chemical fixation station, the fibers, yarn, multitude of
yarns, or fabric is/are conveyed by five rotating through said
aqueous solution, and through two pressure drums opposing each
other and building a slit when leaving the chemical fixation
stations.
[0185] However in another embodiment of the present invention, the
fixation station can be a thermal fixation station 217, in
particular a stenter for which an example is shown in FIG. 10.
Complementing a coloring installation with a fixation station 17
enables, in particular in combination with any of the first to the
third, and/or of the fourth, and/or of the fifth or sixth aspect of
the present invention, an increased reproducibility and precision
in adjusting the color fastness, in particular the dry rubbing
fastness, and/or the wet rubbing fastness, and/or the light
fastness.
[0186] The sixth and seventh aspect of the present invention is
illustrated in FIG. 3. The sixth aspect of the present invention
relates to the use of a coating station 39 instead of the use of a
cascade of dyeing stations 19 and ventilation stations 7 as shown
in FIG. 1. In FIG. 3, a fabric is winded from a spool 21, conveyed
over rotating drums 23 in sequence through a coating station 39, a
drying station 11 in form of a stenter 311, and winded again on a
spool 21. Compared to a conventional installation as shown in FIG.
1, the use of a coating station 39 instead of a cascade of dyeing
stations 19 and ventilation stations leads to a reduced number of
stations and thus to a reduced complexity of the installation which
leads to lower manufacturing costs. Further to that, the use of a
coating station 39 surprisingly enables, in particular in
combination with any of the first to the third, and/or of the
fourth, and/or of the seventh aspect of the present invention, an
increased reproducibility and precision in adjusting the amount of
dye being picked up in the coating station 39, and/or in adjusting
the color fastness, in particular the dry rubbing fastness, and/or
the wet rubbing fastness, and/or the light fastness. Said
advantages have been achieved when coating a fabric.
[0187] As indicated by the upper arrow in FIG. 3, the coated and
dried fabric is transported, in particular winded on a spool 21, to
a thermal fixation station 311 (seventh aspect of the present
invention) where the fabric is winded from said spool, conveyed
through a thermal fixation station 311, and winded again on a spool
21. Alternatively or additionally to the thermal fixation station
311, the coated and dried fabric can also be conveyed through
chemical fixation stations 417 as exemplary shown in FIG. 2. As
indicated by the dash lined box in FIG. 3, the coated and dried
fabric can be conveyed through a softening station 37 before being
conveyed through the thermal fixation station 311 and/or the
chemical fixation stations 417. As softening station 37 a foulard
43 can be used in which a softening agent, in particular a
nano-silicone-based softening agent, can be applied to the fabric
to soften said fabric.
[0188] As indicated by the lower arrow in FIG. 3, the coated,
dried, optionally softened, and fixed fabric can be transported, in
particular winded on a spool 21, to a sanforizing station 45 in
which the fabric is again winded from a spool, conveyed through the
sanforizing station 45 and winded again on a spool. The fabric is
conveyed through the sanforizing station to reduce or eliminate the
shrinking properties of the coated fabric. The coating station 39
and the drying station 11, 311 shown in FIG. 3 are described in
more detail in FIG. 9. The softening station 37 can be similar or
equal to the foulards described in detail as pretreating station 15
in FIG. 4 and FIG. 7. An exemplary thermal fixation station 311 is
described in more detail in FIG. 10. An example for a sanforizing
station is described in more detail in FIG. 12.
[0189] FIG. 4 illustrates an exemplary pretreating station 15 in
form of a foulard, also known as padding machine. Fibers, yarn,
multitude of yarns, or fabric become/s winded from a spool 21,
conveyed over rotating drums through the pretreating station 15,
and winded again on a spool 21. The pretreating station 21
comprises a vat 215 filled with an aqueous solution, in particular
any of the aqueous solutions c1) to c3), through which the fibers,
yarn, multitude of yarns, or fabric is/are conveyed over four
rotating drums 223 being located in the aqueous solution. Further
to that the pretreating station comprises two pressure drums 414
opposing each other and forming a slit through which the fibers,
yarn, multitude of yarns, or fabric is/are conveyed after leaving
the vat 215 filled with the aqueous solution.
[0190] FIG. 5 illustrates six exemplary standby stations 27 in the
particular form of rotating stations. On said rotating stations
fibers, yarn, multitude of yarns, or fabric that is/are winded on a
spool 21 become rotated on a rotating table 227.
[0191] FIG. 6 illustrates fibers, yarn, multitude of yarns, or
fabric being winded from a spool 21, conveyed through an exemplary
washing station 5 in form of a multi-vat washing machine 105,
followed by an exemplary drying station 11 in the particular form
of ten heated drums 211, and winded again on a spool 11 after
having passed the last heated drum 211. The multi-vat washing
machine 105 in FIG. 6 comprises six washing vats 205. Each washing
vat 205 comprises rotating drums 25 and pressure drums 415 arranged
in a cascade such that fibers, yarn, multitude of yarns, or fabric
merge/s and leave the washing solution 305 five to six times in
each washing vat. When leaving the first, the third, the fifth, and
the sixth washing vat 205 the fibers, yarn, multitude of yarns, or
fabric is/are conveyed through pressure drums 405 opposing each
other and building a slit.
[0192] An installation comprising in serious the stations
illustrated in FIG. 4, FIG. 5, and FIG. 6 followed by a coloring
station 9 is preferably used when the fibers, yarn, multitude of
yarns, or fabric is/are pretreated with the aqueous solution c1). A
particular advantage regarding the reproducibility and precision in
adjusting the color fastness results from the discontinuous process
path allowing, contrary to the conventional continuous dyeing
process shown in FIG. 1, to adjust process parameters of each
station independently and to perform quality checks after each
station. In addition, an advantage can be derived from the
discontinuous process, namely that the production capacity of each
station can be exploited independent from the others. This can
become very relevant in view of long standby times between 14 and
36 hours in the standby station 27.
[0193] FIG. 7 illustrates a fabric being folded in a movable
container 121 from which the fabric is conveyed by rotating drums
23 in series through a pretreating station 15, a drying station in
form of a stenter 311, and is winded again on a spool 21. For a
better readability, machinery parts that has already been described
before are designated with the same reference signs. The
pretreating station 15 differs from the pretreating station
illustrated in FIG. 4 by the number of rotating drums 223 in the
pretreating vat 215, namely two. As can be seen in FIG. 7, instead
of conveying the fabric from a movable container 121, the fabric
can also be winded from a spool 21. The stenter 311 is separated in
stenter sections 511 aligned in a row, wherein each stenter section
511 comprises an air blowing module 611 to provide a consistent
flow of hot air in each stenter section 511. Four of these stenter
sections 511 are illustrated in FIG. 7. However the cutting line C
indicates that more than four stenter sections 511, for example
five, six, eight, nine, ten, eleven, or twelve, can be used.
[0194] An installation comprising in serious a pretreating station
15, a drying station in form of a stenter 311, and a coloring
station 9 is preferably used when fibers, a yarns, a multitude of
yarns, or a fabric is/are pretreated with c2). One advantage of
this installation, in particular in combination with pretreatment
d2) is the short processing time, and the precision that can be
achieved regarding the moisture content of the fibers, yarn,
multitude of yarns, or fabric when leaving the stenter 311 since
the temperature and the flow of heated air can be adjusted for each
stenter section 411 separately.
[0195] FIG. 8 shows an installation, wherein fibers, yarn,
multitude of yarns, or fabric is/are winded from a spool 21 and
conveyed in series through three pretreating stations 15, wherein
the second pretreating station is equal to the pretreating station
shown in FIG. 4, a steaming station 31, a washing vat 205 for
prewashing before entering the subsequent multi-vat washing machine
105, a drying station 11 in form of ten heated drums 211, and
winded again on a spool 21. For a better readability machinery
parts that have already been described before are designated with
the same reference signs. In the first and third pretreating
station 15 shown in FIG. 8 only one rotating drum 223 is located in
the pretreating vat 215. The fibers, yarn, multitude of yarns, or
fabric is/are not conveyed through pressure drums when leaving the
first pretreating station 15. The steaming station 31 consists of
three steaming station sections 131 aligned in a row, wherein the
fibers, yarn, multitude of yarns, or fabric is/are conveyed over
eight rotating drums 23 in each steaming station section 131 while
being subjected with water steam, in particular with saturated
steam. In the washing vat 205 for prewashing between steaming
station 31 and multi-vat washing station 105, the fibers, yarn,
multitude of yarns, or fabric is/are conveyed over one drum within
the washing solution 305 and through pressure drums 415 before
heading to the multi-vat washing machine. The multi-vat washing
machine 105 in FIG. 8 is similar to that shown in FIG. 6. One
difference is the number of washing vats 205 through which the
fibers, yarn, multitude of yarns, or fabric is/are conveyed, namely
four. However the multi-vat washing machine can also comprise more
washing vats 205, such as five, six, seven, eight, nine or ten
washing vats 205. Another difference is that in the multi-vat
washing 105 shown in FIG. 8 the fibers, yarn, multitude of yarns,
or fabric is/are conveyed through pressure drums 415 each time when
leaving a washing vat 205.
[0196] An installation comprising in serious one to three
pretreating stations 15, a steaming station 31, potentially a
washing vat 205 for prewashing, a multi-vat washing machine 105, a
drying station 11 in form of heated drums 211, and a coloring
station 9 is preferably used when the fibers, yarn, multitude of
yarns, or fabric is/are pretreated with c3). The use of three
independently adjustable steaming station sections 131 regarding
steam temperature and/or steam saturation, allows to precisely and
reproducibly softening the fibers, yarn, multitude of yarns, or
fabric. The use of an independently adjustable pre washing vat 205
regarding the composition of the washing solution 305 and/or the
temperature of the washing solution allows to precisely and
reproducibly control the peeling process. Alternatively or in
addition, the use of a multi-vat washing machine 105 comprising
four to ten, preferably eight, independently adjustable washing
vats 205 regarding washing solution 305 and temperature of the
washing solutions allows to precisely and reproducibly control the
peeling process. A properly controlled peeling process is of high
importance since peeling increases on one hand the surface of
fibers, yarn, multitude of yarns, or fabric, which increase/s the
maximum amount of color that can be picked up by fibers, yarn,
multitude of yarns, or fabric, and/or the amount of color that is
picked up when fibers, yarn, multitude of yarns, or fabric is/are
conveyed under certain process parameters through a coloring
station 9. However on the other hand, peeling lowers the tensile
strength of fibers, yarn, multitude of yarns, or fabric.
[0197] With an arrangement of stations as described and exemplary
shown in FIG. 8, preferably in combination with the pretreating
step d3) as described above, fibers, yarn, multitude of yarns, or
fabric with a tensile strength can be obtained which is less than
the tensile strength of said fibers prior to the pretreatment step,
but not more than 20% less the tensile strength of said fibers
prior to the pretreatment step and more preferably not more than
10% less the tensile strength of said fibers prior to the
pretreatment step, measured in each case at 23.+-.5.degree. C.,
preferably at 23.+-.2.5.degree. C., more preferably at
23.+-.1.5.degree. C., most preferably at 23.+-.0.5.degree. C.
[0198] The steaming station 31 shown in FIG. 8 can also be used to
subject the fibers, yarn, multitude of yarns, or fabric after
leaving the coloring station 9 with water steam, in particular with
saturated water steam. In a preferred embodiment the steaming
station 31 is followed by a multi-vat washing machine 105. Said
multi-vat washing machine preferably comprises eight washing vats
405. Preferably used washing vats 405 and preferred arrangements of
washing vats 405 are shown in FIG. 6 and FIG. 8. Features and
advantages described with respect to the use a multi-vat washing
machines before the fibers, yarn, multitude of yarns, or fabric
is/are conveyed through the coloring station 9 also applies to the
use of a multi-vat washing machine after leaving the coloring
station 9 and a subsequent steaming station 31. Alternatively or
additionally a washing vat 415 can also be arranged directly behind
the coloring station, such that colored fibers, yarns, or fabric
can be subjected to a washing step after leaving the coloring
station 9. Further a drying station 11, 211, 311 as exemplary shown
and described in FIG. 6, FIG. 7, and FIG. 8 can be arranged behind
the multi-vat washing machine 105 or behind a single washing vat,
such that the fibers, yarn, multitude of yarns, or fabric can be
subjected to a drying step after the washing step. Such a drying
station 11 can for example be realized by heated drums 211, over
which the fibers, yarn, multitude of yarns, or fabric is/are
conveyed as shown in FIG. 6 and FIG. 8, or by a stenter 311 as
exemplary shown in FIG. 7, FIG. 9, and FIG. 10.
[0199] FIG. 9 shows an installation, wherein a fabric is winded
from a spool 21, conveyed over rotating drums 23 in sequence
through a coating station 39, a drying station 11 in form of a
stenter 311, and winded again on a spool 21. For a better
readability machinery parts that has already been described before
are designated with the same reference signs. The coating station
39 comprises eight roll coaters 139 arranged adjacent to each
other. The use of a coating station 39 consisting of several pre-
and/or post-metering devices leads to a significant reduction of
the required room capacity for an installation for dyeing or
coating synthetic fabrics. Further to that, it has surprisingly
been found that compared to a cascade of dyeing stations and
ventilation stations as shown in FIG. 1, a coating station 39
consisting of several pre- and/or post-metering devices arranged
adjacent to each other increases the reproducibility and precision
in adjusting the amount of color being picked up by the fabric. The
stenter 311 comprises three stenter sections 411, wherein each of
the sections becomes heated separately. In the stenter 311 shown in
FIG. 9, rotating drums are arranged in such a way that fibers,
yarn, multitude of yarns, or fabric is/are conveyed three times
through the three stenter sections 411. With such a stenter 311 the
required room capacity for an installation for dyeing or coating
fabrics can be reduced.
[0200] Using a coating station 39 as coloring station as shown in
FIG. 9 illustrates the eight aspect of the present invention and is
preferably used in combination with any of the first to the third,
and/or with the fourth, and/or the seventh aspect of the present
invention.
[0201] In FIG. 10 a thermal fixation station 217 in form of third
stenter 311 is shown which comprises ten stenter sections 411,
wherein the ten stenter sections 411 are separated in five groups
each containing two stenter sections 411 that are arranged adjacent
to each other, wherein each group of stenter sections 411 is
followed by an air ventilation section 611. Hot air which is blown
into the stenter sections 411 by the blowing modules 511 passes the
fibers, yarn, multitude of yarns, or fabric that is/are conveyed
through the thermal fixation station 217 and leaves the stenter 311
through the air ventilation sections 611.
[0202] Supplementing an installation for dyeing or coating
synthetic fibers, yarn, multitude of yarns, or fabric with a
thermal fixation station 217 as exemplary shown in FIG. 10 that is
located behind a coloring station 9, in particular in sequence
behind a coloring station 9 and a drying station 11, illustrates
one embodiment of the seventh aspect of the present invention and
is preferably used in combination with any of the first to the
third, and/or with the fourth, and/or the fifth or sixth aspect of
the present invention.
[0203] It has to be clear that each of the stenters 311 shown in
FIG. 7, FIG. 9, and FIG. 10 can either be used as a drying station
11 or as thermal fixation station 217.
[0204] FIG. 11 schematically shows a coloring installation that is
preferably used, when the fibers, yarn, multitude of yarns, or
fabric is/are subjected to an intermediate treatment with at least
one aqueous electrolyte solution containing at least one cationic
electrolyte, in particular at least one cationic polyelectrolyte,
after the fibers, yarn, multitude of yarns, or fabric have/has been
dyed and optionally subsequently washed. Such an installation
preferably comprises in series a first dyeing station 19,
optionally a ventilation station 7, a washing station 5, optionally
a ventilation station 7, and an electrolyte treatment station 33.
It has been found advantages to supplement such an installation
with further dyeing stations 19, washing stations 5, and optionally
ventilation stations 7. In a preferred embodiment as indicated in
FIG. 11, the electrolyte treatment station 33 is followed
downstream in serious optionally by a ventilation station 7, a
washing station 5, optionally a ventilation station 7, and a
cascade of four dyeing stations 19, each optionally followed by a
ventilation station 7. The last dyeing station 19 can be followed
downstream in serious by a cascade of five washing stations 5,
wherein the first of these washing stations 5 is optionally
followed by a ventilation station 7, and wherein the second of
these washing stations 4 is optionally followed by a warm air
ventilation station 117. In a rather preferred embodiment the
cascade of five washing stations 5 is followed downstream in
serious by a drying station 11 and/or a sizing station 15.
Additionally or alternatively, the fibers, yarn, multitude of
yarns, or fabric can be conveyed downstream in serious through an
accumulator station 1, a calender 3, a washing station 5, a
ventilation station 7, and/or three washing stations 5, before
entering said first dyeing station 19.
[0205] As electrolyte treatment station 33 a vat comprising an
aqueous electrolyte solution through which the fibers, yarn,
multitude of yarns, or fabric is/are conveyed as shown in FIG. 11
can be used. Thereby the fibers, yarn, multitude of yarns, or
fabric is/are conveyed over three rotating drums 123 within the
aqueous electrolyte solution.
[0206] As dyeing stations 19, vats comprising an aqueous dye
formulation through which the fibers, yarn, multitude of yarns, or
fabric is/are conveyed as shown in FIG. 11 can be used. Thereby the
fibers, yarn, multitude of yarns, or fabric is/are conveyed in
series over five rotating drums 123 within the aqueous dye
formulation, through two pressure drums 515, over five rotating
drums 123 within the aqueous dye formulation, and through two
pressure drums 415 outside of the dyeing vat 29 and of the aqueous
dye formulation.
[0207] As washing stations 5, vats comprising a washing solution
through which the fibers, yarn, multitude of yarns, or fabric
is/are conveyed as shown in FIG. 11 can be used. Thereby the
fibers, yarn, multitude of yarns, or fabric is/are conveyed in
series over rotating drums 123 in the washing solution, optionally
through pressure drums 515 followed again by rotating drums 123 in
the washing solution, and through two pressure drums 415 outside of
the washing vat 29. It is also possible to conduct the washing
steps with washing stations 5 as shown and described with respect
to FIG. 6 and FIG. 8.
[0208] In particular in order to reduce or eliminate the shrinking
properties of the colored fibers, yarn, multitude of yarns, or
fabric, an installation of the present invention can further
comprise a sanforizing station through which, preferably after the
fixation step, colored fibers, yarn, multitude of yarns, or fabric
is/are conveyed. In the sanforizing station shown in FIG. 12,
fibers, yarn, multitude of yarns, or fabric is/are winded from a
spool 21 or unloaded from a movable container 121, conveyed over
rotating drums in serious through a wetting station 35, a drying
station 11 consisting of fourteen heated drums 211, a shrinking
unit 47, a dryer 55, an accumulator station 41, and winded again on
a spool 21 or loaded into a movable container 121. The wetting
station 35 comprises a wetting vat 135, through which the fibers,
yarn, multitude of yarns, or fabric is/are conveyed when entering
the wetting station 35 and pressure drums 415 through which the
fibers, yarn, multitude of yarns, or fabric is/are conveyed when
leaving the wetting station 35. The sanforizing unit 47 comprises a
pressure roll 51 and a rubber sleeve 49 that is clamped by three
rubber sleeve cylinders 53. The pressure roll 51 and the rubber
sleeve cylinders 53 squeeze the rubber sleeve 49 in a pressure zone
such that the rubber sleeve becomes elastically stretched. The
wetted, heated and thereby partially dried fibers, yarn, multitude
of yarns, or fabric is/are fed into this pressure zone and conveyed
with the rubber sleeve out of the pressure zone. When leaving the
pressure zone the rubber sleeve returns to its original length
thereby compressing the fibers, yarn, multitude of yarns, or fabric
such that the fibers, yarn, multitude of yarns, or fabric shrink/s.
When the shrunk fibers, yarn, multitude of yarns, or fabric is/are
conveyed through the dryer 55, in this case over a heated drum,
they become dried such that they remain in the shrunk state. After
leaving the dryer 55 and before entering the accumulator section
41, the fibers, yarn, multitude of yarns, or fabric can be
stretched between two rotating drums 23.
[0209] Although modifications and changes maybe suggested by those
skilled in the art, it is the intention of the applicant to embody
within the patent warranted hereon all changes and modifications as
reasonably and probably come within the scope of this contribution
to the art. The features of the present invention which are
believed to be novel are set forth in detail in the appended
claims. The features disclosed in the description, as well as the
features disclosed in the figures can individually or in any
combination be of relevance for the present invention in the
different embodiments.
REFERENCE LIST
[0210] 1 accumulator [0211] 3 calender [0212] 5, 105, 305 washing
station [0213] 7, ventilation station [0214] 9, 19, 39 coloring
station [0215] 11, 211, 311 drying station [0216] 13 sizing station
[0217] 15 pretreating station [0218] 17, 217, 417 fixation station
[0219] 19 dying station [0220] 21, 121 spool [0221] 23, 123, 223
rotating drums [0222] 25 liquid level [0223] 27 standby station
[0224] 29 dyeing vat [0225] 31 steaming station [0226] 33
electrolyte treatment station [0227] 35 wetting station [0228] 37
softening station [0229] 39 coating station [0230] 41 accumulator
station [0231] 43 foulard [0232] 45 sanforizing station [0233] 47
shrinking unit [0234] 49 rubber sleeve [0235] 51 pressure roll
[0236] 53 rubber sleeve cylinders [0237] 55 dryer [0238] 105
multi-vat washing machine [0239] 117 warm air ventilation station
[0240] 121 movable container [0241] 123 rotating drums in the
aqueous dye formulation [0242] 131 steaming station section [0243]
135 wetting vat [0244] 139 roll coater [0245] 205 washing vat
[0246] 211 heated drums [0247] 215 pretreating vat [0248] 217, 311
thermal fixation station [0249] 223 rotating drums in pretreating
vat [0250] 227 rotating table [0251] 305 washing solution [0252]
311 stenter [0253] 411 stenter section [0254] 415 pressure drums
[0255] 417 chemical fixation station [0256] 511 air blowing module
[0257] 515 pressure drums in the aqueous dye formulation [0258] 611
air ventilation section [0259] C cutting line
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