U.S. patent application number 16/691603 was filed with the patent office on 2021-02-04 for free-cut warp-knitted elastic fabric with hidden cross stripe and method for knitting thereof.
The applicant listed for this patent is Pacific (Panyu) Textiles Ltd.. Invention is credited to Mingcai Fan, Xiaozhan Kang, Yanfang Lai, Changsheng Peng, Lihong Qiu, Xia Tang, Xiangjiao Xie, Chun Wah Samuel Yeung, Shuying Zhang, Kaihong Zhou, Shilin Zhuang.
Application Number | 20210032786 16/691603 |
Document ID | / |
Family ID | 1000004522209 |
Filed Date | 2021-02-04 |
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United States Patent
Application |
20210032786 |
Kind Code |
A1 |
Peng; Changsheng ; et
al. |
February 4, 2021 |
FREE-CUT WARP-KNITTED ELASTIC FABRIC WITH HIDDEN CROSS STRIPE AND
METHOD FOR KNITTING THEREOF
Abstract
The present invention discloses a free-cut warp-knitted elastic
fabric with a hidden cross stripe and a method for knitting
thereof. The method includes: making a non-elastic yarn pass across
a guide needle of the first guide bar and form the surface of the
fabric by knitting via three needles in an open warp sateen loop
mode, and making an elastic yarn pass across a guide needle of the
second guide bar and form the inside of the fabric by knitting with
the aforementioned non-elastic yarn in the same direction via three
needles in an open warp sateen loop mode. The warp-knitted fabric
provided by the present invention can be arbitrarily cut, does not
ravel easily, is free of hemming-stitch, and has a hidden cross
stripe effect.
Inventors: |
Peng; Changsheng;
(Guangzhou, CN) ; Xie; Xiangjiao; (Guangzhou,
CN) ; Yeung; Chun Wah Samuel; (Guangzhou, CN)
; Fan; Mingcai; (Guangzhou, CN) ; Qiu; Lihong;
(Guangzhou, CN) ; Tang; Xia; (Guangzhou, CN)
; Zhang; Shuying; (Guangzhou, CN) ; Kang;
Xiaozhan; (Guangzhou, CN) ; Zhou; Kaihong;
(Guangzhou, CN) ; Zhuang; Shilin; (Guangzhou,
CN) ; Lai; Yanfang; (Guangzhou, CN) |
|
Applicant: |
Name |
City |
State |
Country |
Type |
Pacific (Panyu) Textiles Ltd. |
Guangzhou |
|
CN |
|
|
Family ID: |
1000004522209 |
Appl. No.: |
16/691603 |
Filed: |
November 21, 2019 |
Current U.S.
Class: |
1/1 |
Current CPC
Class: |
D04B 21/202 20130101;
D04B 21/207 20130101; D04B 21/18 20130101 |
International
Class: |
D04B 21/18 20060101
D04B021/18; D04B 21/20 20060101 D04B021/20 |
Foreign Application Data
Date |
Code |
Application Number |
Jul 29, 2019 |
CN |
201910690560.7 |
Claims
1. A method for knitting a free-cut warp-knitted elastic fabric
with a hidden cross stripe, which uses a first guide bar and a
second guide bar of a warp knitting machine for knitting,
comprising: making a non-elastic yarn pass across a guide needle of
the first guide bar and form the surface of the fabric by knitting
via three needles in an open warp sateen loop mode, and making an
elastic yarn pass across a guide needle of the second guide bar and
form the inside of the fabric by knitting with the aforementioned
non-elastic yarn in the same direction via three needles in an open
warp sateen loop mode.
2. The method according to claim 1, wherein modes for threading of
the first guide bar and the second guide bar are full-set
threading.
3. The method according to claim 1, wherein the amount of let off
of the non-elastic yarn is 85-120 cm/rack.
4. The method according to claim 1, wherein the amount of let off
of the elastic yarn is 45-75 cm/rack.
5. The method according to claim 1, wherein the non-elastic yarn is
a chemical filament.
6. The method according to claim 5, wherein the fineness of the
chemical filament is 11-85 dtex, preferably 22-56 dtex.
7. The method according to claim 1, wherein the elastic yarn is a
spandex yarn having a fineness of 22-77 dtex, preferably 22-56
dtex.
8. A fabric, wherein the fabric is produced by using the method of
claim 1.
9. A garment, wherein at least a portion of a linear edge and/or a
curved edge of the garment is composed of the fabric of claim 8.
Description
CROSS REFERENCE TO RELATED APPLICATIONS
[0001] The present application claims the benefit of Chinese Patent
Application No. 201910690560.7 filed on Jul. 29, 2019, the contents
of which are incorporated herein by reference in their
entirety.
TECHNICAL FIELD
[0002] The present invention belongs to the field of knitted
fabrics and particularly relates to a free-cut warp-knitted elastic
fabric with a hidden cross stripe and a method for knitting
thereof.
BACKGROUD
[0003] It is well known that the edges of a lower hem and the like
of an apparel fabric generally need to be folded into two layers
for stitching, or need to subjected to edge processing
(hemming-stitch) of stitching with other fabrics and thread strips,
but if such edge processing is performed, the broken edge will
become thicker, affecting the appearance of the product, and the
skin in contact with the edge will be subjected to compression
friction or airtightness, and thus it is not desirable to perform
edge processing during the processing of the apparel fabric.
[0004] Recently, free-cut fabrics are free-cut fabrics that have
recently received more attention from the market, and are also
called arbitrarily-cut fabrics. The free-cut fabrics are each
usually a four-sided elastic fabric made of a chemical fiber and
spandex. The woven raw materials are generally nylon fiber and
low-temperature spandex. The produced fabric has the advantages of
no curling, no raveling and no thread dropping, can be cut freely,
and has a softer and smoother hand feeling than a fabric cut
traceless.
[0005] A structural fabric disclosed in JP-A-2004-169262 has
certain requirements for an elastic yarn used, and low-temperature
spandex must be used, and there are certain requirements for the
setting temperature thereof, otherwise the problem of raveling is
likely to occur, resulting in one fabric being divided into
two.
[0006] CN201473695U discloses an elastic fabric, which has a
doubling knitted structure and is knitted by combining at least one
strand of elastic yarns and at least one strand of non-elastic
yarns. The non-elastic yarn is a polyester yarn or a cotton yarn,
and the elastic yarn is a spandex yarn. The elastic fabric of the
utility model not only incorporates the elastic yarn in the
knitting method, but also combines a unique doubling knitting
structure. The elastic fabric has a very good elastic force, and
the fabric surface has an attractive pattern. However, the edge of
the fabric still needs to be subjected to edge processing.
[0007] In addition, most of current free-cut fabrics are ordinary
plain weave elastic plain fabrics, such as a fabric described in a
Japanese patent 2017-214686. Therefore, the development of a
free-cut fabric with a pattern effect will increase the
competitiveness of the product to a certain extent and also provide
more choices to meet the various needs of consumers.
SUMMARY
[0008] In view of the deficiencies of the prior art, objectives of
the present invention are to provide a free-cut warp-knitted
elastic fabric with a hidden cross stripe and a method for knitting
thereof. The warp-knitted fabric can be arbitrarily cut, does not
ravel easily, is free of hemming-stitch, and has a hidden cross
stripe effect.
[0009] The first objective of the present invention is to provide a
method for knitting a free-cut warp-knitted elastic fabric with a
hidden cross stripe. Only by means of a knitting structure, the
knitting method provided by the present invention maintains an
original cutting state without edge processing and without heating
bonding processing, can prevent yarn breakage and fabric raveling
more reliably. Moreover, laser cutting and heating treatment are
not required, the fabric can be produced by using ordinary electric
scissors, and thus the cost is greatly saved; and the structure has
a hidden cross stripe effect, which will improve the
competitiveness of the product to some extent. To achieve this
objective, the present invention adopts the following technical
solution:
[0010] A method for knitting a free-cut warp-knitted elastic fabric
with a hidden cross stripe, which uses a first guide bar and a
second guide bar of a warp knitting machine for knitting,
includes:
[0011] making a non-elastic yarn pass across a guide needle of the
first guide bar and form the surface of the fabric by knitting via
three needles in an open warp sateen loop mode, and
[0012] making an elastic yarn pass across a guide needle of the
second guide bar and form the inside of the fabric by knitting with
the aforementioned non-elastic yarn in the same direction via three
needles in an open warp sateen loop mode.
[0013] Under the conditions of ensuring normal knitting, it is
preferable to increase the amount of let off of the non-elastic
yarn, and to shorten the amount of let off of the elastic yarn.
Preferably, the amount of let off of the non-elastic yarn is 85-120
cm/rack. For example, the amount of let off of the non-elastic yarn
is 85 cm/rack, 86 cm/rack, 87 cm/rack, 88 cm/rack, 89 cm/rack, 90
cm/rack, 91 cm/rack, 92 cm/rack, 93 cm/rack , 94 cm/rack, 95
cm/rack, 96 cm/rack, 97 cm/rack, 98 cm/rack, 99 cm/rack, 100
cm/rack, 101 cm/rack, 102 cm/rack, 103 cm/rack , 104 cm/rack, 105
cm/rack, 106 cm/rack, 107 cm/rack, 108 cm/rack, 109 cm/rack, 110
cm/rack, 111 cm/rack, 112 cm/rack, 113 cm/rack , 114 cm/rack, 115
cm/rack, 116 cm/rack, 117 cm/rack, 118 cm/rack, 119 cm/rack, or 120
cm/rack.
[0014] Preferably, the amount of let off of the elastic yarn is
45-75 cm/rack. For example, the amount of let off of the elastic
yarn is 45 cm/rack, 46 cm/rack, 47 cm/rack, 48 cm/rack, 49 cm/rack,
50 cm/rack, 51 cm/rack, 52 cm/rack, 53 cm/rack , 54 cm/rack, 55
cm/rack, 56 cm/rack, 57 cm/rack, 58 cm/rack, 59 cm/rack, 60
cm/rack, 61 cm/rack, 62 cm/rack, 63 cm/rack , 64 cm/rack, 65
cm/rack, 66 cm/rack, 67 cm/rack, 68 cm/rack, 69 cm/rack, 70
cm/rack, 71 cm/rack, 72 cm/rack, 73 cm/rack , 74 cm/rack, or 75
cm/rack.
[0015] Preferably, modes for threading of the first guide bar and
the second guide bar are full-set threading.
[0016] It should be noted that the "amount of let off" as described
in the present invention means the length (cm) of the yarn used for
knitting 480 loop courses.
[0017] In the present invention, the elastic yarn and the
non-elastic yarn must be knitted in a same-direction knitting
structure mode; otherwise the formed fabric may be curled due to
tension.
[0018] The non-elastic yarn is a chemical filament, such as a
straight yarn and/or a draw textured yarn; and further, the
chemical filament is a nylon filament or a polyester filament. The
fineness of the chemical filament is 11-85 dtex. For example, the
fineness is 11 dtex, 15 dtex, 22 dtex, 33 dtex, 44 dtex, 56 dtex,
60 dtex, 66 dtex, 75 dtex, 77 dtex, 85 dtex; and preferably, the
fineness of the chemical filament is 22-56 dtex. For example, the
fineness is 22 dtex, 33 dtex, 44 dtex, or 56 dtex.
[0019] The elastic yarn is a spandex yarn. Although when the
elastic yarn is thinner, it is easier to increase the density of
the fabric, if the elastic yarn is too fine, the strength is weak.
The fineness of the elastic yarn is 22-77 dtex. For example, the
fineness of the elastic yarn is 22 dtex, 33 dtex, 44 dtex, 56 dtex,
66 dtex, 75 dtex, or 77 dtex, preferably 22-56 dtex. For example,
the fineness of the elastic yarn is 22 dtex, 33 dtex. , 44 dtex, or
56 dtex.
[0020] The second objective of the present invention is to provide
the free-cut warp-knitted elastic fabric with a hidden cross stripe
prepared by the knitting method of the first objective. The
free-cut warp-knitted elastic fabric with a hidden cross stripe is
formed by knitting the non-elastic yarn and the elastic yarn in a
same-direction knitting structure mode, and the produced
warp-knitted fabric can be arbitrarily cut, does not ravel easily,
is free of hemming-stitch, and has a hidden cross stripe effect.
The "hidden cross strip effect" according to the present invention
is caused by the characteristics of the fabric structure itself,
and loop courses tilted in different directions perform different
reflections of light, so that cross stripes are formed on the
surface of the knitted fabric, which has a certain pattern
effect.
[0021] In the preceding text, several terms are explained as
follows:
[0022] Arbitrary cutting: When garments such as underwear and
close-fitting clothes are sewn, a neckline, a lower hem and cuffs
do not need to bind off, which improves the wearing comfort of the
garments. The present invention achieves this performance by
utilizing a special knitting structure.
[0023] Full drawed yarn: The chemical filament has drafting during
the spinning process, the degree of orientation and crystallinity
are relatively high, and the knitted fabric is relatively flat and
smooth.
[0024] Draw textured yarn: The draw textured yarn is also known as
textured yarn. The draw textured yarn is obtained by stretching and
deformation processing during the spinning process, is fluffy and
curly and has certain elasticity. The knitted fabric has a relative
cotton feel, the cloth cover texture is not clear, and the fabric
is soft in hand feeling.
[0025] Atlas stitch is a warp knit structure in which each yarn
forms loops sequentially on three or more adjacent knitting
needles.
[0026] In addition, from the viewpoint of preventing occurrence of
curling, it is preferable that a braided fabric is not linear when
cut, and preferably has a wave shape.
[0027] The third objective of the present invention is to provide a
garment, wherein the garment is produced using the free-cut
warp-knitted elastic fabric with a hidden cross stripe, and at
least a portion of a linear edge and/or a curved edge of the
apparel fabric is composed of the free-cut warp-knitted elastic
fabric with a hidden cross stripe. The garment thus produced has
elasticity.
[0028] For the free-cut warp-knitted elastic fabric with a hidden
cross stripe provided by the present invention, a dyeing and
finishing process includes: refining a knitted fabric, and then
dehydrating the fabric for the first time; after dehydration,
executing a presetting process, and then performing dyeing
treatment; drying the dyed fabric, and finally subjecting a
finished product to setting, where the objective of refining is to
remove impurities on the fabric, make the fabric white and soft and
have good penetrating properties, and prepare for subsequent
dyeing. A refining device is generally a cooking device, such as a
cloth cooking pot. A first-time dehydration device includes a
rolling dehydrator, or a vacuum dehydrator, a dryer, a centrifugal
dehydrator, or the like; a presetting and setting device is a
tentering setting machine; a dyeing device is a high temperature
and high pressure dyeing machine, a skein dyeing machine, a sizing
and dyeing combination machine, a spray dyeing device, a foam
dyeing device, or the like; and a drying device is a dryer.
[0029] Compared with the prior art, the present invention has the
following beneficial effects:
[0030] (1) The free-cut warp-knitted elastic fabric with a hidden
cross stripe provided by the present invention can be arbitrarily
cut, does not ravel easily, is free of hemming-stitch, has a hidden
cross stripe effect, has good elongation, snagging grade, hand
feeling and pattern effect, and has a longitudinal elongation of
79-148%, a horizontal elongation of 100-160% and a snagging grade
of 2-3.5. The hand feeling grade is up to 4, and the fabric has a
pattern effect. Specifically, two kinds of yarns (the first guide
bar/the second guide bar) of the free-cut warp-knitted elastic
fabric with a hidden cross stripe uses the three-needle open warp
sateen weave structure combination, and the finished fabric meets
the requirements for free cutting, and can meet the requirements on
various occasions; the setting of guide bar full-set threading
elastic yarn makes the free-cut warp-knitted elastic fabric with a
hidden cross stripe have certain elasticity, and expands the range
of practical applications. Moreover, the structure combination
makes the snagging grade of the fabric better, and the fabric
further has a certain pattern effect, does not curl, can be freely
cut, has good wearability, can be applied to underwear, corsets or
sportswear, and has a good market prospect.
[0031] (2) Only by means of a knitting structure, the process for
knitting the free-cut warp-knitted elastic fabric with a hidden
cross stripe maintains an original cutting state without edge
processing, without laser cutting and without heating bonding
processing. The fabric can be produced by ordinary electric shears,
and thus the cost is greatly reduced.
BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS
[0032] FIG. 1 is a schematic structural diagram of a free-cut
warp-knitted elastic fabric with a hidden cross stripe according to
the present invention;
[0033] FIG. 2 is a schematic structural diagram of a sports garment
piece according to Application Example 1 of the present
invention;
[0034] FIG. 3 is a schematic structural view of a side A of a pair
of shorts according to Application Example 2 of the present
invention; and
[0035] FIG. 4 is a schematic structural view of a side B of the
pair of shorts according to Application Example 2 of the present
invention.
DESCRIPTION OF THE EMBODIMENTS
[0036] The technical solution of the present invention will be
further described below with reference to FIGS. 1 to 4 and by
specific embodiments.
[0037] For a free-cut warp-knitted elastic fabric with a hidden
cross stripe provided by the present invention, an adopted machine
is a Karl Mayer HKS 2-3E type tricot warp knitting machine with a
machine number of E40 and the basic structure thereof includes a
let-off mechanism, a knitting mechanism, a guide bar traverse
movement mechanism, a pulling and curling mechanism, a transmission
mechanism, and the like. The knitting mechanism includes a needle
bed, a first guide bar (GB1), a second guide bar (GB2), and the
like, and a mode for threading for GB1/GB2 full-set threading. The
following embodiments adopt the aforementioned machine and knitting
mode. The first guide bar (GB1) threads the non-elastic yarn and
the non-elastic yarn is knitted in a movement mode of yarn laying
digital of 1-0/1-2/2-3/2-1// by using a three-needle open warp
sateen structure, and the second guide bar (GB2) threads the
elastic yarn and the elastic yarn is knitted in a movement mode of
yarn laying digital of 1-0/1-2/2-3/2-1// by using a three-needle
open warp sateen structure. The structural diagram of the specific
fabric is as shown in FIG. 1.
Embodiment 1
[0038] A free-cut warp-knitted elastic fabric with a hidden cross
stripe according to this embodiment includes a fabric body, and the
fabric body is formed by knitting a non-elastic yarn and an elastic
yarn in a same-direction knitting structure mode; where the
non-elastic yarn forms the surface of the fabric by warp sateen
weave; and the elastic yarn forms the inside of the fabric by warp
sateen weave.
[0039] The non-elastic yarn is selected from a polyester straight
yarn having a fineness of 22 dtex, and the elastic yarn is a
spandex yarn having a fineness of 44 dtex.
[0040] A process for knitting a free-cut warp-knitted elastic
fabric with a hidden cross stripe is as follows: a non-elastic yarn
passes across a guide needle of the first guide bar and is knitted
in an open warp sateen loop mode through three needles (the yarn
laying digital is 1-0/1-2/2-3/2-1//), and the elastic yarn passes
across a guide needle of the second guide bar and is knitted in an
open warp sateen loop mode in the same direction as the
aforementioned non-elastic yarn through three needles (the yarn
laying digital is 1-0/1-2/2-3/2-1//), to form a gray fabric of the
free-cut warp-knitted elastic fabric with a hidden cross
stripe.
[0041] The amount of let off of the non-elastic yarn is 85 cm/rack,
the amount of let off of the elastic yarn is 55 cm/rack, and modes
for threading of the first guide bar (GB1) and the second guide bar
(GB2) are full-set threading.
Embodiment 2
[0042] A free-cut warp-knitted elastic fabric with a hidden cross
stripe according to this embodiment includes a fabric body, and the
fabric body is formed by knitting a non-elastic yarn and an elastic
yarn in a same-direction knitting structure mode; where the
non-elastic yarn forms the surface of the fabric by warp sateen
weave; and the elastic yarn forms the inside of the fabric by warp
sateen weave.
[0043] The non-elastic yarn is selected from a nylon round straight
chevilled silk having a fineness of 22 dtex, and the elastic yarn
is a spandex yarn having a fineness of 33 dtex.
[0044] A process for knitting a free-cut warp-knitted elastic
fabric with a hidden cross stripe is as follows: a non-elastic yarn
passes across a guide needle of the first guide bar and is knitted
in an open warp sateen loop mode through three needles (the yarn
laying digital is 1-0/1-2/2-3/2-1//), and the elastic yarn passes
across a guide needle of the second guide bar and is knitted in an
open warp sateen loop mode in the same direction as the
aforementioned non-elastic yarn through three needles (the yarn
laying digital is 1-0/1-2/2-3/2-1//), to form a gray fabric of the
free-cut warp-knitted elastic fabric with a hidden cross
stripe.
[0045] The amount of let off of the non-elastic yarn is 85 cm/rack,
the amount of let off of the elastic yarn is 45cm/rack, and modes
for threading of the first guide bar (GB1) and the second guide bar
(GB2) are full-set threading.
Embodiment 3
[0046] A free-cut warp-knitted elastic fabric with a hidden cross
stripe according to this embodiment includes a fabric body, and the
fabric body is formed by knitting a non-elastic yarn and an elastic
yarn in a same-direction knitting structure mode; where the
non-elastic yarn forms the surface of the fabric by warp sateen
weave; and the elastic yarn forms the inside of the fabric by warp
sateen weave.
[0047] The non-elastic yarn is selected from a nylon matte straight
yarn having a fineness of 33 dtex, and the elastic yarn is a
spandex yarn having a fineness of 44 dtex.
[0048] A process for knitting a free-cut warp-knitted elastic
fabric with a hidden cross stripe is as follows: a non-elastic yarn
passes across a guide needle of the first guide bar and is knitted
in an open warp sateen loop mode through three needles (the yarn
laying digital is 1-0/1-2/2-3/2-1//), and the elastic yarn passes
across a guide needle of the second guide bar and is knitted in an
open warp sateen loop mode in the same direction as the
aforementioned non-elastic yarn through three needles (the yarn
laying digital is 1-0/1-2/2-3/2-1//), to form a gray fabric of the
free-cut warp-knitted elastic fabric with a hidden cross
stripe.
[0049] The amount of let off of the non-elastic yarn is 90 cm/rack,
the amount of let off of the elastic yarn is 52 cm/rack, and modes
for threading of the first guide bar (GB1) and the second guide bar
(GB2) are full-set threading.
Embodiment 4
[0050] A free-cut warp-knitted elastic fabric with a hidden cross
stripe according to this embodiment includes a fabric body, and the
fabric body is formed by knitting a non-elastic yarn and an elastic
yarn in a same-direction knitting structure mode; where the
non-elastic yarn forms the surface of the fabric by warp sateen
weave; and the elastic yarn forms the inside of the fabric by warp
sateen weave.
[0051] The non-elastic yarn is selected from a nylon matte straight
yarn having a fineness of 44 dtex, and the elastic yarn is a
spandex yarn having a fineness of 75 dtex.
[0052] A process for knitting a free-cut warp-knitted elastic
fabric with a hidden cross stripe is as follows: a non-elastic yarn
passes across a guide needle of the first guide bar and is knitted
in an open warp sateen loop mode through three needles (the yarn
laying digital is 1-0/1-2/2-3/2-1//), and the elastic yarn passes
across a guide needle of the second guide bar and is knitted in an
open warp sateen loop mode in the same direction as the
aforementioned non-elastic yarn through three needles (the yarn
laying digital is 1-0/1-2/2-3/2-1//), to form a gray fabric of the
free-cut warp-knitted elastic fabric with a hidden cross
stripe.
[0053] The amount of let off of the non-elastic yarn is 105
cm/rack, the amount of let off of the elastic yarn is 75 cm/rack,
and modes for threading of the first guide bar (GB1) and the second
guide bar (GB2) are full-set threading.
Embodiment 5
[0054] A free-cut warp-knitted elastic fabric with a hidden cross
stripe according to this embodiment includes a fabric body, and the
fabric body is formed by knitting a non-elastic yarn and an elastic
yarn in a same-direction knitting structure mode; where the
non-elastic yarn forms the surface of the fabric by warp sateen
weave; and the elastic yarn forms the inside of the fabric by warp
sateen weave.
[0055] The non-elastic yarn is selected from a polyester draw
textured yarn having a fineness of 44 dtex, and the elastic yarn is
a spandex yarn having a fineness of 75 dtex.
[0056] A process for knitting a free-cut warp-knitted elastic
fabric with a hidden cross stripe is as follows: a non-elastic yarn
passes across a guide needle of the first guide bar and is knitted
in an open warp sateen loop mode through three needles (the yarn
laying digital is 1-0/1-2/2-3/2-1//), and the elastic yarn passes
across a guide needle of the second guide bar and is knitted in an
open warp sateen loop mode in the same direction as the
aforementioned non-elastic yarn through three needles (the yarn
laying digital is 1-0/1-2/2-3/2-1//), to form a gray fabric of the
free-cut warp-knitted elastic fabric with a hidden cross
stripe.
[0057] The amount of let off of the non-elastic yarn is 110
cm/rack, the amount of let off of the elastic yarn is 75 cm/rack,
and modes for threading of the first guide bar (GB1) and the second
guide bar (GB2) are full-set threading.
Embodiment 6
[0058] This comparative example differs from Embodiment 1 in that
the non-elastic yarn is a nylon straight yarn having a fineness of
156 dtex, and the other knitting methodes are the same as those of
Embodiment 1.
[0059] The warp-knitted fabric prepared by using the knitting mode
is coarse and hard in hand feeling, and the elongation is also
lowered.
Embodiment 7
[0060] This comparative example differs from Embodiment 1 in that
the fineness of elastic yarn is 116 dtex, and the other knitting
methodes are the same as those of Embodiment 1.
[0061] In the warp-knitted fabric producing in the knitting mode, a
yellow spandex yarn is exposed at the bottom of the fabric, and the
elongation of the warp-knitted fabric is greatly reduced and the
fabric is too hard in hand feeling, and the cloth cover quality
will also deteriorate. An example is black marks at the bottom of
the fabric.
Embodiment 8
[0062] This comparative example differs from Embodiment 1 in that
the amount of let off of the non-elastic yarn is less than that of
the elastic yarn, that is, the amount of let off of the non-elastic
yarn is 75 cm/rack, the amount of let off of the elastic yarn is
105 cm/rack, and the other knitting methods are the same as those
of Embodiment 1.
[0063] The warp-knitted fabric produced in the knitting mode has
uneven stitch in cloth cover quality and has a lot of defects, and
the fabric has poor resilience.
APPLICTION EXAMPLE 1
[0064] The gray fabric of the free-cut warp-knitted elastic fabric
with a hidden cross stripe produced in Embodiment 1 is woven into a
sports garment piece with a schematic structural diagram as shown
in FIG. 2, where edges of an apparel fabric where 2a, 2b, 2c and 2d
of the sports garment piece are located do not need to undergo edge
processing, a garment does not need to undergo heat bonding
processing or hemming-stitch, an edge fabric can be made thin, and
the garment wears comfortable.
APPLICTION EXAMPLE 2
[0065] The free-cut warp-knitted elastic fabric with a hidden cross
stripe produced in Embodiment 2 is woven into a pair of shorts
including sides A and B, where the schematic structural diagram of
the side A is shown in FIG. 3, and the schematic structural diagram
of the side B is shown in FIG. 4. The edges of the apparel fabric
where 3a, 3b and 3c are located do not need to undergo edge
processing.
COMPARATIVE EXAMPLE 1
[0066] This comparative example differs from Embodiment 1 in that
the non-elastic yarn and the elastic yarn are knitted in a
different-direction knitting structure mode, and the other knitting
methods are the same as those of Embodiment 1.
[0067] The warp-knitted fabric produced in the knitting mode also
has a hidden cross stripe effect, and does not have the free-cut
characteristics.
COMPARATIVE EXAMPLE 2
[0068] This comparative example differs from Embodiment 1 in that
the non-elastic yarn passes across a guide needle of the first
guide bar and is knitted in an open warp plain stitch loop mode
through three needles (the yarn laying digital is 2-3/1-0//), and
the elastic yarn passes across a guide needle of the second guide
bar and is knitted in an open warp plain stitch loop mode through
two needles (the yarn laying digital is 1-2/1-0//), to form a gray
fabric of the free-cut warp-knitted fabric.
[0069] The warp-knitted fabric produced in the knitting mode has
free-cut characteristics, but does not have a hidden cross stripe
effect, and the cloth cover has a plain weave effect.
COMPARATIVE EXAMPLE 3
[0070] This comparative example differs from Embodiment 1 in that
the non-elastic yarn passes across a guide needle of the first
guide bar and is knitted in a closed warp sateen loop mode through
three needles (the yarn laying digital is 0-1/2-1/3-2/1-2//), and
the elastic yarn passes across a guide needle of the second guide
bar and is knitted in a closed warp sateen loop mode through three
needles (the yarn laying digital is 0-1/2-1/3-2/1-2//), to form a
gray fabric of the free-cut warp-knitted fabric with a hidden cross
stripe.
[0071] The warp-knitted fabric produced in the knitting mode has
free-cut characteristics and also has a hidden cross stripe effect,
but the tensile properties of the fabric are poor, and the value is
smaller, which limits the scope of wearability.
[0072] Experimental Detection
[0073] (1) Tensile Property
[0074] Referring to the LTD-03 tensile force test method
(Victoria's Secret customer-specific test), this standard is to
test the elongation of the woven or knitted elastic fabric under
the agreed tensile force; the test sample size was 9.times.3 inch,
fabrics of embodiments and comparative examples were taken in the
horizontal direction and the longitudinal direction, the tensile
force instrument used was Zwick/Roell's H01-LLJ-004 tensile
machine, using a force of 7.5 lb, with an intermediate clamping
distance of 127 mm and a stretching speed of 20 in/min, and the
cycle stretch was performed twice.
[0075] (2) Snagging Performance
[0076] Referring to the test method of BS-8479 Method for
Determining Textile Spinning Tendency--Rotating Chamber Method,
fabrics of the embodiments and the comparative examples were tested
by snagging under the James Heal Snagging Tester instrument. The
test sample size was 140*140 mm. The test samples underwent forward
rotation for 50 turns at a speed of 60 r/min, and underwent
reversal rotation for 50 turns; the cycle was performed 10 times,
1000 turns were performed in total, and then the samples were taken
out and compared with a standard grading picture to obtain snagging
grades. There are grades 1-5, grade 5 is the best, and grade 1 is
the worst.
[0077] (3) Hand Feeling
[0078] Three textile industry technicians were selected to make a
touch feeling on fabrics, and comprehensively evaluate the hand
feeling of the fabrics. There are grades 1-5, and grade 5 is the
best.
[0079] (4) Pattern Effect
[0080] Whether the free-cut warp-knitted fabric knitted according
to different weave structures has a pattern effect is observed
through grain appearance. The fabric which has a pattern effect is
evaluated as Y, and the fabric which does not have a pattern effect
is evaluated as N.
[0081] The elongation properties, snagging, hand feeling and
pattern effect and other indexes of the finished fabrics obtained
in Embodiments 1-8 and Comparative Examples 1-3 were evaluated. The
results are shown in Table 1.
TABLE-US-00001 TABLE 1 Elongation Snagging Hand feeling Pattern (%)
(grade) (grade) effect Embodi- Lengthwise 148 3 3 Y ment 1
Widthwise 160 3.5 Embodi- Lengthwise 104 2.5 4 Y ment 2 Widthwise
154 3 Embodi- Lengthwise 114 3 3 Y ment 3 Widthwise 155 3.5 Embodi-
Lengthwise 79 3.5 2.5 Y ment 4 Widthwise 100 3.5 Embodi- Lengthwise
85 2.5 3 Y ment 5 Widthwise 110 2 Embodi- Lengthwise 70 2 1 Y ment
6 Widthwise 95 2 Embodi- Lengthwise 65 2.5 1 Y ment 7 Widthwise 80
2 Embodi- Lengthwise 60 2 2 Y ment 8 Widthwise 75 1.5 Comparative
Lengthwise 92 1.5 3 Y Example 1 Widthwise 135 1.5 Comparative
Lengthwise 120 2.5 2.5 N Example 2 Widthwise 93 2.5 Comparative
Lengthwise 75 3 3 Y Example 3 Widthwise 98 3
[0082] As can be seen from Table 1, the free-cut warp-knitted
elastic fabric with a hidden cross stripe knitted with the
structure according to the preset invention has an optimal yarn
using collocation range combination, and the fabric knitted in this
way has superiority in terms of elasticity, snagging and hand
feeling.
[0083] The fabrics produced by using coarser yarns in Embodiments 6
and 7 are harder in hand feeling and poorer in elasticity, and many
products are not suitable for use. In addition, fabrics obtained by
adopting other structures, such as reverse yarn laying movement of
Comparative Example 1 also have a hidden cross stripe effect, but
do not have free-cut characteristics; Comparative Example 2 uses
other same-direction yarn laying structures, has free-cut
characteristics, but does not have a hidden cross stripe effect,
and the cloth cover has a plain weave effect and the
competitiveness is lost; Comparative Example 3 uses a three-needle
closed warp sateen structure, has free-cut characteristics and also
has a hidden cross stripe effect, but the tensile properties of the
fabric are poor, and the value is smaller, which limits the scope
of wearability. In summary, the present invention is superior to
the prior art in terms of structure and properties of finished
fabrics.
[0084] The free-cut warp-knitted fabric with a hidden cross stripe
provided by the present invention can be arbitrarily cut, does not
ravel easily, is free of hemming-stitch, and has a hidden cross
stripe effect. Only by means of a knitting structure, the process
for knitting the free-cut warp-knitted elastic fabric with a hidden
cross stripe maintains an original cutting state without edge
processing, without laser cutting and without heating bonding
processing. The fabric can be produced by ordinary electric shears,
and thus the cost is greatly reduced.
[0085] The above contents are merely preferred embodiments of the
present invention, and for those of ordinary skill in the art,
changes can be made on specific embodiments and application scopes
according to the idea of the present invention. The content of the
present specification should not be construed as limiting the
present invention.
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