U.S. patent application number 16/977001 was filed with the patent office on 2021-01-07 for method for manufacturing a stretch fabric comprising plant fibres and stretch fabric manufactured by such method.
The applicant listed for this patent is LORO PIANA S.P.A.. Invention is credited to Andrea BAGGIANI, Francesca SOSTER.
Application Number | 20210002798 16/977001 |
Document ID | / |
Family ID | |
Filed Date | 2021-01-07 |
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United States Patent
Application |
20210002798 |
Kind Code |
A1 |
SOSTER; Francesca ; et
al. |
January 7, 2021 |
METHOD FOR MANUFACTURING A STRETCH FABRIC COMPRISING PLANT FIBRES
AND STRETCH FABRIC MANUFACTURED BY SUCH METHOD
Abstract
A method includes the operating steps of providing a stretch
twisted yarn including a plurality of single threads twisted
together. A pair of mixed threads has substantially inextensible
plant fibers mixed with water-soluble fibers, and an elastic single
thread includes synthetic elastic fibers. The method further
includes providing a further yarn, manufacturing a fabric through
weaving by interlacing the twisted yarn with the further yarn, and
dissolving the water-soluble fibers from the fabric.
Inventors: |
SOSTER; Francesca; (QUARONA
(VC), IT) ; BAGGIANI; Andrea; (BORGOSESIA (VC),
IT) |
|
Applicant: |
Name |
City |
State |
Country |
Type |
LORO PIANA S.P.A. |
QUARONA |
|
IT |
|
|
Appl. No.: |
16/977001 |
Filed: |
February 28, 2019 |
PCT Filed: |
February 28, 2019 |
PCT NO: |
PCT/IB2019/051608 |
371 Date: |
August 31, 2020 |
Current U.S.
Class: |
1/1 |
International
Class: |
D03D 15/08 20060101
D03D015/08; D02G 3/32 20060101 D02G003/32; D03D 15/00 20060101
D03D015/00 |
Foreign Application Data
Date |
Code |
Application Number |
Mar 1, 2018 |
IT |
102018000003155 |
Claims
1. Method for manufacturing a stretch fabric comprising the
following operating steps: providing a stretch twisted yarn
comprising a plurality of single threads twisted together and
wherein the plurality of single threads comprises: a pair of mixed
threads, said mixed threads comprising substantially inextensible
plant fibers mixed with water-soluble fibers, and an elastic single
thread, said elastic thread comprising synthetic elastic fibers;
providing a further yarn; manufacturing a fabric through weaving by
interlacing a set of threads of said stretch twisted yarn with a
set of threads of said further yarn; and dissolving said
water-soluble fibers from said fabric.
2. The method according to claim 1, wherein said further yarn is
said stretch twisted yarn.
3. The method according to claim 1, wherein said further yarn is a
substantially inextensible yarn comprising substantially
inextensible plant fibers.
4. The method according to claim 3, wherein said plant fibers of
said mixed yarn are bast fibers.
5. The method according to claim 4, wherein said bast fibers
comprise linen fibers.
6. The method according to claim 1, wherein said water-soluble
fibers comprise alginic fibers.
7. The method according to claim 1, wherein said water-soluble
fibers comprise synthetic fibers made of polyvinyl alcohol or
polyvinyl acetate.
8. The method according to claim 1, wherein said synthetic elastic
fibers comprise polyurethanic fibers.
9. The method according to claim 3, wherein said substantially
inextensible yarn comprises plant fibers of the same type used for
said mixed yarn.
10. The method according to claim 3, wherein said plant fibers of
said substantially inextensible yarn are bast fibers.
11. The method according to claim 10, wherein said bast fibers
comprise linen fibers.
12. The method according to claim 3, wherein said substantially
inextensible yarn comprises a first single thread made of
substantially inextensible plant fibers and a second single thread
made of animal fibers, said threads being twisted together.
13. The method according to claim 12, wherein said plant fibers of
said first thread comprise bast fibers.
14. The method according to claim 13, wherein said bast fibers
comprise linen fibers.
15. The method according to claim 12, wherein said animal fibers of
said second thread comprise silk fibers.
16. The method according to claim 3, wherein said substantially
inextensible yarn comprises a pair of single threads made of
substantially inextensible plant fibers twisted together.
17. The method according to claim 3, wherein said weaving is
carried out so that a set of weft threads comprises a plurality of
threads of said stretch twisted yarn alternated with a plurality of
threads of said substantially inextensible yarn.
18. The method according to claim 17, wherein said weaving is
carried out so that a set of warp threads comprises a plurality of
threads of said substantially inextensible yarn.
19. The method according to claim 18, wherein said weaving is
carried out so that a set of warp threads comprises a plurality of
threads of stretch twisted yarn alternated with said plurality of
threads of substantially inextensible yarn.
20. The method according to claim 1, wherein said weaving is
carried out so that a set of weft threads comprises a plurality of
threads of said stretch twisted yarn and a set of warp threads
comprises a plurality of threads of the stretch twisted yarn.
21. The method according to claim 1, wherein said water-soluble
fibers are dissolved from said fabric by a bath in an alkaline
solution.
22. A stretch fabric obtained by a method according to claim 1.
Description
TECHNICAL FIELD
[0001] The invention relates to a method for manufacturing a
stretch fabric and to a fabric manufactured by means of such
method.
TECHNOLOGICAL BACKGROUND
[0002] Plant fibers, especially bast fiber and, more in particular,
linen fibers, are known to be particularly stiff and irregular, not
very extensible and easily creased. However, their high thermal
conductivity makes them particularly suitable for manufacturing
summer items of clothing and this causes them to be counted among
the finest natural fibers.
[0003] The state of the art currently causes the linen fabric to be
become elastic through the twisting of the linen yarn with an
elastic yarn, typically an elastomeric (for example, polyurethanic)
yarn, changing the twisting coefficient from low to high or very
high, which is what happen with extra-twisted yarns. Alternatively,
this mechanism is supported by a further thermoshrinking yarn made
of a synthetic fiber. This technique, however, does not allow
manufacturers to obtain a good elastic recovery of the fabric
manufactured with the above-mentioned yarn thus causing the
formation of visible defects.
SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION
[0004] An object of the invention is to provide a method for
manufacturing a stretch fabric and a stretch fabric manufactured by
means of such method, wherein they are capable of solving the
drawbacks of the prior art.
[0005] In particular, the invention is aimed at providing a method
for manufacturing a stretch fabric which is comfortable and has a
high degree of elasticity, solving, at the same time, the tendency
to form typical defects due to the lack of elastic return.
[0006] According to the invention, this and other objects are
reached by means of a method and a fabric having the technical
features set forth in the appended independent claims.
[0007] The appended claims are an integral part of the technical
teaches provided in the following detailed description concerning
the invention. In particular, the appended dependent claims define
some embodiments of the invention including preferred or optional
technical features.
[0008] Further features and advantages of the invention will be
best understood upon perusal of the following detailed description,
which is provided by way of example and is not limiting, with
reference, in particular, to the accompanying drawings, which are
briefly described below:
BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS
[0009] FIG. 1 is a schematic view, in a longitudinal direction, of
a stretch twisted yarn which can be used in a method implemented
according to an explanatory embodiment of the invention.
[0010] FIG. 2 is a schematic, cross section view of the stretch
twisted yarn shown in FIG. 1.
DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION
[0011] With reference, in particular and by way of example, to
FIGS. 1 and 2, the invention suggests a method for manufacturing a
stretch yarn comprising the following operating steps: [0012]
providing a stretch twisted yarn (1) comprising a plurality of
single threads twisted together and wherein there are: [0013] a
pair of mixed threads 10, 12, wherein the mixed threads comprise
substantially inextensible plant fibers mixed with water-soluble
fibers, and an elastic single thread 14, wherein the elastic thread
comprises synthetic elastic fibers; [0014] providing a further
yarn, for example a substantially inextensible yarn comprising
substantially inextensible plant fibers; [0015] manufacturing a
fabric through weaving by interlacing a set of threads of said
stretch twisted yarn 1 with a set of threads of said further yarn,
for example threads of the aforesaid substantially inextensible
yarn; and [0016] dissolving the water-soluble fibers from the
fabric.
[0017] Said further yarn does not necessarily need to be a
substantially inextensible yarn. Alternatively, said further yarn
can be stretch twisted yarn 1 itself. Therefore, in this
hypothesis, the method creates a fabric weave, in which both the
weft threads and the warp threads are made of the aforesaid stretch
twisted yarn 1.
[0018] Thanks to these features, the water-soluble fiber creates a
sort of filling inside a "cage" formed by bundles natural fibers,
thus allowing the yarn to resist weaving tensions. Once the natural
fiber has dissolved, the yarn looses a percentage of weight
amounting to the content of water-soluble fiber and the cavities
formed due to the melting of the water-soluble fibers are then
responsible for an elasticity that allows the natural fibers to be
wound around the elastic yarn, without causing a narrowing.
[0019] Therefore, the aforesaid method reduces the tendency to the
formation of defects in the fabric, maintaining the technical
resistance and improving the elastic recovery capacity of the
fabric.
[0020] For example, as far as the mixed yarn is concerned, the
weight percentage of the water-soluble fibers advantageously,
though not necessarily ranges from 20% to 70% of water-soluble
fibers.
[0021] The method described above produces a natural fiber fabric
with a reduced percentage of synthetic fiber (for example, a weight
percentage substantially ranging from 1% to 5%), though capable of
ensuring ideal elasticity and comfort. This happens without using
further synthetic fibers, thus preserving the look and the features
that are typical of natural fibers when touching them, as wells as
the breathability and the fresh feeling when they are worn.
Furthermore, the method generates a performing fabric, which
fulfills high quality standards. Finally, the aforesaid method
enables a dry spinning with traditional wool or cotton systems,
which, compared to the traditional linen spinning system, permits a
proper distribution of the fibers.
[0022] The plant fibers of the mixed yarn preferably are bast
fibers. More preferably, the bast fibers comprise linen fibers.
[0023] In an explanatory embodiment of the invention, the
water-soluble fibers comprise alginic fibers. In a further
explanatory embodiment of the invention, the water-soluble fibers
comprise synthetic fibers made of polyvinyl alcohol or PVA.
[0024] The substantially inextensible yarn preferably comprises
plant fibers of the same type used for the mixed yarn.
[0025] The substantially inextensible yarn preferably comprises a
single thread made of substantially inextensible plant fibers and a
single thread made of animal fibers, said threads being twisted
together. In particular, the substantially inextensible plant
fibers are bast fibers and, in particular, linen fibers. In
particular, the animal fibers comprise silk fibers. According to a
variant, the substantially inextensible yarn can consist of
substantially inextensible plant fibers, for example of pure bast
fibers, in particular pure linen. According to this variant, the
substantially inextensible yarn can comprise a pair of single
threads made of pure bast fibers, in particular linen fibers,
wherein said single threads are twisted together.
[0026] In the aforesaid method, the weaving is preferably carried
out so that the set of weft threads comprises a plurality of
threads of stretch twisted yarn 1 alternated with a plurality of
threads of the substantially inextensible yarn.
[0027] In the aforesaid method, the weaving is preferably carried
out so that the set of warp threads comprises a plurality of
threads of the substantially inextensible yarn. In particular, the
weaving is carried out so that the set of warp threads comprises a
plurality of threads of stretch twisted yarn 1 alternated with the
plurality of threads of substantially inextensible yarn.
[0028] Preferably, the water-soluble fibers are dissolved from the
fabric by means of a bath in an alkaline solution.
[0029] Therefore, the resulting fabric can preferably be subjected
to possible dyeing and finishing operations, depending on the look
and the coat to be obtained, in particular after thermal fixing and
drying for the stabilization of the elastic yarn.
[0030] Two explanatory embodiments of the invention will be
described hereinafter.
[0031] In a first explanatory embodiment of the invention, the
substantially inextensible yarn comprises a linen thread and a silk
thread, which are twisted together. Furthermore, stretch twisted
yarn 1 comprises a pair of mixed threads 10, 12, wherein there
linen fibers mixed with polyvinyl alcohol or PVA fibers, and an
elastic thread 14, wherein there are polyurethanic fibers.
[0032] In this first embodiment, the set of warp threads consists
of a plurality of threads of the substantially inextensible yarn
(comprising the linen thread and the silk thread twisted together).
Furthermore, the set of weft threads consists of a plurality of
threads of the substantially inextensible yarn (comprising the
linen thread and the silk thread twisted together) alternated with
threads of stretch twisted yarn 1 (comprising the linen/polyvinyl
alcohol mixed thread and the elastic thread of polyurethanic
fibers).
[0033] In a second explanatory embodiment of the invention, the
substantially inextensible yarn comprises a linen thread and a silk
thread, which are twisted together. Furthermore, stretch twisted
yarn 1 comprises a pair of mixed thread 10, 12, wherein there linen
fibers mixed with polyvinyl alcohol or PVA fibers, and an elastic
thread 14, wherein there are polyurethanic fibers.
[0034] In this second embodiment, the set of warp threads consists
of a plurality of threads of the substantially inextensible yarn
(comprising the linen thread and the silk thread twisted together)
alternated with threads of stretch twisted yarn 1 (comprising the
pair of linen/polyvinyl alcohol mixed yarn threads 10, 12 and
elastic thread 14 of polyurethanic fibers). Similarly, the set of
weft threads consists of a plurality of threads of the
substantially inextensible yarn (comprising the linen thread and
the silk thread twisted together) alternated with threads of
stretch twisted yarn 1 (comprising the pair of linen/polyvinyl
alcohol mixed yarn threads 10, 12 and elastic thread 14 of
polyurethanic fibers).
[0035] Alternatively, both in the first explanatory embodiment and
in the second explanatory embodiment, the substantially
inextensible yarn described therein (comprising the linen thread
and the silk thread twisted together) can be replaced with a
substantially inextensible yarn obtained with sole linen fibers,
for example comprising two linen threads twisted together.
[0036] Naturally, the principle of the invention being set forth,
embodiments and implementation details can be widely changed
relative to what described above and shown in the drawings as a
mere way of non-limiting example, without in this way going beyond
the scope of protection provided by the accompanying claims.
[0037] For example, according to the invention, the weaves that can
be used to obtain the fabric according to the invention are
different and it is also possible to manufacture a Jacquard apparel
fabric and knitted fabrics according to the known techniques of the
prior art.
[0038] For example, according to the invention, an orthogonal
fabric or a knitted fabric can be manufactured.
* * * * *