U.S. patent application number 16/955579 was filed with the patent office on 2020-11-12 for process for applying a cosmetic composition comprising a rotary applicator.
The applicant listed for this patent is L'OREAL. Invention is credited to Anne BOUCHARA, Marion FRAICHE, Franck GIRON, Philippe ILEKTI, Nathalie JAGER-LEZER, Alexis LEONARD, Gregory PLOS, Henri SAMAIN.
Application Number | 20200352309 16/955579 |
Document ID | / |
Family ID | 1000004985712 |
Filed Date | 2020-11-12 |
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United States Patent
Application |
20200352309 |
Kind Code |
A1 |
BOUCHARA; Anne ; et
al. |
November 12, 2020 |
PROCESS FOR APPLYING A COSMETIC COMPOSITION COMPRISING A ROTARY
APPLICATOR
Abstract
The invention relates to a process for applying a coating
composition on keratin fibers, comprising the following steps: a)
application of a base composition on the keratin fibers; then b)
application of a coating composition of the base composition on the
keratin fibers, the application of the coating composition
comprising the driving in rotation of an application member with
respect to a gripping member, by displacing the application member
on said keratin fibers, the application member being impregnated
with said coating composition of the base composition.
Inventors: |
BOUCHARA; Anne; (Chevilly La
Rue, FR) ; LEONARD; Alexis; (Clichy, FR) ;
FRAICHE; Marion; (Chevilly La Rue, FR) ; SAMAIN;
Henri; (Bievres, FR) ; GIRON; Franck;
(Chevilly La Rue, FR) ; JAGER-LEZER; Nathalie;
(Chevilly La Rue, FR) ; ILEKTI; Philippe; (Maisons
Alfort, FR) ; PLOS; Gregory; (Chevilly La Rue,
FR) |
|
Applicant: |
Name |
City |
State |
Country |
Type |
L'OREAL |
Paris |
|
FR |
|
|
Family ID: |
1000004985712 |
Appl. No.: |
16/955579 |
Filed: |
December 18, 2018 |
PCT Filed: |
December 18, 2018 |
PCT NO: |
PCT/EP2018/085431 |
371 Date: |
June 18, 2020 |
Current U.S.
Class: |
1/1 |
Current CPC
Class: |
A45D 40/265 20130101;
A45D 40/264 20130101 |
International
Class: |
A45D 40/26 20060101
A45D040/26 |
Foreign Application Data
Date |
Code |
Application Number |
Dec 20, 2017 |
FR |
1762612 |
Claims
1. A process for applying a coating composition on keratin fibers,
comprising the following steps: a) application of a base
composition on the keratin fibers; then b) application of a coating
composition of the base composition on the keratin fibers, the
application of the coating composition comprising the driving in
rotation of an application member with respect to a gripping
member, by displacing the application member on said keratin
fibers, the application member being impregnated with said coating
composition of the base composition.
2. The process according to claim 1, wherein the driving in
rotation of the application organ is carried out about a
longitudinal axis (A) with respect to the gripping member.
3. The process according to claim 2, wherein the application member
comprises at least one first row of pins and at least one second
row of pins, at least one picot of the second row being arranged
axially along the longitudinal axis (A) between two adjacent pins
of the first row.
4. The process according to claim 3, wherein the application member
comprises a third row of pins, each pin of the first row being
axially positioned, along the longitudinal axis (A), at the same
position as a pin of the third row.
5. The process according to claim 4, wherein, in projection in a
plane perpendicular to the longitudinal axis, each pin of the
second row of pins is arranged between pins of the first row and
pins on the third row, preferably in the middle of the pins of the
first row and pins of the third row.
6. The process according to claim 2, wherein the application member
comprises a plurality of rows of pins, each row having at least one
axially positioned pin, along the longitudinal axis (A), at the
same position as a pin of each one of the other rows of pins.
7. The process according to claim 6, wherein each pin of at least
one row of pins is axially positioned, along the longitudinal axis
(A), at the same position as a pin of each one of the other rows of
pins.
8. The process according to claim 3, wherein the rows of pins
extend parallel to the longitudinal axis (A).
9. The process according to claim 1, wherein the application member
is made of elastomer.
10. The process according to claim 1, wherein the base composition
has a content in dry extract greater than or equal to 35%.
11. The process according to claim 1, wherein the coating
composition has a content in dry extract greater than or equal to
40%.
12. The process according to claim 1, wherein the base composition
according to the invention and the coating composition according to
the invention comprise an aqueous phase, preferably each one
comprising at least 30% by weight of water with respect to the
total weight of the composition.
13. The process according to claim 1, wherein the base composition
and the coating composition comprise at least one surfactant and/or
at least one fatty phase.
14. The process according to claim 1, wherein the base composition
and the coating composition according to the invention comprise at
least one dye.
15. The process according to claim 1, wherein the base composition
and the coating composition comprise at least one dye chosen from
powder materials, liposoluble dyes and water-soluble dyes.
16. The process according to claim 4, wherein the rows of pins
extend parallel to the longitudinal axis (A).
17. The process according to claim 5, wherein the rows of pins
extend parallel to the longitudinal axis (A).
18. The process according to claim 6, wherein the rows of pins
extend parallel to the longitudinal axis (A).
19. The process according to claim 7, wherein the rows of pins
extend parallel to the longitudinal axis (A).
20. The process according to claim 2, wherein the application
member is made of elastomer
Description
[0001] This invention has for object a process for applying
compositions on keratin fibers.
[0002] Conventional make-up compositions for the eyes, also called
"mascaras" for eyelashes, usually have a pasty texture and are
packaged in a receptacle comprising a reservoir provided with a
squeezing device and an application member, in particular in the
form of a brush or a comb, and are applied by sampling the product
in the reservoir using the application member, passing of the
application member through the squeezing device in order to remove
the excess product, then putting the application member impregnated
with mascara in contact with the eyelashes.
[0003] It is generally through their formulation, and in particular
the qualitative and quantitative choice of the waxes and optional
polymers, that the sought properties for the mascaras are adjusted,
such as for example their fluidity, their lengthening power and/or
their curling power. Thus, it is possible to carry out various
compositions that, applied in particular on the eyelashes, induce
varied effects of the lengthening, curling and/or thickening
(loading effect) type of the eyelashes.
[0004] With the makeup compositions currently available, these
effects are generally obtained by overlaying several layers of
makeup composition on the eyelashes.
[0005] However, certain effects, such as for example particular
color effects, cannot be achieved with a conventional mascara for
the effective accumulation of several layers of mascara, in
particular of different compositions.
[0006] There is therefore a need for compositions that, when they
are applied on the eyelashes with the suitable application member,
make it possible to effectively accumulate layers, while keeping
intact the first layer (i.e. without pulling it off or damaging
it), or mixing the layers together. There is furthermore a need for
a makeup process for eyelashes that makes it possible to obtain
particular, in particular color, effects. Such effects are in
particular an overlaying of mascaras of two different colors
without mixing them, or a deposit of a coating layer
discontinuously on a first layer, in order to view said first
layer.
[0007] The inventors discovered that the properties described
hereinabove can be obtained by using a process comprising firstly
the application of a composition with a keratin fiber base; then
the application of a coating composition of the composition with a
keratin fiber base, the application of the coating composition
comprising the driving in rotation of an application member with
respect to a gripping member, by displacing the application member
on said keratin fibers, the application member being impregnated
with said coating composition of the base composition.
[0008] Indeed, the application of the aforementioned coating
composition with an application member in free rotation with
respect to the gripping member, makes it possible to deposit
successive layers, without the need of waiting for the first layer
(i.e. of the base composition) to be dry. This accumulation of
layers makes it possible to obtain effects that are not achieved
with the conventional application of several layers of products and
this in a practical manner, by successively applying, without
waiting time, the base composition layer and the coating
composition layer.
[0009] Furthermore, the application of the aforementioned coating
composition with an application member in free rotation with
respect to the gripping member, makes it possible to keep the first
layer intact. A multi-layer deposit without mixing different layers
together is as such obtained.
[0010] More precisely, the invention has for object a process for
applying a coating composition on keratin fibers, comprising the
following steps:
[0011] a) application of a base composition on the keratin fibers;
then
[0012] b) application of a coating composition of the base
composition on the keratin fibers, the application of the coating
composition comprising the driving in rotation of an application
member with respect to a gripping member, by displacing the
application member on said keratin fibers, the application member
being impregnated with said coating composition of the base
composition.
[0013] The method according to the invention comprises one or more
of the following features, taken alone or in any technically
possible combination: [0014] the driving in rotation of the
application organ is carried out about a longitudinal axis with
respect to the gripping member; [0015] the application member
comprises at least one first row of pins and at least one second
row of pins, at least one picot of the second row being arranged
axially along the longitudinal axis between two adjacent pins of
the first row; [0016] the application member comprises a third row
of pins, each pin of the first row being axially positioned, along
the longitudinal axis, at the same position as a pin of the third
row; [0017] in projection in a plane perpendicular to the
longitudinal axis, each pin of the second row of pins is arranged
between pins of the first row and pins on the third row, preferably
in the middle of the pins of the first row and pins of the third
row; [0018] the application member comprises a plurality of rows of
pins, each row having at least one axially positioned pin, along
the longitudinal axis, at the same position as a pin of each one of
the other rows of pins; [0019] each pin of at least one row of pins
is axially positioned, along the longitudinal axis, at the same
position as a pin of each one of the other rows of pins; [0020] the
rows of pins extend parallel to the longitudinal axis; [0021] the
application member is made of elastomer; [0022] each pin of the
second row is located midway axially along the longitudinal axis of
two adjacent pins of the first row; [0023] the difference between
two adjacent pins of the same row is identical for all of the pins
of the row and for all of the rows; [0024] the pins have the same
height, the difference between two adjacent pins of the same row
being between 1% and 10% of the height of the pins, said difference
being taken on an outer surface of a support body on which the rows
of pins are added; [0025] the pins have the same height, the
difference between a pin of the second row and at least one pin of
the first row being less than 10% of the height of the pins, said
difference being taken on an outer surface of a support body on
which the rows of pins are added; [0026] the base composition has a
content in dry extract greater than or equal to 35%, preferably
greater than 37%, better greater than or equal to 40%, even better,
greater than 41%, even better, greater than 43%, able to range up
to 60%, [0027] the coating composition has a content in dry extract
greater than or equal to 40%, preferably greater than 41%, even
better, greater than 42%, able to range up to 60%, [0028] the base
composition according to the invention and/or the coating
composition according to the invention comprise an aqueous phase,
preferably comprise at least 30% by weight of water with respect to
the total weight of the composition, [0029] the aqueous phases of
the base composition and of the coating composition comprise a
mixture of water and water-miscible solvent, in particular chosen
from lower monoalcohols having from 1 to 5 carbon atoms such as
ethanol, isopropanol, glycols having from 2 to 8 carbon atoms such
as propylene glycol, ethylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol,
dipropylene glycol, C3-C4 ketones, C2-C4 aldehydes and mixtures
thereof, [0030] the base composition and/or the coating composition
comprise at least one surfactant, and/or at least one fatty phase,
and/or at least one dye, preferably a dye chosen from powder
materials, liposoluble dyes and water-soluble dyes.
APPLICATOR
[0031] The description of a requisite for application able to
implement the process for applying according to the invention given
solely as an example, is done in reference to the accompanying
drawings, wherein:
[0032] FIG. 1 is a diagrammatical view as a longitudinal
cross-section of a device for a packaging and application device
for a coating composition of the base composition of a requisite
according to the invention, with the applicator being mounted onto
the receptacle;
[0033] FIG. 2 is a diagrammatical view as a longitudinal
cross-section showing a first linear contact region between the rod
carrier and the gripping member of the device in FIG. 1;
[0034] FIG. 3 is a diagrammatical view as a longitudinal
cross-section of a second linear contact region between the rod
carrier and the gripping member of the device in FIG. 1;
[0035] FIG. 4 is a diagrammatical view as a transverse
cross-section of contact tongues defining the second contact region
of the device in FIG. 1;
[0036] FIG. 5 is a diagrammatic view in elevation of the rod
carrier of the device in FIG. 1;
[0037] FIG. 6 is an outside diagrammatical view of the gripping
member of the device of FIG. 1;
[0038] FIG. 7 is a sectional diagrammatical view along a median
plane of the gripping member of the device in FIG. 1;
[0039] FIG. 8 is a diagrammatical view in perspective of a first
application member of the packaging device of FIG. 1;
[0040] FIG. 9 is an axial diagrammatical view of the application
member of the device of FIG. 8;
[0041] FIG. 10 is a diagrammatical view in perspective of a second
application member of the packaging device of FIG. 1; and
[0042] FIGS. 11 and 12 are photos showing the results of a
comparative example between a process for applying according to the
invention and a process using only one non-rotary applicator.
[0043] A requisite for application according to the invention
comprises a system for applying able to apply a base composition on
keratin fibers, and a device 10 for packaging and applying a
coating composition of the base composition on keratin fibers.
[0044] Said system for applying typically comprises a receptacle
intended to contain the base composition, and an applicator. The
system for applying is for example identical to the device 10
described in what follows.
[0045] The base composition shall be described following the
description of the requisite for application.
[0046] A first embodiment of the device 10 for packaging and
applying a coating composition of the base composition is shown in
FIGS. 1 to 9.
[0047] The device 10 comprises a receptacle 12 intended to contain
the coating composition of the base composition, and an applicator
14 removably mounted on the receptacle 12 and able to apply the
coating composition of the base composition.
[0048] The keratin fibers are typically eyelashes. The coating
composition of the base composition is then a coating composition
of eyelashes. This coating composition of eyelashes shall be
described following the description of the requisite for
application.
[0049] The device 10 advantageously has a generally cylindrical
shape extending along a longitudinal axis A. The terms
"longitudinal" and "radial" generally mean in relation to the
longitudinal axis A.
[0050] In reference to FIG. 1, the receptacle 12 comprises a hollow
body 26, able to contain the coating composition, and a threaded
neck 30 protruding outwards from the body 26 by defining an access
opening 28 for the product.
[0051] The receptacle 12 also comprises a squeezing device 32
inserted into the neck 30.
[0052] The applicator 14 comprises a gripping member 16, extending
along the longitudinal axis A, a rod carrier 18, arranged in the
gripping member 16 and mounted freely mobile in rotation about the
longitudinal axis A with respect to the gripping member 16.
[0053] The applicator 14 also comprises a blocking device 19 that
opposes the translation along the axis A of the rod carrier 18 with
respect to the gripping member 16, a rod 20 integral with the rod
carrier 18, a system for the selective blocking in rotation 24 of
the rod carrier 18 with respect to the gripping member 16, and a
first application member 22A of the coating composition (FIGS. 8
and 9) carried by the rod 20.
[0054] The applicator 14 is mounted mobile between an idle
position, wherein is mounted on the recipient 12, the rod 20 and
the first application member 22A being engaged at least partially
in the receptacle 12, and a usage position, in which the rod 20 and
the first application member 22A are extracted outside of the
receptacle 12.
[0055] In the idle position, the applicator 14 is maintained fixed
on the receptacle 12 for example by screwing on the neck 30.
[0056] The gripping member 16 comprises a cover 34 and a plug 36,
with the plug 36 here added on the cover 34.
[0057] The cover 34 has a shape of revolution about the
longitudinal axis A. It is for example cylindrical.
[0058] The cover 34 comprises a peripheral wall 38 about the
longitudinal axis A. It extends between a distal edge 40 intended
to be placed facing the receptacle 12 in an idle position of the
applicator 14, and a proximal edge 42 intended to be placed apart
from the receptacle 12 in the idle position of the applicator
14.
[0059] The cover 34 is hollow, and defines an inner surface 44 that
delimits an inner volume 46.
[0060] In the vicinity of the proximal edge 42 of the cover 34, the
inner surface 44 of the cover 34 has a circumferential shoulder 50
of the bearing of the plug 36, shown in FIG. 2, and a protrusion 52
for maintaining the plug 36 in position against the shoulder
50.
[0061] In reference to FIGS. 3 and 4, the cover 34 comprises a
transverse wall 54, that extends radially from the inner surface 44
of the cover 34.
[0062] The transverse wall 54 is arranged longitudinally apart from
the proximal edge 42. It defines a plurality of radial slots
56.
[0063] The radial slots 56 delimit between them at least two
contact tongues 58. The gripping member 16 here comprises three
contact tongues 58.
[0064] Each tongue 58 radially protrudes from the peripheral wall
38, and more precisely, from the inner surface 44 of the cover
34.
[0065] Each tongue 58 defines a free inside edge 60, directed
towards the longitudinal axis A. The free edge 60 has an inner
chamfer that converges towards the axis A in the direction away
from the rod 20 to the plug 36.
[0066] In FIG. 2, the plug 36 is securely fastened to the cover 34.
It closes the cover 34 on its proximal edge 42.
[0067] The plug 36 comprises a sealing wall 62, a peripheral ring
64 for mounting in the cover 34 and an inner sleeve 66 for guiding
the rod carrier 18.
[0068] The peripheral ring 64 protrudes from the periphery of a
distal face 70 of the sealing wall 62.
[0069] The peripheral ring 64 comprises at least one attaching stop
72, for example four attaching stops 72 distributed angularly about
the longitudinal axis A.
[0070] The peripheral ring 64 is arranged in abutment against the
shoulder 50 of the cover 34. Each attaching stop 72 cooperates with
the protrusion 52, in order to removably immobilize the plug 36
with respect to the cover 34 and provide an aesthetic aspect.
[0071] A proximal face 68 of the sealing wall 62 is flush with the
proximal edge 42 of the cover 34.
[0072] The inner sleeve 66 protrudes longitudinally in the cover 34
from the distal face 70 of the sealing wall 62.
[0073] The inner sleeve 66 delimits an internal cavity 74 and a
bulge 76 that protrudes radially towards the longitudinal axis A in
the internal cavity 74.
[0074] The inner sleeve 66 is for example made of acrylonitrile
butadiene styrene (ABS), polyoxymethylene (POM), polyethylene (PE),
or polypropylene (PP).
[0075] The rod carrier 18 is for example made from polybutylene
terephthalate (PBT), polyoxymethylene (POM) or polypropylene
(PP).
[0076] The rod carrier 18 comprises a longitudinal guiding segment
78, extending between a proximal end 80 and a distal end 82, and a
head 84 for mounting on the receptacle 12.
[0077] The longitudinal segment 78 extends in the internal volume
46 along the longitudinal axis A. The proximal end 80 is received
in the internal cavity 74 defined by the inner sleeve 66.
[0078] The rod carrier 18 as such has, on the bulge 76, a first
linear contact region 86 with the gripping member 16. The first
linear contact region 86 is a circumferential linear contact region
about the longitudinal axis A.
[0079] In the example shown, the bulge 76 is continuous in the
circumferential direction. The first linear contact region 86 of
the rod carrier 18 is as such also continuous in the
circumferential direction. Alternatively, the bulge 76 and/or the
rod carrier in the first linear contact region is (are)
discontinuous in the circumferential direction. The first linear
contact region 86 of the rod carrier 18 is as such advantageously
discontinuous in the circumferential direction.
[0080] The longitudinal segment 78 has, on the first contact region
86, a maximum diameter D1. The maximum diameter D1 is,
advantageously between 1.5 mm and 5 mm, in particular between 2.0
mm and 3 mm.
[0081] The longitudinal segment 78 also defines a circumferential
groove 88 about the longitudinal axis A opening radially opposite
the longitudinal axis A.
[0082] As can be seen in FIG. 3, the longitudinal segment 78
comprises, at its distal end 82, a flared portion 89A that has an
outer chamfer 89B. The circumferential groove 88 is defined in the
flared portion 89A of the longitudinal segment 78, between the
outer chamfer 89B and the head for mounting 84.
[0083] The circumferential groove 88 receives the free edge 60 of
each contact tongue 58 of the gripping member 16.
[0084] The contact tongues 58 facilitate the assembly of the rod
carrier 18 with the gripping member 16, via their snap-fitting into
the circumferential groove 88. This assembly is easily obtained by
relative translation along the axis A of the gripping member 16
with respect to the rod carrier 18, generating an axial deformation
of the contact tongues 56. The cooperation between the inner
chamfer on the free end 60 of each contact tongue 58 and the outer
chamfer 89B facilitates the snap-fitting.
[0085] The longitudinal extend of the groove 88, taken along the
axis A, is greater than the longitudinal extent of the free edge
60, taken along the same axis A by at least 10%.
[0086] As such, the rod carrier 18 has, on the free edge 60 of each
contact tongue 58, a second linear contact region 90 with the
gripping member 16. The second linear contact region 90 is a
circumferential linear contact region.
[0087] In the example shown, the contact tongues 58 are
discontinuous in the circumferential direction by being separated
from each other by the slots 56. The second linear contact region
90 of the rod carrier 18 is as such also continuous in the
circumferential direction. Alternatively, the rod carrier 18 has a
contact tongue 58 that is continuous in the circumferential
direction forming a continuous annular flange, made of a flexible
material in order to allow for the snap-fitting of the rod carrier
or associated with a washer for blocking in translation along the
axis A integral with the rod carrier 18. Those skilled in the art
will be able to determine the material to be chosen for the contact
tongue 58 in order to have sufficient flexibility to allow for the
snap-fitting of the rod carrier 18, according to the material
chosen for the latter. The second linear contact region 90 of the
rod carrier 18 is as such also continuous in the circumferential
direction.
[0088] The first linear contact region 86 and the second linear
contact region 90 are separated by a minimum distance I. The
minimum distance I is, for example, greater than 20 mm and is
preferably between 23 mm and 60 mm.
[0089] The minimum distance I is greater than or equal to two times
the average diameter between the diameter D1 of the rod carrier 18
in the first linear contact region 86 and the diameter of the rod
carrier 18 in the second linear contact region 90.
[0090] The first linear contact region 86 has a contact length 11
taken along the longitudinal axis A less than 5%, preferably less
than 2% of the minimum distance I separating along the axis A the
first linear contact region 86 and the second linear contact region
90.
[0091] Advantageously, the contact length 11 is less than 5%,
preferably less than 2% of the diameter D1 of the longitudinal
segment 78 taken on the first contact region 86.
[0092] The contact length 11 is as such less than 1 mm, and
preferably between 0.05 mm and 0.5 mm.
[0093] Likewise, the second linear contact region 90 has a contact
length 12 taken along the longitudinal axis A less than 5%,
preferably less than 2% of the minimum distance I separating along
the axis A the first linear contact region 86 and the second linear
contact region 90.
[0094] On the second contact region 90, the circumferential groove
88 has a maximum diameter D2. The maximum diameter D2 is, for
example, between 5.50 mm and 6 mm.
[0095] Advantageously, the contact length 12 is less than 5%,
preferably less than 2% of the maximum diameter D2 of the
circumferential groove 88 taken on the second contact region
90.
[0096] The contact length 12 is as such less than 1 mm, and
preferably between 0.05 mm and 0.5 mm.
[0097] Advantageously, the contact regions 86, 90 are adapted so
that, when a mechanical stress, resulting in a motion with respect
to the longitudinal axis A, is applied on the first application
member 22A, a rotation of the rod 20 and of the rod carrier 18 with
respect to the gripping member 16 is obtained as soon as the motion
crosses a limit value.
[0098] The longitudinal segment 78 has an intermediate region 92,
shown in FIG. 1, defined between the first linear contact region 86
and the second linear contact region 90.
[0099] In the intermediate region 92, the rod carrier 18 is
arranged entirely separated from the gripping member 16. More
particularly, in the intermediate region 92, the rod carrier 18 and
the gripping member 16 define a radial gap, measured
perpendicularly to the longitudinal axis A, at least equal to 5%,
preferably at least equal to 10%, and more preferably at least
equal to 50% of the maximum thickness presented by the rod carrier
18, over at least 50% of the length of the intermediate region 92
taken along the longitudinal axis A.
[0100] The rod carrier 18 and the gripping member 16 have a
functional radial gap between them in the first circumferential
linear contact region 86 and/or in the second circumferential
linear contact region 90.
[0101] Preferably, this functional radial gap is less than 0.5 mm,
and more preferably less than 0.2 mm and in particular in the
neighborhood of 0.1 mm. As such, when the rod carrier 18 and the
gripping member 16 are placed coaxially to one another, such as
shown in FIGS. 1 to 3, a gap in the radial direction exists on
either side of the rod carrier 18, between the rod carrier 18 and
the gripping member 16, in the first circumferential linear contact
region 86 and/or in the second circumferential linear contact
region 90, with this gap substantially corresponding to half of the
aforementioned functional radial gap.
[0102] Advantageously, in the intermediate region 92, the rod
carrier 18 and the gripping member 16 define a radial gap, i.e. a
gap in the radial direction, greater than or equal to 1.1 times,
preferably 1.5 times, the functional radial gap defined between the
rod carrier 18 and the gripping member 16 in the first
circumferential linear contact region 86 and/or in the second
circumferential linear contact region 90, over at least 50% of the
length of the intermediate region 92 taken along the longitudinal
axis A. The term "radial gap" in the intermediate region 92 between
the rod carrier 18 and the gripping member 16 here means the
distance in the radial direction that separates the rod carrier 18
and the gripping member 16 on the intermediate region 92, when
these two elements are arranged coaxially. As such, if the
functional radial gap between the rod carrier 18 and the gripping
member 16 in the first circumferential linear contact region 86
and/or in the second circumferential linear contact region 90 is
for example 0.1 mm, then the radial gap between the rod carrier 18
and the gripping member 16 in the intermediate region 92, on one
side and the other of the longitudinal axis A when the rod carrier
18 and the gripping member 16 are arranged coaxially, is greater
than or equal to 0.11 mm, and preferably greater than or equal to
0.15 mm.
[0103] In reference to FIG. 3, the head for mounting 84 of the rod
carrier 18 comprises a central ring 93 for fastening the rod 20 and
a connecting skirt 94 protruding around the central ring 93. The
connecting skirt 94 extends to the distal edge 40 of the cover 34,
from the distal end 82 of the longitudinal segment 78.
[0104] The inner surface 96 of the connecting ring 94 is threaded,
and is able to cooperate with the threading present on the neck 30
of the receptacle 12.
[0105] The connecting skirt 94 also comprises a longitudinal
protrusion 100, that can be seen in FIG. 5, able to cooperate with
a stop 102 of the receptacle 12, which can be seen in FIG. 3, in
order to ensure the blocking in rotation of the rod carrier 18 with
respect to the receptacle 12 in idle position.
[0106] The ring 94 and the longitudinal segment 78 define a central
housing 104. In the example of FIG. 3, the central housing 104
extends to the proximal end 80 of the rod carrier 18 until a bottom
106, arranged longitudinally beyond the circumferential groove 88
of the longitudinal segment 78.
[0107] The blocking device 19 is configured to limit the relative
translation along the axis A of the rod carrier with respect to the
gripping member to a functional gap between these elements. This
functional gap is preferably less than 2 mm, in particular less
than 1 mm and in particular in the neighborhood of 0.7 mm, even in
the neighborhood of 0.5 mm.
[0108] The blocking device 19 comprises a first axial stop surface
108A formed on the rod carrier 18, and a second axial stop surface
1088 formed by the gripping member 16.
[0109] Preferably, the first and second axial stop surfaces 108A,
1088 are adjacent along the axis A at one at least of the first and
second contact regions 86, 90.
[0110] In the example in FIG. 3, they are adjacent to the second
contact region 90. The first axial stop surface 108A is as such
formed by a shoulder defined in the flared portion 89A by the
circumferential groove 88, and the second stop surface 108B is
formed by a proximal surface of the transverse wall 54 of the cover
34, on the free edge 60.
[0111] The rod 20 is added in the central housing 104.
[0112] The system for the selective blocking in rotation 24 of the
rod carrier 18 with respect to the gripping member 16 is shown in
FIGS. 5 to 7.
[0113] The blocking system 24 can be maneuvered between an inactive
configuration, in which the rod carrier 18 is freely rotating about
the longitudinal axis A, and an active configuration, in which the
rod carrier 18 is entirely blocked in rotation with respect to the
gripping member 16. The term total blocking here means a "frank"
contact of elements abutting against one another, and not only a
friction contact.
[0114] The blocking system 24 comprises splines 112 formed on the
rod carrier 18, and at least one flexible tab 114 able to cooperate
with the splines 112. It comprises, for each flexible tab 114, a
flexible hinge 116 for connecting the flexible tab 114 to the cover
34 of the gripping member 16.
[0115] The or each flexible tab 114, the flexible hinge 116 and the
cover 34 are advantageously from the same material.
[0116] The splines 112, which can be seen in FIG. 5, are arranged
on an external peripheral surface of the rod carrier 18. In
particular, the splines 112 are arranged on an outer surface 98 of
the connecting ring 94 of the rod carrier 18.
[0117] In the example of FIGS. 6 and 7, the blocking system 24
comprises two flexible tabs 114 diametrically opposite with respect
to the axis A.
[0118] Each flexible tab 114 is mounted mobile on the gripping
member 16.
[0119] It is defined by a cut made through the gripping member 16.
The cut is here of a rounded shape, for example in the shape of a
C.
[0120] Each flexible tab 114 comprises at least one locking cog 118
radially protruding towards the axis A. The locking cog 118 is able
to be inserted into a spline 112 in the active configuration of
blocking, in order to block the rod carrier 18 in rotation with
respect to the gripping member 16. It is arranged entirely apart
from the splines 112 in the deactivated configuration.
[0121] The first application member 22A is also designated by the
term "brush" in what follows. Preferably, the first application
member 22A is made of elastomer.
[0122] The first application member 22A is fixed to the free end of
the rod 20.
[0123] It is able to be driven in rotation by keratin fibers, in
particular about the longitudinal axis A, with respect to the
gripping member 16.
[0124] As shown in FIGS. 8 and 9, the first application member 22A
comprises a support body 120 and a plurality of pins 122 formed on
an outer surface 124 of the support body 120, the pins 122 being
formed on the outer surface 124 in the form of rows.
[0125] The first application member 22A advantageously has an axial
symmetry along the longitudinal axis A.
[0126] The first application member 22A comprises an even number of
rows of pins.
[0127] The number of rows of pins is here equal to 12.
Alternatively, the number of rows of pins is greater than or equal
to 8, and advantageously between 8 and 16.
[0128] The support body 120 has a substantially circular section
transversal to the longitudinal axis A.
[0129] The transversal section of the support body 120 has a
diameter between 1.5 mm and 4 mm.
[0130] The support body 120 is made of elastomer. Alternatively,
the support body 120 is for example made of hytrel, SEBS or
polypropylene (PP).
[0131] Each pin 122 has a substantially conical shape of
revolution.
[0132] On the outer surface 124 of the support body 120, each pin
122 has a section with a diameter between 0.1 mm and 1 mm.
[0133] The pins 122 of the same row have the same section taken on
the outer surface 124 of the support body 120. More generally, all
of the pins 122 of the first application member 22A have the same
section taken on the outer surface 124 of the support body 120.
[0134] Each pin 122 has a height greater than 2 mm, advantageously
between 1.5 mm and 5 mm.
[0135] The pins 122 of the same row have an identical height. More
generally, all of the pins 122 of the first application member 22A
have an identical height.
[0136] Each pin 122 extends from the outer surface 124 along a
predetermined direction perpendicular to the longitudinal axis A.
The predetermined direction of a pin is a straight line passing
through the middle of any section of said pin parallel to the
longitudinal axis A.
[0137] The pins 122 of the same row have predetermined parallel
directions.
[0138] Each pin 122 is as a single piece with the support body 120,
each pin 122 is then made of elastomer. Alternatively at least one
portion of the pins 122 is made from a material different from that
of the support body 120 by overmolding on the support body 120.
[0139] Each row of pins extends parallel to the longitudinal axis
A.
[0140] Each row of pins has a length greater than 2 mm.
[0141] Each row of pins comprises a number of pins 122 greater than
20 and advantageously between 30 and 50.
[0142] The difference between two adjacent pins of the same row is
identical for all of the pins of said row. Two pins of the same row
are considered to be adjacent if no pin of said row is arranged
between these two pins.
[0143] The difference between two adjacent pins of the same row is
between 1% and 10% of the height of the pins 122.
[0144] The difference between two adjacent pins of the same row is
identical for all of the rows of the first application member
22A.
[0145] A first row 126 of pins is arranged adjacent to a second row
128 of pins, and a third row 130 of pins is arranged adjacent to
the second row 128 of pins. Two rows of pins are considered to be
adjacent if no row of pins is arranged between these two rows.
[0146] As shown in FIG. 8, preferably, the second row 128 of pins
comprises one pin 122 less than the first row 126 of pins. The
first row 126 of pins and the third row 130 of pins comprise the
same number of pins 122. They comprise here 21 pins.
[0147] More generally, two rows of the first application member 22A
separated by a single row of pins comprise the same number of pins
122.
[0148] In particular, the second row 128 comprises a number of pins
equal to the number of pins 122 of the rows adjacent to the first
row 126 and to the third row 130. These rows here comprise 20
pins.
[0149] Preferably, according to a first embodiment, at least one
pin of the second row 128 is arranged axially along the
longitudinal axis A between two adjacent pins of the first row
126.
[0150] In particular, all of the pins 122 of the first row 126 are
axially offset along the longitudinal axis A relative to the pins
122 of the second row 128 by a predetermined distance taken on the
outer surface 124 of the support body 120.
[0151] The predetermined distance is greater than 1% of the height
of the pins 122.
[0152] In the example shown in FIG. 8, each pin of the second row
128 is located midway axially along the longitudinal axis A of two
adjacent pins 122 of the first row 126.
[0153] In other terms, the predetermined distance is substantially
equal to half the sum of the diameter of a pin and of the
difference between two adjacent pins 122, said difference and said
diameter being taken on the outer surface 124 of the support body
120.
[0154] The predetermined directions of the pins 122 of the second
row 128 are contained in the angular sector defined by the
predetermined directions of the pins 122 of the first row 126 and
the predetermined directions of the pins 122 of the third row
130.
[0155] Each pin 122 of the first row 126 is axially positioned,
along the longitudinal axis A, at the same position as a pin of the
third row 130. In other terms, the third row 130 is not axially
offset with respect to the first row 126.
[0156] More generally, two rows of the first application member 22A
separated by a single row of pins 122 are not axially offset with
respect to one another.
[0157] In particular, each pin of the second row 128 is as such
axially positioned, along the longitudinal axis A, at the same
position as a pin of the rows adjacent to the first row 126 and to
the third row 130.
[0158] The distance, taken on the outer surface 124, between a pin
of the first row 126 and at least one pin of the third row 130 is
less than 30% of the height of the pins 122.
[0159] As shown in FIG. 9, the distance between a pin of the first
row 126 and the pin of the third row 130 axially positioned at the
same position is less than the diameter of the section of the pins
122, said distance and said section being taken on the outer
surface 124.
[0160] In projection in a plane perpendicular to the longitudinal
axis (A), each pin of the second row 128 of pins is arranged
between pins of the first row 126 and pins on the third row 130,
preferably in the middle of the pins of the first row 126 and pins
of the third row 130.
[0161] More precisely, in projection in a plane perpendicular to
the longitudinal axis A, the predetermined direction of each pin of
the second row 128 is the bisector of the angle formed between the
predetermined direction of a pin of the first row 126 and the
predetermined direction of a pin of the third row 130.
[0162] In other words, each pin of the second row 128 is arranged
staggered with two adjacent pins of the first row 126 and two
adjacent pin of the third row 130.
[0163] More generally, each pin of a row that has one pin less than
its adjacent rows, is arranged staggered with two adjacent pins of
one of its rows and two adjacent pins of the other of its adjacent
rows.
[0164] Even more generally, even if the structure of the rod
carrier 18 is different from that shown in the figures, the rod
carrier 18 has at least two linear contact regions with the
gripping member providing a free rotation and guided with respect
to the gripping member.
Base Composition and Coating Composition of the Base
Composition
[0165] The base composition is also called eyelash makeup base or
"base coat" in this application.
[0166] The coating composition of the base composition is a
composition to be applied on a mascara, also called "top coat" in
this application.
[0167] The base composition and the coating composition of the base
composition, according to the invention, each comprise a
physiologically acceptable medium, i.e. a non-toxic medium and able
to be applied on keratin fibers, in particular the eyelashes, in
particular compatible with the eye area. The bas composition and
the coating composition of the base composition, according to the
invention, are preferably each a mascara.
[0168] The term "mascara" denotes a composition intended to be
applied on the eyelashes: this can be an eyelash makeup
composition, or a cosmetic treatment composition of the
eyelashes.
[0169] Preferably, the coating composition according to the
invention provides the makeup with specific properties. For
example, this coating composition can comprise at least one dye, in
order to provide specific color effects. It can also comprise at
least one film-forming polymer, in order to provide the makeup with
stability.
[0170] The base composition and/or the coating composition
according to the invention can comprise an aqueous phase.
[0171] As such, this invention comprises a base composition
comprising an aqueous phase, and a coating phase also comprising an
aqueous phase.
[0172] Preferably, the base composition according to the invention
has a dry extract content greater than or equal to 35%.
[0173] Preferably, the coating composition according to the
invention has a dry extract content greater than or equal to
40%.
[0174] In terms of this invention, the term "dry extract content"
means the content in non-volatile matter.
Protocol for Measuring the Dry Matter or Dry Extract Content
[0175] The quantity of dry extract of a composition according to
the invention is measured using a commercial halogen dessicator
"HALOGEN MOISTURE ANALYZER HR 73" from METTLER TOLEDO. The
measurement is taken based on the loss of weight of a sample dried
by halogen heating and therefore represents the percentage of
residual material once the water and volatile materials have
evaporated.
[0176] This technique is described perfectly in the documentation
of the device supplied by METTLER TOLEDO.
[0177] The measurement protocol is as follows:
[0178] About 2 g of the composition, hereinafter the sample, are
spread over a metal cup which is inserted into the halogen
dessicator mentioned hereinabove. The sample is then subjected to a
temperature of 105.degree. C. until a constant weight is obtained.
The Wet Mass of the sample, corresponding to its initial mass, and
the Dry Mass of the sample, corresponding to its mass after halogen
heating, are measured using a precision balance.
[0179] The experimental error linked to the measurement is about
plus or minus 2%.
[0180] The Dry Extract content is calculated in the following
way:
Dry Extract content (expressed as a % by weight)=100.times.(Dry
Mass/Wet Mass).
[0181] Preferably, the base composition according to the invention
has a content in dry extract greater than or equal to 35%,
preferably greater than 37%, better greater than or equal to 40%,
even better, greater than 41%, even better, greater than 43%, able
to range up to 60%.
[0182] Preferably, the coating composition according to the
invention has a content in dry extract greater than or equal to
40%, preferably greater than 41%, even better, greater than 42%,
able to range up to 60%.
Aqueous Phase
[0183] The base composition according to the invention and/or the
coating composition according to the invention comprise an aqueous
phase. Preferably, the base composition according to the invention
and the coating composition according to the invention each
comprise an aqueous phase. Preferably, they also each comprise at
least 30% by weight of water with respect to the total weight of
the composition.
[0184] Preferably, the base composition according to the invention
and the coating composition according to the invention each
comprise a continuous aqueous phase. The term "continuous" aqueous
phase means that the composition has a conductivity, measured at
25.degree. C., greater than 23 .mu.S/cm (microSiemens/cm), with the
conductivity being measured for example using a Mettler Toledo
MPC227 conductometer and an Inlab730 conductivity measuring cell.
The measuring cell is immersed in the composition, in such a way as
to remove air bubbles that can form between the two electrodes of
the cell. Reading the conductivity is done as soon as the value of
the conductometer has stabilized. An average is taken over at least
three successive measurements.
[0185] The aqueous phase can be comprised primarily of water; it
can also comprise a mixture of water and water-miscible solvent
(miscibility in water greater than 50% by weight at 25.degree. C.)
such as lower monoalcohols having from 1 to 5 carbon atoms such as
ethanol, isopropanol, glycols having from 2 to 8 carbon atoms such
as propylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol,
dipropylene glycol, C3-C4 ketones, C2-C4 aldehydes and mixtures
thereof.
[0186] Preferably, the aqueous phase (water and possibly the
water-miscible solvent) is present in each composition in a content
at least equal to 40% by weight with respect to the total weight of
the composition, preferably at least equal to 43% by weight,
preferably at least equal to 45% by weight.
[0187] Preferably, the aqueous phase (water and possibly the
water-miscible solvent) is present in each composition in a content
between 40% and 65% by weight of the total weight of the
composition, preferably between 43% and 60% by weight, preferably
between 45% and 60% by weight.
[0188] Preferably, each aqueous phase comprises at least 40% by
weight of water with respect to the total weight of the
composition.
Gelling Agents of the Aqueous Phase
[0189] The base composition according to the invention and/or the
coating composition according to the invention can comprise a
gelling agent of the aqueous phase.
[0190] The gelling agents of the aqueous phase that can be used can
be chosen from: [0191] homo- or copolymers of acrylic or
methacrylic acids or the salts thereof and the esters thereof and
in particular the products sold under the trade names VERSICOL
F.RTM. or VERSICOL K.RTM. by the company ALLIED COLLOID, UTRAHOLD
8.RTM. by the company CIBA-GEIGY, polyacrylic acids of the
SYNTHALEN K type, [0192] acrylic and acrylamide acid copolymers
sold in the form of their sodium salt under the names RETEN.RTM. by
HERCULES, sodium polymethacrylate sold under the name DARVAN No
7.RTM. by VANDERBILT, the sodium salts of polyhydroxycarboxylic
acids sold under the name HYDAGEN F.RTM. by HENKEL, [0193]
polyacrylic acid/alkyl acrylate copolymers of the PEMULEN type,
[0194] AMPS (Polyacrylamidomethyl propane sulfonic acid partially
neutralized with ammonia and highly cross-linked) marketed by the
company CLARIANT, as well as AMPS/acrylamide copolymers of the
SEPIGEL.RTM. or SIMULGEL.RTM. type marketed by the company SEPPIC,
and the AMPS/polyoxyethylenated alkyl methacrylate (cross-linked or
not), [0195] cellulose polymers such as hydroxyethylcellulose,
hydroxypropylcellulose, methylcellulose,
ethylhydroxyethylcellulose, carboxymethylcellulose, and quaternized
cellulose derivatives; [0196] vinyl polymers, such as
polyvinylpyrrolidones, methylvinyl ether and malic anhydride, vinyl
acetate and crotonic acid copolymer, vinylpyrrolidone and vinyl
acetate copolymers; vinylpyrrolidone and caprolactam copolymers;
polyvinyl alcohol; [0197] polymers of natural origin, possibly
modified, such as guar gum, xanthan derivatives and carrageenans;
[0198] and mixtures thereof.
[0199] The gelling agent of the aqueous phase may be present in the
base composition according to the invention and/or the coating
composition according to the invention in a dry matter content
ranging from 0.4 to 10% by weight with respect to the total weight
of the composition, preferably from 0.5% to 8% by weight, and
better from 0.5% to 5% by weight with respect to the total weight
of the composition.
Surfactants
[0200] The base composition according to the invention and/or the
coating composition according to the invention can comprise at
least one surfactant.
[0201] This surfactant can be present in particular in a proportion
ranging from 2% to 20%, and better from 3% to 15% by weight with
respect to the total weight of the composition.
[0202] According to the invention, an emulsifier suitable chosen
for obtaining a wax-in-water emulsion is generally used. In
particular, an emulsifier can be used that has at 25.degree. C. an
HLB balance (hydrophilic-lipophilic balance) in terms of GRIFFIN,
preferably greater than or equal to 8.
[0203] The HLB value as per GRIFFIN is defined in J. Soc. Cosm.
Chem. 1954 (volume 5), pages 249-256.
[0204] These surfactants may be chosen from among anionic,
cationic, amphoteric and non-ionic surfactants. Reference may be
made to the document "Encyclopedia of Chemical Technology,
KIRK-OTHMER", volume 22, p. 333-432, 3rd edition, 1979, WILEY, for
the definition of the properties and (emulsifying) functions of
surfactant agents, in particular p. 347-377 of this reference, for
anionic, amphoteric and non-ionic surfactants.
[0205] Preferably, the surfactant is chosen from: [0206] a) anionic
surfactants such as: [0207] polyoxyethylenated fatty acid salts and
particularly those derived from alkaline salts, and mixtures
thereof; [0208] phosphoric esters and their salts such as "DEA
oleth-10 phosphate" (Crodafos N 10N from CRODA) or monopotassium
monocetyl phosphate (Amphisol K from Givaudan); [0209]
sulfosuccinates such as "Disodium PEG-5 citrate lauryl
sulfosuccinate" and "Disodium ricinoleamido MEA sulfosuccinate";
[0210] alkylethersulfates such as sodium lauryl ether sulfate;
[0211] isethionates; [0212] acylglutamates such as "Disodium
hydrogenated tallow glutamate" (AMISOFT HS-21 R.RTM. marketed by
AJINOMOTO) and sodium stearoyl glutamate (AMISOFT HS-11 PF.RTM.
marketed by AJINOMOTO) and mixtures thereof; [0213] derivatives of
soybeans such as potassium soyate; [0214] citrates, such as
Glyceryl stearate citrate (Axol C 62 Pellets from Degussa); [0215]
derivatives of proline, such as Sodium palmitoyl proline (Sepicalm
VG from Seppic), or the Mixture of Sodium palmitoyl sarcosinate,
Magnesium palmitoyl glutamate, palmitic acid and Palmitoyl proline
(Sepifeel One from Seppic); [0216] lactylates, such as Sodium
stearoyl lactylate (Akoline SL from Karlshamns AB); [0217]
sarcosinates, such as sodium palmitoyl sarcosinate (Nikkol
sarcosinate PN) or the mixture of Stearoyl sarcosine and Myristoyl
sarcosine 75/25 (Crodasin SM from Croda); [0218] sulfonates, such
as Sodium C14-17 alkyl sec sulfonate (Hostapur SAS 60 from
Clariant); [0219] glycinates, such as sodium cocoyl glycinate
(Amilite GCS-12 from Ajinomoto). [0220] C16-C30 fatty acid salts in
particular those derived from amines, such as triethanolamine
stearate and/or amino-2-methyl-2-propane di-01-1,3 stearate; [0221]
b) non-ionic surfactants with a HLB greater than or equal to 8 at
25.degree. C., such as: [0222] esters and ethers of oses such as
the mixture of cetylstearyl glucoside and cetyl and stearyl
alcohols such as Montanov 68 from Seppic; [0223] oxyethylene and/or
oxypropylene ethers (that may comprise from 10 to 150 oxyethylene
and/or oxypropylene groups) of glycerol; [0224] oxyethylene and/or
oxypropylene ethers (that may comprise from 10 to 150 oxyethylene
and/or oxypropylene groups) of fatty alcohols (particularly C8-C24
and preferably C12-C18 alcohols) such as oxyethylene ether of
cetearylic alcohol with 30 oxyethylene groups (CTFA name
"Ceteareth-30"), oxyethylene ether of stearylic alcohol with 20
oxyethylene groups (CTFA name "Steareth-20"), [0225] fatty acid
esters (in particular C8-C24 acid, and preferably C16-C22) and
polyethylene glycol (able to comprise from 10 to 150 ethyleneglycol
patterns) such as PEG-50 stearate and PEG-40 monostearate sold
under the trade name MYRJ 52P.RTM. by ICI UNIQUEMA, [0226] fatty
acid esters (particularly C8-C24 acid, and preferably C16-C22 acid)
and oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylated glycerol ethers (that may
include 10 to 150 oxyethylanated and/or oxypropylenated groups),
such as PEG-200 glyceryl monostearate sold particularly under the
name Simulsol 220 TM.RTM. by SEPPIC; polyethoxylated glyceryl
stearate with 30 ethylene oxide groups such as the TAGAT S.RTM.
product sold by GOLDSCHMIDT, polyethoxylated glyceryl oleate with
30 ethylene oxide groups like the TAGAT O.RTM. product sold by
GOLDSCHMIDT, polyethoxylated glyceryl cocoate with 30 ethylene
oxide groups like the VARIONIC LI 13.RTM. product sold by SHEREX,
polyethoxylated glyceryl isostearate with 30 ethylene oxide groups
such as the TAGAT L.RTM. product sold by GOLDSCHMIDT and
polyethoxylated glyceryl laurate with 30 groups of ethylene oxide
like the TAGAT I.RTM. product from GOLDSCHMIDT, [0227] fatty acid
esters (particularly C8-C24 acid and preferably C16-C22 acid) and
oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylenated sorbitol ethers (possibly
containing 10 to 150 oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylenated groups),
such as polysorbate 20 sold under the name Tween 20.RTM. by CRODA,
polysorbate 60 sold under the name Tween 60.RTM. by CRODA, [0228]
copolymers of propylene oxide and of ethylene oxide (also called
EO/PO polycondensates), and more particularly copolymers consisting
of polyethylene glycol/polypropylene glycol blocks, such as for
example polyethylene glycol/polypropylene glycol/polyethylene
glycol triblock polycondensates, for example those having the
following chemical structure:
[0228] H--(O--CH2-CH2)a-(O--CH(CH3)-CH2)b-(O--CH2-CH2)a-OH, [0229]
in which formula a ranges from 2 to 120, and b ranges from 1 to
100.
[0230] As a EO/PO polycondensate that can be used, mention can be
made of polyethylene glycol/polypropylene glycol/polyethylene
glycol triblock polycondensates sold under the trade names
SYNPERONIC.RTM. such as SYNPERONIC PE/L44.RTM. and SYNPERONIC
PE/F127.RTM. by ICI; [0231] c) non-ionic surfactants having an HLB
less than 8 at 25.degree. C., possibly combined with one or several
non-ionic surfactants having an HLB greater than 8 at 25.degree.
C., such as mentioned hereinabove such as: [0232] esters and ethers
of oses such as sucrose stearate, sucrose cocoate, sorbitan
stearate and mixtures thereof such as example Arlatone 2121.RTM.
marketed by the company ICI; [0233] oxyethylene and/or oxypropylene
ethers (that may comprise from 1 to 10 oxyethylene and/or
oxypropylene groups) of fatty alcohols (particularly C8-C24 and
preferably C12-C18 alcohols) such as oxyethylene ether of stearylic
alcohol with 2 oxyethylene groups (CTFA name "Steareth-2"), [0234]
esters of fatty acids (particularly C8-C24 acid and preferably
C16-C22 acid) and of polyol, in particular of glycerol or of
sorbitol, such as glyceryl stearate, glyceryl stearate such as the
product sold under the name TEGIN M.RTM. by the company
GOLDSCHMIDT, glyceryl laurate such as the product sold under the
name IMWITOR 312.RTM. by the company HULS, polyglyceryl-2 stearate,
sorbitan tristearate, glyceryl ricinoleate; and [0235] d) mixtures
thereof.
[0236] Preferably, the base composition according to the invention
and the coating composition according to the invention each
comprise the following surfactants mixture: [0237] at least one
oxyethylene and/or oxypropylene ether, that can comprise from 10 to
150 oxyethylene and/or oxypropylene groups, C12-C18 fatty alcohols,
with an HLB greater than 8 at 25.degree. C.; and [0238] at least
one oxyethylene and/or oxypropylene ether, that can comprise from 1
to 10 oxyethylene and/or oxypropylene groups, C12-C18 fatty
alcohols, with an HLB less than 8 at 25.degree. C.
Oily Phase
[0239] The base composition according to the invention and/or the
coating composition according to the invention can comprise a fatty
phase, which can be dispersed.
[0240] The base composition according to the invention and the
coating composition according to the invention each preferably
comprise a fatty phase, which is preferably a dispersed fatty
phase.
[0241] The fatty phase can be present in each composition in a
content between 5% and 50% by weight, preferably between 10% and
40% by weight with respect to the total weight of the
composition.
[0242] The fatty phase can comprise at least one wax, at least one
oil and/or at least one pasty fatty substance.
[0243] Preferably, the base composition according to the invention
and the coating composition according to the invention each
comprise at least one wax. This wax is indispensable for obtaining
thick and loading textures.
[0244] The term "wax" refers to a lipophilic compound, which is
solid at ambient temperature (25.degree. C.), deformable or not,
having a reversible solid/liquid change of state and a melting
point greater than or equal to 40.degree. C. that can range up to
120.degree. C. In particular, the waxes suitable for the invention
may have a melting point greater than or equal to 45.degree. C.,
and particularly greater than or equal to 55.degree. C.
[0245] The term "lipophilic compound" compound means a compound
that has an acid index and a hydroxyl index less than 150 mg
KOH/g.
[0246] According to the invention, the melting point is equivalent
to the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed in thermal
analysis (DSC) as described in the standard ISO 11357-3; 1999. The
melting point of the wax may be measured using a differential
scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under
the name "MDSC 2920" by TA Instruments.
[0247] The measurement protocol is as follows:
[0248] A 5 mg sample of wax placed in a crucible is subjected to a
first temperature rise from -20.degree. C. to 100.degree. C., at a
heating rate of 10.degree. C./minute, and is then cooled from
100.degree. C. to -20.degree. C. at a cooling rate of 10.degree.
C./minute and finally subjected to a second temperature rise from
-20.degree. C. to 100.degree. C. at a heating rate of 5.degree.
C./minute. During the second temperature rise, the variation in the
difference in power absorbed by the empty crucible and by the
crucible containing the wax sample as a function of temperature is
measured. The melting point of the compound is the value of the
temperature equivalent to the top point of the peak of the curve
representing the variation in the difference in power absorbed as a
function of temperature.
[0249] The waxes may be hydrocarbon, silicone and/or fluorinated
and be of plant, mineral and/or synthetic origin.
[0250] The wax may be present in each composition in a content
ranging from 1% to 30% by weight with respect to the total weight
of the composition, better from 2% to 20%, and even better from 5%
to 17% by weight.
[0251] Hydrocarbon waxes such as beeswax, lanolin wax; rice wax,
Carnauba wax, Candellila wax, Ouricury wax, Japan wax, Berry wax,
shellac wax and sumac wax; montan wax can be in particular used as
wax.
[0252] According to an embodiment, a hydrocarbon wax will be used
chosen from beeswax, rice bran wax, Carnauba wax, and mixtures
thereof.
[0253] Mention may also be made of waxes obtained by means of the
catalytic hydrogenation of animal or plant oils having C8-C32
linear or branched fat chains.
[0254] Of these, particular mention may be made of hydrogenated
jojoba oil, hydrogenated palm oil, hydrogenated sunflower oil,
hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated coconut oil, hydrogenated
lanolin oil, di-(trimethylol-1,1,1 propane) tetrastearate sold
under the name "HEST 2T-4S" by HETERENE, di-(trimethylol-1,1,1
propane) tetrabehenate sold under the name HEST 2T-4B by
HETERENE.
[0255] The wax used can also be obtained by hydrogenating
esterified olive oil with stearyl alcohol sold under the name
"PHYTOWAX Olive 18 L 57" or waxes obtained by hydrogenating
esterified castor oil with cetyl alcohol sold under the name
"PHYTOWAX ricin 16L64 and 22L73", by SOPHIM. Such waxes are
described in the application FR-A-2792190.
[0256] A silicone wax, in particular sticky, such as a C20-C40
alkyl (hydroxystearyloxy)stearate (the alkyl group comprising 20 to
40 carbon atoms), alone or in a mixture, may be used, in particular
a C20-C40 12-alkyl-(12'-hydroxystearyloxy)stearate having the
formula (I):
##STR00001##
wherein n is an integer ranging from 18 to 38, or a mixture of
compounds having the formula (I). Such a sticky wax is particularly
sold under the names "KESTER WAX K 82 P" and "KESTER WAX K 80 P" by
KOSTER KEUNEN.
[0257] Mention can finally be made of microcrystalline waxes,
paraffins and ozokerite; polyethylene waxes, waxes obtained by
means of Fisher-Tropsch synthesis and waxy copolymers and the
esters thereof; silicone waxes and fluorinated waxes.
[0258] The base composition according to the invention and the
coating composition according to the invention can furthermore each
comprise one or several liquid non-fatty oil or fatty body at
ambient temperature (25.degree. C.) and atmospheric pressure (760
mm of Hg). The oil can be chosen from volatile oils and/or
non-volatile oils, and mixtures thereof. The oil or oils may be
present in each composition in a content ranging from 0.1% to 10%
by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 5% by weight relative to the
total weight of the composition.
[0259] The term "volatile oil" is intended to mean any oil capable
of evaporating on contact with keratin fibers, in less than one
hour, at ambient temperature and at atmospheric pressure. The
volatile organic solvent(s) and volatile oils according to the
invention are organic solvents and volatile cosmetic oils, which
are liquid at ambient temperature, having a vapor pressure
different to zero, at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure,
particularly ranging from 0.13 Pa to 40,000 Pa (10.sup.-3 at 300 mm
Hg), particularly ranging from 1.3 Pa to 13,000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mm
Hg), and more specifically ranging from 1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.01 to
10 mm Hg). The term "non-volatile oil" denotes an oil remaining on
the keratin fiber at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure
for at least several hours and particularly having a vapor pressure
less than 10.sup.-3 mm Hg (0.13 Pa).
[0260] These oils may be hydrocarbon oils, silicone oils,
fluorinated oils or mixtures thereof.
[0261] A "hydrocarbon oil" is an oil containing principally
hydrogen and carbon atoms and possible oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and
phosphorus atoms. The volatile hydrocarbon oils can be chosen from
hydrocarbon oils having 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and particularly
branched C8-C16 alkanes such as petroleum-based C8-C16 isoalkanes
(also referred to as isoparaffins) such as isododecane (also
referred to as 2,2,4,4,6-pentamethylheptane), isodecane,
isohexadecane, and for example oils sold under the trade names
Isopars or Permetyls, branched C8-C16 esters, isohexyl
neopentanoate, and mixtures thereof. Further volatile hydrocarbon
oils such as petroleum distillates, particularly those sold under
the name Shell Solt by SHELL, may also be used. Preferably, the
volatile solvent is chosen from volatile hydrocarbon oils having 8
to 16 carbon atoms and mixtures thereof. Other volatile oils that
can be used are volatile silicones, such as for example volatile
linear or cyclic silicone oils, particularly those having a
viscosity .ltoreq.8 centistokes (8 10-6 m2/s), and in particular
having 2 to 7 silicon atoms, these silicones optionally comprising
alkyl or alkoxy groups having 1 to 10 carbon atoms. Mention may be
made, as a volatile silicone oil suitable for use in the invention,
in particular, of octamethyl cyclotetrasiloxane, decamethyl
cyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethyl cyclohexasiloxane, heptamethyl
hexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyl trisiloxane, hexamethyl
disiloxane, octamethyl trisiloxane, decamethyl tetrasiloxane,
dodecamethyl pentasiloxane, and mixtures thereof. Mention may also
be made of volatile alkyl trisiloxanes oils with general formula
(I):
##STR00002##
[0262] In which R represents an alkyl group comprising 2 to 4
carbon atoms and in which one or several hydrogen atoms can be
substituted by a fluorine or chlorine atom. Among oils with general
formula (I), mention may be made of: [0263] 3-butyl
1,1,1,3,5,5,5-heptamethyl trisiloxane, [0264] 3-propyl
1,1,1,3,5,5,5-heptamethyl trisiloxane, and [0265] 3-ethyl
1,1,1,3,5,5,5-heptamethyl trisiloxane, corresponding to the oils
having formula (I) for which R is respectively a butyl group, a
propyl group or an ethyl group.
[0266] The base composition according to the invention and the
coating composition according to the invention can also each
comprise at least one non-volatile oil, and in particular chosen
from non-volatile hydrocarbon and/or silicone and/or fluorinated
oils.
[0267] As a non-volatile hydrocarbon oil, mention may be made of:
[0268] hydrocarbon oils of plant origin such as triesters of fatty
acids and glycerol for which the fatty acids can have chain lengths
ranging from C4 to C24, with the latter able to be linear or
branched, saturated or unsaturated; these oils are in particular
wheat germ, sunflower, grape seed, sesame, corn, apricot, castor,
shea, avocado, olive, soybean oils, sweet almond, palm, rapeseed,
cotton, hazelnut, macadamia, jojoba, alfalfa, poppy seed, pumpkin,
sesame, squash, rapeseed, blackcurrant, evening primrose, millet,
barley, quinoa, rye, safflower, candlenut, passiflora, musk rose
oil; or caprylic/capric acid triglycerides such as those sold by
Stearineries Dubois or those sold under the trade names Miglyol
810, 812 and 818 by Dynamit Nobel; [0269] linear or branched
hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, such as liquid
paraffins and derivatives thereof, polydecenes, polybutenes,
hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam, squalane; [0270]
synthetic ethers having from 10 to 40 carbon atoms; [0271]
synthetic esters such as the oils having the formula R1COOR2
wherein R1 represents the residue of a linear or branched fatty
acid comprising 1 to 40 carbon atoms and R2 represents a
hydrocarbon chain, particularly branched containing 1 to 40 carbon
atoms where R1+R2.gtoreq.10, such as for example Purcellin oil
(cetostearyl octanoate), isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate,
C12 to C15 alcohol benzoate, hexyl laurate, diisopropyl adipate,
isononyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isostearate of
isostearate, alcohol or polyalcohol octanoates, decanoates or
ricinoleates such as propylene glycol dioctanoate; hydroxylated
esters, such as isostearyl lactate, diisostearyl malate; and
pentaerythritol esters; [0272] fatty alcohols that are liquid at
ambient temperature, with a branched and/or unsaturated carbon
chain having 12 to 26 carbon atoms, such as octyldodecanol,
isostearyl alcohol, oleic alcohol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-butyloctanol,
2-undecylpentadecanol; [0273] and mixtures thereof.
[0274] The non-volatile silicone oils that can be used in the
composition in accordance with the invention can be non-volatile
polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS), polydimethylsiloxanes comprising
alkyl or alkoxy groups which are pendant or at the end of the
silicone chain, groups each having 2 to 24 carbon atoms; phenylated
silicones, such as phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones,
phenyltrimethylsiloxydiphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones,
diphenylmethyldiphenyl-trisiloxanes or
(2-phenylethyl)trimethylsiloxysilicates.
[0275] The fluorinated oils that can be used in the invention are
in particular fluorosilicone oils, fluorinated polyethers,
fluorinated silicones, as described in document EP-A-847752.
[0276] The base composition according to the invention and/or the
coating composition according to the invention can also comprise at
least one pasty compound at 23.degree. C., hydrocarbon or silicon.
The pasty fatty substance or substances may be present in the
composition in a content ranging from 0.1% to 10% by weight,
preferably from 0.5% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight
of the composition.
[0277] For the purposes of the invention, the term "pasty fatty
substance" refers to a lipophilic fatty compound having a
reversible solid/liquid change of state, having an anisotropic
crystalline organization in the solid state, and comprising a
liquid fraction and a solid fraction at a temperature of 23.degree.
C.
[0278] In other words, the initial melting point of the pasty
compound may be less than 23.degree. C. The liquid fraction of the
pasty compound measured at 23.degree. C. may represent 9 to 97% by
weight of the compound. This liquid fraction at 23.degree. C.
preferably represents between 15 and 85%, more preferably between
40 and 85% by weight.
[0279] The melting point of a solid fatty substance can be measured
using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the
calorimeter sold under the trade name "DSC Q100" by TA Instruments
with the "TA Universal Analysis" software, according to the
protocol defined hereinabove.
[0280] The liquid fraction by weight of the pasty compound at
23.degree. C. is more particularly equal to the ratio of the
enthalpy of fusion consumed at 23.degree. C. to the enthalpy of
fusion of the pasty compound.
[0281] The enthalpy of fusion of the pasty compound is the enthalpy
consumed by the compound to change from the solid state to the
liquid state. The pasty compound is said to be in the solid state
when the entire mass thereof is in solid crystalline form. The
pasty compound is said to be in the liquid state when the entire
mass thereof is in liquid form.
[0282] The enthalpy of fusion of the pasty compound is in
particular equal to the area under the curve of the thermogram
obtained using a differential scanning calorimeter. The enthalpy of
fusion of the pasty compound is the quantity of energy required to
change the compound from the solid state to the liquid state. It is
expressed in J/g.
[0283] The enthalpy of fusion consumed at 23.degree. C. is the
quantity of energy required by the sample to change from the solid
state to the state presented at 23.degree. C. consisting of a
liquid fraction and a solid fraction.
[0284] The pasty compound(s) can be in particular chosen from
synthetic pasty compounds and fatty substances of plant origin. The
pasty compound(s) can be hydrocarbon or silicone.
[0285] The pasty compound(s) can be in particular chosen from:
[0286] lanolin and its derivatives, such as lanolin alcohol,
oxyethylenated lanolins, acetylated lanolin, lanolin esters such as
isopropyl lanolate, oxypropylenated lanolins; [0287] vaseline (also
called petrolatum), [0288] polyol ethers chosen from C2-C4
pentaerythritol and polyalkylene glycol ethers, fatty alcohol and
sugar ethers, and mixtures thereof. For example, mention can be
made of pentaerythritol and polyethylene glycol ether comprising 5
oxyethylene patterns (5 OE) (CTFA name: PEG-5 Pentaerythrityl
Ether), pentaerythritol and polypropylene glycol ether comprising 5
oxypropylene units (5 OP) (CTFA name: PPG-5 Pentaerythrityl Ether),
and the mixtures thereof and more specifically the mixture of PEG-5
Pentaerythrityl Ether, PPG-5 Pentaerythrityl Ether and soybean oil,
sold under the name "Lanolide" by VEVY, wherein the ratio of the
constituents by weight is 46:46:8: 46% PEG-5 Pentaerythrityl Ether,
46% PPG-5 Pentaerythrityl Ether and 8% soybean oil, [0289]
polyethers derived from polyetherification between one or a
plurality of C2-C100, preferably C2-050, diols. Of the liposoluble
polyethers, ethylene-oxide and/or propylene-oxide copolymers with
C6-C30 long-chain alkylene-oxides are particularly considered, more
preferably such that the weight ratio of ethylene-oxide and/or
propylene-oxide with alkylene-oxides in the copolymer is 5:95 to
70:30. In this family, particular mention may be made of copolymers
such as long-chain alkylene-oxides arranged in blocks having a mean
molecular weight of 1000 to 10000, for example a
polyoxyethylene/polydodecyl glycol block copolymer such as the
dodecanediol (22 mol) and polyethylene glycol (45 EO) ethers
marketed under the brand ELFACOS ST9 by AKZO NOBEL. [0290] oligomer
glycerol esters, especially the esters of diglycerol, with
monocarboxylic acids, possibly hydroxylated, linear or branched,
saturated or not, preferably saturated, C6-C20, and/or dicarboxylic
acids, linear or branched, saturated or not, preferably saturated,
C6-C10, in particular condensates of adipic acid and diglycerol,
for which a portion of the hydroxyl groups of the glycerols have
reacted with a mixture of fatty acids, such as stearic acid, capric
acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid and 12-hydroxystearic acid,
such as for example bis-diglyceryl polyacyladipate-2 sold under the
reference SOFTISAN.RTM. 649 by Sasol, [0291] butters of plant
origin, such as mango butter, such as the one sold under the
reference Lipex 203 by AARHUSKARLSHAMN, shea butter, in particular
the one of which the INCI name is Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, such
as the one sold under the reference Sheasoft.RTM. by
AARHUSKARLSHAMN, cupuacu butter (Rain Forest RF3410 from Beraca
Sabara), murumuru butter (RAIN FOREST RF3710 from Beraca Sabara),
cocoa butter, babassu butter such as the one sold under the name
Cropure Babassu SS-(LK) by Croda, as well as orange wax such as,
for example, the one sold under the reference Orange Peel Wax by
Koster Keunen, [0292] totally or partially hydrogenated plant oils,
such as for example hydrogenated soybean oil, hydrogenated coconut
oil, hydrogenated rapeseed oil, mixtures of hydrogenated plant oils
such as the mixture of hydrogenated plant oils of soybean, coconut,
palm and rapeseed, for example the mixture sold under the reference
Akogel.RTM. by AARHUSKARLSHAMN (INCI name Hydrogenated Vegetable
Oil), trans isomerized partially hydrogenated jojoba oil
manufactured or sold by Desert Whale under the commercial reference
Iso-Jojoba-50.RTM., partially hydrogenated olive oil such as, for
example, the compound sold under the reference Beurrolive by
Soliance, [0293] hydrogenated castor oil esters, such as dimer
dilinoleate hydrogenated castor oil for example RISOCAST-DA-L sold
by KOKYU ALCOHOL KOGYO, hydrogenated castor oil isostearate for
example SALACOS HCIS (V-L) sold by NISSHIN OIL, [0294] and mixtures
thereof.
Film-Forming Polymers
[0295] The base composition according to the invention and/or the
coating composition according to the invention can comprise at
least one film-forming polymer.
[0296] The film-forming polymer may be present in a dry matter (or
active matter) content ranging from 0.1 to 40% by weight with
respect to the total weight of the composition, preferably from
0.5% to 20% by weight, and better from 1% to 15% by weight.
[0297] The film-forming polymer may also be present at a dry matter
(or active matter) content ranging from 10% to 40% by weight in
relation to the total weight of the composition, preferably 15% to
30% by weight.
[0298] In this invention, the term "film-forming polymer" means a
polymer that can form by itself or in the presence of an auxiliary
film-forming agent, a macroscopically continuous film that adheres
to the keratin fibers.
[0299] The hydrophilic film-forming polymer can be a polymer in
dispersion in an aqueous medium.
[0300] Among the film-forming polymers that can be used in the base
composition according to the invention and/or the coating
composition according to the invention, mention may be made of
radical or polycondensate type synthetic polymers, polymers of
natural origin, and mixtures thereof.
[0301] The term "radical film-forming polymer" refers to a polymer
obtained by polymerization of unsaturated monomers in particular
ethylenic, with each monomer able to be homopolymerized (unlike
polycondensates).
[0302] The film-forming polymer can present in the base composition
according to the invention and/or the coating composition according
to the invention in the form of particles in dispersion in a
aqueous phase, generally known under the name of pseudolatex. The
techniques for preparing these dispersions are well known to those
skilled in the art.
[0303] By way of aqueous film-forming polymer dispersion, use may
be made of acrylic dispersions sold under the names Neocryl
XK-90.RTM., Neocryl A-1070.RTM., Neocryl A-1090.RTM., Neocryl
BT-62.RTM., Neocryl A-1079.RTM. and Neocryl A-523.RTM. by
AVECIA-NEORESINS, Dow Latex 432.RTM. by DOW CHEMICAL, Daitosol 5000
AD.RTM. or Daitosol 5000 SJ.RTM. by DAITO KASEY KOGYO; Syntran
5760.RTM. or Syntran 5760 CG.RTM. by Interpolymer; Allianz Opt.RTM.
by Rohm and Haas or the aqueous polyurethane dispersions sold under
the names Neorez R-981.RTM. and Neorez R-974.RTM. by
AVECIA-NEORESINS, Avalure UR-405.RTM., Avalure UR-410.RTM., Avalure
UR-425.RTM., Avalure UR-450.RTM., Sancure 875.RTM., Avalure
UR-445.RTM. and Sancure 2060.RTM. by NOVEON, Impranil 85.RTM. by
BAYER, Aquamere H-1511.RTM. by HYDROMER; sulfopolyesters sold under
the brand name Eastman AQ.RTM. by Eastman Chemical Products,
aqueous polyvinyl acetate dispersions such as "Vinybran.RTM." from
Nisshin Chemical or those sold by UNION CARBIDE, aqueous vinyl
pyrrolidoneterpolymer dispersions, dimethylaminopropyl
methacrylamide and lauryldimethylpropylmethacrylamidoammonium
chloride such as Styleze W- from ISP, aqueous hybrid
polyurethane/polyacrylic polymer dispersions such as those sold
under the references "Hybridu.RTM.r" by AIR PRODUCTS or
"Duromer.RTM." by NATIONAL STARCH, core/shell type dispersions: for
example those sold by ATOFINA under the reference Kynar (core:
fluorinated-shell: acrylic) or those described in the document U.S.
Pat. No. 5,188,899 (core; silica-shell:silicone) and mixtures
thereof.
[0304] Preferably, according to an embodiment, the base composition
according to the invention comprises a continuous aqueous phase, a
dispersed fatty phase and a dispersion of film-forming polymer
particles in an aqueous phase, in particular as mentioned
hereinabove. Preferably in this case, the film-forming polymer is
present at a dry matter (or active matter) content ranging from 10%
to 40% by weight in relation to the total weight of the
composition, preferably 15% to 30% by weight.
[0305] Furthermore, the base composition according to the invention
and/or the coating composition according to the invention can, each
one, also comprise ingredients commonly used in cosmetics such as
dyes, fillers, fibers, cosmetic active agents and mixtures
thereof.
[0306] As cosmetic active agents that can be used in the
compositions according to the invention, mention can be made of
antioxidants, preservatives, perfumes, neutralizers and
vitamins.
[0307] Obviously, those skilled in the art will take care to choose
these optional additional compounds, and/or the quantity thereof,
such that the advantageous properties of the active constituents of
each composition according to the invention are not, or are
substantially not, altered by the envisaged addition.
Dye
[0308] The base composition according to the invention and/or the
coating composition according to the invention can comprise at
least one dye such as powder materials, liposoluble dyes and
water-soluble dyes.
[0309] Preferably, at least the coating composition according to
the invention comprises at least one dye. Indeed, such a coating
composition can as such provide interesting color and/or aesthetic
effects.
[0310] The powder dyes can be chosen from pigments and nacres.
[0311] The pigments may be white or colored, inorganic and/or
organic, coated or uncoated. Of the inorganic pigments, mention may
be made of titanium dioxide, optionally surface-treated, zirconium,
zinc or cerium oxides, along with iron or chromium oxides,
manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate and iron blue.
Of the organic pigments, mention may be made of carbon black, D
& C type pigments, and lacquers based on cochineal carmine,
barium, strontium, calcium, aluminum.
[0312] The nacres may be chosen from white pearlescent pigments
such as mica coated with titanium, or bismuth oxychloride, colored
pearlescent pigments such as titanium mica with iron oxides,
titanium mica with iron blue and chromium oxide in particular,
titanium mica with an organic pigments of the aforementioned type
and pearlescent pigments based on bismuth oxychloride.
[0313] The liposoluble colorants are for example Sudan Red, D&C
Red 17, D&C Green 6, .beta.-carotene, Sudan Brown, D&C
Yellow 11, D&C Violet 2, D&C orange 5, Quinoline Yellow,
rocou.
[0314] These dyes may be present in each composition at a content
ranging from 0.01% to 30% by weight, with respect to the total
weight of the composition.
Fibers
[0315] The base composition according to the invention and/or the
coating composition according to the invention can also comprise at
least one fiber that allows for an improvement in the lengthening
effect.
[0316] The term "fiber", means an object with a length L and
diameter D such that L is much greater than D, D being the diameter
of the circle in which the section of the fiber is inscribed.
[0317] In particular, the ratio L/D (or form factor) is chosen from
the range of 3.5 to 2,500, in particular from 5 to 500, and more
particularly from 5 to 150.
[0318] The fibers that can be used in the base composition
according to the invention and/or the coating composition according
to the invention can be fibers of natural or synthetic, mineral or
organic origin. They can be short or long, single units or
organized for example in braids, hollow or solid. They may be of
any shape and in particular of circular or polygonal section
(square, hexagonal or octagonal) according to the specific
application considered. In particular, their ends are blunt and/or
polished in order to prevent injury.
[0319] In particular, the fibers have a length ranging from 1 .mu.m
to 10 mm, in particular from 0.1 mm to 5 mm and more particularly
from 0.3 mm to 3.5 mm. Their section can be comprised in a circle
with a diameter ranging from 2 nm to 500 .mu.m, in particular
ranging from 100 nm to 100 .mu.m and more particularly from 1 .mu.m
to 50 .mu.m. The weight or content of fibers is often given in
denier or decitex and represents the weight in grams for 9 km of
thread. The fibers according to the invention in particular have a
content chosen in the range from 0.15 to 30 deniers and in
particular from 0.18 to 18 deniers.
[0320] The fibers that can be used in the base composition
according to the invention and/or the coating composition according
to the invention can be chosen from rigid or non-rigid fibers, they
can be of natural or synthetic, mineral or organic origin.
[0321] Moreover, the fibers can be surface-treated or not, coated
or uncoated, dyed or not dyed. In terms of fibers that can be used,
mention can be made of non-rigid fibers such as polyamide fibers
(Nylon.RTM.), cellulose fibers or "Rayonne" (RAYON FLOCK RCISE
N0003 M04.RTM. marketed by the company CLAREMONT FLOCK CORPORATION)
or rigid fibers such as the polyimide-amide fibers such as those
sold under the names KERMEL.RTM., KERMEL TECH.RTM. by the company
RHODIA or poly-(p-phenylene-terephtalamide) (or aramide) in
particular sold under the name Kevlar.RTM. by the company DUPONT DE
NEMOURS.
[0322] The fibers can be present in the base composition according
to the invention and/or the coating composition according to the
invention in a content ranging from 0.1% to 10% by weight, with
respect to the total weight of the composition, in particular from
0.1% to 5% by weight.
[0323] The base composition according to the invention and the
coating composition according to the invention can each have a
semi-liquid or liquid form.
[0324] The base composition according to the invention and the
coating composition according to the invention can in particular
have the form of a wax-in-water emulsion, the form of a cream,
paste, in particular a flexible paste. Each composition is
preferably an non-rinsed composition.
Method of Application
[0325] A process for applying compositions on keratin fibers of a
user, according to the invention, using the requisite for
application comprising the device 10 shall now be described.
[0326] Initially, the system for applying able to apply a base
composition and the base composition are provided. Furthermore, a
device 10 is provided with the applicator 14 in idle position,
mounted and immobilized on the receptacle 12, the receptacle 12
containing the coating composition of the base composition.
[0327] The base composition is first of all applied onto the
keratin fibers, in particular by the system for applying; this is
the step a).
[0328] Then the step b) is carried out; the first application
member 22A is impregnated with the coating composition.
[0329] In order to release the applicator 14 from the receptacle
12, the user blocks the rod carrier 18 in rotation with respect to
the gripping member 16 by passing the blocking system 24 from its
inactive configuration to its active configuration.
[0330] For this, the user exerts a radial pressure towards the axis
A on each flexible tab 114. Each locking cog 118 is as such
inserted into a spline 112, blocking in rotation about the axis A
the rod carrier 18 with respect to the gripping member 16.
[0331] Simultaneously, the user releases the head for mounting 84
from the neck 30 here by unscrewing the unit formed by the gripping
member 16 and the rod carrier 18, and by maintaining the blocking
system 24 active. Then, the user extracts the rod carrier 18 and
the first application member 22A outside of the receptacle 12
through the opening 28. The squeezing device 32 removes from the
first application member 22A, the excess product that accompanies
the exit thereof from the receptacle 12.
[0332] The user brings the first application member 22A of the
coating composition in contact with the keratin fibers on which the
base composition has already been applied.
[0333] The user displaces the first application member 22A on the
keratin fibers. During this displacement, the mechanical stress of
the keratin fibers on the first application member 22A drives in
rotation the first application member 22A, the rod 20, and the rod
carrier 18 with respect to the gripping member 16.
[0334] The displacement is accompanied by the depositing of the
coating composition on the keratin fibers. The very low contact
between the rod carrier 18 and the application member 16 on the
regions 86, 90, decreases the friction between the rod carrier 18
and the gripping member 16.
[0335] The friction with the keratin fibers, which are applied on
the first application member 22A during the application of the
coating composition, very easily cause the rod 20 to rotate with
respect to the gripping member 16.
[0336] As such the first application member 22A, instead of rubbing
against the keratin fibers and removing a portion of the base
composition that has already been deposited, rolls on the keratin
fibers and does not remove any of the already deposited base
composition. The force exerted by the user to roll the first
application member 22A on the keratin fibers is minimized thanks to
the pivot connection with reduced statically indeterminate created
by the linear contact regions 86, 90.
[0337] Through the weakness of the shearing forces generated during
the application of the coating composition on the base composition
by the applicator 14, the base composition and the coating
composition are superimposed without mixing together.
[0338] Furthermore, the step of displacing the first application
member 22A on the keratin fibers does not require waiting for the
drying of the base composition already applied on the keratin
fibers.
[0339] As an alternative of the first application member 22A of the
device 10, a second application member 22B is shown in FIG. 10.
[0340] This second application member 22B differs from the first
application member 22A in that the pins of the second row 128 are
not arranged staggered with the adjacent pins of the first row 126
and the adjacent pins of the third row 130.
[0341] Each row of pins has at least one pin 122 axially
positioned, along the longitudinal axis A, at the same position as
a pin 122 of each one of the other rows of pins.
[0342] In the example of FIG. 10, each pin 122 of the second row
128 is axially positioned, along the longitudinal axis A, at the
same position as a pin of the first row 126 and of the third row
130. More generally, each pin 122 of at least one row of pins is
axially positioned, along the longitudinal axis A, at the same
position as a pin of each one of the other rows of pins.
[0343] Each pin 122 of a row that has one pin less that its
adjacent rows, is axially positioned, along the longitudinal axis
A, at the same position as a pin of each one of its adjacent
rows.
[0344] Alternatively, the user can selectively block the rotation
of the rod carrier 18 with respect to the gripping member 16 at any
time, in particular during the application of the product.
[0345] Alternatively, the blocking device 19 is configured to
authorize a relative translation travel along the axis A of the rod
carrier 18 with respect to the gripping member 16, for example a
travel less than 10 mm, in particular between 4 mm and 6 mm.
[0346] A damping elastic element (not shown) is for example
arranged between the rod carrier 18 and the gripping member 16.
This elastic element is arranged in such a way that the relative
translation along the axis A is carried out, at least in one
direction of translation of the rod carrier 18 with respect to the
gripping member 16, against an elastic force exerted by the elastic
element.
[0347] Alternatively, and according to an advantageous arrangement,
the blocking system 24 comprises a deformable seal added in the cut
around each flexible tab 114, in order to seal the cut at the
periphery of each flexible tag 114. Such a seal makes it possible
to prevent the insertion of dust into the internal volume 46 of the
cover 34.
[0348] Alternatively, and according to an advantageous arrangement,
the applicator 14 is able to be removably mounted onto the
receptacle 12 by means of a snap-fitting or magnetism system, or by
any other system that does not require a relative rotation of the
applicator 14 with respect to the receptacle 12 in order to
separate these two elements.
[0349] During the process of application of the coating
composition, the user releases the applicator 14 from the
receptacle 12, by pulling on the applicator 14 which is separated
from the receptacle 12 via simple translation along the axis A.
[0350] The examples hereinafter are given by way of illustration
and are not intended to limit the invention. Unless mentioned
otherwise, the quantities indicated are expressed as a percentage
by mass.
Example 1: Evaluation of the Makeup Obtained with a Process
According to the Invention Versus a Process Using Only One
Non-Rotary Applicator Member with Respect to a Gripping Member
[0351] The device 10 according to the invention is used, comprising
the second application member 22B, and a conventional applicator
(i.e. of which the member for applying is non-rotary or locked in
rotation with respect to a gripping member, comparative), with two
mascara formulas, one blue and the other pink.
TABLE-US-00001 INCI name Pink mascara Blue mascara CI 77891 (and)
CI 42090 (and) METHICONE -- 3 CI 77007 (and) SILICA -- 12
Preservatives Qs Qs PARAFFIN Wax 5.2 4.5 Carnauba Wax 10.3 9 MICA
(and) CI 77891 (and) CI 45410 (and) TIN OXIDE 10 --
Polyvinylpyrrolidone 1.5 1.5 Water 49.5 48.5 STEARETH-2 5 4.5
STEARETH-20 12.5 10.5
[0352] The second application member 22B and the pins 122 have the
following characteristics:
[0353] The diameter of the support body 120 measures 3.5 mm, the
difference between two adjacent pins 1.2 mm and the length of the
pins in 3 mm. The second application member 22B comprises 12 rows
each comprising 20 pins or 21 pins, and the rows of pins are
arranged axially face-to-face without any axial offset (no
staggering).
[0354] Comparatively, an application member similar to the second
application member 22B described hereinabove is adapted at the end
of the rest of the conventional applicator, with the same
characteristics of the support body, difference between two
adjacent pins, still with 12 rows each comprising 20 pins or 21
pins face-to-face.
[0355] There are as such two applicator systems: [0356] applicator
14 provided with a second application member 22B that is rotary
with respect to the gripping member 16 (invention); et [0357]
applicator provided with an application member similar to the
second application member 22B blocked in rotation with respect to a
gripping member (comparative).
[0358] Test pieces of false eyelashes are provided with makeup with
the base composition, the with the coating composition of the base
composition, with each composition having its applicator system,
according to the following protocol:
[0359] Each test piece is a bar of "experimental eyelashes" from
SPEquation. It is comprised of 60 Caucasian hairs with a height
from 5-6 to 13 mm long, arranged over a length of 2 cm.
[0360] The following is applied for the process of the invention:
[0361] a) the base composition (blue mascara) with an applicator
system of the invention, then immediately afterwards [0362] b) the
coating composition of the base composition (pink mascara) with
another applicator system of the invention, each step a) and b)
being carried out with a procedure from 1 to 5 brush strokes.
[0363] In the same way, the following is applied for the comparison
process: [0364] a) the base composition (blue mascara) with a
comparative applicator system, then immediately afterwards [0365]
b) the coating composition of the base composition (pink mascara)
with another comparative applicator system, each step a) and b)
being carried out with a procedure from 1 to 5 brush strokes.
[0366] The compositions a) and b) are applied successively without
the composition a) having the time to dry. Finally, immediately
after the end of the step b), the visual aspect of the test pieces
of false eyelashes is evaluated. The results are shown in FIGS. 11
and 12.
[0367] In the case of the process according to the invention, of
which the results are shown in FIG. 11, there is success in
superposing points of two colors, and as such obtain a color effect
that is impossible to achieve with the use of a blocked applicator
(comparative).
[0368] Indeed, in the case of the comparative process, of which the
results are shown in FIG. 12, the application of the coating
composition (step b) shears the layer of base composition (applied
in step a) and the colors mix together. A violet deposit is thus
obtained.
* * * * *