U.S. patent application number 16/649201 was filed with the patent office on 2020-09-17 for lyocell filament denim.
The applicant listed for this patent is LENZING AKTIENGESELLSCHAFT. Invention is credited to Mohammad Abu-Rous, Susanne Carls, Dieter Eichinger, Martin Neunteufel, Christoph Schrempf.
Application Number | 20200291551 16/649201 |
Document ID | / |
Family ID | 1000004930100 |
Filed Date | 2020-09-17 |
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United States Patent
Application |
20200291551 |
Kind Code |
A1 |
Carls; Susanne ; et
al. |
September 17, 2020 |
LYOCELL FILAMENT DENIM
Abstract
The invention relates to a denim fabric as it is used for
clothes (1). The fabric is made from weft yarns (4) and warp yarns
(6). At least one of the warp yarns and the weft yarns contains or
consists of lyocell filaments (8). The resulting material combines
high mechanical strength against wear and tear with superior
softness, smoothness and luster. Furthermore, the denim according
to the invention is bleachable. The denim according to the
invention represents a new class of denim alongside existing cotton
denims and denims with a silk component.
Inventors: |
Carls; Susanne; (4860
Lenzing, AT) ; Neunteufel; Martin; (New Territories,
Hong Kong, CN) ; Eichinger; Dieter; (8280
Furstenfeld, AT) ; Schrempf; Christoph; (4701 Bad
Schallerbach, AT) ; Abu-Rous; Mohammad; (1110 Wien,
AT) |
|
Applicant: |
Name |
City |
State |
Country |
Type |
LENZING AKTIENGESELLSCHAFT |
Lenzing |
|
AT |
|
|
Family ID: |
1000004930100 |
Appl. No.: |
16/649201 |
Filed: |
September 20, 2018 |
PCT Filed: |
September 20, 2018 |
PCT NO: |
PCT/EP2018/075492 |
371 Date: |
March 20, 2020 |
Current U.S.
Class: |
1/1 |
Current CPC
Class: |
D06L 4/24 20170101; D03D
15/0027 20130101; D03D 1/00 20130101; D01F 2/00 20130101; D10B
2201/22 20130101 |
International
Class: |
D03D 15/00 20060101
D03D015/00; D06L 4/24 20060101 D06L004/24; D03D 1/00 20060101
D03D001/00; D01F 2/00 20060101 D01F002/00 |
Foreign Application Data
Date |
Code |
Application Number |
Oct 6, 2017 |
EP |
17195295.5 |
Claims
1. A lyocell denim made from weft yarns and warp yarns, wherein at
least one of the weft yarns and the warp yarns contains or consists
of lyocell filaments.
2. The lyocell denim according to claim 1, wherein the denim is
bleached.
3. The lyocell denim according to claim 1, wherein the denim has a
TS7 value of no more than 6 in a TSA test in the fixed state and/or
after garment wash and/or after bleaching.
4. The lyocell denim according to claim 1, wherein the denim has a
TS750 value of no more than 100 in the fixed state and/or after
garment wash and/or after bleaching.
5. The lyocell denim according to claim 1, wherein the yarn
strength of the yarns containing or consisting of lyocell is at
least 25 cN/tex after fixation and/or at least 4.5 cN/tex after
garment wash and/or at least 2 cN/tex after bleaching.
6. The lyocell denim according to claim 1, wherein the denim scores
at least one at least 15,000 cycles to hole formation in a
Martindale abrasion test in the fixed state and 8,000 cycles to
hole formation in a Martindale abrasion test after garment wash
and/or after bleaching.
7. The lyocell denim according to claim 1, wherein the warp face of
the denim has a pilling grade of no worse than 5 in the fixed state
and/or no worse than 5 after garment wash and no worse than 5 after
bleaching in a Martindale pilling test.
8. The lyocell denim according to claim 1, wherein the yarn
elongation of at least one of the warp and weft yarn containing the
lyocell filaments is at least 4% after fixation and/or at least 2%
after garment wash and/or at least 1% after bleaching.
9. The lyocell denim according to claim 1, wherein the of the denim
on the warp face has a hairiness grade no worse than 4 after
garment wash and no worse than 3 after bleaching.
10. The lyocell denim according to claim 1, wherein the fiber
splice of the denim has a grade of no worse than 4 before and/or
after fixation and/or no worse than 4.5 after garment wash and/or
no worse than 4.5 after bleaching.
11. The lyocell denim according to claim 1, wherein the specific
hand in the direction of the warp and/or weft yarns that combine or
consist of lyocell filaments is at least 4 mN m.sup.2 g.sup.-1
after garment wash and/or at least 3 mN m.sup.2 g.sup.-1 after
bleaching.
12. The lyocell denim according to claim 1, wherein the yarn
consisting of or containing lyocell filaments has a luster of at
least 20% reflection.
13. A garment comprising a lyocell denim according to claim 1.
14. A yarn comprising lyocell filaments in a denim fabric.
Description
[0001] The invention relates to a Denim fabric.
[0002] Denim is a fabric which is usually woven from cotton as a
warp-faced textile having a twill pattern. A very common denim
fabric is indigo-dyed denim, in which only the warp is dyed. The
weft stays white. The core of the warp, however, remains undyed,
which results in fading characteristics which are typical for
denim. Due to the warp-faced weaving, denim is colored--typically
indigo--on the outside and white--uncolored--on the inside.
[0003] Although cotton is a fiber which is highly resistant and
therefore able to undergo even aggressive finishing, its mechanical
properties and its haptic qualities are not ideal and give denim
only a small range of capabilities.
[0004] Therefore, it was tried in the past to improve the qualities
for denim by at least partly replacing the cotton by silk and/or
man-made fibers and filaments. One such example is the addition of
Elastane for increasing elasticity. Typically up to 3% elastane may
be added; more elastane is detrimental to longevity.
[0005] Man-made continuous filament yarns are widely used in the
textile industry to produce fabrics with a distinct character
compared to fabrics produced from yarns made using staple fiber. A
continuous filament yarn is one in which all of the fibers are
continuous throughout any length of the yarn. A continuous filament
yarn will commonly consist of 20 to 200 or more individual fibers
which are all parallel to each other and the axis of the yarn when
produced. The yarn is produced by extruding a solution or melt of a
polymer or a polymer derivative and then winding the yarn produced
onto a bobbin or reel or by forming a cake by centrifugal
winding.
[0006] Synthetic polymer continuous filament yarns are common. For
example, nylon, polyester and polypropylene continuous filament
yarns are used in a wide variety of fabrics. They are produced by
melt spinning a molten polymer through a spinneret with a number of
holes corresponding to the number of fibers required in the yarn
produced. After the molten polymer has started to solidify, the
yarn may be drawn to orient the polymer molecules and improve the
properties of the yarn.
[0007] Continuous filament yarns can also be spun from cellulose
derivatives such as cellulose diacetate and cellulose triacetate by
dry spinning. The polymer is dissolved in a suitable solvent and
then extruded through a spinneret. The solvent evaporates quickly
after extrusion causing the polymer to precipitate in the form of a
yarn. The newly produced yarn may be drawn to orient the polymer
molecules.
[0008] Continuous filament yarns can further be produced from
cellulose using the viscose process. Cellulose is converted to
cellulose xanthate by reaction with sodium hydroxide and carbon
disulphide and then dissolved in a sodium hydroxide solution. The
cellulose solution, commonly called viscose, is extruded through a
spinneret into an acid bath. The sodium hydroxide is neutralized
causing the cellulose to precipitate. At the same time, the
cellulose xanthate is converted back to cellulose by reaction with
the acid. The newly formed fiber is drawn to orient the cellulose
molecules, washed to remove reactants from the fiber and then dried
and wound onto a bobbin. In earlier versions of this process, the
wet yarn was collected into a cake using a centrifugal winder--a
Topham Box. The cake of yarn was then dried in an oven before
winding onto a bobbin.
[0009] Continuous filament cellulose yarns are also produced using
the cupro process. Cellulose is dissolved in a solution of
cuprammonium hydroxide. The resulting solution is extruded into a
water bath where the cuprammonium hydroxide is diluted and the
cellulose precipitates. The resulting yarn is washed, dried and
wound onto a bobbin.
[0010] Cellulosic continuous filament yarn produced by either the
viscose or the cupro process can be made into fabrics by weaving.
Fabrics produced are used for a variety of applications including
linings for women's apparel and menswear.
[0011] Fabrics made from continuous filament cellulose yarns are
good at moisture handling to enhance the comfort of the wearer.
They do not generate static electricity as readily as fabrics made
using continuous filament synthetic yarns.
[0012] Fabrics made from currently available continuous filament
cellulose yarns generally have poor physical properties. The dry
strength and the tear strength are poor compared to fabrics made
from synthetic polymers such as polyester. The wet strength is much
lower than the dry strength due to interactions between the
cellulose and water. The abrasion resistance is low. The
interactions with water also soften the cellulose causing the
fabrics made from the yarn to be unstable when wetted. This is
particularly problematic when washing these materials in a
household washing machine.
[0013] Due to these deficiencies, the products which were
originally made using continuous filament cellulose yarns are now
made mainly by synthetic polymer continuous filament yarns such as
polyester and nylon.
[0014] However, there are problems with the synthetic yarns.
Fabrics made using them do not have the moisture handling
capability of fabrics made from cellulose yarns. Synthetic fabrics
can generate static electricity. Some people find fabrics made from
the synthetic yarns are much less comfortable to wear than silk.
Further, fabrics made from synthetic yarns have poor washability,
requiring dry cleaning to avoid excessive shrinkage.
[0015] Regarding the available denim fabrics, there is thus a need
to create a denim fabric which has high moisture absorption, can be
finished with a large variety of even aggressive agents, which is
washable and soft.
[0016] This object is solved by a denim fabric that is made from
weft yarns and warp yarns, wherein at least one of the weft yarns
and the warp yarns contains or consists of lyocell filaments.
[0017] Such a lyocell filament denim withstands aggressive
finishing agents. Further, the denim comprising or consisting of
lyocell filament yarn is softer and smoother even than denim with a
silk component. Thus, the inventive lyocell filament denim gives
rise to a new class of fabrics with an entirely new set of
properties. This is all the more surprising as it would have been
expected from the properties of cotton yarn that--if at all--denim
containing or consisting of lyocell staple fiber would be a
replacement for cotton denim.
[0018] Lyocell is the generic name given to a type of cellulosic
man-made fiber produced by a direct dissolution process. The
lyocell process is described e.g. in U.S. Pat. No. 4,246,221 and WO
93/19230.
[0019] A slurry of wood pulp is formed with a solution of amine
oxide in water. Water is then evaporated from the slurry in a thin
film evaporator vessel. When the water level is reduced below a
certain level, the cellulose forms a solution in the amine oxide.
The resulting viscous liquid solidifies to a glassy solid below
about 70.degree. C. If maintained above this temperature, it can be
pumped through a spinneret to form filaments which are then
immediately immersed in water where the dilution of the amine oxide
causes the cellulose to precipitate.
[0020] The spinneret used for extrusion of the amine oxide
cellulose solution has a number of holes corresponding to the
number of filaments required in the continuous filament yarn. After
extrusion, the newly formed yarn is washed clean of amine oxide
with a counter current flow of water. This washing may be done on
self advancing reels on which water is introduced to wash the
fiber. A finish may be applied to aid further processing and the
yarn is dried. The washed and dried yarn is wound onto a
bobbin.
[0021] In the lyocell process, cellulose in the form of wood pulp
is the only raw material used. The wood pulp used comes from
sustainable managed forests. The filaments produced are 100%
cellulose and are the only output from the process. The amine oxide
solvent is recovered from the washing water and reused to produce
further filament. This recovery can be as high as 99.7%. As a
result, the environmental impact of the lyocell process is very
low. There are virtually no releases of gaseous or liquid emissions
from the process and the filament produced is solvent free.
[0022] By contrast the viscose process uses carbon disulphide,
sodium hydroxide, sulphuric acid and zinc sulphate. Hydrogen
sulphide and carbon disulphide can be released from the process
unless a great deal of care is taken. Sodium sulphate is produced
as a by-product of the process.
[0023] The invention can be further improved by the following
additional features, which can be combined independent of one
another and which each exhibit a different technical effect.
[0024] The continuous filament lyocell yarns used to produce the
products of the invention may be the as produced yarn in an
untwisted state or may be twisted by rewinding. It may be a doubled
yarn. It may be combined with another continuous filament yarn or
staple fiber yarn by twisting the yarns together or by
intermingling using for example an air jet.
[0025] The lyocell denim according to the invention contains
preferably at least 10% lyocell filaments in at least one of the
weft and the warp yarn. Preferably, the minimum overall content of
lyocell filaments in the lyocell denim is above 10%. A content of
more than 10% can improve the handfeel of the fabric significantly
given the soft structure of a yarn containing or consisting of
Lyocell filaments. Consequently, the total content of lyocell of at
least 10% already gives a haptical impact independent of whether
the Lyocell filament is used in warp or weft. Moreover, a blend of
at least 10% lyocell filaments with other synthetic or cellulose
filaments, e.g. with Viscose or Cupro filaments, or with Viscose or
Cupro staple fibers, or wool and cotton improves the strength of
the yarn. Finally, a blend of at least 10% lyocell filaments and
synthetics improves the breathability and moisture management of
the fabric significantly.
[0026] The dyeing and finishing procedures of the denim process are
very demanding as the combine a strong chemical impact with a
strong mechanical treatment of the fabric. Consequently, viscose
and silk fibers cannot be used in these processes as they would not
withstand this procedure. This is the reason why viscose and/or
cupro staple fibers and filaments can only be used in a very small
portion in combination with lyocell filaments or may even need to
be replaced by lyocell filaments in another embodiment.
[0027] According to another preferred embodiment, the denim is
bleached. In contrast to e.g. denims with a silk content, the
lyocell filaments are capable of being treated by aggressive
finishing agents such as chlorine bleach. Moreover, it has been
surprisingly found that such an aggressive finishing agent, in
particular chlorine bleach, softens the yarn containing or
consisting of lyocell filaments, and thus actually improves
softness and smoothness of the lyocell denim.
[0028] The lyocell denim according to the invention has a superior
softness. An indirect measure for softness is the TS7 value as
determined by a TSA tissue softness analyzer. According to one
embodiment, the denim according to the invention has a TS7 value of
no more than 8 in the fixed state, i.e. before garment wash.
Moreover, a TS7 value of no more than 6 can be obtained with the
inventive denim after garment wash, and even after bleaching.
[0029] The TSA also yields another parameter, the TS750 value,
which is correlated to smoothness. Preferably, the denim according
to the invention in the fixed state has a TS750 value of no more
than 120. A TS750 value of no more than 120 may also be maintained
after garment wash and/or after bleaching.
[0030] With the above-indicated smoothness and/or softness, the
denim according to the invention has higher smoothness and/or
softness than a cotton denim and an even partly superior softness
and/or smoothness to denim with silk yarn.
[0031] Preferably, the denim also has high mechanical resilience.
For example, the denim may score at least 15,000 cycles to hole
formation in a Martindale abrasion test in the fixed state, i.e.
before garment wash. In another embodiment, the denim may score
8,000 cycles to hole formation after garment wash and/or after
bleaching. This indicates that the denim according to the invention
can be used for textiles that are subject to strong wear.
[0032] The outer face of the denim, i.e. the warp face of the
denim, may, in another embodiment, have a pilling grade of no worse
than 5 in the fixed state, i.e. before garment wash, and/or no
worse than 5 after garment wash and no worse than 5 after
bleaching.
[0033] Yarn strength of the denim in the at least one, warp and/or
weft, direction in which the lyocell filament yarn is used is
preferably at least 20 cN/tex, more preferably at least 25 cN/tex,
in the fixed state cond. 20/65 and/or at least 10 cN/tex,
preferably at least 20 cN/tex in the wet state. After garment wash,
the yarn strength in the at least one, warp and/or weft, direction
in which the lyocell filament yarn is used was preferably at least
4.5 cN/tex, more preferably at least 5 cN/tex cond. 20/65, and
preferably at least 3, preferably at least 7 cN/tex wet. After
bleaching, yarn strength in the at least one, warp and/or weft,
direction in which the lyocell filament yarn is used, is at least 2
cN/tex, preferably at least 3 cN/tex. cond. 20/65, and preferably
at least 2 cN/tex, more preferably at least 5 cN/tex wet.
[0034] Yarn elongation of the weft and/or warp yarn which contains
or consists of lyocell filaments may be at least 4% after fixation
and/or at least 2% after garment wash and/or at least 1% after
bleaching.
[0035] The hairiness of the denim according to the invention may
have a grade of no worse than 4 after garment wash and of no worse
than 3 after bleaching on the warp face, i.e. the outer face of the
denim.
[0036] The fiber splice of the denim according to the invention may
have a grade of no worse than 4 before and/or after fixation and/or
of no worse than 4.5 after garment wash and/or of no worse than 4.5
after bleaching.
[0037] All the above parameters qualify the denim according to the
invention as a fabric suitable for an extremely wide range of denim
applications. The combination of softness, smoothness and luster,
on the one hand, and the mechanical properties such as wear
resistance and yarn strength, on the other, present a unique
combination for denims.
[0038] The specific hand as determined by a Handle-O-Meter in the
direction of the warp and/or weft yarns that contain or consist of
lyocell filaments is at least 4 mN m.sup.2 g.sup.-1 after garment
wash and/or at least 3 mN m.sup.2 g.sup.-1 after bleaching. These
values indicate a high smoothness and flexibility of the inventive
denim.
[0039] The luster of the warp and/or weft yarn containing,
preferably consisting of, lyocell filaments may be at least 20%
reflection. This allows creating a denim having high gloss.
[0040] The invention also relates to a garment, in particular a
garment of women's apparel, and/or menswear, such as jackets,
coats, blouses, dresses and pants, in which a lyocell denim as
described above is used.
[0041] Further, the invention relates to the use of a yarn
containing or consisting of lyocell filaments in a denim
fabric.
[0042] Moisture regain of the fabric as measured according to ASTMD
1909 is an indicator for the comfort level. Mulberry silk has 11%
of moisture regain and offers one of the best comfort levels of all
fabrics with respect to moisture regain. The lyocell filament yarn
and/or denim according to the invention preferably has a moisture
regain of at least 13% which results in a similar or even better
comfort than mulberry silk.
[0043] The lyocell filament denim of the invention may be of any
style, weave or finish that is suitable for production with a
continuous filament yarn and results in a denim comparable to
cotton. The lyocell filament denim may be constructed as plain
weave, twill, satin, sateen, hopsack, cord and fancy weaves.
Fabrics may be woven using any loom suitable for weaving continuous
filament yarns including shuttle looms, rapier looms, projectile
looms or ribbon looms.
[0044] The lyocell denim fabrics produced using continuous filament
lyocell yarns can have aesthetics and appearance similar to a
fabric produced from continuous filament viscose yarn, but have
significantly better physical properties. The higher strength and
modulus of the yarn result in improved fabric breaking strength,
tear strength, abrasion resistance and stability. The wet fabric
properties are also superior.
[0045] FIG. 1 shows schematically a garment 1 which at least partly
is made from a lyocell denim 2. The garment 1 is only schematically
shown to be pants but not limited thereto. The garment 1 may be
also a dress, a suit, a costume, a jacket, a shirt or a blouse or
parts of and/or on these garments.
[0046] The lyocell denim 2 comprises weft yarns 4 and warp yarns 6,
which may be twisted. At least one of the weft yarns 4 and the warp
yarns 6 contains or consists of lyocell filaments.
[0047] An example of a warp and/or weft yarns 6, 4 with at least
one lyocell filament 8 is shown in FIG. 2. FIG. 3 shows a twisted
warp and/or weft 3-ply yarn 4, 6 with at least one lyocell
filament. At least one of the filaments 8 is a lyocell filament.
The twisted filament may have any number of filaments and any twist
direction. Preferably, at least 50% of the yarn 4, 6 consist of
lyocell filaments 8.
[0048] To investigate the quality of the lyocell filament denim
according to the invention over silk, samples were prepared and
compared to comparative examples made from denim consisting of or
containing cotton. For denim, bottom is the benchmark, against
which any denim using yarn from man-made fibers or filaments has to
compete in the market. The samples of the inventive lyocell
filament denim are compared to comparative examples using the
following tests:
[0049] Tests
[0050] A Martindale abrasion test according to DIN EN ISO
12947-2;
[0051] a Martindale pilling test according to DIN EN ISO
12945-2;
[0052] washing shrinkage according to DIN EN ISO 5077; from the
absolute values of the shrinkage in both samples direction the sum
was taken as a combined shrinkage;
[0053] fastness to rubbing according to ISO 105 X12;
[0054] AATCC durable press rating according to DIN EN ISO
15487;
[0055] air permeability according to DIN EN ISO 9237;
[0056] fastness according to DIN EN 20105-A02;
[0057] yarn strength in the warp and weft according to DIN EN ISO
2062,
[0058] moisture regain according to ASTMD 1909,
[0059] luster of the yarns was determined at an angle of 45.degree.
according to EN 14086-01/2003,
[0060] luster of the fabrics was determined at an angle of
75.degree. according to TAPPI T480.
[0061] For the end consumer, it is important how the look of a
fabric changes after washing. To assess this the surface aspects
hairiness, pilling and fiber splice were determined according to
the following tests:
[0062] The tests were carried out by 3 persons in a dark room in
which a color assessment cabinet "Multilight Datacolor" of Variolux
with daylight lamps D65 was provided. The lamps were mounted on an
upper side of the cabinet.
[0063] For testing hairieness, the test sample was held oblique by
the test person and the hairiness was graded between best (grade 5,
no hairiness) and worst (grade 1, long protruding fibers up to 2
mm).
[0064] The number of pillings (hairy knots on the fabric surface)
was assessed using reference samples (knits K3 or K2, or wovens W3
or W2) of EMPA Standard SN 198525 analogous to DIN EN ISO 12 945-2.
The reference samples are graded with 1 to 5 and are compared to
the test samples. Grade 5 corresponds to a denim having no
pillings. The more pillings there are on the surface of the test
samples the worse the grade gets. The worst grade is 1.
[0065] Fiber splice is created if fibrillic fibers are moved to the
surface by scouring. The fibrillic fibers are brushlike ends with
stick out if the scoured sample is analyzed under a microscope. For
measuring fiber splice, a microscope SM with an X10 eyepiece of UHL
Technische Mikroskope was used. For a smooth surface which showed
no fibrilles, grade 5 was given. If there was a dense fur of long,
curved fiber ends that were partly detached from the surface, grade
1 was given.
[0066] In all three tests, intermediate grades were possible.
[0067] If samples were subjected to washing, washing was performed
according to DIN EN ISO 6330. Tests to assess parameters in the dry
state are performed in the conditioned state 65/20. All standards
mentioned in this application are included by reference in their
entirety.
[0068] Samples were prepared as follows. Hereby, weight was
determined according to DIN EN 12127. Yarn count in the weft and
warp was performed in accordance with DIN 53820-3.
[0069] An overview of the material and the properties of samples 1,
2, 3, 5 and 6, which concern a lyocell filament denim, and
comparative samples 4 and 7, which concern the benchmark cotton,
against which samples 1, 2, 3 5 and 65 are tested, is given in
Table 1.
[0070] Samples 1, 2, 3, 5 and 6, and Comparative Samples 4 and
7
[0071] Sample 1 was a denim 1857-A, in which the warp consisted of
bright, untwisted yarn having dtex 500f300 that was made of lyocell
filaments. The weft yarn consisted of cotton yarn having a core of
Lycra T400. This resulted in a fabric having 70% lyocell yarns, 20%
cotton, 8% elastomultiester and 2% elastane. The denim had a weight
of 343 g m.sup.-2.
[0072] Sample 2 was a denim 978-150-814 containing 33% lyocell
filaments and 67% cotton. The weight was 143 g m.sup.-2. The warp
was made of cotton ring yarn Z. The weft was made from yarn dtex
150f90.
[0073] Sample 3 was a denim 1857-8, in which the warp consisted of
bright untwisted yarn of 100% lyocell filaments, the yarn having a
linear mass density of dtex 500f300. The weft was a 100% polyester
yarn with an ELAS core of Lycra T400. This resulted in a denim
having 356 gm.sup.-2 and 70% lyocell, 28% polyester and 2%
elastane.
[0074] Sample 6 was a denim 1857-CNF containing 70% lyocell, 28%
cotton and 2% elastane. Warp consisted of a lyocell filament yarn
having 556 dtex. Weft was made from dull cotton ring yarn with an
elastane core.
[0075] Sample 5 was a denim 978-100-814 of 45% lyocell and 55%
cotton. Warp consisted of cotton ring yarn Z and weft consisted of
lyocell yarn dtex 100f 60. The material weight was 128 g
m.sup.-2.
[0076] Comparative Sample 4 was a denim 840-814 made from 59%
cotton and 41% silk, where the warp yarn was made of cotton and the
weft yarn was made from silk. This resulted in a denim that had
high softness and smoothness, and a luster. The weight was 171 g
m.sup.-2.
[0077] Comparative Sample 7 was denim 435-4047 consisting of 98%
cotton and 2% elastene. Warp was made from cotton ring yarn and
weft from cotton ring yarn with a dull elastane core.
[0078] Samples 1 to 3 and 6 were benchmarked against comparative
sample 7 with respect to washability, resistance against finishing
agents, smoothness, softness and luster.
[0079] Samples 2 and 5 were benchmarked against comparative sample
4, to compare a lyocell warp denim against a cotton warp denim as
both featured the same weft material.
[0080] The samples and comparative samples underwent the following
finishing steps. After each finishing step, the samples and
comparative examples were tested.
[0081] Fixation
[0082] First, samples 1, 3 and 4 and comparative samples 7 were
fixed for 45 seconds at 195.degree. C. and then tested. The results
of these tests are summarized in Table 2.
[0083] Garment Wash
[0084] Samples 1, 2, 3, 5, 6 and comparative samples 4 and 7 were
garment-washed as follows.
[0085] Fibrillation was carried out with a liquor ratio of 1:60
with 2.5 kg fabric and 150 l liquor at 22 rpm for 20 minutes at
60.degree. C. with maximum heating rate in 2 g/l Persoftal L, 2 g/l
soda and 0.3 g/l Lavasperse KDS conc.
[0086] Then, the liquor was cooled down to 40.degree. C. and rinsed
cold with 300 l, then rinsed warm with 150 l for 5 minutes at
50.degree. C., where heating started right at the beginning of the
rinsing, and then again rinsed cold with 300 l.
[0087] After rinsing, enzyme washing was carried out at a liquor
ratio of 1:60 again with 2.5 kg fabric and 150 l liquor at 22 rpm.
The liquor contained 2 g/l Persoftal L, 3 g/l Peristal E and 0.3
g/l Lavasperse KDS conc. The pH value was controlled to be between
pH 4.5-5. After heating to 55.degree. C. at the maximum heating
rate, the pH value was checked. At pH 5.5, 2 g/l Perizym 2000 were
added before adding the enzyme and then the material was processed
at 55.degree. C. for 55 minutes. Then the material was heated to
85.degree. C. and treated at 85.degree. C. for 15 minutes.
[0088] The liquor was then drained and the material rinsed as
follows: First, cold rinsing with 300 l, then warm rinsing with 150
l, where the heating started with the filling of the second rinsing
step. Warm rinsing continued for 5 minutes at 50.degree. C.
Finally, cold rinsing took place with 300 l.
[0089] Reviving took place at a liquor ratio of 1:60 as above using
2% Tubingal RGH, 1% Tubingal RWM, 3 g/l Peristal E at 15 minutes
and 40.degree. C. after heating at the maximum rate.
[0090] The liquor was then drained and the material was
tumble-dryed for 50 minutes at 80.degree. C. and then allowed to
cool down for 20 minutes.
[0091] After that, the samples and comparative examples were tested
as described above. The results are summarized in Table 3.
[0092] Strong Bleach
[0093] For a final series of tests, samples 1, 2, 3, 5, 6 and
comparative samples 4 and 7 were bleached as follows:
[0094] Pre-scouring took place at a liquor ratio of 1:60 with 2.5
kg of fabrics and 150 l of liquor. For prewashing, 2 g/l Persoftal
L, 0.5 g/l NaOH 100% (1 g/l NaOH 50%) and 0.2 g/l Lava Sperse KDS
conc. were used. Pre-scouring was carried out for 20 minutes at
60.degree. C. (maximum heating rate).
[0095] After that, cooling down to 40.degree. C. and then cold
rinsing with 300 l took place.
[0096] Bleaching took place at a liquor ratio of 1:60 and 15 rpm,
cold, for 30 minutes, again with 2.5 kg fabrics and 150 l liquor
containing 2 g/l Soda and 0.4 g/l Lava Sperse KDS conc. The pH
value was checked and maintained at pH 10. As bleaching agent, 3
g/l active chlorine (20 ml/l bleaching lye solution 150 g/l) was
used.
[0097] The liquor was then drained and the material was cold-rinsed
with 300 l and warm rinsed with 150 l as above.
[0098] Dechlorination was performed with 2 ml/l hydrogen peroxide
50% for 30 minutes at 40.degree. C.
[0099] Then cold rinsing with 300 l, warm rinsing with 150 l for 5
minutes at 50.degree. C. (heating started with the rinsing), and
cold rinsing with 300 l was performed.
[0100] Then, enzyme washing, followed by rinsing and reviving and
tumble drying took place as follows:
[0101] After rinsing, enzyme washing was carried out at a liquor
ratio of 1:60 again with 2.5 kg fabric and 150 l liquor at 22 rpm.
The liquor contained 2 g/l Persoftal L, 3 g/l Peristal E and 0.3
g/l Lavasperse KDS conc. The pH value was maintained between pH
4.5-5. After heating to 55.degree. C. at the maximum heating rate,
the pH value was checked. before adding the enzyme and then the
material was processed at 55.degree. C. for 55 minutes. Then the
material was heated to 85.degree. C. and treated at 85.degree. C.
for 15 minutes.
[0102] The liquor was then drained and the material rinsed as
follows: First, cold rinsing with 300 l, then warm rinsing with 150
l, where the heating started with the filling of the second rinsing
step. Warm rinsing continued for 5 minutes at 50.degree. C.
Finally, cold rinsing took place with 300 l.
[0103] Reviving took place at a liquor ratio of 1:60 as above using
2% Tubingal RGH, 1% Tubingal RWM, 3 g/l Peristal E at 15 minutes
and 40.degree. C. after heating at the maximum rate.
[0104] Then, the samples and comparative examples were tested as
above. The results of these tests are summarized in Table 4.
[0105] RESULTS
[0106] From Tables 1 to 4, the following is apparent: Comparing
samples 2 and 5 to comparative sample 4, the tenacity of the
lyocell filament both wet and dry according to the invention is
significantly higher than the tenacity of the silk denim of
comparative sample 4. Further, yarn strength and yarn elongation
both dry and wet are superior in all lyocell filament denims
compared to non-lyocell filament cotton denims as exemplified in
comparative sample 4 and 7.
[0107] Further, it has been demonstrated that lyocell filament
denim--as does cotton--withstands even aggressive finishing agents
such as chlorine bleach that destroys silk.
[0108] With respect to pilling, hairiness and fiber splice, the
lyocell filament denim is at least comparable to if not better by
one grade than cotton denim before and after garment wash and after
bleaching. Further, the lyocell filaments are not subject to the
fibrillation that occurs with cotton after washing.
[0109] Although cotton still has higher yarn strength before and
after garment wash and after the bleaching, yarn strength of the
inventive lyocell filament denim is still very good. In particular,
the yarn strength of the lyocell filament denim is paired with
luster, softness and smoothness that are all superior to cotton
denim and can only be achieved with a denim containing silk.
However, the latter cannot be bleached.
[0110] This becomes clear from the following tests, in which the
softness and smoothness are analyzed using the TSA Tissue Software
Analyzer (TSA Test), a Handle-O-Meter, and a handfeel panel.
[0111] The TSA Test
[0112] The TSA test was carried out to verify that the haptic
qualities of the lyocell filament denim of samples 1 to 5 are at
least equal if not superior to the haptic qualities of the silk
denim of comparative sample 4.
[0113] The two predominant haptic qualities that are improved by
using silk in denim are softness and smoothness. To assess these
characteristics objectively, the TSA test was carried out.
[0114] The TSA test is described in SchloBer et al.,
"Griffbeurteilung von Textilien mittels Schallanalyse", Meilland
Textilberichte, 1/2102, p. 43-45, in the emtec publication Gruner,
"A new and objective measuring technique to analyze the softness of
tissue" (2012), in the TSA Operating Instructions, and in "Neue and
Objektive Messtechnik fur Softness-Analyse" in avr-Allgemeiner
Vliesstoff Report 5/2015, p. 99-101. Originally developed to
measure softness and smoothness of tissues and non-wovens using
sound spectra, it has been adapted to also evaluate the softness
and smoothness of woven fabrics.
[0115] The TSA test was performed using a TSA Tissue Softness
Analyzer device of emtec electronics GmbH, Leipzig, Germany, and
the software ESM which is shipped with the TSA. The TSA measures a
sound spectrum which results from pressing and rotating a star-like
body against a sample fabric with a defined force. For testing, the
fabric is clamped around its perimeter and unsupported otherwise,
in particular opposite the rotating body. In the TSA test performed
here, the software and its evaluation algorithm was not used.
Instead, the sound pressure as measured by the TSA at 7 kHz (TS7)
was taken as an objective indirect measure of softness and the
sound pressure at 750 Hz (TS750) in the sound spectrum measured by
the TSA was taken as an objective indirect measure of smoothness.
The sound pressure is automatically given by the TSA as dB V2 rms,
where V is the rotational velocity of the rotating body. Using
these values directly avoided any problems that may have arisen due
to the EMS algorithm having been developed for tissue, and not for
woven fabrics. A total of four probes was subjected to the TSA test
for each sample.
[0116] For testing, a fabric sample of 11 cm diameter was clamped
as required by the TSA device and tested without stretching.
[0117] Lower values of TS7 indicate higher softness and lower
values of TS750 indicate higher value of smoothness.
[0118] Handle-O-Meter Tests
[0119] The Handle-O-Meter tests were carried out using a
Handle-O-Meter testing device of Thwing-Albert Instrument Company,
West Berlin, N.J., USA. Sample size was 10 cm.times.10 cm. The 1/4
inch slot was used with a 1,000 g beam and a stainless steel
surface. The tests were conducted on samples cond. 65/20.
[0120] In both the TSA and the Handle-O-Meter tests, only the
right, outer side of the denim was considered. The results are
summarized in Table 5.
[0121] As a result, the Handle-O-Meter yields two force
measurements which are assigned to two orthogonal directions, a
machine direction MD which in the chosen set-up corresponded to the
warp direction and a cross direction CD which in the chosen setup
corresponded to the weft direction. These forces are correlated to
the stiffness and smoothness of the tested surface. The force is
normalized with the bulk weight of the test sample, resulting in a
specific hand in mN m.sup.2 g.sup.-1.
[0122] From Table 5, it follows that the cotton denim of
comparative sample 7 s inferior regarding smoothness to samples 1,
3 and 6. Although these lyocell filament denims are stiffer than
the cotton denim according to comparative sample 7 before garment
wash, they are softer than comparative sample 7 after garment
wash.
[0123] The silk denim of comparative sample 4 is less smooth then
samples 2 and 5, in which lyocell endless filaments are used in the
weft instead of silk. Further, the lyocell filament denim is softer
than the silk denim of comparative sample 4 before finishing. After
finishing, softness of samples 2 and 5 corresponds to the softness
of comparative sample 4.
[0124] Thus, it can be concluded from the TSA and the
Handle-O-Meter tests that the lyocell filament denim according to
the invention combines indeed superior softness and smoothness with
the capability of being bleached. In addition, the lyocell filament
denim has high tenacity. This combination results in a new class of
denim fabrics.
[0125] Handfeel Panel
[0126] To verify the results from the TSA and Handle-O-Meter tests,
a handfeel panel was used. The panel was put together consisting of
ten independent textile experts. The panel's task was to evaluate
objectively the touch of the lyocell filament denim according to
the invention in comparison to the comparative examples.
[0127] In order to obtain reproducible results independent of the
panel members, the handfeel panel operated as follows:
[0128] All samples to be tested by the handfeel panel were provided
in a format 17 cm.times.17 cm and were glued to carbon using a
double-sided gluing tape approximately 2 cm from the border on the
upper edge. The fabric sample was glued onto the cardboard with the
right, warp-faced side facing to the front. It was oriented such
that the weft direction was horizontal and the warp direction was
vertical.
[0129] For evaluation of the handfeel a semantic grid was defined
by providing contrasting pairs of descriptive adjectives for
describing the handfeel. The term of the contrasting pairs which
corresponded to the desired quality is considered "best". Thus, for
a fabric, in which smoothness was a desired quality, higher grades
will be given than for the opposite quantity, coarseness. Grades
ranged from 1 (worst) to 10 (best).
[0130] Further, it was prescribed how the evaluation should be
done, e.g. by prescribing the motion of the hand over the fabric
for assessing smoothness.
[0131] Reference sample fabrics of the same construction type
(weave) with as close construction parameters as possible and, at
the same time, significant differences in handfeel were pre-defined
for each word pair. For example, a fabric being considered as
having a reference coarseness and a fabric being considered as
having a reference smoothness were given to the handfeel panel.
[0132] The grades for the respective reference fabrics were fixed
at 2 and 8 respectively. Thus, the reference fabric for the worse
quality of a word pair had by definition a grade 2 and the
reference fabric for the better quality of a word pair a grade 8.
Assigning the grades 2 and 8, respectively, allowed to expand the
scale during the test if materials with a better or worse quality
than the two reference materials were met. Thus, the reference
material for coarseness was defined to have a grade 2 and the
reference material for smoothness was defined to have a grade 8 in
the coarseness-smoothness scale. All other materials which were
then tested had to be graded by the handfeel panel relative to the
reference material.
[0133] For testing the denim samples, the following semantic grid
was used:
[0134] for assessing touch: cotton-like (grade 2) and silk-like
(grade 8);
[0135] for assessing consistence: loose (grade 2) and compact
(grade 8);
[0136] for assessing wearing sensation: stiff (grade 2) and
flexible (grade 8);
[0137] for assessing surface: coarse (grade 2); and smooth (grade
8).
[0138] As reference material for grade 2, comparative sample 7 was
used. As reference material for grade 8, comparative sample 4 was
used for all word pairs.
[0139] The panel was instructed to assess the above characteristics
as follows:
[0140] To evaluate touch, the sample card had to be taken up with
one hand and the fabric was allowed to fold down. Then, the
handfeel panel members were asked to grip into the pending fabric
in such a way that the right (warp-faced) side of the denim touched
the palm;
[0141] Consistence describes whether the fabric gives a feel of
having a more open or more dens weaving. The sample card was put on
table before the individual handfeel panel members. The fabric was
taken up with both hands and kneading and stretching the
fabric.
[0142] Wearing sensation is determined by again lifting the sampe
card with one hand and allow the fabric to fold down. The sample
card is then shaken to evaluate the falling pattern of the fabric.
Then, the fabric is gripped by the free hand for further
assessment.
[0143] Finally, for the judging the surface feel the cardboard
lying was put on a table. The warp-faced surface was assessed by
moving the palm of the hand in warp direction and in weft
direction.
[0144] For each sample fabric and each word pair, the average
across the evaluations by the individual handfeel panel members and
the deviation from the mean was calculated. The average was used to
assess and rank the samples. A summary of the results is given in
Table 6.
[0145] Luster
[0146] Luster of individual yarns usable in a lyocell denim
according to the invention was measured using a glossmeter. The
results in % reflection of incident light are given in Table 7. For
measuring the luster of yarns, they were wound on wrap-over
cardboard and luster was measured according to EN 14086-01/2003 at
45.degree.. The luster of fabrics was determined according to TAPPI
T480 at 75.degree.. The viewing angle was directed along the yarn
direction for measuring yarn luster.
[0147] Samples 1, 3, 7, 8 were yarns made from 100% bright lyocell
filaments having the linear mass densities indicated in Table
7.
[0148] Samples 2, 4, 5, 6 are comparative samples.
[0149] Sample 3 had a far superior luster to all other samples and
the comparative examples. The luster of samples 1 and 6 was
comparable to the denim of comparative sample 7, containing
silk.
[0150] Luster of the yarn usable for denim was at least 20%
reflection.
[0151] Thus it can be concluded that the inventive lyocell filament
denim also combines a superior luster with resistance against
aggressive finishing agents.
TABLE-US-00001 TABLE 1 Samples and Comparative Examples Untreated
Comparative Comparative Sample 3 Sample 1 Sample 5 Sample 2 Sample
4 Sample 7 Sample 6 design code Denim Denim Denim Denim Denim Denim
Denim 1857-B 1857-A 978-100-814 978-150-814 840-814 435-4047 1857-C
NF material 70% Lyocell 70% Lyocell 45% Lyocell 33% Lyocell 59%
Cotton 98% Cotton 70% Lyocell filaments filaments filaments
filaments 41% Silk 2% Elastane filaments 28% Polyester 20% Cotton
55% Cotton 67% Cotton 28% Cotton 2% Elastane 8% Elasto- 2% Elastane
multiester 2% Elastane material warp 100% Lyocell 100% Lyocell 100%
100% 100% 100% 100% Lyocell filaments filaments Cotton Cotton
Cotton Cotton filaments dtex 500f300 dtex 500f300 dtex 500f300
bright 0 twist bright 0 twist bright 0 twist filament filament
filament material weft 100% Polyester 100% Cotton 100% Lyocell 100%
Lyocell 100% Silk 100% Cotton 100% Cotton with ELAS-core: with
core: filaments filaments double plied with Elastane with Elastane
Lycra T400 Lycra T400 100 dtex 150 dtex yarn filament from Invista
from Invista filament filament material 100% Lyocell 100% Lyocell
100% Cotton 100% Cotton 100% Cotton 100% Cotton 100% Lyocell
analyses - warp filaments filaments ring yarn Z ring yarn Z ring
yarn Z ring yarn Z filaments filament S filament S filament S
material 100% Polyester coreyarn Z: 100% Lyocell 100% Lyocell 100%
Silk 100% Cotton 100% Cotton analyses - weft dull with coating:
filaments filaments double plied with Elastane with Elastane
Elastane core 100% Cotton filament S filament S yarn filament S
core dull core dull dull core: 100% PES ring yarn Z ring yarn Z
ring yarn Z with Elastane core filaments-number 300 300 60 90 -- --
300 weight g/m.sup.2 356 343 128 143 171 335 332 Weave Twill 3/1
Twill 3/1 Twill 3/1 Twill 3/1 Twill 3/1 Twill 3/1 Twill 3/1 yarn
count - warp 526 526 556 dtex yarn count - warp 69/1 65/1 61/1 17
Nm yarn count - weft 94 154 159 dtex yarn count - weft 26 26 29 28
Nm single yarn count - 79 weft dtex yarn density - warp 383 386 540
541 553 347 344 yarns/dm yarn density - weft 237 228 380 355 377
201 239 yarns/dm yarn strength - warp cN/tex cond. 20/65 24 25.9
16.5 14 15.4 15.9 26.7 wet 19.4 16.6 14.3 15.7 16.1 19.5 19.4 yarn
strength - weft cN/tex cond. 20/65 24 11.8 22.7 32.2 28.6 12.5 11.9
wet 25.3 13.8 13.5 27.9 18.5 18.1 17.5 yarn elongation - warp %
cond. 7.1 6.7 4.5 4.7 5.1 5.5 8 wet 8.4 8.4 6.6 8.4 7.9 8.4 10.3
yarn elongation - weft % cond. 20.8 17.2 7.2 9.2 11.5 6.1 6.7 wet
23.6 24.4 6.4 11.7 13.7 15.6 14.6 surface aspect blue blue blue
blue blue blue blue after wash- filament filament yarn yarn yarn
yarn filament cycles - front side - original hairiness 3 3 2 2.5
3.5 4 4 pilling 4 3 4 4 3.5 4.5 4.5 fiber splice 2.5 3 2 2 2 2.5 3
surface aspect black white white white white white white after
wash- yarn yarn filament filament filament yarn yarn cycles reverse
side - original hairiness 2.5 2 3 3.5 4 2 2 pilling 3.5 4 4.5 4.5 4
3.5 4.5 fiber splice 3.5 2.5 3 3 2.5 2.5 3.5
TABLE-US-00002 TABLE 2 Samples and Comparative Examples After
Fixation Comparative Comparative Sample 3 Sample 1 Sample 5 Sample
2 Sample 4 Sample 7 Sample 6 yarn strength - warp cN/tex cond.
20/65 26.1 27.6 14.5 14.6 15.6 15.4 25.3 wet 20.9 19.5 16.2 15.9 16
16.7 19.9 yarn strength - weft cN/tex cond. 20/65 22.9 12.4 27.5
32.8 25.5 13.8 12.8 wet 24.1 15.7 13 27.8 18.7 16.7 14.9 yarn
elongation - warp % cond. 20/65 8.4 7.9 4.4 5 5.2 5.9 7.5 wet 9.2
10.1 7.7 7.6 7.3 6.6 9.5 yarn elongation - weft % cond. 20/65 31.3
26.1 7.9 9.8 11.5 6.8 6.2 wet 34 34.9 9.3 11.5 13.5 7.7 7.4
abrasion test Martindale cycles-sample 41250 40000 17000 16000
28750 27500 not destroyed cycles to hole 51250 48750 19000 18000
36250 32500 formation surface aspect blue blue blue blue blue blue
blue after wash- filament filament yarn yarn yarn yarn filament
cycles - front side - original hairiness 2 2 2 2 4 2.5 4.5 pilling
5 3 4 3.5 5 3.5 5 fiber splice 2.5 3 2 2 2.5 2.5 2.5 surface aspect
black white white white white white white after wash- yarn yarn
filament filament filament yarn yarn cycles reverse side - original
hairiness 1 1 2.5 3 3 2 1.5 pilling 3.5 4 4 4 5 3 4 fiber splice
3.5 2 2.5 2.5 2 3 2.5
TABLE-US-00003 TABLE 3 Samples and Comparative Examples After
Garment Wash Comparative Comparative Sample 3 Sample 1 Sample 5
Sample 2 Example 1 Example 2 Sample 4 yarn strength - warp cN/tex
cond. 20/65 5.5 5.1 8.1 5.5 4.5 11.8 4.4 wet 10.3 7.3 9 9 7.5 17
7.9 yarn strength - weft cN/tex cond. 20/65 19.9 8.2 4.7 7.3 19.8
10.2 8.4 wet 23.6 10.4 3.9 5.8 15.5 15.3 11.8 yarn elongation -
warp % cond. 20/65 1.6 2.2 4.2 2.7 2.2 4.5 1.6 wet 5.3 4.3 6.9 6.8
5.1 8.6 4.4 yarn elongation - weft % cond. 20/65 25.4 27.5 2.4 2.1
9.4 5.4 5 wet 37.7 32.6 2.9 2.9 13 12.2 10.2 abrasion test
Martindale cycles-sample 6500 6500 11000 not destroyed cycles to
hole 8500 9500 13000 formation surface aspect blue blue blue blue
blue blue blue after wash- filament filament yarn yarn yarn yarn
filament cycles - front side - original hairiness 3.5 3 3 3 2.5 2.5
2.5 pilling 4 4 4 3.5 3 4 5 fiber splice 1 1 3 2.5 2 1.5 1 surface
aspect black white white white white white white after wash- yarn
yarn filament filament filament yarn yarn cycles reverse side -
oriqinal hairiness 1 2.5 4 4 2.5 3 3 pilling 3 4 4.5 5 2 4 5 fiber
splice 4.5 2 1.5 1.5 1 3 2.5
TABLE-US-00004 TABLE 4 Samples and Comparative Examples After
Strong Chlorine Bleach Comparative Comparative Sample 3 Sample 1
Sample 5 Sample 2 Example 1 Example 2 Sample 4 yarn strength - warp
cN/tex cond. 20/65 4.3 3.4 4.9 4.6 no 9.8 2.1 material wet 6 6.4
8.6 7.8 no 14.9 5.7 material yarn strength - weft cN/tex cond.
20/65 21.7 9.2 2.3 3.6 no 10 8.8 material wet 22.8 10.7 2.2 3.8 no
14.3 11.3 material yarn elongation - warp % cond. 20/65 1.5 1.9 2.8
3 no 4.2 1.3 material wet 3.4 3.8 6.8 6.5 no 8.3 3.4 material yarn
elongation - weft % cond. 20/65 27.8 31.4 1 1.5 no 5.4 7.6 material
wet 33.2 34 1.7 2.4 no 11 9.9 material abrasion test Martindale
cycles-sample 5000 no not destroyed material cycles to hole 9500 no
formation material surface aspect blue blue blue blue blue blue
blue after wash- filament filament yarn yarn yarn yarn filament
cycles - front side - original hairiness 3 3 3.5 3 not 3 3 tested
pilling 5 5 4 4 4 5 fiber splice 1 1 2 2 1.5 1 surface aspect black
white white white white white white after wash- yarn yarn filament
filament filament yarn yarn cycles reverse side - original
hairiness 1.5 3 4.5 4 not 3.5 4 tested pilling 3 3.5 5 5 5 5 fiber
splice 4.5 2.5 1.5 1.5 2 2
TABLE-US-00005 TABLE 5 TSA and Handle-O-Mat Test Results Handle-
TSA O-Meter TS7 TS750 Specific Hand Bulk [dB [dB MD CD weight
V.sup.2 V.sup.2 [mN [mN [gm.sup.-2] rms] rms] m.sup.2/g] m.sup.2/g]
ORIGINAL Sample 3 368 15.69 176.84 6.5 6.9 Sample 1 345 21.37
124.39 Overload 1.7 Sample 5 127 5.23 52.30 2.1 2.4 Sample 2 143
4.98 58.96 1.8 3.3 Comparative Sample 4 172 17.04 118.02 9.3 4.7
Comparative Sample 7 337 13.48 240.17 6.2 2.3 Sample 6 338 7.33
141.91 18.9 2.5 Original fixed Sample 3 337 5.14 89.42 6.1 0.8
Sample 5 126 6.07 57.71 1.7 2.2 Sample 2 143 6.12 63.23 1.6 3.0
Comparative Sample 4 168 11.08 79.23 7.9 3.5 Comparative Sample 7
315 6.16 150.06 5.1 1.5 Sample 6 318 7.91 118.31 16.8 1.6 Garment
washed Sample 3 362 3.09 91.99 4.1 0.6 Sample 1 376 4.98 105.25
Sample 5 121 6.00 37.49 1.4 2.0 Sample 2 141 5.89 39.23 1.2 2.8
Comparative Sample 4 163 4.49 70.17 1.3 1.3 Comparative Sample 7
315 5.76 151.85 3.0 1.5 Sample 6 338 5.15 117.20 4.5 0.9 Chloride
strong bleached Sample 3 360 3.51 93.93 3.8 0.6 Sample 1 371 4.84
110.91 Sample 5 120 5.68 33.85 1.3 1.9 Sample 2 127 5.69 37.77 1.1
2.7 Comparative Sample 4 NO MATERIAL! Comparative Sample 7 310 5.66
141.56 3.0 1.3 Sample 6 330 5.73 104.03 4.4 0.9
TABLE-US-00006 TABLE 6 Handfeel Panel Tests garment strong fixed
washed bleached Comparative Sample 7 touch: cotton-like/silk-like
2.9 3.2 2.8 consistency: loose/compact 5.3 5.2 5.6 wearing
sensation: stiff/flexible 6.0 5.0 5.3 surface: coarse/smooth 3.0
3.3 3.7 Comparative Sample 4 touch: cotton-like/silk-like 5.7 7.2
-- consistency: loose/compact 7.1 6.1 -- wearing sensation:
stiff/flexible 4.4 7.8 -- surface: coarse/smooth 7.3 7.5 -- Sample
6 touch: cotton-like/silk-like 4.1 4.4 5.1 consistency:
loose/compact 6.0 5.9 6.3 wearing sensation: stiff/flexible 4.2 5.9
5.9 surface: coarse/smooth 3.3 5.8 6.3 Sample 1 touch:
cotton-like/silk-like 4.1 5.0 5.3 consistency: loose/compact 7.7
6.5 6.7 wearing sensation: stiff/flexible 2.6 6.7 5.6 surface:
coarse/smooth 5.0 5.9 6.2 Sample 2 touch: cotton-like/silk-like 7.5
7.2 7.7 consistency: loose/compact 6.2 6.0 6.3 wearing sensation:
stiff/flexible 7.5 7.8 7.9 surface: coarse/smooth 7.8 7.2 7.6
Sample 3 touch: cotton-like/silk-like 5.7 5.0 5.5 consistency:
loose/compact 6.4 6.2 6.0 wearing sensation: stiff/flexible 5.5 6.8
6.7 surface: coarse/smooth 5.6 5.3 6.6 Sample 5 touch:
cotton-like/silk-like 8.0 7.8 7.6 consistency: loose/compact 6.3
6.0 5.9 wearing sensation: stiff/flexible 7.7 7.9 7.6 surface:
coarse/smooth 8.0 7.3 7.6
TABLE-US-00007 TABLE 7 Luster Lustre Sample No. % Yarn Luster 26.10
40 dtex f30 bright (single filament 1.3 dtex) sample 1 Luster 22.32
56 dtex f30 bright (single filament 1.8 dtex) Cupro sample 2 Luster
28.19 80 dtex f60 bright (single filament 1.3 dtex) sample 3 Luster
23.10 84 dtex f45 bright (single filament 1.8 dtex) Cupro sample 4
Luster 7.89 84 dtex 124 bright (single filament 3.5 dtex) viscose
sample 5 Luster 8.49 110 dtex f40 bright (single filament 2.8 dtex)
viscose sample 6 Luster 21.32 300 dtex f180 bright (single filament
1.6 dtex) sample 7 Luster 16.32 500 dtex f300 bright (single
filament 1.6 dtex) sample 8
* * * * *