U.S. patent application number 16/744760 was filed with the patent office on 2020-05-14 for aqueous cosmetic composition comprising alkylcellulose.
This patent application is currently assigned to LOREAL. The applicant listed for this patent is L'OREAL. Invention is credited to Roberto CAVAZUTTI, Nathalie GEFFROY-HYLAND, Emille NGUYEN-HENIN.
Application Number | 20200146968 16/744760 |
Document ID | / |
Family ID | 45874212 |
Filed Date | 2020-05-14 |
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United States Patent
Application |
20200146968 |
Kind Code |
A1 |
CAVAZUTTI; Roberto ; et
al. |
May 14, 2020 |
AQUEOUS COSMETIC COMPOSITION COMPRISING ALKYLCELLULOSE
Abstract
The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition
comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least water,
at least alkylcellulose, at least a first nonvolatile oil chosen
from silicone oils and/or fluoro oils, and at least a second
hydrocarbon-based nonvolatile oil chosen from C.sub.10-C.sub.26
alcohols, preferably monoalcohols; monoesters, dieters or triesters
of a C.sub.2-C.sub.8 monocarboxylic or polycarboxylic acid and of a
C.sub.2-C.sub.8 alcohol, which are optionally hydroxylated; and
polyesters of a C.sub.2-C.sub.8 polyol and of one or more
C.sub.2-C.sub.8 carboxylic acids.
Inventors: |
CAVAZUTTI; Roberto; (Paris,
FR) ; GEFFROY-HYLAND; Nathalie; (Verrieres ie
Buisson, FR) ; NGUYEN-HENIN; Emille; (Fresnes,
FR) |
|
Applicant: |
Name |
City |
State |
Country |
Type |
L'OREAL |
Paris |
|
FR |
|
|
Assignee: |
LOREAL
Paris
FR
|
Family ID: |
45874212 |
Appl. No.: |
16/744760 |
Filed: |
January 16, 2020 |
Related U.S. Patent Documents
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Application
Number |
Filing Date |
Patent Number |
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13824548 |
Jul 10, 2013 |
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PCT/IB11/54087 |
Sep 19, 2011 |
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16744760 |
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61425263 |
Dec 21, 2010 |
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61425273 |
Dec 21, 2010 |
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61425272 |
Dec 21, 2010 |
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61385695 |
Sep 23, 2010 |
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61385713 |
Sep 23, 2010 |
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Current U.S.
Class: |
1/1 |
Current CPC
Class: |
A61K 8/891 20130101;
A61K 8/70 20130101; A61K 8/731 20130101; A61Q 19/00 20130101; A61K
8/375 20130101; A61K 8/92 20130101; A61K 8/342 20130101; A61Q 1/04
20130101 |
International
Class: |
A61K 8/92 20060101
A61K008/92; A61Q 19/00 20060101 A61Q019/00; A61K 8/73 20060101
A61K008/73; A61K 8/891 20060101 A61K008/891; A61Q 1/04 20060101
A61Q001/04; A61K 8/70 20060101 A61K008/70; A61K 8/34 20060101
A61K008/34; A61K 8/37 20060101 A61K008/37 |
Foreign Application Data
Date |
Code |
Application Number |
Sep 20, 2010 |
FR |
1057526 |
Sep 20, 2010 |
FR |
1057528 |
Dec 16, 2010 |
FR |
1060600 |
Dec 16, 2010 |
FR |
1060650 |
Dec 16, 2010 |
FR |
1060652 |
Claims
1. A cosmetic composition for making up and/or caring for the lips
comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium for lips: at
least 15% by weight of water, relative to the total weight of the
composition; 1% to 60% by weight, relative to the total weight of
the composition, of ethylcellulose; 5% to 75% by weight, relative
to the total weight of the composition, of at least one first
nonvolatile oil chosen from phenyl silicone oils; 5% to 75% by
weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of at
least one second nonvolatile oil that is octyldodecanol; and at
least one surfactant selected from the group consisting of alkyl
and polyalkyl esters of poly(ethylene oxide), oxyalkylenated
alcohols, alkyl and polyalkyl ethers of poly(ethylene oxide),
optionally polyoxyethylenated alkyl and polyalkyl esters of
sorbitan, optionally polyoxyethylenated alkyl and polyalkyl ethers
of sorbitan, alkyl and polyalkyl glycosides, alkyl and polyalkyl
polyglucosides, alkyl and polyalkyl esters of sucrose, optionally
polyoxyethylenated alkyl and polyalkyl esters of glycerol,
optionally polyoxyethylenated alkyl and polyalkyl ethers of
glycerol, alkyl ether sulfates, carboxylates, alkali metal salts of
amino acids selected from the group consisting of citrates and
galacturonates, sulfonates, isethionates, taurates,
sulfosuccinates, alkylsulfoacetates, phosphates, alkyl phosphates,
metal salts of C.sub.10-C.sub.30 fatty acids, and mixtures
thereof.
2. The composition as claimed in claim 1, wherein the
ethylcellulose is present in a content of from 5% to 30% by weight,
relative to the total weight of the composition.
3. The composition as claimed in claim 1, wherein the
ethylcellulose is present in a content of from 5% to 20% by weight,
relative to the total weight of the composition.
4. The composition as claimed in claim 1, wherein the at least one
first nonvolatile oil is trimethylsiloxy phenyl dimethicone.
5. The composition as claimed in claim 1, said composition
comprising the at least one first nonvolatile oil in a content
ranging from 10% to 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of
the composition.
6. The composition as claimed in claim 1, said composition
comprising the at least one first nonvolatile oil in a content
ranging from 15% to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of
the composition.
7. The composition as claimed in claim 1, wherein said at least one
second nonvolatile oil is present in a total content ranging from
10% to 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of the
composition.
8. The composition as claimed in claim 1, wherein said at least one
second nonvolatile oil is present in a total content ranging from
20% to 45% by weight, relative to the total weight of the
composition.
9. The composition as claimed in claim 1, wherein said second
nonvolatile oil and ethylcellulose are present in the composition
in a second nonvolatile oil/ethylcellulose weight ratio of from 1
to 20.
10. The composition as claimed in claim 1, wherein said second
nonvolatile oil and the ethylcellulose are present in the
composition in a second nonvolatile oil/ethylcellulose weight ratio
of from 2 to 15.
11. The composition as claimed in claim 1, wherein said second
nonvolatile oil and ethylcellulose are present in the composition
in a second nonvolatile oil/ethylcellulose weight ratio of from 3
to 10.
12. The composition as claimed in claim 1, said composition
comprising from 15% to 80% by weight of water, relative to the
total weight of the composition.
13. The composition as claimed in claim 1, said composition
comprising from 15% to 50% by weight of water, relative to the
total weight of the composition.
14. The composition as claimed in claim 1, said composition
comprising: from 4% to 30% by weight of ethylcellulose, from 15% to
50% by weight of water, from 45% to 75% by weight of nonvolatile
oils, all weights being relative to the total weight of the
composition.
15. The composition as claimed in claim 1, wherein the at least one
surfactant is selected from the group consisting of alkyl esters of
sorbitan, optionally polyoxyethylenated alkyl esters of sorbitan,
polyalkyl esters of sorbitan, optionally polyoxyethylenated
polyalkyl esters of sorbitan, and mixtures thereof.
16. The composition as claimed in claim 1, wherein the composition
is free of silicone surfactant.
17. The composition as claimed in claim 1, said composition being
in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion.
18. The composition as claimed in claim 1, wherein the at least one
surfactant is present in an amount ranging from 0.5 to 20% by
weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
19. The composition as claimed in claim 1, said composition further
comprising at least one dyestuff.
20. The composition as claimed in claim 1, said composition further
comprising at least one water-soluble dye.
21. The composition as claimed in claim 1, said composition further
comprising at least one compound chosen from fillers, waxes, pasty
fatty substances, semicrystalline polymers, lipophilic gelling
agents, silicone gums, organopolysiloxane elastomers, silicone
resins, and mixtures thereof.
22. The composition as claimed in claim 1, further comprising at
least one additional oil selected from the group consisting of
polydecene, hydrogenated polydecene, hydrogenated polyisobutylene,
polybutene/polyisobutene copolymer, decene/butene copolymer,
polybutylene, and mixtures thereof.
23. The composition as claimed in claim 1, further comprising at
least one monoalcohol containing from 1 to 5 carbon atoms.
24. The composition as claimed in claim 1, wherein the composition
comprises at least one nonvolatile oil other than octyldodecanol
chosen from lauryl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol,
2-hexyldecyl alcohol, isocetyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.
25. The composition as claimed in claim 1, said composition being
in liquid form.
26. The composition as claimed in claim 1, said composition being a
lipstick.
Description
[0001] This application claims the benefit of priority from U.S.
application Ser. No. 13/824,548, filed Jul. 10, 2013, which is a
371 of PCT/IB2011/054087, filed Sep. 19, 2011, which claims benefit
of U.S. Application No. 61/385,713 filed Sep. 23, 2010, U.S.
Application No. 61/385,695, filed Sep. 23, 2010, U.S. Application
No. 61/425,263, filed Dec. 21, 2010, U.S. Application No.
61/425,272, filed Dec. 21, 2010, U.S. Application No. 61/425,273,
filed Dec. 21, 2010, and of prior French Application No. 1060600,
filed Dec. 16, 2010, French Application No. 1060650, filed Dec. 16,
2010, French Application No. 1060652, Filed Dec. 16, 2010, French
Application No. 1057526, filed Sep. 20, 2010 and French Application
No. 1057528, filed Sep. 20, 2010 the entire contents of which is
hereby incorporated by reference.
[0002] The present invention is directed toward proposing cosmetic
compositions comprising alkylcellulose, which are intended in
particular for making up and/or caring for the lips or the skin,
especially the lips, which are capable of producing a deposit,
especially a makeup deposit, which shows good cosmetic properties,
especially in terms of gloss, comfort and absence of tackiness.
[0003] The compositions targeted according to the invention are
more specifically aqueous compositions, which are particularly
appreciated for formulating water-soluble dyestuffs.
[0004] In general, cosmetic compositions need to afford an esthetic
effect when applied to the skin and/or the lips, and to maintain
this esthetic effect over time.
[0005] In fact, the production of an esthetic effect, after
applying a cosmetic composition, results from an assembly of
properties intrinsic to the composition which are expressed in
terms of makeup performance, cosmetic properties such as comfort on
application, makeup precision, makeup uniformity, gloss and/or wear
property of the gloss over time.
[0006] In particular, producing a homogeneous composition that is
stable over time, and improving the gloss and/or the wear property
over time of cosmetic products, once applied to the skin or the
lips, is an ongoing concern of formulators working in the field of
lipsticks, in stick form or in gloss form for the lips, and other
skincare and/or lipcare products.
[0007] Ethylcellulose is already known for its capacity, when it is
dissolved in sufficient amount in cosmetic and/or therapeutic
compositions, to improve the adherence and the wear property of the
resulting films. It has also been demonstrated that ethylcellulose
dissolved in sufficient amount in compositions makes it possible,
by virtue of its properties as a film-forming agent, to facilitate
the formation of a film on the skin and/or the lips, and to improve
the water resistance of this film.
[0008] Unfortunately, ethylcellulose, and alkylcelluloses in
general (with an alkyl group comprising from 1 to 6 carbon atoms),
is of limited solubility in the majority of the solvents commonly
used in cosmetic and/or dermatological formulations. In general,
monoalcohols containing from 2 to 8 carbon atoms, such as ethanol,
butanol, methanol or isopropanol, are preferred for dissolving
sufficient amounts of ethylcellulose in cosmetic or pharmaceutical
compositions. Evaporation of the C.sub.2-C.sub.8 monoalcohols
leads, after application of the corresponding cosmetic composition
to the skin or the lips, firstly to concentration of the deposit
and secondly to the formation of a coat on the surface of the skin
or the lips that has a very good wear property. For example,
document WO 96/36310 proposes cosmetic compositions especially
comprising ethylcellulose dissolved in ethyl alcohol (SDA 38B-190
or SDA 40B-190 solvents).
[0009] However, these volatile monoalcohols have the drawback of
being potentially irritant to the skin and/or the lips, and
consequently may prove to be detrimental in the case of repeated
use on the skin.
[0010] In order to overcome this problem, it has been proposed in
document U.S. Pat. No. 5,908,631 to use, as an alternative to
C.sub.2-C.sub.8 monoalcohols, a certain number of solvents for
ethylcellulose, such as lanolin oil, certain triglycerides, certain
propylene glycol or neopentyl glycol esters, isostearyl lactate,
and mixtures thereof.
[0011] Unfortunately, replacing these C.sub.2-C.sub.8 monoalcohols,
which are volatile compounds, with these nonvolatile solvents may
on the other hand prove to be detrimental in terms of comfort and
of tackiness of the resulting deposit.
[0012] Consequently, there is still a need for cosmetic
compositions, which are free of C.sub.2-C.sub.8 monoalcohol,
comprising a sufficient amount of alkylcellulose, and which are
capable of forming on the skin and/or the lips a deposit that has
satisfactory gloss and comfort properties and that is not
tacky.
[0013] In the context of caring for the lips, it is more
particularly desirable to introduce into lipstick compositions
active agents such as moisturizers, for example in order to
contribute toward moisturizing the lips and for the wear comfort of
the deposit. However, lipstick formulations (whether they are solid
or liquid) are generally anhydrous, and the introduction of active
agents such as glycerol, for example, is the cause of stability
problems of the composition (exudation). The introduction of water
into standard architectures causes problems of instability over
time of the compositions (i.e. they show phase separation or
exudation phenomena).
[0014] There is more particularly a need for compositions for
making up and/or caring for the skin and/or the lips, comprising a
sufficient amount of alkylcellulose, which are homogeneous and
stable over time (which do not form grains and do not undergo phase
separation), which are easy to apply, which allow the production of
a thin, light, uniform, glossy and comfortable deposit that, in
particular, is sparingly tacky or non-tacky, and which, in certain
embodiments, have a satisfactory level of wear property.
[0015] The object of the present invention is, precisely, to
satisfy these needs.
[0016] As emerges from the examples presented below, the inventors
have discovered that the abovementioned expectations can be
satisfied by formulating the alkylcellulose in the form of a
dispersion in water with a mixture of specific oils other than
C.sub.2-C.sub.8 monoalcohols.
[0017] Thus, according to a first of its aspects, a subject of the
present invention is a cosmetic composition comprising, in a
physiologically acceptable medium:
[0018] at least water, in particular at least 5% by weight of
water;
[0019] at least alkylcellulose, the alkyl residue of which
comprises between 1 and 6 carbon atoms and preferably between 1 and
3 carbon atoms, preferably ethylcellulose;
[0020] at least a first nonvolatile oil chosen from silicone oils
and/or fluoro oils; and
[0021] at least a second hydrocarbon-based nonvolatile oil, chosen
from: [0022] C.sub.10-C.sub.26 alcohols, preferably monoalcohols;
[0023] optionally hydroxylated monoesters, diesters or triesters of
a C.sub.2-C.sub.8 monocarboxylic or polycarboxylic acid and of a
C.sub.2-C.sub.8 alcohol; [0024] esters of a C.sub.2-C.sub.8 polyol
and of one or more C.sub.2-C.sub.8 carboxylic acids. In a
particular embodiment, a subject of the present invention is a
cosmetic composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable
medium:
[0025] at least water, in particular at least 5% by weight of
water;
[0026] at least alkylcellulose, the alkyl residue of which
comprises between 1 and 6 carbon atoms and preferably between 1 and
3 carbon atoms, preferably ethylcellulose;
[0027] at least a first nonvolatile oil chosen from silicone oils
and/or fluoro oils; and
[0028] at least a second hydrocarbon-based nonvolatile oil, chosen
from: [0029] C.sub.10-C.sub.26 alcohols, preferably monoalcohols;
[0030] optionally hydroxylated monoesters, diesters or triesters of
a C.sub.2-C.sub.8 monocarboxylic or polycarboxylic acid and of a
C.sub.2-C.sub.8 alcohol; [0031] esters of a C.sub.2-C.sub.8 polyol
and of one or more C.sub.2-C.sub.8 carboxylic acids, and
[0032] at least a sodium lauryl sulfate; and optionally and
additional nonionic or anionic surfactant.
[0033] According to one particular embodiment of the invention, a
cosmetic composition according to the invention also comprises at
least one silicone gum.
[0034] According to one particular embodiment, a cosmetic
composition according to the invention also comprises at least one
organopolysiloxane elastomer.
[0035] According to yet another particular embodiment, a
composition according to the invention also comprises at least one
silicone resin.
[0036] According to yet another particular embodiment, a
composition according to the invention also comprises at least one
active agent chosen from moisturizers, cicatrizing agents and
antiaging agents.
[0037] Advantageously, a cosmetic composition according to the
invention is homogeneous, stable (no exudation or phase separation)
over time (especially after 1 month at room temperature), easy to
apply to the skin and/or the lips, and produces a uniform deposit
that shows good properties in terms of gloss, comfort (the deposit
is thin and light), and non-tacky or sparingly tacky, and, in
certain embodiments, contributes toward caring for the lips.
[0038] In particular, in the context of a composition for caring
for the lips, since the composition according to the invention
comprises water, this water lends itself particularly to the
introduction of hydrophilic active agents into the composition, in
particular without any problem of stability of the composition
and/or of the active agent.
[0039] Moreover, since the deposit on the lips of a composition
according to the invention shows a good level of wear property,
this ensures the remanence of the active agent on the lips and thus
improves the care efficacy (moisturizing, cicatrizing and/or
antiaging effect) on the lips.
[0040] Advantageously, a composition according to the invention is
easy to apply, and can lead to precise application of makeup to the
contours of the lips.
[0041] A composition according to the invention also proves to be
particularly suitable for the use of water-soluble dyes.
[0042] As emerges from the examples below, the combination of the
oils under consideration according to the invention proves to be
particularly advantageous for formulating alkylcelluloses,
preferably such as ethylcellulose, in said composition.
[0043] A composition according to the invention advantageously
allows the use of an effective amount of alkylcellulose. For the
purposes of the present invention, the term "effective amount"
means an amount that is sufficient to obtain the expected effect,
as described previously.
[0044] In particular, a composition according to the invention
comprises at least 1% and particularly preferably at least 4% by
weight of alkylcellulose (preferentially ethylcellulose) solids
relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0045] Particularly preferably, a composition according to the
invention comprises from 4% to 60% by weight of alkylcellulose
(preferably ethylcellulose) solids, more preferably from 5% to 30%
by weight and more preferably still from 5% to 20% by weight,
relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0046] The term "physiologically acceptable medium" is intended to
denote a medium that is particularly suitable for the application
of a composition according to the invention to the skin and/or the
lips.
[0047] Preferably, the composition according to the invention is
liquid.
[0048] The term "liquid" means a composition that is capable of
flowing under its own weight, at room temperature (20.degree. C.)
and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg), as opposed to "solid"
compositions.
[0049] A composition according to the invention is preferably in
the form of an emulsion of oil in an aqueous phase.
[0050] Preferably, the cosmetic composition according to the
invention is a liquid lipstick, for instance a gloss.
[0051] According to one particular embodiment, a composition of the
invention comprises less than 5% by weight of silicone
surfactant(s), in particular less than 4% by weight, especially
less than 3% by weight, more particularly less than 2% by weight
and in particular less than 1% by weight, or even is totally free
of silicone surfactant.
[0052] According to another of its aspects, a subject of the
present patent application is a cosmetic process for making up
and/or caring for the lips and/or the skin, in particular the lips,
comprising at least one step that consists in applying to the lips
and/or the skin at least one composition as defined previously.
[0053] In particular, a subject of the present patent application
is a cosmetic process for making up and/or caring for the lips,
comprising at least one step that consists in applying to the lips
at least one cosmetic composition comprising, in a physiologically
acceptable medium:
[0054] at least water;
[0055] at least alkylcellulose, the alkyl residue of which
comprises between 1 and 6 carbon atoms and preferably between 1 and
3 carbon atoms, preferably ethylcellulose;
[0056] at least a first nonvolatile oil chosen from silicone oils
and/or fluoro oils; and
[0057] at least a second hydrocarbon-based nonvolatile oil, chosen
from: [0058] C.sub.10-C.sub.26 alcohols, preferably monoalcohols;
[0059] optionally hydroxylated monoesters, diesters or triesters of
a C.sub.2-C.sub.8 monocarboxylic or polycarboxylic acid and of a
C.sub.2-C.sub.8 alcohol; [0060] esters of a C.sub.2-C.sub.8 polyol
and of one or more C.sub.2-C.sub.8 carboxylic acids.
[0061] Ethylcellulose
[0062] A composition according to the invention comprises at least
alkylcellulose, the alkyl residue of which comprises between 1 and
6 carbon atoms and preferably between 1 and 3 carbon atoms,
preferably ethylcellulose.
[0063] According to one particularly preferred embodiment, the
alkylcellulose (preferentially ethylcellulose) is present in a
composition according to the invention in a content (solids)
ranging from 1% to 60% by weight and in particular greater than or
equal to 4% by weight.
[0064] Particularly preferably, the composition according to the
invention comprises from 4% to 60% by weight of alkylcellulose
solids, more preferably from 5% to 30% by weight and more
preferably still from 5% to 20% by weight, relative to the total
weight of said composition.
[0065] The alkylcellulose is a cellulose alkyl ether comprising a
chain formed from .beta.-anhydroglucose units linked together via
acetal bonds. Each anhydroglucose unit contains three replaceable
hydroxyl groups, all or some of these hydroxyl groups being able to
react according to the following reaction:
RONa+C.sub.2H.sub.5Cl.fwdarw.ROC.sub.2H.sub.5+NaCl, in which R
represents a cellulose radical.
[0066] Advantageously, the alkylcellulose is chosen from
methylcellulose, ethylcellulose and propylcellulose.
[0067] According to one particularly preferred embodiment, the
alkylcellulose is ethylcellulose.
[0068] It is a cellulose ethyl ether.
[0069] Total substitution of the three hydroxyl groups would lead
for each anhydroglucose unit to a degree of substitution of 3, in
other words to a content of alkoxy groups of 54.88%
[0070] The ethylcellulose polymers used in a cosmetic composition
according to the invention are preferentially polymers with a
degree of substitution with ethoxy groups ranging from 2.5 to 2.6
per anhydroglucose unit, in other words comprising a content of
ethoxy groups ranging from 44% to 50%.
[0071] According to a preferred mode, the alkylcellulose
(preferably ethylcellulose) is used in a composition of the
invention in the form of particles dispersed in an aqueous phase,
like a dispersion of latex or psuedolatex type. The techniques for
preparing these latex dispersions are well known to those skilled
in the art.
[0072] The product sold by the company FMC Biopolymer under the
name Aquacoat ECD-30, which consists of a dispersion of
ethylcellulose in a proportion of about 26.2% by weight in water
and stabilized with sodium lauryl sulfate and cetyl alcohol, is
most particularly suitable for use as an aqueous dispersion of
ethylcellulose.
[0073] According to one particular embodiment, the aqueous
dispersion of ethylcellulose, in particular the product Aquacoat
ECD, may be used in a proportion of from 3% to 90% by weight, in
particular from 10% to 60% by weight, preferably from 20% to 50% by
weight of ethylcellulose dispersion relative to the total weight of
the composition.
[0074] According to one particularly preferred embodiment, the
composition of the invention thus comprises at least one surfactant
chosen from anionic and nonionic surfactants, in particular as
described more precisely hereinbelow, and especially from anionic
surfactants such as sodium lauryl sulfate.
[0075] These surfactants may be introduced more particularly, at
least partly, by the aqueous dispersion of alkylcellulose used in
the preparation of a composition of the invention.
[0076] Thus, according to another of its aspects, the present
invention also relates to a process for preparing a composition
according to the invention, characterized in that the
alkylcellulose is used therein in the form of a stable aqueous
dispersion of alkylcellulose, said dispersion especially comprising
at least one surfactant chosen from anionic and nonionic
surfactants.
[0077] As mentioned previously, the alkylcellulose, preferably in
the form of a stable aqueous dispersion, is used according to the
present invention in combination with a mixture of oils as
described more particularly hereinbelow.
[0078] Physiologically Acceptable Medium
[0079] Besides the compounds indicated previously, a composition
according to the invention comprises a physiologically acceptable
medium.
[0080] The term "physiologically acceptable medium" is intended to
denote a medium that is particularly suitable for applying a
composition of the invention to the skin and/or the lips, for
instance water, or the oils or organic solvents commonly used in
cosmetic compositions.
[0081] The physiologically acceptable medium (acceptable tolerance,
toxicology and feel) is generally adapted to the nature of the
support onto which the composition is to be applied, and also to
the form in which the composition is to be conditioned.
[0082] Fatty Phase
[0083] The composition according to the invention comprises at
least one fatty phase and especially a liquid fatty phase,
comprising at least a first nonvolatile silicone and/or fluoro oil,
and at least a second particular nonvolatile hydrocarbon-based
oil.
[0084] The term "oil" means a water-immiscible nonaqueous compound
that is liquid at room temperature (25.degree. C.) and at
atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg).
[0085] First Nonvolatile Silicone and/or Fluoro Oil
[0086] According to one of its aspects, a composition according to
the invention comprises at least a first nonvolatile oil chosen
from silicone oils and/or fluoro oils.
[0087] The term "nonvolatile" refers to an oil whose vapor pressure
at room temperature and atmospheric pressure is nonzero and less
than 0.02 mmHg (2.66 Pa) and better still less than 10.sup.-3 mmHg
(0.13 Pa).
[0088] Preferably, the nonvolatile oil(s) chosen from silicone oils
and/or fluoro oils is/are present in a total content ranging from
5% to 75% by weight, preferably from 10% to 40% by weight or
alternatively from 15% to 30% by weight relative to the total
weight of said composition.
[0089] Nonvolatile Silicone Oil
[0090] According to a first preferred embodiment, the nonvolatile
oil is a silicone oil.
[0091] The term "silicone oil" means an oil comprising at least one
silicon atom.
[0092] The nonvolatile silicone oil that may be used in the
invention may be chosen especially from silicone oils especially
with a viscosity at 25.degree. C. of greater than or equal to 9
centistokes (cSt) (9.times.10.sup.-6 m.sup.2/s) and less than 800
000 cSt, preferably between 50 and 600 000 cSt and preferably
between 100 and 500 000 cSt. The viscosity of this silicone may be
measured according to standard ASTM D-445.
[0093] According to a first embodiment, the nonvolatile silicone
oil is a nonphenyl silicone oil.
[0094] The nonvolatile nonphenyl silicone oil may be chosen
from:
[0095] nonvolatile polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMSs),
[0096] PDMSs comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups, which are pendent
and/or at the end of the silicone chain, these groups each
containing from 2 to 24 carbon atoms,
[0097] PDMSs comprising aliphatic and/or aromatic groups, or
functional groups such as hydroxyl, thiol and/or amine groups,
[0098] polyalkylmethylsiloxanes optionally substituted with a
fluoro group, such as
polymethyltrifluoropropyldimethylsiloxanes,
[0099] polyalkylmethylsiloxanes substituted with functional groups
such as hydroxyl, thiol and/or amine groups,
[0100] polysiloxanes modified with fatty acids, fatty alcohols or
polyoxyalkylenes, and mixtures thereof.
[0101] According to one embodiment, a composition according to the
invention contains at least one nonphenyl silicone oil, in
particular such as a linear (i.e. noncyclic) oil.
[0102] Representative examples of these nonvolatile nonphenyl
linear silicone oils that may be mentioned include
polydimethylsiloxanes; alkyl dimethicones; vinyl methyl methicones;
and also silicones modified with optionally fluorinated aliphatic
groups, or with functional groups such as hydroxyl, thiol and/or
amine groups.
[0103] When the nonvolatile silicone oil is a dimethicone, it is
more particularly present in a content of greater than or equal to
5% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition.
[0104] Such a content makes it possible in particular to obtain the
desired gloss effect.
[0105] The nonphenyl silicone oil may be chosen especially from the
silicones of formula (I):
##STR00001##
[0106] in which:
[0107] R.sub.1, R.sub.2, R.sub.5 and R.sub.6 are, together or
separately, an alkyl radical containing 1 to 6 carbon atoms,
[0108] R.sub.3 and R.sub.4 are, together or separately, an alkyl
radical containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, a vinyl radical, an
amine radical or a hydroxyl radical,
[0109] X is an alkyl radical containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, a
hydroxyl radical or an amine radical,
[0110] n and p are integers chosen so as to have a fluid compound,
in particular whose viscosity at 25.degree. C. is between 9
centistokes (cSt) (9.times.10.sup.-6 m.sup.2/s) and 800 000
cSt.
[0111] As nonvolatile silicone oils that may be used according to
the invention, mention may be made of the compounds of formula (I)
for which:
[0112] the substituents R.sub.1 to R.sub.6 and X represent a methyl
group, and p and n are such that the viscosity is 500 000 cSt, such
as the product sold under the name SE30 by the company General
Electric, the product sold under the name AK 500000 by the company
Wacker, the product sold under the name Mirasil DM 500 000 by the
company Bluestar, and the product sold under the name Dow Corning
200 Fluid 500 000 cSt by the company Dow Corning,
[0113] the substituents R.sub.1 to R.sub.6 and X represent a methyl
group, and p and n are such that the viscosity is 60 000 cSt, such
as the product sold under the name Dow Corning 200 Fluid 60000 CS
by the company Dow Corning, and the product sold under the name
Wacker Belsil DM 60 000 by the company Wacker,
[0114] the substituents R.sub.1 to R.sub.6 and X represent a methyl
group, and p and n are such that the viscosity is 350 cSt, such as
the product sold under the name Dow Corning 200 Fluid 350 CS by the
company Dow Corning, or under the name Wacker-Belsil DM 350 by the
company Wacker,
[0115] the substituents R.sub.1 to R.sub.6 represent a methyl
group, the group X represents a hydroxyl group, and n and p are
such that the viscosity is 700 cSt, such as the product sold under
the name Baysilone Fluid TO.7 by the company Momentive.
[0116] According to a second embodiment, a composition according to
the invention contains at least one nonvolatile phenyl silicone oil
as first nonvolatile oil.
[0117] Representative examples of these nonvolatile phenyl silicone
oils that may be mentioned include:
[0118] the phenyl silicone oils corresponding to the following
formula:
##STR00002##
[0119] in which the groups R represent, independently of each
other, a methyl or a phenyl, with the proviso that at least one
group R represents a phenyl. Preferably, in this formula, the
phenyl silicone oil comprises at least three phenyl groups, for
example at least four, at least five or at least six.
[0120] the phenyl silicone oils corresponding to the following
formula:
##STR00003##
[0121] in which the groups R represent, independently of each
other, a methyl or a phenyl, with the proviso that at least one
group R represents a phenyl.
[0122] Preferably, in this formula, said organopolysiloxane
comprises at least three phenyl groups, for example at least four
or at least five. Mixtures of the phenyl organopolysiloxanes
described previously may be used. Examples that may be mentioned
include mixtures of triphenyl, tetraphenyl or pentaphenyl
organopolysiloxanes.
[0123] the phenyl silicone oils corresponding to the following
formula:
##STR00004##
[0124] in which Me represents methyl, Ph represents phenyl. Such a
phenyl silicone is especially manufactured by Dow Coming under the
reference PH-1555 HRI or Dow Corning 555 Cosmetic Fluid (chemical
name: 1,3,5-trimethyl-1,1,3,5,5-pentaphenyltrisiloxane; INCI name:
trimethyl pentaphenyl trisiloxane). The reference Dow Corning 554
Cosmetic Fluid may also be used.
[0125] the phenyl silicone oils corresponding to the following
formula:
##STR00005##
[0126] in which Me represents methyl, y is between 1 and 1000 and X
represents --CH.sub.2--CH(CH.sub.3)(Ph).
[0127] the phenyl silicone oils corresponding to formula (V)
below:
##STR00006##
[0128] in which Me is methyl and Ph is phenyl, OR' represents a
group --OSiMe.sub.3 and y is 0 or ranges between 1 and 1000, and z
ranges between 1 and 1000, such that compound (V) is a nonvolatile
oil.
[0129] According to a first embodiment, y ranges between 1 and
1000. Use may be made, for example, of trimethyl siloxyphenyl
dimethicone, sold especially under the reference Belsil PDM 1000 by
the company Wacker.
[0130] According to a second embodiment, y is equal to 0. Use may
be made, for example, of phenyl trimethylsiloxy trisiloxane, sold
especially under the reference Dow Corning 556 Cosmetic Grade
Fluid.
[0131] the phenyl silicone oils corresponding to formula (VI)
below, and mixtures thereof:
##STR00007##
[0132] in which:
[0133] R.sub.1 to R.sub.10, independently of each other, are
saturated or unsaturated, linear, cyclic or branched
C.sub.1-C.sub.30 hydrocarbon-based radicals,
[0134] m, n, p and q are, independently of each other, integers
between 0 and 900, with the proviso that the sum m+n+q is other
than 0.
[0135] Preferably, the sum m+n+q is between 1 and 100. Preferably,
the sum m+n+p+q is between 1 and 900 and better still between 1 and
800. Preferably, q is equal to 0.
[0136] the phenyl silicone oils corresponding to formula (VII)
below, and mixtures thereof:
##STR00008##
[0137] in which:
[0138] R.sub.1 to R.sub.6, independently of each other, are
saturated or unsaturated, linear, cyclic or branched
C.sub.1-C.sub.30 hydrocarbon-based radicals,
[0139] m, n and p are, independently of each other, integers
between 0 and 100, with the proviso that the sum n+m is between 1
and 100.
[0140] Preferably, R.sub.1 to R.sub.6, independently of each other,
represent a saturated, linear or branched C.sub.1-C.sub.30 and
especially C.sub.1-C.sub.12 hydrocarbon-based radical and in
particular a methyl, ethyl, propyl or butyl radical.
[0141] R.sub.1 to R.sub.6 may especially be identical, and in
addition may be a methyl radical. Preferably, m=1 or 2 or 3, and/or
n=0 and/or p=0 or 1 may apply, in formula (VII).
[0142] the phenyl silicone oils corresponding to formula (VIII),
and mixtures thereof:
##STR00009##
[0143] in which:
[0144] R is a C.sub.1-C.sub.30 alkyl radical, an aryl radical or an
aralkyl radical,
[0145] n is an integer ranging from 0 to 100, and
[0146] m is an integer ranging from 0 to 100, with the proviso that
the sum n+m ranges from 1 to 100.
[0147] In particular, the radicals R of formula (VIII) and R.sub.1
to R.sub.10 defined previously may each represent a linear or
branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl radical, especially of
C.sub.2-C.sub.20, in particular C.sub.3-C.sub.16 and more
particularly C.sub.4-C.sub.10, or a monocyclic or polycyclic
C.sub.6-C.sub.14 and especially C.sub.10-C.sub.13 aryl radical, or
an aralkyl radical whose aryl and alkyl residues are as defined
previously.
[0148] Preferably, R of formula (VIII) and R.sub.1 to R.sub.10 may
each represent a methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, decyl, dodecyl
or octadecyl radical, or alternatively a phenyl, tolyl, benzyl or
phenethyl radical.
[0149] According to one embodiment, a phenyl silicone oil of
formula (VIII) with a viscosity at 25.degree. C. of between 5 and
1500 mm.sup.2/s (i.e. 5 to 1500 cSt), and preferably with a
viscosity of between 5 and 1000 mm.sup.2/s (i.e. 5 to 1000 cSt) may
be used.
[0150] As phenyl silicone oils of formula (VIII), it is especially
possible to use phenyl trimethicones such as DC556 from Dow Corning
(22.5 cSt), the oil Silbione 70663V30 from Rhone-Poulenc (28 cSt)
or diphenyl dimethicones such as Belsil oils, especially Belsil
PDM1000 (1000 cSt), Belsil PDM 200 (200 cSt) and Belsil PDM 20 (20
cSt) from Wacker. The values in parentheses represent the
viscosities at 25.degree. C.
[0151] the phenyl silicone oils corresponding to the following
formula, and mixtures thereof:
##STR00010##
[0152] in which:
[0153] R.sub.1, R.sub.2, R.sub.5 and R.sub.6 are, together or
separately, an alkyl radical containing 1 to 6 carbon atoms,
[0154] R.sub.3 and R.sub.4 are, together or separately, an alkyl
radical containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms or an aryl radical,
[0155] X is an alkyl radical containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, a
hydroxyl radical or a vinyl radical,
[0156] n and p being chosen so as to give the oil a weight-average
molecular mass of less than 200 000 g/mol, preferably less than 150
000 g/mol and more preferably less than 100 000 g/mol.
[0157] The phenyl silicones are more particularly chosen from
phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyl
trimethylsiloxydiphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones,
diphenylmethyldiphenyltrisiloxanes and 2-phenylethyl
trimethylsiloxysilicates, and mixtures thereof.
[0158] More particularly, the phenyl silicones are chosen from
phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyl
trimethylsiloxydiphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones,
diphenylmethyldiphenyltrisiloxanes and 2-phenylethyl
trimethylsiloxysilicates, and mixtures thereof.
[0159] Preferably, the weight-average molecular weight of the
nonvolatile phenyl silicone oil according to the invention ranges
from 500 to 10 000 g/mol.
[0160] As preferred nonvolatile silicone oils, examples that may be
mentioned include silicone oils such as:
[0161] phenyl silicones (also known as phenyl silicone oil) such as
trimethylsiloxyphenyl dimethicone (for instance Belsil PDM 1000
from the company Wacker (MW=9000 g/mol) (cf formula (V) above),
phenyl trimethicones (such as the phenyl trimethicone sold under
the trade name DC556 by Dow Corning), phenyl dimethicones, phenyl
trimethylsiloxy diphenyl siloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenyl
methyldiphenyl trisiloxanes, 2-phenylethyl
trimethylsiloxysilicates, trimethylpentaphenyl trisiloxane (such as
the product sold under the name Dow Corning PH-1555 HRI Cosmetic
fluid by Dow Corning) (cf. formula (III) above),
[0162] nonvolatile polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMSs),
polydimethylsiloxanes comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups, which are
pendent and/or at the end of the silicone chain, these groups each
containing from 2 to 24 carbon atoms,
[0163] and mixtures thereof.
[0164] Preferably, the first nonvolatile oil is a phenyl silicone
oil.
[0165] Preferably, a phenyl silicone oil is used. According to one
preferred embodiment, the phenyl silicone oil is chosen from
trimethylsiloxyphenyl dimethicones.
[0166] According to one preferred embodiment, the nonvolatile
silicone oil(s) are present in a total content ranging from 5% to
75% by weight, in particular from 10% to 40% by weight and
preferably from 15% to 30% by weight relative to the total weight
of said composition.
[0167] Nonvolatile Fluoro Oil
[0168] According to a second embodiment, the first nonvolatile oil
is a fluoro oil.
[0169] The term "fluoro oil" means an oil containing at least one
fluorine atom.
[0170] The fluoro oils that may be used in the invention may be
chosen from fluorosilicone oils, fluoro polyethers and
fluorosilicones as described in document EP-A-847 752, and
perfluoro compounds.
[0171] According to the invention, the term "perfluoro compounds"
means compounds in which all the hydrogen atoms have been replaced
with fluorine atoms.
[0172] According to one particularly preferred embodiment, the
fluoro oil according to the invention is chosen from perfluoro
oils.
[0173] As examples of perfluoro oils that may be used in the
invention, mention may be made of perfluorodecalins and
perfluoroperhydrophenanthrenes.
[0174] According to one particularly preferred embodiment, the
fluoro oil is chosen from perfluoroperhydrophenanthrenes, and
especially the Fiflow.RTM. products sold by the company Creations
Couleurs. In particular, use may be made of the fluoro oil whose
INCI name is perfluoroperhydrophenanthrene, sold under the
reference Fiflow 220 by the company F2 Chemicals.
[0175] According to one particular embodiment, a composition
according to the invention comprises one or more nonvolatile
silicone oils (preferably phenyl silicone oils) and/or nonvolatile
fluoro oils, in a proportion of at least 5% by weight relative to
the total weight of the composition, especially from 5% to 75% by
weight and particularly preferably from 10% to 45% by weight.
[0176] According to one particular embodiment, said first
nonvolatile oil is chosen from phenyl silicone oils and fluoro
oils, in particular trimethylsiloxyphenyl dimethicones and
perfluoroperhydrophenanthrenes.
[0177] Specific Second Hydrocarbon-Based Nonvolatile Oil
[0178] The composition according to the invention comprises,
besides the nonvolatile oil chosen from silicone oils and/or fluoro
oils, one or more nonvolatile hydrocarbon-based oils, referred to
according to the invention as "second oil", chosen from:
[0179] C.sub.10-C.sub.26 alcohols, preferably monoalcohols, in
particular branched C.sub.16-C.sub.26 monoalcohols;
[0180] optionally hydroxylated monoesters, diesters or triesters of
a C.sub.2-C.sub.8 monocarboxylic or polycarboxylic acid and of a
C.sub.2-C.sub.8 alcohol;
[0181] esters of a C.sub.2-C.sub.8 polyol and of one or more
C.sub.2-C.sub.8 carboxylic acids.
[0182] Preferably, said "second oil" is chosen from:
[0183] C.sub.10-C.sub.26, monoalcohols, preferably branched
C.sub.16-C.sub.26 monoalcohols;
[0184] optionally hydroxylated monoesters of a C.sub.2-C.sub.8
carboxylic acid and of a C.sub.2-C.sub.8 alcohol;
[0185] optionally hydroxylated diesters of a C.sub.2-C.sub.8
dicarboxylic acid and of a C.sub.2-C.sub.8 alcohol;
[0186] optionally hydroxylated triesters of a C.sub.2-C.sub.8
tricarboxylic acid and of a C.sub.2-C.sub.8 alcohol;
[0187] esters of a C.sub.2-C.sub.8 polyol and of one or more
C.sub.2-C.sub.8 carboxylic acids.
[0188] The term "hydrocarbon-based oil" means an oil formed
essentially from, or even constituted by, carbon and hydrogen
atoms, and possibly oxygen atoms, and free of heteroatoms such as
N, Si, F and P. The hydrocarbon-based oil is thus different than a
silicone oil or a fluoro oil.
[0189] In the present case, said second oils comprise at least one
oxygen atom.
[0190] In particular, said second nonvolatile hydrocarbon-based oil
comprises at least one alcohol function (it is then an "alcohol
oil") and/or at least one ester function (it is then an "ester
oil").
[0191] The ester oils that may be used in the compositions
according to the invention may especially be hydroxylated.
[0192] According to one particular embodiment, a composition
according to the invention comprises one or more second nonvolatile
hydrocarbon-based oil(s) in a content ranging from 5% to 75%, in
particular from 10% to 50% by weight and preferably from 20% to 45%
by weight relative to its total weight.
[0193] According to one particularly preferred embodiment, the
nonvolatile hydrocarbon-based oil and the alkylcellulose (in
particular ethylcellulose) are used in the composition according to
the invention in a "nonvolatile hydrocarbon-based second
oil(s)/alkylcellulose" weight ratio of between 1 and 20 and
preferably between 2 and 15. Particularly preferably, the
"nonvolatile hydrocarbon-based second oil(s)/alkylcellulose" weight
ratio is between 3 and 10.
[0194] More particularly, the nonvolatile hydrocarbon-based oil
used in a composition according to the invention may especially
have plasticizing properties, i.e. it can impart suppleness and
comfort to the deposit formed with the composition according to the
invention.
[0195] According to one particularly preferred embodiment, said
second oil is a C.sub.10-C.sub.26 alcohol, preferably a
monoalcohol.
[0196] Preferably, the C.sub.10-C.sub.26 alcohols are saturated or
unsaturated, and branched or unbranched, and comprise from 10 to 26
carbon atoms. Preferably, the C.sub.10-C.sub.26 alcohols are fatty
alcohols.
[0197] As examples of fatty alcohols that may be used according to
the invention, mention may be made of linear or branched fatty
alcohols, of synthetic origin or alternatively of natural origin,
for instance alcohols derived from plant material (coconut, palm
kernel, palm, etc.) or animal material (tallow, etc.). Needless to
say, other long-chain alcohols may also be used, for instance ether
alcohols or Guerbet alcohols. Finally, use may also be made of
certain more or less long fractions of alcohols of natural origin,
for instance coconut (C.sub.12 to C.sub.16) or tallow (C.sub.16 to
C.sub.18) or compounds of diol or cholesterol type.
[0198] Use is preferably made of a fatty alcohol, preferably a
monoalcohol, comprising from 10 to 24 carbon atoms and more
preferentially from 12 to 22 carbon atoms.
[0199] As particular examples of fatty alcohols that may be used in
the context of the present invention, mention may be made
especially of lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol,
stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, palmityl alcohol, oleyl
alcohol, cetearyl alcohol (mixture of cetyl alcohol and stearyl
alcohol), behenyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol,
2-hexyldecyl alcohol, isocetyl alcohol and octyldodecanol, and
mixtures thereof.
[0200] Preferably, said second oil is octyldodecanol.
[0201] According to a second embodiment, said second oil is an
ester oil chosen from:
[0202] optionally hydroxylated monoesters of a C.sub.2-C.sub.8
carboxylic acid and of a C.sub.2-C.sub.8 alcohol,
[0203] optionally hydroxylated diesters of a C.sub.2-C.sub.8
dicarboxylic acid and of a C.sub.2-C.sub.8 alcohol; such as
diisopropyl adipate, 2-diethylhexyl adipate, dibutyl adipate or
diisostearyl adipate,
[0204] optionally hydroxylated triesters of a C.sub.2-C.sub.8
tricarboxylic acid and of a C.sub.2-C.sub.8 alcohol, such as citric
acid esters, such as trioctyl citrate, triethyl citrate, acetyl
tributyl citrate, tributyl citrate or acetyl tributyl citrate,
[0205] esters of a C.sub.2-C.sub.8 polyol and of one or more
C.sub.2-C.sub.8 carboxylic acids, such as glycol diesters of
monoacids, such as neopentyl glycol diheptanoate, or glycol
triesters of monoacids, such as triacetin.
[0206] Advantageously, the composition contains less than 10% by
weight of monoalcohols containing from 1 to 5 carbon atoms, and
preferably less than 5%.
[0207] According to one particular embodiment, the composition may
be free of monoalcohol containing from 1 to 5 carbon atoms.
[0208] According to one particularly preferred embodiment, the
composition comprises a total content of nonvolatile oils (i.e. all
the nonvolatile oils of the composition, irrespective of their
nature) of between 40% and 80% by weight and preferably between 45%
and 75% by weight relative to the total weight of the
composition.
[0209] According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the
nonvolatile oils (i.e. all the nonvolatile oils of the composition,
irrespective of their nature) and the alkylcellulose are used in
the composition according to the invention in a nonvolatile
oil(s)/alkylcellulose weight ratio of between 1 and 20 and
preferably between 4 and 15.
[0210] According to one particular embodiment, a composition
according to the invention comprises:
[0211] between 4% and 30% by weight of alkylcellulose, preferably
ethylcellulose,
[0212] between 15% and 50% by weight of water, and
[0213] between 45% and 75% by weight of nonvolatile oils.
[0214] Additional Oils
[0215] The composition according to the invention may comprise,
besides the nonvolatile "first oil" chosen from silicone oils
and/or fluoro oils, and also the nonvolatile hydrocarbon-based
"second oil", at least one additional oil different than these
oils.
[0216] In particular, the additional oil may be chosen from
nonvolatile apolar hydrocarbon-based oils and/or volatile oils, in
particular volatile hydrocarbon-based oils, volatile silicone oils
and/or volatile fluoro oils.
[0217] According to a first embodiment, the additional oil is a
nonvolatile apolar hydrocarbon-based oil.
[0218] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "apolar
oil" means an oil whose solubility parameter at 25.degree. C., Sa,
is equal to 0 (J/cm.sup.3).sup.1/2.
[0219] The definition and calculation of the solubility parameters
in the Hansen three-dimensional solubility space are described in
the article by C. M. Hansen: "The three dimensional solubility
parameters", J. Paint Technol. 39, 105 (1967).
[0220] According to this Hansen space:
[0221] .delta..sub.D characterizes the London dispersion forces
derived from the formation of dipoles induced during molecular
impacts;
[0222] .delta..sub.p characterizes the Debye interaction forces
between permanent dipoles and also the Keesom interaction forces
between induced dipoles and permanent dipoles;
[0223] .delta..sub.h characterizes the specific interaction forces
(such as hydrogen bonding, acid/base, donor/acceptor, etc.);
and
[0224] .delta..sub.a is determined by the equation:
.delta..sub.a=(.delta..sub.p.sup.2+.delta..sub.h.sup.2).sup.1/2.
[0225] The parameters .delta..sub.p, .delta..sub.h, .delta..sub.D
and .delta..sub.a are expressed in (J/cm.sup.3).sup.1/2.
[0226] Preferably, the nonvolatile apolar hydrocarbon-based oil is
free of oxygen atoms.
[0227] Preferably, the nonvolatile apolar hydrocarbon-based oil may
be chosen from linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or
synthetic origin, such as:
[0228] liquid paraffin or derivatives thereof,
[0229] liquid petroleum jelly,
[0230] naphthalene oil,
[0231] polybutylenes such as Indopol H-100 (molar mass or MW=965
g/mol), Indopol H-300 (MW=1340 g/mol) and Indopol H-1500 (MW=2160
g/mol) sold or manufactured by the company Amoco,
[0232] hydrogenated polyisobutylenes such as Parleam.RTM. sold by
the company Nippon Oil Fats, Panalane H300 E sold or manufactured
by the company Amoco (MW=1340 g/mol), Viseal 20000 sold or
manufactured by the company Synteal (MW=6000 g/mol) and Rewopal PIB
1000 sold or manufactured by the company Witco (MW=1000 g/mol),
[0233] decene/butene copolymers, polybutene/polyisobutene
copolymers, especially Indopol L-14,
[0234] polydecenes and hydrogenated polydecenes such as: Puresyn 10
(MW=723 g/mol) and Puresyn 150 (MW=9200 g/mol) sold or manufactured
by the company Mobil Chemicals,
[0235] and mixtures thereof.
[0236] According to a second embodiment, the additional oil is a
nonvolatile polar hydrocarbon-based oil, different than said
"second oil".
[0237] In particular, said additional polar nonvolatile oil
different than said second oil may be an ester oil, in particular
containing between 18 and 70 carbon atoms.
[0238] Examples that may be mentioned include monoesters, diesters
or triesters.
[0239] The ester oils may especially be hydroxylated.
[0240] The nonvolatile ester oil may preferably be chosen from:
[0241] monoesters comprising between 18 and 40 carbon atoms in
total, in particular the monoesters of formula R.sub.1COOR.sub.2 in
which R.sub.1 represents a linear or branched fatty acid residue
comprising from 4 to 40 carbon atoms and R.sub.2 represents a
hydrocarbon-based chain, which is especially branched, containing
from 4 to 40 carbon atoms, on condition that
R.sub.1+R.sub.2.gtoreq.18, for instance Purcellin oil (cetostearyl
octanoate), isononyl isononanoate, C.sub.12 to C.sub.15 alkyl
benzoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, octyldodecyl neopentanoate,
2-octyldodecyl stearate, 2-octyldodecyl erucate, isostearyl
isostearate, 2-octyldodecyl benzoate, alcohol or polyalcohol
octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates, isopropyl myristate,
isopropyl palmitate, butyl stearate, hexyl laurate, 2-ethylhexyl
palmitate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate,
2-octyldodecyl myristate or 2-diethylhexyl succinate. Preferably,
they are esters of formula R.sub.1COOR.sub.2 in which R.sub.1
represents a linear or branched fatty acid residue containing from
4 to 40 carbon atoms and R.sub.2 represents a hydrocarbon-based
chain that is especially branched, containing from 4 to 40 carbon
atoms provided that R.sub.1+R.sub.2.gtoreq.18. Preferably, the
ester comprises between 18 and 40 carbon atoms in total. Preferred
monoesters that may be mentioned include isononyl isononanoate,
oleyl erucate and/or 2-octyldodecyl neopentanoate;
[0242] diesters, especially comprising between 18 and 60 carbon
atoms in total and in particular between 18 and 50 carbon atoms in
total. It is especially possible to use diesters of dicarboxylic
acids and of monoalcohols, preferably such as diisostearyl malate,
or glycol diesters of monocarboxylic acids, such as neopentyl
glycol diheptanoate or poly(2)glyceryl diisostearate (especially
such as the compound sold under the trade reference Dermol DGDIS by
the company Alzo);
[0243] triesters, especially comprising between 35 and 70 carbon
atoms in total, in particular such as triesters of a tricarboxylic
acid, such as triisostearyl citrate, or tridecyl trimellitate, or
glycol triesters of monocarboxylic acids such as poly(2)glyceryl
triisostearate;
[0244] tetraesters, especially with a total carbon number ranging
from 35 to 70, such as pentaerythritol or polyglycerol tetraesters
of a monocarboxylic acid, for instance pentaerythrityl
tetrapelargonate, pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate, pentaerythrityl
tetraisononanoate, glyceryl tris(2-decyl)tetradecanoate,
poly(2)glyceryl tetraisostearate or pentaerythrityl
tetrakis(2-decyl)tetradecanoate;
[0245] polyesters obtained by condensation of an unsaturated fatty
acid dimer and/or trimer and of diol, such as those described in
patent application FR 0 853 0,853,634, in particular such as
dilinoleic acid and 1,4-butanediol. Mention may especially be made
in this respect of the polymer sold by Biosynthis under the name
Viscoplast 14436H (INCI name: dilinoleic acid/butanediol
copolymer), or copolymers of polyols and of diacid dimers, and
esters thereof, such as Hailuscent ISDA;
[0246] esters and polyesters of diol dimer and of monocarboxylic or
dicarboxylic acid, such as esters of diol dimer and of fatty acid
and esters of diol dimer and of dicarboxylic acid dimer, in
particular which may be obtained from a dicarboxylic acid dimer
derived in particular from the dimerization of an unsaturated fatty
acid especially of C.sub.8 to C.sub.34, especially of C.sub.12 to
C.sub.22, in particular of C.sub.16 to C.sub.20 and more
particularly of C.sub.18, such as esters of dilinoleic diacids and
of dilinoleic diol dimers, for instance those sold by the company
Nippon Fine Chemical under the trade names Lusplan DD-DA5.RTM. and
DD-DA7.RTM.;
[0247] vinylpyrrolidone/1-hexadecene copolymers, for instance the
product sold under the name Antaron V-216 (also known as Ganex
V216) by the company ISP (MW=7300 g/mol),
[0248] hydrocarbon-based plant oils such as fatty acid
triglycerides (which are liquid at room temperature), especially of
fatty acids containing from 7 to 40 carbon atoms, such as heptanoic
or octanoic acid triglycerides or jojoba oil; mention may be made
in particular of saturated triglycerides such as caprylic/capric
triglycerides, glyceryl triheptanoate, glyceryl trioctanoate, and
C.sub.18-36 acid triglycerides such as those sold under the
reference Dub TGI 24 sold by Stearineries Dubois,
and unsaturated triglycerides such as castor oil, olive oil,
ximenia oil and pracaxi oil;
[0249] and mixtures thereof.
[0250] According to one preferred embodiment, the composition is
free of additional nonvolatile hydrocarbon-based oil different than
said second oil.
[0251] According to a third embodiment, the additional oil is a
volatile oil.
[0252] The additional volatile oil may especially be a silicone
oil, a hydrocarbon-based oil, which is preferably apolar, or a
fluoro oil.
[0253] According to one embodiment, the additional volatile oil is
a silicone oil and may be chosen especially from silicone oils with
a flash point ranging from 40.degree. C. to 102.degree. C.,
preferably with a flash point of greater than 55.degree. C. and
less than or equal to 95.degree. C., and preferentially ranging
from 65.degree. C. to 95.degree. C.
[0254] As additional volatile silicone oils that may be used in the
invention, mention may be made of linear or cyclic silicones with a
viscosity at room temperature of less than 8 centistokes (cSt)
(8.times.10.sup.-6 m.sup.2/s), and especially containing from 2 to
10 silicon atoms and in particular from 2 to 7 silicon atoms, these
silicones optionally comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups containing
from 1 to 10 carbon atoms. As volatile silicone oils that may be
used in the invention, mention may be made especially of
dimethicones with viscosities of and 6 cSt,
octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane,
dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, heptamethylhexyltrisiloxane,
heptamethyloctyltrisiloxane, hexamethyldisiloxane,
octamethyltrisiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane and
dodecamethylpentasiloxane, and mixtures thereof.
[0255] According to a second embodiment, the additional volatile
oil is a fluoro oil, such as nonafluoromethoxybutane or
perfluoromethylcyclopentane, and mixtures thereof.
[0256] According to a third embodiment, the additional volatile oil
is a hydrocarbon-based oil, which is preferably apolar.
[0257] The additional apolar volatile hydrocarbon-based oil may
have a flash point ranging from 40.degree. C. to 102.degree. C.,
preferably ranging from 40.degree. C. to 55.degree. C. and
preferentially ranging from 40.degree. C. to 50.degree. C.
[0258] The additional hydrocarbon-based volatile oil may especially
be chosen from hydrocarbon-based volatile oils containing from 8 to
16 carbon atoms, and mixtures thereof, and especially:
[0259] branched C.sub.8-C.sub.16 alkanes such as C.sub.8-C.sub.16
isoalkanes (also known as isoparaffins), isododecane, isodecane and
isohexadecane, and, for example, the oils sold under the trade name
Isopar or Permethyl,
[0260] linear alkanes, for example such as n-dodecane (C12) and
n-tetradecane (C14) sold by Sasol under the references,
respectively, Parafol 12-97 and Parafol 14-97, and also mixtures
thereof, the undecane-tridecane mixture (Cetiol UT), mixtures of
n-undecane (C11) and of n-tridecane (C13) obtained in Examples 1
and 2 of patent application WO 2008/155 059 from the company
Cognis, and mixtures thereof.
[0261] According to one particular embodiment, the additional
volatile oil(s) may be present in a content ranging from 0.1% to
30% by weight and especially from 0.5% to 20% by weight relative to
the total weight of said composition.
[0262] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition is free
of additional volatile oil.
[0263] In a preferred embodiment, the composition comprises from 4
to 30% by weight of alkylcellulose, preferably of ethylcellulose,
from 15 to 50% by weight of water, and from 45 to 75% by weight of
nonvolatile oils.
[0264] Other Fatty Substances
[0265] Besides the oils described previously, the composition under
consideration according to the invention may also comprise at least
one solid fatty substance chosen from waxes and pasty fatty
substances, and mixtures thereof.
[0266] Wax(es)
[0267] The composition according to the invention may comprise at
least one wax.
[0268] For the purposes of the invention, the term "wax" means a
lipophilic compound, which is solid at room temperature (25.degree.
C.), with a reversible solid/liquid change of state, which has a
melting point of greater than or equal to 30.degree. C., which may
be up to 120.degree. C.
[0269] The waxes that may be used in a composition according to the
invention are chosen from solid waxes that may or may not be
deformable at room temperature of animal, plant, mineral or
synthetic origin, and mixtures thereof.
[0270] Hydrocarbon-based waxes, for instance beeswax, lanolin wax
or Chinese insect waxes; rice wax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax,
ouricury wax, esparto grass wax, cork fiber wax, sugar cane wax,
Japan wax and sumach wax; montan wax, microcrystalline waxes,
paraffins and ozokerite; polyethylene waxes, the waxes obtained by
Fisher-Tropsch synthesis and waxy copolymers, and also esters
thereof, may especially be used.
[0271] Mention may also be made of waxes obtained by catalytic
hydrogenation of animal or plant oils containing linear or branched
C.sub.8.sup.-C.sub.32 fatty chains.
[0272] Among these waxes that may especially be mentioned are
hydrogenated jojoba oil, hydrogenated sunflower oil, hydrogenated
castor oil, hydrogenated coconut oil, hydrogenated lanolin oil,
bis(1,1,1-trimethylolpropane) tetrastearate sold under the name
Hest 2T-4S by the company Heterene, and
bis(1,1,1-trimethylolpropane) tetrabehenate sold under the name
Hest 2T-4B by the company Heterene.
[0273] The waxes obtained by transesterification and hydrogenation
of plant oils, such as castor oil or olive oil, for instance the
waxes sold under the names Phytowax ricin 16L64.RTM. and 22L73.RTM.
and Phytowax Olive 18L57 by the company Sophim, may also be used.
Such waxes are described in patent application FR-A-2 792 190.
[0274] It is also possible to use silicone waxes, which may
advantageously be substituted polysiloxanes, preferably of low
melting point.
[0275] Among the commercial silicone waxes of this type, mention
may be made especially of those sold under the names Abilwax 9800,
9801 or 9810 (Goldschmidt), KF910 and KF7002 (Shin-Etsu), or
176-1118-3 and 176-11481 (General Electric).
[0276] The silicone waxes that may be used may also be alkyl or
alkoxy dimethicones such as the following commercial products:
Abilwax 2428, 2434 and 2440 (Goldschmidt), or VP 1622 and VP 1621
(Wacker), and also (C.sub.20-C.sub.60) alkyl dimethicones, in
particular (C.sub.30-C.sub.45) alkyl dimethicones, such as the
silicone wax sold under the name SF-1642 by the company GE-Bayer
Silicones.
[0277] It is also possible to use hydrocarbon-based waxes modified
with silicone or fluoro groups, for instance: siliconyl candelilla,
siliconyl beeswax and fluoro beeswax from Koster Keunen.
[0278] The waxes may also be chosen from fluoro waxes.
[0279] According to one embodiment, the composition according to
the invention is free of wax.
[0280] Pasty Fatty Substances
[0281] The composition under consideration according to the
invention may also comprise at least one pasty fatty substance.
[0282] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "pasty
fatty substance" is intended to denote a lipophilic fatty compound
that undergoes a reversible solid/liquid change of state,
exhibiting anisotropic crystal organization in the solid state, and
that comprises, at a temperature of 23.degree. C., a liquid
fraction and a solid fraction.
[0283] In other words, the starting melting point of the pasty
compound can be less than 23.degree. C. The liquid fraction of the
pasty compound measured at 23.degree. C. can represent 9% to 97% by
weight of the compound. This liquid fraction at 23.degree. C.
preferably represents between 15% and 85% and more preferably
between 40% and 85% by weight.
[0284] For the purposes of the invention, the melting point
corresponds to the temperature of the most endothermic peak
observed on thermal analysis (DSC) as described in standard ISO
11357-3; 1999. The melting point of a pasty substance or of a wax
may be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC),
for example the calorimeter sold under the name MDSC 2920 by the
company TA Instruments.
[0285] The measuring protocol is as follows:
[0286] A sample of 5 mg of paste or wax (depending on the case)
placed in a crucible is subjected to a first temperature rise
passing from -20.degree. C. to 100.degree. C., at the heating rate
of 10.degree. C./minute, then is cooled from 100.degree. C. to
-20.degree. C. at a cooling rate of 10.degree. C./minute and
finally subjected to a second temperature rise passing from
-20.degree. C. to 100.degree. C. at a heating rate of 5.degree.
C./minute. During the second temperature rise, the variation in the
difference between the power absorbed by the empty crucible and the
crucible containing the sample of paste or wax as a function of the
temperature is measured. The melting point of the compound is the
temperature value corresponding to the top of the peak of the curve
representing the variation in the difference in power absorbed as a
function of the temperature.
[0287] The liquid fraction by weight of the pasty compound at
23.degree. C. is equal to the ratio of the heat of fusion consumed
at 23.degree. C. to the enthalpy of fusion of the pasty
compound.
[0288] The heat of fusion of the pasty compound is the enthalpy
consumed by the compound in order to pass from the solid state to
the liquid state. The pasty compound is said to be in the solid
state when all of its mass is in crystalline solid form. The pasty
compound is said to be in the liquid state when all of its mass is
in liquid form. The heat of fusion of the pasty compound is equal
to the area under the curve of the thermogram obtained using a
differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), such as the calorimeter
sold under the name MDSC 2920 by the company TA Instrument, with a
temperature rise of 5 or 10.degree. C. per minute, according to
standard ISO 11357-3:1999. The heat of fusion of the pasty compound
is the amount of energy required to make the compound change from
the solid state to the liquid state. It is expressed in J/g.
[0289] The heat of fusion consumed at 23.degree. C. is the amount
of energy absorbed by the sample to change from the solid state to
the state that it has at 23.degree. C., constituted of a liquid
fraction and a solid fraction.
[0290] The liquid fraction of the pasty compound measured at
32.degree. C. preferably represents from 30% to 100% by weight of
the compound, preferably from 50% to 100%, more preferably from 60%
to 100% by weight of the compound. When the liquid fraction of the
pasty compound measured at 32.degree. C. is equal to 100%, the
temperature of the end of the melting range of the pasty compound
is less than or equal to 32.degree. C.
[0291] The liquid fraction of the pasty compound measured at
32.degree. C. is equal to the ratio of the heat of fusion consumed
at 32.degree. C. to the heat of fusion of the pasty compound. The
heat of fusion consumed at 32.degree. C. is calculated in the same
way as the enthalpy of fusion consumed at 23.degree. C.
[0292] The pasty fatty substance is preferably chosen from
synthetic compounds and compounds of plant origin. A pasty fatty
substance may be obtained by synthesis from starting materials of
plant origin.
[0293] The pasty fatty substance is advantageously chosen from:
[0294] lanolin and derivatives thereof, such as lanolin alcohol,
oxyethylenated lanolins, acetylated lanolin, lanolin esters such as
isopropyl lanolate, and oxypropylenated lanolins,
[0295] polymeric or nonpolymeric silicone compounds, for instance
polydimethylsiloxanes of high molecular masses,
polydimethylsiloxanes containing side chains of the alkyl or alkoxy
type containing from 8 to 24 carbon atoms, especially stearyl
dimethicones,
[0296] polymeric or nonpolymeric fluoro compounds,
[0297] vinyl polymers, especially: [0298] olefin homopolymers,
[0299] olefin copolymers, [0300] hydrogenated diene homopolymers
and copolymers, [0301] linear or branched oligomers, homopolymers
or copolymers of alkyl (meth)acrylates preferably containing a
C.sub.8-C.sub.30 alkyl group, [0302] oligomers, homopolymers and
copolymers of vinyl esters containing C.sub.8-C.sub.30 alkyl
groups, [0303] oligomers, homopolymers and copolymers of vinyl
ethers containing C.sub.8-C.sub.30 alkyl groups, [0304] liposoluble
polyethers resulting from the polyetherification between one or
more C.sub.2-C.sub.100 and preferably C.sub.2-0.sub.50 diols,
[0305] esters and polyesters,
[0306] and mixtures thereof.
[0307] The pasty fatty substance may be a polymer, especially a
hydrocarbon-based polymer.
[0308] A preferred silicone and fluoro pasty fatty substance is
polymethyltrifluoropropylmethylalkyldimethylsiloxane, manufactured
under the name X22-1088 by Shin-Etsu.
[0309] When the pasty fatty substance is a silicone and/or fluoro
polymer, the composition advantageously comprises a compatibilizer
such as short-chain esters, for instance isodecyl
neopentanoate.
[0310] Among the liposoluble polyethers, mention may be made
especially of copolymers of ethylene oxide and/or of propylene
oxide with C.sub.6-C.sub.30 alkylene oxides. Preferably, the weight
ratio of the ethylene oxide and/or propylene oxide to the alkylene
oxides in the copolymer is from 5/95 to 70/30. In this family,
mention will be made especially of block copolymers comprising
C.sub.6-C.sub.30 alkylene oxide blocks with a molecular weight
ranging from 1000 to 10 000, for example a
polyoxyethylene/polydodecylene glycol block copolymer such as the
ethers of dodecanediol (22 mol) and of polyethylene glycol (45
oxyethylene or OE units) sold under the brand name Elfacos ST9 by
Akzo Nobel.
[0311] Among the esters, the following are especially
preferred:
[0312] esters of a glycerol oligomer, especially diglycerol esters,
in particular condensates of adipic acid and of glycerol, for which
some of the hydroxyl groups of the glycerols have reacted with a
mixture of fatty acids such as stearic acid, capric acid, stearic
acid and isostearic acid, and 12-hydroxystearic acid, especially
such as those sold under the brand name Softisan 649 by the company
Sasol;
[0313] phytosterol esters;
[0314] pentaerythritol esters;
[0315] esters formed from: [0316] at least one C.sub.16-40 alcohol,
at least one of the alcohols being a Guerbet alcohol, and [0317] a
diacid dimer formed from at least one unsaturated C.sub.18-40 fatty
acid,
[0318] such as the ester of a dimer of fatty acids and of tall oil
comprising 36 carbon atoms and of a mixture i) of Guerbet alcohols
comprising 32 carbon atoms and ii) of behenyl alcohol; the ester of
a dimer of linoleic acid and of a mixture of two Guerbet alcohols,
2-tetradecyloctadecanol (32 carbon atoms) and 2-hexadecyleicosanol
(36 carbon atoms);
[0319] non-crosslinked polyesters resulting from the
polycondensation between a linear or branched C.sub.4-C.sub.50
dicarboxylic acid or polycarboxylic acid and a C.sub.2-C.sub.50
diol or polyol,
[0320] polyesters resulting from the esterification between a
polycarboxylic acid and an aliphatic hydroxylated carboxylic acid,
such as Risocast DA-L and Risocast DA-H sold by the Japanese
company Kokyu Alcohol Kogyo, which are esters resulting from the
esterification reaction of hydrogenated castor oil with dilinoleic
acid or isostearic acid; and
[0321] aliphatic esters of an ester resulting from the
esterification between an ester of an aliphatic hydroxycarboxylic
acid and an aliphatic carboxylic acid, for example the product sold
under the trade name Salacos HCIS (V)-L by the company Nisshin
Oil.
[0322] A Guerbet alcohol is the reaction product of the Guerbet
reaction, which is well known to those skilled in the art. It is a
reaction for transforming a primary aliphatic alcohol into its
.beta.-alkyl dimeric alcohol with loss of one equivalent of
water.
[0323] The aliphatic carboxylic acids described above generally
comprise from 4 to 30 and preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms.
They are preferably chosen from hexanoic acid, heptanoic acid,
octanoic acid, 2-ethylhexanoic acid, nonanoic acid, decanoic acid,
undecanoic acid, dodecanoic acid, tridecanoic acid, tetradecanoic
acid, pentadecanoic acid, hexadecanoic acid, hexyldecanoic acid,
heptadecanoic acid, octadecanoic acid, isostearic acid,
nonadecanoic acid, eicosanoic acid, isoarachidic acid,
octyldodecanoic acid, heneicosanoic acid and docosanoic acid, and
mixtures thereof.
[0324] The aliphatic carboxylic acids are preferably branched.
[0325] The aliphatic hydroxycarboxylic acid esters are
advantageously derived from an aliphatic hydroxycarboxylic acid
comprising from 2 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 34
carbon atoms and better still from 12 to 28 carbon atoms, and from
1 to 20 hydroxyl groups, preferably from 1 to 10 hydroxyl groups
and better still from 1 to 6 hydroxyl groups. The aliphatic
hydroxycarboxylic acid esters are especially chosen from:
[0326] a) partial or total esters of saturated linear
monohydroxylated aliphatic monocarboxylic acids;
[0327] b) partial or total esters of unsaturated monohydroxylated
aliphatic monocarboxylic acids;
[0328] c) partial or total esters of saturated monohydroxylated
aliphatic polycarboxylic acids;
[0329] d) partial or total esters of saturated polyhydroxylated
aliphatic polycarboxylic acids;
[0330] e) partial or total esters of C.sub.2 to C.sub.16 aliphatic
polyols that have reacted with a monohydroxylated or
polyhydroxylated aliphatic monocarboxylic or polycarboxylic
acid,
[0331] f) and mixtures thereof.
[0332] The aliphatic esters of an ester are advantageously chosen
from: [0333] the ester resulting from the esterification reaction
of hydrogenated castor oil with isostearic acid in proportions of 1
to 1 (1/1), known as hydrogenated castor oil monoisostearate,
[0334] the ester resulting from the esterification reaction of
hydrogenated castor oil with isostearic acid in proportions of 1 to
2 (1/2), known as hydrogenated castor oil diisostearate, [0335] the
ester resulting from the esterification reaction of hydrogenated
castor oil with isostearic acid in proportions of 1 to 3 (1/3),
known as hydrogenated castor oil triisostearate, [0336] and
mixtures thereof.
[0337] The pasty fatty substance(s) may be present in an amount
ranging from 0.5% to 30% by weight and especially from 1% to 20% by
weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0338] A composition used according to the invention may comprise,
besides the abovementioned compounds, at least one structuring
agent chosen from semicrystalline polymers, and mixtures
thereof.
[0339] Semicrystalline Polymer
[0340] The composition according to the invention may also comprise
at least one semicrystalline polymer, in particular a
semicrystalline polymer of organic structure whose melting point is
greater than or equal to 30.degree. C.
[0341] Preferably, the total amount of semicrystalline polymer(s)
represents from 2% to 20% by weight, for example from 3% to 15% and
better still from 4% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight
of the composition.
[0342] For the purposes of the invention, the term "polymers" means
compounds comprising at least two repeating units, preferably at
least three repeating units and more especially at least ten
repeating units.
[0343] For the purposes of the invention, the term "semicrystalline
polymer" means polymers comprising a crystallizable portion and an
amorphous portion and having a first-order reversible change of
phase temperature, in particular of melting (solid-liquid
transition). The crystallizable portion is either a side chain (or
pendent chain) or a block in the backbone.
[0344] When the crystallizable portion of the semicrystalline
polymer is a block of the polymer backbone, this crystallizable
block has a chemical nature different than that of the amorphous
blocks; in this case, the semicrystalline polymer is a block
copolymer, for example of the diblock, triblock or multiblock type.
When the crystallizable portion is a chain that is pendent on the
backbone, the semicrystalline polymer may be a homopolymer or a
copolymer.
[0345] The terms "organic compound" and "having an organic
structure" mean compounds containing carbon atoms and hydrogen
atoms and optionally heteroatoms such as S, O, N or P, alone or in
combination.
[0346] The melting point of the semicrystalline polymer is
preferably less than 150.degree. C.
[0347] The melting point of the semicrystalline polymer is
preferably greater than or equal to 30.degree. C. and less than
100.degree. C. More preferably, the melting point of the
semicrystalline polymer is preferably greater than or equal to
30.degree. C. and less than 70.degree. C.
[0348] The semicrystalline polymer(s) according to the invention
are solid at room temperature (25.degree. C.) and atmospheric
pressure (760 mmHg), with a melting point of greater than or equal
to 30.degree. C. The melting point values correspond to the melting
point measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC),
such as the calorimeter sold under the name DSC 30 by the company
Mettler, with a temperature rise of 5 or 10.degree. C. per minute.
(The melting point under consideration is the point corresponding
to the temperature of the most endothermic peak of the
thermogram).
[0349] The semicrystalline polymer(s) according to the invention
preferably have a melting point that is higher than the temperature
of the keratinous support intended to receive said composition, in
particular the skin or the lips.
[0350] According to the invention, the semicrystalline polymers are
advantageously soluble in the fatty phase, especially to at least
1% by weight, at a temperature that is higher than their melting
point. Besides the crystallizable chains or blocks, the blocks of
the polymers are amorphous.
[0351] For the purposes of the invention, the expression
"crystallizable chain or block" means a chain or block which, if it
were obtained alone, would change from the amorphous state to the
crystalline state reversibly, depending on whether one is above or
below the melting point. For the purposes of the invention, a
"chain" is a group of atoms, which are pendent or lateral relative
to the polymer backbone. A "block" is a group of atoms belonging to
the backbone, this group constituting one of the repeating units of
the polymer.
[0352] According to one preferred embodiment, the semicrystalline
polymer is chosen from:
[0353] homopolymers and copolymers comprising units resulting from
the polymerization of one or more monomers bearing crystallizable
hydrophobic side chains,
[0354] polymers bearing in the backbone at least one crystallizable
block,
[0355] polycondensates of aliphatic or aromatic or
aliphatic/aromatic polyester type,
[0356] copolymers of ethylene and propylene prepared via
metallocene catalysis.
[0357] The semicrystalline polymers that may be used in the
invention may in particular be chosen from:
[0358] block copolymers of polyolefins of controlled
crystallization, whose monomers are described in EP-A-0 951
897,
[0359] polycondensates, especially of aliphatic or aromatic
polyester type or of aliphatic/aromatic polyester type,
[0360] copolymers of ethylene and propylene prepared via
metallocene catalysis,
[0361] homopolymers or copolymers bearing at least one
crystallizable side chain and homopolymers or copolymers bearing at
least one crystallizable block in the backbone, for instance those
described in document U.S. Pat. No. 5,156,911,
[0362] homopolymers or copolymers bearing at least one
crystallizable side chain, in particular bearing fluoro group(s),
such as those described in document WO-A-01/19333,
[0363] and mixtures thereof.
[0364] Examples of semicrystalline polymers that may be mentioned
include those described in patent application WO 2010/010 301, the
content of which is incorporated by reference.
[0365] Aqueous Phase
[0366] As stated hereinabove, a composition according to the
invention comprises water.
[0367] Preferably, the composition according to the invention
comprises at least 2% by weight of water, preferably at least 5% by
weight of water and preferably at least 10% by weight of water,
relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0368] The water may be present in a total content ranging from 2%
to 80% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Preferably, the water is present in a total content ranging from
15% to 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of the
composition.
[0369] The composition in accordance with the invention may
comprise, besides water, at least one water-soluble solvent.
[0370] The aqueous phase may constitute the continuous phase of the
composition.
[0371] The term "composition with an aqueous continuous phase"
means that the composition has a conductivity, measured at
25.degree. C., of greater than or equal to 23 .mu.S/cm
(microSiemens/cm), the conductivity being measured, for example,
using an MPC227 conductimeter from Mettler Toledo and an Inlab730
conductivity measuring cell. The measuring cell is immersed in the
composition so as to remove the air bubbles that might be formed
between the two electrodes of the cell. The conductivity reading is
taken once the conductimeter value has stabilized. A mean is
determined on at least three successive measurements.
[0372] In the present invention, the term "water-soluble solvent"
denotes a compound that is liquid at room temperature and
water-miscible (miscibility with water of greater than 50% by
weight at 25.degree. C. and atmospheric pressure).
[0373] The water-soluble solvents that may be used in the
compositions according to the invention may also be volatile.
[0374] Among the water-soluble solvents that may be used in the
compositions in accordance with the invention, mention may be made
especially of lower monoalcohols containing from 1 to 5 carbon
atoms such as ethanol and isopropanol, glycols containing from 2 to
8 carbon atoms such as ethylene glycol, propylene glycol,
1,3-butylene glycol and dipropylene glycol, C.sub.3-C.sub.4 ketones
and C.sub.2-C.sub.4 aldehydes.
[0375] The aqueous phase (water and optionally the water-miscible
solvent) may be present in the composition in a content ranging
from 2% to 95% by weight and preferably ranging from 5% to 80% by
weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0376] In a particularly preferred manner, the aqueous phase (water
and optionally the water-miscible solvent) is present in the
composition in a content ranging from 10% to 60% by weight,
preferably from 15% to 50% by weight and preferably from 20% to 40%
by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0377] The aqueous phase according to the invention may also
comprise at least one hydrophilic film-forming polymer and/or at
least one hydrophilic thickener and/or at least one surfactant.
However, the content of aqueous phase indicated previously does not
include the contents of each of the abovementioned compounds.
[0378] According to one particularly preferred embodiment, the
composition according to the invention is an oil-in-water
emulsion.
[0379] Stabilizer
[0380] The composition according to the invention comprises at
least one stabilizer chosen from surfactants and/or hydrophilic
gelling agents, preferably chosen from associative polymers.
[0381] Preferably, the composition is such that the surfactant, if
present, is in a content ranging from 0.1% to 20% by weight,
relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0382] Preferably, the composition is such that the hydrophilic
gelling agent (preferably an associative polymer), if present, is
in a content ranging from 0.1% to 10% by weight, relative to the
total weight of the composition.
[0383] Surfactants
[0384] The composition according to the invention may contain an
emulsifying system comprising one or more surfactants that are
especially present in a content ranging from 0.1% to 20% by weight,
or even 0.5% to 15% by weight and preferably ranging from 1% to 10%
by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0385] Advantageously, when the composition comprises a surfactant,
this surfactant is present in a content such that the total content
of nonvolatile oils/content of surfactant(s) weight ratio is
between 1 and 40 and preferably between 5 and 35.
[0386] Preferably, they are present in a total content of
nonvolatile oils/content of surfactant(s) weight ratio of between 8
and 25.
[0387] An emulsifying surfactant appropriately chosen to obtain an
oil-in-water emulsion is preferably used.
[0388] In particular, an emulsifying surfactant having at
25.degree. C. an HLB balance (hydrophilic-lipophilic balance)
within the Griffin sense of greater than or equal to 8 may be
used.
[0389] An emulsifying surfactant having at 25.degree. C. an HLB
balance (hydrophilic-lipophilic balance) within the Griffin sense
of less than 8 may also be used.
[0390] The Griffin HLB value is defined in J. Soc. Cosm. Chem. 1954
(volume 5), pages 249-256.
[0391] These surfactants may be chosen from nonionic, anionic,
cationic and amphoteric surfactants, and mixtures thereof.
Reference may be made to Kirk-Othmer's Encyclopedia of Chemical
Technology, Volume 22, pp. 333-432, 3rd Edition, 1979, Wiley, for
the definition of the emulsifying properties and functions of
surfactants, in particular pp. 347-377 of this reference, for the
anionic, amphoteric and nonionic surfactants.
[0392] According to a first embodiment, the composition comprises
at least one hydrocarbon-based surfactant.
[0393] Examples of hydrocarbon-based surfactants that are suitable
for use in the invention are described below.
[0394] According to one particularly preferred embodiment, as seen
previously, the composition of the invention comprises at least one
surfactant chosen from anionic and nonionic surfactants, which is
introduced, at least partly, via the aqueous dispersion of
alkylcellulose used during the preparation of a composition of the
invention.
[0395] Nonionic Surfactants
[0396] The nonionic surfactants may be chosen especially from alkyl
and polyalkyl esters of poly(ethylene oxide), oxyalkylenated
alcohols, alkyl and polyalkyl ethers of poly(ethylene oxide),
optionally polyoxyethylenated alkyl and polyalkyl esters of
sorbitan, optionally polyoxyethylenated alkyl and polyalkyl ethers
of sorbitan, alkyl and polyalkyl glycosides or polyglycosides, in
particular alkyl and polyalkyl glucosides or polyglucosides, alkyl
and polyalkyl esters of sucrose, optionally polyoxyethylenated
alkyl and polyalkyl esters of glycerol, and optionally
polyoxyethylenated alkyl and polyalkyl ethers of glycerol, and
mixtures thereof.
[0397] 1) Alkyl and polyalkyl esters of poly(ethylene oxide) that
are preferably used include those with a number of ethylene oxide
(EO) units ranging from 2 to 200. Examples that may be mentioned
include stearate 40 EO, stearate 50 EO, stearate 100 EO, laurate 20
EO, laurate 40 EO and distearate 150 EO.
[0398] 2) Alkyl and polyalkyl ethers of poly(ethylene oxide) that
are preferably used include those with a number of ethylene oxide
(EO) units ranging from 2 to 200. Examples that may be mentioned
include cetyl ether 23 EO, oleyl ether 50 EO, phytosterol 30 EO,
steareth 40, steareth 100 and beheneth 100.
[0399] 3) As oxyalkylenated alcohols, which are in particular
oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylenated, use is preferably made of
those that can comprise from 1 to 150 oxyethylene and/or
oxypropylene units, in particular containing from 20 to 100
oxyethylene units, in particular ethoxylated fatty alcohols,
especially of C.sub.8-C.sub.24 and preferably C.sub.12-C.sub.18,
such as stearyl alcohol ethoxylated with 20 oxyethylene units (CTFA
name Steareth-20), for instance Brij 78 sold by the company
Uniqema, cetearyl alcohol ethoxylated with 30 oxyethylene units
(CTFA name Ceteareth-30), and the mixture of C.sub.12-C.sub.15
fatty alcohols comprising 7 oxyethylene units (CTFA name
C.sub.12-C.sub.15 Pareth-7), for instance the product sold under
the name Neodol 25-7.RTM. by Shell Chemicals; or in particular
oxyalkylenated (oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylenated) alcohols
containing from 1 to 15 oxyethylene and/or oxypropylene units, in
particular ethoxylated C.sub.8-C.sub.24 and preferably
C.sub.12-C.sub.18 fatty alcohols, such as stearyl alcohol
ethoxylated with 2 oxyethylene units (CTFA name Steareth-2), for
instance Brij 72 sold by the company Uniqema;
[0400] 4) Optionally polyoxyethylenated alkyl and polyalkyl esters
of sorbitan that are preferably used include those with a number of
ethylene oxide (EO) units ranging from 0 to 100. Examples that may
be mentioned include sorbitan laurate 4 or 20 EO, in particular
polysorbate 20 (or polyoxyethylene (20) sorbitan monolaurate) such
as the product Tween 20 sold by the company Uniqema, sorbitan
palmitate 20 EO, sorbitan stearate 20 EO, sorbitan oleate 20 EO, or
the Cremophor products (RH 40, RH 60, etc.) from BASF.
[0401] 5) Optionally polyoxyethylenated alkyl and polyalkyl ethers
of sorbitan that are preferably used include those with a number of
ethylene oxide (EO) units ranging from 0 to 100.
[0402] 6) Alkyl and polyalkyl glucosides or polyglucosides that are
preferably used include those containing an alkyl group comprising
from 6 to 30 carbon atoms and preferably from 6 to 18 or even from
8 to 16 carbon atoms, and containing a glucoside group preferably
comprising from 1 to 5 and especially 1, 2 or 3 glucoside units.
The alkylpolyglucosides may be chosen, for example, from
decylglucoside (alkyl-C.sub.9/C.sub.11-polyglucoside (1.4)), for
instance the product sold under the name Mydol 10.RTM. by the
company Kao Chemicals or the product sold under the name Plantacare
2000 UP.RTM. by the company Henkel and the product sold under the
name Oramix NS 10.RTM. by the company SEPPIC; caprylyl/capryl
glucoside, for instance the product sold under the name Plantacare
KE 3711.RTM. by the company Cognis or Oramix CG 110.RTM. by the
company SEPPIC; laurylglucoside, for instance the product sold
under the name Plantacare 1200 UP.RTM. by the company Henkel or
Plantaren 1200 N.RTM. by the company Henkel; cocoglucoside, for
instance the product sold under the name Plantacare 818 UP.RTM. by
the company Henkel; caprylylglucoside, for instance the product
sold under the name Plantacare 810 UP.RTM. by the company Cognis;
and mixtures thereof.
[0403] More generally, the surfactants of alkylpolyglycoside type
are defined more specifically hereinbelow.
[0404] 7) Examples of alkyl and polyalkyl esters of sucrose that
may be mentioned include Crodesta F150, sucrose monolaurate sold
under the name Crodesta SL 40, and the products sold by Ryoto Sugar
Ester, for instance sucrose palmitate sold under the reference
Ryoto Sugar Ester P1670, Ryoto Sugar Ester LWA1695 or Ryoto Sugar
Ester 01570.
[0405] 8) Optionally polyoxyethylenated alkyl and polyalkyl esters
of glycerol that are preferably used include those with a number of
ethylene oxide (EO) units ranging from 0 to 100 and a number of
glycerol units ranging from 1 to 30. Examples that may be mentioned
include hexaglyceryl monolaurate and PEG-30 glyceryl stearate.
[0406] 9) Optionally polyoxyethylenated alkyl and polyalkyl ethers
of glycerol that are preferably used include those with a number of
ethylene oxide (EO) units ranging from 0 to 100 and a number of
glycerol units ranging from 1 to 30. Examples that may be mentioned
include Nikkol batyl alcohol 100 and Nikkol chimyl alcohol 100.
[0407] Anionic Surfactants
[0408] The anionic surfactants may be chosen from alkyl ether
sulfates, carboxylates, amino acid derivatives, sulfonates,
isethionates, taurates, sulfosuccinates, alkylsulfoacetates,
phosphates and alkyl phosphates, polypeptides, metal salts of
C.sub.10-C.sub.30 and especially C.sub.12-C.sub.20 fatty acids, in
particular metal stearates, and mixtures thereof.
[0409] 1) Examples of alkyl ether sulfates that may be mentioned
include sodium lauryl ether sulfate (70/30 C12-14) (2.2 EO) sold
under the names Sipon AOS225 or Texapon N702 by the company Henkel,
ammonium lauryl ether sulfate (70/30 C12-14) (3 EO) sold under the
name Sipon LEA 370 by the company Henkel, ammonium
(C.sub.12-C.sub.14)alkyl ether (9 EO) sulfate sold under the name
Rhodapex AB/20 by the company Rhodia Chimie, and the mixture of
sodium magnesium lauryl oleyl ether sulfate sold under the name
Empicol BSD 52 by the company Albright & Wilson.
[0410] 2) Examples of carboxylates that may be mentioned include
salts (for example alkali metal salts) of N-acylamino acids, glycol
carboxylates, amido ether carboxylates (AEC) and polyoxyethylenated
carboxylic acid salts.
[0411] The surfactant of glycol carboxylate type may be chosen from
alkyl glycol carboxylics or 2-(2-hydroxyalkyloxyacetate), salts
thereof and mixtures thereof. These alkyl glycol carboxylics
comprise a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated aliphatic
and/or aromatic alkyl chain containing from 8 to 18 carbon atoms.
These carboxylics may be neutralized with mineral bases such as
potassium hydroxide or sodium hydroxide.
[0412] Examples of surfactants of glycol carboxylic type that may
be mentioned include sodium lauryl glycol carboxylate or sodium
2-(2-hydroxyalkyloxyacetate) such as the product sold under the
name Beaulight Shaa.RTM. by the company Sanyo, Beaulight
LCA-25N.RTM. or the corresponding acid form Beaulight Shaa (Acid
form).RTM..
[0413] An example of an amido ether carboxylate (AEC) that may be
mentioned includes sodium lauryl amido ether carboxylate (3 OE)
sold under the name Akypo Foam 30.RTM. by the company Kao
Chemicals.
[0414] Examples of polyoxyethylenated carboxylic acid salts that
may be mentioned include oxyethylenated (6 OE) sodium lauryl ether
carboxylate (65/25/10 C12-14-16) sold under the name Akypo Soft 45
NV.RTM. by the company Kao Chemicals, polyoxyethylenated and
carboxymethylated fatty acids of olive oil origin sold under the
name Olivem 400.RTM. by the company Biologia e Tecnologia, and
oxyethylenated (6 OE) sodium tridecyl ether carboxylate sold under
the name Nikkol ECTD-6 NEX.RTM. by the company Nikkol.
[0415] 3) Amino acid derivatives that may especially be mentioned
include alkali metal salts of amino acids, such as:
[0416] sarcosinates, for instance the sodium lauroyl sarcosinate
sold under the name Sarkosyl NL 97.RTM. by the company Ciba or sold
under the name Oramix L30.RTM. by the company SEPPIC, sodium
myristoyl sarcosinate sold under the name Nikkol Sarcosinate
MN.RTM. by the company Nikkol, and sodium palmitoyl sarcosinate
sold under the name Nikkol Sarcosinate PN.RTM. by the company
Nikkol;
[0417] alaninates, for instance sodium N-lauroyl-N-methyl
amidopropionate sold under the name Sodium Nikkol Alaninate
LN30.RTM. by the company Nikkol, or sold under the name Alanone
ALE.RTM. by the company Kawaken, and triethanolamine N-lauroyl
N-methyl alanine sold under the name Alanone Alta.RTM. by the
company Kawaken;
[0418] glutamates, for instance triethanolamine monococoyl
glutamate sold under the name Acylglutamate CT-12.RTM. by the
company Ajinomoto, or triethanolamine lauroyl glutamate sold under
the name Acylglutamate LT-12.RTM. by the company Ajinomoto.
[0419] The glutamic acid salts and/or derivatives are described
more specifically hereinbelow.
[0420] aspartates, for instance the mixture of triethanolamine N
lauroyl aspartate and of triethanolamine N-myristoyl aspartate,
sold under the name Asparack.RTM. by the company Mitsubishi;
[0421] glycine derivatives (glycinates), for instance the sodium N
cocoyl glycinate sold under the names Amilite GCS-12.RTM. and
Amilite GCK 12 by the company Ajinomoto;
[0422] citrates, such as the oxyethylenated (9 mol) citric
monoester of cocoyl alcohols sold under the name Witconol EC 1129
by the company Goldschmidt;
[0423] galacturonates, such as the sodium dodecyl-D-galactoside
uronate sold by the company Soliance.
[0424] 4) Examples of sulfonates that may be mentioned
include--olefin sulfonates, for instance the sodium--olefin
sulfonate (C.sub.14-16) sold under the name Bio-Terge AS 40.RTM. by
the company Stepan, sold under the names Witconate AOS Protege.RTM.
and Sulframine AOS PH 12.RTM. by the company Witco or sold under
the name Bio-Terge AS 40 CG.RTM. by the company Stepan, the sodium
secondary olefin sulfonate sold under the name Hostapur SAS 30.RTM.
by the company Clariant.
[0425] 5) Isethionates that may be mentioned include
acylisethionates, for instance sodium cocoylisethionate, such as
the product sold under the name Jordapon CI P.RTM. by the company
Jordan.
[0426] 6) Taurates that may be mentioned include the sodium salt of
palm kernel oil methyltaurate sold under the name Hostapon CT
Pate.RTM. by the company Clariant; N-acyl N-methyltaurates, for
instance the sodium N-cocoyl N-methyltaurate sold under the name
Hostapon LT-SF.RTM. by the company Clariant or sold under the name
Nikkol CMT-30-T.RTM. by the company Nikkol, and the sodium
palmitoyl methyltaurate sold under the name Nikkol PMT.RTM. by the
company Nikkol.
[0427] 7) Examples of sulfosuccinates that may be mentioned include
the oxyethylenated (3 OE) lauryl monosulfosuccinate (70/30
C.sub.12/C.sub.14) sold under the names Setacin 103 Special.RTM.
and Rewopol SB-FA 30 K 4.RTM. by the company Witco, the disodium
salt of a C.sub.12-C.sub.14 alkyl hemisulfosuccinate, sold under
the name Setacin F Special Paste.RTM. by the company Zschimmer
Schwarz, the oxyethylenated (2 OE) disodium oleamidosulfosuccinate
sold under the name Standapol SH 135.RTM. by the company Henkel,
the oxyethylenated (5 OE) laurylamide monosulfosuccinate sold under
the name Lebon A-5000.RTM. by the company Sanyo, the oxyethylenated
(10 OE) disodium salt of lauryl citrate monosulfosuccinate sold
under the name Rewopol SB CS 50.RTM. by the company Witco, and the
ricinoleic monoethanolamide monosulfosuccinate sold under the name
Rewoderm S 1333.RTM. by the company Witco. Polydimethylsiloxane
sulfosuccinates may also be used, such as disodium PEG-12
dimethicone sulfosuccinate sold under the name Mackanate-DC30 by
the company Maclntyre.
[0428] 8) Examples of alkyl sulfoacetates that may be mentioned
include the mixture of sodium lauryl sulfoacetate and disodium
lauryl ether sulfosuccinate, sold under the name Stepan Mild LSB by
the company Stepan.
[0429] 9) Examples of phosphates and alkyl phosphates that may be
mentioned include monoalkyl phosphates and dialkyl phosphates, such
as the lauryl monophosphate sold under the name MAP 20.RTM. by the
company Kao Chemicals, the potassium salt of dodecylphosphoric
acid, mixture of monoester and diester (predominantly diester) sold
under the name Crafol AP-31.RTM. by the company Cognis, the mixture
of octylphosphoric acid monoester and diester sold under the name
Crafol AP-20.RTM. by the company Cognis, the mixture of ethoxylated
(7 mol of EO) phosphoric acid diester and monoester of
2-butyloctanol, sold under the name Isofol 12 7 EO-Phosphate
Ester.RTM. by the company Condea, the potassium or triethanolamine
salt of mono(C.sub.12-C.sub.13)alkyl phosphate sold under the
references Arlatone MAP 230K-40.RTM. and Arlatone MAP 230T-60.RTM.
by the company Uniqema, the potassium lauryl phosphate sold under
the name Dermalcare MAP XC-99/09.RTM. by the company Rhodia Chimie,
and the potassium cetyl phosphate sold under the name Arlatone MAP
160K by the company Uniqema.
[0430] 10) The polypeptides are obtained, for example, by
condensation of a fatty chain onto amino acids from cereals and
especially from wheat and oat. Examples of polypeptides that may be
mentioned include the potassium salt of hydrolyzed lauroyl wheat
protein, sold under the name Aminofoam W OR by the company Croda,
the triethanolamine salt of hydrolyzed cocoyl soybean protein, sold
under the name May-Tein SY by the company Maybrook, the sodium salt
of lauroyl oat amino acids, sold under the name Proteol Oat by the
company SEPPIC, collagen hydrolyzate grafted onto coconut fatty
acid, sold under the name Geliderm 3000 by the company Deutsche
Gelatine, and soybean proteins acylated with hydrogenated coconut
acids, sold under the name Proteol VS 22 by the company SEPPIC.
[0431] 11) as metal salts of C.sub.10-C.sub.30 and especially
C.sub.12-C.sub.20 fatty acids, mention may be made in particular of
metal stearates, such as sodium stearate and potassium stearate,
and also polyhydroxystearates.
[0432] Cationic Surfactants
[0433] The cationic surfactants may be chosen from:
[0434] alkylimidazolidiniums such as isostearylethylimidonium
ethosulfate,
[0435] ammonium salts such as (C.sub.12-30 alkyl)tri(C.sub.1-4
alkyl)ammonium halides, for instance
N,N,N-trimethyl-1-docosanaminium chloride (or behentrimonium
chloride).
[0436] The compositions according to the invention may also contain
one or more amphoteric surfactants, for instance N-acylamino acids
such as N-alkyl aminoacetates and disodium cocoamphodiacetate, and
amine oxides such as stearamine oxide, or alternatively silicone
surfactants, for instance dimethicone copolyol phosphates such as
the product sold under the name Pecosil PS 100.RTM. by the company
Phoenix Chemical.
[0437] According to a second embodiment, the composition comprises
at least one silicone surfactant. Examples that may be mentioned
include:
[0438] a) nonionic surfactants with an HLB of greater than or equal
to 8 at 25.degree. C., used alone or as a mixture; mention may be
made especially of:
[0439] dimethicone copolyol, such as the product sold under the
name Q2-5220.RTM. by the company Dow Corning;
[0440] dimethicone copolyol benzoate, such as the product sold
under the names Finsolv SLB 101.RTM. and 201.RTM. by the company
Finetex;
[0441] b) nonionic surfactants with an HLB of less than 8 at
25.degree. C., used alone or as a mixture; mention may be made
especially of:
[0442] the mixture of cyclomethicone/dimethicone copolyol sold
under the name Q2-3225C.RTM. by the company Dow Corning.
[0443] Hydrophilic Gelling Polymers
[0444] For the purposes of the present patent application, the term
"polymer for gelling the aqueous phase" means a polymer that is
capable of gelling the aqueous phase of the compositions according
to the invention.
[0445] The gelling polymer that may be used according to the
invention may especially be characterized by its capacity to form
in water, beyond a certain concentration C*, a gel characterized by
oscillatory rheology (.mu.=1 Hz) by a flow threshold .tau..sub.c at
least equal to 10 Pa. This concentration C* may vary widely
according to the nature of the gelling polymer under
consideration.
[0446] By way of illustration, this concentration is between 1% and
2% by weight for an acrylamide/sodium
acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonate copolymer as an inverse
emulsion at 40% in polysorbate 80/I-C16, for instance the product
sold under the name Simulgel 600 by the company SEPPIC, and is
about 0.5% by weight for an AMPS/ethoxylated (25 EO) cetearyl
methacrylate copolymer crosslinked with trimethylolpropane
triacrylate (TMPTA) of the type such as Aristoflex HMS.
[0447] The gelling polymer may be present in the composition in an
amount that is sufficient to adjust the stiffness modulus G* (1 Hz,
25.degree. C.) of the composition to a value greater than or equal
to 10 000 Pa and especially ranging from 10 000 Pa to 100 000 Pa.
The method for measuring the stiffness modulus G* (1 Hz, 25.degree.
C.) of the composition is described in greater detail
hereinbelow.
[0448] The gelling polymer is a hydrophilic polymer and is thus
present in the aqueous phase of the composition.
[0449] More particularly, this gelling polymer may be chosen
from:
[0450] acrylic or methacrylic acid homopolymers or copolymers or
salts and esters thereof and in particular the products sold under
the names Versicol F or Versicol K by the company Allied Colloid,
Ultrahold 8 by the company Ciba-Geigy, and polyacrylic acids of
Synthalen K type, and salts, especially sodium salts, of
polyacrylic acids (corresponding to the INCI name sodium acrylate
copolymer) and more particularly a crosslinked sodium polyacrylate
(corresponding to the INCI name sodium acrylate copolymer (and)
caprylic/capric triglycerides) sold under the name Luvigel EM by
the company,
[0451] copolymers of acrylic acid and of acrylamide sold in the
form of the sodium salt thereof under the names Reten by the
company Hercules, the sodium polymethacrylate sold under the name
Darvan No. 7 by the company Vanderbilt, and the sodium salts of
polyhydroxycarboxylic acids sold under the name Hydagen F by the
company Henkel,
[0452] polyacrylic acid/alkyl acrylate copolymers, preferably
modified or unmodified carboxyvinyl polymers; the copolymers most
particularly preferred according to the present invention are
acrylate/C.sub.10-C.sub.30-alkylacrylate copolymers (INCI name:
Acrylates/C.sub.10-30 Alkyl acrylate Crosspolymer) such as the
products sold by the company Lubrizol under the trade names Pemulen
TR1, Pemulen TR2, Carbopol 1382 and Carbopol EDT 2020, and even
more preferentially Pemulen TR-2;
[0453] AMPS (polyacrylamidomethylpropanesulfonic acid partially
neutralized with aqueous ammonia and highly crosslinked) sold by
the company Clariant,
[0454] AMPS/acrylamide copolymers of Sepigel or Simulgel type sold
by the company SEPPIC, and
[0455] polyoxyethylenated AMPS/alkyl methacrylate copolymers
(crosslinked or non-crosslinked) of the type such as Aristoflex HMS
sold by the company Clariant,
[0456] and mixtures thereof.
[0457] Other examples of hydrophilic gelling polymers that may be
mentioned include:
[0458] anionic, cationic, amphoteric or nonionic chitin or chitosan
polymers;
[0459] cellulose polymers, other than alkylcellulose, chosen from
hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose,
hydroxymethylcellulose, ethylhydroxyethylcellulose and
carboxymethylcellulose, and also quaternized cellulose
derivatives;
[0460] vinyl polymers, for instance polyvinylpyrrolidones,
copolymers of methyl vinyl ether and of malic anhydride, the
copolymer of vinyl acetate and of crotonic acid, copolymers of
vinylpyrrolidone and of vinyl acetate; copolymers of
vinylpyrrolidone and of caprolactam; polyvinyl alcohol;
[0461] optionally modified polymers of natural origin, such as:
galactomannans and derivatives thereof, such as konjac gum, gellan
gum, locust bean gum, fenugreek gum, karaya gum, gum tragacanth,
gum arabic, acacia gum, guar gum, hydroxypropyl guar, hydroxypropyl
guar modified with sodium methylcarboxylate groups (Jaguar XC97-1,
Rhodia), hydroxypropyltrimethylammonium guar chloride, and xanthan
derivatives; [0462] alginates and carrageenans; [0463]
glycoaminoglycans, hyaluronic acid and derivatives thereof; [0464]
deoxyribonucleic acid; [0465] mucopolysaccharides such as
hyaluronic acid and chondroitin sulfates, and mixtures thereof.
[0466] According to one preferred embodiment, the gelling polymer
is chosen from optionally modified polymers of natural origin, in
particular guar gum.
[0467] According to one preferred embodiment, the gelling polymer
is chosen from acrylic or methacrylic acid homopolymers or
copolymers or salts and esters thereof, polyacrylic acids and
polyacrylic acid salts, or mixtures thereof.
[0468] According to one preferred embodiment, the gelling polymer
is a sodium salt of polyacrylic acid, especially a crosslinked
sodium polyacrylate.
[0469] According to one particularly preferred embodiment, the
gelling agent is chosen from associative polymers.
[0470] For the purposes of the present invention, the term
"associative polymer" means any amphiphilic polymer comprising in
its structure at least one fatty chain and at least one hydrophilic
portion. The associative polymers in accordance with the present
invention may be anionic, cationic, nonionic or amphoteric.
[0471] Associative Anionic Polymers
[0472] Among the associative anionic polymers that may be mentioned
are those comprising at least one hydrophilic unit, and at least
one fatty-chain allyl ether unit, more particularly those whose
hydrophilic unit is formed by an unsaturated ethylenic anionic
monomer, advantageously by a vinylcarboxylic acid and most
particularly by an acrylic acid or a methacrylic acid or mixtures
thereof, and whose fatty-chain allyl ether unit corresponds to the
monomer of formula (I) below:
CH.sub.2.dbd.C(R')CH.sub.2OB.sub.nR (I)
[0473] in which R' denotes H or CH.sub.3, B denotes an ethylenoxy
radical, n is zero or denotes an integer ranging from 1 to 100, R
denotes a hydrocarbon-based radical chosen from alkyl, arylalkyl,
aryl, alkylaryl and cycloalkyl radicals, comprising from 8 to 30
carbon atoms, preferably 10 to 24 and even more particularly from
12 to 18 carbon atoms.
[0474] Anionic amphiphilic polymers of this type are described and
prepared, according to an emulsion polymerization process, in
patent EP-0 216 479.
[0475] Among the associative anionic polymers that may also be
mentioned are maleic anhydride/C.sub.30-C.sub.38
.alpha.-olefin/alkyl maleate terpolymers, such as the product
(maleic anhydride/C.sub.30-C.sub.38 .alpha.-olefin/isopropyl
maleate copolymer) sold under the name Performa V 1608 by the
company Newphase Technologies.
[0476] Among the associative anionic polymers, it is possible,
according to one preferred embodiment, to use copolymers comprising
among their monomers an .alpha.,.beta.-monoethylenically
unsaturated carboxylic acid and an ester of an
.alpha.,.beta.-monoethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acid and of
an oxyalkylenated fatty alcohol.
[0477] Preferentially, these compounds also comprise as monomer an
ester of an .alpha.,.beta.-monoethylenically unsaturated carboxylic
acid and of a C.sub.1-C.sub.4 alcohol.
[0478] Examples of compounds of this type that may be mentioned
include Aculyn 22.RTM. sold by the company Rohm & Haas, which
is a methacrylic acid/ethyl acrylate/oxyalkylenated stearyl
methacrylate (comprising 20 OE units) terpolymer, or Aculyn 28
(methacrylic acid/ethyl acrylate/oxyethylenated behenyl
methacrylate (25 OE) terpolymer).
[0479] Examples of associative anionic polymers that may also be
mentioned include anionic polymers comprising at least one
hydrophilic unit of unsaturated olefinic carboxylic acid type, and
at least one hydrophobic unit exclusively of the type such as a
(C.sub.10-C.sub.30) alkyl ester of an unsaturated carboxylic acid.
Examples that may be mentioned include the anionic polymers
described and prepared according to patents U.S. Pat. Nos.
3,915,921 and 4,509,949.
[0480] Cationic Associative Polymers
[0481] Cationic associative polymers that may be mentioned include
quaternized cellulose derivatives and polyacrylates bearing amine
side groups.
[0482] The quaternized cellulose derivatives are, in
particular:
[0483] quaternized celluloses modified with groups comprising at
least one fatty chain, such as alkyl, arylalkyl or alkylaryl groups
comprising at least 8 carbon atoms, or mixtures thereof,
[0484] quaternized hydroxyethylcelluloses modified with groups
comprising at least one fatty chain, such as alkyl, arylalkyl or
alkylaryl groups comprising at least 8 carbon atoms, or mixtures
thereof.
[0485] The polyacrylates bearing quaternized or non-quaternized
amine side groups contain, for example, hydrophobic groups of the
type such as steareth-20 (polyoxyethylenated (20) stearyl
alcohol).
[0486] The alkyl radicals borne by the above quaternized celluloses
or hydroxyethylcelluloses preferably comprise from 8 to 30 carbon
atoms. The aryl radicals preferably denote phenyl, benzyl, naphthyl
or anthryl groups.
[0487] Examples of quaternized alkylhydroxyethylcelluloses
containing C.sub.8-C.sub.30 fatty chains that may be indicated
include the products Quatrisoft LM 200, Quatrisoft LM-X529-18-A,
Quatrisoft LM-X529-18B (C.sub.12 alkyl) and Quatrisoft LM-X529-8
(C.sub.18 alkyl) sold by the company Amerchol and the products
Crodacel QM, Crodacel QL (C.sub.12 alkyl) and Crodacel QS (C.sub.18
alkyl) sold by the company Croda.
[0488] Examples of polyacrylates bearing amino side chains that may
be mentioned are the polymers 8781-121B or 9492-103 from the
company National Starch.
[0489] Nonionic Associative Polymers
[0490] The nonionic associative polymers may be chosen from:
[0491] celluloses modified with groups comprising at least one
fatty chain, for instance hydroxyethylcelluloses modified with
groups comprising at least one fatty chain, such as alkyl groups,
especially of C.sub.8-C.sub.22, arylalkyl and alkylaryl groups,
such as Natrosol Plus Grade 330 CS (C.sub.16 alkyls) sold by the
company Aqualon,
[0492] celluloses modified with alkylphenyl polyalkylene glycol
ether groups, such as the product Amercell Polymer HM1500
(nonylphenyl polyethylene glycol (15) ether) sold by the company
Amerchol,
[0493] guars such as hydroxypropyl guar, modified with groups
comprising at least one fatty chain such as an alkyl chain,
[0494] copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and of fatty-chain
hydrophobic monomers,
[0495] copolymers of C.sub.1-C.sub.6 alkyl methacrylates or
acrylates and of amphiphilic monomers comprising at least one fatty
chain,
[0496] copolymers of hydrophilic methacrylates or acrylates and of
hydrophobic monomers comprising at least one fatty chain, for
instance the polyethylene glycol methacrylate/lauryl methacrylate
copolymer,
[0497] associative polyurethanes.
[0498] Associative polyurethanes are nonionic block copolymers
comprising in the chain both hydrophilic blocks usually of
polyoxyethylene nature (referred to as polyurethane polyethers),
and hydrophobic blocks that may be aliphatic sequences alone and/or
cycloaliphatic and/or aromatic sequences.
[0499] In particular, these polymers comprise at least two
hydrocarbon-based lipophilic chains containing from 6 to 30 carbon
atoms, separated by a hydrophilic block, the hydrocarbon-based
chains possibly being pendent chains or chains at the end of the
hydrophilic block. In particular, it is possible for one or more
pendent chains to be included. In addition, the polymer may
comprise a hydrocarbon-based chain at one end or at both ends of a
hydrophilic block.
[0500] Associative polyurethanes may be block polymers, in triblock
or multiblock form. The hydrophobic blocks may thus be at each end
of the chain (for example: triblock copolymer containing a
hydrophilic central block) or distributed both at the ends and in
the chain (for example: multiblock copolymer). The polymers may
also be graft polymers or star polymers. Preferably, the
associative polyurethanes are triblock copolymers in which the
hydrophilic block is a polyoxyethylene chain comprising from 50 to
1000 oxyethylene groups. In general, associative polyurethanes
comprise a urethane bond between the hydrophilic blocks, whence
arises the name.
[0501] According to one preferred embodiment, a nonionic
associative polymer of polyurethane type is used as gelling
agent.
[0502] By way of example of polyurethane polyethers that may not be
used in the invention, mention may be made of the polymer
C.sub.16-OE.sub.120-C.sub.16 from the company Servo Delden (under
the name SER AD FX1100, which is a molecule containing a urethane
function and having a weight-average molecular weight of 1300), OE
being an oxyethylene unit.
[0503] Rheolate 205 bearing a urea function, sold by the company
Rheox, or Rheolate 208 or 204, or alternatively Rheolate FX 1100 by
Elementis, may also be used as associative polyurethane polymer.
These associative polyurethanes are sold in pure form. The product
DW 1206B from Rohm & Haas containing a C.sub.20 alkyl chain and
a urethane bond, sold at a solids content of 20% in water, may also
be used.
[0504] It is also possible to use solutions or dispersions of these
polymers, especially in water or in aqueous-alcoholic medium.
Examples of such polymers that may be mentioned include SER AD
FX1010, SER AD FX1035 and SER AD FX1070 from the company Servo
Delden, and Rheolate 255, Rheolate 278 and Rheolate 244 sold by the
company Rheox. It is also possible to use the products Aculyn 46,
DW 1206F and DW 1206J, and also Acrysol RM 184 or Acrysol 44 from
the company Rohm & Haas, or alternatively Borchigel LW 44 from
the company Borchers, and mixtures thereof.
[0505] According to one preferred embodiment, the hydrophilic
gelling agent is chosen from:
[0506] optionally modified hydroxypropyl guar, in particular
hydroxypropyl guar modified with sodium methylcarboxylate groups
(Jaguar XC97-1, Rhodia) or hydroxypropyltrimethylammonium guar
chloride,
[0507] vinyl polymers, such as polyvinyl alcohol,
[0508] anionic associative polymers derived from (meth)acrylic
acid, such as the non-crosslinked copolymer obtained from
methacrylic acid and steareth-20 methacrylate, sold under the name
Aculyn 22 by Rohm & Haas,
[0509] nonionic associative polymers of polyurethane polyether
type, such as Steareth-100/PEG-136/HDI Copolymer sold under the
name Rheolate FX 1100 by Elementis.
[0510] According to another preferred variant, the hydrophilic
gelling agent is chosen from:
[0511] optionally modified hydroxypropyl guar, in particular
hydroxypropyl guar modified with sodium methylcarboxylate groups
(Jaguar XC97-1, Rhodia) or hydroxypropyltrimethylammonium guar
chloride,
[0512] anionic associative polymers derived from (meth)acrylic
acid, such as the non-crosslinked copolymer obtained from
methacrylic acid and steareth-20 methacrylate, sold under the name
Aculyn 22 by Rohm & Haas,
[0513] nonionic associative polymers of polyurethane polyether
type, such as Steareth-100/PEG-136/HDI Copolymer sold under the
name Rheolate FX 1100 by Elementis.
[0514] Amphoteric Associative Polymers
[0515] Among the associative amphoteric polymers of the invention,
mention may be made of crosslinked or non-crosslinked, branched or
unbranched amphoteric polymers, which may be obtained by
copolymerization
[0516] 1) of at least one monomer of formula (IVa) or (IVb):
##STR00011##
[0517] in which R.sub.4 and R.sub.5, which may be identical or
different, represent a hydrogen atom or a methyl radical,
[0518] R.sub.6, R.sub.7 and R.sub.8, which may be identical or
different, represent a linear or branched alkyl radical containing
from 1 to 30 carbon atoms,
[0519] Z represents a group NH or an oxygen atom,
[0520] n is an integer from 2 to 5,
[0521] A.sup.- denotes an anion derived from a mineral or organic
acid, such as a methosulfate anion or a halide such as chloride or
bromide.
##STR00012##
[0522] in which R.sub.9 and R.sub.10, which may be identical or
different, represent a hydrogen atom or a methyl radical;
[0523] Z.sub.1 represents a group OH or a group
NHC(CH.sub.3).sub.2CH.sub.2SO.sub.3H;
[0524] 3) of at least one monomer of formula (VI):
##STR00013##
[0525] in which R.sub.9 and R.sub.10, which may be identical or
different, represent a hydrogen atom or a methyl radical, X denotes
an oxygen or nitrogen atom and R.sub.11 denotes a linear or
branched alkyl radical containing from 1 to 30 carbon atoms;
[0526] 4) optionally at least one crosslinking or branching agent;
at least one of the monomers of formula (IVa), (IVb) or (VI)
comprising at least one fatty chain containing from 8 to 30 carbon
atoms and said compounds of the monomers of formulae (IVa), (IVb),
(V) and (VI) possibly being quaternized, for example with a
C.sub.1-C.sub.4 alkyl halide or a C.sub.1-C.sub.4 dialkyl
sulfate.
[0527] The monomers of formulae (IVa) and (IVb) of the present
invention are preferably chosen from the group formed by:
[0528] dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate, dimethylaminoethyl
acrylate,
[0529] diethylaminoethyl methacrylate, diethylaminoethyl
acrylate,
[0530] dimethylaminopropyl methacrylate, dimethylaminopropyl
acrylate,
[0531] dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide or
dimethylaminopropylacrylamide, optionally quaternized, for example
with a C.sub.1-C.sub.4 alkyl halide or a C.sub.1-C.sub.4 dialkyl
sulfate.
[0532] More particularly, the monomer of formula (IVa) is chosen
from acrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride and
methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride.
[0533] The compounds of formula (V) of the present invention are
preferably chosen from the group formed by acrylic acid,
methacrylic acid, crotonic acid, 2-methylcrotonic acid,
2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid and
2-methacrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid. More particularly,
the monomer of formula (V) is acrylic acid.
[0534] The monomers of formula (VI) of the present invention are
preferably chosen from the group formed by C.sub.12-C.sub.22 and
more particularly C.sub.16-C.sub.18 alkyl acrylates or
methacrylates.
[0535] The crosslinking or branching agent is preferably chosen
from N,N'-methylenebisacrylamide, triallylmethylammonium chloride,
allyl methacrylate, n-methylolacrylamide, polyethylene glycol
dimethacrylates, ethylene glycol dimethacrylate, diethylene glycol
dimethacrylate, 1,6-hexanediol dimethacrylate and allyl
sucrose.
[0536] The polymers according to the invention may also contain
other monomers such as nonionic monomers and in particular
C.sub.1-C.sub.4 alkyl acrylates or methacrylates.
[0537] The ratio of the number of cationic charges/anionic charges
in these amphoteric polymers is preferably equal to about 1.
[0538] The weight-average molecular weights of the associative
amphoteric polymers represents a weight-average molecular mass of
greater than 500, preferably between 10 000 and 10 000 000 and even
more preferentially between 100 000 and 8 000 000.
[0539] Preferably, the associative amphoteric polymers of the
invention contain from 1 mol % to 99 mol %, more preferentially
from 20 mol % to 95 mol % and even more preferentially from 25 mol
% to 75 mol % of compound(s) of formula (IVa) or (IVb). They also
preferably contain from 1 mol % to 80 mol %, more preferentially
from 5 mol % to 80 mol % and even more preferentially from 25 mol %
to 75 mol % of compound(s) of formula (V). The content of
compound(s) of formula (VI) is preferably between 0.1 mol % and 70
mol %, more preferentially between 1 mol % and 50 mol % and even
more preferentially between 1 mol % and 10 mol %. The crosslinking
or branching agent, when it is present, is preferably between
0.0001 mol % and 1 mol % and even more preferentially between
0.0001 mol % and 0.1 mol %.
[0540] Preferably, the mole ratio between the compound(s) of
formula (IVa) or (IVb) and the compound(s) of formula (V) ranges
from 20/80 to 95/5 and more preferentially from 25/75 to 75/25.
[0541] The associative amphoteric polymers according to the
invention are described, for example, in patent application WO
98/44012.
[0542] The amphoteric polymers that are particularly preferred
according to the invention are chosen from acrylic
acid/acrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride/stearyl
methacrylate copolymers.
[0543] The gelling polymer(s) for the aqueous phase, and in
particular the associative polymers, may be present in the
composition according to the invention in a total active material
content ranging from 0.1% to 10% and preferably from 0.5% to 5% by
weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0544] It is understood that this amount is moreover liable to vary
depending on whether said polymer is or is not combined with an
ionic and/or nonionic surfactant and/or a film-forming agent (other
than alkylcellulose and in particular ethylcellulose), which are
themselves also capable of acting on the consistency of said
composition.
[0545] Silicone Gum
[0546] According to one particular embodiment, a composition of the
invention may also comprise at least one silicone gum, preferably
with a viscosity of between 800 000 and 10 000 000 cSt at
25.degree. C.
[0547] Preferably, the silicone gum is chosen from silicone gums
with a viscosity at 25.degree. C. of between 1 000 000 and 5 000
000 cSt and preferably between 1 000 000 and 2 500 000 cSt. The
viscosity of this silicone compound may be measured according to
standard ASTM D-445.
[0548] The molecular mass of the silicone gums is generally greater
than 350 000 g/mol, between 350 000 and 800 000 g/mol and
preferably from 450 000 to 700 000 g/mol.
[0549] The silicone gum may be chosen especially from the silicones
of formula:
##STR00014##
[0550] in which:
[0551] R.sub.1, R.sub.2, R.sub.5 and R.sub.6 are, together or
separately, an alkyl radical containing 1 to 6 carbon atoms,
[0552] R.sub.3 and R.sub.4 are, together or separately, an alkyl
radical containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, a vinyl radical, an
amine radical or a hydroxyl radical,
[0553] X is an alkyl radical containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, a
hydroxyl radical or an amine radical,
[0554] n and p being integers chosen such that the viscosity of the
compound is greater than 800 000 cSt.
[0555] As silicone gums that may be used according to the
invention, mention may be made of those for which:
[0556] the substituents R.sub.1 to R.sub.6 represent a methyl
group, the group X represents a methoxy group, and n and p are such
that the molecular weight of the polymer is 600 000 g/mol, such as
the product sold under the name Mirasil C-DPDM by the company
Bluestar;
[0557] the substituents R.sub.1 to R.sub.6 represent a methyl
group, the group X represents a hydroxyl group, and n and p are
such that the molecular weight of the polymer is 600 000 g/mol,
such as the product sold under the name SGM 36 by the company Dow
Corning;
[0558] dimethicones of the (polydimethylsiloxane)
(methylvinylsiloxane) type, such as SE63 sold by GE Bayer
Silicones, poly(dimethylsiloxane)(diphenyl)(methylvinylsiloxane)
copolymers, and mixtures thereof.
[0559] Advantageously, a composition according to the invention may
comprise from 0.1% to 20% by weight of silicone gum(s) according to
the invention relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0560] In particular, it may comprise from 0.2% to 15% by weight of
silicone gum(s) according to the invention relative to the total
weight of the composition.
[0561] Advantageously, a composition according to the invention
comprises at least one silicone gum and at least one alkylcellulose
polymer in a silicone gum(s)/alkylcellulose polymer weight ratio of
between 0.1 and 15 and more particularly from 0.5 to 10.
Preferably, the silicone gum(s)/alkylcellulose polymer weight ratio
is between 0.5 and 5.
[0562] According to one particular embodiment, a composition of the
invention comprises:
[0563] between 4% and 30% by weight of alkylcellulose, preferably
ethylcellulose,
[0564] between 15% and 50% by weight of water,
[0565] between 45% and 75% by weight of nonvolatile oils, and
[0566] between 0.5% and 12% of silicone gum.
[0567] Organopolysiloxane Elastomer
[0568] According to another particular embodiment, a composition
according to the invention comprises at least one
organopolysiloxane elastomer.
[0569] These particular elastomers, when present in a composition
according to the invention, make it possible to obtain non-tacky
and comfort properties (suppleness of the deposit) for the deposits
formed on the lips or the skin from compositions comprising
them.
[0570] The term "organopolysiloxane elastomer" means a supple,
deformable organopolysiloxane with viscoelastic properties and
especially the consistency of a sponge or a supple sphere. Its
modulus of elasticity is such that this material withstands
deformation and has limited stretchability and contractability.
This material is capable of regaining its original shape after
stretching.
[0571] It is more particularly a crosslinked organopolysiloxane
elastomer.
[0572] Thus, the organopolysiloxane elastomer may be obtained by
crosslinking addition reaction of diorganopolysiloxane containing
at least one hydrogen bonded to silicon and of diorganopolysiloxane
containing ethylenically unsaturated groups bonded to silicon,
especially in the presence of a platinum catalyst; or by
dehydrogenation crosslinking condensation reaction between a
diorganopolysiloxane containing hydroxyl end groups and a
diorganopolysiloxane containing at least one hydrogen bonded to
silicon, especially in the presence of an organotin; or by
crosslinking condensation reaction of a diorganopolysiloxane
containing hydroxyl end groups and of a hydrolyzable
organopolysilane; or by thermal crosslinking of organopolysiloxane,
especially in the presence of an organoperoxide catalyst; or by
crosslinking of organopolysiloxane via high-energy radiation such
as gamma rays, ultraviolet rays or an electron beam.
[0573] Preferably, the organopolysiloxane elastomer is obtained by
crosslinking addition reaction (A) of diorganopolysiloxane
containing at least two hydrogens each bonded to a silicon, and (B)
of diorganopolysiloxane containing at least two ethylenically
unsaturated groups bonded to silicon, especially in the presence
(C) of a platinum catalyst, as described, for instance, in patent
application EP-A-295 886.
[0574] In particular, the organopolysiloxane elastomer may be
obtained by reaction of a dimethylpolysiloxane with
dimethylvinylsiloxy end groups and of methylhydrogenopolysiloxane
with trimethylsiloxy end groups, in the presence of a platinum
catalyst.
[0575] Compound (A) is the base compound for the formation of
organopolysiloxane elastomer, and the crosslinking is performed by
addition reaction of compound (A) with compound (B) in the presence
of the catalyst (C).
[0576] Compound (A) is in particular an organopolysiloxane
containing at least two hydrogen atoms bonded to different silicon
atoms in each molecule.
[0577] Compound (A) may have any molecular structure, especially a
linear-chain or branched-chain structure or a cyclic structure.
[0578] Compound (A) may have a viscosity at 25.degree. C. ranging
from 1 to 50 000 centistokes, especially so as to be miscible with
compound (B).
[0579] The organic groups bonded to the silicon atoms of compound
(A) may be alkyl groups such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl,
octyl; substituted alkyl groups such as 2-phenylethyl,
2-phenylpropyl or 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl; aryl groups such as
phenyl, tolyl, xylyl; substituted aryl groups such as phenylethyl;
and substituted monovalent hydrocarbon-based groups such as an
epoxy group, a carboxylate ester group or a mercapto group.
[0580] Compound (A) may thus be chosen from
methylhydrogenopolysiloxanes containing trimethylsiloxy end groups,
dimethylsiloxane-methylhydrogenosiloxane copolymers containing
trimethylsiloxy end groups, and
dimethylsiloxane-methylhydrogenosiloxane cyclic copolymers.
[0581] Compound (B) is advantageously a diorganopolysiloxane
containing at least two lower alkenyl groups (for example
C.sub.2-C.sub.4); the lower alkenyl group may be chosen from vinyl,
allyl and propenyl groups. These lower alkenyl groups may be
located in any position of the organopolysiloxane molecule, but are
preferably located at the ends of the organopolysiloxane molecule.
The organopolysiloxane (B) may have a branched-chain, linear-chain,
cyclic or network structure, but the linear-chain structure is
preferred. Compound (B) may have a viscosity ranging from the
liquid state to the gum state. Preferably, compound (B) has a
viscosity of at least 100 centistokes at 25.degree. C.
[0582] Besides the abovementioned alkenyl groups, the other organic
groups bonded to the silicon atoms in compound (B) may be alkyl
groups such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl or octyl; substituted
alkyl groups such as 2-phenylethyl, 2-phenylpropyl or
3,3,3-trifluoropropyl; aryl groups such as phenyl, tolyl or xylyl;
substituted aryl groups such as phenylethyl; and substituted
monovalent hydrocarbon-based groups such as an epoxy group, a
carboxylate ester group or a mercapto group.
[0583] The organopolysiloxanes (B) may be chosen from
methylvinylpolysiloxanes, methylvinylsiloxane-dimethylsiloxane
copolymers, dimethylpolysiloxanes containing dimethylvinylsiloxy
end groups, dimethylsiloxane-methylphenylsiloxane copolymers
containing dimethylvinylsiloxy end groups,
dimethylsiloxane-diphenylsiloxane-methylvinylsiloxane copolymers
containing dimethylvinylsiloxy end groups,
dimethylsiloxane-methylvinylsiloxane copolymers containing
trimethylsiloxy end groups,
dimethylsiloxane-methylphenylsiloxane-methylvinylsiloxane
copolymers containing trimethylsiloxy end groups,
methyl(3,3,3-trifluoropropyl)polysiloxanes containing
dimethylvinylsiloxy end groups, and
dimethylsiloxane-methyl(3,3,3-trifluoropropyl)siloxane copolymers
containing dimethylvinylsiloxy end groups.
[0584] In particular, the organopolysiloxane elastomer may be
obtained by reaction of a dimethyl polysiloxane containing
dimethylvinylsiloxy end groups and of methylhydrogenopolysiloxane
containing trimethylsiloxy end groups, in the presence of a
platinum catalyst.
[0585] Advantageously, the sum of the number of ethylenic groups
per molecule in compound (B) and of the number of hydrogen atoms
bonded to silicon atoms per molecule in compound (A) is at least
5.
[0586] It is advantageous for compound (A) to be added in an amount
such that the molecular ratio between the total amount of hydrogen
atoms bonded to silicon atoms in compound (A) and the total amount
of all the ethylenically unsaturated groups in compound (B) is
within the range from 1.5/1 to 20/1.
[0587] Compound (C) is the catalyst for the crosslinking reaction,
and is especially chloroplatinic acid, chloroplatinic acid-olefin
complexes, chloroplatinic acid-alkenylsiloxane complexes,
chloroplatinic acid-diketone complexes, platinum black and platinum
on a support.
[0588] The catalyst (C) is preferably added in an amount of from
0.1 to 1000 parts by weight and better still from 1 to 100 parts by
weight, as clean platinum metal, per 1000 parts by weight of the
total amount of compounds (A) and (B).
[0589] The elastomer is advantageously a non-emulsifying
elastomer.
[0590] The term "non-emulsifying" defines organopolysiloxane
elastomers not containing any hydrophilic chains, and in particular
not containing any polyoxyalkylene units (especially
polyoxyethylene or polyoxypropylene) or any polyglyceryl units.
[0591] The organopolysiloxane elastomer particles are conveyed in
the form of a gel formed from an elastomeric organopolysiloxane
included in at least one hydrocarbon-based oil and/or one silicone
oil. In these gels, the organopolysiloxane particles are often
nonspherical particles.
[0592] Non-emulsifying elastomers are especially described in
patents EP 242 219, EP 285 886 and EP 765 656 and in patent
application JP-A-61-194 009, the content of which is incorporated
by way of reference.
[0593] Non-emulsifying elastomers that may be used more
particularly include those sold under the names KSG-6, KSG-15,
KSG-16, KSG-18, KSG-41, KSG-42, KSG-43 and KSG-44 by the company
Shin-Etsu, DC9040 and DC9041 by the company Dow Corning, and SFE
839 by the company General Electric.
[0594] Spherical non-emulsifying elastomers that may be used
include those sold under the names DC 9040, DC 9041, DC 9509, DC
9505 and DC 9506 by the company Dow Corning.
[0595] The elastomer may also be an emulsifying elastomer.
[0596] The term "emulsifying organopolysiloxane elastomer" means an
organopolysiloxane elastomer comprising at least one hydrophilic
chain, such as polyoxyalkylenated organopolysiloxane elastomers and
polyglycerolated silicone elastomers.
[0597] The emulsifying organopolysiloxane elastomer may be chosen
from polyoxyalkylenated organopolysiloxane elastomers.
[0598] The polyoxyalkylenated organopolysiloxane elastomer is a
crosslinked organopolysiloxane elastomer that may be obtained by
crosslinking addition reaction of diorganopolysiloxane containing
at least one hydrogen bonded to silicon and of a polyoxyalkylene
containing at least two ethylenically unsaturated groups.
[0599] Preferably, the organopolysiloxane elastomer is obtained by
crosslinking addition reaction (A1) of diorganopolysiloxane
containing at least two hydrogens each bonded to a silicon, and
(B1) of polyoxyalkylene containing at least two ethylenically
unsaturated groups, especially in the presence (C1) of a platinum
catalyst, as described, for instance, in patents U.S. Pat. Nos. 5
236 986 and 5 412 004.
[0600] In particular, the organopolysiloxane may be obtained by
reaction of polyoxyalkylene (especially polyoxyethylene and/or
polyoxypropylene) with dimethylvinylsiloxy end groups and of
methylhydrogenopolysiloxane with trimethylsiloxy end groups, in the
presence of a platinum catalyst.
[0601] The organic groups bonded to the silicon atoms of compound
(A1) may be alkyl groups containing from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, such
as methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl, octyl, decyl, dodecyl (or lauryl),
myristyl, cetyl or stearyl; substituted alkyl groups such as
2-phenylethyl, 2-phenylpropyl or 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl; aryl groups
such as phenylethyl; and substituted monovalent hydrocarbon-based
groups such as an epoxy group, a carboxylate ester group or a
mercapto group.
[0602] Compound (A1) may thus be chosen from
methylhydrogenopolysiloxanes containing trimethylsiloxy end groups,
dimethylsiloxane-methylhydrogenosiloxane copolymers containing
trimethylsiloxy end groups,
dimethylsiloxane-methylhydrogenosiloxane cyclic copolymers,
dimethylsiloxane-methylhydrogenosiloxane-laurylmethylsiloxane
copolymers containing trimethylsiloxy end groups.
[0603] Compound (C1) is the catalyst for the crosslinking reaction,
and is especially chloroplatinic acid, chloroplatinic acid-olefin
complexes, chloroplatinic acid-alkenylsiloxane complexes,
chloroplatinic acid-diketone complexes, platinum black and platinum
on a support.
[0604] Advantageously, the polyoxyalkylenated organopolysiloxane
elastomers may be formed from divinyl compounds, in particular
polyoxyalkylenes containing at least two vinyl groups, which react
with Si--H bonds of a polysiloxane.
[0605] Polyoxyalkylenated elastomers are especially described in
patents U.S. Pat. Nos. 5,236,986, 5,412,004, 5,837,793 and
5,811,487, the content of which is incorporated by reference.
[0606] Polyoxyalkylenated organopolysiloxane elastomers that may be
used include those sold under the names KSG-21, KSG-20, KSG-30,
KSG-31, KSG-32, KSG-33, KSG-210, KSG-310, KSG-320, KSG-330 and
KSG-340 by the company Shin-Etsu, and DC9010 and DC9011 by the
company Dow Corning.
[0607] The emulsifying organopolysiloxane elastomer may also be
chosen from polyglycerolated organopolysiloxane elastomers.
[0608] The polyglycerolated organopolysiloxane elastomer according
to the invention is an organopolysiloxane elastomer that may be
obtained by crosslinking addition reaction of diorganopolysiloxane
containing at least one hydrogen bonded to silicon and of
polyglycerolated compounds containing ethylenically unsaturated
groups, especially in the presence of a platinum catalyst.
[0609] Preferably, the organopolysiloxane elastomer is obtained by
crosslinking addition reaction (A2) of diorganopolysiloxane
containing at least two hydrogens each bonded to a silicon, and
(B2) of glycerolated compounds containing at least two
ethylenically unsaturated groups, especially in the presence (C2)
of a platinum catalyst.
[0610] In particular, the organopolysiloxane may be obtained by
reaction of a polyglycerolated compound with dimethylvinylsiloxy
end groups and of methylhydrogenopolysiloxane with trimethylsiloxy
end groups, in the presence of a platinum catalyst.
[0611] Compound (A2) is the base reagent for the formation of an
organopolysiloxane elastomer, and the crosslinking is performed by
addition reaction of compound (A2) with compound (B2) in the
presence of the catalyst (C2).
[0612] Compound (A2) is in particular an organopolysiloxane
containing at least two hydrogen atoms bonded to different silicon
atoms in each molecule.
[0613] Compound (A2) may have any molecular structure, especially a
linear-chain or branched-chain structure or a cyclic structure.
[0614] Compound (A2) may have a viscosity at 25.degree. C. ranging
from 1 to 50 000 centistokes, especially so as to be miscible with
compound (B2).
[0615] The organic groups bonded to the silicon atoms in compound
(A2) may be alkyl groups containing from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, such
as methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl, octyl, decyl, dodecyl (or lauryl),
myristyl, cetyl or stearyl; substituted alkyl groups such as
2-phenylethyl, 2-phenylpropyl or 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl; aryl groups
such as phenyl, tolyl or xylyl; substituted aryl groups such as
phenylethyl; and substituted monovalent hydrocarbon-based groups
such as an epoxy group, a carboxylate ester group or a mercapto
group. Preferably, said organic group is chosen from methyl, phenyl
and lauryl groups.
[0616] Compound (A2) may thus be chosen from
methylhydrogenopolysiloxanes containing trimethylsiloxy end groups,
dimethylsiloxane-methylhydrogenosiloxane copolymers containing
trimethylsiloxy end groups,
dimethylsiloxane-methylhydrogenosiloxane cyclic copolymers and
dimethylsiloxane-methylhydrogenosiloxane-laurylmethylsiloxane
copolymers containing trimethylsiloxy end groups.
[0617] Compound (B2) may be a polyglycerolated compound
corresponding to formula (B') below:
C.sub.mH.sub.2m-1--O-[Gly].sub.n-C.sub.mH.sub.2m-1 (B')
[0618] in which m is an integer ranging from 2 to 6, n is an
integer ranging from 2 to 200, preferably from 2 to 100, preferably
ranging from 2 to 50, preferably ranging from 2 to 20, preferably
ranging from 2 to 10 and preferentially ranging from 2 to 5, and in
particular n is equal to 3; Gly denotes:
--CH.sub.2--CH(OH)--CH.sub.2--O-- or
--CH.sub.2--CH(CH.sub.2OH)--O--
[0619] Advantageously, the sum of the number of ethylenic groups
per molecule in compound (B2) and of the number of hydrogen atoms
bonded to silicon atoms per molecule in compound (A2) is at least
4.
[0620] It is advantageous for compound (A2) to be added in an
amount such that the molecular ratio between the total amount of
hydrogen atoms bonded to silicon atoms in compound (A2) and the
total amount of all the ethylenically unsaturated groups in
compound (B2) is within the range from 1/1 to 20/1.
[0621] Compound (C2) is the catalyst for the crosslinking reaction,
and is especially chloroplatinic acid, chloroplatinic acid-olefin
complexes, chloroplatinic acid-alkenylsiloxane complexes,
chloroplatinic acid-diketone complexes, platinum black and platinum
on a support.
[0622] The catalyst (C2) is preferably added in an amount of from
0.1 to 1000 parts by weight and better still from 1 to 100 parts by
weight, as clean platinum metal, per 1000 parts by weight of the
total amount of compounds (A2) and (B2).
[0623] The polyglycerolated organopolysiloxane elastomer according
to the invention is conveyed in gel form in at least one
hydrocarbon-based oil and/or one silicone oil. In these gels, the
polyglycerolated elastomer is often in the form of nonspherical
particles.
[0624] Polyglycerolated organopolysiloxane elastomers that may be
used include those sold under the names KSG-710, KSG-810, KSG-820,
KSG-830 and KSG-840 by the company Shin-Etsu.
[0625] Advantageously, the organopolysiloxane elastomer under
consideration according to the invention is chosen from spherical
non-emulsifying organopolysiloxane elastomers, polyglycerolated
organopolysiloxane elastomers and polyoxyalkylenated
organopolysiloxane elastomers.
[0626] Emulsifying elastomers that may be used more particularly
include those sold under the names KSG-31, KSG-32, KSG-33, KSG-210
and KSG-710 by the company Shin-Etsu.
[0627] Non-emulsifying elastomers that may be used more
particularly include those sold under the names KSG-6, KSG-15,
KSG-16, KSG-18, KSG-41, KSG-42, KSG-43 and KSG-44 by the company
Shin-Etsu, DC9040 and DC9041 by the company Dow Corning, and SFE
839 by the company General Electric.
[0628] Preferably, the silicone elastomer is non-emulsifying, for
example in the case of lipstick compositions, and in particular in
the case of anhydrous compositions.
[0629] The composition according to the invention may comprise an
organopolysiloxane elastomer, alone or as a mixture, in a content
ranging from 0.1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.2% to 15% by
weight and even more preferably from 0.5% to 12% by weight.
[0630] It is understood that, in the context of the present
invention, the weight percentages of a compound are always
expressed as weight of solids of the compound in question.
[0631] Advantageously, the alkylcellulose polymer according to the
invention and the organopolysiloxane elastomer are used in an
organopolysiloxane elastomer(s)/alkylcellulose weight ratio ranging
from 0.1 to 15 and more particularly from 0.5 to 10. Preferably,
the organopolysiloxane elastomer(s)/alkylcellulose weight ratio is
between 0.5 and 5.
[0632] As stated above, the elastomer is generally used with a
fatty phase.
[0633] According to one particular embodiment, a composition of the
invention comprises:
[0634] between 4% and 30% by weight of alkylcellulose, preferably
ethylcellulose,
[0635] between 15% and 50% by weight of water,
[0636] between 45% and 75% by weight of nonvolatile oils, and
[0637] between 0.5% and 12% of organopolysiloxane elastomer(s).
[0638] Silicone Resin
[0639] According to another particular embodiment, a composition
according to the invention comprises at least one silicone
resin.
[0640] More generally, the term "resin" means a compound whose
structure is three-dimensional. "Silicone resins" are also referred
to as "siloxane resins". Thus, for the purposes of the present
invention, a polydimethylsiloxane is not a silicone resin.
[0641] The nomenclature of silicone resins (also known as siloxane
resins) is known under the name "MDTQ", the resin being described
as a function of the various siloxane monomer units it comprises,
each of the letters "MDTQ" characterizing a type of unit.
[0642] The letter M represents the monofunctional unit of formula
R1R2R3SiO.sub.1/2, the silicon atom being bonded to only one oxygen
atom in the polymer comprising this unit.
[0643] The letter D means a difunctional unit R1R2SiO.sub.2/2 in
which the silicon atom is bonded to two oxygen atoms.
[0644] The letter T represents a trifunctional unit of formula
R1SiO.sub.3/2.
[0645] Such resins are described, for example, in the Encyclopedia
of Polymer Science and Engineering, vol. 15, John Wiley & Sons,
New York, (1989), pp. 265-270, and U.S. Pat. Nos. 2,676,182,
3,627,851, 3,772,247, 5,248,739 or 5,082,706, 5,319,040, 5,302,685
and 4,935,484.
[0646] In the units M, D and T defined previously, R, namely R1 and
R2, represents a hydrocarbon-based radical (especially alkyl)
containing from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, a phenyl group, a phenylalkyl
group or a hydroxyl group.
[0647] Finally, the letter Q means a tetrafunctional unit
SiO.sub.4/2 in which the silicon atom is bonded to four hydrogen
atoms, which are themselves bonded to the rest of the polymer.
[0648] Various silicone resins with different properties may be
obtained from these different units, the properties of these
polymers varying as a function of the type of monomer (or unit),
the nature and number of the radical R, the length of the polymer
chain, the degree of branching and the size of the pendent
chains.
[0649] As silicone resins that may be used in the compositions
according to the invention, use may be made, for example, of
silicone resins of MQ type, of T type or of MQT type.
[0650] According to one preferred embodiment, an MQ resin is
used.
[0651] MQ Resins:
[0652] As examples of silicone resins of MQ type, mention may be
made of the alkyl siloxysilicates of formula
[(R1).sub.3SiO.sub.1/2].sub.x(SiO.sub.4/2).sub.y (MQ units) in
which x and y are integers ranging from 50 to 80, and such that the
group R1 represents a radical as defined previously, and is
preferably an alkyl group containing from 1 to 8 carbon atoms or a
hydroxyl group, preferably a methyl group.
[0653] As examples of solid silicone resins of MQ type of trimethyl
siloxysilicate type, mention may be made of those sold under the
reference SR1000 by the company General Electric, under the
reference TMS 803 by the company Wacker, or under the name KF-7312J
by the company Shin-Etsu or DC 749 or DC 593 by the company Dow
Corning.
[0654] As silicone resins comprising MQ siloxysilicate units,
mention may also be made of phenylalkylsiloxysilicate resins, such
as phenylpropyldimethylsiloxysilicate (Silshine 151 sold by the
company General Electric). The preparation of such resins is
described especially in patent U.S. Pat. No. 5,817,302.
[0655] T Resins:
[0656] Examples of silicone resins of type T that may be mentioned
include the polysilsesquioxanes of formula (RSiO.sub.3/2).sub.x
(units T) in which x is greater than 100 and such that the group R
is an alkyl group containing from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, said
polysilsesquioxanes also possibly comprising Si--OH end groups.
[0657] Polymethylsilsesquioxane resins that may preferably be used
are those in which R represents a methyl group, for instance those
sold:
[0658] by the company Wacker under the reference Resin MK, such as
Belsil PMS MK: polymer comprising CH.sub.3SiO.sub.3/2 repeating
units (units T), which may also comprise up to 1% by weight of
(CH.sub.3).sub.2SiO.sub.2/2 units (units D) and having an average
molecular weight of about 10 000 g/mol, or
[0659] by the company Shin-Etsu under the reference KR220L, which
are composed of units T of formula CH.sub.3SiO.sub.3/2 and have
Si-OH (silanol) end groups, under the reference KR242A, which
comprise 98% of units T and 2% of dimethyl units D and have Si--OH
end groups, or alternatively under the reference KR251 comprising
88% of units T and 12% of dimethyl units D and have Si--OH end
groups.
[0660] MQT Resins:
[0661] Resins comprising MQT units that are especially known are
those mentioned in document U.S. Pat. No. 5,110,890.
[0662] A preferred form of resins of MQT type are MQT-propyl (also
known as MQTpr) resins. Such resins that may be used in the
compositions according to the invention are especially the resins
described and prepared in patent application WO 2005/075 542, the
content of which is incorporated herein by reference.
[0663] The MQ-T-propyl resin preferably comprises the following
units:
[0664] (i) (R1.sub.3SiO.sub.1/2).sub.a
[0665] (ii) (R.sup.2.sub.2SiO.sub.2/2).sub.b
[0666] (iii) (R3SiO.sub.3/2).sub.c and
[0667] (iv) (SiO.sub.4/2).sub.d
[0668] with
[0669] R1, R2 and R3 independently representing a hydrocarbon-based
radical, especially alkyl, containing from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, a
phenyl group, a phenylalkyl group or a hydroxyl group and
preferably an alkyl radical containing from 1 to 8 carbon atoms or
a phenyl group,
[0670] a being between 0.05 and 0.5,
[0671] b being between 0 and 0.3,
[0672] c being greater than 0,
[0673] d being between 0.05 and 0.6,
[0674] a+b+c+d=1, and a, b, c and d being mole fractions,
[0675] on condition that more than 40 mol % of the groups R3 of the
siloxane resin are propyl groups.
[0676] Preferably, the siloxane resin comprises the following
units:
[0677] (i) (R.sup.1.sub.3SiO.sub.1/2).sub.a
[0678] (iii) (R3SiO.sub.3/2).sub.c and
[0679] (iv) (SiO.sub.4/2).sub.d
[0680] with
[0681] R1 and R3 independently representing an alkyl group
containing from 1 to 8 carbon atoms, R1 preferably being a methyl
group and R3 preferably being a propyl group,
[0682] a being between 0.05 and 0.5 and preferably between 0.15 and
0.4,
[0683] c being greater than zero, preferably between 0.15 and
0.4,
[0684] d being between 0.05 and 0.6, preferably between 0.2 and 0.6
or alternatively between 0.2 and 0.55,
[0685] a+b+c+d=1, and a, b, c and d being mole fractions,
[0686] on condition that more than 40 mol % of the groups R3 of the
siloxane resin are propyl groups.
[0687] The siloxane resins that may be used according to the
invention may be obtained via a process comprising the reaction
of:
[0688] A) an MQ resin comprising at least 80 mol % of units
(R1.sub.3SiO.sub.1/2).sub.a and (SiO.sub.4/2).sub.d,
[0689] R1 representing an alkyl group containing from 1 to 8 carbon
atoms, an aryl group, a carbinol group or an amino group,
[0690] a and d being greater than zero,
[0691] the ratio a/d being between 0.5 and 1.5;
[0692] and
[0693] B) a T-propyl resin comprising at least 80 mol % of units
(R.sup.3SiO.sub.3/2).sub.c,
[0694] R3 representing an alkyl group containing from 1 to 8 carbon
atoms, an aryl group, a carbinol group or an amino group,
[0695] c being greater than 0,
[0696] on condition that at least 40 mol % of the groups R3 are
propyl groups,
[0697] in which the mass ratio A/B is between 95/5 and 15/85 and
preferably the mass ratio A/B is 30/70.
[0698] Advantageously, the mass ratio A/B is between 95/5 and
15/85. Preferably, the ratio A/B is less than or equal to 70/30.
These preferred ratios have proven to allow comfortable deposits
due to the absence of percolation of the rigid particles of MQ
resin in the deposit.
[0699] Thus, preferably, the silicone resin is chosen from the
group comprising:
[0700] a) a resin of MQ type, chosen especially from (i) alkyl
siloxysilicates, which may be trimethyl siloxysilicates, of formula
.left brkt-top.(R1).sub.3SiO.sub.1/2.right
brkt-bot..sub.x(SiO.sub.4/2).sub.y, in which x and y are integers
ranging from 50 to 80, and such that the group R1 represents a
hydrocarbon-based radical containing from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, a
phenyl group, a phenylalkyl group or a hydroxyl group, and
preferably is an alkyl group containing from 1 to 8 carbon atoms,
preferably a methyl group, and (ii) phenylalkyl siloxysilicate
resins, such as phenylpropyldimethyl siloxysilicate, and/or
[0701] b) a resin of T type, chosen especially from the
polysilsesquioxanes of formula (RSiO.sub.3/2).sub.x, in which x is
greater than 100 and the group R is an alkyl group containing from
1 to 10 carbon atoms, for example a methyl group, said
polysilsesquioxanes also possibly comprising Si--OH end groups,
and/or
[0702] c) a resin of MQT type, especially of MQT-propyl type, which
may comprise units (i) (R.sup.1.sub.3SiO.sub.1/2).sub.a, (ii)
(R2.sub.2SiO.sub.2/2).sub.b, (iii) (R3SiO.sub.3/2).sub.c and (iv)
(SiO.sub.4/2).sub.d,
with R1, R2 and R3 independently representing a hydrocarbon-based
radical, especially alkyl, containing from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, a
phenyl group, a phenylalkyl group or a hydroxyl group and
preferably an alkyl radical containing from 1 to 8 carbon atoms or
a phenyl group,
[0703] a being between 0.05 and 0.5,
[0704] b being between 0 and 0.3,
[0705] c being greater than 0,
[0706] d being between 0.05 and 0.6,
[0707] a+b+c+d=1, and a, b, c and d being mole fractions,
[0708] on condition that more than 40 mol % of the groups R3 of the
siloxane resin are propyl groups.
[0709] Preferably, the silicone resin is present in the first
composition according to the invention in a total content of resin
solids ranging from 0.5% to 20% by weight and preferably ranging
from 1% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the
composition.
[0710] Advantageously, a composition according to the invention
comprises at least one silicone resin and at least one
alkylcellulose polymer in a silicone resin/alkylcellulose polymer
weight ratio of between 0.05 and 15 and more particularly from 0.1
to 10. Preferably, the silicone resin/alkylcellulose polymer weight
ratio is between 0.3 and 5.
[0711] According to one particular embodiment, a composition of the
invention comprises:
[0712] between 4% and 30% by weight of alkylcellulose, preferably
ethylcellulose,
[0713] between 15% and 50% by weight of water,
[0714] between 45% and 75% by weight of nonvolatile oils, and
[0715] between 1% and 10% of silicone resin.
[0716] Active Agents
[0717] The composition may also comprise at least one active agent
chosen from moisturizers, cicatrizing agents and/or antiaging
agents, for the skin and/or the lips, and in particular the
lips.
[0718] According to this embodiment, the invention also relates to
a process for caring for the skin and/or the lips, and in
particular the lips, comprising the application of a composition
according to the invention to the skin and/or the lips.
[0719] According to another of its aspects, the invention relates
to a lip balm (liquid or solid) or lipstick formed from a
composition according to the invention also comprising at least one
active agent chosen from moisturizers, cicatrizing agents and/or
antiaging agents.
[0720] Since the deposit made with a composition according to the
invention has a good level of wear property, this ensures the
remanence of the active agent on the skin and/or the lips and thus
improves the care efficacy (moisturizing, cicatrizing and/or
antiaging effect) on the skin and/or the lips.
[0721] Moisturizers
[0722] According to a first embodiment, the composition also
comprises at least one moisturizer (also known as a humectant).
[0723] Moisturizers or humectants that may especially be mentioned
include sorbitol, polyhydric alcohols, preferably of
C.sub.2-C.sub.8 and more preferably C.sub.3-C.sub.6, preferably
such as glycerol, propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol,
dipropylene glycol and diglycerol, and mixtures thereof, glycerol
and derivatives thereof, urea and derivatives thereof, especially
Hydrovance.RTM. (2-hydroxyethylurea) sold by National Starch,
lactic acids, hyaluronic acid, AHAs, BHAs, sodium pidolate,
xylitol, serine, sodium lactate, ectoin and derivatives thereof,
chitosan and derivatives thereof, collagen, plankton, an extract of
Imperata cylindra sold under the name Moist 24.RTM. by the company
Sederma, acrylic acid homopolymers, for instance Lipidure-HM.RTM.
from NOF Corporation, beta-glucan and in particular sodium
carboxymethyl beta-glucan from Mibelle-AG-Biochemistry; a mixture
of passionflower oil, apricot oil, corn oil and rice bran oil sold
by Nestle under the name NutraLipids.RTM.; a C-glycoside derivative
such as those described in patent application WO 02/051 828 and in
particular C-.beta.-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane in the form
of a solution containing 30% by weight of active material in a
water/propylene glycol mixture (60/40% by weight) such as the
product manufactured by Chimex under the trade name Mexoryl
SBB.RTM., an oil of musk rose sold by Nestle; an extract of the
microalga Prophyridium cruentum enriched with zinc, sold by
Vincience under the name Algualane Zinc.RTM.; spheres of collagen
and of chondroitin sulfate of marine origin (Atelocollagen) sold by
the company Engelhard Lyon under the name Marine Filling Spheres;
hyaluronic acid spheres such as those sold by the company Engelhard
Lyon; and arginine.
[0724] The moisturizer that will preferably be used is chosen from
glycerol, urea and derivatives thereof, especially Hydrovance.RTM.
sold by National Starch, hyaluronic acid, AHAs, BHAs, acrylic acid
homopolymers, for instance Lipidure-HM.RTM. from NOF Corporation,
beta-glucan and in particular sodium carboxymethyl beta-glucan from
Mibelle-AG-Biochemistry; a mixture of passionflower oil, apricot
oil, corn oil and rice bran oil sold by Nestle under the name
NutraLipids.RTM.; a C-glycoside derivative such as those described
in patent application WO 02/051 828 and in particular
C-.beta.-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane in the form of a
solution containing 30% by weight of active material in a
water/propylene glycol mixture (60/40% by weight) such as the
product manufactured by Chimex under the trade name Mexoryl
SBB.RTM., an oil of musk rose sold by Nestle; an extract of the
microalga Prophyridium cruentum enriched with zinc, sold by
Vincience under the name Algualane Zinc.RTM.; spheres of collagen
and of chondroitin sulfate of marine origin (Atelocollagen) sold by
the company Engelhard Lyon under the name Marine Filling Spheres;
hyaluronic acid spheres such as those sold by the company Engelhard
Lyon; and arginine.
[0725] Cicatrizing Agents
[0726] The active agent may also be chosen from cicatrizing
agents.
[0727] Examples of cicatrizing agents that may especially be
mentioned include:
[0728] allantoin, urea, certain amino acids, for instance
hydroxyproline, arginine, and serine, and also extracts of white
lily (for instance Phytelene Lys 37EG 16295 from Indena), a yeast
extract, for instance the cicatrizing agent LS LO/7225B from
Laboratoires Serobiologiques (Cognis), tamanu oil, extract of
Saccharomyces cerevisiae, for instance Biodynes.RTM. TRF.RTM. from
Arch Chemical, oat extracts, chitosan and derivatives, for instance
chitosan glutamate, carrot extracts, artemia extract, for instance
GP4G.RTM. from Vincience, sodium acexamate, lavandin extracts,
propolis extracts, ximeninic acid and salts thereof, rose hip oil,
marigold extracts, for instance Souci Ami.RTM. Liposolible from
Alban Muller, horsetail extracts, lemon peel extracts, for instance
Herbasol.RTM. citron from Cosmetochem, helichrysum extracts, common
yarrow extracts, folic acid, beta-glucan derivatives, shea butter
and purified fractions thereof, modified exopolysaccharides and
alkylsulfone polyaminosaccharides.
[0729] Antiaging Agents:
[0730] The active agent may also be chosen from antiaging agents,
i.e. agents especially having a restructuring effect on the skin
barrier, anti-glycation agents, active agents that stimulate the
energy metabolism of cells, and mixtures thereof.
[0731] The agent with a restructuring effect on the skin barrier
may be chosen from an extract of Thermus thermophilus such as
Venuceane.RTM. from Sederma, an extract of the rhizome of wild yam
(Dioscorea villosa) such as Actigen Y.RTM. from Active Organics,
plankton extracts, for instance Omega Plankton.RTM. from Secma,
yeast extracts, for instance Relipidium.RTM. from Coletica, a
chestnut extract such as Recoverine.RTM. from Silab, a cedar bud
extract such as Gatuline Zen.RTM. from Gattefosse, sphingosines,
for instance salicyloyl sphingosine sold under the name
Phytosphingosine.RTM. SLC by the company Degussa, a mixture of
xylitol, polyxylityl glycoside and xylitan, for instance
Aquaxyl.RTM. from SEPPIC, extracts of Solanacea plants, for
instance Lipidessence.RTM. from Coletica, and mixtures thereof.
[0732] Mention may also be made especially of ceramides,
sphingoid-based compounds, glycosphingolipids, phospholipids,
cholesterol and derivatives thereof, phytosterols, essential fatty
acids, diacylglycerol, 4-chromanone and chromone derivatives, and
mixtures thereof.
[0733] As preferred agents having a restructuring effect on the
skin barrier , mention will be made of an extract of Thermus
thermophilus, an extract of wild yam rhizome (Dioscorea villosa), a
yeast extract, a chestnut extract, a cedar bud extract, and
mixtures thereof.
[0734] The term "anti-glycation agent" means a compound that
prevents and/or reduces the glycation of skin proteins, in
particular dermal proteins such as collagen.
[0735] Examples of anti-glycation agents include extracts of plants
of the Ericacea family, such as an extract of blueberry (Vaccinium
angustifolium), for example the product sold under the name
Blueberry Herbasol Extract PG by the company Cosmetochem,
ergothioneine and derivatives thereof, hydroxystilbenes and
derivatives thereof, such as resveratrol and
3,3',5,5'-tetrahydroxystilbene (these anti-glycation agents are
described in patent applications FR 2 802 425, FR 2 810 548, FR 2
796 278 and FR 2 802 420, respectively), dihydroxystilbe