U.S. patent application number 16/176064 was filed with the patent office on 2020-04-30 for hair-coloring compositions, aerosol products, and methods for coloring hair.
The applicant listed for this patent is L'OREAL. Invention is credited to Sarah Barrie MACHOVER.
Application Number | 20200129388 16/176064 |
Document ID | / |
Family ID | 70327542 |
Filed Date | 2020-04-30 |
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United States Patent
Application |
20200129388 |
Kind Code |
A1 |
MACHOVER; Sarah Barrie |
April 30, 2020 |
HAIR-COLORING COMPOSITIONS, AEROSOL PRODUCTS, AND METHODS FOR
COLORING HAIR
Abstract
The present disclosure relates to hair-coloring compositions
comprising direct dyes, and aerosol hair-coloring products
comprising the hair-coloring compositions. The hair-coloring
compositions include: (a) at least one direct dye selected from
nitro-phenylenediamines, nitro-aminophenols, azo dyes,
anthraquinones, triarylmethane dyes, indophenols, and a mixture
thereof; (b) at least one nonionic film forming polymer; (c) at
least one thickening agent; (d) at least 40 wt. % of water, based
on the total weight of the compositions; and (e) 40 wt. % or less
of ethanol, based on the total weight of the composition. The
hair-coloring compositions can be combined with a propellant and
incorporated into a canister to provide a hair-coloring aerosol
product. The compositions and aerosol products are useful for
coloring hair.
Inventors: |
MACHOVER; Sarah Barrie; (New
York, NY) |
|
Applicant: |
Name |
City |
State |
Country |
Type |
L'OREAL |
Paris |
|
FR |
|
|
Family ID: |
70327542 |
Appl. No.: |
16/176064 |
Filed: |
October 31, 2018 |
Current U.S.
Class: |
1/1 |
Current CPC
Class: |
A61K 8/8152 20130101;
A61K 8/411 20130101; A61K 8/046 20130101; A61Q 5/10 20130101; A61K
8/8182 20130101; A61K 8/4946 20130101; A61K 2800/594 20130101; A61K
2800/4324 20130101; A61K 8/8176 20130101; A61K 8/33 20130101; A61K
8/4926 20130101; A61K 2800/87 20130101 |
International
Class: |
A61K 8/04 20060101
A61K008/04; A61Q 5/10 20060101 A61Q005/10; A61K 8/81 20060101
A61K008/81; A61K 8/33 20060101 A61K008/33; A61K 8/49 20060101
A61K008/49; A61K 8/41 20060101 A61K008/41 |
Claims
1. An aerosol hair-coloring product comprising a canister, the
canister comprising: a vapor phase comprising a propellant; and a
hair coloring juice phase comprising: (a) about 0.01 to about 15
wt. %, based on the total weight of the juice phase, of at least
one direct dye selected from nitro-phenylenediamines,
nitro-aminophenols, azo dyes, anthraquinones, triarylmethane dyes,
indophenols, and a mixture thereof; (b) about 0.1 to about 25 wt.
%, based on the total weight of the juice phase, of at least one
nonionic film forming polymer; (c) about 0.1 to about 10 wt. %,
based on the total weight of the juice phase, of at least one
thickening agent; (d) at least 40 wt. % of water, based on the
total weight of the juice phase; and (e) 40 wt. % or less of
ethanol, based on the total weight of the juice phase; wherein the
weight ratio of water to ethanol (water:ethanol) is about 1:1 to
about 5:1; and wherein the juice phase comprises volatile organic
compounds (VOC) in an amount of less than 55 wt. %, based on the
total weight of the juice phase.
2. The aerosol hair-coloring product of claim 1, wherein the total
amount of volatile organic compounds (VOC) is less than 35 wt. %,
based on the total weight of the juice phase.
3. The aerosol hair-coloring product of claim 1, wherein the at
least one nonionic film forming polymer is selected from:
polyalkyloxazolines; vinyl acetate homopolymers; vinyl acetate
copolymers; homopolymers and copolymers of acrylic esters;
copolymers of acrylonitrile and a nonionic monomer; styrene
homopolymers; styrene copolymers; polyamides; vinylpyrrolidone
homopolymers; copolymer of vinylpyrrolidone and vinyl acetate
monomers; vinyllactam homopolymers including and
polyvinylcaprolactam; and vinyllactam copolymers;
poly(vinylpyrrolidone/vinyl acetate/vinyl propionate) terpolymers;
and a mixture thereof.
4. The aerosol hair-coloring product of claim 1, wherein the at
least one nonionic film forming polymer is selected from VP/VA
copolymer (or PVP/VA copolymer), PVP, or a mixture thereof.
5. The aerosol hair-coloring product of claim 1, wherein the
thickening agent is a nonionic thickening agent selected from
polysaccharides, modified or unmodified starches, amylose,
amylopectin, glycogen, dextrans, celluloses, cellulose derivatives,
xylans, glucans, arabans, galactans, chitin, agars, locust bean
gums, mannans, and a mixture thereof.
6. The aerosol hair-coloring product of claim 1, wherein the
thickening agent is an anionic thickening agent selected from
polyacrylate-3, carbomers, acrylates/C10-30 alkyl acrylate
crosspolymers, acrylates/C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer,
AMP-acrylates/allyl methacrylate copolymer, polyacrylate
crosspolymer-6, a crosslinked methacrylic acid/ethyl acrylate
copolymer (acrylates copolymer), and a mixture thereof.
7. The aerosol hair-coloring product of claim 6 comprising
polyacrylate-3.
8. The aerosol hair-coloring product of claim 1 comprising about 50
to about 75 wt. % of water, based on the total weight of the juice
phase.
9. The aerosol hair-coloring product of claim 1 comprising about 10
to about 30 wt. % of ethanol, based on the total weight of the
juice phase.
10. The aerosol hair-coloring product of claim 1, wherein the ratio
of water to ethanol (water:ethanol) is about 2:1 to about 4:1.
11. The aerosol hair-coloring product of claim 1, wherein the
propellant is selected from the group consisting of dimethyl ether,
propane, n-butane, isobutene, and a mixture thereof.
12. The aerosol hair-coloring product of claim 1 that is free of
silicon powder, mica, titanium dioxide, iron oxide, bismuth
oxychloride, diatomaceous earth, and aluminum-clad epoxy resin.
13. An aerosol hair-coloring product comprising a canister, the
canister comprising: a vapor phase comprising a propellant; and a
hair coloring juice phase comprising: (a) about 0.01 to about 15
wt. %, based on the total weight of the juice phase, of at least
one direct dye selected from nitro-phenylenediamines,
nitro-aminophenols, azo dyes, anthraquinones, triarylmethane dyes,
indophenols, and a mixture thereof; (b) about 0.1 to about 25 wt.
%, based on the total weight of the juice phase, of at least one
nonionic film forming polymer selected from VP/VA copolymer (or
PVP/VA copolymer), PVP, or a mixture thereof; (c) about 0.1 to
about 10 wt. %, based on the total weight of the juice phase, of at
least one anionic thickening agent selected from polyacrylate-3,
carbomers, acrylates/C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymers,
acrylates/C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer, AMP-acrylates/allyl
methacrylate copolymer, polyacrylate crosspolymer-6, a crosslinked
methacrylic acid/ethyl acrylate copolymer (acrylates copolymer),
and a mixture thereof; (d) at least 50 wt. % of water, based on the
total weight of the juice phase; and (e) 30 wt. % or less of
ethanol, based on the total weight of the juice phase; wherein the
weight ratio of water to ethanol (water:ethanol) is about 2:1 to
about 4:1; and wherein the juice phase comprises volatile organic
compounds (VOC) in an amount of less than 35 wt. %, based on the
total weight of the juice phase.
14. A hair coloring composition comprising: (a) about 0.01 to about
15 wt. % of at least one direct dye selected from
nitro-phenylenediamines, nitro-aminophenols, azo dyes,
anthraquinones, triarylmethane dyes, indophenols, and a mixture
thereof; (b) about 0.1 to about 25 wt. % of at least one nonionic
film forming polymer; (c) about 0.1 to about 10 wt. % of at least
one thickening agent; (d) at least 40 wt. % of water; and (e) 40
wt. % or less of ethanol; wherein the weight ratio of water to
ethanol (water:ethanol) is about 1:1 to about 5:1; wherein the hair
coloring composition comprises volatile organic compounds (VOC) in
an amount of less than 55 wt. %; and all percentages by weight are
based on the total weight of the hair coloring composition.
15. The hair coloring composition of claim 14, wherein the at least
one nonionic film forming polymer is selected from:
polyalkyloxazolines; vinyl acetate homopolymers; vinyl acetate
copolymers; homopolymers and copolymers of acrylic esters;
copolymers of acrylonitrile and a nonionic monomer; styrene
homopolymers; styrene copolymers; polyamides; vinylpyrrolidone
homopolymers; copolymer of vinylpyrrolidone and vinyl acetate
monomers; vinyllactam homopolymers including and
polyvinylcaprolactam; and vinyllactam copolymers;
poly(vinylpyrrolidone/vinyl acetate/vinyl propionate) terpolymers;
and a mixture thereof.
16. The hair coloring composition of claim 14, wherein the at least
one nonionic film forming polymer is selected from VP/VA copolymer
(or PVP/VA copolymer), PVP, or a mixture thereof.
17. The hair coloring composition of claim 14, wherein the
thickening agent is a nonionic thickening agent selected from
olysaccharides, modified or unmodified starches, amylose,
amylopectin, glycogen, dextrans, celluloses, cellulose derivatives,
xylans, glucans, arabans, galactans, chitin, agars, locust bean
gums, mannans, and a mixture thereof.
18. The hair coloring composition of claim 14, wherein the
thickening agent is an anionic thickening agent selected from
polyacrylate-3, carbomers, acrylates/C10-30 alkyl acrylate
crosspolymers, acrylates/C10-alkyl acrylate crosspolymer,
AMP-acrylates/allyl methacrylate copolymer, polyacrylate
crosspolymer-6, a crosslinked methacrylic acid/ethyl acrylate
copolymer (acrylates copolymer), and a mixture thereof.
19. A method for coloring hair comprising: (i) applying the hair
coloring composition of claim 14 onto hair; (ii) allowing the hair
coloring composition to remain on the hair for about 5 to about 30
minutes; and (iii) rinsing the hair coloring composition from the
hair.
20. A method for coloring hair comprising: (i) spraying the hair
coloring juice phase from the hair coloring product of claim 1 onto
hair; (ii) allowing the hair coloring juice phase to remain on the
hair for about 5 to about 30 minutes; and (iii) rinsing the hair
coloring juice phase from the hair.
Description
FIELD OF THE DISCLOSURE
[0001] The present disclosure relates to water-based direct dye
compositions that quickly and effectively color hair; and to
methods for coloring hair.
BACKGROUND
[0002] There are many methods and products available for changing
the natural color of hair. Semi-permanent or temporary dyeing
methods, or direct dyeing methods, temporarily change the color of
hair. These methods can change the color of the hair to varying
degrees and the color change may withstand several rounds of
shampooing. Many consumers seek more permanent results, and
therefore default to oxidative dye products that contain hydrogen
peroxide or other oxidants. In order to provide the consumer with
the shade, longevity, and the intensity of color desired, an
oxidative coloring process is utilized. Permanent hair dyeing
formulations typically include primary intermediates (also known as
oxidative hair dye precursors or developers) and couplers (also
known as color modifiers or secondary intermediates). These dye
precursors are sufficiently small, polar and soluble to diffuse
into the hair shaft where, once activated by an oxidizing agent
under basic conditions, such as hydrogen peroxide, the primary
intermediates react with other dye precursors, e.g., couplers, to
form larger colored chromophores in the hair shaft. The
chromophores formed in the hair shaft do not readily diffuse from
the hair during subsequent washing.
[0003] The oxidative coloring of hair can require long processing
times. For instance, oxidative coloring processes involve premixing
a coloring base and a developer. This mixture is then applied to
the hair and must remain on the hair for a long period of time (an
extended "processing" time) to potentiate the desired color change.
Direct dyes, however, do not require admixing and activation by
oxidizing agents and do not require long processing times.
[0004] Many attempts have been made by the hair color industry to
enhance the washfastness (tenacity) of direct dyes by either
forming a covalent bond between chromophore and proteins inside
hair or increasing the number of binding sites, typically cationic
centers, on the chromophore. However, each attempt has its
drawbacks. The approach through covalent bonding does not
differentiate proteins in hair from skin. The approach through
multiple binding sites on the dyes (i.e. multiple positive charges
to interact with negative sites on hair, either by bonding several
monocationic dyes together or by installing multiple cationic
centers on a single chromophore) runs into the obstacles of uneven
color due to uneven damage (negative charges) along the length of
the hair fibers and reduced dye penetration into hair fibers
because the dyes are typically at least twice as large as common
oxidative dye precursors. An increase in the number of binding
sites minimizes bleeding and color loss caused by rinsing by
providing stronger hair-chromophore interactions. However, the same
strong binding force to the cuticle also prevents the chromophores
from penetrating deep into the cortex of hair, because it is
difficult for dyes with multiple positive charges to diffuse
through negatively charged networks of keratin proteins.
Additionally, since polycationic dyes remain bound to the hair
surface rather than penetrating into the fiber, it is difficult to
produce dark shades, due to limited binding sites on the surface of
hair.
[0005] Furthermore, the dying processes using direct dyes typically
involve application of creams containing the direct dyes to the
hair. These creams must be massaged with the hands or combed-into
the hair to provide uniform coverage. This process can be messy and
time consuming. Improving the washfastness (tenacity) of direct dye
products and simplifying the coloring process is desirable to both
consumers and to professional hair stylist.
SUMMARY OF THE DISCLOSURE
[0006] The present disclosure relates to hair coloring compositions
comprising direct dyes, in particular, hair-coloring compositions
(useful as juice) for use in hair-coloring aerosol spray products.
The coloring compositions and the aerosol spray products are useful
in methods for coloring hair, especially human hair. The coloring
compositions, products, and methods provide excellent color
deposition and intensity to hair and the color exhibits surprising
tenacity (withstands multiple washings without appreciable fading).
The inventors discovered that contrary to conventional wisdom,
limiting the amount of ethanol in favor of higher amounts of water
resulted in a surprising improvement in the color deposition and
tenacity of direct dyes. The coloring is accomplished without
requiring harsh oxidative chemical processing. The hair-coloring
aerosol spray products are easy to use, color hair quickly, and are
surprisingly effective.
[0007] The hair coloring compositions typically include: [0008] (a)
at least one direct dye, for example, selected from
nitro-phenylenediamines, nitro-aminophenols, azo dyes,
anthraquinones, triarylmethane dyes, indophenols, and a mixture
thereof; [0009] (b) at least one nonionic film forming polymer;
[0010] (c) at least one thickening agent; [0011] (d) at least 40
wt. % of water, based on the total weight of the composition; and
[0012] (e) 40 wt. % or less of ethanol, based on the total weight
of the composition.
[0013] As indicated above, the amount by weight of water is the
same or higher than the amount by weight of ethanol. More
specifically, the weight ratio of water to ethanol (water:ethanol)
is about 1:1 to about 5:1. Additionally, the total amount of
volatile organic compounds (VOC) in the compositions is typically
less than 55 wt. %.
[0014] The coloring compositions may be used in methods for
coloring hair. Such methods include, for example: (i) applying the
coloring composition to the hair; (ii) allowing the coloring
composition to remain on the hair for a period of time, for
example, from about 5 minutes to about 30 minutes; and (iii)
rinsing the coloring composition from the hair.
[0015] The hair-coloring compositions are particularly useful in
aerosol-spray products. Therefore, the disclosure further relates
to aerosol hair-coloring products comprising a container/canister,
the container/canister comprising: [0016] a vapor phase comprising
a propellant; and [0017] a hair coloring juice phase comprising:
[0018] (a) at least one direct dye selected from
nitro-phenylenediamines, nitro-aminophenols, azo dyes,
anthraquinones, triarylmethane dyes, indophenols, and a mixture
thereof; [0019] (b) at least one nonionic film forming polymer;
[0020] (c) at least one thickening agent; [0021] (d) at least 40
wt. % of water, based on the total weight of the juice phase; and
[0022] (e) 40 wt. % or less of ethanol, based on the total weight
of the juice phase.
[0023] The amount by weight of water in the juice phase is the same
or higher than the amount by weight of ethanol in the juice phase,
for example, the weight ratio of water to ethanol (water:ethanol)
may be about 1:1 to about 5:1. Additionally, the total amount of
volatile organic compounds (VOC) in the product is typically less
than 55 wt. %.
[0024] The aerosol spray products may be used in methods for
coloring hair. Such methods include, for example: dispensing (e.g.,
spraying) the hair coloring juice phase from the hair coloring
product onto hair; (ii) allowing the hair coloring juice phase to
remain on the hair for about 5 to about 30 minutes; and (iii)
rinsing the hair coloring juice phase from the hair.
DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE DISCLOSURE
[0025] The hair-coloring compositions of the instant disclosure
typically include: [0026] (a) about 0.01 to about 15 wt. % of at
least one direct dye selected from nitro-phenylenediamines,
nitro-aminophenols, azo dyes, anthraquinones, triarylmethane dyes,
indophenols, and a mixture thereof; [0027] (b) about 0.1 to about
25 wt. % of at least one nonionic film forming polymer; [0028] (c)
about 0.1 to about 10 wt. % of at least one thickening agent;
[0029] (d) at least 40 wt. % of water; and [0030] (e) 40 wt. % or
less of ethanol;
[0031] wherein the weight ratio of water to ethanol (water:ethanol)
is about 1:1 to about 5:1; the total amount of volatile organic
compounds (VOC) is less than 55 wt. %; and all percentages by
weight are based on the total weight of the hair coloring
composition.
[0032] The hair-coloring compositions may include (or exclude)
additional components, for example, silicones, water-soluble
solvents, fillers, salts (e.g., sodium chloride), surfactants, pH
adjusting agents, buffering agents, preservatives, fragrances, etc.
The hair-coloring compositions are non-oxidative compositions and
are therefore typically free or essentially free of oxidative dye
precursors. Furthermore, the hair-coloring compositions can be free
or essentially free of pigments. Non-limiting examples of pigments
(which may optionally be included or excluded) include silicon
powder, mica, titanium dioxide, iron oxide, bismuth oxychloride,
diatomaceous earth, and aluminum-clad epoxy resin.
[0033] Both direct dyes and pigments are used to color hair but
they differ in that pigments are finely ground color particles
dispersed through a carrying base (e.g., a coloring composition)
and take effect by being spread over the surface (e.g., hair).
Direct dyes, also called substantive dyes, are a class of colored
compounds that are typically water-soluble and have an affinity for
fibers such as hair. Direct dyes can be applied to fibers, such as
hair, without the use of a mordent and are often azo and nitro
compounds. In some instances, the only hair coloring compounds in
the hair-coloring compositions are direct dyes, for example, direct
dyes selected from nitro-phenylenediamines, nitro-aminophenols, azo
dyes, anthraquinones, triarylmethane dyes, indophenols, and a
mixture thereof. A more exhaustive but non-limiting list of useful
direct dyes is included under the heading, "Direct Dyes."
[0034] Volatile organic compounds (VOCs) are organic chemicals that
have a high vapor pressure at ordinary room temperature (25.degree.
C.). Their high vapor pressure results from a low boiling point,
which causes large numbers of molecules to evaporate or sublimate
from the liquid or solid form of the compound and enter the
surrounding air, a trait known as volatility. The term is well
understood in the art. For purposes of the instant disclosure, the
term is defined in the same manner as the US Environmental
Protection Agency (EPA) as of 2018 (see, e.g.,
epa.gov/indoor-air-quality-iaq/technical-overview-volatile-organic-compou-
nds). Non-limiting examples of VOCs in the aerosol products of the
instant disclosure include propellant (e.g., dimethyl ether) and
ethanol.
[0035] As noted above, the hair coloring compositions typically
include 55 wt. % or less of VOCs, based on the total weight of the
hair coloring composition. In some instances, the hair-coloring
compositions include 50 wt. % or less of VOCs, 45 wt. % or less of
VOCs, 40 wt. % or less of VOCs, 35 wt. % or less of VOCs, 30 wt. %
or less of VOCs, 25 wt. % or less of VOCs, or 20 wt. % or less of
VOCs. In some instances, the only VOC in the hair-coloring
composition is ethanol.
[0036] The hair-coloring compositions typically include at least 40
wt. % of water, based on the total weight of the hair-coloring
composition. In some instances, the hair-coloring compositions
include at least 50 wt %, at least 60 wt. %, at least 65 wt. %, or
at least 70 wt. % of water. The total amount of water may be at
least 40 to about 90 wt. %, at least 50 to about 90 wt. %, at least
60 to about 90 wt. %, at least 65 to about 90 wt. %, at least 70 to
about 90 wt. %, at least 40 to about 80 wt. %, at least 50 to about
80 wt. %, at least 60 to about 80 wt. %, at least 65 to about 80
wt. %, or at least 70 to about 80 wt. %, based on the total weight
of the hair-coloring composition.
[0037] The hair-coloring compositions typically include 40 wt. % or
less of ethanol, based on the total weight of the hair-coloring
composition. In some instances, the hair-coloring compositions
include 35 wt. % or less, 30 wt. %, or less, 28 wt. % or less, 26
wt. % or less, or 25 wt. % or less of ethanol. The total amount of
ethanol may be from about 5 to 40 wt. %, about 5 to 35 wt. %, about
5 to 30 wt. %, about 5 to 28 wt. %, about 5 to 26 wt. %, or about 5
to 25 wt. %, based on the total weight of the hair-coloring
compositions.
[0038] The amount of water in the hair-coloring compositions is
typically equal or higher than the amount of ethanol; and may be
equal or higher than the total amount of VOCs in the hair-coloring
composition. For example, the ratio of water to ethanol
(water:ethanol) may be from about 1:1 to about 5:1, about 1:1 to
about 4:1, about 1:1 to about 3:1, about 2:1 to about 5:1, or about
2:1 to about 4:1. Similarly, the ratio of water to total VOCs
(water:VOCs) may be from about 1:1 to about 5:1, about 1:1 to about
4:1, about 1:1 to about 3:1, about 2:1 to about 5:1, or about 2:1
to about 4:1.
[0039] The hair-coloring compositions include at least one nonionic
film forming polymer. Many aerosol products (e.g., hair spray,
etc.) include anionic film-forming polymer. The hair-coloring
compositions of the instant case may optionally include anionic
film-forming polymers but they are not required and in some
instances are preferably excluded from the compositions. With
respect to nonionic film forming polymers, non-limiting examples
include: [0040] polyalkyloxazolines; [0041] vinyl acetate
homopolymers; [0042] vinyl acetate copolymers; [0043] homopolymers
and copolymers of acrylic esters; [0044] copolymers of
acrylonitrile and a nonionic monomer; [0045] styrene homopolymers;
[0046] styrene copolymers (for instance copolymers of styrene and
of an alkyl (meth)acrylate; copolymers of styrene, of alkyl
methacrylate and of alkyl acrylate; copolymers of styrene and of
butadiene; or copolymers of styrene, of butadiene and of
vinylpyridine); [0047] polyamides; [0048] vinylpyrrolidone
homopolymers; [0049] copolymer of vinylpyrrolidone and vinyl
acetate monomers; [0050] vinyllactam homopolymers including and
polyvinylcaprolactam; and [0051] vinyllactam copolymers, such as
poly(vinylpyrrolidone/vinyllactam) copolymer,
poly(vinylpyrrolidone/vinyl acetate) copolymers; [0052]
poly(vinylpyrrolidone/vinyl acetate/vinyl propionate) terpolymers;
and a mixture thereof.
[0053] In some instances, the hair-coloring compositions preferably
include at least one nonionic film forming polymer selected from
VP/VA copolymer (or PVP/VA copolymer), PVP, or a mixture thereof. A
more exhaustive but non-limiting list of useful nonionic film
polymers is included under the heading "Nonionic Film Forming
Polymers."
[0054] Thickening agents (also referred to as thickeners or
viscosity modifying agents) are well known. Thickening agents may
be nonionic, anionic, or cationic. The thickening agents most
useful in the hair-coloring compositions of the instant case are
anionic and/or nonionic. A more exhaustive but non-limiting list of
useful thickening agents is included under the heading, "Thickening
Agents."
[0055] Methods for coloring hair with the hair-coloring
compositions include applying the hair-coloring composition to the
hair. The hair-coloring compositions may be allowed to remain on
the hair for a period of time to allow for the direct dyes to
penetrate/attach to the hair. After a period of time, the
hair-coloring compositions may be rinsed from the hair. After
rinsing, the hair may optionally be shampooed and/or styled. The
amount of time that the hair-coloring compositions is allowed to
remain on the hair before rinsing (i.e., the total processing time)
may vary. The hair-coloring composition may be allowed to remain on
the hair for about 5 to about 45 minutes, for about 5 to about 40
minutes, for about 5 to about 30 minutes, for about 10 to about 45
minutes, for about 10 to about 40 minutes, for about 10 to about 30
minutes, or about 15 to about 25 minutes.
[0056] The hair-coloring compositions can be applied to all of the
hair of the head or may be applied to select portions of the hair
of the head. The term "hair of the head" relates to the hair on the
top of a head and does not include the hair of eyelashes and
eyebrows. Nonetheless, the methods of the instant disclosure can be
used to color eyelashes and/or eyebrows if such coloring is
desired. Application to select portions or sections (chunks) of
hair can be used to provide a highlighting effect. The
hair-coloring compositions can be applied to dry hair or to wet or
damp hair. For instance, the hair may be shampooed or rinsed prior
to the application of a hair-coloring composition, for example, to
ensure that hair styling products and/or contamination is removed
from the hair prior to coloring the hair.
[0057] The hair-coloring compositions described throughout this
disclosure are particularly useful in aerosol-spray products.
Therefore, the disclosure further relates to aerosol hair-coloring
products. Such products typically include a canister (or a
container) that comprises a vapor phase comprising a propellant and
a hair coloring juice phase. The hair-coloring compositions
described throughout the instant disclosure are particularly well
suited to serve as the juice phase. Therefore, throughout the
disclosure, the "hair-coloring compositions" and the "hair-coloring
juice phase" can be interchangeable. In other words, any
components, characteristics, or amounts described for the
hair-coloring compositions equally applies to the hair-coloring
juice phase (and vice versa).
[0058] The aerosol hair-coloring products typically include a
container/canister, the container/canister comprising: [0059] a
vapor phase comprising a propellant; and [0060] a hair-coloring
juice phase comprising: [0061] (a) at least one direct dye selected
from nitro-phenylenediamines, nitro-aminophenols, azo dyes,
anthraquinones, triarylmethane dyes, indophenols, and a mixture
thereof; [0062] (b) at least one nonionic film forming polymer;
[0063] (c) at least one thickening agent; [0064] (d) at least 40
wt. % of water, based on the total weight of the juice phase; and
[0065] (e) 40 wt. % or less of ethanol, based on the total weight
of the juice phase.
[0066] The amount by weight of water in the juice phase is the same
or higher than the amount by weight of ethanol in the juice phase,
for example, the weight ratio of water to ethanol (water:ethanol)
may be about 1:1 to about 5:1. Additionally, the total amount of
volatile organic compounds (VOC) in the product is typically less
than 55 wt. %.
[0067] The aerosol hair-coloring products, in particular the juice
phase, may include (or exclude) additional components, for example,
silicones, water-soluble solvents, fillers, salts (e.g., sodium
chloride), surfactants, pH adjusting agents, buffering agents,
preservatives, fragrances, etc. The aerosol hair-coloring products
are non-oxidative products and are therefore are typically free or
essentially free of oxidative dye precursors. Furthermore, the
aerosol hair-coloring products can be free or essentially free of
pigments. Non-limiting examples of pigments (which may optionally
be included or excluded) include silicon powder, mica, titanium
dioxide, iron oxide, bismuth oxychloride, diatomaceous earth, and
aluminum-clad epoxy resin.
[0068] In some instances, the only hair coloring compounds in the
aerosol hair-coloring products are direct dyes, for example, direct
dyes selected from nitro-phenylenediamines, nitro-aminophenols, azo
dyes, anthraquinones, triarylmethane dyes, indophenols, and a
mixture thereof. A more exhaustive but non-limiting list of useful
direct dyes is included under the heading, "Direct Dyes."
[0069] The aerosol hair-coloring products typically include 70 wt.
% or less of VOCs, based on the total weight of the hair-coloring
composition (juice) and propellant (i.e., the total weight of the
content inside of a container or canister that houses the
hair-coloring juice phase and the propellant(s)). In some
instances, the hair-coloring products include 66 wt. % or less of
VOCs, 60 wt. % or less of VOCs, 55 wt. % or less of VOCs, or 50 wt.
% or less based on the total weight of the hair-coloring
composition (juice) and propellant (i.e., the total weight of the
content inside of a container or canister that houses the
hair-coloring juice phase and the propellant(s)). In some
instances, the only VOCs in the hair-coloring product are the
ethanol and the propellant.
[0070] The hair-coloring juice typically include at least 40 wt. %
of water, based on the total weight of the hair-coloring juice. In
some instances, the hair-coloring juice includes at least 50 wt %,
at least 60 wt. %, at least 65 wt. %, or at least 70 wt. % of
water. The total amount of water may be at least 40 to about 90 wt.
%, at least 50 to about 90 wt. %, at least 60 to about 90 wt. %, at
least 65 to about 90 wt. %, at least 70 to about 90 wt. %, at least
40 to about 80 wt. %, at least 50 to about 80 wt. %, at least 60 to
about 80 wt. %, at least 65 to about 80 wt. %, or at least 70 to
about 80 wt. %, based on the total weight of the hair-coloring
juice.
[0071] The hair-coloring juice typically includes 40 wt. % or less
of ethanol, based on the total weight of the hair-coloring
composition. In some instances, the hair-coloring juice includes 35
wt. % or less, 30 wt. %, or less, 28 wt. % or less, 26 wt. % or
less, or 25 wt. % or less of ethanol. The total amount of ethanol
may be from about 5 to 40 wt. %, about 5 to 35 wt. %, about 5 to 30
wt. %, about 5 to 28 wt. %, about 5 to 26 wt. %, or about 5 to 25
wt. %, based on the total weight of the hair-coloring juice.
[0072] The amount of water in the hair-coloring juice is typically
equal or higher than the amount of ethanol; and may be equal or
higher than the total amount of VOCs in the hair-coloring
composition. For example, the ratio of water to ethanol
(water:ethanol) may be from about 1:1 to about 5:1, about 1:1 to
about 4:1, about 1:1 to about 3:1, about 2:1 to about 5:1, or about
2:1 to about 4:1. Similarly, the ratio of water to total VOCs
(water:VOCs) may be from about 1:1 to about 5:1, about 1:1 to about
4:1, about 1:1 to about 3:1, about 2:1 to about 5:1, or about 2:1
to about 4:1. The hair hair-coloring juice typically includes at
least one nonionic film forming polymer. Many aerosol products
(e.g., hair spray, etc.) include anionic film-forming polymer. The
hair-coloring compositions of the instant case may optionally
include anionic film-forming polymers but they are not required and
in some instances are preferably excluded from the compositions.
With respect to nonionic film forming polymers, non-limiting
examples include: [0073] polyalkyloxazolines; [0074] vinyl acetate
homopolymers; [0075] vinyl acetate copolymers; [0076] homopolymers
and copolymers of acrylic esters; [0077] copolymers of
acrylonitrile and a nonionic monomer; [0078] styrene homopolymers;
[0079] styrene copolymers (for instance copolymers of styrene and
of an alkyl (meth)acrylate; copolymers of styrene, of alkyl
methacrylate and of alkyl acrylate; copolymers of styrene and of
butadiene; or copolymers of styrene, of butadiene and of
vinylpyridine); [0080] polyamides; [0081] vinylpyrrolidone
homopolymers; [0082] copolymer of vinylpyrrolidone and vinyl
acetate monomers; [0083] vinyllactam homopolymers including and
polyvinylcaprolactam; and [0084] vinyllactam copolymers, such as
poly(vinylpyrrolidone/vinyllactam) copolymer,
poly(vinylpyrrolidone/vinyl acetate) copolymers; [0085]
poly(vinylpyrrolidone/vinyl acetate/vinyl propionate) terpolymers;
and a mixture thereof.
[0086] In some instances, the hair-coloring juice preferably
includes at least one nonionic film forming polymer selected from
VP/VA copolymer (or PVP/VA copolymer), PVP, or a mixture thereof. A
more exhaustive but non-limiting list of useful nonionic film
polymers is included under the heading "Nonionic Film Forming
Polymers."
[0087] Thickening agents (also referred to as thickeners or
viscosity modifying agents) are well known. Thickening agents may
be nonionic, anionic, or cationic. The thickening agents most
useful in the hair-coloring compositions of the instant case are
anionic and nonionic, preferably anionic. A more exhaustive but
non-limiting list of useful thickening agents is included under the
heading, "Thickening Agents."
[0088] The canister or container of aerosol hair-coloring products
typically have a spray button or other type of dispensing device
that allows a user to dispense material from within the canister or
container, including propellant and/or hair-coloring juice.
Propellants are known and various types may be used. Non-limiting
examples of propellants include dimethyl ether, lower alkanes, such
as n-butane, isobutene and propane, fluorohydrocarbons, such as F
152a (1,1-difluorethane) or F 134 (tetrafluorethane). In some
cases, particularly useful propellants include dimethyl ether,
hydrofluorocarbon 152A, isobutane, propane, butane, and a mixture
thereof. Dimethyl ether is a particularly useful and preferred
propellant.
[0089] Various aerosol devices may be employed. Typically, an
aerosol device includes a vessel (e.g., a container or canister)
and a dispensing device for dispensing the content of the vessel,
such as a spray device. Contained inside the vessel is a vapor
phase comprising propellant(s) and a hair-coloring juice phase
(liquid phase) comprising the hair-coloring compositions described
throughout the instant disclosure. The role of the vapor phase (the
propellant(s) in particular) is to provide pressure for expelling
the juice phase from the vessel. For example, typical aerosol hair
spray devices expel the juice phase in the form of a mist of
dispersed droplets. The juice phase is primarily comprised of the
hair-coloring compositions of the instant disclosure. Small amounts
of propellant(s) or other materials from the vapor phase may be
present in the juice phase, for example, to the extent that these
components may be partially dispersed or solubilized in the juice
phase. Likewise, the vapor phase is primarily comprised of
propellant(s). Small amounts of juice phase (or components of the
juice phase) may be present in the vapor phase to the extent that
the juice phase (or components of the juice phase) are dispersed or
solubilized in the vapor phase.
[0090] The total amount of propellant incorporated into aerosol
hair-coloring product may vary. In some cases, however, an aerosol
hair-coloring product may include about 10 to about 60 wt. % of
propellant, based on the total weight of the hair-coloring
composition (juice) and propellant (i.e., the total weight of the
content inside of a container or canister that houses the
hair-coloring juice phase and the propellant(s))). In some cases,
the total amount of propellant may be about 10 to about 50 wt. %,
about 10 to about 45 wt. %, about 10 to about 40 wt. %, about 20 to
about 60 wt. %, about 20 to about 50 wt. %, about 10 to about 40
wt. %, or about 25 to about 45 wt. %, based on the total weight of
the hair-coloring composition (juice) and propellant (i.e., the
total weight of the content inside of a container or canister that
houses the hair-coloring juice phase and the propellant(s))).
[0091] Methods for coloring hair with the aerosol hair-coloring
products include dispensing (for example, spraying) the
hair-coloring juice from the aerosol hair-coloring product onto
hair. The hair-coloring juice may be allowed to remain on the hair
for a period of time to allow for the direct dyes to
penetrate/attach to the hair. After a period of time, the
hair-coloring juice may optionally be rinsed from the hair. After
optional rinsing, the hair may optionally be shampooed and/or
styled. The amount of time that the hair-coloring juice is allowed
to remain on the hair before rinsing (i.e., the total processing
time) may vary. The hair-coloring juice may be allowed to remain on
the hair for about 5 to about 45 minutes, for about 5 to about 40
minutes, for about 5 to about 30 minutes, for about 10 to about 45
minutes, for about 10 to about 40 minutes, for about 10 to about 30
minutes, or about 15 to about 25 minutes.
[0092] The hair-coloring juice can be dispensed to all of the hair
of the head or may be dispensed to select portions of the hair of
the hair. The term "hair of the head" relates to the hair on the
top of a head and does not include the hair of eyelashes and
eyebrows. Nonetheless, the methods of the instant disclosure can be
used to color eyelashes and/or eyebrows if such coloring is
desired. Application to select portions or sections (chunks) of
hair can be used to provide a highlighting effect. The
hair-coloring compositions can be dispensed to dry hair or to wet
or damp hair. For instance, the hair may be shampooed or rinsed
prior to the application of the hair-coloring juice, for example,
to ensure that hair styling products and/or contamination is
removed from the hair prior to coloring the hair.
[0093] More exhaustive but non-limiting examples of components that
may be used in the compositions, products, and methods of the
instant disclosure are provided below.
Direct Dyes
[0094] Examples of suitable direct dyes that may be mentioned
include azo direct dyes; (poly)methine dyes such as cyanins,
hemicyanins and styryls; carbonyl dyes; azine dyes;
nitro(hetero)aryl dyes; tri(hetero)arylmethane dyes; porphyrin
dyes; phthalocyanin dyes, and natural direct dyes, alone or as
mixtures.
[0095] Many direct dyes are cationic direct dyes. Mention may be
made of the hydrazono cationic dyes of formulas (Va) and (V'a), the
azo cationic dyes (VIa) and (VI'a) and the diazo cationic dyes
(VIIa) below:
Het.sup.+-C(R.sup.a).dbd.N--N(R.sup.b)--Ar,An.sup.+ (Va)
Het.sup.+-(R.sup.a)--N.dbd.C(R.sup.b)--Ar,An.sup.- (V'a)
Het.sup.+--N.dbd.N--Ar,An.sup.- (VIa)
Ar.sup.+--N.dbd.N--Ar',An.sup.- (VI'a) and
Het.sup.+-N.dbd.N--Ar'--N.dbd.N--Ar,An.sup.- (VUIa) [0096] in which
formulas (Va), (V'a), (VIa), (VI'a) and (VIIa): [0097] Het.sup.+
represents a cationic heteroaryl radical, preferably bearing an
endocyclic cationic charge, such as imidazolium, indolium or
pyridinium, optionally substituted preferentially with one or more
(C.sub.1-C.sub.8) alkyl groups such as methyl; [0098] Ar.sup.+
representing an aryl radical, such as phenyl or naphthyl, bearing
an exocyclic cationic charge, preferentially ammonium, particularly
tri(C.sub.1-C.sub.8)alkylammonium such as trimethylammonium; [0099]
Ar represents an aryl group, especially phenyl, which is optionally
substituted, preferentially with one or more electron-donating
groups such as i) optionally substituted (C.sub.1-C.sub.8)alkyl,
ii) optionally substituted (C.sub.1-C.sub.8)alkoxy, iii)
(di)(C.sub.1-C.sub.8)(alkyl)amino optionally substituted on the
alkyl group(s) with a hydroxyl group, iv)
aryl(C.sub.1-C.sub.8)alkylamino, v) optionally substituted
N--(C.sub.1-C.sub.8)alkyl-N-aryl(C.sub.1-C.sub.8)alkylamino or
alternatively Ar represents a julolidine group; [0100] Ar' is an
optionally substituted divalent (hetero)arylene group such as
phenylene, particularly para-phenylene, or naphthalene, which are
optionally substituted, preferentially with one or more groups
(C.sub.1-C.sub.8)alkyl, hydroxyl or (C.sub.1-C.sub.8)alkoxy [0101]
Ar'' is an optionally substituted (hetero)aryl group such as phenyl
or pyrazolyl, which are optionally substituted, preferentially with
one or more groups (C.sub.1-C.sub.8)alkyl, hydroxyl,
(di)(C.sub.1-C.sub.8)(alkyl)amino, (C.sub.1-C.sub.8)alkoxy or
phenyl; [0102] R.sup.a and R.sup.b, which may be identical or
different, represent a hydrogen atom or a group
(C.sub.1-C.sub.8)alkyl, which is optionally substituted,
preferentially with a hydroxyl group; [0103] or alternatively the
substituent R.sup.a with a substituent of Het.sup.+ and/or R.sub.b
with a substituent of Ar and/or R.sup.a with R.sub.b form, together
with the atoms that bear them, a (hetero)cycloalkyl; [0104]
particularly, R.sup.a and R.sub.b represent a hydrogen atom or a
group (C.sub.1-C.sub.4)alkyl, which is optionally substituted with
a hydroxyl group; [0105] An.sup.- represents an anionic counter-ion
such as mesylate or halide. In particular, mention may be made of
the azo and hydrazono cationic dyes bearing an endocyclic cationic
charge of formulae (Va), (V'a) and (VIa) as defined previously.
More particularly those of formulae (Va), (V'a) and (VIa) derived
from the dyes described in patent applications WO 95/15144, WO
95/01772 and EP-714954, which are incorporated herein by reference
in their entirety.
[0106] In some cases, the cationic part is derived from the
following derivatives:
##STR00001## [0107] formulae (V-1) and (VI-1) with: [0108] R.sup.1
representing a (C.sub.1-C.sub.4) alkyl group such as methyl; [0109]
R.sup.2 and R.sup.3, which are identical or different, represent a
hydrogen atom or a (C.sub.1-C.sub.4)alkyl group, such as methyl;
and [0110] R.sup.4 represents a hydrogen atom or an
electron-donating group such as optionally substituted
(C.sub.1-C.sub.8)alkyl, optionally substituted
(C.sub.1-C.sub.8)alkoxy, or (di)(C.sub.1-C.sub.8)(alkyl)amino
optionally substituted on the alkyl group(s) with a hydroxyl group;
particularly, R.sup.4 is a hydrogen atom, [0111] Z represents a CH
group or a nitrogen atom, preferentially CH; [0112] An.sup.-
represents an anionic counter-ion such as mesylate or halide.
[0113] Particularly, the dye of formulae (Va-1) and (Via-1) is
chosen from Basic Red 51, Basic Yellow 87 and Basic Orange 31 or
derivatives thereof:
##STR00002##
Basic Yellow 87
[0114] Non-limiting examples of cationic dyes include Basic Blue 6,
Basic Blue 7, Basic Blue 9, Basic Blue 26, Basic Blue 41, Basic
Blue 99, Basic Brown 4, Basic Brown 16, Basic Brown 17, Natural
Brown 7, Basic Green, Basic Orange 31, 1, Basic Red 2, Basic Red 12
Basic Red 22, Basic Red 76 Basic Red 51, Basic Violet 1, Basic
Violet 2, Basic Violet 3, Basic Violet 10, Basic Violet 14, Basic
Yellow 57 and Basic Yellow 87.
[0115] Non-limiting examples anionic dyes include Acid Black 1,
Acid Blue 1, Acid Blue 3, Food Blue 5, Acid Blue 7, Acid Blue 9,
Acid Blue 74, Acid Orange 3, Acid Orange 6, Acid Orange 7, Acid
Orange 10, Acid Red 1, Acid Red 14, Acid Red 18, Acid Red 27, Acid
Red 50, Acid Red 52, Acid Red 73, Acid Red 87, Acid Red 88, Acid
Red 92, Acid Red 155, Acid Red 180, Acid Violet 9, Acid Violet 43,
Acid Violet 49, Acid Yellow 1, Acid Yellow 23, Acid Yellow 3, Food
Yellow No. 8, D&C Brown No. 1, D&C Green No. 5, D&C
Green No. 8, D&C Orange No. 4, D&C Orange No. 10, D&C
Orange No. 11, D&C Red No. 21, D&C Red No. 27, D&C Red
No. 33, D&C Violet 2, D&C Yellow No. 7, D&C Yellow No.
8, D&C Yellow No. 10, FD&C Red 2, FD&C Red 40, FD&C
Red No. 4, FD&C Yellow No. 6, FD&C Blue 1, Food Black 1,
Food Black 2, Disperse Black 9 and Disperse Violet 1 and their
alkali metal salts such as sodium and/or potassium.
[0116] Non-limiting examples of nitro dyes include HC Blue No. 2,
HC Blue No. 4, HC Blue No. 5, HC Blue No. 6, HC Blue No. 7, HC Blue
No. 8, HC Blue No. 9, HC Blue No. 10, HC Blue No. 11, HC Blue No.
12, HC Blue No. 13, HC Blue No. 17, HC Brown No. 1, HC Brown No. 2,
HC Green No. 1, HC Orange No. 1, HC Orange No. 2, HC Orange No. 3,
HC Orange No. 5, HC Red BN, HC Red No. 1, HC Red No. 3, HC Red No.
7, HC Red No. 8, HC Red No. 9, HC Red No. 10, HC Red No. 11, HC Red
No. 13, HC Red No. 54, HC Red No. 14, HC Violet BS, HC Violet No.
1, HC Violet No. 2, HC Yellow No. 2, HC Yellow No. 4, HC Yellow No.
5, HC Yellow No. 6, HC Yellow No. 7, HC Yellow No. 8, HC Yellow No.
9, HC Yellow No. 10, HC Yellow No. 11, HC Yellow No. 12, HC Yellow
No. 13, HC Yellow No. 14, HC Yellow No. 15,
2-Amino-6-chloro-4-nitrophenol, picramic acid,
1,2-Diamino-4-nitrobenzol, 1,4-Diamino-2-nitrobenzol,
3-Nitro-4-aminophenol, 1-Hydroxy-2-amino-3-nitrobenzol and
2-hydroxyethylpicramic acid.
[0117] The total amount of direct dyes in the hair-coloring
compositions/juice may vary but is typically from about 0.001 to
about 10 wt. %, based on the total weight of the hair-coloring
composition/juice. In some cases, the total amount of direct dyes
in the hair-coloring coloring composition/juice may be from about
0.001 to about 8 wt. %, about 0.001 to about 6 wt. %, about 0.001
to about 5 wt. %, about 0.001 to about 4 wt. %, about 0.001 to
about 3 wt. %, about 0.01 to about 10 wt. %, about 0.01 to about 8
wt. %, about 0.01 to about 6 wt. %, about 0.01 to about 5 wt. %,
about 0.01 to about 4 wt. %, about 0.01 to about 3 wt. %, about 0.1
to about 10 wt. %, about 0.1 to about 8 wt. %, about 0.1 to about 6
wt. %, or about 0.1 to about 5 wt. %, about 0.1 to about 4 wt. %,
or about 0.1 to about 3 wt. %, based on the total weight of the
aqueous coloring composition/juice.
Nonionic Film Forming Polymers
[0118] Nonionic film forming polymers include homopolymers and
copolymers derived from at least one nonionic monomer. Nonionic
monomers are, for example, acrylamide, methacrylamide, alkyl- and
dialkylacrylamide, alkyl- and dialkylmethacrylamide, alkyl
acrylate, alkyl methacrylate, vinylcaprolactone, vinylpyrrolidone,
vinyl esters, vinyl alcohol, propylene glycol or ethylene glycol,
wherein the alkyl groups of these monomers are preferably C.sub.1
to C.sub.7 alkyl groups and particularly C1 to C3 alkyl groups.
Suitable synthetic, nonionic, hair-setting polymers are, for
example, the homopolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and the homopolymers
of N-vinylformamide. Other suitable synthetic film-forming,
nonionic, hair-setting polymers are, for example, the copolymers of
vinyl pyrrolidone and vinyl acetate, the terpolymers of vinyl
pyrrolidone, vinyl acetate and vinyl propionate, and the
polyacrylamides, polyvinyl alcohols or polyethylene glycols with a
molecular weight of 800 to 20,000 g/mol.
[0119] Nonionic film forming polymers include: polyalkyloxazolines;
vinyl acetate homopolymers; vinyl acetate copolymers; homopolymers
and copolymers of acrylic esters; copolymers of acrylonitrile and a
nonionic monomer; styrene homopolymers; styrene copolymers (for
instance copolymers of styrene and of an alkyl (meth)acrylate;
copolymers of styrene, of alkyl methacrylate and of alkyl acrylate;
copolymers of styrene and of butadiene; or copolymers of styrene,
of butadiene and of vinylpyridine); polyamides; vinylpyrrolidone
homopolymers; copolymer of vinylpyrrolidone and vinyl acetate
monomers; vinyllactam homopolymers including and
polyvinylcaprolactam; and vinyllactam copolymers, such as
poly(vinylpyrrolidone/vinyllactam) copolymer,
poly(vinylpyrrolidone/vinyl acetate) copolymers;
poly(vinylpyrrolidone/vinyl acetate/vinyl propionate) terpolymers;
and a mixture thereof.
[0120] In some instances, preferred nonionic film forming polymers
include copolymer of vinylpyrrolidone and vinyl acetate monomers
and/or vinylpyrrolidone homopolymers, for example, VP/VA copolymer
(or PVP/VA copolymer), PVP, or a mixture thereof.
[0121] The total amount of the nonionic film forming polymers in
the hair-coloring compositions/juice can vary but is typically
about 0.1 to about 25 wt. %, based on the total weight of the
hair-coloring composition/juice. In some instances, the total
amount of nonionic film forming polymers is from about 0.1 to about
20 wt. %, about 0.1 to about 15 wt. %, about 0.1 to about 10 wt. %,
about 0.1 to about 5 wt. %, about 0.5 to about 20 wt. %, about 0.5
to about 15 wt. %, about 0.5 to about 10 wt. %, about 0.5 to about
5 wt. %, about 1 to about 20 wt. %, about 1 to about 15 wt. %,
about 1 to about 10 wt. %, or about 1 to about 5 wt. %, based on
the total weight of the hair-coloring composition/juice.
Thickening Agents
[0122] Thickening agents may be referred to as "thickeners" or
"viscosity modifying agents." Many thickening agents are
water-soluble, and increase the viscosity of water or form an
aqueous gel when dispersed/dissolved in water. The aqueous solution
may be heated and cooled, or neutralized, for forming the gel, if
necessary. The thickening agent may be dispersed/dissolved in an
aqueous solvent that is soluble in water, e.g., ethyl alcohol when
it is dispersed/dissolved in water.
[0123] Non-limiting examples of thickening agents include xanthan
gum, guar gum, biosaccharide gum, cellulose, acacia Seneca gum,
sclerotium gum, agarose, pechtin, gellan gum, hyaluronic acid. In
some instances, the one or more thickening agents may include
polymeric thickening agents, for example, those selected from the
group consisting of ammonium polyacryloyldimethyl taurate, ammonium
acryloyldimethyltaurateNP copolymer, sodium polyacrylate, acrylates
copolymers, polyacrylamide, carbomer, acrylates/C10-30 alkyl
acrylate crosspolymer, and acrylamide/sodium
acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer
[0124] In some instances, the thickening agent(s) are selected from
carboxylic acid polymers (e.g., carbomer), crosslinked polyacrylate
polymers, polyacrylamide polymers, polysaccharides, gums, and a
mixture thereof. A more detailed description of various thickening
agents is provided below.
[0125] (a) Carboxylic Acid Polymers
[0126] These polymers are crosslinked compounds containing one or
more monomers derived from acrylic acid, substituted acrylic acids,
and salts and esters of these acrylic acids and the substituted
acrylic acids, wherein the crosslinking agent contains two or more
carbon-carbon double bonds and is derived from a polyhydric
alcohol.
[0127] Examples of commercially available carboxylic acid polymers
useful herein include the carbomers, which are homopolymers of
acrylic acid crosslinked with allyl ethers of sucrose or
pentaerytritol. The carbomers are available as the Carbopol.RTM.
900 series from B.F. Goodrich (e.g., Carbopol) 954). In addition,
other suitable carboxylic acid polymeric agents include Ultrez.RTM.
10 (B.F. Goodrich) and copolymers of C10-30 alkyl acrylates with
one or more monomers of acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, or one of
their short chain (i.e., C1-4 alcohol) esters, wherein the
crosslinking agent is an allyl ether of sucrose or pentaerytritol.
These copolymers are known as acrylates/C10-C30 alkyl acrylate
crosspolymers and are commercially available as Carbopol.RTM. 1342,
Carbopol) 1382, Pemulen TR-1, and Pemulen TR-2, from B.F. Goodrich.
In other words, examples of carboxylic acid polymer thickeners
useful herein are those selected from carbomers, acrylates/C10-C30
alkyl acrylate crosspolymers, and mixtures thereof.
[0128] (b) Crosslinked Polyacrylate Polymers
[0129] The compositions of the present disclosure can optionally
contain crosslinked polyacrylate polymers useful as thickeners or
gelling agents including both cationic and nonionic polymers.
[0130] (c) Polyacrylamide Polymers
[0131] The compositions of the present disclosure can optionally
contain polyacrylamide polymers, especially polyacrylamide polymers
including substituted branched or unbranched polymers. Among these
polyacrylamide polymers is the polymer given the CTFA designation
polyacrylamide and isoparaffin and laureth-7, available under the
Tradename Sepigel 305 from Seppic Corporation.
[0132] Other polyacrylamide polymers useful herein include
multi-block copolymers of acrylamides and substituted acrylamides
with acrylic acids and substituted acrylic acids. Commercially
available examples of these multi-block copolymers include Hypan
SR150H, SS500V, SS500W, SSSA100H, from Lipo Chemicals, Inc.
[0133] The compositions may also contain thickening and texturising
gels of the type as exemplified by the product range called
Lubrajel.RTM. from United Guardian. These gels have moisturizing,
viscosifying, stabilizing properties.
[0134] (d) Polysaccharides
[0135] A wide variety of polysaccharides can be useful herein.
"Polysaccharides" refer to gelling agents that contain a backbone
of repeating sugar (i.e., carbohydrate) units. Nonlimiting examples
of polysaccharide gelling agents include those selected from the
group consisting of cellulose, carboxymethyl hydroxyethylcellulose,
cellulose acetate propionate carboxylate, hydroxyethylcellulose,
hydroxyethyl ethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, hydroxypropyl
methylcellulose, methyl hydroxyethylcellulose, microcrystalline
cellulose, sodium cellulose sulfate, and mixtures thereof. Also
useful herein are the alkyl-substituted celluloses. Preferred among
the alkyl hydroxyalkyl cellulose ethers is the material given the
CTFA designation cetyl hydroxyethylcellulose, which is the ether of
cetyl alcohol and hydroxyethylcellulose. This material is sold
under the tradename Natrosol.RTM. CS Plus from Aqualon
Corporation.
[0136] Other useful polysaccharides include scleroglucans
comprising a linear chain of (1-3) linked glucose units with a
(1-6) linked glucose every three units, a commercially available
example of which is Clearogel.TM.. CS11 from Michel Mercier
Products Inc.
[0137] (e) Gums
[0138] Other thickening and gelling agents useful herein include
materials which are primarily derived from natural sources.
Nonlimiting examples of these gelling agent gums include acacia,
agar, algin, alginic acid, ammonium alginate, amylopectin, calcium
alginate, calcium carrageenan, camitine, carrageenan, dextrin,
gelatin, gellan gum, guar gum, guar hydroxypropyltrimonium
chloride, hectorite, hyaluronic acid, hydrated silica,
hydroxypropyl chitosan, hydroxypropyl guar, karaya gum, kelp,
locust bean gum, natto gum, potassium alginate, potassium
carrageenan, propylene glycol alginate, sclerotium gum, sodium
carboxymethyl dextran, sodium carrageenan, tragacanth gum, xanthan
gum, biosacharide gum, and mixtures thereof.
[0139] Additional examples of water-soluble thickeners include
water-soluble natural polymers, water-soluble synthetic polymers,
clay minerals and silicic anhydride. Non-limiting examples of
water-soluble natural polymers include gum arabic, tragacanth gum,
karaya gum, guar gum, gellan gum, tara gum, locust bean gum,
tamarind gum, sodium alginate, alginic acid propyleneglycol ester,
carrageenan, farcelluran, agar, high-methoxy pectin, low-methoxy
pectin, xanthine, chitosan, starch (for example starch derived from
corn, potato, wheat, rice, sweet potato and tapioca, a-starch,
soluble starch), fermentation polysaccharide (for example, xanthan
gum, pullulan, carciran, dextran), acidic hetero-polysaccharide
derived from callus of plants belonging to Polyantes sp. (for
example, tuberous polysaccharide), proteins (for example, sodium
casein, gelatin, albumin), chondroitin sulfate, and hyaluronic
acid.
[0140] Non-limiting examples of water-soluble synthetic polymers
include polyvinyl alcohol, sodium polyacrylate, sodium
polymethacrylate, polyacrylic acid glycerin ester, carboxyvinyl
polymer, polyacrylamide, polyvinyl pyrrolidone, polyvinyl
methylether, polyvinyl sulfone, maleic acid copolymer, polyethylene
oxide, polydiallyl amine, polyethylene imine, water soluble
cellulose derivatives (for example, carboxymethyl cellulose, methyl
cellulose, methylhydroxypropyl cellulose, hydroxyethyl cellulose,
hydroxypropyl cellulose, cellulose sulfate sodium salt), and starch
derivatives (for example, starch oxide, dialdehyde starch, dextrin,
British gum, acetyl starch, starch phosphate, carboxymethyl starch,
hydroxyethyl starch, hydroxypropyl starch).
[0141] Thickening agents may be nonionic, anionic, or cationic. In
some instances, the thickening agents are preferably nonionic or
anionic, more preferably, anionic.
[0142] Non-limiting examples of nonionic thickening agents include
polysaccharides, modified or unmodified starches, amylose,
amylopectin, glycogen, dextrans, celluloses, cellulose derivatives,
xylans, glucans, arabans, galactans, chitin, agars, locust bean
gums, mannans, and a mixture thereof. In some instances, the
hair-coloring compositions/juice preferably include nonionic
thickening agent(s).
[0143] Non-limiting examples of anionic thickening agents include
polyacrylate-3, carbomers, acrylates/C10-30 alkyl acrylate
crosspolymers, acrylates/C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer,
AMP-acrylates/allyl methacrylate copolymer, polyacrylate
crosspolymer-6, a crosslinked methacrylic acid/ethyl acrylate
copolymer (acrylates copolymer), and a mixture thereof. In some
instances, the hair-coloring compositions/juice preferably include
anionic thickening agent(s), in particular, polyacrylate-3.
[0144] Non-limiting examples of cationic thickening agents include
dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate homopolymers quatemized with methyl
chloride or dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymers quaternized
with methyl chloride and acrylamide (e.g., methacryloylethyl
trimethyl ammonium chloride homopolymer, INCI name:
polyquaternium-37). Another suitable example of a cationic
thickening agent is a product known by the INCI name of
polyacrylate-1 crosspolymer. In some instances, the hair-coloring
compositions/juice may preferably exclude cationic thickening
agents, i.e., the hair-coloring compositions/juice may be free or
essentially free of cationic thickening agents (or cationic
thickening polymers).
[0145] The total amount of thickening agents in the hair-coloring
compositions/juice may vary but is typically about 0.01 to about 10
wt. %, based on the total weight of the hair-coloring
composition/juice. In some cases, the total amount of thickening
agents may be about 0.01 to about 5 wt. %, about 0.01 to about 3
wt. %, about 0.1 to about 10 wt. %, about 0.1 to about 5 wt. %, or
about 0.1 to about 3 wt. %, based on the total weight of the
hair-coloring compositions/juice.
Silicone
[0146] One or more silicones may optionally be included in the
hair-coloring compositions/juice. Non-limiting examples of
silicones include polyorganosiloxanes, polyalkylsiloxanes,
polyarylsiloxanes, polyalkarylsiloxanes, polyestersiloxanes, and a
mixture thereof. In particular, suitable examples of silicones
include dimethicone, cyclomethicone, amodimethicone, trimethyl
silyl amodimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, trimethyl siloxy
silicate, and mixtures thereof. In some cases, dimethicone is
preferred silicone.
[0147] Exemplary silicones include, without limitation, cyclic
silicones, such as those having 3 to 6, or 3 to 4 or 3 to 5, (or
any of 3, 4, 5, or 6) Si--O groups in the cyclic backbone chain
(e.g., siloxanes). In some cases, the cyclic silicone is a volatile
silicone. In some cases, the cyclic silicone is a low viscosity
silicone. Exemplary cyclic silicones include, without limitation,
cyclomethicone, cyclotetrasiloxane, cyclopentasiloxane (e.g.,
Cyclomethicone 5-NF), cyclohexasiloxane and a mixture of
cyclohexasiloxane and cyclopenasiloxane (e.g., DOW CORNING 246
Fluid (d6+d5)). Other non-limiting examples of silicones are
silicones having side groups or side chains. In some cases, the
side groups are hydrophobic. In some cases, the side groups are
straight chained, while in other embodiments the side groups are
branched. Exemplary side chains include those having 1 to 6, or 2
to 6, or 3 to 6 or 3 to 6 or 5 to 6 carbons or heteroatoms (e.g.,
O, S, or N) (or a mixture thereof). Exemplary linear side chains
include, without limitation, methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl, pentyl,
and hexyl. Exemplary branched side chains include, without
limitation, isopropyl, isobutyl, and tert-butyl. In one nonlimiting
embodiment, the branched side chain is --O--Si(CH.sub.3).sub.3.
Nonlimiting examples of silicones having branched side chains are
stearyl dimethicone and phyenyltrimethicone, cetyl dimethicone,
caprylyl methicone, PEG/PPG 18/18 dimethicone the structures of
which are as follows:
##STR00003##
[0148] In the above formulas m, n, x, and y may independently be
integers of 1 to 100, 1 to 80, 1 to 60, 1 to 50, 1 to 40, 1 to 30,
1 to 20, or 1 to 10. In some cases, the side chains are cyclic.
Cyclic side chains include aliphatic side chains and aromatic side
chains. A nonlimiting example of a cyclic side chain is phenyl.
[0149] With regard to silicones having hydrophilic or polar groups,
as described previously, silicones that are repulsive with regard
to the hydrophobic chains of the oil are thought to produce more
stable foams because they do not inhibit the
hydrophobic-hydrophobic interactions of the oil. Exemplary
hydrophilic or polar groups include oxygen-containing groups, such
as carbonyl groups, hydroxy groups, ether, ester, carboxylic
groups, which replace one or more methyl groups. The
hydrophilic/polar groups are present alternatively in the main
chain of the silicone or in a side chain. Nonlimiting examples of a
silicone having a hydrophilic group are PEG/PPG 18/18 dimethicone
and dimethiconol, the structures of which are:
##STR00004##
[0150] X, y, m, and n are as defined above, and R is a C.sub.1 to
C.sub.10 alkyl.
[0151] Another type of specific non limiting volatile silicone is a
volatile short chain linear alkylmethylsilicone fluid. The volatile
short chain linear alkylmethylsilicone fluid has the formula:
##STR00005##
[0152] In the above formula, the integer represented by n has a
value of five to twelve. Preferably, n has a value of five to
eight. Compounds include, for example,
3-hexyl-1,1,1,3,5,5,5-heptamethyltrisiloxane and
3-octyl-1,1,1,3,5,5,5-heptamethyltrisiloxane.
[0153] Yet another type of volatile silicone in accordance with the
present invention is a volatile short chain linear
phenylmethylsilicone fluid. The volatile short chain linear
phenylmethylsilicone fluid has the formula:
##STR00006##
[0154] This compound is
3-phenyl-1,1,1,3,4,4,4-heptamethyltrisiloxane. Further volatile
silicone fluids useful in the compositions described herein
include, without limitation, are decamethylcyclopentasiloxane
(DMCPS) which has a molecular weight of about 370, a refractive
index of 1.40, and the formula [(Me.sub.2)SiO].sub.5; the compound
3-hexyl-1,1,1,3,5,5,5-heptamethyltrisiloxane (HHMTS) which has a
molecular weight of about 306, and a refractive index of 1.41; and
the compound 3-phenyl-1,1,1,3,5,5,5-heptamethyltrisiloxane (PHMTS)
which has a molecular weight of about 298 and a refractive index of
1.45.
[0155] As amino silicone that may be used in the scope of the
instant disclosure, the following can be cited:
[0156] a) polysiloxanes corresponding to formula (A):
##STR00007##
[0157] in which x' and y' are integers such that the weight-average
molecular weight (Mw) is comprised between about 5000 and 500
000
[0158] b) amino silicones correspondingto formula (B):
R'.sub.aG.sub.3-a-Si(OSiG.sub.2)n-(OSiGbR'.sub.2-b)m-O-SiG.sub.3-a-R'.su-
b.a (B)
in which: [0159] G, which may be identical or different, designate
a hydrogen atom, or a phenyl, OH or C.sub.1-C.sub.8 alkyl group,
for example methyl, or C.sub.1-C.sub.8 alkoxy, for example methoxy,
[0160] a, which may be identical or different, denote the number 0
or an integer from 1 to 3, in particular 0; [0161] b denotes 0 or
1, and in particular 1; [0162] m and n are numbers such that the
sum (n+m) ranges from 1 to 2000 and in particular from 50 to 150,
it being possible for n to denote a number from 0 to 1999 and in
particular from 49 to 149, and for m to denote a number from 1 to
2000 and in particular from 1 to 10; [0163] R', which may be
identical or different, denote a monovalent radical having formula
-CqH.sub.2qL in which q is a number ranging from 2 to 8 and L is an
optionally quaternized amino group chosen from the following
groups: [0164] NR''-Q-N(R'').sub.2 [0165] N(R'').sub.2 [0166]
N+(R'').sub.3A- [0167] N+H(R'').sub.2A- [0168] N+H.sub.2(R'') A-
[0169] N(R'')-Q-N+R''H.sub.2A- [0170] NR''-Q-N+(R'').sub.2H A-
[0171] NR''-Q-N+(R'').sub.3A-,
[0172] in which R'', which may be identical or different, denote
hydrogen, phenyl, benzyl, or a saturated monovalent
hydrocarbon-based radical, for example a C.sub.1-C.sub.20 alkyl
radical; Q denotes a linear or branched CrH.sub.2r group, r being
an integer ranging from 2 to 6, preferably from 2 to 4; and A-
represents a cosmetically acceptable ion, in particular a halide
such as fluoride, chloride, bromide or iodide.
[0173] A group of amino silicones corresponding to this definition
(B) is represented by the silicones called
"trimethylsilylamodimethicone" having formula (C):
##STR00008##
[0174] in which n and m have the meanings given above, in formula
B.
[0175] Another group of amino silicones corresponding to this
definition is represented by silicones having the following
formulae (D) or (E):
##STR00009##
[0176] in which: [0177] m and n are numbers such that the sum (n+m)
can range from 1 to 1000, in particular from 50 to 250 and more
particularly from 100 to 200, it being possible for n to denote a
number from 0 to 999 and in particular from 49 to 249, and more
particularly from 125 to 175, and for m to denote a number from 1
to 1000 and in particular from 1 to 10, and more particularly from
1 to 5; [0178] R.sub.1, R.sub.2, R.sub.3, which may be identical or
different, represent a hydroxy or C.sub.1-C.sub.4 alkoxy radical,
where at least one of the radicals R.sub.1 to R.sub.3 denotes an
alkoxy radical.
[0179] The alkoxy radical is preferably a methoxy radical.
[0180] The hydroxy/alkoxy mole ratio ranges preferably from 0.2:1
to 0.4:1 and preferably from 0.25:1 to 0.35:1 and more particularly
equals 0.3:1.
[0181] The weight-average molecular weight (Mw) of the silicone
ranges preferably from 2000 to 1 000 000, more particularly from
3500 to 200 000.
##STR00010##
[0182] in which: [0183] p and q are numbers such that the sum (p+q)
ranges from 1 to 1000, particularly from 50 to 350, and more
particularly from 150 to 250; it being possible for p to denote a
number from 0 to 999 and in particular from 49 to 349, and more
particularly from 159 to 239 and for q to denote a number from 1 to
1000, in particular from 1 to 10, and more particularly from 1 to
5; [0184] R.sub.1, R.sub.2, which are different, represent a
hydroxy or C.sub.1-C.sub.4 alkoxy radical, where at least one of
the radicals R.sub.1 or R.sub.2 denotes an alkoxy radical.
[0185] The alkoxy radical is preferably a methoxy radical.
[0186] The hydroxy/alkoxy mole ratio ranges generally from 1:0.8 to
1:1.1 and preferably from 1:0.9 to 1:1 and more particularly equals
1:0.95.
[0187] The weight-average molecular weight (Mw) of the silicone
ranges preferably from 2000 to 200 000, even more particularly 5000
to 100 000 and more particularly from 10 000 to 50 000.
[0188] Commercial products corresponding to these silicones having
structure (D) or (E) may include in their composition one or more
other amino silicones whose structure is different than formulae
(D) or (E).
[0189] A product containing amino silicones having structure (D) is
sold by Wacker under the name Belsil.RTM. ADM 652.
[0190] A product containing amino silicones having structure (E) is
sold by Wacker under the name Fluid WR 1300.RTM..
[0191] When these amino silicones are used, one particularly
advantageous embodiment consists in using them in the form of an
oil-in-water emulsion. The oil-in-water emulsion may comprise one
or more surfactants. The surfactants may be of any nature but are
preferably cationic and/or nonionic. The number-average size of the
silicone particles in the emulsion generally ranges from 3 nm to
500 nanometres. Preferably, in particular as amino silicones having
formula (E), microemulsions are used whose average particle size
ranges from 5 nm to 60 nanometres (limits included) and more
preferably from 10 nm to 50 nanometres (limits included).
Accordingly, according to the invention the microemulsions of amino
silicone having formula (E) sold as Finish CT 96 E or SLM
28020.RTM. by Wacker can be used.
[0192] Another group of amino silicones corresponding to this
definition is represented by the following formula (F):
##STR00011##
[0193] in which: [0194] m and n are numbers such that the sum (n+m)
ranges from 1 to 2000 and in particular from 50 to 150, it being
possible for n to denote a number from 0 to 1999 and in particular
from 49 to 149, and form to denote a number from 1 to 2000 and in
particular from 1 to 10; [0195] A denotes a linear or branched
alkylene radical containing from 4 to 8 carbon atoms and preferably
4 carbon atoms. This radical is preferably linear.
[0196] The weight-average molecular weight (Mw) of these amino
silicones ranges preferably from 2000 to 1 000 000 and even more
particularly from 3500 to 200 000.
[0197] A preferred silicone of formula (F) is amodimethicone (INCI
name) sold under the tradename XIAMETER.RTM. MEM-8299 Cationic
Emulsion by Dow Corning.
[0198] Another group of amino silicones corresponding to this
definition is represented by the following formula (G):
##STR00012##
in which: [0199] m and n are numbers such that the sum (n+m) ranges
from 1 to 2000 and in particular from 50 to 150, it being possible
for n to denote a number from 0 to 1999 and in particular from 49
to 149, and form to denote a number from 1 to 2000 and in
particular from 1 to 10; [0200] A denotes a linear or branched
alkylene radical containing from 4 to 8 carbon atoms and preferably
4 carbon atoms. This radical is preferably branched.
[0201] The weight-average molecular weight (Mw) of these amino
silicones ranges preferably from 500 to 1 000 000 and even more
particularly from 1000 to 200 000.
[0202] A silicone having this formula is for example DC2-8566 Amino
Fluid by Dow Corning.
[0203] c) amino silicones corresponding to formula (H):
##STR00013##
[0204] in which: [0205] R.sub.5 represents a monovalent
hydrocarbon-based radical containing from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and
in particular a C.sub.1-C.sub.18 alkyl or C.sub.2-C.sub.18 alkenyl
radical, for example methyl; [0206] R.sub.6 represents a divalent
hydrocarbon-based radical, in particular a C.sub.1-C.sub.18
alkylene radical or a divalent C1-C.sub.18, for example
C.sub.1-C.sub.8, alkylenoxy radical linked to the Si via an SiC
bond; [0207] Q- is an anion such as a halide ion, in particular
chloride, or an organic acid salt (for example acetate); [0208] r
represents a mean statistical value from 2 to 20 and in particular
from 2 to 8; [0209] s represents a mean statistical value from 20
to 200 and in particular from 20 to 50.
[0210] Such amino silicones are described more particularly in
patent U.S. Pat. No. 4,185,087.
[0211] d) quaternary ammonium silicones having formula (I):
##STR00014##
[0212] in which: [0213] R.sub.7, which may be identical or
different, represent a monovalent hydrocarbon-based radical
containing from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular a
C.sub.1-C.sub.18 alkyl radical, a C.sub.2-C.sub.18 alkenyl radical
or a ring containing 5 or 6 carbon atoms, for example methyl;
[0214] R.sub.6 represents a divalent hydrocarbon-based radical, in
particular a C.sub.1-C.sub.18 alkylene radical or a divalent
C.sub.1-C.sub.18, for example C.sub.1-C.sub.8, alkylenoxy radical
linked to the Si via an SiC bond; [0215] R.sub.8, which may be
identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, a monovalent
hydrocarbon-based radical containing from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and
in particular a C.sub.1-C.sub.18 alkyl radical, a C.sub.2-C.sub.18
alkenyl radical or a --R.sub.6--NHCOR.sub.7 radical; [0216] X-- is
an anion such as a halide ion, in particular chloride, or an
organic acid salt (for example acetate); [0217] r represents a mean
statistical value from 2 to 200 and in particular from 5 to
100;
[0218] These silicones are described, for example, in patent
application EP-A 0 530 974.
[0219] e) amino silicones having formula (J):
##STR00015##
[0220] in which: [0221] R.sub.1, R.sub.2, R.sub.3 and R.sub.4,
which may be identical or different, denote a C.sub.1-C.sub.4 alkyl
radical or a phenyl group; [0222] R.sub.5 denotes a C1-C.sub.4
alkyl radical or a hydroxyl group; [0223] n is an integer ranging
from 1 to 5; [0224] m is an integer ranging from 1 to 5;
[0225] and in which x is chosen such that the amine number is
between 0.01 and 1 meq/g;
[0226] f) multiblockpolyoxyalkylenated amino silicones, of type
(AB)n, A being a polysiloxane block and B being a
polyoxyalkylenated block containing at least one amine group.
[0227] Said silicones are preferably constituted of repeating units
having the following general formulae:
[--(SiMe.sub.2O)SiMe.sub.2--R--N(R'')--R'--O(C.sub.2H.sub.4O)a(C.sub.3H.-
sub.4O).sub.b--R'--N(H)--R--]
or alternatively
[--(SiMe.sub.2O).sub.xSi
Me.sub.2--R--N(R'')--R'--O(C.sub.2H.sub.4O).sub.a(C.sub.3H.sub.6O).sub.b--
-]
[0228] in which: [0229] a is an integer greater than or equal to 1,
preferably ranging from 5 to 200, more particularly ranging from 10
to 100; [0230] b is an integer comprised between 0 and 200,
preferably ranging from 4 to 100, more particularly between from 5
and 30; [0231] x is an integer ranging from 1 to 10 000, more
particularly from 10 to 5000; [0232] R'' is a hydrogen atom or a
methyl; [0233] R, which may be identical or different, represent a
divalent linear or branched C.sub.2-C.sub.12 hydrocarbon-based
radical, optionally including one or more heteroatoms such as
oxygen; preferably, R denotes an ethylene radical, a linear or
branched propylene radical, a linear or branched butylene radical,
or a --CH.sub.2CH.sub.2CH.sub.2OCH(OH)CH.sub.2-- radical;
preferentially R denotes a
--CH.sub.2CH.sub.2CH.sub.2OCH(OH)CH.sub.2-- radical; [0234] R',
which may be identical or different, represent a divalent linear or
branched C.sub.2-C.sub.12 hydrocarbon-based radical, optionally
including one or more heteroatoms such as oxygen; preferably, R'
denotes an ethylene radical, a linear or branched propylene
radical, a linear or branched butylene radical, or a
--CH.sub.2CH.sub.2CH.sub.2OCH(OH)CH.sub.2-- radical; preferentially
R' denotes --CH(CH.sub.3)--CH.sub.2--.
[0235] The siloxane blocks preferably represent between 50 and 95
mol % of the total weight of the silicone, more particularly from
70 to 85 mol %.
[0236] The amine content is preferably between 0.02 and 0.5 meq/g
of copolymer in a 30% solution in dipropylene glycol, more
particularly between 0.05 and 0.2.
[0237] The weight-average molecular weight (Mw) of the silicone is
preferably comprised between 5000 and 1 000 000, more particularly
between 10 000 and 200 000.
[0238] Mention may be made especially of the silicones sold under
the names Silsof.TM. A-843 or Silsof.TM. A+ by Momentive.
[0239] g) the alkylamino silicones corresponding to formula (K)
below:
##STR00016##
[0240] in which: [0241] x and y are numbers ranging from 1 to 5000;
preferably, x ranges from 10 to 2000 and especially from 100 to
1000; preferably, y ranges from 1 to 100; [0242] R.sub.1 and
R.sub.2, which may be identical or different, preferably identical,
are linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl radicals,
comprising 6 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 24 carbon atoms
and especially 12 to 20 carbon atoms; [0243] A denotes a linear or
branched alkylene radical containing from 2 to 8 carbon atoms,
[0244] Preferably, A comprises 3 to 6 carbon atoms, especially 4
carbon atoms; preferably, A is branched. Mention may be made
especially of the following divalent radicals:
--CH.sub.2CH.sub.2CH.sub.2 and
--CH.sub.2CH(CH.sub.3)CH.sub.2--.
[0245] Preferably, R.sub.1 and R.sub.2, which may be identical or
different, are saturated linear alkyl radicals comprising 6 to 30
carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 24 carbon atoms and especially 12 to
20 carbon atoms; mention may be made in particular of dodecyl,
tetradecyl, pentadecyl, hexadecyl, heptadecyl, octadecyl, nonadecyl
and eicosyl radicals; and preferentially, R.sub.1 and R.sub.2,
which may be identical or different, are chosen from hexadecyl
(cetyl) and octadecyl (stearyl) radicals.
[0246] Preferentially, the silicone is of formula (K) with: [0247]
x ranging from 10 to 2000 and especially from 100 to 1000; [0248] y
ranging from 1 to 100;
[0249] A comprising 3 to 6 carbon atoms and especially 4 carbon
atoms; preferably, A is branched; and more particularly A is chosen
from the following divalent radicals: CH.sub.2CH.sub.2CH.sub.2 and
--CH.sub.2CH(CH.sub.3)CH.sub.2--; and [0250] R.sub.1 and R.sub.2,
which may be identical or different, being linear, saturated alkyl
radicals comprising 6 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 24 carbon
atoms and especially 12 to 20 carbon atoms; chosen in particular
from dodecyl, tetradecyl, pentadecyl, hexadecyl, heptadecyl,
octadecyl, nonadecyl and eicosyl radicals; preferentially, R.sub.1
and R.sub.2, which may be identical or different, being chosen from
hexadecyl (cetyl) and octadecyl (stearyl) radicals.
[0251] A preferred silicone of formula (K) is
bis-cetearylamodimethicone (INCI name).
[0252] Mention may be made especially of the silicone sold under
the name Silsoft.TM. AX by Momentive.
[0253] Preferably, the amino silicones according to the invention
are chosen from the amino silicones of formula (F). A preferred
silicone of formula (F) is amodimethicone (INCI name) sold under
the tradename XIAMETER.RTM. MEM-8299 Cationic Emulsion by Dow
Corning.
[0254] The total amount of the one or more silicones, if present,
may vary but is typically about 0.01 to about 15 wt. %, based on
the total weight of the hair-coloring composition/juice. In some
cases, the total amount of the one or more silicones is about 0.01
to about 10 wt. %, about 0.01 to about 8 wt. %, about 0.01 to about
5 wt. %, about 0.01 to about 3 wt. %, about 0.1 to about 15 wt. %,
about 0.1 to about 10 wt. %, or about 0.1 to about 5 wt. %, or
about 0.1 to about 3 wt. %, based on the total weight of the
hair-coloring composition/juice.
Water-Soluble Solvents
[0255] Non-The term "water-soluble solvent" is interchangeable with
the term "water-miscible solvent" and means a compound that at
25.degree. C. and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) has a
solubility of at least 50% in water. In some cases, the
water-soluble solvent has a solubility of at least 60%, 70%, 80%,
or 90% in water at 25.degree. C. and at atmospheric pressure (760
mmHg). Non-limiting examples of water-soluble solvents include, for
example, glycerin, alcohols (for example, C.sub.1-8 or C.sub.1-4
alcohols), organic solvents, polyols, glycols, and a mixture
thereof.
[0256] Non-limiting examples of water-soluble solvents include
lower monoalcohols and monomeric polyols. Non-limiting examples of
lower monoalcohols are those containing from 1 to 5 carbon atoms,
such as ethanol and isopropanol, glycols containing from 2 to 8
carbon atoms, such as ethylene glycol, propylene glycol,
1,3-butylene glycol and dipropylene glycol, C.sub.3 and C.sub.4
ketones and C.sub.2-C.sub.4 aldehydes.
[0257] Non-limiting examples of water-soluble organic solvents that
may be mentioned include linear or branched C.sub.2-C.sub.4
alkanols, such as ethanol and isopropanol; polyols and polyol
ethers, for instance 2-butoxyethanol, glycerol, propylene glycol,
dipropylene glycol, polyethylene glycols, propylene glycol
monomethyl ether, diethylene glycol monomethyl ether and monoethyl
ether, and also aromatic alcohols, for instance benzyl alcohol or
phenoxyethanol, and mixtures thereof. In some cases, glycerol is a
particularly preferred water soluble solvent.
[0258] In some cases, the one or more water-soluble solvents
include one or more monomeric polyols. Non-limiting examples of
monomeric polyols include glycerin, ethylene glycol, diethylene
glycol, triethylene glycol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol,
tripropylene glycol, 1,3-butanediol, 2,3-butanediol,
1,4-butanediol, 3-methyl-1,3-butanediol, 1,5-pentanediol,
1,6-hexanediol, 2-methyl-2,4-pentanediol, polyethylene glycol,
1,2,4-butanetriol, and 1,2,6-hexanetriol. Non-limiting examples of
monomeric polyols having one or more aliphatic diols include
2-ethyl-2-methyl-1,3-propanediol, 3,3-dimethyl-1,2-butanediol,
2,2-diethyl-1,3-propanediol, 2-methyl-2-propyl-1,3-propanediol,
2,4-dimethyl-2,4-pentanediol, 2,5-dimethyl-2,5-hexanediol,
5-hexene-1,2-diol, and 2-ethyl-1,3-hexanediol, and mixtures
thereof.
[0259] The total amount of the water-soluble solvent(s), if
present, in the hair-coloring compositions/juice can vary but is
typically about 0.01 to about 20 wt. %, based on the total weight
of the hair-coloring composition/juice. In some cases, the total
amount of the water-soluble solvent(s) is about 0.01 to about 15
wt. %, about 0.01 to about 10 wt. %, about 0.01 to about 5 wt. %,
0.1 to about 20 wt. %, about 0.1 to about 15 wt. %, about 0.1 to
about 10 wt. %, or about 0.1 to about 5 wt. %, based on the total
weight of the hair-coloring compositions/juice.
[0260] The pH of the hair-coloring compositions/juice can vary
greatly, for example, from about 2 to about 12, about 3 to about
11, or about 4 to about 10. In some instances, it may be preferable
to have an acidic pH, for example, of about 2 to below 7, about 3
to below 7, about 4 to below 7, about 2 to about 6, about 3 to
about 6, or about 4 to about 6.
Surfactants
[0261] The hair-coloring compositions/juice may include one or more
surfactants, for example, cationic, anionic, nonionic, and/or
amphoteric/zwitterionic surfactants. Surfactants are not required
but may be useful. In some instances, the hair-coloring
compositions/juice may be free or essentially free of surfactants.
The hair-coloring compositions/juice may be free or essentially
free of anionic surfactants and/or free or essentially free of
cationic surfactants and/or free of essentially free of
amphoteric/zwitterionic surfactants. The hair-coloring
compositions/juice may include as the only type of surfactant,
nonionic surfactants. Nonetheless, the hair-coloring
compositions/juice may be free or essentially free of nonionic
surfactants.
[0262] Examples of nonionic surfactants that may be used are
described, for example, in the Handbook of Surfactants by M. R.
Porter, published by Blackie & Son (Glasgow and London), 1991,
pp. 116-178, which is incorporated herein by reference in its
entirety. The nonionic surfactant may be alcohols, alpha-diols and
(C.sub.1-C.sub.24)alkylphenols, these compounds being
polyethoxylated, polypropoxylated and/or polyglycerolated, and
containing at least one fatty chain comprising, for example, from 8
to 18 carbon atoms, it being possible for the number of ethylene
oxide and/or propylene oxide groups to especially range from 2 to
50, and for the number of glycerol groups to especially range from
2 to 30.
[0263] Mention may also be made of copolymers of ethylene oxide and
propylene oxide, optionally oxyethylenated sorbitan fatty acid
esters, sucrose fatty acid esters, polyoxyalkylenated fatty acid
esters, polyoxyalkylenated fatty amides, optionally oxyalkylenated
alkyl(poly)glucosides, alkylglucoside esters, derivatives of
N-alkylglucamine and of N-acylmethylglucamine, aldobionamides,
amine oxides and (poly)oxyalkylenated silicones.
[0264] The nonionic surfactants are more particularly chosen from
monooxyalkylenated or polyoxyalkylenated and monoglycerolated or
polyglycerolated nonionic surfactants, and alkyl(poly)glucosides.
The oxyalkylene units are more particularly oxyethylene or
oxypropylene units, or a combination thereof, preferably
oxyethylene units.
[0265] Useful nonionic surfactants may include: oxyalkylenated
(C.sub.8-C.sub.24)alkylphenols; saturated or unsaturated, linear or
branched, oxyalkylenated C.sub.8-C.sub.40 alcohols; saturated or
unsaturated, linear or branched, oxyalkylenated C.sub.8-C.sub.30
amides; esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched,
C.sub.8-C.sub.30 acids and of polyethylene glycols; saturated or
unsaturated, oxyethylenated plant oils; condensates of ethylene
oxide and/or of propylene oxide, alone or as mixtures;
oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylenated silicones; and
alkyl(poly)glucosides.
[0266] As examples of monoglycerolated or polyglycerolated nonionic
surfactants, monoglycerolated or polyglycerolated C.sub.8-C.sub.40
alcohols are useable. In particular, the monoglycerolated or
polyglycerolated C.sub.8-C.sub.40 alcohols correspond to formula
(VIII) below:
R.sub.29O--[CH.sub.2--CH(CH.sub.2OH)--O].sub.m--H (VIII)
[0267] in which formula (VIII):
[0268] R.sub.29 represents a linear or branched C.sub.8-C.sub.40
and preferably C.sub.8-C.sub.30 alkyl or alkenyl radical; and
[0269] m represents a number ranging from 1 to 30, or from 1 to
10.
[0270] As examples of compounds of formula (VIII), mention may be
made of lauryl alcohol containing 4 mol of glycerol (INCI name:
Polyglyceryl-4 Lauryl Ether), lauryl alcohol containing 1.5 mol of
glycerol, oleyl alcohol containing 4 mol of glycerol (INCI name:
Polyglyceryl-4 Oleyl Ether), oleyl alcohol containing 2 mol of
glycerol (INCI name: Polyglyceryl-2 Oleyl Ether), cetearyl alcohol
containing 2 mol of glycerol, cetearyl alcohol containing 6 mol of
glycerol, oleocetyl alcohol containing 6 mol of glycerol, and
octadecanol containing 6 mol of glycerol.
[0271] The alcohol of formula (VIII) may represent a mixture of
alcohols in the same way that the value of m represents a
statistical value, which means that, in a commercial product,
several species of polyglycerolated fatty alcohols may coexist in
the form of a mixture.
[0272] The alkyl(poly)glycoside nonionic surfactant(s) may be
represented by formula (IX) below:
R.sub.30O--(R.sub.31O).sub.t(G).sub.v (IX)
[0273] in which:
[0274] R.sub.30 represents a saturated or unsaturated, linear or
branched alkyl group comprising from about 8 to 24 carbon atoms, or
an alkyiphenyl group in which the linear or branched alkyl group
comprises from 8 to 24 carbon atoms;
[0275] R.sub.31 represents an alkylene group containing from about
2 to 4 carbon atoms,
[0276] G represents a saccharide unit comprising from 5 to 6 carbon
atoms,
[0277] t denotes a value ranging from 0 to 10, or from 0 to 4,
and
[0278] v denotes a value ranging from 1 to 15.
[0279] In some cases, the alkyl(poly)glycoside nonionic
surfactant(s) correspond to formula (IX) in which:
[0280] R.sub.30 denotes a linear or branched, saturated or
unsaturated alkyl group containing from 8 to 18 carbon atoms,
[0281] G denotes glucose, fructose or galactose, preferably
glucose,
[0282] t denotes a value ranging from 0 to 3, and is preferably
equal to 0, and
[0283] R.sub.31 and v are as defined previously.
[0284] The degree of polymerization of the alkyl(poly)glucoside
nonionic surfactant(s), as represented, for example, by the index v
in formula (IX), ranges on average from 1 to 15, or from 1 to 4.
This degree of polymerization more particularly ranges from 1 to 2
and better still from 1.1 to 1.5, on average.
[0285] The glycoside bonds between the saccharide units are of 1.6
or 1.4 type and preferably of 1.4 type.
[0286] Examples of compounds of formula (IX) that may especially be
mentioned are the products sold by the company Cognis under the
names Plantaren.RTM. (600 CS/U, 1200 and 2000) or Plantacare.RTM.
(818, 1200 and 2000). Use may also be made of the products sold by
the company SEPPIC under the names Triton CG 110 (or Oramix CG 110)
and Triton CG 312 (or Oramix.RTM. NS 10), the products sold by the
company BASF under the name Lutensol GD 70 or the products sold by
the company Chem Y under the name AG10 LK. Use may also be made,
for example, of the 1,4-(C.sub.8-C.sub.16)alkylpolyglucoside as an
aqueous solution at 53% by weight relative to the total weight of
the solution, sold by Cognis under the reference Plantacare 818
UP.
[0287] The total amount of surfactants in the hair-coloring
compositions/juice, if present may be from about 0.01 to about 10
wt. %, based on the total weight of the hair-coloring
composition/juice. The total amount of surfactants may be about
0.01 to about 8 wt. %, about 0.01 to about 5 wt. %, about 0.01 to
about 3 wt. %, about 0.1 to about 10 wt. %, about 0.1 to about 8
wt. %, about 0.1 to about 5 wt. %, or about 0.1 to about 3 wt. %,
based on the total weight of the hair-coloring
compositions/juice.
EMBODIMENTS
[0288] In certain embodiments, the instant disclosure relates to a
hair coloring composition comprising: [0289] (a) about 0.01 to
about 15 wt. %, preferably about 0.05 to about 10 wt. %, more
preferably about 0.1 to about 5 wt. % of at least one direct dye
selected from nitro-phenylenediamines, nitro-aminophenols, azo
dyes, anthraquinones, triarylmethane dyes, indophenols, and a
mixture thereof; [0290] (b) about 0.1 to about 25 wt. %, preferably
about 1 to about 15 wt. %, more preferably about 1 to about 8 wt. %
of at least one nonionic film forming polymer for example, film
forming polymers selected from polyalkyloxazolines; vinyl acetate
homopolymers; vinyl acetate copolymers; homopolymers and copolymers
of acrylic esters; copolymers of acrylonitrile and a nonionic
monomer; styrene homopolymers; styrene copolymers (for instance
copolymers of styrene and of an alkyl (meth)acrylate; copolymers of
styrene, of alkyl methacrylate and of alkyl acrylate; copolymers of
styrene and of butadiene; or copolymers of styrene, of butadiene
and of vinylpyridine; polyamides; vinylpyrrolidone homopolymers;
copolymer of vinylpyrrolidone and vinyl acetate monomers;
vinyllactam homopolymers including and polyvinylcaprolactam; and
vinyllactam copolymers, such as poly(vinylpyrrolidone/vinyllactam)
copolymer, poly(vinylpyrrolidone/vinyl acetate) copolymers;
poly(vinylpyrrolidone/vinyl acetate/vinyl propionate) terpolymers;
and a mixture thereof, preferably copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone
and vinyl acetate monomers and/or vinylpyrrolidone homopolymers,
for example, VP/VA copolymer (or PVP/VA copolymer), PVP, or a
mixture thereof; [0291] (c) about 0.01 to about 10 wt. %,
preferably about 0.05 to about 5 wt. %, more preferably about 0.1
to about 3 wt. % of at least one thickening agent, preferably at
least one anionic and/or nonionic thickening polymer, preferably
one or more nonionic thickening agents selected from
polysaccharides, modified or unmodified starches, amylose,
amylopectin, glycogen, dextrans, celluloses, cellulose derivatives,
xylans, glucans, arabans, galactans, chitin, agars, locust bean
gums, mannans, and a mixture thereof and/or one or more anionic
thickening agents selected from polyacrylate-3, carbomers,
acrylates/C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymers, acrylates/C10-30
alkyl acrylate crosspolymer, AMP-acrylates/allyl methacrylate
copolymer, polyacrylate crosspolymer-6, a crosslinked methacrylic
acid/ethyl acrylate copolymer (acrylates copolymer), and a mixture
thereof (preferably polyacrylate-3); [0292] (d) at least 40 wt. %,
preferably at least 45 wt. % to about 85 wt. %, more preferably at
least 50 wt. % or about 80 wt. % of water; and [0293] (e) 40 wt. %
or less, preferably 35 wt. % or less, more preferably 30 wt. % or
less of ethanol; [0294] (f) optionally, about 0.01 to about 15 wt.
%, preferably about 0.05 to about 10 wt. %, and more preferably
about 0.1 to about 5 wt. % of one or more silicones, for examples,
polyorganosiloxanes, polyalkylsiloxanes, polyarylsiloxanes,
polyalkarylsiloxanes, polyestersiloxanes, and a mixture thereof,
preferably, one or more silicones selected from dimethicone,
cyclomethicone, amodimethicone, trimethyl silyl amodimethicone,
phenyl trimethicone, trimethyl siloxy silicate, and mixtures
thereof; [0295] wherein the weight ratio of water to ethanol
(water:ethanol) is about 1:1 to about 5:1, preferably about 2:1 to
about 5:1, more preferably about 2:1 to about 4:1; [0296] the total
amount of volatile organic compounds (VOC) is less than 55 wt. %,
preferably less than 50 wt. %, more preferably less than 45 wt. %;
and [0297] all percentages by weight are based on the total weight
of the hair coloring composition.
[0298] In certain embodiments, the instant disclosure relates to an
aerosol hair-coloring product comprising a container/canister, the
container/canister comprising: [0299] about 10 to about 60 wt. %,
preferably about 15 to about 55 wt. %, more preferably about 20 to
about 50 wt. % of a vapor phase comprising a propellant, for
example, one or more propellants selected from the group consisting
of dimethyl ether, propane, n-butane, isobutene, and a mixture
thereof (preferably dimethyl ether), wherein the weight percent is
based on the total weight of the hair-coloring composition (juice)
and propellant (i.e., the total weight of the content inside of a
container or canister that houses the hair-coloring juice phase and
the propellant(s)); and [0300] a hair coloring juice phase
comprising: [0301] (a) about 0.01 to about 15 wt. %, preferably
about 0.05 to about 10 wt. %, more preferably about 0.1 to about 5
wt. %, based on the total weight of the juice phase, of at least
one direct dye selected from nitro-phenylenediamines,
nitro-aminophenols, azo dyes, anthraquinones, triarylmethane dyes,
indophenols, and a mixture thereof; [0302] (b) about 0.1 to about
25 wt. %, preferably about 1 to about 15 wt. %, more preferably
about 1 to about 8 wt. %, based on the total weight of the juice
phase, of at least one nonionic film forming polymer for example,
film forming polymers selected from polyalkyloxazolines; vinyl
acetate homopolymers; vinyl acetate copolymers; homopolymers and
copolymers of acrylic esters; copolymers of acrylonitrile and a
nonionic monomer; styrene homopolymers; styrene copolymers (for
instance copolymers of styrene and of an alkyl (meth)acrylate;
copolymers of styrene, of alkyl methacrylate and of alkyl acrylate;
copolymers of styrene and of butadiene; or copolymers of styrene,
of butadiene and of vinylpyridine; polyamides; vinylpyrrolidone
homopolymers; copolymer of vinylpyrrolidone and vinyl acetate
monomers; vinyllactam homopolymers including and
polyvinylcaprolactam; and vinyllactam copolymers, such as
poly(vinylpyrrolidone/vinyllactam) copolymer,
poly(vinylpyrrolidone/vinyl acetate) copolymers;
poly(vinylpyrrolidone/vinyl acetate/vinyl propionate) terpolymers;
and a mixture thereof, preferably copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone
and vinyl acetate monomers and/or vinylpyrrolidone homopolymers,
for example, VP/VA copolymer (or PVP/VA copolymer), PVP, or a
mixture thereof; [0303] (c) about 0.01 to about 10 wt. %,
preferably about 0.05 to about 5 wt. %, more preferably about 0.1
to about 3 wt. %, based on the total weight of the juice phase, of
at least one thickening agent, preferably at least one anionic
and/or nonionic thickening polymer, preferably one or more nonionic
thickening agents selected from polysaccharides, modified or
unmodified starches, amylose, amylopectin, glycogen, dextrans,
celluloses, cellulose derivatives, xylans, glucans, arabans,
galactans, chitin, agars, locust bean gums, mannans, and a mixture
thereof and/or one or more anionic thickening agents selected from
polyacrylate-3, carbomers, acrylates/C10-30 alkyl acrylate
crosspolymers, acrylates/C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer,
AMP-acrylates/allyl methacrylate copolymer, polyacrylate
crosspolymer-6, a crosslinked methacrylic acid/ethyl acrylate
copolymer (acrylates copolymer), and a mixture thereof (preferably
polyacrylate-3); [0304] (d) at least 40 wt. %, preferably at least
45 wt. % to about 85 wt. %, more preferably at least 50 wt. % or
about 80 wt. %, based on the total weight of the juice phase, of
water; and [0305] (e) 40 wt. % or less, preferably 35 wt. % or
less, more preferably 30 wt. %, based on the total weight of the
juice phase, or less of ethanol; [0306] (f) optionally, about 0.01
to about 15 wt. %, preferably about 0.05 to about 10 wt. %, and
more preferably about 0.1 to about 5 wt. %, based on the total
weight of the juice phase, of one or more silicones, for examples,
polyorganosiloxanes, polyalkylsiloxanes, polyarylsiloxanes,
polyalkarylsiloxanes, polyestersiloxanes, and a mixture thereof,
preferably, one or more silicones selected from dimethicone,
cyclomethicone, amodimethicone, trimethyl silyl amodimethicone,
phenyl trimethicone, trimethyl siloxy silicate, and mixtures
thereof; [0307] wherein the weight ratio of water to ethanol
(water:ethanol) is about 1:1 to about 5:1, preferably about 2:1 to
about 5:1, more preferably about 2:1 to about 4:1; [0308] the total
amount of volatile organic compounds (VOC) is less than 55 wt. %,
preferably less than 50 wt. %, more preferably less than 45 wt. %,
based on the total weight of the hair-coloring juice phase.
[0309] In certain embodiments, the instant disclosure relates to an
aerosol hair-coloring product comprising a container/canister, the
container/canister comprising: [0310] about 10 to about 60 wt. %,
preferably about 15 to about 55 wt. %, more preferably about 20 to
about 50 wt. % of a vapor phase comprising a propellant, for
example, one or more propellants selected from the group consisting
of dimethyl ether, propane, n-butane, isobutene, and a mixture
thereof (preferably dimethyl ether), wherein the weight percent is
based on the total weight of the hair-coloring composition (juice)
and propellant (i.e., the total weight of the content inside of a
container or canister that houses the hair-coloring juice phase and
the propellant(s)); and [0311] a hair coloring juice phase
comprising: [0312] (a) about 0.01 to about 15 wt. %, preferably
about 0.05 to about 10 wt. %, more preferably about 0.1 to about 5
wt. %, based on the total weight of the juice phase, of at least
one direct dye selected from nitro-phenylenediamines,
nitro-aminophenols, azo dyes, anthraquinones, triarylmethane dyes,
indophenols, and a mixture thereof; [0313] (b) about 0.1 to about
25 wt. %, preferably about 1 to about 15 wt. %, more preferably
about 1 to about 8 wt. %, based on the total weight of the juice
phase, of at least one nonionic film forming polymer selected from
VP/VA copolymer (or PVP/VA copolymer), PVP, or a mixture thereof;
[0314] (c) about 0.01 to about 10 wt. %, preferably about 0.05 to
about 5 wt. %, more preferably about 0.1 to about 3 wt. %, based on
the total weight of the juice phase, of at least one anionic
thickening agents selected from polyacrylate-3, carbomers,
acrylates/C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymers, acrylates/C10-30
alkyl acrylate crosspolymer, AMP-acrylates/allyl methacrylate
copolymer, polyacrylate crosspolymer-6, a crosslinked methacrylic
acid/ethyl acrylate copolymer (acrylates copolymer), and a mixture
thereof (preferably polyacrylate-3); [0315] (d) at least 40 wt. %,
preferably at least 45 wt. % to about 85 wt. %, more preferably at
least 50 wt. % or about 80 wt. %, based on the total weight of the
juice phase, of water; and [0316] (e) 40 wt. % or less, preferably
35 wt. % or less, more preferably 30 wt. %, based on the total
weight of the juice phase, or less of ethanol; [0317] (f)
optionally, about 0.01 to about 15 wt. %, preferably about 0.05 to
about 10 wt. %, and more preferably about 0.1 to about 5 wt. %,
based on the total weight of the juice phase, of one or more
silicones selected from dimethicone, cyclomethicone,
amodimethicone, trimethyl silyl amodimethicone, phenyl
trimethicone, trimethyl siloxy silicate, and mixtures thereof;
[0318] wherein the weight ratio of water to ethanol (water:ethanol)
is about 1:1 to about 5:1, preferably about 2:1 to about 5:1, more
preferably about 2:1 to about 4:1; [0319] the total amount of
volatile organic compounds (VOC) is less than 55 wt. %, preferably
less than 50 wt. %, more preferably less than 45 wt. %, based on
the total weight of the hair-coloring juice phase.
[0320] Implementation of the present disclosure is provided by way
of the following examples. The examples serve to illustrate the
technology without being limiting in nature.
Example 1
Inventive Aerosol Hair-Coloring Products
TABLE-US-00001 [0321] A B (wt. %) (wt. %) INCI US Red Red Direct
Dyes BASIC RED 51 & .ltoreq.1 .ltoreq.1 BASIC YELLOW 87
Nonionic Film Former VP/VA COPOLYMER 2 PVP 0.3 Thickening Agent
POLYACRYLATE-3 0.2 0.2 (anionic) Ethanol ALCOHOL DENAT. 16.3 16.3
Water WATER 45.6 47.3 Silicones DIMETHICONE & BIS- 0.5 0.5
PEG/PPG-14/14 DIMETHICONE Filler XYLOSE 0.01 0.01 Miscellaneous
SALTS, PH .ltoreq.2 .ltoreq.2 ADJUSTERS, BUFFERING AGENT,
PRESERVATIVES, ETC. Propellant DIMETHYL ETHER 35 35
Example 2
Influence of Water/Ethanol--Color Uptake
TABLE-US-00002 [0322] C D E F G H (wt. %) (wt. %) (wt. %) (wt. %)
(wt. %) (wt. %) INCI US Red Red Red Magenta Magenta Magenta Direct
Dyes HC BLUE NO. 15 & .ltoreq.1 .ltoreq.1 .ltoreq.1 BASIC RED
51 BASIC YELLOW 87 & .ltoreq.1 .ltoreq.1 .ltoreq.1 BASIC RED 51
Nonionic VP/VA COPOLYMER 3 3 3 3 3 3 Film Former Thickening
HYDROXYETHYL- 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 Agent CELLULOSE (nonionic)
Ethanol ALCOHOL DENAT. 25 37.5 50 25 37.5 50 Water WATER 70 58 45
71 58 46 Silicone DIMETHICONE & 0.8 0.8 0.8 0.8 0.8 0.8
BIS-PEG/PPG-14/14 DIMETHICONE Filler XYLOSE 0.02 0.02 0.02 0.02
0.02 0.02 Misc. SALTS, PH .ltoreq.2 .ltoreq.2 .ltoreq.2 .ltoreq.2
.ltoreq.2 .ltoreq.2 ADJUSTERS, BUFFERING AGENT, PRESERVATIVES,
ETC.
[0323] Testing was carried out to determine the influence of water
and ethanol on color uptake. Compositions C, D, and E are red
coloring compositions (juice) that are identical except for the
amounts of ethanol and water. Composition C includes 25 wt. % of
ethanol (and 70 wt. % of water), Composition D includes 37.% wt. %
of ethanol (and 58 wt. % of water), and composition E includes 50
wt. % of ethanol (and 45 wt. % of water). Compositions F, G, and H
are magenta coloring compositions (juice) that are also identical
except for the amounts of ethanol and water. Composition F includes
25 wt. % of ethanol (and 71 wt. % of water), Composition G includes
37.5 wt. % of ethanol (and 58 wt. % of water), and Composition H
includes 50 wt. % of ethanol (and 46 wt. % of water).
[0324] About 5 grams of each hair coloring composition (juice) was
applied to swatches of yak hair. Yak hair is commonly used in
industry for testing hair-coloring compositions because it is pure
white, virgin, and clearly shows differences between coloring
formulations without background influences. The hair coloring
compositions (juice) were applied to the hair swatches and allowed
to process for 20 minutes (i.e., the coloring composition was
allowed to remain on the hair at room temperature for 20 minutes).
After 20 minutes, the hair swatches were rinsed with water while
passing fingers through the hair (10 passes).
[0325] The hair swatches then were evaluated using the CIE L* a* b*
system using a Minolta Spectrophotometer CM3600D colorimeter. In
the L* a* b* system, the three parameters simply denote,
respectively, the color intensity (L*), the green/red color axis
(a*) and the blue/yellow color axis (b*). The L*a*b* colorimetric
system is a colorimetric system that assigns each color to a
position in a spherical color space. The brightness is represented
by a position in the ordinate (z-axis) direction, the hue is
represented by a position in the circumferential direction, and the
chroma is represented by a distance from the center axis. The
position on the ordinate (z-axis) representing brightness is
designated by L*, and the L* value changes from 0 corresponding to
black to 100 corresponding to white. The positive direction of the
x-axis corresponds to a red direction, the positive direction of
the y-axis corresponds to a yellow direction, the negative
direction of the x-axis corresponds to a green direction, the
negative direction of the y-axis corresponds to a blue direction,
and the position on the x-axis is designated by a* of which value
changes from -60 to +60 and the position on the y-axis is
designated by b* of which value changes from -60 to +60. The hue
and chroma are represented by a* value and b* value,
respectively.
[0326] A lower L* represents a darker color (greater
intensity).
[0327] The difference in overall coloring between colored hair
swatches is defined by (.DELTA.E*) according to the following
equation:
.DELTA.E*= {square root over
((L*-L.sub.o*).sup.2+(a*-a.sub.o).sup.2+(b*-b.sub.o*).sup.2)}
[0328] In this equation, L*, a* and b* represent the values
measured on colored (treated) hair swatches and L.sub.0*, a.sub.0*
and b.sub.0* represent the values measured on uncolored (untreated)
hair swatches or hair swatches treated with a different
composition. This allow for quantification of differences in color
(color uptake or color retention) between untreated versus treated
hair swatches or between different samples of treated hair
swatches. Typically, a .DELTA.E* value (or simply .DELTA.E) of 2 or
greater between two samples is noticeable with the naked eye
(human). The results are presented in the table below.
TABLE-US-00003 Red C D E (25% (37.5% (50% EtOH) EtOH) EtOH)
.DELTA.L*.sub.Yak = L*.sub.(Yak) - L*.sub.((C), (D), or (E)) 49.4
47.6 45.6 .DELTA.L*.sub.comparative = L*.sub.(C) - L*.sub.((D) or
(E)) Baseline 1.8 3.8 .DELTA.E* = E*.sub.(C) - E*.sub.((D) or (E))
Baseline 2.5 3.9
TABLE-US-00004 Magenta F G H (25% (37.5% (50% EtOH) EtOH) EtOH)
.DELTA.L*.sub.Yak = L*.sub.(Yak) - L*.sub.((C), (D), or (E)) 56.9
53.7 48.4 .DELTA.L*.sub.comparative = L*.sub.(C) - L*.sub.((D) or
(E)) Baseline 3.3 8.6 .DELTA.E* = E*.sub.(C) - E*.sub.((D) or (E))
Baseline 6.1 14.3
[0329] The data show that the color intensity (.DELTA.L*) and
overall color uptake (.DELTA.E*) was significantly better for
Compositions C and F, which had the lowest amount of ethanol (25
wt. %) and the highest amount of water (about 70 wt. %). As the
amount of ethanol increased (and the amount of water decreased) the
color intensity and overall color uptake worsened. Thus, the data
show that replacing ethanol with water (to decrease the amount of
ethanol and increase the amount of water) surprisingly improves
color intensity and overall color uptake of direct dyes.
Example 3
Comparative Testing--Tenacity
TABLE-US-00005 [0330] I C-I J C-J (wt. %) (wt. %) (wt. %) (wt. %)
INCI US Red Red Magenta Magenta Direct Dye BASIC YELLOW 87 &
.ltoreq.1 .ltoreq.1 BASIC RED 51 BASIC RED 51 & .ltoreq.1
.ltoreq.1 HYDROXYANTHRAQUINONE- AMINOPROPYL METHYL MORPHOLINIUM
METHOSULFATE Nonionic Film VP/VA COPOLYMER 3 3 Former Thickening
HYDROXYETHYLCELLULOSE 0.5 0.2 0.5 0.2 Agent (nonionic) GUAR
HYDROXYPROPYL- 0.1 0.1 TRIMONIUM CHLORIDE (cationic) Ethanol
ALCOHOL DENAT. 25 25 Water WATER 70.2 90.1 70.5 90.5 Silicones
DIMETHICONE, 0.8 1.1 0.8 1.1 BIS-PEG/PPG-14/14 DIMETHICONE, AND/OR
AMODIMETHICONE Water- ISOPROPYL ALCOHOL 0.5 0.5 Soluble Solvent
Cationic CETRIMONIUM CHLORIDE & 2.1 2.1 Surfactant
BEHENTRIMONIUM CHLORIDE Nonionic TRIDECETH-6 0.1 0.1 Surfactant
Fatty Alcohol CETYL ALCOHOL & 4.8 4.8 CETEARYL ALCOHOL
Conditioning 2-OLEAMIDO-1,3- 0.01 0.01 Agent OCTADECANEDIOL Filler
XYLOSE 0.02 0.02 Miscellaneous SALTS, PH ADJUSTERS, .ltoreq.3
.ltoreq.3 .ltoreq.3 .ltoreq.3 BUFFERING AGENT, PRESERVATIVES,
ETC.
[0331] Testing was carried out to investigate the tenacity
(long-term durability/hold) of the hair coloring compositions in
the table above. Compositions I and J are inventive compositions
(juice) that can be combined with propellant to create aerosol
hair-coloring products. Compositions C-I and C-J are commercial
benchmark products that are sold as direct dye creams. Testing was
carried to investigate the tenacity of the inventive hair coloring
compositions (juice) in comparison to the tenacity of the
commercial benchmark direct dye creams. To ensure that any coloring
differences between Inventive compositions I and J and the
commercial benchmark compositions C-I and C-J is not due to
different types and amounts of direct dyes, the same types and
amounts of direct dyes were included in both. Compositions I and
C-I include both basic yellow-87 and basic red-51 in the same
amount. Compositions J and C-J include both basic red-51 and
hydroxyanthraquinoneaminopropyl methyl morpholinium methosulfate in
the same amount.
[0332] About 5 grams of each hair coloring composition from the
table above was applied to swatches of yak hair. The hair coloring
compositions were applied to the hair swatches and allowed to
process for 20 minutes (i.e., the coloring compositions were
allowed to remain on the hair at room temperature for 20 minutes).
After 20 minutes, the hair swatches were rinsed with water while
passing fingers through the hair swatches (10 passes). After
rinsing, the hair swatches were shampooed 6 times using 0.4 g of
shampoo per 1 gram of Yak hair.
[0333] After shampooing 6 times, the hair swatches were evaluated
using the CIE L* a* b* system described above in Example 2. The
results are presented in the tables below.
TABLE-US-00006 Red I C-I .DELTA.L*.sub.comparative = L*.sub.(0) -
L*.sub.(6 washes) 1.2 1 .DELTA.E = E*.sub.(o) - E*.sub.(6 washes)
1.3 1.1
TABLE-US-00007 Magenta J C-J .DELTA.*.sub.comparative = L.sub.(0) -
L*.sub.(6 washes) 2.6 2.5 .DELTA.E* = E*.sub.(o) - E*.sub.(6
washes) 3.9 3.5
[0334] The data show that Inventive Compositions I and J exhibited
similar tenacity to the commercial benchmark compositions C-I and
C-J. Compositions I and J exhibited long lasting tenacity with
reductions in color intensity (.DELTA.L*) and overall color uptake
(.DELTA.E) similar to that exhibited by the commercial benchmark
compositions.
[0335] The terms "comprising," "having," and "including" are used
in their open, non-limiting sense.
[0336] The terms "a" and "the" encompass the plural as well as the
singular.
[0337] The compositions and methods of the present disclosure can
comprise, consist of, or consist essentially of the essential
elements and limitations set forth in the instant disclosure, as
well as any additional or optional ingredients, components, or
limitations described herein or that are otherwise useful.
[0338] All percentages, parts and ratios set forth herein are based
upon the total weight of the compositions, unless otherwise
indicated.
[0339] All ranges and values disclosed herein are inclusive and
combinable. For examples, any value or point described herein that
falls within a range described herein can serve as a minimum or
maximum value to derive a sub-range, etc. Furthermore, all ranges
provided are meant to include every specific range within, and
combination of sub-ranges between, the given ranges. Thus, a range
from 1-5, includes specifically 1, 2, 3, 4 and 5, as well as sub
ranges such as 2-5, 3-5, 2-3, 2-4, 1-4, etc.
[0340] Other than in the operating examples, or where otherwise
indicated, all numbers expressing quantities of ingredients and/or
reaction conditions may be modified in all instances, especially in
the claims, by the term "about," meaning within +/-5% of the
indicated number.
[0341] As used herein, the expression "at least one" is
interchangeable with the expression "one or more" and thus includes
individual components as well as mixtures/combinations.
[0342] The term treat" (and its grammatical variations) as used
herein refers to the application of the compositions of the present
disclosure onto the surface of hair. The term `treat" (and its
grammatical variations) as used herein also refers to contacting
hair with the hair treatment compositions of the present
disclosure.
[0343] The compositions described throughout this disclosure may be
a "rinse-off" product. A "rinse-off" product refers to a
composition such as a hair treatment composition that is rinsed
and/or washed with water either after or during the application of
the composition onto the hair, and before drying and/or styling the
hair. At least a portion of the composition is removed from the
keratinous substrate during the rinsing and/or washing process.
[0344] The compositions described throughout this disclosure may be
a "leave-on" product. A "leave-on" (also called leave-in) product
refers to a hair treatment composition that is applied to hair and
is not subjected to immediate rinsing and/or washing for at least 4
hours or for a period of time ranging from 4 hours up to 72 hours,
from 4 hours up to 48 hours, or from 8 hours up to 36 hours, or
from 8 hours up to 24 hours. In other words, the product is applied
to the hair and remains on the hair, as styled.
[0345] The term "substantially free" or "essentially free" as used
herein means that there is less than about 2% by weight of a
specific material added to a composition, based on the total weight
of the compositions. Nonetheless, the compositions may include less
than about 1 wt. %, less than about 0.5 wt. %, less than about 0.1
wt. %, less than 0.01 wt. %, or none of the specified material.
[0346] The term "active material" as used herein with respect to
the percent amount of an ingredient or raw material, refers to 100%
activity of the ingredient or raw material.
[0347] "Cosmetically acceptable" means that the item in question is
compatible with a keratinous substrate such as skin and hair. For
example, a "cosmetically acceptable carrier" means a carrier that
is compatible with a keratinous substrate such as skin and
hair.
[0348] Throughout the disclosure, the term "a mixture thereof" may
be used following a list of elements as shown in the following
example where letters A-F represent the elements: "one or more
elements selected from the group consisting of A, B, C, D, E, F,
and a mixture thereof." The term, "a mixture thereof" does not
require that the mixture include all of A, B, C, D, E, and F
(although all of A, B, C, D, E, and F may be included). Rather, it
indicates that a mixture of any two or more of A, B, C, D, E, and F
can be included. In other words, it is equivalent to the phrase
"one or more elements selected from A, B, C, D, E, F, and a mixture
of any two or more of A, B, C, D, E, and F."
[0349] Likewise, the term "a salt thereof" also relates to "salts
thereof." Thus, where the disclosure refers to "an element selected
from the group consisting of A, B, C, D, E, F, a salt thereof, and
a mixture thereof," it indicates that that one or more of A, B, C,
D, and F may be included, one or more of a salt of A, a salt of B,
a salt of C, a salt of D, a salt of E, and a salt of F may be
included, or a mixture of any two of A, B, C, D, E, F, a salt of A,
a salt of B, a salt of C, a salt of D, a salt of E, and a salt of F
may be included.
[0350] The cosmetically acceptable counter-ions mentioned
throughout the disclosure may include, for example, an alkali
metal, alkaline earth metal, methylsulfate, or ammonium
counter-ion. This list of counter-ions, however, is
non-limiting.
[0351] The expression "inclusive" for a range of concentrations
means that the limits of the range are included in the defined
interval.
[0352] "Volatile", as used herein, means having a flash point of
less than about 100.degree. C.
[0353] "Non-volatile", as used herein, means having a flash point
of greater than about 100.degree. C.
[0354] "Non-oxidative" means that the hair-coloring composition (or
juice or product) does not require oxidizing agents (such as, for
example, hydrogen peroxide) to chemically change the color of the
hair. A hair-coloring composition (or juice or product) that is
"free of oxidizing agents that alter the color of hair" may include
substances that have the ability to oxidize other substances, but
the aqueous coloring compositions do not rely on this mode of
action to achieve the desired coloring of the hair. In other words,
the hair-coloring composition (or juice or product) is not
considered an oxidative the hair-coloring composition (or juice or
product) as understood by those in the art.
[0355] The term "polymers," as defined herein, include homopolymers
and copolymers formed from at least two different types of
monomers.
[0356] The term "INCI" is an abbreviation of International
Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients, which is a system of names
provided by the International Nomenclature Committee of the
Personal Care Products Council to describe personal care
ingredients.
[0357] All components and elements positively set forth in this
disclosure can be negatively excluded from the claims. In other
words, the compositions of the instant disclosure can optionally be
free or essentially free of all components, elements, and steps
positively recited throughout the instant disclosure.
[0358] As used herein, all ranges provided are meant to include
every specific range within, and combination of sub ranges between,
the given ranges. Thus, a range from 1-5, includes specifically 1,
2, 3, 4 and 5, as well as sub ranges such as 2-5, 3-5, 2-3, 2-4,
1-4, etc.
[0359] Some of the various categories of components identified may
overlap. In such cases where overlap may exist and the composition
includes both components (or the composition includes more than two
components that overlap), an overlapping component does not
represent more than one component. For example, a fatty acid may be
characterized as both a nonionic surfactant and a fatty compound.
If a particular composition includes both a nonionic surfactant and
a fatty compound, a single fatty acid will serve as only the
nonionic surfactant or only the fatty compound (the single fatty
acid does not serve as both the nonionic surfactant and the fatty
compound).
[0360] All publications, patent applications, and journal articles
cited in this specification are herein incorporated by reference,
and for any and all purposes, as if each individual publication
were specifically and individually indicated to be incorporated by
reference. In the event of an inconsistency between the present
disclosure and any publications incorporated herein by reference,
the present disclosure controls.
* * * * *