U.S. patent application number 16/578040 was filed with the patent office on 2020-03-26 for gel texturizer base for cosmetics.
The applicant listed for this patent is Juice Beauty, Inc.. Invention is credited to Karen Behnke, Mimi Lu, Diahne Patnode.
Application Number | 20200093728 16/578040 |
Document ID | / |
Family ID | 69884302 |
Filed Date | 2020-03-26 |
United States Patent
Application |
20200093728 |
Kind Code |
A1 |
Lu; Mimi ; et al. |
March 26, 2020 |
Gel Texturizer Base for Cosmetics
Abstract
This invention provides for a gel texturizer base for cosmetic
products. The bases are excipients that provide a gel-like texture
to cosmetic products. The gel texturizer bases of this invention
are from non-petroleum based products and comprise over 85% juice
derived solvent with the balance being a combination of a texture
enhancer and a gum texture modifier.
Inventors: |
Lu; Mimi; (San Rafael,
CA) ; Behnke; Karen; (San Rafael, CA) ;
Patnode; Diahne; (San Rafael, CA) |
|
Applicant: |
Name |
City |
State |
Country |
Type |
Juice Beauty, Inc. |
San Rafael |
CA |
US |
|
|
Family ID: |
69884302 |
Appl. No.: |
16/578040 |
Filed: |
September 20, 2019 |
Related U.S. Patent Documents
|
|
|
|
|
|
Application
Number |
Filing Date |
Patent Number |
|
|
62734790 |
Sep 21, 2018 |
|
|
|
Current U.S.
Class: |
1/1 |
Current CPC
Class: |
A61K 8/922 20130101;
A61Q 19/00 20130101; A61K 8/31 20130101; A61K 8/345 20130101; A61K
8/73 20130101; A61K 8/26 20130101; A61K 8/365 20130101; A61K 8/042
20130101; A61K 8/9789 20170801; A61K 8/585 20130101; A61K 8/9794
20170801; A61K 8/37 20130101; A61K 2800/10 20130101; A61K 8/375
20130101 |
International
Class: |
A61K 8/73 20060101
A61K008/73; A61K 8/04 20060101 A61K008/04; A61K 8/92 20060101
A61K008/92; A61K 8/34 20060101 A61K008/34; A61K 8/31 20060101
A61K008/31; A61K 8/58 20060101 A61K008/58; A61K 8/365 20060101
A61K008/365; A61K 8/37 20060101 A61K008/37; A61K 8/9794 20060101
A61K008/9794; A61K 8/9789 20060101 A61K008/9789 |
Claims
1. A non-petroleum based gel texturizer base for cosmetic products
comprising a solvent, a texture enhancer, and a gum texture
modifier, wherein: a) the solvent is a plant juice derived
supernatant having about 6.0 to about 20.0% carbohydrate content
and an acidic pH of between about 2.2 and about 6.0, wherein the
amount of the solvent ranges from about 89.0 to 94.0% of the total
weight of the gel texturizer base; b) the texture enhancer is a
mixture consisting essentially of about 87.0 to 92.0% coconut
alkanes, about 4.0 to 6.5% coco-caprylate/caprate, about 1.5 to
3.5% bio-silicate fermentation product, and about 1.5 to 3.5%
polysaccharide conditioner, wherein the amount of the texture
enhancer ranges from about 2.0 to 5.0% of the total weight of the
gel texturizer base; and c) the gum texture modifier is a mixture
consisting essentially of about 44.5 to 53.0% clay, about 19.5 to
25.0% polysaccharide thickener, about 2.8 to 6.0% polysaccharide
stabilizer, and about 21.5 to 28.0% glyceryl stearate, wherein the
amount of the gum texture modifier ranges from about 4.0 to 6.5% of
the total weight of the gel texturizer base; wherein the weight to
weight ratio of the texture enhancer to the gum texture modifier of
the gel texturizer base ranges from 0.35 to 0.75.
2. The gel texturizer base of claim 1, wherein the solvent is a
plant juice selected from the group consisting of aloe, grape,
lemon, apple, and mixtures thereof.
3. The gel texturizer base of claim 2, wherein the solvent is a
plant juice mixture consisting of aloe, grape, and apple.
4. The gel texturizer base of claim 1, wherein the solvent has a pH
of between about 3.0 and about 5.0.
5. The gel texturizer base of claim 1, wherein the texture enhancer
consists of coconut alkanes that is about 85.0 to about 90.0% C12
alkanes.
6. The gel texturizer base of claim 1, wherein the weight to weight
ratio of the bio-silicate fermentation product to the
polysaccharide conditioner ranges from 0.9 to 1.1.
7. The gel texturizer base of claim 1, wherein the bio-silicate
fermentation product is derived from leaves and stalks of
bamboo.
8. The gel texturizer base of claim 1, wherein the polysaccharide
conditioner is biosaccharide gum.
9. The gel texturizer base of claim 1, wherein the clay is smectite
clay.
10. The gel texturizer base of claim 9, wherein the smectite clay
is selected from the group consisting of montmorillonites,
hectorites, bentonites, attapulgites, sepiolites, beidellites,
saponites, and mixtures thereof.
11. The gel texturizer base of claim 1, wherein the polysaccharide
thickener is xanthan gum.
12. The gel texturizer base of claim 1, wherein the polysaccharide
stabilizer is a sulfated galactose-based polysaccharide.
13. The gel texturizer base of claim 12, wherein the sulfated
galactose-based polysaccharide is carrageenan.
14. A composition comprising the gel texturizer base of claim 1 and
a fresh fragrance.
15. The composition of claim 14, wherein the fresh fragrance is a
blend of any two or more pure essential oils selected from the
group consisting of may chang oil, ylang ylang oil, bergamot oil,
frankincense oil, lavender oil, orange peel oil, juniper oil, and
clary sage oil.
16. A moisturizing composition comprising the gel texturizer base
of claim 1 and at least one compound selected from the group
consisting of caprylic/capric triglyceride, cyclomethicone,
dimethicone, glycols, hyaluronic acid, fragrance, polymers, and
peptides.
17. The moisturizing composition of claim 16, wherein the
composition has a pH of between 5.0 and about 6.5.
18. The moisturizing composition of claim 16, wherein the
composition has a viscosity of between about 180,000 and 600,000
cP.
19. The moisturizing composition of claim 16, wherein the
composition has a specific gravity of between 0.99 to 1.1 and
wherein the density ratio is in comparison to water at 4.degree. C.
and 1 atm.
20. The moisturizing composition of claim 16, wherein the
composition is a cosmetic product comprising about 55.0 to about
78.0% of the solvent, about 1.0 to about 4.0% of the texture
enhancer, and about 1.5 to about 5.5% of the gum texture
modifier.
21. An eye treatment composition comprising the gel texturizer base
of claim 1 and at least one compound selected from the group
consisting of peptides, plant butters, silicones, and polymers.
22. A facial mask composition comprising the gel texturizer base of
claim 1 and at least one compound selected from the group
consisting of kaolin, glycerin, dimethicone, PEGs, polysorbate,
plant extracts, and magnesium silicate.
23. A composition comprising the gel texturizer base of claim 1 and
sunflower seed oil.
24. A composition comprising the gel texturizer base of claim 1 and
tocopherol.
25. A composition comprising the gel texturizer base of claim 1 and
alpha-hydroxy acids, beta-hydroxy acids, or a combination
thereof.
26. A method of manufacturing a non-petroleum based gel texturizer
base for cosmetic products by combining a solvent, a texture
enhancer, and a gum texture modifier, wherein: a) the solvent is a
plant juice derived supernatant having about 6.0 to about 20.0%
carbohydrate content and an acidic pH of between about 2.2 and
about 6.0, wherein the amount of the solvent ranges from about 89.0
to 94.0% of the total weight of the gel texturizer base; b) the
texture enhancer is a mixture consisting essentially of about 87.0
to 92.0% coconut alkanes, about 4.0 to 6.5% coco-caprylate/caprate,
about 1.5 to 3.5% bio-silicate fermentation product, and about 1.5
to 3.5% polysaccharide conditioner, wherein the amount of the
texture enhancer ranges from about 2.0 to 5.0% of the total weight
of the gel texturizer base; and c) the gum texture modifier is a
mixture consisting essentially of about 44.5 to 53.0% clay, about
19.5 to 25.0% polysaccharide thickener, about 2.8 to 6.0%
polysaccharide stabilizer, and about 21.5 to 28.0% glyceryl
stearate, wherein the amount of the gum texture modifier ranges
from about 4.0 to 6.5% of the total weight of the gel texturizer
base; wherein the weight to weight ratio of the texture enhancer to
the gum texture modifier of the gel texturizer base ranges from
0.35 to 0.75.
Description
CROSS-REFERENCE TO RELATED APPLICATIONS
[0001] The present application claims the benefit of priority to
U.S. Provisional Application No. 62/734,790, filed Sep. 21, 2018,
the full disclosure of which is incorporated herein by reference in
its entirety for all purposes.
BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION
[0002] There are hundreds of skin care products on the market today
designed to provide a variety of benefits and care for hands, feet,
body, eyes, face, etc. Texturizing agents represent an important
sector of so-called cosmetic products because they in fact
constitute the vehicles for numerous formulations such as
moisturizers, cleansers, facial serums and masks, make-up,
foundation, topical facial medications and the like. These
gel-based cosmetic compositions are obtained by using structuring
polymers and viscous gelling agents by means of which
three-dimensional networks are produced. Because these gel
formulations can be unstable, they can eventually, given enough
time or energy, separate and/or exhibit syneresis.
[0003] Consequently, many gel texturizer base systems are comprised
of synthetic or semi-synthetic materials. However, skin care
products which contain such synthetic materials in gel texturizers
vary in effectiveness, and, in addition to being ineffective, many
of them can have adverse side effects and can even damage the skin.
Unfortunately, few natural gel texturizers are capable of giving
gels which at one and the same time exhibit desirable tactile
properties, texture attributes, and appearance as well as good
stability. There is a need for gel texturizer bases made of
naturally occurring and non-synthetic components for cosmetic
products. The present invention solves these problems and more by
providing a gel texturizer base, comprising a plant juice solvent,
texture enhancer, and a gum texture modifier.
BRIEF SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION
[0004] In one aspect, the present invention provides a
non-petroleum based gel texturizer base for cosmetic products
comprising a solvent, a texture enhancer, and a gum texture
modifier. The solvent is a plant juice derived supernatant having
about 6.0 to about 20.0% carbohydrate content and an acidic pH of
between about 2.2 and about 6.0, wherein the amount of the solvent
ranges from about 89.0 to 94.0% of the total weight of the gel
texturizer base. The texture enhancer is a mixture consisting
essentially of about 87.0 to 92.0% coconut alkanes, about 4.0 to
6.5% coco-caprylate/caprate, about 1.5 to 3.5% bio-silicate
fermentation product, and about 1.5 to 3.5% polysaccharide
conditioner, wherein the amount of the texture enhancer ranges from
about 2.0 to 5.0% of the total weight of the gel texturizer base.
The gum texture modifier is a mixture consisting essentially of
about 44.5 to 53.0% clay, about 19.5 to 25.0% polysaccharide
thickener, about 2.8 to 6.0% polysaccharide stabilizer, and about
21.5 to 28.0% glyceryl stearate, wherein the amount of the gum
texture modifier ranges from about 4.0 to 6.5% of the total weight
of the gel texturizer base. The weight to weight ratio of the
texture enhancer to the gum texture modifier of the gel texturizer
base ranges from 0.35 to 0.75.
[0005] In some embodiments, the invention provides a gel texturizer
base, wherein the solvent is a plant juice selected from the group
consisting of aloe, grape, lemon, apple, and mixtures thereof. In
some embodiments, the solvent is a plant juice mixture consisting
of aloe, grape, and apple. In some embodiments, the solvent of the
gel texturizer base has a pH of between about 3.0 and about 5.0. In
some embodiments, the invention provides a gel texturizer base,
wherein the texture enhancer consists of coconut alkanes that is
about 85.0 to about 90.0% C12 alkanes. In some embodiments, the
weight to weight ratio of the bio-silicate fermentation product to
the polysaccharide conditioner ranges from 0.9 to 1.1.
[0006] In some embodiments, the bio-silicate fermentation product
is derived from leaves and stalks of bamboo. In some embodiments,
the polysaccharide conditioner is biosaccharide gum. In some
embodiments, the clay is smectite clay. In some embodiments, the
smectite clay is selected from the group consisting of
montmorillonites, hectorites, bentonites, attapulgites, sepiolites,
beidellites, saponites, and mixtures thereof. In some embodiments,
the polysaccharide thickener is xanthan gum. In some embodiments,
the polysaccharide stabilizer is a sulfated galactose-based
polysaccharide. In some embodiments, the sulfated galactose-based
polysaccharide is carrageenan.
[0007] In a related aspect, the invention provides a composition
comprising the gel texturizer base as described herein and a fresh
fragrance. In some embodiments, the fresh fragrance of the gel
texturizer base composition described herein is a blend of any two
or more pure essential oils selected from the group consisting of
may chang oil, ylang ylang oil, bergamot oil, frankincense oil,
lavender oil, orange peel oil, juniper oil, and clary sage oil. In
another aspect, the invention provides a moisturizing composition
comprising the gel texturizer base as described herein and at least
one compound selected from the group consisting of caprylic/capric
triglyceride, cyclomethicone, dimethicone, glycols, hyaluronic
acid, fragrance, polymers, and peptides. In some embodiments, the
moisturizing composition comprising the gel texturizer base as
described herein has a pH of between about 5.0 and about 6.5. In
some embodiments, the moisturizing composition comprising the gel
texturizer base as described herein has a viscosity of between
about 180,000 and 600,000 cP. In some embodiments, the moisturizing
composition comprising the gel texturizer base as described herein
has a specific gravity of between 0.99 to 1.1 and wherein the
density ratio is in comparison to water at 4.degree. C. and 1 atm.
In some embodiments, the moisturizing composition comprising the
gel texturizer base as described herein is a cosmetic product
comprising about 55.0 to about 78.0% of the solvent, about 1.0 to
about 4.0% of the texture enhancer, and about 1.5 to about 5.5% of
the gum texture modifier.
[0008] In another related aspect, the invention provides an eye
treatment composition comprising the gel texturizer base as
described herein and at least one compound selected from the group
consisting of peptides, plant butters, silicones, and polymers. In
yet another related aspect, the invention provides a facial mask
composition comprising the gel texturizer base as described herein
and at least one compound selected from the group consisting of
kaolin, glycerin, dimethicone, PEGs, polysorbate, plant extracts,
and magnesium silicate. In a further related aspect, the invention
provides a composition comprising the gel texturizer base as
described herein and sunflower seed oil and/or tocopherol. In a
further related aspect, the invention provides a composition
comprising the gel texturizer base as described herein and
alpha-hydroxy acids, beta-hydroxy acids, or a combination
thereof.
[0009] In another aspect, the present invention provides a method
of manufacturing a non-petroleum based gel texturizer base for
cosmetic products by combining a solvent, a texture enhancer, and a
gum texture modifier. The solvent is a plant juice derived
supernatant having about 6.0 to about 20.0% carbohydrate content
and an acidic pH of between about 2.2 and about 6.0, wherein the
amount of the solvent ranges from about 89.0 to 94.0% of the total
weight of the gel texturizer base. The texture enhancer is a
mixture consisting essentially of about 87.0 to 92.0% coconut
alkanes, about 4.0 to 6.5% coco-caprylate/caprate, about 1.5 to
3.5% bio-silicate fermentation product, and about 1.5 to 3.5%
polysaccharide conditioner, wherein the amount of the texture
enhancer ranges from about 2.0 to 5.0% of the total weight of the
gel texturizer base. The gum texture modifier is a mixture
consisting essentially of about 44.5 to 53.0% clay, about 19.5 to
25.0% polysaccharide thickener, about 2.8 to 6.0% polysaccharide
stabilizer, and about 21.5 to 28.0% glyceryl stearate, wherein the
amount of the gum texture modifier ranges from about 4.0 to 6.5% of
the total weight of the gel texturizer base. The weight to weight
ratio of the texture enhancer to the gum texture modifier of the
gel texturizer base ranges from 0.35 to 0.75.
DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION
I. Introduction
[0010] This invention provides for a gel texturizer base for
cosmetic products having low to medium viscosity. Such bases are
excipients that provide a gel-like texture to cosmetic products.
The gel texturizer bases of this invention are from non-petroleum
based products and comprise over 85% juice derived solvent and up
to 15% of a texture enhancer and gum texture modifier mixture. A
key feature of this invention is the ratio of the texture enhancer
to the gum texture modifier which provides the necessary texture
and required after feel and appearance properties.
[0011] Using organic juices as a base composition for a skin care
product is a costly process with many challenging logistics. For
example, seasonal produce, weather sensitivity and the fact that
each crop has unique chemistry and colors combine to make the
development of juice-based organic skin care products extremely
difficult. Implementing a juice-based solvent gel texturizer
composition is exceedingly more difficult given the inherent
instability of gel texturizer systems having the desired sensorial
properties. However, the juice-containing gel texturizer bases
described herein prove to exhibit stability and desired tactile
sensations.
[0012] Organic juices are rich in potent antioxidants, essential
vitamins, vital phytonutrients, and powerful hydroxy acids, making
them excellent ingredients for skin care products. The gel
texturizer base compositions below do not make use of artificial
fillers, toxic preservatives, water to dilute the compositions,
tars, petroleum, synthetic fragrances, or parabens.
II. Definitions
[0013] The term "texture enhancer" refers to a homogeneous
four-component mixture of occlusive-like additives, which include
non-polar oils, polar oils, and natural fermented lubricants, which
is used to produce gel texturizer bases with the solvent and the
gum texture modifier. Thus, the texture enhancer provides an
observable or otherwise detectable improvement in the tactile
sensation experienced by touching and/or feeling the gel texturizer
base, compared to a gel texturizer base that does not contain the
texture enhancer component. Texture enhancer compounds/compositions
are described in detail in the present application.
[0014] "Non-polar" oils are generally oils which are hydrocarbons
("alkanes") and are more hydrophobic and lipophilic compared to
synthetic oils, such as esters, which may be referred to as "polar"
oils. It is understood that within the class of oils, that the use
of the terms "non-polar" and "polar" are relative within this very
hydrophobic and lipophilic class, and all of the oils tend to be
much more hydrophobic and lipophilic than the "solvent" which is
used in the gel texturizer base of the present invention.
[0015] The terms "alkane" and "alkanes" refer to non-aromatic,
saturated hydrocarbons with the general formula
C.sub.nH.sub.(2n+2), wherein n is an integer from, for example, 10
to 22, preferably 12 to 18. The alkanes can exist as a mixture of
linear and branched saturated hydrocarbons. Alkanes particularly
useful for the alkane texture enhancer of the instant invention,
for example, are liquid at room temperature (i.e., 20.degree. C. to
25.5.degree. C.) and are alkanes having 12 and 14 carbons (i.e.,
C12 and C14, respectively).
[0016] The term "fresh fragrance" refers to any odoriferous mixture
of essential oils which provides the gel texturizer base and/or
cosmetic product compositions comprising the gel texturizer base
described herein with a pleasing fresh and light odor. Fresh and
light fragrances are typically those perceived as non-sweet with a
predominant fresh note that is often associated with citrus, greens
or aldehydes. The fresh fragrance can include one or two
components. Examples of fresh fragrances include, but are not
limited to, may chang oil, ylang ylang oil, bergamot oil,
frankincense oil, lavender oil, orange peel oil, juniper oil, clary
sage oil, and combinations thereof.
[0017] The term "gum texture modifier" refers to a homogeneous
three-component mixture of rheological, thickening additives, which
include natural and inorganic compounds, used to produce gel
texturizer bases with the solvent and the texture enhancer. The
components of the gum texture modifier impart viscosity,
elasticity, stability, and suspending power to the gel texturizer
bases of the invention by increasing the interaction between the
hydrophilic continuous phase (i.e., the solvent) and the lipophilic
internal phase (i.e., the texture enhancer). Gum texture modifier
compounds/compositions are described in detail in the present
application.
[0018] The terms "plant juice" and "plant juice derived
supernatant" refer to the aqueous-based liquid that is obtained
from any suitable plant or part thereof. Plant juice is the solvent
component of the gel texturizer base of the invention.
[0019] The term "percent weight," unless otherwise defined, means %
or refers to the percentage of a component measured in weight per
total weight of a particular composition. Percent weight is
represented by "%" or "% w/w."
[0020] The terms "peptide(s)," "polypeptide(s)," and "protein(s)"
are used interchangeably herein to refer to a polymer of amino acid
residues. All three terms apply to amino acid polymers in which one
or more amino acid residue is an artificial chemical mimetic of a
corresponding naturally occurring amino acid, as well as to
naturally occurring amino acid polymers and non-naturally occurring
amino acid polymers. As used herein, the terms encompass amino acid
chains of any length, including full-length proteins, wherein the
amino acid residues are linked by covalent peptide bonds. Such
amino acid polymers can be incorporated into the cosmetic products
described herein which comprise the gel texturizer base of the
instant invention.
[0021] The term "solvent" refers to the aqueous mixture derived
from plant juice and can be used to produce gel texturizer bases
with the texture enhancer and the gum texture modifier. Solvent
compositions are described in detail in the present
application.
[0022] The phrase "gel texturizer base" refers to the base
excipient formulated alongside the active ingredients of a cosmetic
product. The gel texturizer base is typically inert and present for
the purpose of providing a gel-like texture to the whole cosmetic
product, such as, for example, moisturizing compositions, eye
treatment compositions, and facial mask compositions. The solvent,
the texture enhancer, and the gum texture modifier are the three
components of the gel texturizer base. Gel texturizer base
compositions are described in detail in the present
application.
[0023] The terms "gel" or "gel-like" are used to define the
physical-chemical properties and structural matrix of the gel
texture base compositions of the instant invention as a semisolid
disperse system of at least two constituents, consisting of a
condensed mass enclosing and interpenetrated by a liquid. The
physical state of a gel is formed by a network of interconnected
molecules and liquid, in which both the network of molecules is
continuous and the liquid is continuous, such as a cross-linked
polymer or a network of micelles. The network gives a gel phase its
structure. At the molecular level, a gel is a type of disperse
system and sometimes considered as a single phase having a
self-sustaining structure which does not require physical or
external support (i.e., can hold a shape) for a given period of
time at constant temperature, for example, from the time of
preparation to the time of application or end use. These terms can
also mean that the composition is not easily pourable.
[0024] Technically, a gel is a semi-solid, jelly-like physical
state or phase that can have properties ranging from soft and weak
to hard and tough. Shearing stresses below a certain finite value
fail to produce permanent deformation. The minimum shear stress
which will produce permanent deformation is referred to as the
shear strength or gel strength of the gel. In other words, the
gel-like structure of the texturizing base compositions of the
invention is hard or rigid enough such that a sufficient amount of
pressure or force applied on the structure is required in order to
break the structure. For example, a shearing force or a pressing
action with the hands or fingers can be used in order to distribute
the formula in the hand or onto a surface, such as the surface of
facial skin.
[0025] Viscoelasticity is the property of materials that exhibit
both viscous and elastic characteristics when undergoing
deformation. Viscous materials resist shear flow and strain
linearly with time when a stress is applied. Elastic materials
strain when stretched and quickly return to their original state
once the stress is removed. Viscoelastic materials have elements of
both of these properties and, as such, exhibit time-dependent
strain. Thus, the term "viscoelastic" as used herein with respect
to the gel texturizer base of the present disclosure, and
components thereof, refers to the ability of the gel texturizing
agents, and compositions thereof, to change shape when a certain
amount of pressure or force is applied to the compositions, as well
as return to the original shape when the pressure or force is
removed. Said amount of pressure or force is such that it is not
sufficient to break the gel structure of the compositions of the
invention.
[0026] The phrase "non-petroleum based" refers to ingredients of
the gel texturizer base for which crude oil or its derivatives are
not the ultimate raw material (i.e., starting material). An
exemplary non-petroleum resource includes, but is not limited to,
bio-based resources, such as those derived from plants.
[0027] The terms "essential oil" or "essential oils" refer to
aromatic, volatile liquids extracted from plant material. Essential
oils are often concentrated hydrophobic liquids containing volatile
aroma compounds. Essential oil chemical constituents can fall
within general classes, such as terpenes (e.g., p-cymene, limonene,
sabinene, .alpha.-pinene, .gamma.-terpinene, .beta.-caryophyllene),
terpenoids (e.g., citronellal, thymol, carvacrol, carvone, borneol)
and phenylpropanoids (e.g., cinnamaldehyde, eugenol, vanillin,
safrole). Essential oils can be natural (i.e., derived from
plants).
[0028] The terms "pure" or "substantially pure" refer to an object
species (e.g., a particular essential oil) is the predominant
species present (i.e., on a molar basis it is more abundant than
any other essential oil in the composition thereof), and preferably
a substantially purified fraction is a composition wherein the
object species comprises at least about 50 percent (on a molar
basis) of all macromolecular species present. Generally, a
substantially pure composition (e.g., an essential oil or blend of
essential oils) will comprise more than about 80 percent of all
macromolecular species present in the composition, more preferably
more than about 85%, 90%, 95%, and 99%. Most preferably, the object
species is purified to essential homogeneity (contaminant species
cannot be detected in the composition by conventional detection
methods) wherein the composition consists essentially of a single
macromolecular species. The term "pure" or "substantially pure"
also refers to preparations where the object species (e.g., the
essential oil) is at least 60% (w/w) pure, or at least 70% (w/w)
pure; or at least 75% (w/w) pure; or at least 80% (w/w) pure; or at
least 85% (w/w) pure, or at least 90% (w/w) pure, or at least 92%
(w/w) pure, or at least 95% (w/w) pure, or at least 96% (w/w) pure,
or at least 97% (w/w) pure, or at least 98% (w/w) pure, or at least
99% (w/w) pure, or 100% (w/w) pure.
III. Gel Texturizer Base Components
Solvents
[0029] The solvent component of the non-petroleum based gel
texturizer base of the instant invention is a plant juice, which
acts as a continuous hydrophilic and aqueous phase of the
dispersion system matrix (i.e., the gel texturizer base) throughout
which the texture enhancer and gum texture modifier are dispersed.
In addition to being the main constituent of the gel texturizer
base composition, the solvent provides a high load of antioxidant
rich nutrients to any cosmetic product that contains the gel
texturizer base of the invention.
[0030] Any suitable plant juice is useful as a solvent in the gel
texturizer base, such as, for example, aloe barbadensis leaf juice
(aloe), Vitis vinifera juice (grape), pyrus malus juice (apple),
citrus limon juice (lemon), citrus aurantium juice (orange), and
mixtures thereof. Preferably the solvent is derived from certified
organic fruit or plants. Various parts of the plants (i.e., plant
biomass) may be used as the solvent. For example, the stems and
leaf tissue may be used for many types of plants. For other plants,
the flowers or fruit may be used as sources of plant juice for use
in the present invention. For example, the fruit tissue of grape,
apple, or lemon can be used to obtain the solvent as the plant
juice derived supernatant. In another embodiment, the leaf and stem
tissue of the aloe plant can be used to obtain the solvent as the
plant juice derived supernatant.
[0031] The solvent (i.e., the plant juice derived supernatant) can
be obtained using suitable extracting methods known in the art.
However, the extraction technique should result in a plant juice
that preserves the bioactive components of the plant. An exemplary
method of obtaining the plant juice derived supernatant involves
harvesting the suitable plant biomass (i.e., fruit, flower, leaf,
stem, etc.), preparing the harvested biomass for the extraction
process, and extraction.
[0032] The plant biomass should be harvested in conditions which
avoid moisture loss of the plant biomass. Optimal conditions are
those where natural moisture content is maintained and preserved.
Harvesting of the plant biomass may be conducted in a manner that
avoids or minimizes the chopping, mashing, crushing, or other type
of injury of the plant. Delivery time of plant material to the
processing facility and exposure of biomass to sun, high
temperature, and other negative environmental factors, should be
minimized to prevent the impact of unwanted degradation processes.
The harvested plant mass should be washed remove the soil particles
and other debris from plants prior to grinding and maceration once
the plant tissue is harvested.
[0033] After the plant biomass is harvested, as described above,
the plant biomass is subjected to grinding, maceration, and
pressing to extract the intracellular content (i.e., the plant
juice derived supernatant, and to separate it from the
fiber-enriched press-cake containing predominantly cell walls). For
example, a hammer mill may be used to grind the plant biomass to
yield plant tissue particles of a small size in a short time and
without significant increase of biomass temperature. In one
embodiment, a modified hammer mill is used to produce the maximum
size of macerated plant particles less than or equal to 0.5
centimeters during less than or equal to 10 seconds of treatment,
where the increase of biomass temperature is less than or equal to
5.degree. C. The extraction of the plant juice and its separation
from the press-cake is commenced as soon as possible after grinding
and maceration of the plant biomass. The plant biomass is processed
in a short time and without significant increase in temperature. In
one embodiment, immediately after grinding and maceration, the
plant biomass is pressed using a horizontal, continuous screw press
(Compact Press "CP-6", Vincent Corporation, FL). The pressure on
the cone is maintained at level 24 kg/cm.sup.2, screw speed is at
12 rpm, and the temperature increase is less than or equal to
5.degree. C.
[0034] The initial plant juice supernatant usually contains small
fiber particles, which can absorb valuable plant juice components
and also block the hoses and pumps of dispensers. The above
particles should be removed by filtration or low-speed
centrifugation. For example, the initial plant juices produced
after the pressing step are filtered through four layers of nylon
fabric. The filtrate, or the plant juice derived supernatant, is
collected and used as the solvent. In some embodiments, a suitable
solvent for use in the gel texturizer base may optionally be
prepared from a concentrated extracted plant juice or filtrate
according to applicable government guidelines. In some cases,
suitable plant juice derived supernatants used as the solvent in
the gel texturizer base of the invention are commercially available
and can be purchased from, for example, Jedwards International,
Inc. (Braintree, Mass.), Concentrated Aloe Corporation (Ormond
Beach, Fla.), Aloecorp, Inc. (Tacoma, Wash.), and Charkit Chemical
Company LLC (Norwalk, Conn.).
[0035] The plant juice derived supernatant (i.e., solvent) will
have a carbohydrate content that is between about 6.0% and 20.0% of
the solvent. In some embodiments, the plant juice will have a
carbohydrate content that is between about 6.0% and about 10.0%,
about 8.0% and about 18.0%, about 10.0% and about 16.0%, or about
12.0% and about 16.0% of the solvent. In some embodiments, the
plant juice will have a carbohydrate content that is about 7.0%,
about 11.0%, or about 17%. The carbohydrate content of the plant
juice derived supernatant can be measured by any of many analytical
methods available in the field and well known to one of skill in
the art, such as, for example, high performance chromatography
(HPLC), gas chromatography (GC), colorimetric methods, gravimetric
methods (e.g., using hydrometers), refractometers, electric tongue,
visible infrared spectroscopy, near infrared spectroscopy,
hyperspectral imaging, multispectral imaging, or combinations
thereof. See, Magwaza, L. S. et al. 2015 Scientia Horticulturae,
(184) 179-192.
[0036] The plant juice solvent will have an acidic pH that is
between about 2.2 and about 6.0. In some embodiments, the plant
juice will have an acidic pH that is between about 2.5 and about
5.5, about 3.0 and about 5.0, or about 3.5 and about 4.5. In some
embodiments, the plant juice will have an acidic pH that is between
about 4.0 and about 5.0. In other embodiments, the plant juice will
have an acidic pH that is about 2.5 or 3.6.
[0037] In some embodiments, the solvent used in the gel texturizer
base of the present invention can have a bacterial cell count
(i.e., aerobic plate count, "APC") of less than 150 CFU/g (colony
forming units per gram of solvent). For example, the bacterial cell
count of the plant juice derived supernatant can be between about 0
CFU/g and about 145 CFU/g, between about 30 CFU/g and about 120
CFU/g, or between about 50 CFU/g and about 100 CFU/g. In some
embodiments, the plant juice solvent will have a bacterial cell
count that is less than 150 CFU/g, less than 100 CFU/g, or less
than 50 CFU/g. In some embodiments, the solvent has a bacterial
cell count that is less than 150 CFU/g. In some embodiments, the
solvent has a bacterial cell count that is less than 100 CFU/g. In
some embodiments, the solvent has a bacterial cell count that is
less than 50 CFU/g.
[0038] A culture-based method can be used to determine the
bacterial cell count of the solvent, in which serial dilutions of
the plant juice cultures are plated onto agar plates containing the
appropriate nutrients and incubated for about 48 hour aerobically
at mesophilic temperatures (25 to 40.degree. C., or 35.degree. C.,
for example). Colonies on the plates are counted and the number of
CFUs (colony forming units) in the samples are calculated as CFU/mL
or CFU/gram. Methods of determining the CFUs are described in
detail below.
[0039] In some embodiments, the solvent is aloe plant juice, grape
juice, lemon juice, apple juice, or orange juice. In some
embodiments, the solvent is aloe plant juice, grape juice, lemon
juice, or apple juice. In some embodiments, the solvent is aloe
plant juice. In some embodiments, the solvent is grape juice. In
some embodiments, the solvent is lemon juice. In some embodiments,
the solvent is apple juice. In some embodiments, the solvent is
orange juice. In some embodiments, the solvent is a plant juice
mixture of two or more plant juices selected from aloe plant juice,
grape juice, lemon juice, apple juice, and orange juice. In some
embodiments, the solvent is a plant juice mixture of two or more
plant juices selected from aloe plant juice, grape juice, lemon
juice, and apple juice. In other embodiments, the solvent is a
plant juice mixture of two or more plant juices selected from aloe
plant juice, apple juice, and grape juice. In some embodiments, the
solvent is a plant juice mixture consisting of aloe plant juice,
apple juice, and grape juice.
[0040] In some embodiments, the solvent is a plant juice mixture
consisting of any suitable amounts of aloe plant juice, apple
juice, and grape juice. For example, the plant juice mixture may
comprise from about 50.0 to 75.0% aloe plant juice, from about 15.0
to 30.0% apple juice, and from about 10.0 to 20.0% grape juice. In
some embodiments, the plant juice mixture is from about 55.0 to
70.0% aloe plant juice, from about 18.0 to 28.0% apple juice, and
from about 12.0 to 18.0% grape juice. In other embodiments, the
plant juice mixture is from about 60.0 to 65.0% aloe plant juice,
from about 20.0 to 25.0% apple juice, and from about 12.0 to 18.0%
grape juice. In other embodiments, the plant juice mixture is about
60.0 to 63.0% aloe plant juice, about 20.0 to 23.0% apple juice,
and about 13.0 to 16.0% grape juice.
[0041] In some embodiments, the solvent is an aloe plant juice
derived supernatant having a carbohydrate content of about 6.0 to
about 20.0% and an acidic pH of between about 2.2 and about 6.0. In
some embodiments, the solvent is an aloe plant juice derived
supernatant having a carbohydrate content of about 11.3% and an
acidic pH of between about 3.0 and about 5.0. In some embodiments,
the solvent is a grape juice derived supernatant having a
carbohydrate content of about 6.0 to about 20.0% and an acidic pH
of between about 2.2 and about 6.0. In some embodiments, the
solvent is a grape juice derived supernatant having a carbohydrate
content of about 17.4% and an acidic pH of between about 4.0 and
about 5.0. In some embodiments, the solvent is an apple juice
derived supernatant having a carbohydrate content of about 6.0 to
about 20.0% and an acidic pH of between about 2.2 and about 6.0. In
some embodiments, the solvent is an apple juice derived supernatant
having a carbohydrate content of about 11.2% and an acidic pH of
about 3.6. In some embodiments, the solvent is a lemon juice
derived supernatant having a carbohydrate content of about 6.0 to
10.0% and an acidic pH of between about 2.2 and about 6.0. In some
embodiments, the solvent is a lemon juice derived supernatant
having a carbohydrate content of about 7.0% and an acidic pH of
about 2.5.
[0042] In some embodiments, the solvent is a plant juice mixture
having a carbohydrate content of about 6.0 to 20.0% and an acidic
pH of between about 2.2 and about 6.0. In some embodiments, the
solvent is a plant juice mixture having a carbohydrate content of
about 12.0 to 15.0% and an acidic pH of between about 3.0 and about
5.0. In some embodiments, the solvent is a plant juice mixture
consisting of aloe plant juice, apple juice, and grape juice,
having a carbohydrate content of about 6.0 to 20.0% and an acidic
pH of about 2.2 and about 6.0. In some embodiments, the solvent is
a plant juice mixture consisting of aloe plant juice, apple juice,
and grape juice, having a carbohydrate content of about 12.0 to
15.0% and an acidic pH of between about 3.0 and about 5.0.
[0043] In some embodiments, the solvent is an aloe plant juice
derived supernatant having a carbohydrate content of 6.0 to about
20.0%, an acidic pH of between about 2.2 and about 6.0, and a
bacterial cell count of less than 150 CFU/g. In some embodiments,
the solvent is an aloe plant juice derived supernatant having a
carbohydrate content of about 11.3%, an acidic pH of between about
3.0 and about 5.0, and a bacterial cell count of less than 150
CFU/g. In some embodiments, the solvent is a grape juice derived
supernatant having a carbohydrate content of 6.0 to about 20.0%, an
acidic pH of between about 2.2 and about 6.0, and a bacterial cell
count of less than 150 CFU/g. In some embodiments, the solvent is a
grape juice derived supernatant having a carbohydrate content of
about 17.4%, an acidic pH of between about 4.0 and about 5.0, and a
bacterial cell count of less than 150 CFU/g. In some embodiments,
the solvent is an apple juice derived supernatant having a
carbohydrate content of about 6.0 to about 20.0%, an acidic pH of
between about 2.2 and about 6.0, and a bacterial cell count of less
than 150 CFU/g. In some embodiments, the solvent is an apple juice
derived supernatant having a carbohydrate content of about 11.2%,
an acidic pH of about 3.6, and a bacterial cell count of less than
150 CFU/g. In some embodiments, the solvent is a lemon juice
derived supernatant having a carbohydrate content of about 6.0 to
10.0%, an acidic pH of between about 2.2 and about 6.0, and a
bacterial cell count of less than 150 CFU/g. In some embodiments,
the solvent is a lemon juice derived supernatant having a
carbohydrate content of about 7.0%, an acidic pH of about 2.5, and
a bacterial cell count of less than 150 CFU/g.
[0044] In some embodiments, the solvent is a plant juice mixture
having a carbohydrate content of about 6.0 to 20.0%, an acidic pH
of between about 2.2 and about 6.0, and a bacterial cell count of
less than 150 CFU/g. In some embodiments, the solvent is a plant
juice mixture having a carbohydrate content of about 12.0 to 15.0%,
an acidic pH of between about 3.0 and about 5.0, and a bacterial
cell count of less than 150 CFU/g. In some embodiments, the solvent
is a plant juice mixture consisting of aloe plant juice, apple
juice, and grape juice, having a carbohydrate content of about 6.0
to 20.0%, an acidic pH of between about 2.2 and about 6.0, and a
bacterial cell count of less than 150 CFU/g. In some embodiments,
the solvent is a plant juice mixture consisting of aloe plant
juice, apple juice, and grape juice, having a carbohydrate content
of about 12.0 to 15.0%, an acidic pH of between about 3.0 and about
5.0, and a bacterial cell count of less than 150 CFU/g.
Texture Enhancers
[0045] The texture enhancer component of the gel texturizer base of
the invention is the lipophilic internal phase of the gel
dispersion system. The texture enhancer is a smooth, occlusive
liquid that is a pale yellow color. The constituents of the texture
enhancer of the gel texturizer base include coconut alkanes,
coco-caprylate/caprate, bio-chelated silica (i.e., bio-silicate
fermentation product), and polysaccharide conditioner. As a
lipophilic emollient, the texture enhancer helps improve skin feel
of the gel texturizer base, essentially reducing the sticky feeling
that would occur if the gel texturizer base contained only the
solvent and the gum texture modifier. In other words, the texture
enhancer reduces any sticky, gooey texture of the gel texturizer
base, providing a skin feel finish. Thus, the texture enhancer of
the gel texturizer base of the invention gives cosmetic products
the ability to glide upon the skin surface, making the composition
smooth and silky to apply.
[0046] The coconut alkanes of the texture enhancer is a non-polar
oil, which is a mixture of C12 and C14. Coconut alkanes can be
produced from the complete reduction and hydrogenation of a mixture
of fatty acids derived from Cocos nucifera oil. The coconut alkanes
of the instant invention are used in combination with
coco-caprylate/caprate and, together, impart smoothing and
emollient properties to the texture enhancer. In some embodiments,
the coconut alkanes is a mixture about 25.0% to about 75.0% by
weight of C12 alkanes and about 25.0% to about 75.0% by weight of
C14 alkanes. In some embodiments, the coconut alkanes is a mixture
of about 75.0% to about 95.0% by weight of C12 alkanes and about
5.0% to about 25.0% by weight of C14 alkanes. In some embodiments
of the present invention, the coconut alkanes is a mixture of about
75.0% to about 90.0% by weight of C12 alkanes and about 10.0% to
about 25.0% by weight of C14 alkanes. In some embodiments of the
present invention, the coconut alkanes of the texture enhancer is
about 85.0 to about 90.0% C12 alkanes. Coconut alkanes suitable for
use in the texture enhancer are commercially available and can be
purchased from, for example, Grant Industries, Inc. (Elmwood Park,
N.J.), Kobo Products, Inc. (South Plainfield, N.J.), and Blue Sun
International (Miami, Fla.).
[0047] In some embodiments, the texture enhancer contains about
70.0 to 98.0% coconut alkanes. In some embodiments, the texture
enhancer contains about 75.0% coconut alkanes, or about 77.0%,
about 78.0%, about 79.0%, about 80.0%, about 80.5%, about 81.0%,
about 81.5%, about 82.0%, about 82.5%, about 83.0%, about 83.5%,
about 84.0%, about 84.5%, about 85.0%, about 85.5%, about 86.0%,
about 86.5%, about 87.0%, about 87.5%, about 88.0%, about 88.5%,
about 89.0%, about 89.5%, about 90.0%, about 90.5%, about 91.0%,
about 92.0%, about 93.0%, about 94.0%, or about 95.0% coconut
alkanes. In some embodiments, the texture enhancer contains about
72.0 to 96.0% coconut alkanes, or about 73.4 to 96.5%, about 75.0
to 97.0%, about 75.0 to 96.0%, about 76.8 to 95.5%, about 78.2 to
94.0%, about 79.0 to 97.0%, about 80.0 to 95.0%, about 82.3 to
90.0%, about 83.5 to 91.0%, about 85.0 to 92.5%, about 86.8 to
93.8%, about 87.5 to 96.0%, about 88.0 to 95.0%, about 88.5 to
94.5%, about 88.0 to 94.0%, about 88.5 to 93.5%, about 89.0 to
92.5%, about 89.2 to 91.5%, about 89.5 to 90.0%, about 90.0 to
92.0%, about 90.0 to 95.0%, or about 90.0 to 98.0% coconut alkanes.
In some embodiments, the texture enhancer contains about 87.0 to
92.0% coconut alkanes. In some embodiments, the texture enhancer
contains about 88.0 to 91.0% coconut alkanes. In some embodiments,
the texture enhancer contains about 89.0 to 90.5% coconut
alkanes.
[0048] Coco-caprylate/caprate of the texture enhancer is a polar
oil that is derived from a mixture of coconut fatty alcohol oil,
caprylic acid, and capric acid. As mentioned above, the
coco-caprylate/caprate is used together with the coconut alkanes to
act as an emollient agent in the texture enhancer. It is a medium
spreading emollient that is clear, mildly yellowish, medium polar
oil, and a spreading value of approximately 800 mm.sup.2/10 min.
The coco-caprylate/caprate has a cloud point of 8-15.degree. C., a
viscosity of 9-12 cP, and a refraction (20.degree. C.) of
1.4430-1.4470. The ester is prepared from the dehydration of
C12-C18 coconut fatty alcohols with C8 caprylic acid and C10 capric
acid. The esterification reaction will involve a catalyst, such as
sulfuric acid, to form coco-caprylate/caprate from the coconut
fatty alcohol and caprylic and capric acids. Because esterification
is a reversible reaction, water must be removed to obtain a
high-ester yield. One of skill in the art will appreciate the
detailed steps and methods of ester synthesis, such as those
included in Bailey's Industrial Oil and Fat Products, Sixth
Edition, Six Volume Set, 2005, John Wiley & Sons, Inc., pages
1-56. Coco-caprylate/caprate suitable for use in the texture
enhancer is commercially available and can be purchased from, for
example, ABITEC Corporation (Columbus, Ohio), Grant Industries,
Inc. (Elmwood Park, N.J.), BASF Care Solutions LLC (Florham Park,
N.J.), SEPPIC (Fairfield, N.J.), and Stearinerie Dubois
(Boulogne-Billancourt, France).
[0049] In some embodiments, the texture enhancer contains about 1.0
to 12.0% coco-caprylate/caprate. In some embodiments, the texture
enhancer contains about 2.5% coco-caprylate/caprate, or about 3.0%,
about 3.5%, about 4.0%, about 4.5%, about 5.0%, about 5.5%, about
6.0%, about 6.5%, about 7.0%, about 7.5%, about 8.0%, about 8.5%,
about 9.0%, about 9.5%, or about 10.0% coco-caprylate/caprate. In
some embodiments, the texture enhancer contains about 1.5 to 11.0%
coco-caprylate/caprate, or about 1.8 to 10.5%, about 2.0 to 10.0%,
about 2.6 to 9.8%, about 3.3 to 9.4%, about 3.8 to 9.0%, about 4.0
to 8.5%, about 4.3 to 8.3%, about 4.6 to 7.8%, about 4.8 to 7.3%,
about 5.0 to 6.8%, about 5.2 to 6.6%, about 5.4 to 6.2%, or about
5.6 to 6.0% coco-caprylate/caprate. In some embodiments, the
texture enhancer contains about 4.0 to 6.5% coco-caprylate/caprate.
In some embodiments, the texture enhancer contains about 4.5 to
6.0% coco-caprylate/caprate. In some embodiments, the texture
enhancer contains about 5.0 to 6.0% coco-caprylate/caprate.
[0050] Bio-chelated silica, sometimes referred to as a bio-silicate
fermentation product, is a bio-complexed silica extracted from
fermented plant constituents (such as, for example, roots, leaves,
stems, seeds, etc.). Bio-chelated silica is a natural alternative
to inert, synthetic silicone elastomer fluids that are typically
used in cosmetic compositions to provide a smooth, velvety and
non-greasy or oily feel when applied to the skin. The bio-chelated
silica of the instant invention is used in combination with
polysaccharide conditioner and, together, provide epidermal slip,
skin-feel properties, and sensory aesthetics to texture
enhancer.
[0051] Any suitable plant constituent is useful for fermenting and
producing the bio-silicate fermentation product for the texture
enhancer. For example, plant constituents that can be processed to
a fermentation broth include seeds, nodules, roots, leaves, stalks,
stems, isolates, hydrolysates, or combinations thereof, which are
obtained from suitable plants such as, for example, potatoes, rice,
soya, Triticum vulgare L. (i.e., common wheat), barley, oats, rye,
buckwheat, sugar cane, beans, Arundinaria gigantea (i.e., bamboo,
giant cane, river cane, etc.), peas, linseeds, Dipteryx odorata
(i.e., cumaru, tonka, etc.), cotton, sesame, Agropyron cristatum L.
(i.e., crested wheat grass), okra, kola nut, lupins, rape, Raphanus
sativus (i.e., radish), hemp, coconut palm, Panicum miliaceum L.
(i.e., proso millet), sunflowers, peanuts, alfalfa, lucerne,
Nasturtium officinale (i.e., watercress), hibiscus, tamarind,
kwaokrua, broccoli, cauliflower, Cytisus scoparius (i.e., common
broom plant), maca, quinoa, cocoa tree, mustards, almond, moringa,
silk, kale, baobab, cassia, irvingia, wallflower, thistle, oil
palm, or combinations thereof. In some embodiments, the
bio-chelated silica is derived from the constituents obtained from
sugar cane, rice, soya, Triticum vulgare L. (i.e., common wheat),
oats, rye, beans, Panicum miliaceum L. (i.e., proso millet),
Arundinaria gigantea (i.e., bamboo, giant cane, river cane, etc.),
peas, Dipteryx odorata (i.e., cumaru, tonka, etc.), cotton, okra,
kola nut, lupins, rape, Raphanus sativus (i.e., radish), Agropyron
cristatum L. (i.e., crested wheat grass), sunflowers, peanuts,
alfalfa, lucerne, Nasturtium officinale (i.e., watercress),
tamarind, broccoli, cauliflower, Cytisus scoparius (i.e., common
broom plant), kwaokrua, cocoa tree, baobab, thistle, mustards,
kale, wallflower, or combinations thereof. In some embodiments, the
bio-chelated silica is derived from the constituents obtained from
rice, soya, Triticum vulgare L. (i.e., common wheat), oats, rye,
sugar cane, beans, Arundinaria gigantea (i.e., bamboo, giant cane,
river cane, etc.), peas, Dipteryx odorata (i.e., cumaru, tonka,
etc.), Agropyron cristatum L. (i.e., crested wheat grass), lupins,
rape, Raphanus sativus (i.e., radish), Panicum miliaceum L. (i.e.,
proso millet), peanuts, alfalfa, Nasturtium officinale (i.e.,
watercress), tamarind, broccoli, cauliflower, Cytisus scoparius
(i.e., common broom plant), mustards, kale, wallflower, or
combinations thereof.
[0052] In some embodiments, the bio-chelated silica is derived from
the constituents obtained from plants of the Asteraceae family,
Lamiaceae family, Poaceae family, Fabaceae family, Brassicaceae
family, Rosaceae family, Malvaceae family, or combinations thereof.
In some embodiments, the bio-chelated silica is derived from the
constituents obtained from plants of the Poaceae family, Fabaceae
family, Brassicaceae family, or combinations thereof. In some
embodiments, the bio-chelated silica is derived from the
constituents obtained from plants of the Poaceae family, Fabaceae
family, and Brassicaceae family. In some embodiments, the
bio-chelated silica is derived from the constituents obtained from
Fabaceae family and the Brassicaceae family. In some embodiments,
the bio-chelated silica is derived from the constituents obtained
from Poaceae family and Fabaceae family. In some embodiments, the
bio-chelated silica is derived from the constituents obtained from
Poaceae family and Brassicaceae family. In some embodiments, the
bio-chelated silica is derived from the constituents obtained from
plants of the Poaceae family, Fabaceae family, and Brassicaceae
family.
[0053] In some embodiments, the bio-chelated silica is derived from
the constituents obtained from plants of the Poaceae family. In
some embodiments, the bio-chelated silica is derived from the
constituents obtained from sugar cane, rice, Triticum vulgare L.
(i.e., common wheat), oats, rye, Panicum miliaceum L. (i.e., proso
millet), Arundinaria gigantea (i.e., bamboo, giant cane, river
cane, etc.), Agropyron cristatum L. (i.e., crested wheat grass), or
combinations thereof. In some embodiments, the bio-chelated silica
is derived from the constituents obtained from plants of the
Fabaceae family. In some embodiments, the bio-chelated silica is
derived from the constituents obtained from soya, beans, peas,
Dipteryx odorata (i.e., cumaru, tonka, etc.), lupins, peanuts,
alfalfa, tamarind, Cytisus scoparius (i.e., common broom plant), or
combinations thereof. In some embodiments, the bio-chelated silica
is derived from the constituents obtained from plants of the
Brassicaceae family. In some embodiments, the bio-chelated silica
is derived from the constituents obtained from rape, Raphanus
sativus (i.e., radish), Nasturtium officinale (i.e., watercress),
broccoli, cauliflower, mustards, kale, wallflower, or combinations
thereof.
[0054] In some embodiments, the bio-chelated silica is derived from
the constituents obtained from Arundinaria gigantea (i.e., bamboo,
giant cane, river cane, etc.), Dipteryx odorata (i.e., cumaru,
tonka, etc.), cotton, okra, kola nut, Raphanus sativus (i.e.,
radish), or combinations thereof. In some embodiments, the
bio-chelated silica is derived from the constituents obtained from
Arundinaria gigantea (i.e., bamboo, giant cane, river cane, etc.),
Dipteryx odorata (i.e., cumaru, tonka, etc.), Raphanus sativus
(i.e., radish), or combinations thereof. In some embodiments, the
bio-chelated silica is derived from the constituents obtained from
Dipteryx odorata (i.e., cumaru, tonka, etc.) and Raphanus sativus
(i.e., radish). In some embodiments, the bio-chelated silica is
derived from the constituents obtained from Arundinaria gigantea
(i.e., bamboo, giant cane, river cane, etc.) and Dipteryx odorata
(i.e., cumaru, tonka, etc.). In some embodiments, the bio-chelated
silica is derived from the constituents obtained from Arundinaria
gigantea (i.e., bamboo, giant cane, river cane, etc.) and Raphanus
sativus (i.e., radish). In some embodiments, the bio-chelated
silica is derived from the constituents obtained from the
combination of Arundinaria gigantea (i.e., bamboo, giant cane,
river cane, etc.), Dipteryx odorata (i.e., cumaru, tonka, etc.),
and Raphanus sativus (i.e., radish). In some embodiments, the
bio-chelated silica is derived from the constituents obtained from
Raphanus sativus (i.e., radish). In some embodiments, the
bio-chelated silica is derived from the constituents obtained from
Dipteryx odorata (i.e., cumaru, tonka, etc.). In some embodiments,
the bio-chelated silica is derived from the constituents obtained
from Arundinaria gigantea (i.e., bamboo, giant cane, river cane,
etc.).
[0055] The bio-chelated silica (i.e., the bio-silicate fermentation
product) can be obtained using suitable fermenting methods known in
the art. The fermentation technique should result in a bio-silicate
fermentation product that preserves the bioactive components of the
plant. An exemplary method of obtaining the bio-chelated silica
involves harvesting the suitable plant biomass (i.e., size-reduced
plant parts, plant extracts, size-reduced and/or extracted seeds,
nodules, roots, stems, stalks or leaves, hydrolysates or isolates,
protein concentrates, etc.), preparing the harvested biomass for
the extraction process, preparing the fermentation
broth/extraction, inoculation and fermentation with suitable lactic
acid bacteria (e.g., Lactobacillus spp., spp., etc.), and,
optionally, at least one yeast. The bio-silicate fermentation
product is isolated from the fermentation broth and isolated as a
solid precipitate or as a solution to for use in the texture
enhancer. Detailed methods of preparing a bio-silicate fermentation
product are described in U.S. Patent Application Publication US
2005/0089499, which is incorporated herein by reference.
[0056] The plant biomass used for obtaining the bio-silicate
fermentation product is harvested and prepared for extraction using
methods described previously for plant juice solvent. The plant
biomass used for fermentation is prepared using suitable
conventional extraction processes, such as maceration,
re-maceration, digestion, agitation maceration, vortex extraction,
ultrasonic extraction, countercurrent extraction, percolation,
re-percolation, evacolation (extraction under reduced pressure),
diacolation and solid/liquid extraction under continuous reflux in
a Soxhlet extractor, which are familiar to the expert and which may
all be used in principle, can be found, for example, in Hagers
Handbuch der pharmazeutischen Praxis (5th Edition, Vol. 2, pp.
1026-1030, Springer Verlag, Berlin-Heidelberg-New York 1991). In
some embodiments, the plant biomass used for fermentation is
prepared from the maceration of the stalks and leaves of
Arundinaria gigantea (i.e., bamboo). In some embodiments, the plant
biomass used for fermentation is prepared from the maceration of
the seeds (i.e., beans) of Dipteryx odorata (i.e., tonka bean). In
some embodiments, the plant biomass used for fermentation is
prepared from the maceration of the roots of Raphanus sativus
(i.e., radish).
[0057] The fermentation broth can be prepared by extraction of the
plant material with water in the mildly alkaline range and removal
of any insoluble solids via filtration or centrifuging, which may
be optionally repeated. Alternatively, the extraction process may
be carried out in an aqueous medium, in the acidic range, the
proteins being precipitated, separated off and re-dissolved in
water in the mildly alkaline range. In some embodiments, the bamboo
stalks and leaves are size-reduced, ground and dispersed in water
or alkaline aqueous medium, and directly fermented without further
extraction or working up.
[0058] To prepare the fermentation broth, other typical additives
may be incorporated in these starting materials including, for
example, soya peptone, malt extract or fermentable sugars (for
example sucrose or glucose). The fermentation broth can be adjusted
to a starting pH of about 4.5 to a pH of about 8.5, followed by the
inoculation step using lactic acid bacteria and, optionally,
yeasts. The lactic acid bacteria and optional yeast may be used in
different quantities and ratios by weight. For example, the
bacteria Lactobacillus lactis can be used in quantities of 10.sup.2
to 10.sup.8 CFU/mL. The ratio by weight of the various lactic acid
bacteria to one another, i.e. Lactobacillus, Lactococcus and
Leuconcostoc, may be from 1:1000 to 1000:1 and is preferably from
1:100 to 100:1. The yeasts may be used in quantities of 10.sup.2 to
10.sup.7 CFU/mL. The ratio by weight between bacteria and enzymes
may ultimately be 1:100000 to 100000:1 or 1:1000 to 1000:1.
[0059] Fermentation can be carried out at temperatures of 20 to
37.degree. C. in a static or closed stirred tank for 12 and 48
hours. In some embodiments, the fermentation of bamboo stalks and
leaves is performed using the bacteria Lactobacillus lactis. In
some embodiments, the fermentation of tonka beans is performed
using the bacteria Lactobacillus lactis. In some embodiments, the
fermentation of radish roots is performed using the bacteria
Leuconcostoc lactis. In the course of the fermentation process, the
fermentable sugars are converted into organic acids, ethanol,
carbon dioxide and aromatics, with a fall in the pH to about 4 or
5. In addition, a bio-silicate is formed with the silica from the
plant matrix. The resulting fermentation product can be recovered
using separation techniques known per se such as, for example,
centrifuging, membrane filtration (microfiltration,
ultrafiltration, nanofiltration), liquid/liquid or solid phase
extraction, chromatography, precipitation from solvents and the
like. The microorganisms still present in the fermentation products
are removed using known techniques, such as heat treatment
(pasteurization, sterilization), cell destruction, microfiltration,
centrifuging and the like.
[0060] The bio-silicate fermentation product may be a solid
precipitate, or isolated as a solution by lowering the pH. In some
embodiments, the bio-silicate fermentation product is
Lactobacillus/Arundinaria gigantea leaf ferment filtrate,
Lactobacillus/Dipteryx odorata seed ferment filtrate,
Leuconcostoc/Raphanus sativus (radish) root ferment filtrate, or
combinations thereof. In some embodiments, the bio-silicate
fermentation product is the combination of Lactobacillus/Dipteryx
odorata seed ferment filtrate and Leuconcostoc/Raphanus sativus
root ferment filtrate. In some embodiments, the bio-silicate
fermentation product is the combination of
Lactobacillus/Arundinaria gigantea leaf ferment filtrate and
Lactobacillus/Dipteryx odorata seed ferment filtrate. In some
embodiments, the bio-silicate fermentation product is the
combination of Lactobacillus/Arundinaria gigantea leaf ferment
filtrate and Leuconcostoc/Raphanus sativus root ferment filtrate.
In some embodiments, the bio-silicate fermentation product is the
combination of Lactobacillus/Arundinaria gigantea leaf ferment
filtrate, Lactobacillus/Dipteryx odorata seed ferment filtrate, and
Leuconcostoc/Raphanus sativus root ferment filtrate. In some
embodiments, the bio-silicate fermentation product is
Leuconcostoc/Raphanus sativus root ferment filtrate. In some
embodiments, the bio-silicate fermentation product is
Lactobacillus/Dipteryx odorata seed ferment filtrate. In some
embodiments, the bio-silicate fermentation product is
Lactobacillus/Arundinaria gigantea leaf ferment filtrate.
[0061] In some embodiments, the bio-silicate fermentation product
is a viscous liquid having an acidic to neutral pH of between about
3.5 and about 7.0. In some embodiments, the bio-silicate
fermentation product is Leuconcostoc/Raphanus sativus root ferment
filtrate having an acidic pH of between about 4.0 and about 6.0. In
some embodiments, the bio-silicate fermentation product is
Lactobacillus/Dipteryx odorata seed ferment filtrate having an
acidic to neutral pH of between about 5.0 and about 7.0. In some
embodiments, the bio-silicate fermentation product is
Lactobacillus/Arundinaria gigantea leaf ferment filtrate having an
acidic pH of between about 3.5 and about 6.0. In some embodiments,
the bio-silicate fermentation product is a combination of
Lactobacillus/Dipteryx odorata seed ferment filtrate and
Leuconcostoc/Raphanus sativus root ferment filtrate, having an
acidic pH of between about 4.0 and about 6.5. In some embodiments,
the bio-silicate fermentation product is the combination of
Lactobacillus/Arundinaria gigantea leaf ferment filtrate and
Lactobacillus/Dipteryx odorata seed ferment filtrate, having an
acidic pH of between about 3.5 and about 6.5. In some embodiments,
the bio-silicate fermentation product is the combination of
Lactobacillus/Arundinaria gigantea leaf ferment filtrate and
Leuconcostoc/Raphanus sativus root ferment filtrate, having an
acidic pH of between about 3.5 and about 6.5. In some embodiments,
the bio-silicate fermentation product is the combination of
Lactobacillus/Arundinaria gigantea leaf ferment filtrate,
Lactobacillus/Dipteryx odorata seed ferment filtrate, and
Leuconcostoc/Raphanus sativus root ferment filtrate, having an
acidic pH of between about 3.5 and about 6.8.
[0062] In some embodiments, the bio-silicate fermentation product
has an acidic to neutral pH of between about 3.5 and about 7.0, a
bacterial cell count of less than 100 CFU/g, and a yeast and mold
content of less than 100 CFU/g. For example, the bio-silicate
fermentation product can be Lactobacillus/Arundinaria gigantea leaf
ferment filtrate having an acidic pH of between about 3.5 and about
6.0, a bacterial cell count of less than 100 CFU/g, and a yeast and
mold content of less than 100 CFU/g. The bio-silicate fermentation
product suitable for use in the texture enhancer is commercially
available and can be purchased from, for example. The Garden of
Naturalsolution Co., Ltd. (Gyeonggi-do, South Korea), Active Micro
Technologies, LLC (Lincolnton, N.C.), Greentech USA (Yarmouth,
Me.), Sederma SAS (Yvelines, France), and Active Concepts, LLC
(Lincolnton, N.C.).
[0063] In some embodiments, the texture enhancer contains about
0.50 to 10.0% bio-silicate fermentation product. In some
embodiments, the texture enhancer contains about 1.0% bio-silicate
fermentation product, or about 1.3%, about 1.5%, about 1.8%, about
2.0%, about 2.5%, about 2.8%, about 3.0%, about 3.5%, about 4.0%,
about 4.5%, about 5.0%, about 5.5%, about 6.0%, about 6.5%, about
7.0%, about 7.5%, or about 8.0% bio-silicate fermentation product.
In some embodiments, the texture enhancer contains about 0.75 to
9.0% bio-silicate fermentation product, or about 0.80 to 8.4%,
about 1.0 to 7.2%, about 1.2 to 6.3%, about 1.4 to 5.0%, about 1.5
to 4.3%, about 1.8 to 3.8%, about 2.0 to 3.2%, about 2.1 to 2.8%,
or about 2.3 to 2.5% bio-silicate fermentation product. In some
embodiments, the texture enhancer contains about 1.5 to 3.5%
bio-silicate fermentation product. In some embodiments, the texture
enhancer contains about 2.0 to 3.5% bio-silicate fermentation
product. In some embodiments, the texture enhancer contains about
2.0 to 3.0% bio-silicate fermentation product.
[0064] The polysaccharide conditioner of the texture enhancer is a
high molecular weight, water soluble carbohydrate polymer produced
by a microorganism. Similar to the bio-chelated silica, the
polysaccharide conditioner is a natural alternative to inert,
synthetic silicone elastomer fluids. The polysaccharide
conditioner, when combined with the other ingredients of the
texture enhancer, acts as a sensorial modifier contributing to the
overall non-greasy feel of the gel texturizer base. In fact, the
specific combination of the polysaccharide conditioner and
bio-silicate fermentation product imparts skin conditioning
properties to the texture enhancer, thereby improving the sensory
perception of the gel texturizer base.
[0065] The polysaccharide conditioner of the texture enhancer is
any suitable hetero-polysaccharide having repeating units of any
two or more saccharides, such as, for example, fucose residues,
glucose residues, fructose residues, rhamnose residues, glucuronic
acid residues, mannose residues, galactose residues, galacturonic
acid residues, and derivatives thereof. In some embodiments, the
polysaccharide conditioner is a hetero-polysaccharide having a
repetition of any three of the following saccharides: fucose
residues, galacturonic acid residues, rhamnose residues, galactose
residues, glucuronic acid residues, glucose residues, fructose
residues, and derivatives thereof. In some embodiments, the
polysaccharide conditioner is a hetero-polysaccharide with
repeating units of fucose, galactose, and galacturonic acid
residues. In some embodiments, the polysaccharide conditioner is a
hetero-polysaccharide with repeating units of rhamnose, galactose,
and glucuronic acid residues. In some embodiments, the
polysaccharide conditioner is a hetero-polysaccharide with
repeating units of fucose, glucose, and glucuronic acid
residues.
[0066] In some embodiments, the polysaccharide conditioner is a
hetero-polysaccharide obtained by the bacterial fermentation of
non-genetically modified soy and/or corn (i.e., sorbitol). In some
embodiments, the polysaccharide conditioner is a biosaccharide gum,
such as, for example, biosaccharide gum-1, biosaccharide gum-2,
biosaccharide gum-3, biosaccharide gum-4, and biosaccharide gum-5.
In some embodiments, the polysaccharide conditioner is
biosaccharide gum-1. Polysaccharide conditioners suitable for use
in the texture enhancer are commercially available and can be
purchased from, for example, Solabia Group (Pantin, France) and SMA
Collaboratives, LLC (Pompano Beach, Fla.).
[0067] In some embodiments, the texture enhancer contains about
0.50 to 10.0% polysaccharide conditioner. In some embodiments, the
texture enhancer contains about 1.0% polysaccharide conditioner, or
about 1.3%, about 1.5%, about 1.8%, about 2.0%, about 2.5%, about
2.8%, about 3.0%, about 3.5%, about 4.0%, about 4.5%, about 5.0%,
about 5.5%, about 6.0%, about 6.5%, about 7.0%, about 7.5%, or
about 8.0% polysaccharide conditioner. In some embodiments, the
texture enhancer contains about 0.75 to 9.0% polysaccharide
conditioner, or about 0.80 to 8.4%, about 1.0 to 7.2%, about 1.2 to
6.3%, about 1.4 to 5.0%, about 1.5 to 4.3%, about 1.8 to 3.8%,
about 2.0 to 3.2%, about 2.1 to 2.8%, or about 2.3 to 2.5%
polysaccharide conditioner. In some embodiments, the texture
enhancer contains about 1.5 to 3.5% polysaccharide conditioner. In
some embodiments, the texture enhancer contains about 2.0 to 3.5%
polysaccharide conditioner. In some embodiments, the texture
enhancer contains about 2.0 to 3.0% polysaccharide conditioner.
[0068] As mentioned previously, the combination of the bio-chelated
silica and polysaccharide conditioner within the texture enhancer
imparts additional film-forming properties and a silky, smooth
feeling to the gel texturizer base of the instant invention. As
such, the weight to weight ratio of the bio-silicate fermentation
product to the polysaccharide conditioner of the texture enhancer
of the gel texturizer base of the invention will range from 0.45 to
1.5. For example, a texture enhancer containing 88.0% coconut
alkanes and 6.0% coco-caprylate/caprate, can also have 3.1% of the
bio-silicate fermentation product, and 2.9% of the polysaccharide
conditioner. Thus, the weight to weight ratio of the bio-silicate
fermentation product to the polysaccharide conditioner of the
texture enhancer is 1.07 (i.e., 3.1:2.9=1.07). In some embodiments,
the weight to weight ratio of the bio-silicate fermentation product
to the polysaccharide conditioner of the texture enhancer can be
about 0.60, 0.65, 0.70, 0.75, 0.80, 0.85, 0.90, 0.95, 1.0, or about
1.3. In some embodiments, the weight to weight ratio of the
bio-silicate fermentation product to the polysaccharide conditioner
of the texture enhancer ranges from 0.5 to 1.5, or from 0.6 to 1.4,
or 0.75 to 1.3, or from 0.8 to 1.2, or from 0.85 to 1.15. In some
embodiments, the weight to weight ratio of the bio-silicate
fermentation product to the polysaccharide conditioner of the
texture enhancer ranges from 0.9 to 1.1. In some embodiments, the
weight to weight ratio of the bio-silicate fermentation product to
the polysaccharide conditioner of the texture enhancer is 1.0.
[0069] In some embodiments, the texture enhancer of the gel
texturizer base comprises coconut alkanes in the amount of about
70.0 to 98.0%, coco-caprylate/caprate in the amount of about 1.0 to
12.0%, the bio-silicate fermentation product in the amount of about
0.50 to 10.0%, and the polysaccharide conditioner in the amount of
about 0.50 to 10.0%. In some embodiments, the texture enhancer of
the gel texturizer base comprises coconut alkanes in the amount of
about 80.0 to 95.0%, coco-caprylate/caprate in the amount of about
3.3 to 9.4%, the bio-silicate fermentation product in the amount of
about 1.4 to 5.0%, and the polysaccharide conditioner in the amount
of about 1.4 to 5.0%. In some embodiments, the texture enhancer of
the gel texturizer base comprises coconut alkanes in the amount of
about 87.0 to 92.0%, coco-caprylate/caprate in the amount of about
4.0 to 6.5%, the bio-silicate fermentation product in the amount of
about 1.5 to 3.5%, and the polysaccharide conditioner in the amount
of about 1.5 to 3.5%. In some embodiments, the texture enhancer of
the gel texturizer base comprises coconut alkanes in the amount of
about 88.0 to 91.0%, coco-caprylate/caprate in the amount of about
4.5 to 6.0%, the bio-silicate fermentation product in the amount of
about 2.0 to 3.5%, and the polysaccharide conditioner in the amount
of about 2.0 to 3.5%. In some embodiments, the texture enhancer of
the gel texturizer base comprises coconut alkanes in the amount of
about 89.0 to 90.5%, coco-caprylate/caprate in the amount of about
5.0 to 6.0%, the bio-silicate fermentation product in the amount of
about 2.0 to 3.0%, and the polysaccharide conditioner in the amount
of about 2.0 to 3.0%.
Gum Texture Modifiers
[0070] The gum texture modifier component of the gel texturizer
base of the invention is a combination of gelling agents and
thickeners, sometimes referred to as the "gelator" of the
dispersion system. The gum texture modifier is a flowable powder
that is off-white in color. The constituents of the gum texture
modifier of the gel texturizer base include clay, polysaccharide
thickener, polysaccharide stabilizer, and glyceryl stearate or
glyceryl stearate SE. The gum texture modifier not only thickens
the fluid of the gel matrix and suspends dispersions of additives
in the fluid (i.e., the solvent), it also improves the stability of
such ensuing dispersion formulations, the details of which are
described in the present application.
[0071] The clay of the gum texture modifier is an interactive
filler and swelling agent which is used to impart significant
viscosity and thixotropic enhancement to the base fluid (i.e., the
solvent) without significant elasticity. The clay of the gum
texture modifier is water-washed, natural, has a net negative
charge, and is capable of swelling when dispersed throughout the
hydrophilic phase (i.e., the solvent) and lipophilic phase (i.e.,
the texture enhancer) of the gel texturizer base. The swelling
properties of these natural clay minerals permit colloidal
particles to form upon hydration, which are able to maintain a
uniform suspension in solution and allowing the formation of a gel
with rheological characteristics that are typical of the clay
mineral used.
[0072] Clays are products that are already well known per se, which
are described, for example, in the publication "Mineralogie des
argiles [Mineralogy of Clays]," S. Caillere, S. Henin, M.
Rautureau, 2nd Edition 1982, Masson, the teaching of which is
included herein by reference. Clays are silicates containing a
cation that may be chosen from calcium, magnesium, aluminum,
sodium, potassium and lithium cations, and mixtures thereof. In
some embodiments, the clay of the gum texture modifier is a clay of
the smectite family, vermiculite family, stevensite family, or
chlorite family. In some embodiments, the clay of the gum texture
modifier is a smectite clay.
[0073] Smectite clays have characteristic layered structures and
consequently individual crystals have a flake or platelet shape.
Smectites are composed of two silica tetrahedral sheets with a
central octahedral sheet and are designated as a 2:1
phyllosilicates. Water molecules and cations occupy the space
between the 2:1 layers (See, Bergava, F., et al. 2006, Handbook of
Clay Science, Elsevier Scientific Publisher (1st ed.), p. 15). In a
unit layer of smectite, the continuous central octahedral layer can
contain alumina or magnesia, which is bound between two tetrahedral
silica sheets through three bridging oxygens, thereby forming
linked rings with hexagonal openings. A single smectite clay
crystal layer is about 1 nanometer thick, while the lateral
dimensions of these layers vary from 200 nm to several microns
depending on the particular clay mineral. See, Patel, H., et al.
2010 Household and Personal Care today (4) 31-36.
[0074] The isomorphic substitution in octahedral or tetrahedral
generates net negative charges at the surface of the weakly bound
platelets, which allows water and other polar molecules to enter
within the interlayer space of the stacked layers. Isomorphic
substitution within the layer (either in octahedral or tetrahedral
site) by Mg.sup.2+, Fe.sup.2+ or Al.sup.3+ generates negative
charges that can be counter balanced by hydrated alkali or alkaline
earth cations (Na.sup.+, K.sup.+, Ca.sup.2+, Li.sup.+, etc.). For
example, when the predominant octahedral cation is Al.sup.3+, as in
montmorillonite, the clay lattice is charge balanced by filling two
of every three octahedral positions (i.e., dioctahedral clay). If
the predominant octahedral cation is Mg.sup.2+, as in saponite and
hectorite, all three of the octahedral positions are filled (i.e.,
trioctahedral clay) See, Patel, H., et al. 2010 Household and
Personal Care today (4) 31-36.
[0075] In some embodiments, the smectite clay of the gum texture
modifier is a trilayer clay, such as, for example,
montmorillonites, hectorites, bentonites, attapulgites, sepiolites,
beidellites, saponites, or mixtures thereof. In some embodiments,
the smectite clay of the gum texture modifier is montmorillonite,
bentonite, hectorite, or mixtures thereof. In some embodiments, the
smectite clay of the gum texture modifier is bentonite. Bentonite
is an ore or product with substantial smectite content, most often
montmorillonite. In some embodiments, the clay used in the gum
texture modifier is natural and water-washed bentonite clay. Clays
suitable for use in the gum texture modifier are commercially
available and can be purchased from, for example, Vanderbilt
Minerals, LLC (Norwalk, Conn.), Spectrum Chemical Mfg. Corp. (New
Brunswick, N.J.), The Innovation Company (Dreux, France), and
Eckart America Corporation (Painesville, Ohio).
[0076] In some embodiments, the gum texture modifier contains about
30.0 to 70.0% of the clay. In some embodiments, the gum texture
modifier contains about 33.0% of the clay, or about 35.0%, about
37.5%, about 39.2%, about 41.2%, about 43.0%, about 44.8%, about
46.2%, about 47.8%, about 49.2%, about 52.5%, about 53.5%, about
54.5%, about 56.0%, about 56.5%, about 57.0%, about 59.0%, or about
64.0% of the clay. In some embodiments, the gum texture modifier
contains about 38.0 to 62.0% of the clay, or about 41.0 to 60.8%,
about 42.5 to 59.5%, about 43.0 to 58.0%, about 44.0 to 57.2%,
about 45.8 to 55.5%, about 46.5 to 54.0%, about 47.0 to 52.0%,
about 48.0 to 51.5%, about 48.2 to 50.8%, or about 48.5 to 49.5% of
the clay. In some embodiments, the gum texture modifier contains
about 44.5 to 53.0% of the clay. In some embodiments, the gum
texture modifier contains about 46.0 to 51.0% of the clay. In some
embodiments, the gum texture modifier contains about 47.5 to 50.0%
of the clay.
[0077] The polysaccharide thickener of the gum texture modifier is
a rheological control agent which is used to impart viscosity as
well as elasticity to the base fluid of the dispersion network. The
polysaccharide thickener of the gum texture modifier is a natural
polymer, which, when combined with a polysaccharide stabilizer and
glyceryl stearate or glyceryl stearate SE, helps build the
viscoelastic network in the dispersion matrix. Also a suspending
agent, the polysaccharide thickener of the gum texture modifier
helps prevent sedimentation of solid particulates (i.e., the clay)
of the gel texturizer base.
[0078] Polysaccharide thickeners are a type of naturally derived
polymers constructed with simple sugar building blocks that become
hydrated in an aqueous environment. In some embodiments, the
polysaccharide thickeners are anionic polysaccharides, cationic
polysaccharides, nonionic polysaccharides, or amphoteric
polysaccharides. In some embodiments, the polysaccharide thickener
of the gum texture modifier is a microbial polysaccharide.
Polysaccharide thickeners useful in the gum texture modifier
include, but are not limited to, pectin, gum arabic, acacia gum,
tragacanth gum, ghatti gum, cassia gum, tara gum, carob gum, karaya
gum, xanthan gum, chitosan, and guar gum. In some embodiments, the
polysaccharide thickener of the gum texture modifier can be pectin,
gum arabic, tragacanth gum, karaya gum, xanthan gum, chitosan, guar
gum, or combinations thereof. In some embodiments, the
polysaccharide thickener can be xanthan gum.
[0079] Xanthan gum is a high molecular weight heteropolysaccharide
gum produced by a pure-culture fermentation of a carbohydrate with
Xanthomonas campestris. Xanthan gum is composed of glucose,
glucuronic acid, 6-acetylmannose, and 4,6-pyruvylated mannose
residues. The double helical structure of xanthan gum undergoes
significant hydrogen bonding in solution, forming a weak
three-dimensional network structure when at rest or when subjected
to very low deformations. Under high deformations, the three
dimensional structure is easily broken down, imparting rheological
behavior. Polysaccharide thickeners suitable for use in the gum
texture modifier are commercially available and can be purchased
from, for example, Vanderbilt Minerals, LLC (Norwalk, Conn.),
Spectrum Chemical Mfg. Corp. (New Brunswick, N.J.), BASF Care
Solutions LLC (Florham Park, N.J.), and Solvay Novecare S.A.
(Brussels, Belgium).
[0080] In some embodiments, the gum texture modifier contains about
10.0 to 32.0% of the polysaccharide thickener. In some embodiments,
the gum texture modifier contains about 13.5% of the polysaccharide
thickener, or about 16.0%, about 17.5%, about 19.0%, about 21.0%,
about 23.0%, about 25.0%, about 27.0%, about 29.0%, about 31.0%, or
about 33.0% of the polysaccharide thickener. In some embodiments,
the gum texture modifier contains about 12.0 to 36.4% of the
polysaccharide thickener, or about 14.5 to 33.2%, about 16.2 to
31.5%, about 18.8 to 29.4%, about 19.0 to 28.0%, about 20.0 to
26.2%, about 21.0 to 25.0%, or about 21.8 to 23.8% of the
polysaccharide thickener. In some embodiments, the gum texture
modifier contains about 19.5 to 25.0% of the polysaccharide
thickener. In some embodiments, the gum texture modifier contains
about 20.0 to 24.0% of the polysaccharide thickener. In some
embodiments, the gum texture modifier contains about 21.0 to 23.0%
of the polysaccharide thickener.
[0081] The polysaccharide stabilizer of the gum texture modifier is
thixotropic agent and natural structuring polymer that exhibits a
strong three-dimensional structure in lean solvent systems while
providing optimum rheological characteristics. The polysaccharide
stabilizer works with the clay of the gum texture modifier to
provide additional thixotropic properties to the gel texturizer
base. These thixotropic properties allow the gel base to exhibit a
stable form at rest, but become more fluid when agitated. The
polysaccharide stabilizer strengthens the gel matrix structure with
the polysaccharide thickener and glyceryl stearate or glyceryl
stearate SE.
[0082] For the purpose of the present invention, polysaccharide
stabilizers include naturally derived polymers prepared from
seaweed or algae, such as, for example, brown seaweed or brown
algae, red seaweed or red algae, green algae, or red-purple algae.
In some embodiments, the polysaccharide stabilizer is alginate
isolated from brown seaweed, agar isolated from red algae, fucoidan
isolated from brown algae, agarose isolated from red algae,
carrageenan isolated from red seaweed, ulvan isolated from green
algae, or combinations thereof. In some embodiments, the
polysaccharide stabilizer is a sulfated galactose-based
polysaccharide prepared from seaweed or algae, such as, for
example, agar, carrageenan, ulvan, alginate, fucoidan, or
combinations thereof. In some embodiments, the polysaccharide
stabilizer is a sulfated galactose-based polysaccharide prepared
from seaweed selected from agar, carrageenan, or alginate. In some
embodiments, the polysaccharide stabilizer of the gum texture
modifier is a sulfated galactose-based polysaccharide prepared from
red seaweed or algae. In some embodiments, the polysaccharide
stabilizer is a sulfated galactose-based polysaccharide prepared
from seaweed or algae can be carrageenan.
[0083] The polysaccharide stabilizer, such as carrageenan, can be
obtained by systematically gathering seaweed, followed by quickly
drying and baling the seaweed to maintain its quality. At the
manufacturing site the dried seaweed is mechanically ground and
sieved to eliminate impurities such as sand and salt. Following
extensive washing to ensure additional quality, the seaweed
undergoes a hot extraction process to separate the polysaccharide
stabilizer (e.g., carrageenan) from the extraneous plant fiber.
Removal of the cellulosic material requires a two-step
clarification process. First, the dissolved polysaccharide
stabilizer mixture (i.e., carrageenan) is centrifuged to eliminate
dense cellulosic particles. Then, filtration is used to remove the
smaller particles. The solution is then concentrated by evaporation
to accommodate the removal of water. The concentrated
polysaccharide stabilizer solution (i.e., carrageenan) is
precipitated in a suitable solvent, such as, for example, isopropyl
alcohol. For instance, because carrageenan is insoluble in alcohol,
the carrageenan filtrate turns into a coagulum of carrageenan,
alcohol and water. The coagulum is compressed to remove the liquids
and vacuum dried to completely remove the alcohol. Drying is
completed on a belt drier and the dried coagulum is then ground to
specification. Polysaccharide stabilizers suitable for use in the
gum texture modifier are commercially available and can be
purchased from, for example, SEPPIC (Paris, France), FMC Health and
Nutrition (Philadelphia, Pa.), and Caribbean Natural Products Inc.
(Fairfield, N.J.).
[0084] Carrageenan is a high molecular weight sulfated cell wall
polysaccharide found in red seaweed and red algae, containing
repeating sulfated and unsulfated disaccharides of galactose and
3,6-anhydrogalactose. The units are joined by alternating
.alpha.-1-3 and .beta.-1-4 glycosidic linkages. Carrageenans are
classified into three main categories: kappa (.kappa.); iota ();
and lambda (.lamda.). The three types of carrageenan molecules
differ by (1) the types of linkages between the galactose units,
and (2) the point of attachment of the sulfate groups to the
galactose units. These apparently small differences in chemical
constitution and structure make major differences in the gelling
and structuring properties of each type of molecule.
[0085] Kappa carrageenans produce strong rigid gels, exhibit some
syneresis (i.e., contraction accompanied by the expulsion of a
liquid from a gel), and form helices with potassium ions.
Introduction of calcium ions causes .kappa.-carrageenans helices to
aggregate. As a result, the gel contracts and becomes brittle.
Kappa carrageenans are characterized by an ester sulfate content of
approximately 25% (theoretically having 1 sulfate group per
repeating unit; the most naturally abundant type of carrageenan
molecule). Iota carrageenans, on the other hand, form more flaccid,
compliant, and elastic gels. In addition, iota carrageenans also
form helices with calcium ions. Aggregation is limited in
t-carrageenans, and t-carrageenans do not undergo syneresis. Iota
carrageenans are characterized by an ester sulfate content of
approximately 32% (theoretically having 2 sulfate groups per
repeating unit; the least naturally abundant type of carrageenan
molecule). Lambda carrageenans theoretically have 3 sulfate groups
per repeating unit, which causes the sugar molecules to assume the
flat 4-C-1 confirmation. Because of this flat structure,
.lamda.-carrageenans do not gel in water, exhibit a random
distribution of polymer chains, and interact strongly with
proteins. Lambda carrageenans are characterized by an ester sulfate
content of approximately 35%.
[0086] Some types of seaweed species contains relatively pure
carrageenan fractions. Kappaphycus Alvarezii contains largely
.kappa. carrageenan and .mu. carrageenan which may be converted to
kappa carrageenan by alkali treatment. Eucheuma Denticulatum
contains a similarly high level of t-carrageenan with some v
carrageenan precursor. Other seaweeds are more mixed in their
carrageenan content. Furcellaran contains a strong gelling type
carrageenan which is a mix of .kappa. carrageenan and .beta.
carrageenan in a roughly 3:2 ratio. Other seaweed types, such as
Chondrus crispus and Gigartina types contain not only a mix of
.kappa. and .lamda. type carrageenans, but also a type of
carrageenan polymer that is essentially a block copolymer of
different carrageenan types. This gives the carrageenan made from
Gigartina or Chondrus weed species quite different properties from
those made from the Eucheuma type species from South east Asia.
[0087] In some embodiments, the polysaccharide stabilizer of the
gum texture modifier is kappa-carrageenan, iota-carrageenan,
lambda-carrageenan, or a carrageenan mixture thereof. The
determination of the effective proportion of kappa-, iota-, and
lambda-carrageenans in the polysaccharide stabilizer is dependent
upon the desired balance of gel efficiency and consistency
requirements, and the rheological characteristics associated
therewith. For the purposes of the instant invention, carrageenan
mixtures of kappa-carrageenan, iota-carrageenan, and
lambda-carrageenan should include only a minimal amount of
lambda-carrageenan. As such, the proportion of lambda-carrageenan
in the carrageenan mixture should not be above about 20% by weight
of the carrageenan mixture, preferably not above about 12% by
weight. In some embodiments, the polysaccharide stabilizer of the
gum texture modifier is a carrageenan mixture of kappa-carrageenan
and iota-carrageen. In some embodiments, the carrageenan mixture of
kappa-carrageenan and iota-carrageen may consist of, or consist
essentially of, about 25% to about 75% by weight of
kappa-carrageenans and about 25% to about 75% by weight of
iota-carrageenans. In some embodiments, the carrageenan mixture of
kappa-carrageenan and iota-carrageen may consist of, or consist
essentially of, about 75% to about 95% by weight of
kappa-carrageenans and about 5% to about 25% by weight of
iota-carrageenans. In some embodiments of the present invention,
the carrageenan mixture may consist essentially of about 75% to
about 90% by weight of kappa-carrageenans and about 10% to about
25% by weight of iota-carrageenans. In some embodiments, the
polysaccharide stabilizer of the gum texture modifier is
kappa-carrageenan. In some embodiments, the polysaccharide
stabilizer is a sulfated galactose-based polysaccharide polymer
having a chemical structure comprising repeating units of
[C.sub.24H.sub.36O.sub.25S.sub.2.sup.-2] and having a molecular
weight of about 788.647 g/mol plus or minus 5% per repeating
unit.
[0088] In some embodiments, the gum texture modifier contains about
0.50 to 12.0% of the polysaccharide stabilizer. In some
embodiments, the gum texture modifier contains about 0.5% of the
polysaccharide stabilizer, or about 1.0%, about 1.5%, about 2.0%,
about 2.5%, about 3.0%, about 3.5%, about 4.0%, about 4.5%, about
5.0%, about 5.5%, about 6.0%, about 6.5%, about 7.0%, about 7.5%,
or about 8.0% of the polysaccharide stabilizer. In some
embodiments, the gum texture modifier contains about 0.65 to 10.0%
of the polysaccharide stabilizer, or about 0.75 to 9.5%, about 0.85
to 9.0%, about 1.0 to 8.6%, about 1.4 to 8.2%, about 1.8 to 7.8%,
about 2.3 to 7.4%, about 2.7 to 6.8%, about 3.0 to 6.3%, about 3.3
to 5.8%, about 3.8 to 5.2%, or about 4.6 to 5.0% of the
polysaccharide stabilizer. In some embodiments, the gum texture
modifier contains about 2.8 to 6.0% of the polysaccharide
stabilizer. In some embodiments, the gum texture modifier contains
about 3.0 to 5.55% of the polysaccharide stabilizer. In some
embodiments, the gum texture modifier contains about 4.2 to 5.2% of
the polysaccharide stabilizer.
[0089] Glyceryl stearate (IUPAC name: "octadecanoic acid, reaction
products with 1,2,3-propanetriol (1:1), neutralized"), sometimes
referred to as glycerol stearate, is the esterification product of
plant-derived glycerol and stearic acid, a fatty acid obtained from
palm kernel, vegetable, or soy oil. Glyceryl stearate is also
available commercially as glyceryl stearate SE, the
self-emulsifying grade of glyceryl stearate ("GMS SE"). Glyceryl
stearate SE typically contains some sodium stearate and/or
potassium stearate in amounts ranging from about 2% to about 8%.
Glyceryl stearate and GMS SE are both plant-derived emulsifiers and
dispersing agents. With the polysaccharide stabilizer and
polysaccharide thickener of the gum texture modifier, glyceryl
stearate or GMS SE imparts additional stability and strengthens the
gel matrix structure of the gel texturizer base. In some
embodiments, glyceryl stearate is used in the gum texture modifier.
In some embodiments, glyceryl stearate SE is used in the gum
texture modifier. Glyceryl stearate SE for use in the gum texture
modifier is commercially available and can be purchased from, for
example, BASF Care Solutions LLC (Florham Park, N.J.), Stearinerie
Dubois (Boulogne-Billancourt, France), Croda International Plc.
(Snaith, France), and Berg & Schmidt America LLC (Libertyville,
Ill.).
[0090] In some embodiments, the gum texture modifier contains about
18.0 to 34.0% glyceryl stearate. In some embodiments, the gum
texture modifier contains about 20.5% glyceryl stearate, or about
21.0%, about 21.5%, about 22.0%, about 22.5%, about 23.0%, about
23.5%, about 24.0%, about 24.5%, about 25.0%, about 25.5%, about
26.0%, about 26.5%, about 27.0%, about 27.5%, or about 28.0%
glyceryl stearate. In some embodiments, the gum texture modifier
contains about 20.0 to 30.0% glyceryl stearate, or about 20.3 to
29.5%, about 20.6 to 29.0%, about 21.0 to 28.6%, about 21.4 to
28.2%, about 21.8 to 27.8%, about 22.3 to 7.4%, about 22.7 to
26.8%, about 23.0 to 26.3%, about 23.3 to 25.8%, about 23.8 to
25.2%, or about 24.1 to 24.7% glyceryl stearate. In some
embodiments, the gum texture modifier contains about 21.5 to 28.0%
glyceryl stearate. In some embodiments, the gum texture modifier
contains about 23.0 to 26.85% glyceryl stearate. In some
embodiments, the gum texture modifier contains about 23.5 to 25.5%
glyceryl stearate.
[0091] In some embodiments, the gum texture modifier contains about
18.0 to 34% glyceryl stearate SE. In some embodiments, the gum
texture modifier contains about 20.5% glyceryl stearate SE, or
about 21.0%, about 21.5%, about 22.0%, about 22.5%, about 23.0%,
about 23.5%, about 24.0%, about 24.5%, about 25.0%, about 25.5%,
about 26.0%, about 26.5%, about 27.0%, about 27.5%, or about 28.0%
glyceryl stearate SE. In some embodiments, the gum texture modifier
contains about 20.0 to 30.0% glyceryl stearate SE, or about 20.3 to
29.5%, about 20.6 to 29.0%, about 21.0 to 28.6%, about 21.4 to
28.2%, about 21.8 to 27.8%, about 22.3 to 7.4%, about 22.7 to
26.8%, about 23.0 to 26.3%, about 23.3 to 25.8%, about 23.8 to
25.2%, or about 24.1 to 24.7% glyceryl stearate SE. In some
embodiments, the gum texture modifier contains about 21.5 to 28.0%
glyceryl stearate SE. In some embodiments, the gum texture modifier
contains about 23.0 to 25.55% glyceryl stearate SE. In some
embodiments, the gum texture modifier contains about 24.0 to about
25.0% glyceryl stearate SE.
[0092] In some embodiments, the gum texture modifier of the gel
texturizer base comprises clay in the amount of about 30.0 to
70.0%, the polysaccharide thickener in the amount of about 10.0 to
32.0%, the polysaccharide stabilizer in the amount of about 0.50 to
12.0%, and glyceryl stearate in the amount of about 18.0 to 34.0%.
In some embodiments, the gum texture modifier of the gel texturizer
base comprises clay in the amount of about 38.0 to 62.0%, the
polysaccharide thickener in the amount of about 16.2 to 31.5%, the
polysaccharide stabilizer in the amount of about 1.4 to 8.2%, and
glyceryl stearate in the amount of about 20.0 to 30.0%. In some
embodiments, the gum texture modifier of the gel texturizer base
comprises clay in the amount of about 44.5 to 53.0%, the
polysaccharide thickener in the amount of about 19.5 to 25.0%, the
polysaccharide stabilizer in the amount of about 2.8 to 6.0%, and
glyceryl stearate in the amount of about 21.5 to 28.0%. In some
embodiments, the gum texture modifier of the gel texturizer base
comprises clay in the amount of about 46.0 to 51.0%, the
polysaccharide thickener in the amount of about 20.0 to 24.0%, the
polysaccharide stabilizer in the amount of about 3.0 to 5.55%, and
glyceryl stearate in the amount of about 23.0 to 26.85%. In some
embodiments, the gum texture modifier of the gel texturizer base
comprises clay in the amount of about 47.5 to 50.0%, the
polysaccharide thickener in the amount of about 21.0 to 23.0%, the
polysaccharide stabilizer in the amount of about 4.2 to 5.2%, and
glyceryl stearate in the amount of about 23.5 to 25.5%.
[0093] In some embodiments, the gum texture modifier of the gel
texturizer base comprises clay in the amount of about 30.0 to
70.0%, the polysaccharide thickener in the amount of about 10.0 to
32.0%, the polysaccharide stabilizer in the amount of about 0.50 to
12.0%, and glyceryl stearate SE in the amount of about 18.0 to
34.0%. In some embodiments, the gum texture modifier of the gel
texturizer base comprises clay in the amount of about 38.0 to
62.0%, the polysaccharide thickener in the amount of about 16.2 to
31.5%, the polysaccharide stabilizer in the amount of about 1.4 to
8.2%, and glyceryl stearate SE in the amount of about 20.0 to
30.0%. In some embodiments, the gum texture modifier of the gel
texturizer base comprises clay in the amount of about 44.5 to
53.0%, the polysaccharide thickener in the amount of about 19.5 to
25.0%, the polysaccharide stabilizer in the amount of about 2.8 to
6.0%, and glyceryl stearate SE in the amount of about 21.5 to
28.0%. In some embodiments, the gum texture modifier of the gel
texturizer base comprises clay in the amount of about 46.0 to
51.0%, the polysaccharide thickener in the amount of about 20.0 to
24.0%, the polysaccharide stabilizer in the amount of about 3.0 to
5.55%, and glyceryl stearate SE in the amount of about 23.0 to
26.85%. In some embodiments, the gum texture modifier of the gel
texturizer base comprises clay in the amount of about 47.5 to
50.0%, the polysaccharide thickener in the amount of about 21.0 to
23.0%, the polysaccharide stabilizer in the amount of about 4.2 to
5.2%, and glyceryl stearate SE in the amount of about 23.5 to
25.5%.
IV. Gel Texturizer Base Formulations
[0094] The gel texturizer base of the instant invention is a
particular type of disperse system, sometimes referred to as a
"hydrolipid dispersion," in which the lipophilic internal phase
(i.e., the texture enhancer) is dispersed throughout the
hydrophilic continuous phase (i.e., the solvent). Typically,
hydrolipid dispersions contain a relatively low amount of the
lipophilic phase (e.g., 2-20%) compared to the amount of the
hydrophilic phase (e.g., 80-98%). Such hydrolipid dispersion
systems are thermodynamically unstable, and are typically
stabilized by the addition of suitable large polymers, such as, for
example, acrylates/C10-30alkyl acrylate cross-polymers,
hydroxypropyl methylcellulose, or polyacrylate. The addition of the
large polymers, which are hydrated lyophilic colloids in the
aqueous phase, form mono- to multilamellar films at the interfaces
between the hydrophilic continuous phase and the lipophilic
internal phase, thus stabilizing the dispersion. In the case of the
instant invention, synthetic polymers, emulsifiers, and surfactants
conventionally used to stabilize hydrolipid dispersions (i.e., the
gel texturizer base) have been replaced with the gum texture
modifier, which is comprised of natural and non-synthetic
constituents that are considered to be less irritating to the
skin.
[0095] The gel texturizer base for cosmetic products includes
suitable amounts of a solvent, an texture enhancer, and a gum
texture modifier, as described herein. Each component of the gel
texturizer base, as described above, when combined together in the
suitable amounts provides the gel texturizer base with the proper
gel-like texture, consistency, viscosity, etc. for skin
applications. When incorporated in a cosmetic product, the gel
texturizer base acts as a vehicle for an even application and
uniform delivery of the additional active ingredients of said
cosmetic product, while providing the cosmetic product with
desirable sensory properties (i.e., quick skin absorption, silky
touch, not sticky, easily spreadable).
[0096] In some embodiments, the gel texturizer base comprises about
87.0 to 97.0% of the solvent. In some embodiments, the gel
texturizer base comprises about 87.5% of the solvent, or about
88.0%, about 88.5%, about 89.0%, about 89.5%, about 90.0%, about
90.5%, about 91.0%, about 91.5%, about 92.0%, about 92.5%, about
93.0%, about 93.5%, about 94.0%, about 94.5%, about 95.0%, about
95.5%, or about 96.0% of the solvent. In some embodiments, the gel
texturizer base comprises about 87.5 to 96.5% of the solvent, or
about 88.0 to 96.0%, about 88.5 to 95.5%, about 88.8 to 95.0%,
about 89.0 to 94.5%, about 89.2 to 94.0%, about 89.5 to 93.6%,
about 89.8 to 93.3%, about 90.0 to 93.0%, about 90.3 to 92.8%,
about 90.5 to 92.5%, about 90.8 to 92.2%, about 91.0 to 92.0%,
about 91.2 to 92.5%, about 91.5 to 91.0%, about 91.0 to 91.5%,
about 90.5 to 91.8%, or about 90.0 to 91.6% of the solvent. In some
embodiments, the gel texturizer base comprises about 89.0 to 94.0%
of the solvent. In some embodiments, the gel texturizer base
comprises about 90.0 to 93.0% of the solvent. In some embodiments,
the gel texturizer base comprises about 91.0 to 92.0% of the
solvent.
[0097] In some embodiments, the gel texturizer base comprises about
1.0 to 6.0% of the texture enhancer. In some embodiments, the gel
texturizer base comprises about 0.75% of the texture enhancer, or
about 1.0%, about 1.5%, about 2.0%, about 2.3%, about 2.5%, about
2.6%, about 2.7%, about 2.8%, about 2.9%, about 3.0%, about 3.3%,
about 3.5%, about 3.7%, about 4.0%, about 4.3%, about 4.5%, about
4.7%, about 5.0%, about 5.3%, about 5.5%, or about 5.8% of the
texture enhancer. In some embodiments, the gel texturizer base
comprises about 1.0 to 6.0% of the texture enhancer, or about 1.2
to 5.8%, about 1.3 to 5.6%, about 1.5 to 5.5%, about 1.8 to 5.2%,
about 2.0 to 5.0%, about 2.2 to 4.8%, about 2.3 to 4.6%, about 2.5
to 4.5%, about 2.8 to 4.2%, about 3.0 to 4.0%, about 2.0 to 4.0%,
about 2.3 to 3.8%, about 2.5 to 3.5%, about 2.6 to 3.3%, about 2.7
to 3.0%, or about 2.8 to 2.9% of the texture enhancer. In some
embodiments, the gel texturizer base comprises about 2.0 to 5.0% of
the texture enhancer. In some embodiments, the gel texturizer base
comprises about 2.2 to 4.5% of the texture enhancer. In some
embodiments, the gel texturizer base comprises about 2.4 to 4.0% of
the texture enhancer.
[0098] In some embodiments, the gel texturizer base comprises about
2.0 to 8.0% of the gum texture modifier. In some embodiments, the
gel texturizer base comprises about 3.0% of the gum texture
modifier, or about 3.5%, about 4.0%, about 4.5%, about 5.0%, about
5.2%, about 5.3%, about 5.4%, about 5.5%, about 5.6%, about 5.7%,
about 5.8%, about 5.9%, about 6.0%, about 6.4%, about 6.6%, about
6.8%, about 7.0%, about 7.3%, or about 7.5% of the gum texture
modifier. In some embodiments, the gel texturizer base comprises
about 3.5 to 7.5% of the gum texture modifier, or about 3.8 to
6.0%, about 4.0 to 6.8%, about 4.2 to 7.2%, about 4.4 to 7.0%,
about 4.6 to 6.8%, about 4.8 to 6.6%, about 5.0 to 6.4%, about 5.2
to 6.2%, about 5.4 to 6.0%, about 5.5 to 5.8%, or about 5.6 to 5.7%
of the gum texture modifier. In some embodiments, the gel
texturizer base comprises about 4.0 to 6.5% of the gum texture
modifier. In some embodiments, the gel texturizer base comprises
about 4.5 to 6.0% of the gum texture modifier. In some embodiments,
the gel texturizer base comprises about 5.0 to 6.0% of the gum
texture modifier.
[0099] The weight to weight ratio of the texture enhancer to the
gum texture modifier of the gel texturizer base of the invention
will range from 0.25 to 1.0. For example, a gel texturizer base
containing 91.5% of the plant juice solvent can also have 3.5% of
the texture enhancer, and 6.0% of gum texture modifier. Thus, the
weight to weight ratio of the texture enhancer to the gum texture
modifier is 0.58 (i.e., 3.5:6.0=0.58). In some embodiments, the
weight to weight ratio of the texture enhancer to the gum texture
modifier of the gel texturizer base can be about 0.28, 0.30, 0.32,
0.35, 0.38, 0.40, 0.43, 0.46, 0.48, 0.50, 0.51, 0.52, 0.53, 0.54,
0.55, 0.56, 0.57, 0.58, 0.59, 0.60, 0.62, 0.64, 0.65, 0.66, 0.68,
0.70, 0.72, 0.74, 0.75, 0.76, 0.78, 0.80, 0.82, 0.84, 0.85, 0.86,
0.88, 0.90, 0.92, 0.95, 0.98, or about 1.0. In some embodiments,
the weight to weight ratio of the texture enhancer to the gum
texture modifier of the gel texturizer base ranges from 0.30 to
0.98, or from 0.35 to 0.95, 0.38 to 0.88, 0.40 to 0.85, 0.42 to
0.82, 0.44 to 0.78, 0.45 to 0.75, 0.46 to 0.73, 0.48 to 0.70, 0.45
to 0.68, 0.48 to 0.66, 0.50 to 0.65, 0.52 to 0.64, 0.53 to 0.63,
0.54 to 0.62, 0.55 to 0.61, 0.56 to 0.60, 0.50 to 0.53, 0.51 to
0.52, 0.50 to 0.51, 0.52 to 0.53, 0.51 to 0.53, or from 0.50 to
0.52. In some embodiments, the weight to weight ratio of the
texture enhancer to the gum texture modifier of the gel texturizer
base ranges from 0.35 to 0.75. In some embodiments, the weight to
weight ratio of the texture enhancer to the gum texture modifier of
the gel texturizer base ranges from 0.45 to 0.65. In some
embodiments, the weight to weight ratio of the texture enhancer to
the gum texture modifier of the gel texturizer base ranges from
0.50 to 0.60.
[0100] The combined weight percent of the texture enhancer and the
gum texture modifier in the gel texturizer base compositions of the
invention must not exceed 13.0% of the total weight of the gel
texturizer base. In some embodiments, the combined weight percent
of the texture enhancer and the gum texture modifier in the gel
texturizer base compositions of the invention ranges from about 3.0
to 13.0% of the total weight of the gel texturizer base. In some
embodiments, the combined weight percent of the texture enhancer
and the gum texture modifier in the gel texturizer base is about
3.5% total weight of the gel texturizer base, or about 4.0%, about
4.5%, about 5.0%, about 5.5%, about 6.0%, about 6.5%, about 7.0%,
about 7.5%, about 8.0%, about 8.5%, about 9.0%, about 9.5%, about
10.0%, about 10.5%, about 11.0%, about 11.5%, about 12.0%, about
12.5%, or about 13.0% of the total weight of the gel texturizer
base. In some embodiments, the combined weight percent of the
texture enhancer and the gum texture modifier in the gel texturizer
base ranges from about 4.0 to 12.5% of the total weight of the gel
texturizer base, or from about 4.5 to 12.4%, or about 5.0 to 12.2%,
about 5.2 to 12.0%, about 5.4 to 11.8%, about 5.6 to 11.6%, about
5.8 to 11.4%, about 6.0 to 11.2%, about 6.2 to 11.0%, about 6.4 to
10.7%, about 6.6 to 10.5%, about 6.8 to 10.2%, about 7.0 to 10.0%,
about 7.2 to 9.8%, about 7.4 to 9.6%, about 7.6 to 9.4%, about 7.8
to 9.2%, about 8.0 to 9.0%, about 6.0 to 12.0%, about 6.4 to 11.8%,
about 6.8 to 11.5%, about 7.0 to 11.0%, about 7.0 to 10.5%, about
7.0 to 10.0%, about 7.5 to 9.5%, about 7.8 to 10.2%, about 8.0 to
10.4%, about 8.0 to 10.5%, about 8.0 to 10.0%, about 8.2 to 9.8%,
about 8.4 to 9.4%, about 8.2 to 8.8%, or from about 8.4 to 8.6% of
the total weight of the gel texturizer base. In some embodiments,
the combined weight percent of the texture enhancer and the gum
texture modifier in the gel texturizer base ranges from about 6.0
to 12.0% of the total weight of the gel texturizer base. In some
embodiments, the combined weight percent of the texture enhancer
and the gum texture modifier in the gel texturizer base ranges from
about 7.0 to 11.0% of the total weight of the gel texturizer base.
In some embodiments, the combined weight percent of the texture
enhancer and the gum texture modifier in the gel texturizer base
ranges from about 7.5 to 10.5% of the total weight of the gel
texturizer base.
[0101] In some embodiments, the gel texturizer base for cosmetic
products comprises the solvent in the amount of about 87.0 to
97.0%, the texture enhancer in the amount of about 1.0 to 6.0%, and
the gum texture modifier in the amount of about 2.0 to 8.0%. In
some embodiments, the gel texturizer base for cosmetic products
comprises the solvent in the amount of about 88.0 to 96.0%, the
texture enhancer in the amount of about 1.5 to 5.5%, and the gum
texture modifier in the amount of about 3.5 to 7.5%. In some
embodiments, the gel texturizer base for cosmetic products
comprises the solvent in the amount of about 89.0 to 94.0%, the
texture enhancer in the amount of about 2.0 to 5.0%, and the gum
texture modifier in the amount of about 4.0 to 6.5%. In some
embodiments, the gel texturizer base for cosmetic products
comprises the solvent in the amount of about 90.0 to 93.0%, the
texture enhancer in the amount of about 2.2 to 4.5%, and the gum
texture modifier in the amount of about 4.5 to 6.0%. In some
embodiments, the gel texturizer base for cosmetic products
comprises the solvent in the amount of about 91.0 to 92.0%, the
texture enhancer in the amount of about 2.4 to 4.0%, and the gum
texture modifier in the amount of about 5.0 to 6.0%.
[0102] The gel texturizer bases of the invention can be prepared
using customary methods and equipment known by those of skill in
the art for preparing skin care products and cosmetics. The
components of the gel texturizer base may be physically combined
together in any order to achieve the weight percent compositions
described herein. For example, the plant juice solvent, texture
enhancer, and gum texture modifier can be combined together in any
order as two or more separate distinct phases. Alternatively, the
components of the plant juice solvent, texture enhancer, and gum
texture modifier can be combined together in any order as two or
more separate distinct phases. For example, the following
components of the gel texturizer base may be physically combined
together in any order to achieve the weight percent compositions
described herein: plant juice derived supernatant, coconut alkanes,
coco-caprylate/caprate, bio-silicate fermentation product,
polysaccharide conditioner, clay, polysaccharide thickener,
polysaccharide stabilizer, and glyceryl stearate. In some
embodiments, the plant juice solvent is physically combined with
the gum texture modifier, or components thereof, and the texture
enhancer, or components thereof, in any order to achieve the weight
percent compositions described herein.
[0103] In some embodiments, the components of the gel texturizer
base are physically combined together in any suitable number of
phases to achieve the weight percent compositions. For example,
phase A can be homogenously combined with phase B, wherein phase A
is the plant juice solvent and phase B is a homogeneous mixture of
the texture enhancer and the gum texture modifier. Alternatively,
phase A can be homogenously combined with phase B first before
introducing Phase C, wherein phase A is the plant juice solvent;
phase B is either the gum texture modifier or the texture enhancer;
and phase C is either the gum texture modifier or the texture
enhancer, whichever was not used as phase B. As another
non-limiting example in which phase A and phase B are homogenously
combined first before introducing phase C, phase A is the plant
juice solvent; phase B is one or more components of the gum texture
modifier and the texture enhancer; and phase C is the remaining
components of the gum texture modifier and/or the texture
enhancer.
[0104] The components of the gel texturizer base are homogenously
combined by stirring together the ingredients using sufficient
agitation to achieve relative homogeneity of the hydrolipid
dispersion. Agitation may be achieved, for example, using a
standard propeller mixer, at a slow, moderate or even vigorous
speed. The mixture can be uniformly interconnected, dispersed, and
homogenized using conventional equipment such as a homogenizer,
colloidal mill, line mixer, sonolator, combination mixer, propeller
mixer, Turello mixer, or homogenizer-mixer. In this procedure,
after coarse and fine dispersion in an emulsifier, such as a
homogenizer, colloidal mill, or line mixer, subsequent fine
dispersion may be performed in a high speed propeller mixer.
[0105] The temperature at which the mixtures are homogenized
depends on the order in which each ingredient or phase is combined
with one another. For example, mixtures are typically homogenized
at a temperature of from about 5 to 80.degree. C., about 5 to
75.degree. C., about 5 to 70.degree. C., about 5 to 65.degree. C.,
about 5 to 60.degree. C., about 5 to 55.degree. C., about 5 to
50.degree. C., about 5 to 45.degree. C., about 5 to 40.degree. C.,
about 5 to 35.degree. C., about 5 to 30.degree. C., about 5 to
25.degree. C., about 5 to 20.degree. C., or any ranges or
fractional values between these. In some embodiments, the
components of the plant juice solvent are mixed together at a
temperature of from about 60 to 80.degree. C. to form phase A. In
some embodiments, one or more components of the gum texture
modifier and the texture enhancer are mixed, or homogenized,
together at a temperature of from about 5 to 70.degree. C. to form
phase B. In some embodiments, phase A, comprising the plant juice
solvent, and phase B, comprising the homogenous mixture of one or
more components of the gum texture modifier and the texture
enhancer, are homogenized together at a temperature of from about 5
to 70.degree. C. In some embodiments, phase C, comprising the
remaining components of the gum texture modifier and/or the texture
enhancer, and the homogenized mixture of phases A and B, comprising
the plant juice solvent and one or more components of the gum
texture modifier and the texture enhance, are homogenized together
at a temperature of from about 20 to 50.degree. C. to form the gel
texturizer base of the invention.
[0106] The homogenization time depends on many factors, including
the type of plant juice, the compositions of the texture enhancer
and the gum texture modifier, any additional inactive ingredients
(e.g., fragrance, pigments, opacifying agents, and/or pearlescing
agent), the additional active ingredients (described below), the
order in which each ingredient or phase is combined with one
another, temperature, and type of equipment used to homogenize the
mixture. The mixture is typically homogenized for a period of time
sufficient to completely disperse the ingredients of one phase
together with and throughout the ingredients of another phase to
form a fully dispersed mixture. For example, mixtures are typically
homogenized for a period of from about 5 to 60 min., about 5 to 55
min., about 5 to 50 min., about 5 to 45 min., about 5 to 40 min.,
about 5 to 35 min., about 5 to 30 min., about 5 to 25 min., about 5
to 20 min., about 5 to 15 min., about 5 to 10 min., or any ranges
or fractional values between these.
[0107] In some embodiments, the components of the plant juice
solvent are mixed together for about 5 to 60 min. to form phase A.
In some embodiments, one or more components of the gum texture
modifier and the texture enhancer are mixed, or homogenized,
together for about 5 to 60 min. to form phase B. In some
embodiments, phase A, comprising the plant juice solvent, and phase
B, comprising the homogenous mixture of one or more components of
the gum texture modifier and the texture enhancer, are homogenized
together for about 5 to 25 min. to form a hydrolipid dispersion. In
some embodiments, phase C, comprising the remaining components of
the gum texture modifier and/or the texture enhancer, and the
homogenized mixture of phases A and B, comprising a hydrolipid
dispersion of the plant juice solvent and one or more components of
the gum texture modifier and the texture enhance, are homogenized
together for about 5 to 60 min., thereby forming a fully
interconnected and dispersed three-dimensional network of the
solvent, texture enhancer, and gum texture modifier. In some
embodiments, the mixture is homogenized until the gel texturizer
base has the desired jelly-like consistency, texture, feel and
finish. In some embodiments, the mixture of phases A, B, and C is
homogenized for about 30 minutes before combining the then
homogenized gel base with inactive ingredients or active
ingredients of a cosmetic product composition.
[0108] In some embodiments, the gel texturizer base can be combined
with a fragrance. In some embodiments, the fragrance is a fresh
fragrance or a floral fragrance. In some embodiments, the fragrance
composition will contain natural extracts, such as essential oils.
The fragrance ingredients combined with the gels of the present
invention are the conventional ones known in the art. Suitable
fragrance compounds and compositions can be found in the art
including U.S. Pat. No. 4,145,184, Brain and Cummins, issued Mar.
20, 1979; U.S. Pat. No. 4,209,417, Whyte, issued Jun. 24, 1980;
U.S. Pat. No. 4,515,705, Moeddel, issued May 7, 1985; U.S. Pat. No.
4,152,272, Young, issued May 1, 1979; U.S. Pat. No. 5,378,468
Suffis et al., U.S. Pat. No. 5,081,000 Akimoto et al., issued Jan.
14, 1992; U.S. Pat. No. 4,994,266 Wells, issued Feb. 19, 1991; U.S.
Pat. No. 4,524,018 Yemoto et al., issued Jun. 18, 1985; U.S. Pat.
No. 3,849,326 Jaggers et al., issued Nov. 19, 1974; U.S. Pat. No.
3,779,932 Jaggers et al., issued Dec. 18, 1973; JP 07-179,328
published Jul. 18, 1995; JP 05-230496 published Sep. 7, 1993; WO
96/38528 published Dec. 5, 1996; "WO 96/14827 published May 23,
1996; WO 95/04809 published Feb. 16, 1995; and WO 95/16660
published Jun. 22, 1995; all of said U.S. patents and U.S.
references being incorporated herein by reference. In addition P.
M. Muller, D Lamparsky Perfumes Art, Science, & Technology
Blackie Academic & Professional, (New York, 1994) is included
herein by reference.
[0109] In some embodiments, the fresh fragrance composition is
derived from a blend of pure essential oils produced by and for
Juice Beauty, Inc. located in California, 94901 and at the website
www.juicebeauty.com. In some embodiments, the fresh fragrance
composition used to combine with the gel texturizer base is a blend
of any two or more of the following pure essential oils: basil oil,
bay oil, bergamot oil, black pepper oil, cedarwood oil, chamomile
oil, cinnamon oil, citronella oil, clary sage oil, eucalyptus oil,
fenugreek oil, frankincense oil, geranium oil, ginger oil,
grapefruit oil, jasmine oil, juniper oil, lavender oil, lemon oil,
lemongrass oil, lime oil, mandarin oil, marjoram oil, may chang
oil, melissa oil, myrrh oil, neem oil, neroli oil, orange peel oil,
patchouli oil, peppermint oil, pine oil, rose oil, rosehip oil,
rosemary oil, rosewood oil, sage oil, sandalwood oil, sassafras
oil, spearmint oil, star anise oil, tangerine oil, tarragon oil,
tea tree oil, thyme oil, and ylang-ylang oil. In some embodiments,
the fresh fragrance composition used to combine with the gel
texturizer base is a blend of any two or more of the following pure
essential oils: may chang oil, ylang ylang oil, bergamot oil,
frankincense oil, lavender oil, orange peel oil, juniper oil, and
clary sage oil. In some embodiments, the fresh fragrance
composition used to combine with the gel texturizer base is a blend
of lavender oil, orange peel oil, juniper oil, and clary sage
oil.
[0110] In some embodiments, the floral fragrance is a floral rose
fragrance, comprising the following ingredients: ethyl pelargonate,
ethyl vanillin, heliotropine, phenoxyethanol, Santalex.RTM. T,
ethylene brassylate, isopropyl myristate, terpineol. In some
embodiments, the floral fragrance is a floral jasmine fragrance
comprising the following ingredients: benzyl acetate,
dihydroisojasmonate, cis-hex-3-en-1-ol, isoamyl acetate, ethylene
brassylate, Santalex.RTM. T, isopropyl myristate, undecalactone
gamma. In other embodiments, the floral jasmine fragrance comprises
benzyl acetate, heliotropine, cis-hex-3-en-1-ol, ethylene
brassylate, phenoxyethanol, Santalex.RTM. T, isopropyl myristate,
undecalactone gamma.
[0111] In some embodiments, the fragrance is a unique blend of
essential oils and aromatic extracts (i.e., a combination of a
fresh fragrance and a floral fragrance), which are commercially
available and known in the art. Such fragrances can be purchased
from, for example, Carrubba, Inc. (Milford, Conn.), Givaudan S.A.
(Vernier, Switzerland), International Flavors & Fragrances,
Inc. (New York City, N.Y.), or The Lebermuth Company (South Bend,
Ind.).
V. Active Ingredients
[0112] The gel texturizer bases of the invention can be used in
combination with a variety of active ingredients to form various
cosmetic products. The active ingredients that are combined with
the gel texturizer base will depend on the intended use of the
cosmetic product and its function (e.g., moisturizer, anti-wrinkle,
eye treatment, mask, cleanser, acne treatment, etc.). Non-limiting
examples of cosmetic products that can include the gel texturizer
base of the invention include moisturizing compositions, eye
treatment compositions, and facial mask compositions. Each of these
products contain active ingredients as described below.
Moisturizing Composition
[0113] Moisturizing compositions are a product applied to skin to
increase hydration (occlusivity), comfort, and lubrication. The
moisturizing compositions will contain emollient ingredients. The
CTFA (Cosmetic, Toiletry, and Fragrance Association) defines
"emollient" as a cosmetic ingredient which helps to maintain the
soft smooth, and pliable appearance of the skin; emollients
function by their ability to remain on the skin surface or in
stratum corneum to act as a lubricant, to reduce flaking, and to
improve the skin's appearance. In some embodiments, the
moisturizing compositions control the hydration state of the skin
by forming an occlusive layer on the skin, keeping water inside the
upper stratum corneum layers and consequently acting as
moisturizers. Exemplary active ingredients of the moisturizing
compositions include, but are not limited to, caprylic/capric
triglycerides, cyclomethicone, dimethicone, glycols (e.g., hexylene
glycol, pentylene glycol, butylene glycol, and propylene glycol),
hyaluronic acid, fragrance, polymers, and peptides. In some
embodiments, the moisturizing compositions comprise at least one of
the following active ingredients (i.e., moisturizer active
ingredients): caprylic/capric triglycerides, cyclomethicone,
dimethicone, glycols (e.g., hexylene glycol, pentylene glycol,
butylene glycol, and propylene glycol), hyaluronic acid, fragrance,
polymers, and peptides.
[0114] In some embodiments, the cosmetic product is a moisturizing
composition comprising a combination of the gel texturizer base of
the invention and moisturizer active ingredients, wherein the
amount of the gel texturizer base can range from about 5.0 to about
90.0% of the total weight of the moisturizing composition. In some
embodiments, the amount of the gel texturizer base of a
moisturizing composition cosmetic product can range from about 10.0
to about 88.0% of the total weight of the moisturizing composition,
or from about 20.0 to about 85.0%, or from about 35.0 to about
80.0%, or from about 50.0 to about 78.0% of the total weight of the
moisturizing composition cosmetic product. In some embodiments, the
amount of the gel texturizer base of a moisturizing composition
cosmetic product can range from about 65.0 to about 75.0% of the
total weight of the moisturizing composition.
[0115] In some embodiments, the moisturizing composition comprising
the gel texturizer base of the invention comprises about 40.0 to
about 85.0% solvent, about 0.5 to about 5.0% texture enhancer, and
about 0.5 to about 7.0% gum texture modifier. In some embodiments,
the moisturizing composition comprising the gel texturizer base of
the invention comprises about 50.0 to about 80.0% solvent, about
0.75 to about 4.5% texture enhancer, and about 1.0 to about 6.0%
gum texture modifier. In some embodiments, the moisturizing
composition comprising the gel texturizer base of the invention
comprises about 55.0 to about 78.0% solvent, about 1.0 to about
4.0% texture enhancer, and about 1.5 to about 5.5% gum texture
modifier. In some embodiments, the moisturizing composition
comprising the gel texturizer base of the invention comprises about
60.0 to about 75.0% solvent, about 1.0 to about 3.5% texture
enhancer, and about 1.8 to about 5.2% gum texture modifier. In some
embodiments, the moisturizing composition comprising the gel
texturizer base of the invention comprises about 60.0 to about
70.0% solvent, about 1.2 to 3.0% texture enhancer, and about 2.0 to
about 5.0% gum texture modifier.
Eye Treatment Compositions
[0116] The skin around the eyes is more fragile, more prone to
dryness, and quicker to show age and fatigue. Squinting and
constant movement of the eyes also hasten the appearance of lines
and wrinkles, and fluids collect under the eyes and cause puffiness
and dark circles. When applied to the skin around the eyes, eye
treatment compositions can address some of these issues. Exemplary
active ingredients of the eye treatment compositions include, but
are not limited to, peptides, plant butters (e.g., shea butter,
cocoa butter, liquid fractions of shea butter known under the INCI
name Butyrospermum parkii (shea) butter), silicones (e.g.,
cyclomethicone, dimethicone, and non-volatile polymethylsiloxanes
(PDMS)), PEGs (e.g., polyethylene glycols having an average
molecular weight of from 100 to 300 and from 1000 to 9000), and
other polymers (e.g., polyacrylic acid, hydroxypropyl cellulose,
polyacrylamides, and polyquatemium-51). In some embodiments, the
eye treatment compositions comprise at least one of the active
ingredients (i.e., eye treatment active ingredients): peptides,
plant butters (e.g., shea butter, cocoa butter, liquid fractions of
shea butter known under the INCI name Butyrospermum parkii (shea)
butter), silicones (e.g., cyclomethicone, dimethicone, and
non-volatile polymethylsiloxanes (PDMS)), PEGs (e.g., polyethylene
glycols having an average molecular weight of from 100 to 300 and
from 1000 to 9000), and other polymers (e.g., polyacrylic acid,
hydroxypropyl cellulose, polyacrylamides, and
polyquatemium-51).
[0117] In some embodiments, the cosmetic product is an eye
treatment composition comprising a combination of the gel
texturizer base of the invention and eye treatment active
ingredients, wherein the amount of the gel texturizer base can
range from about 5.0 to about 94.0% of the total weight of the eye
treatment composition. In some embodiments, the amount of the gel
texturizer base of an eye treatment composition cosmetic product
can range from about 15.0 to about 90.0% of the total weight of the
eye treatment composition, or from about 35.0 to about 88.0%, or
from about 50.0 to about 85.0%, or from about 60.0 to about 83.0%
of the total weight of the eye treatment composition cosmetic
product. In some embodiments, the amount of the gel texturizer base
of an eye treatment composition cosmetic product can range from
about 65.0 to about 80.0% of the total weight of the eye treatment
composition.
[0118] In some embodiments, the eye treatment composition
comprising the gel texturizer base of the invention comprises about
40.0 to about 90.0% solvent, about 0.5 to about 5.4% texture
enhancer, and about 0.5 to about 7.5% gum texture modifier. In some
embodiments, the eye treatment composition comprising the gel
texturizer base of the invention comprises about 50.0 to about
85.0% solvent, about 0.75 to about 4.8% texture enhancer, and about
1.0 to about 6.5% gum texture modifier. In some embodiments, the
eye treatment composition comprising the gel texturizer base of the
invention comprises about 55.0 to about 80.0% solvent, about 1.0 to
about 4.4% texture enhancer, and about 1.5 to about 5.8% gum
texture modifier. In other embodiments, the eye treatment
composition comprising the gel texturizer base of the invention
comprises about 60.0 to about 78.0% solvent, about 1.0 to about
3.8% texture enhancer, and about 2.0 to about 5.6% gum texture
modifier. In some embodiments, the eye treatment composition
comprising the gel texturizer base of the invention comprises about
60.0 to about 75.0% solvent, about 1.2 to about 3.5% texture
enhancer, and about 2.2 to about 5.4% gum texture modifier.
Facial Mask Compositions
[0119] A facial mask is intended to treat specific skin concerns,
and typically only used 2-3 times a week as an additional step to
daily skincare regimens. They are referred to as masks because the
formulations are applied to the face in a thin layer and left on
for some period of time. After a period of wearing the facial mask,
in which the duration varies, the masks are removed by using water,
a damp cloth or by peeling the solidified mask off. Purposes for
using the facial mask compositions will vary. Depending on their
ingredients, the facial mask compositions can tighten and tone,
hydrate, cleanse, nourish, draw out impurities, calm and soothe,
rejuvenate the skin, or any combination thereof. Other facial mask
compositions improve specific skin issues such as acne scars or
hyper-pigmentation.
[0120] Exemplary active ingredients of the facial mask compositions
include, but are not limited to, but are not limited to, kaolin,
glycerin, dimethicone, PEGs (e.g., polyethylene glycols having an
average molecular weight of from 100 to 300 and from 1000 to 9000),
polysorbate, plant extracts (e.g., aloe vera, basil, birch,
burdock, comfrey, chamomile (including German chamomile),
calendula, dandelion, echinacea, elderflower, green tea, fennel,
horsetail, hyssop, lady's mantle, lavender, lemon balm, lime
flower, linden, liquorice, marshmallow, nettle, Oregon grape,
plantain, pomegranate, rose, rosemary, sage, St. John's wort,
yarrow and witch hazel), and magnesium silicate. In some
embodiments, the facial mask compositions comprise at least one of
the following active ingredients (i.e., facial mask active
ingredients): kaolin, glycerin, dimethicone, PEGs (e.g.,
polyethylene glycols having an average molecular weight of from 100
to 300 and from 1000 to 9000), polysorbate, plant extracts (e.g.,
aloe vera, basil, birch, burdock, comfrey, chamomile (including
German chamomile), calendula, dandelion, echinacea, elderflower,
green tea, fennel, horsetail, hyssop, lady's mantle, lavender,
lemon balm, lime flower, linden, liquorice, marshmallow, nettle,
Oregon grape, plantain, pomegranate, rose, rosemary, sage, St.
John's wort, yarrow, and witch hazel), and magnesium silicate.
[0121] In some embodiments, the cosmetic product is a facial mask
composition comprising a combination of the gel texturizer base of
the invention and facial mask active ingredients, wherein the
amount of the gel texturizer base can range from about 10.0 to
about 98.0% of the total weight of the facial mask composition. In
some embodiments, the amount of the gel texturizer base of a facial
mask composition cosmetic product can range from about 15.0 to
about 95.0% of the total weight of the facial mask composition, or
from about 25.0 to about 94.0%, or from about 35.0 to about 93.0%,
or from about 45.0 to about 90.0%, or from about 55.0 to about
88.0% of the total weight of the facial mask composition cosmetic
product. In some embodiments, the amount of the gel texturizer base
of a facial mask composition cosmetic product can range from about
60.0 to about 85.0% of the total weight of the facial mask
composition.
[0122] In some embodiments, the facial mask composition comprising
the gel texturizer base of the invention comprises about 45.0 to
about 95.0% solvent, about 0.5 to about 5.8% texture enhancer, and
about 1.0 to about 7.8% gum texture modifier. In some embodiments,
the facial mask composition comprising the gel texturizer base of
the invention comprises about 50.0 to about 90.0% solvent, about
0.75 to about 5.2% texture enhancer, and about 1.5 to about 7.2%
gum texture modifier. In other embodiments, the facial mask
treatment composition comprising the gel texturizer base of the
invention comprises about 55.0 to about 88.0% solvent, about 1.0 to
about 4.8% texture enhancer, and about 1.8 to about 6.2% gum
texture modifier. In other embodiments, the facial mask treatment
composition comprising the gel texturizer base of the invention
comprises about 60.0 to about 85.0% solvent, about 1.2 to about
4.2% texture enhancer, and about 2.2 to about 5.8% gum texture
modifier. In some embodiments, the facial mask composition
comprising the gel texturizer base of the invention comprises about
60.0 to about 80.0% solvent, about 1.5 to about 3.8% texture
enhancer, and about 2.5 to about 5.6% gum texture modifier.
[0123] Other active ingredients typically found in cosmetic
products include plant oils (e.g., wheat germ, grapeseed, sesame,
corn, apricot, castor, avocado, olive, soy bean, sweet almond,
palm, rapeseed, cottonseed, hazelnut, macadamia, jojoba, alfalfa,
poppy, pumpkin, rose, evening primrose, sunflower, and safflower
oils), plant extracts such as rice and linseed extracts, vitamins
such as Vitamin A, C, E, and B5, alpha- and beta-hydroxy acids,
hyaluronic acid, and antioxidants such as tocopherols including
alpha-, beta-, gamma- and delta-tocopherols.
VI. Evaluation of Properties
[0124] The gel texturizer base compositions of the invention will
be tested for preferred physical and chemical properties. In some
embodiments, the gel texturizer base composition is qualitatively
assessed to determine its sensory aspects (e.g., gloss, integrity
of shape, penetration force, compression force, stringiness,
difficulty of spreading, absorbency, and stickiness). The
viscosity, pH, and specific gravity of the gel texturizer base
compositions are also evaluated. In some embodiments, the
properties of the gel texturizer base can be evaluated before
combining with active ingredients, after combining with active
ingredients, or both before and after the addition of active
ingredients. Commercial services, such as, for example, Avomeen
Analytic Services (Ann Arbor, Mich.) and Bioscreen Testing
Services, Inc. (Torrance, Calif.), are available for evaluating the
physical properties and chemical properties of the gel texturizer
base compositions of the invention.
Sensory Evaluation
[0125] The gel texturizer base and cosmetic compositions containing
the gel texturizer base of the instant invention will have the
desired tactile properties and texture attributes. The gel
texturizer base of the invention is pliable and has acceptable flow
(shear-thinning). The gel texturizer base, and compositions
thereof, form a soft, smooth film on the skin's surface. The
texture of a cosmetically acceptable gel texturizer base and
cosmetic product thereof will not have a texture that is waxy,
tacky, heavy, or draggy. Rather, the texture of a cosmetically
acceptable gel texturizer base and cosmetic composition product
thereof will have a jelly-like, smooth, glossy and lightweight
texture, permitting easy application to the skin and feathering.
Sensorial analysis of the gel texturizer base and/or cosmetic
compositions thereof can be performed using a descriptive test and
reference scale to establish the sensory profile of gel texturizer
base and/or cosmetic products thereof, as described in the
publication "Impact of Polymers on Texture Properties of Cosmetic
Emulsions: A Methodological Approach," Gilbert, L. et al, Journal
of Sensory Studies, 2012, 27, pp. 392-402, the teaching of which is
included herein by reference.
[0126] The sensory evaluation methods that can be used to
discriminate and describe the gel texturizer base and/or cosmetic
compositions thereof in terms of texture properties will take into
account rheological principles and physical characteristics of the
gel. For the purpose of the present invention, sensory evaluations
of the gel texturizer bases and/or cosmetic compositions containing
the gel texturizer base focus on the appearance and texture
attributes of said gels and/or cosmetic compositions thereof. The
conditions for the evaluations, such as, for example, environment,
sample handling, and panelist skin conditioning, are to be
carefully controlled by following the Standard Practice for
Descriptive Skinfeel Analysis of Creams and Lotions given by the
ASTM (ASTM Standard E1490 1992, 1997).
[0127] Texture attributes that can be used to evaluate and describe
the gel texturizer base and/or cosmetic composition thereof include
gloss, integrity of shape, penetration force, compression force,
stringiness, difficulty spreading, absorbency, and stickiness. The
sensory evaluation methods can be performed in phases in which
particular texture attributes are analyzed. For example, gloss and
integrity of shape can be evaluated in the appearance phase (i.e.,
phase 1); force of penetration, force of compression, and
stringiness can be evaluated in the pick-up phase (i.e., phase 2);
difficulty spreading and absorbance can be evaluated in the rub-out
phase (i.e., phase 3); and stickiness can be evaluated in the
residual appearance phase (i.e., phase 4). Prior to the evaluation
of each texture attribute of phases 2 and 3, the evaluator will
wash their hands and, in some cases, forearms using a
hydroalcoholic gel cleanser. Gloss, integrity of shape, penetration
force, compression force, difficulty spreading, and stickiness can
be measured using a 0-9 scale with 0.5 increments and particular
verbal descriptors. Stringiness can be measured in millimeters
(e.g., length of filament string) and absorbency can be measured by
the number of rubs necessary for the gel texturizer base and/or
cosmetic composition thereof to penetrate the skin completely. See,
Gilbert, L. et al, Journal of Sensory Studies.
[0128] The appearance phase of the sensory evaluation process can
begin with analyzing the gloss attribute of the gel texturizer base
and/or cosmetic composition containing the gel texturizer base.
Gloss is defined as the amount of reflected light from the gel base
or cosmetic product and is assessed in an evaluation box or booth
in a suitable sensory laboratory. The gloss is evaluated by turning
on a light in the box or booth and holding a 5 mL jar of the
texturizer base or cosmetic composition 30 cm from the light
source. The sample is tilted to catch the reflection, and the
amount of gloss is evaluated. Gloss is evaluated using the 0-9
scale, with 0 indicating "matte" and 9 indicating "glossy." In some
embodiments, the gel texturizer base composition of the instant
invention will have a glossy appearance, with a sensory attribute
score ranging from 6 to 9. Next, the integrity of shape of the gel
texturizer base or cosmetic product is evaluated by dispensing
about 5 g of the sample in a gentle spiral shape in a weight dish.
Integrity of shape is defined as the degree to which the gel
texturizer base or cosmetic product composition holds its given
shape. During deposit and up to 10 seconds after, the sample's
shape of evolution is evaluated, followed by assessing the
integrity of shape: a score of 0 indicates that the deposit
flattens and a score of 9 indicates that the deposit retains its
shape (Gilbert, L. et al, Journal of Sensory Studies). In some
embodiments, the gel texturizer base composition of the instant
invention will retain its spiral shape up to 10 seconds after
dispensing, with an integrity of shape sensory attribute score
ranging from 6 to 9.
[0129] The pick-up phase of the sensory evaluation process involves
evaluating the penetration force of the gel texturizer base and/or
cosmetic composition containing the gel texturizer base.
Penetration force is defined as the force required to penetrate
forefinger into the gel base or cosmetic composition thereof. After
washing hands with a hydroalcoholic gel, penetration force is
analyzed by first placing a forefinger above the 5 mL jar
containing the texturizer base or cosmetic composition, then, with
closed eyes, plunging the forefinger slowly into the jar until the
forefinger touches the bottom of the jar. The penetration force is
evaluated using the 0-9 scale, with 0 indicating "soft" and 9
indicating "hard." In some embodiments, the gel texturizer base or
cosmetic composition containing the gel texturizer base of the
instant invention will have a moderately soft to slightly hard or
firm penetration force, with a sensory attribute score ranging from
1 to 6. In other words, a jar containing the gel texturizer base
and/or cosmetic composition thereof can be fully penetrated using a
forefinger with a relatively soft force to slightly hard or firm
force, while offering some resistance.
[0130] The next attribute to be assessed in the pick-up phase of
the sensory evaluation process is compression force. Compression
force is defined as the force required to fully compress the gel
base and/or cosmetic composition thereof between thumb and
forefinger. Compression force is analyzed by dispensing about 5 g
of the sample on the tip of the thumb of washed hands, followed by
compressing the dispensed sample slowly between the thumb and
forefinger one time while keeping eyes closed. The compression
force is evaluated using the 0-9 scale, with 0 indicating "soft"
and 9 indicating "hard." In some embodiments, the gel texturizer
base or cosmetic composition containing the gel texturizer base of
the instant invention will have a moderately soft compression
force, with a sensory attribute score ranging from 1 to 5. In other
words, the gel base and/or cosmetic composition containing the gel
base can be fully compressed between the thumb and forefinger using
a soft force, while offering some resistance.
[0131] The final attribute to be assessed in the pick-up phase of
the sensory evaluation process is stringiness. Stringiness is
defined as the degree to which the gel texturizer base and/or
cosmetic product thereof strings. About 5 g of the sample is
dispensed on the tip of the thumb of washed hands. The thumb is
placed horizontally at eye level, with a ruler placed vertically
behind the thumb with the 0 mark at thumb level. The sample is
compressed between the thumb and forefinger 10 times at a rate of 2
compressions per second. The maximum length of filament obtained in
millimeters is the stringiness evaluation (Gilbert, L. et al,
Journal of Sensory Studies). In some embodiments, the gel
texturizer base or cosmetic product thereof, as described herein,
will have low stringiness, with filament lengths ranging from 1 mm
to 25 mm.
[0132] The rub-out phase of the sensory evaluation process can
begin with an analysis of the difficulty of spreading the gel
texturizer base and/or cosmetic composition containing the gel
texturizer base. Difficulty of spreading is defined as the force
required to move the product over the skin. After washing hands and
forearms with a hydroalcoholic gel, a skin pen is used to make two
lines on the inner surface of the forearm at 6 and 12 cm from the
cook of the elbow. Then, about 5 g of the sample is dispensed on
the first line 6 cm from the crook of the elbow, which is then
spread from to the second line on the forearm (i.e., the line 12 cm
from the crook of the elbow) using a finger-tipped push and
adapting the force of the push necessary for the sample to reach
the second line. Difficulty of spreading is evaluated using the 0-9
scale, with 0 indicating "soft" and 9 indicating "hard." In some
embodiments, the gel texturizer base or the cosmetic composition
thereof will require a low or soft force to move it across the
skin, with a difficulty of spreading sensory attribute score
ranging from 0 to 2. Absorbency is then evaluated, which is defined
as the amount of time it takes for a product on the skin surface to
completely lose its wetness and a high resistance to continue is
perceived. After complete absorption, no more product is perceived
on the skin surface. After washing hands and forearms with a
hydroalcoholic gel, absorbency evaluations begin by making a 5 cm
circle using a skin pen on the inner surface of the forearm at 6 cm
from the crook of the elbow. About 5 g of sample is dispensed in
the center of the circle, and the entire amount of the sample is
spread within the circle in a circular motion at a rate of one and
a half strokes per second using the forefinger. The spreading is
ceased once the sample is completely absorbed into the skin (i.e.,
high slip resistance is perceived). Absorbency corresponds to the
number of circles necessary to reach the cease point (Gilbert, L.
et al, Journal of Sensory Studies). In some embodiments, the gel
texturizer base and/or cosmetic composition thereof will be highly
absorbent, requiring no more than 8 circles for complete
absorption.
[0133] The residual appearance phase of the sensory evaluation
process involves analyzing the stickiness of the gel texturizer
base and/or cosmetic composition containing the gel texturizer
base. Stickiness is defined as the degree to which the hand's edge
adheres to the surface of the application site of the skin.
Stickiness is evaluated immediately after evaluating the
absorbency. The edge of the evaluator's hand will be strongly
pressed over the application site of the absorbed sample, then
slowly removed from the forearm. This is performed 3 times to
determine stickiness. Stickiness is evaluated using the 0-9 scale,
with 0 indicating "slightly" and 9 indicating "very" (Gilbert, L.
et al, Journal of Sensory Studies). In some embodiments, the gel
texturizer base and/or cosmetic composition thereof will be
minimally sticky, with a stickiness sensory attribute score ranging
from 0 to 3.
Viscosity
[0134] The gel texturizer bases of this invention are intended as a
principle excipient of a variety of different low viscosity
cosmetic products. In general, the viscosity of a material is a
measure of its resistance to gradual deformation by shear stress or
tensile stress. For liquids or gels, it corresponds to the informal
concept of "thickness," for example, honey has a much higher
viscosity than water. Viscosity is more commonly expressed,
particularly in American Society for Testing Materials (ASTM)
standards, as centipoise (cP). Centipoise is equal to the SI
multiple millipascal seconds (mPas). For example, water at
20.degree. C. has a viscosity of 1.002 mPas=1.002 cP.
[0135] Viscometers are used to measure the viscosity of a fluid or
gel material under defined flow conditions and at given shear
rates. They measure the drag caused by the interaction between the
fluid and the object surface. The viscometer rotates a sensing tool
in a material and measures the torque needed to overcome the
viscous resistance to the induced movement, by driving the immersed
tool (i.e., the spindle), through a beryllium copper spring. The
degree to which the spring is wound is proportional to the
viscosity of the fluid. For a material of given viscosity, the
resistance will be greater as the spindle size and/or rotational
speed increase. Viscosities of the gel texturizer base and/or
cosmetic compositions containing the gel texturizer base can be
determined using a conventional viscometer. For example, Brookfield
Viscometers are the most common viscometers used in the cosmetic
products and beauty industry to measure viscosity.
[0136] In some embodiments, the viscosity of the gel texturizer
base is between about 5,000 and 500,000 cP. In some embodiments,
the viscosity of the gel texturizer base is between about 5,000 and
450,000 cP, about 6,000 and 400,000 cP, about 7,000 and 350,000 cP,
about 8,000 and 300,000 cP, about 9,000 and 250,000 cP, about
10,000 and 200,000 cP, about 11,000 and 150,000 cP, about 12,000
and 100,000 cP, about 14,000 and 95,000 cP, about 15,000 and 90,000
cP, about 16,000 and 85,000 cP, about 18,000 and 80,000 cP, about
20,000 and 75,000 cP, about 22,000 and 70,000 cP, about 24,000 and
65,000 cP, about 25,000 and 60,000 cP, about 26,000 and 55,000 cP,
about 28,000 and 50,000 cP, about 30,000 and 45,000 cP, about
26,000 and 36,000 cP, about 28,000 and 35,000 cP, about 30,000 and
34,000 cP, about 32,000 and 35,000 cP, about 33,000 and 35,000 cP,
or between about 33,500 and 34,500 cP. In some embodiments, the
viscosity of the gel texturizer base is between about 10,000 and
100,000 cP. In some embodiments, the viscosity of the gel
texturizer base is between about 12,000 and 90,000 cP. In some
embodiments, the viscosity of the gel texturizer base is between
about 15,000 and 85,000 cP. In some embodiments, the viscosity of
the gel texturizer base is between about 20,000 and 75,000 cP. In
some embodiments, the viscosity of the gel texturizer base is
between about 25,000 and 50,000 cP.
[0137] In some embodiments, the viscosity of a cosmetic composition
containing the gel texturizer base (i.e., moisturizing composition,
eye treatment composition, and facial mask composition) is between
about 1,000 and 800,000 cP. In some embodiments, the viscosity of a
cosmetic composition containing the gel texturizer base is between
about 5,000 and 750,000 cP, about 15,000 and 750,000 cP, about
25,00 and 700,000 cP, about 30,000 and 700,000 cP, about 40,000 and
650,000 cP, about 50,000 and 650,000 cP, about 60,000 and 600,000
cP, about 80,000 and 550,000 cP, or between about 100,000 and
500,000 cP. In some embodiments, the viscosity of a cosmetic
composition containing the gel texturizer base is between about
150,000 and 750,000 cP. In some embodiments, the viscosity of a
moisturizing composition containing the gel texturizer base is
between about 180,000 and 600,000 cP. In some embodiments, the
viscosity of a moisturizing composition containing the gel
texturizer base is between about 200,000 and 500,000 cP. In some
embodiments, the viscosity of a moisturizing composition containing
the gel texturizer base is between about 230,000 and 450,000 cP. In
some embodiments, the viscosity of an eye treatment composition
containing the gel texturizer base is between about 200,000 and
650,000 cP. In some embodiments, the viscosity of a facial mask
composition containing the gel texturizer base is between about
200,000 and 700,000 cP.
pH
[0138] The gel texturizer bases of this invention and the cosmetic
compositions containing such gel texturizer bases will have a pH
that is compatible with the optimal environment of the skin
surface. The pH will also impart stability to and maintain the
shelf life of the gel texturizer base and cosmetic compositions
thereof. pH is by definition the negative log of the hydrogen ion
concentration in solution (i.e., pH=pKa+log[A.sup.-][HA]) as set
forth as set forth in the Henderson-Hasselbalch equation defining
the relationship between pH and pKa. [A.sup.-] is the molar
concentration of the salt (dissociated species) and HA is the
concentration of the undissociated acid. When the concentrations of
the salt and acid are equal, the pH of the system is equal to the
pKa of the acid. The pKa is a dissociation constant determined by
the strength of an acid or base. As used herein, pH refers to a
measured pH value of the gel texturizer base and/or cosmetic
compositions containing the gel texturizer base, and not to a
calculated value requiring what may be complex determination of
activities and measurement of very low concentrations. pH is
generally measured using a digital pH meter or potentiometer
apparatus.
[0139] The pH of the gel texturizer bases of this invention and the
cosmetic compositions thereof will be in a range that is considered
acceptable for avoiding the risk of irritation upon application to
the skin. In other words, the pH of the gel texturizer bases and
cosmetic compositions thereof will not be damaging to the skin,
particularly the stratum corneum (SC), which is the top of the
epidermis. The SC is a cornified layer of tightly packed flattened
cells that acts as an outer skin covering resistant to physical
damage and to prevent water loss from underlying layers. The
underlying layers of the epidermis contain hydrolase enzymes and
lipids that that make up the protective barrier layer and assist
normal skin in regulating natural water loss in the SC. The
constant renewal of the epidermal surface plays an important role
in preventing moisture loss from the body and maintaining epidermal
permeability barrier homeostasis (see, U.S. Patent Application
Publication US 2005/0281853).
[0140] The skin epidermis generally exhibits a mild acidity with a
pH of about 4.0 to about 6.4, with pH 5.0 appearing to be optimal
for maintaining the lipid barrier (see, Mauro, T. Arch. Dermatol.
Res. 1998, 290(4): 215-222; Katsuhiko Deguchi et al. Journal of
Society of Cosmetic Chemists of Japan, Vol. 15, No. 2, p. 121-127,
1981). Most cosmetic products have a pH 6.5 to 8.0 in order to
maintain stability and a shelf life up to at least two years.
However, cosmetic products having a pH at around neutral or basic
do not promote rebuilding of the skin's protective barrier, because
the enzymes required for the rebuilding process have low activity
at near neutral pH and only function well at a lower pH. On the
other hand, acidic cosmetic products (e.g., pH 4.0 and below) will
often cause burning or irritation to the skin and will typically
have a shorter shelf life (see, U.S. Patent Application Publication
US 2005/0281853). Therefore, the gel texturizer bases of the
instant invention and cosmetic compositions thereof, are stable
acidic cosmetic formulations that do not cause damage to the
skin.
[0141] In some embodiments, the pH of the gel texturizer base is
between about 1.0 and about 6.5. In some embodiments, the pH of the
gel texturizer base is about 1.2, or about 1.4, about 1.6, about
1.8, about 2.0, about 2.2, about 2.4, about 2.6, about 2.8, about
3.0, about 3.2, about 3.4, about 3.6, about 3.8, about 4.0, about
4.2, about 4.4, about 4.6, about 4.8, about 5.0, about 5.2, about
5.4, about 5.6, about 5.8, about 6.0, about 6.2, or about 6.4. In
some embodiments, the pH of the gel texturizer base is between
about 1.0 and about 6.0, or about 1.5 and about 5.5, about 2.0 and
about 5.0, about 2.5 and about 4.5, about 3.0 and about 4.0, about
3.0 and about 6.5, about 3.5 and about 6.0, about 4.0 and about
5.5, or between about 4.5 and about 5.5. In some embodiments, the
pH of the gel texturizer base is between about 3.0 and about 6.5.
In some embodiments, the pH of the gel texturizer base is between
about 3.5 and about 6.0. In some embodiments, the pH of the gel
texturizer base is between about 4.0 and about 5.5.
[0142] In some embodiments, the pH of a cosmetic composition
containing the gel texturizer base (i.e., moisturizing composition,
eye treatment composition, and facial mask composition) is between
about 1.5 and about 8.0. In some embodiments, the pH of a cosmetic
composition containing the gel texturizer base is between about 1.5
and about 7.5, about 2.0 and about 7.4, about 2.5 and about 7.2,
about 3.0 and about 7.0, about 3.5 and about 6.9, about 4.0 and
about 6.8, about 4.5 and about 6.7, about 4.8 and about 6.6, or
between about 5.0 and about 6.5. In some embodiments, the pH of a
cosmetic composition containing the gel texturizer base is between
about 3.5 and about 7.5. In some embodiments, the pH of a
moisturizing composition containing the gel texturizer base is
between about 5.0 and about 6.5. In some embodiments, the pH of an
eye treatment composition containing the gel texturizer base is
between about 4.5 and about 6.9. In some embodiments, the pH of a
facial mask composition containing the gel texturizer base is
between about 3.5 and about 6.9.
SpG
[0143] The gel texturizer bases of this invention and the cosmetic
compositions containing such gel texturizer bases have a density
that invokes a light skin feel during and after applying to the
skin surface without imparting a heavy, greasy film. The density
will also be sufficient to maintain the gel matrix dispersion
system. The density of the gel texturizer bases of this invention
and the cosmetic compositions thereof will be expressed as specific
gravity (SpG). SpG is by definition a density ratio of a substance
in comparison to water at 4.degree. C. and 1 atm. In other words,
SpG refers to the density of a given substance divided by the
density of water. The SpG of the gel texturizer bases and cosmetic
compositions thereof can be measured with a suitable density or SpG
determination apparatus. Techniques include: (i) pycnometer/weight
per gallon cup, where the gel formulation at fixed temperatures is
carefully introduced into a fixed-volume vessel of known volume and
mass; and (ii) Electronic density/specific gravity meter, where a
slow stream of the gel formulation at fixed temperatures is
introduced into a flow-through cell and the density is determined
by the oscillating body method. In some embodiments, the specific
gravity is measured using a Cole Parmer specific gravity cup.
[0144] In some embodiments, the SpG at 25.degree. C. of the gel
texturizer base is at least about 0.75, in the range of about 0.75
to about 1.50, for example, about 0.80, 0.81, 0.82, 0.83, 0.84,
0.85, 0.86, 0.87, 0.88, 0.89, 0.90, 0.91, 0.92, 0.93, 0.94, 0.95,
0.96, 0.97, 0.98, 0.99, 1.00, 1.05, 1.10, 1.15, 1.20, 1.25, 1.30,
1.35, 1.40, 1.45, or 1.50 at 25.degree. C. In some embodiments, the
SpG at 25.degree. C. of the gel texturizer base is between about
0.85 and about 1.20, or about 0.90 and about 1.10, or between about
0.95 and about 1.00.
[0145] In some embodiments, the SpG at 25.degree. C. of a cosmetic
composition containing the gel texturizer base (i.e., moisturizing
composition, eye treatment composition, and facial mask
composition) is at least about 0.75, in the range of about 0.75 to
about 1.80, for example, about 0.80, 0.90, 0.95, 1.0, 1.05, 1.10,
1.15, 1.20, 1.25, 1.30, 1.35, 1.40, 1.45, 1.50, 1.55, 1.60, 1.65,
1.70, 1.75 or 1.80 at 25 C. In some embodiments, the SpG at
25.degree. C. of a cosmetic composition containing the gel
texturizer base is between about 0.80 and about 1.60. In some
embodiments, the SpG at 25.degree. C. of a moisturizing composition
containing the gel texturizer base is between about 0.99 and 1.10.
In some embodiments, the SpG at 25.degree. C. of an eye treatment
composition containing the gel texturizer base is between about
0.79 and 1.20. In some embodiments, the SpG at 25.degree. C. of a
facial mask composition containing the gel texturizer base is
between about 0.89 and 1.50.
[0146] All publications and patent applications cited in this
specification are herein incorporated by reference as if each
individual publication or patent application were specifically and
individually indicated to be incorporated by reference.
[0147] Although the foregoing invention has been described in some
detail by way of illustration and example for purposes of clarity
of understanding, it will be readily apparent to those of ordinary
skill in the art in light of the teachings of this invention that
certain changes and modifications may be made thereto without
departing from the spirit or scope of the appended claims.
VII. Examples
[0148] The following examples are provided by way of illustration
only and not by way of limitation. Those of skill will readily
recognize a variety of noncritical parameters which could be
changed or modified to yield essentially similar results.
Example 1. Synthesis of the Gel Texturizer Base
[0149] Gel texturizer bases of this invention were prepared by
first obtaining organic aloe, apple, and grape juices for use as
the solvent. The organic aloe, apple, and grape juices were
purchased from the commercial sources as shown in Table 1 and
prepared as described herein. The prepared organic aloe, apple, and
grape juices shown in Table 1 were added to a main beaker and mixed
until uniform at 70.degree. C., forming phase A. Next, the coconut
alkanes and coco-caprylate/caprate mixture of the texture enhancer
(Table 2) and all the components of the gum texture modifier (Table
3; bentonite clay, xanthan gum, carrageenan, and glyceryl stearate
SE) were mixed in a side beaker until uniform, forming phase B.
Phase B was added directly to the main beaker containing phase A,
vortex mixing using a high-speed propeller mixer at high speed for
at least 15 minutes. The batch was cooled to 45.degree. C. Phase C
comprising the remaining components of the texture enhancer (Table
2; bamboo leaf ferment and biosaccharide gum) was added to the main
beaker containing the homogenous mixture of phases A and B, and
mixed until a homogenous mixture was formed. The mixing was reduced
to low speed while the temperature of the gel texturizer base
mixture was cooled to room temperature (i.e., between 20 and
25.degree. C.).
TABLE-US-00001 TABLE 1 Solvent Ingredient Source Amount* Organic
aloe plant juice Aloecorp, Inc. (Tacoma, WA) 50.0-60.0% pH: 3-5
APC: <100 CFU/g Carb.: about 11.3% Organic apple juice Local or
national commercial 18.0-24.0% pH: 3.6 source, such as, for
example, APC: <100 CFU/g Northwest Naturals, LLC Carb.: about
11.2% (Bothell, WA) Organic grape juice Local or national
commercial 10.0-18.0% pH: 4-5 source, such as, for example, APC:
<100 CFU/g Old Orchard Brands, LLC Carb.: about 17.4% (Sparta,
MI) *The amount of each component is percentage of the component
measured in weight per the total weight of the gel texturizer
base
TABLE-US-00002 TABLE 2 Texture enhancer Ingredient Source Amount*
VEGELIGHT .RTM. 1214 LC Grant Industries, Inc. (1.5-4.5%) (Elmwood
Park, NJ) Coconut alkanes 1.0-4.0% Coco-caprylate/caprate 0.01-1.0%
Lactobacillus/Arundinaria Local or national 0.005-0.50% gigantea
commercial source, such as, leaf ferment filtrate for example,
Active Concepts, LLC (Lincolnton, NC) Biosaccharide gum-1 Solabia
Group (Pantin, 0.005-0.50% France) *The amount of each component is
percentage of the component measured in weight per the total weight
of the gel texturizer base
TABLE-US-00003 TABLE 3 Gum texture modifier Ingredient Source
Amount* VANATURAL .RTM. Vanderbilt Minerals, LLC 1.5-4.5% Bentonite
Clay (Norwalk, CT) Xanthan gum, FCC Spectrum Chemical Mfg. Corp.
0.50-2.5% (New Brunswick, NJ) OLIGOGELINE .TM. PF SEPPIC (Paris,
France) 0.01-1.2% (carrageenan) Cutina .RTM. GMS SE BASF Care
Solutions LLC 0.50-2.5% (glyceryl stearate SE) (Florham Park, NJ)
*The amount of each component is percentage of the component
measured in weight per the total weight of the gel texturizer
base
[0150] The gel texturizer base had the desired jelly-like
consistency, stability, texture, feel and finish. The gel
texturizer base was semi-transparent/opaque and off-white in color,
with favorable spreadability characteristics (i.e., easily
spreadable and glided across the skin surface). The gel texturizer
base absorbed quickly into the skin without a sticky after-feel.
The texture was smooth, glossy, and silky to the touch. The skin
appeared brighter and having a reflectance, rather than dry and/or
sticky.
Example 2. Gel Texturizer Base Formulation Ingredient
Development
[0151] The following example demonstrates the development process
of a cosmetic composition containing a gel texturizer base, in
which the gel texturizer base ingredients that imparted the most
desirable aesthetics and texture attributes upon the cosmetic
composition were identified. Table 4 (below) shows the ingredient
compositions for eight different gel texturizer base formulations
within a cosmetic product, which were prepared as described in
Example 1, followed by the addition of inactive and active
ingredients of the cosmetic product composition and subsequent
mixing. Each cosmetic composition containing the gel texturizer
base formulation of Table 4 was qualitatively assessed to determine
its sensory aspects (e.g., gloss, integrity of shape, compression
force, stringiness, difficulty of spreading, absorbency, and
stickiness). The results of the sensory analysis for each of the
eight cosmetic compositions containing the gel texturizer base
formulations are included in Table 4.
TABLE-US-00004 TABLE 4 Ingredient development: Sensory attributes
of cosmetic compositions containing gel texturizer bases Exp.
Solvent TE.sup.a GTM.sup.b Results* 1 aloe bamboo ferment Xanthan
gum Gloss - glossy (9/9) apple biosaccharide gum Integrity of Shape
- retains grape shape (8/9) Compression Force - very soft (2/9)
Stringiness - not very stringy to very stringy (20-50 mm long)
Difficulty Spreading - easy to spread (1/9) Absorbency - does not
absorb well, 10-20+ circles Stickiness - very sticky (9/9) 2 aloe
bamboo ferment cellulose gum Gloss - glossy (9/9) apple
biosaccharide gum carrageenan Integrity of Shape - does not grape
Ceratonia siliqua retain shape (2/9) gum Compression Force - almost
sucrose liquid, viscosity dropped over time (1/9) Stringiness - (20
mm) Difficulty Spreading - easy to spread (1/9) Absorbency -
absorbs after 8 circles Stickiness - sticky (8/9) Notes: Lumpy
texture, tacky and sticky dry down 3 aloe Coconut alkanes Xanthan
gum Gloss - semi glossy (6/9) apple coco-caprylate/caprate
bentonite Integrity of Shape - (7/9) grape bamboo ferment glyceryl
stearate SE Compression Force - soft (3/9) biosaccharide gum
Stringiness - less stringy (15-20 mm) Difficulty Spreading - easy
to spread (1/9) Absorbency - absorbs well, 3-4 circles Stickiness -
stickiness increases after 1 minute (3/9-4/9) Notes: Tightening
effect, pills, sticky 4 aloe Coconut alkanes Bentonite Gloss -
glossy (8/9) apple coco-caprylate/caprate hydroxyethylcellulose
Integrity of Shape - does not grape bamboo ferment glyceryl
stearate SE retain shape (2/9) biosaccharide gum Compression Force
- liquid (0/9) Stringiness - too liquid to perform Difficulty
Spreading - easy to spread (1/9) Absorbency - absorbs well, 3
circles Stickiness - stickiness dissipates (3/9) Notes: Sticky,
separation, low viscosity 5 aloe Coconut alkanes Potato starch
Gloss - eggshell finish (4/9) apple coco-caprylate/caprate modified
Integrity of Shape - retains grape bamboo ferment Bentonite shape
(8/9) biosaccharide gum xanthan gum Compression Force - soft (3/9)
glyceryl stearate SE Stringiness - not very stringy (10 mm)
Difficulty Spreading - spreads well (2/9) Absorbency - fairly
absorbent, 6 circles Stickiness - sticky (5/9) Notes: Good
viscosity, sticky, does not absorb well 6 aloe Coconut alkanes
Bentonite Gloss - glossy (8/9) apple coco-caprylate/caprate potato
starch Integrity of Shape - does not grape bamboo ferment modified
fully retain shape/flattens (4/9) biosaccharide gum xanthan gum
Compression Force - very soft carrageenan (2/9) Stringiness - less
stringy (20 mm) Difficulty Spreading - easy to spread (1/9)
Absorbency - absorbs better, 4 circles Stickiness - sticky (5/9) 7
aloe Coconut alkanes Bentonite Gloss - glossy (8/9) apple
coco-caprylate/caprate hydroxy ethylcellulose Integrity of Shape -
very liquid grape bamboo ferment carrageenan (0/9) biosaccharide
gum glyceryl stearate SE Compression Force - very liquid (0/9)
Stringiness- very stringy (30 mm) Difficulty Spreading - easy to
spread (1/9) Absorbency - moderate to difficult, sometimes soapy, 5
to 10+ circles Stickiness - not too sticky (2/9), then stickiness
increases (4/9) Notes: Soapy application, low viscosity 8 aloe
Coconut alkanes Bentonite Gloss - glossy (9/9) apple
coco-caprylate/caprate xanthan gum Integrity of Shape - retains
grape bamboo ferment carrageenan shape (8/9) biosaccharide gum
glyceryl stearate SE Compression Force - soft, but offers
resistance (4/9) Stringiness - not very stringy (20 mm) Difficulty
Spreading - easy to spread (1/9) Absorbency - absorbs well, 3
circles Stickiness - minimal stickiness (2/9) Notes: Absorbs wells,
not sticky, good viscosity *Final formulation* .sup.aTE = texture
enhancer; .sup.bGTM = gum texture modifier; *"Penetration force"
was not assessed in these texture attribute studies.
[0152] The solvent was the same aloe/apple/grape juice mixture for
formulations 1-8. The ingredients for the texture enhancer and gum
texture modifier were adjusted in each formulation, as shown in
Table 4. While formulations 1 and 2 were glossy in appearance, but
did not absorb well and were too sticky. The ingredients of the
texture enhancer were adjusted by adding coconut alkanes and
coco-caprylate to the bamboo ferment and biosaccharide gum for
formulations 3-8, while the gum texture modifier ingredients were
varied for formulations 3-8 so as to identify the desired
ingredient combination. As shown in Table 4, formulation 8
exhibited the best sensorial evaluation results compared the
formulations 1-7, with the bentonite, xanthan gum, carrageenan, and
glyceryl stearate SE selected as the ingredients of the gum texture
modifier. Thus, the gel texturizer base of formula 8 was the final
formulation.
Example 3. Optimization of Ingredient Amounts of Final Gel
Texturizer Base Formulation
[0153] The following example demonstrates the development of the
optimized gel texturizer base of the instant invention. In this
example, the ingredients of the final formulation identified in
Example 2 (i.e., formula 8) were the same for each of the
formulations shown below in Table 5 (experiments 1-6), but the
amounts for the solvent, texture enhancer, gum texture modifier,
and the ratio of texture enhancer to gum texture modifier were
varied. Each of the gel texturizer base formulations of Table 5
were prepared according to the methods described in Example 1, and
then qualitatively assessed to determine the sensory aspects for
each formulation (e.g., gloss, integrity of shape, penetration
force compression force, stringiness, difficulty of spreading,
absorbency, and stickiness). The sensory analysis results for each
of the six gel texturizer base formulations are included in Table
6. This is the procedure that was used to establish the amounts of
the solvent, texture enhancer, gum texture modifier, and ratios
thereof for the optimized gel texturizer base formulation.
TABLE-US-00005 TABLE 5 Amounts of ingredients used in the gel
texturizer base Exp. Solvent, % TE, % GTM, % TE:GTM pH Viscosity,
cP SpG 1 91.5 2.9 5.6 0.52 5.0 34,000 0.99 .+-. 0.01 2 93.0 2.0 5.0
0.40 5.0 30,000 0.99 .+-. 0.01 3 93.0 4.0 3.0 1.33 5.0 water thin
0.99 .+-. 0.01 4 97.0 2.0 1.0 2.00 5.5 1,000 0.99 .+-. 0.01 5 90.0
3.5 6.5 0.54 5.0 28,000 0.99 .+-. 0.01 6 95.0 2.5 2.5 1.00 5.0
15,000 0.99 .+-. 0.01 * The amount of each component is percentage
of the component measured in weight per the total weight of the gel
texturizer base
TABLE-US-00006 TABLE 6 Establishing criticality: Sensory attributes
of gel texturizer bases Exp. Solvent, % TE, % GTM, % TE:GTM Results
1 91.5 2.9 5.6 0.52 Gloss - glossy (9/9) Integrity of Shape -
retains shape (9/9) Penetration Force - moderately soft (5/9)
Compression Force - very soft (2/9) Stringiness - not stringy (1 mm
long) Difficulty Spreading - easy to spread (1/9) Absorbency -
absorbs well, 4 circles Stickiness - absent (0/9) 2 93.0 2.0 5.0
0.40 Gloss - semi glossy (2/9) Integrity of Shape - striations, but
holds shape (8/9) Penetration Force - (3/9) Compression Force -
(1/9) Stringiness - (0 mm) Difficulty Spreading - easy to spread
(1/9) Absorbency - absorbs after 8 circles Stickiness - sticky
(2/9) 3 93.0 4.0 3.0 1.33 Gloss - eggshell gloss (6/9) Integrity of
Shape - does not hold shape (0/9) Penetration Force - (0/9)
Compression Force - very liquid (0/9) Stringiness - too liquid to
perform Difficulty Spreading - easy to spread (5/9) Absorbency -
doesn't absorb well, sits on skin, 14-20 circles Stickiness - (3/9)
Notes: separation, low viscosity 4 97.0 2.0 1.0 2.00 Gloss -
eggshell gloss (8/9) Integrity of Shape - does not hold shape (2/9)
Penetration Force - (1/9) Compression Force - liquid (0/9)
Stringiness - 12 mm Difficulty Spreading - easy to spread (1/9)
Absorbency - doesn't absorb well, sits on skin, 14-20 circles
Stickiness - fairly sticky (3/9) 5 90.0 3.5 6.5 0.54 Gloss - semi
gloss - (6/9) Integrity of Shape - (7/9) Penetration Force - (3/9)
Compression Force - soft (3/9) Stringiness - not very stringy (4
mm) Difficulty Spreading - spreads well (2/9) Absorbency - absorbs
fairly well, 6 to 7 circles Stickiness - minimal stickiness (2/9) 6
95.0 2.5 2.5 1.00 Gloss - eggshell finish glossy (8/9) Integrity of
Shape - does not fully retain shape (4/9) Penetration Force - soft
(3/9) Compression Force - very soft (2/9) Stringiness - not stringy
(2 mm) Difficulty Spreading - easy to spread (1/9) Absorbency -
absorbs moderately well, 8-10 circles Stickiness - sticky (5/9)
Notes: Sticky dry down, pilled
[0154] As shown in Table 6, the results of the sensory analysis
indicate that the amounts of solvent, texture enhancer, and gum
texture modifier, and the ratio of texture enhancer to gum texture
modifier for gel texturizer base formulation #1 was the optimized
formulation, while formulations #2 and #5 had acceptable sensory
results. This study highlights the importance of the amount of each
component has on the final formula, and, more significantly, the
impact the ratio of the texture enhancer to gum texture modifier
has on the sensory attributes for the gel texturizer bases
(TE:GTM=0.35 to 0.75).
Example 4. Comparative Study of Natural GTB and Synthetic GTB
[0155] The following example demonstrates the sensorial advantages
of the non-petroleum based gel texturizer base of the instant
invention as compared to a gel texturizer base containing synthetic
petroleum based ingredients. Commercially available gel texturizer
compositions, or components thereof, typically contain ingredients
such as, for example, petrolatum, mineral oils, silicones, alcohol,
polyacrylamide, water, silica, triethoxycaprylylsilane,
polyethylene glycols, polyacrylic acid, sodium acrylates/C10-30
alkyl acrylate crosspolymer, aluminums, microcrystalline wax,
and/or liquid paraffin. The ingredients of the synthetic gel
texturizer base for this comparative study are shown in Table 7
below. The synthetic gel texturizer base contains the same juice
solvent and texture enhancer of the gel texturizer base of the
instant invention, but the gum texture modifier is synthetic and
contains petroleum-derived ingredients: 45-70% polyacrylamide,
20-30% C13-14 isoparaffin, and 7% laureth-7 (SEPIGEL.TM. 305,
SEPPIC, Fairfield, N.J.). The ingredients and amounts thereof for
the all-natural gel texturizer base are those described in Examples
1 and 3 (the optimized formulation).
[0156] The natural gel texturizer base formulation of Table 7 was
prepared as discussed in Example 1. The synthetic gel texturizer
base formulation of Table 7 was prepared by adding the synthetic
gum texture modifier to the solvent, and mixing at moderate
intensity until completely homogenized before mixing in the texture
enhancer using a high-speed propeller mixer until arriving at a
homogenous mixture. The natural and synthetic gel texturizer bases
were qualitatively assessed to determine the sensory aspects (e.g.,
gloss, integrity of shape, penetration force compression force,
stringiness, difficulty of spreading, absorbency, and stickiness).
The sensory analysis results for the natural and synthetic gel
texturizer base formulations are shown in Table 7.
TABLE-US-00007 TABLE 7 Natural GTB vs. synthetic petroleum based
GTB test GTB Solvent TE GTM Results Natural 91.5% 2.9% 5.6% Gloss -
glossy (9/9) Integrity of Shape - retains shape (9/9) Penetration
Force - moderately soft (5/9) Compression Force - very soft (2/9)
Stringiness - not stringy (1 mm long) Difficulty Spreading - easy
to spread (1/9) Absorbency - absorbs well, 4 circles Stickiness -
absent (0/9) Synthetic 91.5% 2.9% 5.6% Gloss - glossy (9/9)
Synthetic Integrity of Shape - retains shape (9/9) Alternate
Penetration Force - moderately soft (5/9) Compression Force - very
soft (3/9) Stringiness - not stringy (1 mm) Difficulty Spreading -
easy to spread (1/9) Absorbency - absorbs well, 4 circles
Stickiness - absent (0/9)
[0157] As shown in Table 7, the sensorial attributes of the
all-natural gel texturizer base of the instant invention met the
sensorial attributes of the gel texturizer base containing a
synthetic gum texture modifier (Table 7).
* * * * *
References