U.S. patent application number 16/618045 was filed with the patent office on 2020-03-26 for mascara composition containing a tetrahydroxypropyl ethylenediamine ester.
The applicant listed for this patent is LVMH RECHERCHE. Invention is credited to Yohann BICHON, Karl PAYS.
Application Number | 20200093723 16/618045 |
Document ID | / |
Family ID | 61187554 |
Filed Date | 2020-03-26 |
![](/patent/app/20200093723/US20200093723A1-20200326-D00001.png)
United States Patent
Application |
20200093723 |
Kind Code |
A1 |
PAYS; Karl ; et al. |
March 26, 2020 |
MASCARA COMPOSITION CONTAINING A TETRAHYDROXYPROPYL ETHYLENEDIAMINE
ESTER
Abstract
The subject of the invention is a wax-in-water emulsion
containing at least one fatty acid ester of
tetramethylpropylethylenediamine, which is intended to replace
triethanolamine, known to decompose into nitrosamines when the
preserved emulsion is packaged in a thermoplastic material.
Moreover, this emulsion has the advantage of gaining shade depth
and fluidity, especially in products rich in waxes.
Inventors: |
PAYS; Karl; (Saint Maurice,
FR) ; BICHON; Yohann; (Maisons-Alfort, FR) |
|
Applicant: |
Name |
City |
State |
Country |
Type |
LVMH RECHERCHE |
Saint Jean de Braye |
|
FR |
|
|
Family ID: |
61187554 |
Appl. No.: |
16/618045 |
Filed: |
December 19, 2018 |
PCT Filed: |
December 19, 2018 |
PCT NO: |
PCT/FR2018/053429 |
371 Date: |
November 27, 2019 |
Current U.S.
Class: |
1/1 |
Current CPC
Class: |
A61K 8/922 20130101;
A61K 8/06 20130101; A61K 8/8111 20130101; A61K 8/361 20130101; A61K
8/925 20130101; A61Q 1/10 20130101; A61K 8/41 20130101; A61K 8/92
20130101; A61K 8/375 20130101 |
International
Class: |
A61K 8/41 20060101
A61K008/41; A61K 8/06 20060101 A61K008/06; A61K 8/36 20060101
A61K008/36; A61K 8/92 20060101 A61K008/92; A61Q 1/10 20060101
A61Q001/10 |
Foreign Application Data
Date |
Code |
Application Number |
Dec 21, 2017 |
FR |
1762856 |
Claims
1. A cosmetic composition for caring for or making up the eyelashes
or the eyebrows, comprising waxes in emulsion in an aqueous phase
and at least one ester obtained by reacting a linear and saturated
fatty acid comprising from 16 to 20 carbon atoms, and
tetrahydroxypropyl ethylenediamine, the mole ratio between the
fatty acid and the amine being between 0.9 and 5, the fatty acid
representing from 2.0 to 8.0% by weight and the amine representing
from 0.1 to 8.0% by weight, relative to the weight of the
composition.
2. The composition as claimed in claim 1, characterized in that the
fatty acid is palmitic acid, stearic acid or behenic acid.
3. The composition as claimed in claim 1, characterized in that it
comprises the mixture of an ester of stearic acid and of
tetrahydroxypropyl ethylenediamine, and an ester of palmitic acid
and of tetrahydroxypropyl ethylenediamine, the two esters
preferably being in equal weight amounts.
4. The composition as claimed in claim 1, characterized in that the
waxes represent from 10 to 35% by weight.
5. The composition as claimed in claim 1, characterized in that the
mixture of at least one wax, the melting point of which is greater
than or equal to 70.degree. C., and of at least one wax, the
melting point of which is less than 70.degree. C., one of the waxes
being an alkane wax and the other being a polar wax.
6. The composition as claimed in claim 1, characterized in that its
viscosity is between 140 000 mPas and 210 000 mPas.
7. The composition as claimed in claim 1, characterized in that it
comprises at least one nonionic surfactant, the HLB of which is
less than 8, such as glyceryl stearate or the compound with the
INCI name Steareth-2.
8. The composition as claimed in claim 1, characterized in that it
comprises at least one nonionic surfactant having an HLB greater
than 8, such as the compound with the INCI name Steareth-20.
9. The composition as claimed in claim 1, characterized in that it
contains between 40 and 55% by weight of water.
10. A process for making up the eyelashes or the eyebrows which
consists in applying to the eyelashes or the eyebrows a composition
as claimed in claim 1.
Description
[0001] The present application relates to the field of making up or
caring for the eyelashes, in particular to the field of cream
mascaras and relates more specifically to a cosmetic composition
that can be applied to keratin fibers.
[0002] The invention relates more specifically to a mascara
containing a high amount of waxes emulsified in an aqueous phase
with a fatty acid ester of tetrahydroxypropyl ethylenediamine
(THPE).
PRIOR ART
[0003] Wax-in-water mascaras containing triethanolamine (TEA)
esters such as triethanolamine stearate are recognized for their
soft, creamy and smooth application quality. Triethanolamine esters
are formed during the process of preparing the mascara by reaction
of a fatty acid or a mixture of fatty acids with
triethanolamine.
[0004] However, TEA leads to a high risk of formation of
nitrosamines during the storage and use of the mascara preserved in
a packaging. TEA can in fact react with the components of the
packaging to release nitrosamines such as NDELA
(N-nitrosodiethanolamine), so that its use in numerous products is
regulated. Cosmetic products, for example, must have an NDELA
content of less than 10 ppb in order to adhere to the regulations
in the main European countries.
[0005] Several proposals to partially or totally replace TEA with
other hydroxylated amines so as to form fatty acid esters have been
developed, but the mascaras obtained have drawbacks.
[0006] This is the case in particular with wax-in-water mascaras
containing aminomethyl propanediol (AMPD) esters which are less
creamy and drier on application when TEA is completely replaced
with AMPD. Such formulas are for example described in document EP 3
228 304.
[0007] Other amines, such as tromethamine, have also been
evaluated, but the tests in which TEA is replaced with these amines
have not made it possible to totally remove it from the formulas
while at the same time retaining a satisfactory makeup result.
[0008] The need to have cream mascaras in wax-in-water emulsion
containing fatty acid esters which are not capable of releasing
nitrosamines during their lifetime, and which have a smooth texture
on application, thus persists.
[0009] More specifically, a mascara is sought which is devoid of
triethanolamine esters, which have application qualities at least
equivalent to those of the mascaras containing said triethanolamine
esters, and which do not suffer from the disadvantages of those
that have been developed by triethanolamine replacement.
[0010] The inventors have found, surprisingly, that fatty acid
esters of tetrahydroxypropyl ethylenediamine formulated in
wax-in-water emulsions make it possible to obtain smooth and creamy
products which are pleasant to use without the risk of nitrosamine
release.
[0011] The fatty acid esters of tetrahydroxypropyl ethylenediamine
can totally replace the triethanolamine esters in the existing
architectures while at the same time preserving the same
properties, or even improving some of them.
[0012] It has in particular been discovered that the fatty acid
esters of tetrahydroxypropyl ethylenediamine make it possible to
provide new mascara textures, that are original by virtue of their
sensoriality, their application qualities and their makeup
results.
[0013] The texture can be more fluid, which makes the application
slide better and more pleasant. Although the emulsion is more
fluid, the charging of the eyelashes remains equivalent, which is
very surprising.
[0014] The formula can also be more adherent, which improves the
persistence of the product on the eyelashes over time.
[0015] Finally, the composition makes it possible to obtain deeper
shades, in particular blacks that are more intense.
[0016] Tetrahydroxypropyl ethylenediamine has already been
incorporated into cosmetic composition at low concentration in
order to perform the function of pH adjustment. However, in these
compositions, tetrahydroxypropyl ethylenediamine cannot form the
necessary significant amounts of esters in the mascaras in emulsion
in order to stabilize the waxes in an aqueous phase.
DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION
[0017] A subject of the invention is thus a cosmetic composition
for caring for or making up the eyelashes or the eyebrows,
comprising waxes in emulsion in an aqueous phase and at least one
ester obtained by reacting a linear and saturated fatty acid
comprising from 16 to 20 carbon atoms, and tetrahydroxypropyl
ethylenediamine, the fatty acid representing from 1.0 to 10.0% by
weight and the amine representing from 0.1 to 8.0% by weight, and
the mole ratio between the fatty acid and the amine being between
0.9 and 5.
[0018] The fatty acid may represent from 1.0 to 10% by weight,
preferably from 2.0 to 8.0% by weight, more preferentially from 2.5
to 5.0% by weight, and even more preferentially from 4.0 to 6.0% by
weight, relative to the weight of the composition.
[0019] The amine may represent from 0.1 to 8.0% by weight,
preferably from 1.0 to 8.0% by weight or else from 1.0 to 6.0% by
weight, more preferentially from 3.0 to 8.0% by weight, even more
preferably from 3.0 to 7.0% by weight, even more preferentially
from 3.0 to 6.0% by weight, and even more preferentially from 3.0
to 4.5% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition.
[0020] The mole ratio between the linear and saturated fatty acid
and the tetrahydroxypropyl ethylenediamine is preferably between
0.9 and 4.0, preferably between 1.0 and 3.0, and more preferably
between 1.1 and 2.0. The fatty acid is preferably used in excess
such that it contributes to the structuring of the fatty phase.
[0021] In the present description, the percentages by weight are
expressed relative to the weight of the emulsion unless otherwise
mentioned.
[0022] The composition preferably comprises less than 1% by weight
of a compound or of a mixture of compounds chosen from a
triethanolamine ester, an aminomethyl propanediol ester, and a
tromethamine ester, which are capable of harming the performance
qualities of the mascara.
[0023] The invention also describes a cosmetic composition for
caring for or making up the eyelashes or the eyebrows in the form
of a wax-in-water emulsion comprising an amount of compounds
bearing an amine function capable of breaking down into
nitrosamines in an amount of less than 10 ppb, characterized in
that it comprises an ester of a linear and saturated fatty acid
having from 16 to 20 carbon atoms and of tetrahydroxypropyl
ethylenediamine, said ester being in an amount sufficient to obtain
a viscosity, the value of which is at least 20% less than the
viscosity of an identical composition comprising a fatty acid ester
of an amine chosen from triethanolamine, tromethamine and
aminopropanediol.
[0024] The composition is advantageously devoid of esters of a
linear and saturated fatty acid with an amine chosen from
triethanolamine, aminopropanediol and tromethamine.
[0025] The linear and saturated fatty acid may be stearic acid,
palmitic acid or behenic acid. According to one embodiment, a
mixture of stearic acid and palmitic acid, for example in a weight
ratio of between 80/20 and 20/80, and advantageously in the weight
ratio 50/50, is used. One particular embodiment comprises the
equal-weight mixture of stearic acid and palmitic acid.
[0026] The IUPAC nomenclature of tetrahydroxypropyl ethylenediamine
is N,N,N',N'-tetrakis(2-hydroxypropyl)ethylenediamine and the INCI
name is Tetrahydroxypropyl Ethylenediamine. It is sold in
particular under the brands Neutrol.RTM. TE, Lutropur.RTM. Q75 from
BASF, and Adeka Carpol.RTM. MD100 from Adeka.
[0027] The amount of the fatty acid ester of tetrahydroxypropyl
ethylenediamine is preferably sufficient to obtain a percentage
decrease in the viscosity of the mascara which is greater than a
value chosen from the group consisting of 10%, 15%, 20%, 25%, 30%,
35% and 40%, relative to a mascara of identical composition wherein
the tetrahydroxypropyl ethylenediamine ingredient used to produce
the mascara is replaced with triethanolamine.
[0028] The composition according to the invention has a fluid
texture: its viscosity is preferably less than 250 000 mPas, for
example between 150 000 mPas and 230 000 mPas, preferably between
140 000 mPas and 210 000 mPas. The viscosity of the composition can
be measured at 25.degree. C. using a Rheomat.RTM. 180 (the company
LAMY) equipped with an MS-R1, MS-R2, MS-R3, MS-R4 or MS-R5 spindle
chosen as a function of the consistency of the composition,
rotating at a rotation speed of 200 rpm. The measurement is taken
after 10 min of rotation.
[0029] The fatty acid ester of THPE performs the function of an
anionic surfactant with an HLB greater than 8. In the present
invention, the HLB values are the Griffin values at 25.degree.
C.
[0030] At least one nonionic surfactant, the HLB of which is less
than 8, can optionally be combined with said ester, in particular
when the amount of waxes in the composition is greater than 20% by
weight. This surfactant may be chosen from the group consisting of:
[0031] monosaccharide esters and ethers; [0032] esters of fatty
acids, in particular C.sub.8-C.sub.24, and preferably
C.sub.16-C.sub.22 fatty acids, and of a polyol, in particular of
glycerol or of sorbitol, preferably of glycerol, such as glyceryl
stearate; [0033] oxyalkylenated alcohols comprising less than 10
oxyalkylene units, better still less than 5 oxyalkylene units, in
particular oxyethylene and/or oxypropylene units.
[0034] An oxyethylenated alcohol comprising less than 5 oxyalkylene
units may be the compound with the INCI name Steareth-2.
[0035] The composition may also contain a mixture of surfactants
comprising the fatty acid ester of THPE, at least one nonionic
surfactant, the HLB of which is less than 8 as described above, and
at least one nonionic surfactant, the HLB of which is greater than
8. This combination is particularly advantageous when the wax
content in the composition is greater than 30% by weight.
[0036] Said surfactant may be chosen from: [0037] fatty alcohols
comprising from 8 to 24 carbon atoms (such as stearyl alcohol)
which comprise 20 oxyethylene units (with the INCI name
Steareth-20, the compound with the INCI name Ceteareth-30 and the
compound having the INCI name Pareth-7), [0038] PEG-40
monostearate, [0039] fatty acid esters comprising 30 oxyethylene
units, such as polyoxyethylenated glyceryl stearate comprising 30
oxyethylene units, polyoxyethylenated glyceryl oleate comprising 30
oxyethylene units, polyoxyethylenated glyceryl cocoate comprising
30 oxyethylene units, polyoxyethylenated glyceryl isostearate
comprising 30 oxyethylene units, polyoxyethylenated glyceryl
laurate comprising 30 oxyethylene units, and [0040]
polyoxyethylenated sorbitan esters, such as polysorbate 60.
[0041] The composition may contain an anionic surfactant having an
HLB value greater than or equal to 8, such as alkyl phosphates and
alkyl sulfates. In one particular embodiment of the invention, the
composition is devoid of anionic surfactant.
[0042] The surfactants preferentially used in composition according
to the invention are chosen for example from oxyethylenated and/or
oxypropylenated ethers, fatty acid esters of polyethylene glycol,
polyethylene glycol/polypropylene glycol polycondensates, fatty
acid esters of glycerol, such as glyceryl stearate, fatty acid
esters of sorbitol, fatty acid esters of sorbitan, sucrose esters
and sucrose ethers.
[0043] According to one particular embodiment, the composition
contains a high amount of wax(es), preferably between 15 and 25% by
weight. These particular compositions advantageously make it
possible to deposit a great deal of product from the first pass of
the brush on the eyelashes, in order to better coat the eyelashes,
to provide volume that is immediately noticeable by the user, and
to increase the persistence of the makeup over time.
[0044] However, the wax-in-water emulsions with a high wax content
of the prior art can lack fluidity, so that the amount of product
deposited on the eyelashes becomes too great and the coating of the
eyelashes is less uniform.
[0045] The introduction of an ester of linear fatty acids and of
tetrahydroxypropyl ethylenediamine into wax-in-water emulsions
containing large amounts of solid compounds, such as waxes, is thus
particularly advantageous since it makes it possible to counteract
the increase in consistency introduced by these compounds by
reducing the viscosity very significantly. In this type of
architecture, the composition of the invention thus entirely
advantageously makes it possible to propose cream mascaras which
provide immediate volume, a lengthening and a persistence over time
with high performance qualities, after a smooth and uniform
application of the product.
[0046] Use may be made of any wax known by those skilled in the art
of cosmetics. The wax may for example be chosen from: [0047] alkane
waxes, also referred to as apolar, chosen from waxes resulting from
oil distillation, such as microcrystalline waxes and certain
paraffin waxes; synthetic waxes obtained by polymerization of
methylene, of ethylene or of propylene, such as polymethylene wax,
polyethylene wax, polypropylene wax, ethylene/propylene copolymer
wax and ethylene/hexene copolymer wax; Fischer Tropsch waxes;
ozokerite wax; and ceresin obtained by refining ozokerite, [0048]
silicone waxes, and [0049] waxes which are neither silicone waxes
nor alkane waxes, also referred to as polar, such as for example
beeswax, rice bran wax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, ouricurry
wax, Japan wax, berry wax, sumac wax, montan wax, esparto wax, cork
fiber wax, sugarcane wax, orange wax, lemon wax, laurel wax, waxes
obtained by hydrogenation of animal or plant oils having linear or
branched, C.sub.8-C.sub.32 fatty chains, such as jojoba oil,
sunflower oil, castor oil, coconut oil, lanolin oil, olive oil
esterified with stearyl alcohol, castor oil esterified with cetyl
alcohol.
[0050] According to one embodiment of the invention, the waxes
represent from 10 to 35% by weight, preferably from 15% to 35% by
weight, more preferably from 18% to 28% by weight, relative to the
weight of the composition.
[0051] In one particular embodiment, the composition contains a
mixture of apolar wax and polar wax.
[0052] In another embodiment, the composition contains 10 to 20% by
weight of a wax, the melting point of which is greater than or
equal to 70.degree. C. The melting point may be measured by any
method known to those skilled in the art. For the purposes of the
present invention, the term "melting temperature" or "melting
point" of a compound is intended to mean in particular one of the
following parameters: the melting point corresponding to the
beginning of the melting of this compound or the temperature
corresponding to the endothermic peak of the compound, it being
possible for these parameters to be measured by D.S.C.
(Differential Scanning Calorimetry) according to standard ISO
11357-3.
[0053] A wax, the melting point of which is greater than or equal
to 70.degree. C., used in the context of the invention may be a
paraffin wax, the melting point of which ranges from 62.degree. C.
to 65.degree. C., a candelilla wax, a beeswax or a carnauba wax,
the melting point of which ranges from 78 to 85.degree. C. The
melting point varies as a function of the process for producing the
wax and of the method used to measure it.
[0054] The composition may contain in particular the mixture of at
least one wax, the melting point of which is greater than or equal
to 70.degree. C., and at least one wax, the melting point of which
is less than 70.degree. C., one of the waxes being an apolar wax
and the other being a polar wax.
[0055] The composition may contain at least one polymer which
performs the function of a texturing, film-forming or gelling
agent. The polymer may in particular be intended to increase the
coating of the eyelashes, the lengthening of the eyelashes and/or
the curving thereof.
[0056] The amount of polymer can range from 2 to 20%, preferably
from 3 to 10% by weight relative to the weight of the
composition.
[0057] Among the polymers that can be envisioned are polybutene,
ethylcellulose and vinylpyrrolidone (VP) copolymers such as
VP/eicosene or VP/hexadecene, hydrogenated polydecene, nonvolatile
silicone oils, in particular phenyl trimethicones, and mixtures
thereof.
[0058] Among the polymers, mention may also be made of cellulose
polymers such as hydroxyethylcellulose, vinyl polymers such as
polyvinylpyrrolidones, gums arabic, guar gum, xanthan derivatives,
aqueous dispersions of acrylate copolymers, and mixtures
thereof.
[0059] The total amount of polymers and of waxes in the composition
is preferably between 15% and 35% of the composition.
[0060] The mascara composition comprises pigments representing from
5 to 20% by weight, for example from 8 to 15% by weight of the
composition.
[0061] The pigments are preferably chosen from titanium dioxide,
zinc oxides, (black, yellow or red) iron oxides, manganese violet,
ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate and ferric blue, and metal
powders such as aluminum powder or copper powder. Among the organic
pigments, mention may be made of carbon black, D & C pigments,
and lakes. Mention may also be made of reflective pigments and
nacre pigments.
[0062] The liquid phase represents for example from 30% to 60% by
weight, preferably from 40% to 55% by weight, relative to the
weight of the mascara composition.
[0063] The liquid phase may contain water, volatile oils and
polyols such as butylene glycol. The oils may be chosen from
volatile dimethicones, cyclomethicones, isododecane, isohexadecane
or isodecane.
[0064] According to one embodiment of the invention, the liquid
phase represents from 40% to 55% by weight, the waxes represent
from 20% to 25% by weight, and the pigments represent from 8 to 12%
by weight.
[0065] The compositions of the invention may contain, in addition
to the ingredients described above, adjuvants that are customary in
the mascara formulation field, such as hydrophilic or lipophilic
gelling agents, active agents, nonvolatile oils, fatty compounds in
paste form, preserving agents, antioxidants, pH adjusters and
fragrances.
[0066] The nonvolatile oils may be chosen from liquid paraffin,
isotridecyl isononanoate, isostearyl neopentanoate, tridecyl
neopentanoate and cetyl octanoate. Use is preferably made of
nonvolatile oils of plant origin, such as castor oil, argon oil, or
almond oil, which may also serve as an active agent.
[0067] The description of the ingredients which are part of the
composition of the invention can be supplemented from the content
of application FR 2 996 767.
[0068] The invention is illustrated by the following examples.
EXAMPLE 1, COMPARATIVE EXAMPLE 2 AND COMPARATIVE EXAMPLE 3
[0069] Three mascara formulas were prepared using the ingredients
in the proportions indicated in table 1 below.
TABLE-US-00001 TABLE 1 Composition of the mascaras Compar- Compar-
ative ative Example example example Phase Ingredients (INCI name) 1
2 3 A1 WATER qs 100 qs 100 qs 100 A1 PRESERVATIVES 2.90 2.90 2.90
A1 TRIETHANOLAMINE -- 2.00 -- A1 AMINOMETHYL -- -- 1.40 PROPANEDIOL
(AMPD ULTRA PC) A1 TETRAHYDROXYPROPYL 3.90 -- -- ETHYLENEDIAMINE
(NEUTROL TE) A2 HYDROXYETHYLCELLULOSE 0.60 0.60 0.60 A2 ACACIA
SENEGAL GUM 2.00 2.00 2.00 A2 PVP (PVP K30) 0.50 0.50 0.50 B1
STEARIC ACID 2.00 2.00 2.00 B1 PALMITIC ACID 2.00 2.00 2.00 B1
VP/EICOSENE COPOLYMER 2.00 2.00 2.00 (ANTARON V 220 F) B1
POLYBUTENE 2.00 2.00 2.00 (POLYBUTENE M 2000) B1 SYNTHETIC BEESWAX
12.00 12.00 12.00 (KESTER WAX K 82P) B1 GLYCERYL STEARATE 4.00 4.00
4.00 (CUTINA GMS-V) B1 CERA CARNAUBA 4.00 4.00 4.00 B1 PARAFFIN
10.00 10.00 10.00 B2 BLACK IRON OXIDE 10.00 10.00 10.00
[0070] In order to perform a reliable comparison, the total amount
of stearic acid and of palmitic acid was kept constant for the two
tests, and the amount of THPE was adjusted to obtain an equal
THPE/(fatty acids) mole ratio.
Preparation Process
[0071] Prepare the aqueous phase A1, stir using a Staro mixer in a
water bath at 85.degree. C.
[0072] Add the gelling agents of aqueous phase A2 into A1 with
stirring.
[0073] Prepare the fatty phase B1, place in a water bath at
85.degree. C. and with stirring using a Staro mixer.
[0074] Once phase B1 has melted, add the mixture of the pigments
and fillers B2 into B1 with stirring, and disperse for 30 min.
[0075] Emulsify A in B with vigoruosu stirring using a Staro mixer
at 85.degree. C. for 5 min, then remove the water bath.
[0076] Leave to cool to 30.degree. C. while gradually reducing the
stirring.
Observations Under a Microscope
[0077] The compositions of example 1 and of comparative example 2
were observed under a microscope at a magnification of 100. FIG. 1
and FIG. 2 show the images obtained.
[0078] The dispersions of the two compositions are homogenous,
uniform and quite tight; the waxes and the pigments are well
dispersed.
[0079] The THPE ester makes it possible to obtain dispersions that
are as fine as those obtained with the triethanolamine ester.
Measurement of Viscosity and of pH
Method of Measurement
[0080] Each formula was packaged in a 120 mL pill bottle and left
to stand for 24 h in an incubator at a temperature of 25.degree.
C.
[0081] Equipment: Rheolab QC
[0082] Measuring spindle: ST22-2V
[0083] Rotation 50 rpm for 7 min
Results
[0084] The values measured are presented in table 2 below.
[0085] The viscosity of the mascara of the invention is about 150
000 to 160 000 cPs, while that of the mascara containing
triethanolamine stearate is about 200 000 cPs.
TABLE-US-00002 TABLE 2 Physicochemical characterization Comparative
Comparative Example 1 example 2 example 3 VISCOSITY (24 h) CPS 156
900 206 700 181 400 pH (24 h) 8.61 8.45 8.94
Makeup Result
[0086] The results are presented in table 3 below.
TABLE-US-00003 TABLE 3 Makeup and application qualities Comparative
Comparative Example 1 example 2 example 3 CREAMY + ++ - VOLUME ++
++ + EYELASH SUPPLENESS + + - ADHESION +++ ++ - Legend: -
insufficient + medium result ++ very good +++ excellent
[0087] The composition of the invention is more fluid and more
adherent than the prior art controls containing triethanolamine
stearate and palmitate, so that the eyelashes are made up in a
single pass of the brush. The mascara is more pleasant to apply and
the perceived black shade is deeper. The amounts of product
deposited on the eyelashes are equivalent for all the
compositions.
EXAMPLE 4, COMPARATIVE EXAMPLE 5 AND COMPARATIVE EXAMPLE 6
[0088] Three mascara formulas were prepared using the ingredients
in the proportions indicated in table 4 below.
TABLE-US-00004 TABLE 4 Composition of the mascaras Compar- Compar-
ative ative Example example example Phase Ingredients (INCI name) 4
5 6 A1 WATER qs 100 qs 100 qs 100 A1 PRESERVATIVES 1.20 1.20 1.20
A1 TRIETHANOLAMINE -- 2.25 -- A1 AMINOMETHYL -- -- 1.59 PROPANEDIOL
(AMPD ULTRA PC) A1 TETRAHYDROXYPROPYL 4.42 -- -- ETHYLENEDIAMINE
(ADEKA CARPOL MD-100) A2 ACACIA SENEGAL GUM 1.70 1.70 1.70 A2
HYDROXYETHYLCELLULOSE 1.00 1.00 1.00 B1 STEARIC ACID 2.25 2.25 2.25
B1 PALMITIC ACID 2.25 2.25 2.25 B1 PARAFFIN 10.90 10.90 10.90 B1
VP/EICOSENE COPOLYMER 1.90 1.90 1.90 (ANTARON V 220 F) B1 BIS
DIGLYCERYL 2.80 2.80 2.80 POLYACYLADIPATE-2 (SOFTISAN 649 MB) B1
POLYBUTENE 5.60 5.60 5.60 (POLYBUTENE M 2000) B1 CANDELILLA CERA
0.90 0.90 0.90 B1 BEESWAX 6.50 6.50 6.50 B1 CERA CARNAUBA 1.30 1.30
1.30 B2 BLACK IRON OXIDE 8.00 8.00 8.00
[0089] The preparation process is the same as that described in the
previous examples.
Measurement of Viscosity and of DH
Method of Measurement
[0090] It is identical to that described above.
Results
[0091] The values measured are presented in table 5 below.
[0092] The viscosity of the mascara of the invention is about 143
000 cPs, while that of the mascara containing triethanolamine
stearate is about 165 000 cPs.
TABLE-US-00005 TABLE 5 Physicochemical characterization Comparative
Comparative Example 4 example 5 example 6 VISCOSITY (24 h) CPS 143
000 165 000 200 900 pH (24 h) 8.29 7.92 8.59
Makeup Result
[0093] The results are presented in table 6 below.
TABLE-US-00006 TABLE 6 Makeup and application qualities Comparative
Comparative Example 4 example 5 example 6 CREAMY ++ +++ - VOLUME ++
++ + EYELASH SUPPLENESS ++ ++ + ADHESION +++ ++ + Legend:
-insufficient + medium result ++ very good +++ excellent
Nitrosamine Assay
Method of Measurement
[0094] The two formulas are conditioned in a 120 mL pill bottle and
left to stand for 6 months in an incubator at a temperature of
40.degree. C., with the assay carried out according to standard ISO
15819:2014.
Results
[0095] The values measured are presented in table 7 below.
TABLE-US-00007 TABLE 7 Nitrosamine assay Comparative Comparative
Conditions Example 4 example 5 example 6 6 months at 20.degree. C.
<10 ppb 19 ppb 65 ppb 6 months at 40.degree. C. <10 ppb 237
ppb <10 ppb
[0096] The NDLEA content is compliant (that is to say less than 10
ppb at 20.degree. C. and 40.degree. C.) after 6 months of storage
for the formula of the invention, whereas it is greater than 20 ppb
for the comparative formula containing triethanolamine
stearate.
* * * * *