U.S. patent application number 16/466086 was filed with the patent office on 2019-10-03 for petrolatum substitution preparation.
The applicant listed for this patent is AAK AB (PUBL). Invention is credited to Jari ALANDER, Martin JOHANSSON, Staffan NORBERG, Mette SKOVGAARD.
Application Number | 20190298626 16/466086 |
Document ID | / |
Family ID | 62559653 |
Filed Date | 2019-10-03 |
United States Patent
Application |
20190298626 |
Kind Code |
A1 |
ALANDER; Jari ; et
al. |
October 3, 2019 |
PETROLATUM SUBSTITUTION PREPARATION
Abstract
There is provided a petrolatum substitute. The petrolatum
substitute preparation comprises 1-20 wt % of at least one oil
thickening agent, 7-40 wt % of at least one structuring agent,
0.5-10 wt % of at least one phytosterol or ester thereof, and 30-92
wt % of at least one emollient, wherein the preparation has a
melting point of 35.degree. C. or more. The petrolatum substitute
preparation can be used in essentially all applications where
petrolatum is used today. The substitute can be made renewable and
the use of over-exploited natural products is minimized. The
preparation is less irritant and has excellent moisture barrier
properties when applied to human skin. Further it is less energy
consuming to manufacture.
Inventors: |
ALANDER; Jari; (Danderyd,
SE) ; NORBERG; Staffan; (Karlshamn, SE) ;
SKOVGAARD; Mette; (Hallaryd, SE) ; JOHANSSON;
Martin; (Morrum, SE) |
|
Applicant: |
Name |
City |
State |
Country |
Type |
AAK AB (PUBL) |
Malmo |
|
SE |
|
|
Family ID: |
62559653 |
Appl. No.: |
16/466086 |
Filed: |
December 14, 2017 |
PCT Filed: |
December 14, 2017 |
PCT NO: |
PCT/SE2017/051273 |
371 Date: |
June 3, 2019 |
Current U.S.
Class: |
1/1 |
Current CPC
Class: |
A61Q 19/00 20130101;
A61K 8/72 20130101; A61K 8/922 20130101; C10M 2207/281 20130101;
A61K 8/31 20130101; C10M 2205/028 20130101; C10M 2207/022 20130101;
A61K 8/361 20130101; C10M 2207/40 20130101; A61K 2800/48 20130101;
A61K 8/375 20130101; A61K 8/63 20130101; A61K 8/8111 20130101; C10M
2205/18 20130101; C10N 2050/10 20130101; C10M 111/00 20130101; C10M
173/02 20130101; C10M 2205/026 20130101 |
International
Class: |
A61K 8/31 20060101
A61K008/31; A61K 8/36 20060101 A61K008/36; A61K 8/37 20060101
A61K008/37; A61K 8/63 20060101 A61K008/63; A61K 8/81 20060101
A61K008/81; A61Q 19/00 20060101 A61Q019/00; A61K 8/92 20060101
A61K008/92 |
Foreign Application Data
Date |
Code |
Application Number |
Dec 16, 2016 |
SE |
1651664-3 |
Claims
1-56. (canceled)
57. A petrolatum substitute preparation comprising 1-20 wt % of at
least one oil thickening agent, 7-40 wt % of at least one
structuring agent, 0.5-10 wt % of at least one phytosterol or ester
thereof, and 30-92 wt % of at least one emollient, wherein the
preparation has a melting point of 35.degree. C. or more.
58. The preparation according to claim 57, wherein the at least one
oil thickening agent comprises at least one isoprenoid
compound.
59. The preparation according to claim 58, wherein the at least one
isoprenoid fraction is saturated.
60. The preparation according to claim 58, wherein the at least one
isoprenoid fraction is unsaturated.
61. The preparation according to claim 57, wherein the at least one
oil thickening agent comprises at least one vegetable oil.
62. The preparation according to claim 61, wherein the at least one
vegetable oil is dimerized.
63. The preparation according to claim 61, wherein the at least one
vegetable oil is polymerized.
64. The preparation according to claim 57, wherein the at least one
oil thickening agent comprises at least one latex.
65. The preparation according to claim 64, wherein the at least one
latex comprises at least one latex selected from the group
consisting of gutta percha, natural latex and balata.
66. The preparation according to claim 57, wherein the at least one
oil thickening agent comprises at least one hydrocarbon from shea
butter.
67. The preparation according to claim 57, wherein the at least one
oil thickening agent consists of at least one hydrocarbon from shea
butter.
68. The preparation according to claim 57, wherein the at least one
oil thickening agent comprises at least one thickening agent
selected from the group consisting of polyisobutenes and
polydecenes.
69. The preparation according to claim 57, wherein the at least one
structuring agent comprises at least one nonpolar hard
component.
70. The preparation according to claim 57, wherein the at least one
structuring agent consists of at least one nonpolar hard
component.
71. The preparation according to claim 69, wherein the at least one
nonpolar hard component comprises at least one nonpolar hard
component selected from the group consisting of a triglyceride with
a melting point of at least 35.degree. C., a wax ester with a
melting point of at least 35.degree. C., a natural wax with a
melting point of at least 35.degree. C., and a long chain (C20 to
C60) hydrocarbon with a melting point of at least 35.degree. C.
72. The preparation according to claim 69, wherein the at least one
nonpolar hard component comprises at least one nonpolar hard
component selected from the group consisting of a triglyceride with
a melting point of at least 35.degree. C., a wax ester with a
melting point of at least 35.degree. C., a natural wax with a
melting point of at least 35.degree. C., and a long chain (C20 to
C60) natural hydrocarbon with a melting point of at least
35.degree. C.
73. The preparation according to claim 69, wherein the at least one
nonpolar hard component comprises at least one nonpolar hard
component selected from the group consisting of a triglyceride with
a melting point of at least 45.degree. C., a wax ester with a
melting point of at least 45.degree. C., a natural wax with a
melting point of at least 45.degree. C., and a long chain (C20 to
C60) hydrocarbon with a melting point of at least 45.degree. C.
74. The preparation according to claim 69, wherein the at least one
nonpolar hard component comprises at least one nonpolar hard
component selected from the group consisting of a triglyceride with
a melting point of at least 55.degree. C., a wax ester with a
melting point of at least 55.degree. C., a natural wax with a
melting point of at least 55.degree. C., and a long chain (C20 to
C60) hydrocarbon with a melting point of at least 55.degree. C.
75. The preparation according to claim 57, wherein the at least one
structuring agent comprises a semipolar hard component.
76. The preparation according to claim 75, wherein the at least one
semipolar hard component comprises at least one semipolar hard
component selected from the group consisting of a fatty acid with a
melting point of at least 35.degree. C., a fatty alcohol with a
melting point of at least 35.degree. C., mono- and/or diglycerides
of fatty acids with a melting point of at least 35.degree. C.,
fatty acid partial esters of polyglycerol, sorbides, sorbitans,
sorbitol, sucrose, pentaerythritol and methylolpropane,
hydrogenated castor oil or a hydroxyl stearic acid with a melting
point of at least 35.degree. C., and castor oil fatty acids with a
melting point of at least 35.degree. C.
77. The preparation according to claim 57, wherein the at least one
structuring agent comprises at least one structuring agent selected
from the group consisting of a triglyceride, a saturated
triglyceride, a semi-solid triglyceride, a high melting wax, a wax
ester, and a hydrocarbon.
78. The preparation according to claim 57, wherein the at least one
phytosterol or ester thereof comprises at least one phytosterol or
ester selected from a triterpene and a triterpene ester.
79. The preparation according to claim 57, wherein the at least one
phytosterol or ester thereof comprises triterpene esters esterified
with at least one selected phytosterol or ester from the group
consisting of long chain fatty acids (C13-C31), cinnamic acid,
acetic acid, and derivatives of cinnamic acid.
80. The preparation according to claim 79, wherein the derivatives
of cinnamic acid is at least one derivative selected from the group
consisting of ferulic acid, sinapic acid, p-coumaric acid,
3-phenylpropanoic acid, 3-cyclohexylpropanoic acid and caffeic
acid.
81. The preparation according to claim 57, wherein the at least one
phytosterol or ester thereof comprises at least one selected from
lupeol, amyrin, beta-sitosterol, campesterol, stigmasterol,
lanosterol, cholesterol, betulinol, and betulinic acid.
82. The preparation according to claim 57, wherein the at least one
phytosterol or ester thereof comprises at least one phytosterol
ester.
83. The preparation according to claim 57, wherein the at least one
phytosterol or ester thereof consists of at least one phytosterol
ester.
84. The preparation according to claim 57, wherein the at least one
emollient is at least one selected from the group consisting of a
liquid vegetable oil with a melting point of 25.degree. C. or
below, a vegetable butter with a melting point of 35.degree. C. or
below, an at least partly hydrogenated vegetable oil with a melting
point of 35.degree. C. or below, an interesterified vegetable oil
with a melting point of 35.degree. C. or below, an ester with a
melting point of 35.degree. C. or below, a synthetic triglyceride
with a melting point of 35.degree. C. or below, and a synthetic
polyol ester with a melting point of 35.degree. C. or below.
85. The preparation according to claim 84, wherein the vegetable
butter is at least one selected from shea butter, cocoa butter,
mango butter, illipe butter, murumuru butter, cupuacu butter, and
Shorea robusta seed butter.
86. The preparation according to claim 84, wherein the at least one
vegetable butter is hydrogenated.
87. The preparation according to claim 57, wherein the oxidative
stability index at 110.degree. C. determined according to AOCS Cd
12b-92(m) exceeds 40 hours.
88. The preparation according to claim 57, wherein the at least one
oil thickening agent increases the viscosity of the preparation,
but does not increase the viscoelasticity of the preparation.
89. The preparation according to claim 57, wherein the preparation
is viscoelastic.
90. The preparation according to claim 57, wherein the preparation
comprises sorbitan tristearate.
91. The preparation according to claim 57, wherein the preparation
comprises 10-20 wt % of the at least one oil thickening agent.
92. The preparation according to claim 57, wherein the preparation
has a melting point of at least 40.degree. C.
93. The preparation according to claim 57, wherein the preparation
has a melting point of at least 46.degree. C.
94. The preparation according to claim 57, wherein the preparation
is an ingredient in at least one formulation selected from the
group consisting of a cosmetic formulation, a beauty formulation, a
personal care formulation, a skin care formulation, a hair care
formulation, a lip care formulation, a coloured cosmetic
formulation, a sun care formulation, a lotion, an ointment, a
cream, and a soft gel capsule, coating, a conditioner, a lubricant,
a cleaner, a trolley lubricant, a food grade grease, a gear lube
formulation, a pharmaceutical preparation, a car wax, and a
furniture wax.
95. A formulation comprising the preparation according to claim 57,
wherein the formulation is selected from the group consisting of a
cosmetic formulation, a beauty formulation, a personal care
formulation, a skin care formulation, a hair care formulation, a
lip care formulation, a coloured cosmetic formulation, a sun care
formulation, a lotion, an ointment, a cream, and a soft gel
capsule, coating, a conditioner, a lubricant, a cleaner, a trolley
lubricant, a food grade grease, a gear lube formulation, a
pharmaceutical preparation, a car wax, and a furniture wax.
96. The formulation according to claim 95, wherein the amount of
preparation in the formulation is 1-100 wt %.
97. A method of reducing the transepidermal water loss (TEWL) of
skin comprising administering to the skin in need thereof an
effective amount of the preparation according to claim 57.
98. A method of increasing the moisture content in the skin
comprising administering to the skin in need thereof an effective
amount of the preparation according to claim 57.
99. The method according to claim 97, wherein the preparation is
used in a formulation in an amount of 1-100 wt %.
100. A method of manufacturing a preparation according to claim 57,
comprising the steps of mixing the ingredients.
101. The method according to claim 100, wherein the method further
comprises interesterification.
102. The method according to claim 100, wherein the method further
comprises hydrogenation.
103. The method according to claim 100, wherein the method further
comprises deodorization.
104. The method according to claim 103, wherein the deodorization
is carried out before the mixing of the ingredients.
105. The method according to claim 100, wherein the deodorization
is carried out after the mixing of the ingredients.
Description
TECHNICAL FIELD
[0001] The present invention relates to a preparation for the
replacement or substitution of petrolatum as well as the use and
manufacture of the preparation.
BACKGROUND
[0002] Petrolatum is a well-known product with a lot of different
uses within many different areas.
[0003] Petrolatum is well known since a long time ago. For
instance, U.S. Pat. No. 127,568 dated 1872 describes the
manufacture of Vaseline from residuums of petroleum which have not
been vaporized in distillation. The term Vaseline is in U.S. Pat.
No. 127,568 described as a thick oily pasty substance semi-solid in
appearance with a melting point of 30-43.degree. C.
[0004] Beauty and personal care formulations are often emulsions of
an oil phase (emollient) dispersed in an aqueous medium. The choice
of oil phase is important for determining the characteristics of
the formulation, such as skin feel, consistency and stability. The
oil phase may be composed of mineral oils such as paraffin oil or
petrolatum, esters of various types, triglycerides and/or silicone
oils. A review of technologies used as emollients in skin care is
given by Alander (Chemical and Physical Properties of Emollients,
in Treatment of Dry Skin Syndrome, The Art and Science of
Moisturizers, Loden, M & Maibach, HI, Springer-Verlag,
2012).
[0005] Emollients and oils are also used in products intended for
hair care and cleansing applications, such as shampoos,
conditioners and shower gels. In this case the oil is dispersed in
a solution of surfactants, with or without additional stabilizer
and emulsifiers.
[0006] High melting, waxy materials are used in beauty and personal
care applications such as lipsticks, lip-balms, pencils and
foundations to impart consistency and stabilize dispersions of
pigments and minerals.
[0007] The oil phase in the aforementioned applications needs to be
stable, safe to use and compatible with other ingredients used in
the formulation. Mineral oils and synthetic hydrocarbons fulfill
these requirements. However, they are non-renewable and contribute
to higher levels of greenhouse gas emissions (Vag, Marby et al, J
Synth Lubr 19-1, 2002, 39-57). It is therefore of interest to find
substitutes for both liquid, semi-solid and waxy mineral oils used
in the beauty and personal care industry.
[0008] EP 2011483 (Walter Rau Neusser Ol and Fett A G) discloses a
cosmetic or pharmaceutical composition comprising a mixture of a
medium chain triglyceride with a long-chain triglyceride. The
long-chain triglyceride is characterized by having a content of
fatty acids longer than or equal to 20 carbons, which is 10-100 wt
%. The composition should have an iodine value of less than 30 and
preferably less than 2, stating that the composition is essentially
fully saturated. The use of medium chain triglycerides is
undesirable in this type of application, due to several aspects:
short chain triglycerides are less stable against hydrolysis,
releasing fatty acids with undesired flavor profiles and higher
irritation potential. Medium chain triglycerides are shorter than
long-chain triglycerides, i.e. shorter than 20 carbons. The
manufacture of medium chain triglycerides is also complex, using
high temperatures and catalysts that are damaging to the
environment. There is therefore a need for preparations, while
showing petrolatum-like properties, that also are less irritant and
require less energy consuming processes in their manufacture.
Further it is desirable to have a preparation which is more stable
against hydrolysis.
[0009] EP 0661924 (Aarhus Oliefabrik A/S) discloses a preparation
for use as a substitute for petrolatum, comprising an oxidation
resistant glyceride oil and/or a liquid wax, a solid wax, a
structuring fat and (optionally) other functional additives. The
oxidation stable glyceride oil is derived from well-known vegetable
oil sources and can be partially hydrogenated, partially liquid,
fractionated or interesterified. The liquid wax is for example,
jojoba oil. The solid wax is beeswax, candelilla or carnauba wax or
other similar natural waxes. The structuring fat is a hydrogenated
vegetable oil which is solid at room temperature, optionally
interesterified or fractionated. The preparation requires the use
of either a solid wax or a liquid wax, and if the solid fat is
omitted, a liquid wax must be present. Liquid waxes such as jojoba
oil are scarce and expensive. The solid waxes such as candelilla
and carnauba come from natural sources which are diminishing due to
over-exploitation. A preparation which is similar to petrolatum
without the use of the waxes is therefore desirable.
[0010] US 2003/0207971 discloses preparations comprising mixtures
of an oil and a high-melting wax forming a gel that can be used as
an emollient. The oil can be any of a vegetable oil, an animal fat
or a petroleum derived oil. The wax should have an average
molecular weight between 700-3000 Da and a melting point between
37.7.degree. C. to 165.6.degree. C. The wax should be added in
concentrations between 2 to 60% by weight. The wax can further be
selected from any of natural, petrochemical or synthetic waxes. The
gel preparation may contain, in addition to the liquid oil, a
hydrogenated vegetable oil. The proposed preparations are either
based on a petroleum source (ozokerite and other), a petroleum
derived synthetic wax or a natural wax which is derived from a
diminishing or non-renewable source (candelilla wax).
[0011] A preparation that is similar to petrolatum without the use
of petroleum derived waxes or waxes from diminishing sources is
therefore desirable.
SUMMARY
[0012] It is an object of the present invention to obviate at least
some of the disadvantages in the prior art and provide an improved
substitute for petrolatum.
[0013] It has surprisingly been found that mixing preparation of an
oil thickening agent, a structuring forming agent, and a
phytosterol or ester thereof and an emollient, will give
petrolatum-like properties. The preparation can optionally also
contain a high melting wax at low concentration. This preparation
is suitable for use in beauty and personal care applications such
as skin care creams and lotions, body-butters, lip treatments as
well as decorative cosmetics. It is also useful as an ingredient in
hair care applications such as shampoos, rinse-off conditioners as
well as leave-on hair styling products. The preparation can also be
used in shower products as an emollient and
re-lipidising/moisturizing ingredient.
[0014] In general, the present preparation can replace petrolatum
in any application. Petrolatum can be replaced entirely or
partially by the present preparation at least by some of the
embodiments of the preparation described herein.
[0015] In a first aspect there is provided a petrolatum substitute
preparation comprising 1-20 wt % of at least one oil thickening
agent, 7-40 wt % of at least one structuring agent, 0.5-10 wt % of
at least one phytosterol or ester thereof, and 30-92 wt % of at
least one emollient, wherein the preparation has a melting point of
35.degree. C. or more.
[0016] Further aspects and embodiments are defined in the appended
claims, which are specifically incorporated herein by
reference.
[0017] One advantage is that the preparation according to the
invention can be made renewable compared to traditional petrolatum.
It is also an advantage that the use of natural waxes from
over-exploited sources is minimized.
[0018] Further the preparation is less irritant.
[0019] The preparation is more stable to oxidation compared to
other petrolatum substitute preparations known in the art.
[0020] Moreover, the preparation has improved moisture barrier
properties. In an in vitro moisture barrier test, the measured
apparent water evaporation rate is similar to or only slightly
inferior compared to petrolatum. Compositions based on prior art,
comprises only a structure forming agent in oil, and are not as
effective in forming a moisture barrier.
[0021] Another advantage is that the preparation is less energy
requiring to manufacture, in that the manufacturing processes are
done at lower temperatures and in fewer steps compared to
petrolatum.
DETAILED DESCRIPTION
[0022] Before the invention is disclosed and described in detail,
it is to be understood that this invention is not limited to
particular compounds, configurations, method steps, substrates, and
materials disclosed herein as such compounds, configurations,
method steps, substrates, and materials may vary somewhat. It is
also to be understood that the terminology employed herein is used
for the purpose of describing particular embodiments only and is
not intended to be limiting since the scope of the present
invention is limited only by the appended claims and equivalents
thereof.
[0023] It must be noted that, as used in this specification and the
appended claims, the singular forms "a", "an" and "the" include
plural referents unless the context clearly dictates otherwise.
[0024] If nothing else is defined, any terms and scientific
terminology used herein are intended to have the meanings commonly
understood by those of skill in the art to which this invention
pertains.
[0025] The term "about" as used in the description and the claims
denotes certain interval around a value, .+-.10% of the value. Thus
the term about 20 means that the value can be in the interval
18-22.
[0026] Oil as used herein throughout the description and the claims
is any chemical substance which is a viscous liquid at room
temperature and is both hydrophobic and lipophilic, e.g. not
soluble in water but soluble in ether.
[0027] Oxidation resistance as used throughout this specification
and the claims is the ability to withstand oxidation and is
measured as the oxidative stability index at 110.degree. C.
according to AOCS Cd 12b-92(m).
[0028] Melting point as used throughout this specification and the
claims is the endset measured with differential scanning
calorimetry (DSC).
[0029] Iodine value as used throughout this specification and the
claims is measured according to IUPAC 2.205.
[0030] Saponification value as used throughout this specification
and the claims is measured according to IUPAC 2.202.
[0031] Room temperature as used throughout the description and the
claims denotes a temperature of about 20-25.degree. C.
[0032] All percentages are calculated by weight unless otherwise
indicated.
[0033] In a first aspect there is provided a petrolatum substitute
preparation, comprising 1-20 wt % of at least one oil thickening
agent, 7-40 wt % of at least one structuring agent, 0.5-10 wt % of
at least one phytosterol or ester thereof, and 30-92 wt % of at
least one emollient, wherein the preparation has a melting point of
35.degree. C. or more.
[0034] The melting point of 35.degree. C. or more is to ensure some
solids to remain on the skin when applied.
[0035] The preparation comprises at least one oil thickening agent.
In one embodiment the at least one oil thickening agent comprises
at least one isoprenoid or poly-isoprenoid compound. In one
embodiment the at least one isoprenoid fraction is saturated. In an
alternative embodiment the at least one isoprenoid fraction is
unsaturated.
[0036] In one embodiment the at least one oil thickening agent
comprises at least one vegetable oil. In one embodiment the at
least one vegetable oil is dimerized. In one embodiment the at
least one vegetable oil is polymerized. Dimerized and polymerized
vegetable oils are renewable and natural substances that are
effective in increasing the viscosity of the oil.
[0037] In one embodiment the at least one oil thickening agent
comprises at least one latex. In one embodiment the at least one
latex comprises at least one selected from the group consisting of
gutta percha, natural rubber latex and balata. Gutta percha and
balata are latex obtained from specific trees.
[0038] In one embodiment the at least one oil thickening agent
comprises at least one hydrocarbon from shea butter. In one
embodiment the at least one oil thickening agent consists of at
least one hydrocarbon from shea butter. This has the advantage that
it is less prone to cause allergic reactions. The hydrocarbon from
shea butter is free from proteins which are normally found in
natural rubber latex and does not cause allergies or sensitization.
Further it does not comprise any fossile raw materials.
[0039] In one embodiment the at least one oil thickening agent
comprises at least one selected from the group consisting of
polyisobutenes, polydecenes, polyolefins, synthetic polyesters,
hydrophobically modified acrylates, and polyam ides. Synthetically
derived oligomers and polymers offer possibilities to increase
viscosities of the oil phases above the levels reachable with other
alternatives and increase the stickiness of the composition in
order to influence deposition on the skin.
[0040] In one embodiment the oil thickener comprises a mixture of
oil thickeners selected from the above mentioned groups. By mixing
oil thickeners from different groups, the properties of the
composition may further be optimized for different applications, by
influencing, for example, the interaction with the surfaces of skin
and hair. In a preferred embodiment, the oil thickeners are
selected from dimerized vegetable oils and hydrocarbons derived
from shea butter, as this combination is renewable and natural in
contrast to the synthetic alternatives.
[0041] The oil thickening agent is often diluted in an emollient to
ease the handling. The oil thickening agent may be added as 100%
ingredient or in form of a diluted ingredient. When diluted, it may
be diluted in an emollient. Thus the weight percentage of the oil
thickening agent is herein calculated as its weight of only the oil
thickening agent even if it is diluted in an emollient prior to use
and prior to mixing with other ingredients.
[0042] Thus in one embodiment the oil thickening agent comprises a
mixture of any one of the compounds mentioned above as "oil
thickening agent" or being a constituent in the "oil thickening
agent".
[0043] The preparation further comprises at least one structuring
agent. In one embodiment the at least one structuring agent
comprises at least one nonpolar hard component. In one embodiment
the at least one structuring agent consists of at least one
nonpolar hard component. In one embodiment the at least one
nonpolar hard component comprises at least one selected from the
group consisting of a triglyceride with a melting point of at least
35.degree. C., a wax ester with a melting point of at least
35.degree. C., a wax with a melting point of at least 35.degree.
C., and a long chain (C20-C60) hydrocarbon with a melting point of
at least 35.degree. C. Long chain hydrocarbon in this context and
in view of the melting point is defined as a C20-C60. In one
embodiment the hydrocarbon is from a renewable source.
[0044] In one embodiment the at least one structuring agent
comprises a semipolar hard component. In one embodiment the at
least one semipolar hard component comprises at least one selected
from the group consisting of a fatty acid with a melting point of
at least 35.degree. C., a fatty alcohol with a melting point of at
least 35.degree. C., mono- and/or diglycerides of fatty acids with
a melting point of at least 35.degree. C., fatty acid partial
esters of polyglycerol, sorbides, sorbitans, sorbitol, sucrose,
pentaerythritol and methylolpropane, hydrogenated castor oil with a
melting point of at least 35.degree. C., and castor oil fatty acids
with a melting point of at least 35.degree. C.
[0045] In one embodiment the at least one oil thickening agent is a
semi-polar hard component comprising at least one hydroxy stearic
acid. In an alternative embodiment the oil thickening agent is at
least one semi-polar hard component comprising other mono-hydroxyl
fatty acids with a melting point above 35.degree. C., or mixes
thereof.
[0046] In one embodiment the at least one structuring agent
comprises at least one selected from the group consisting of a
triglyceride, a saturated triglyceride, a semi-solid triglyceride,
a high melting wax, a wax ester, and a hydrocarbon.
[0047] In one embodiment the at least one structuring agent
comprises at least one nonpolar hard component and the at least one
nonpolar hard component comprises at least one selected from the
group consisting of a triglyceride with a melting point of at least
45.degree. C., a wax ester with a melting point of at least
45.degree. C., a natural wax with a melting point of at least
45.degree. C., and a long chain (C20 to C60) hydrocarbon with a
melting point of at least 45.degree. C.
[0048] In one embodiment the at least one structuring agent
comprises at least one nonpolar hard component and the at least one
nonpolar hard component comprises at least one selected from the
group consisting of a triglyceride with a melting point of at least
55.degree. C., a wax ester with a melting point of at least
55.degree. C., a natural wax with a melting point of at least
55.degree. C., and a long chain (C20 to C60) hydrocarbon with a
melting point of at least 55.degree. C.
[0049] The preparation further comprises at least one phytosterol
or ester thereof. In one embodiment the at least one phytosterol or
ester thereof comprises at least one selected from a triterpene and
a triterpene ester. In one embodiment the at least one phytosterol
or ester thereof comprises triterpenes esterified with at least one
selected from the group consisting of long chain fatty acids
(C13-C31), cinnamic acid, acetic acid, and derivatives of cinnamic
acid.
[0050] In one embodiment the derivatives of cinnamic acid is at
least one selected from the group consisting of ferulic acid,
sinapic acid, p-coumaric acid, 3-phenylpropanoic acid,
3-cyclohexylpropanoic acid and caffeic acid. In one embodiment the
at least one phytosterol or ester thereof comprises at least one
selected from lupeol and amyrin. In one embodiment the at least one
phytosterol or ester thereof comprises beta-sitosterol,
campesterol, stigmasterol, lanosterol, cholesterol, betulinol, and
betulinic acid. In one embodiment the at least one phytosterol or
ester thereof comprises at least one phytosterol ester. In one
embodiment the at least one phytosterol or ester thereof consists
of at least one phytosterol ester.
[0051] Triterpenes and phytosterols easily form liquid crystals.
The triterpenes, phytosterols and their respective esters mentioned
above contribute to the barrier properties of the composition by
being able to form liquid crystals as well as solid crystals in the
composition, slowing down and blocking the diffusion of water
through the barrier. Thus ingredients forming liquid and solid
crystals contribute to improved barrier properties and are included
in one embodiment.
[0052] The preparation further comprises at least one emollient. In
one embodiment the at least one emollient is at least one selected
from the group consisting of a liquid vegetable oil with a melting
point of 25.degree. C. or below, a vegetable butter with a melting
point of 35.degree. C. or below, an at least partly hydrogenated
vegetable oil with a melting point of 35.degree. C. or below, an
interesterified vegetable oil with a melting point of 35.degree. C.
or below, an ester with a melting point of 35.degree. C. or below,
a synthetic triglyceride with a melting point of 35.degree. C. or
below, and a synthetic polyol ester with a melting point of
35.degree. C. or below. In one embodiment the vegetable butter is
at least one selected from shea butter, cocoa butter, mango butter,
illipe butter, murumuru butter, cupuacu butter and Shorea robusta
seed butter. In one embodiment the at least one vegetable butter is
hydrogenated.
[0053] In one embodiment the oxidative stability index at
110.degree. C. determined according to AOCS Cd 12b-92(m) exceeds 40
hours. It is an advantage of the invention that the preparation is
highly oxidation resistant. As oxidative stability is an important
factor when using an emollient, the choice of ingredients is
important. A refined vegetable oil such as a soy bean oil or rape
seed oil, typically have less than 10 hours @ 110.degree. C. in
oxidative stability index. Using high stability oils such as Lipex
Bassol C increases the oxidative stability to above 40 hours but
there are other oils exceeding 100 hours which can be used as well
according to the invention. In addition, anti-oxidants can be added
to the product to increase oxidative stability. In one embodiment
the preparation comprises at least one anti-oxidant. The invention
makes it possible to select ingredients which are highly oxidation
resistant so that the entire preparation thereby becomes highly
oxidation resistant.
[0054] In one embodiment the at least one oil thickening agent
increases the viscosity of the preparation, but does not increase
the viscoelasticity of the preparation. This means that the
viscosity increases when the oil thickening agent is added, but the
viscoelasticity does not increase when the oil thickening agent is
added.
[0055] In one embodiment the preparation is viscoelastic. The
viscoelasticity typically comes from a component which is not the
oil thickening agent. Examples include but are not limited to
non-hydrocarbon oil and compounds originating from shea.
[0056] In one embodiment the preparation comprises sorbitan
tristearate. This has the advantage of providing a better
appearance and it gives a more translucent preparation. The
improved appearance is an advantage for various surface coatings as
well as for many cosmetic applications.
[0057] In one further embodiment the preparation comprises 1-20 wt
% of the at least one oil thickening agent. In still one further
embodiment the preparation comprises 1-20 wt % of a combination of
oil thickening agents. By mixing oil thickeners from different
groups, the properties of the composition may further be optimized
for different applications, by influencing, for example, the
interaction with the surfaces of skin and hair. In a preferred
embodiment, the oil thickeners are selected from dimerized
vegetable oils and hydrocarbons derived from shea butter, as this
combination is renewable and natural in contrast to the synthetic
alternatives. In one further embodiment the preparation has a
melting point of at least 35.degree. C., 40.degree. C. In another
further embodiment the preparation has a melting point of at least
42.degree. C. In yet another embodiment the preparation has a
melting point of at least 46.degree. C., such as 50.degree. C.,
53.degree. C. or even 54.degree. C., 56.degree. C., 60.degree. C.,
70.degree. C., 76.degree. C. or even 80.degree. C., 90.degree.
C.
[0058] Any combination of the at least one oil thickening agent,
the at least one structuring agent, the at least one phytosterol or
ester thereof, and the at least one emollient as mentioned herein
are encompassed.
[0059] The preparation can be utilized for a lot of different
applications. Since the preparation is intended to replace
petrolatum it can be used in all applications where petrolatum
currently is used. In one embodiment the preparation fully replaces
petrolatum and in an alternative embodiment the preparation
replaces petrolatum partially, such as for 1 wt %, 5 wt %, 10 wt %,
20 wt %, 30 wt %, 40 wt %, 50 wt %, 60 wt %, 70 wt %, 80 wt %, 90
wt %, 95 wt %, 97 wt %, 99 wt % or even for 99,9 wt %. In one
embodiment the preparation is used in an amount of 1-100 wt % in
the final formulation. Use of 100% of the petrolatum substitute
preparation as described herein in the final formulation
corresponds to 100% replacement of petrolatum in the final
formulation, i.e. the petrolatum replacement preparation is
replacing petrolatum to 100%. 100% replacement of petrolatum means
that all petrolatum in the final product is replaced, but the final
product normally also comprises other ingredients so that the total
amount of the preparation in the final product is less than
100%.
[0060] In one embodiment the petrolatum substitute preparation as
described herein is intended for use as an ingredient in at least
one selected from the group consisting of a cosmetic formulation, a
beauty formulation, a personal care formulation, a skin care
formulation, a hair care formulation, a lip care formulation, a
coloured cosmetic formulation, a sun care formulation, a lotion, an
ointment, a cream, and a soft gel capsule, a coating, a
conditioner, a lubricant, a cleaner, a trolley lubricant, a food
grade grease, a gear lube formulation, a pharmaceutical
composition, a car wax, and a furniture wax.
[0061] In a second aspect there is provided the use of the
preparation as described in any embodiments herein as an ingredient
in at least one selected from the group consisting of a cosmetic
formulation, a beauty formulation, a personal care formulation, a
skin care formulation, a hair care formulation, a lip care
formulation, a colored cosmetic formulation, a sun care
formulation, a lotion, an ointment, a cream, and a soft gel
capsule, coating, a conditioner, a lubricant, a cleaner, a trolley
lubricant, a food grade grease, a gear lube formulation, a
pharmaceutical composition, a car wax, and a furniture wax.
[0062] There is further provided the use of the preparation as
described in any of the embodiments above as an ingredient in at
least one product selected from the group consisting of a lotion,
an ointment, a cream, and a soft gel capsule. In one embodiment the
preparation is used in an amount of 1-100 wt % in the final
product. In one embodiment the preparation is used in an amount of
1-99.9 wt % in the final product. In another embodiment the
preparation is used in an amount of 5-20 wt % in the final product.
100wt % of the final product means that the product consists only
of the petrolatum replacement according to the invention, in such
an embodiment pure replacement preparation can replace for instance
pure Vaseline. Often the amount of the preparation according to the
invention constitutes a lower amount in the final product, such as
the mentioned 5-20 wt %.
[0063] In a third aspect there is provided a formulation comprising
the preparation as described in any of the embodiments above,
wherein the formulation is at least one selected from the group
consisting of a cosmetic formulation, a beauty formulation, a
personal care formulation, a skin care formulation, a hair care
formulation, a lip care formulation, a coloured cosmetic
formulation, a sun care formulation, a lotion, an ointment, a
cream, and a soft gel capsule, coating, a conditioner, a lubricant,
a cleaner, a trolley lubricant, a food grade grease, a gear lube
formulation, a pharmaceutical composition, a car wax, and a
furniture wax. In one embodiment the amount of preparation in the
formulation is 1-100 wt %. In one embodiment the formulation is a
barrier forming formulation intended to come into contact with the
skin of a human. It is intended to be applied on the skin of a
human user.
[0064] Often it is desired that the formulation applied to the skin
of a human should be fast spreading and fast absorbing. If such
properties are desired a low viscous and polar ester should be
used. Examples of such esters are Lipex SheaLight, IPP, IPM, MCT.
One such example is given in Example 6.
[0065] There is further provided use of a petrolatum substitute
preparation as described herein in a formulation intended to come
into contact with the skin of a human, in order to reduce the
transepidermal water loss (TEWL). In a further embodiment the
preparation is used in a formulation intended to come in contact
with the skin of a human, in order to increase the moisture level
in the skin, which may also in some preferred embodiments also
reduce the transepidermal water loss (TEWL) in the same embodiment.
In one embodiment the petrolatum substitute preparation is used in
a formulation in an amount of 1- 100 wt %. In one embodiment the
preparation is used in a formulation in an amount of 5-20 wt %. 100
wt % would correspond to pure petrolatum substitute preparation,
which can be used, but most often the petrolatum substitute
preparation constitutes a fraction of the final product, in which
it replaces at least a part of the petrolatum in the final
product.
[0066] In a fourth aspect there is provided a barrier forming
formulation intended to come into contact with the skin of a human,
wherein the barrier forming formulation comprises the petrolatum
substitute preparation as described in any of the embodiments
herein. In one embodiment the preparation is present in the
formulation in an amount of 1- 100 wt %. In one embodiment the
barrier forming formulation comprises the preparation wherein the
preparation comprises a trisaturated triglyceride, a natural
hydrocarbon and an ester. In this particular embodiment the
structuring agent is a trisaturated triglyceride, the oil
thickening agent is a hydrocarbon, such as a natural hydrocarbon,
and the emollient is an ester. The preparation further comprises a
phytosterol or ester thereof. Further examples of barrier forming
formulations comprising the preparation as described in any of the
embodiments herein are disclosed below.
[0067] One example of a barrier forming formulation comprising the
petrolatum substitute preparation is wherein the at least one oil
thickening agent comprises a natural hydrocarbon, the at least one
structuring agent comprises a non-polar hard component, the at
least one phytosterol or ester thereof comprises a triterpene or
ester thereof, and the at least one emollient. The natural
hydrocarbon originating from shea is in one embodiment in the range
of 0.5 to 8%.
[0068] A further embodiment of a barrier forming formulation
comprising the petrolatum substitute preparation is wherein the at
least one oil thickening agent comprises a natural hydrocarbon, the
at least one structuring agent comprises a triglyceride, the at
least one phytosterol or ester thereof comprises a triterpene from
Shea or ester thereof, and the at least one emollient comprises
liquid glycerides from Shea oil. The amount of triterpenes and
ester thereof originating from shea is in one embodiment in the
range of about 0.5-10 wt % of the preparation, or about 0.5-7 wt
%.
[0069] A further embodiment of a barrier forming formulation
comprising the petrolatum substitute preparation is wherein the
least one oil thickening agent comprises a natural hydrocarbon, the
at least one structuring agent comprises a non-polar hard
component, the at least one phytosterol or ester thereof comprises
a triterpene or ester thereof, and the at least one emollient. The
non polar hard components comprise wax esters such as cetearyl
behenate, triglycerides such as fully hydrogenated vegetable oils,
hydrocarbons such as paraffin, waxes such as sun flower wax and
combinations thereof. The amount of structuring agent is in one
embodiment in the interval of about 7-40 wt %, or such as about
7-25 wt %.
[0070] A further embodiment of a barrier forming formulation
comprising the petrolatum substitute preparation is wherein the at
least one oil thickening agent comprises a natural hydrocarbon, the
at least one structuring agent comprises a non-polar hard
component, the at least one phytosterol or ester thereof comprises
a triterpene or ester thereof, and the at least one emollient
comprises a partially hydrogenated Shea butter. The amount of
partially hydrogenated shea butter is in one embodiment in the
interval 5 to 93 wt % of the preparation.
[0071] A further embodiment of a barrier forming formulation
comprising the petrolatum substitute preparation is wherein the
least one oil thickening agent comprises a natural hydrocarbon, the
at least one structuring agent comprises a non-polar hard
component, the at least one phytosterol or ester thereof comprises
a triterpene or ester thereof, and the at least one emollient. The
non polar hard components comprise wax esters such as cetearyl
behenate, triglycerides such as fully hydrogenated vegetable oils,
hydrocarbons such as paraffin, waxes such as sun flower wax and
combinations thereof. The amount of structuring agent (e.g.
non-polar hard component) is in one embodiment in the interval 7-40
wt %, the amount of phytosterols (e.g. triterpenes) and ester
thereof originating from shea is in the range 0.5-10 wt % of the
preparation and the natural hydrocarbon originating from shea (oil
thickening agent) is in the range of 0.5 to 8%. Further embodiments
are wherein the amount of structuring agent is in the interval
10-20 wt %, the amount of phytosterols (e.g. triterpenes) and ester
thereof originating from shea is in the range 2-6 wt % of the
preparation and the natural hydrocarbon originating from shea is in
the range of 2 to 8 wt %. Even further embodiments are wherein the
amount of structuring agent is in the interval 7-15 wt %, the
amount of phytosterols (eg triterpenes) and ester thereof
originating from shea is in the range 2-6 wt % of the preparation
and the natural hydrocarbon originating from shea is in the range
of 2 to 8 wt %.
[0072] A further embodiment of a barrier forming formulation
comprising the petrolatum substitute preparation is wherein the
least one oil thickening agent comprises a natural hydrocarbon, the
at least one structuring agent comprises a non-polar hard
component, the at least one phytosterol or ester thereof comprises
a triterpene or ester thereof, and the at least one emollient. The
non polar hard components comprise wax esters such as cetearyl
behenate, triglycerides such as fully hydrogenated vegetable oils,
hydrocarbons such as paraffin, waxes such as sun flower wax and
combinations thereof. The amount of structuring agent is in one
embodiment in the interval 10-20 wt %. The amount of triterpenes
and ester thereof originating from shea is in one embodiment at
least 2% of the preparation. The natural hydrocarbon originating
from shea is in one embodiment at least 2% of preparation. However,
the amount of phytosterols and natural hydrocarbon are in a range
between 4 to 12%.
[0073] A further embodiment of a barrier forming formulation
comprising the petrolatum substitute preparation is wherein the
least one oil thickening agent comprises a natural hydrocarbon, the
at least one structuring agent comprises a non-polar hard
component, the at least one phytosterol or ester thereof comprises
a triterpene or ester thereof, and the at least one emollient. The
non polar hard components comprise wax esters such as cetearyl
behenate, triglycerides such as fully hydrogenated vegetable oils,
hydrocarbons such as paraffin, waxes such as sun flower wax and
combinations thereof. The amount of structuring agent is in one
embodiment in the interval 7-15 wt %. The amount of triterpenes and
ester thereof originating from shea is in one embodiment at least
2% of the preparation. The natural hydrocarbon originating from
shea is in one embodiment at least 2% of preparation. However, the
amount of phytosterols and natural hydrocarbon are in a range
between 7 to 12%.
[0074] In a fifth aspect there is provided a method of
manufacturing a preparation as described in any of the embodiments
above, comprising the steps of mixing the ingredients, i.e. 1-20 wt
% of at least one oil thickening agent, 7-40 wt % of at least one
structuring agent, 0.5-10 wt % of at least one phytosterol or ester
thereof, and 30-92 wt % of at least one emollient, wherein the
preparation has a melting point of 35.degree. C. or more.
[0075] The method may in further embodiments comprise the steps of
heating the preparation gently during the mixing until all
ingredients have melted. In further embodiments the ingredients are
heated to a temperature in the interval 60-100.degree. C. during
mixing, such as 60.degree. C., 70.degree. C., 80.degree. C.,
90.degree. C., 95.degree. C., 97.degree. C. or even 99.degree. C.
In one embodiment the method further comprises interesterification.
In one embodiment the method further comprises hydrogenation. The
steps may be carried out in various orders. In one embodiment the
method further comprises deodorization. The ingredients are in one
embodiment mixed and then deodorized. In another embodiment the
ingredients are deodorized and then mixed. In yet another
embodiment deodorizing of at least some of the ingredients before
the mixing is combined with deodorizing of the ingredients after
mixing. In one embodiment the deodorization is carried out after
the mixing of the ingredients. In one embodiment the deodorization
is carried out before the mixing of the ingredients. The steps can
be carried out in various orders, for instance as mentioned above
the deodorization step can also be carried out on the ingredients
before the mixing, instead of after the mixing.
EXAMPLES
[0076] Throughout the examples as well as the description and the
claims all percentages are calculated by weight unless otherwise
clearly indicated. [0077] Raw Materials
High Melting Components:
[0078] Akofine R: FH Rapeseed triglyceride oil (FH RSTO) is
characterized by having <2 in iodine value. The fatty acid
profile is stearic acid (40-50%), behenic acid (40-50%), 3-7% of
arachidic fatty acids and below 5% of other.
[0079] FH Vegetable triglyceride oil (FH VTO) is characterized by
having <2 in iodine value and a saponification value of 170-230.
The fatty acid preparation comprises palm itic acid (40-60 wt %)
and stearic acid (40-50 wt %) and below 10 wt % of other fatty
acids.
[0080] Wax ester 1: Cetearyl behenate, CAS 92797-30-3, a C34-C46
long chain ester with a melting point of 56-65.degree. C.
[0081] Wax ester 2: Cetyl stearate, CAS 124487-61-2, a C34 to C40
long chain ester with a melting point of 54-59.degree. C.
Liquid Vegetable Oils
[0082] Lipex Bassol C: The liquid triglyceride oil (VEG oil) is
characterized by having >50 in iodine value and a saponification
value of between 170-230. The amount of unsaturated fatty acids
>35 wt %.
[0083] Lipex 205: The liquid shea butter is characterized by having
>70 in iodine value and a saponification value of about 183. The
amount of unsaturated fatty acids is >65 wt %.
[0084] Lipex SheaLight: The liquid shea butter ester is
characterized by being a blend of ethyl-oleate (45-65 wt %),
ethyl-linolate (5-10 wt %), ethyl stearate (20-30 wt %), ethyl
palmitate (3-7 wt %) and a triterpene ester content of 5-13 wt
%.
Semisolid Vegetable Fats
[0085] Lipex 512 is a partially hydrogenated shea butter with a
melting point of 34.degree. C.
[0086] The partly hydrogenated triglyceride oil (PHTO) is
characterized of having an iodine value of 40-70 and saponification
value of 170-250. The amount of unsaturated fatty acids >35wt %.
The melting point is above 30 to 45.degree. C.
Natural Hydrocarbon Oil (NHO).
[0087] A refined Shea butter was melted to 60.degree. C. and then
cooled to 40.degree. C. 1 kg of shea butter was blended with 4
liters of acetone at 40.degree. C. The blend was cooled to
10.degree. C. so the natural hydrocarbon precipitated without oil
precipitation. The blend was filtered to separate the oil from the
natural hydrocarbon. The filter cake weighed 42 grams of most of it
was natural hydrocarbons with some traces of high melting fats and
acetone. 150 grams of Lipex 205 (a refined shea butter oil) was
added to the filter cake and then the acetone was removed at
60.degree. C., 100 mbar pressure. The resulting mixture was refined
and deodorised according to standard procedures. The unsaponifiable
matter and capillary viscosity at 50.degree. C. were determined to
21 wt % and 170 cSt, respectively.
[0088] Summary of ingoing materials (in wt %):
TABLE-US-00001 Phytosterols Structuring agents Triterpene Other Oil
thickening agent Semi-polar esters and phytosterol/ Other oil Non
polar hard hard triterpene phytosterol Hydrocarbons thickening
Emollients component component alcohols esters from shea agent
Emollients Akofine R .TM. 100 0 0 0 0 0 0 Cetearyl behenate 100 0 0
0 0 0 0 Sunflower wax 100 0 0 0 0 0 0 Sorbitan tristearate 0 100 0
0 0 0 0 NHO 0 0 7 0 16 0 77 Lipex 205 .TM. 0 0 9 0 0 0 91 Lipex 512
.TM. 0 0 9 0 0 0 91 Lipex Bassol C .TM. 0 0 0 0 0 0 100 Soybean oil
0 0 0 0 0 0 100 Akomed R .TM. 0 0 0 0 0 0 100 Lipex SheaLight .TM.
0 0 9 0 0 0 91 Isopropyl palmitate (IPP) 0 0 0 0 0 0 100 Paraffin
wax 100 0 0 0 0 0 0
[0089] Paraffin wax SP-674, Strahl & Pitsch Inc--USA. A
paraffin wax with a melting point of 70.degree. C. and contains
mainly carbon chain lengths between 30-35.
Petrolatum: White Protopet 1 SH, Sonneborn
[0090] This petrolatum is a very soft type of petrolatum.
Petrolatum K:
[0091] For all barrier tests a commercial Klovers Vaseline,
produced by Unilever was used. Petrolatum Klover is 100% petrolatum
based. This can be considered as hard type of a petrolatum.
Experimental Procedures
[0092] Blending Procedure:
[0093] Prior to the blending all ingredients were warmed at
80.degree. C. until completely melted. The blends were made
according to Table 1-14, in 40 g batches in a 100 ml beaker. Each
blend was then divided in four, and added to small glass jars with
10 grams in each. Three of the glass jars were cooled at room
temperature in a cooling cabinet or with stirring until reaching
the end temperature. After reaching the end temperature the jars
were kept at 20.degree. C.
[0094] The texture measurements were performed with a texture
analyser TA.XT.Plus.
[0095] The DSC tests were performed using a Mettler-Toledo DSC-
822e. 3-10 mg product was added to an aluminium capsule and sealed.
The filled capsule was transferred into the DSC unit. The sample
was heated to 90.degree. C. (5.degree. C./min). After 2 minutes at
90.degree. C. the capsule was cooled to -30 C (5.degree. C./min)
and kept for 20 minutes at -30.degree. C. Finally, the sample was
heated to 90.degree. C. (5.degree. C./min). The melting point
(endset) is defined as endset of the last peak during the last
step.
Experiment 1
[0096] The soft petrolatum was melted at 80.degree. C. until
completely melted. The samples were then cooled to room temperature
and stored at 20.degree. C. until further use or minimum 72
hours.
TABLE-US-00002 TABLE 1 The recipe [gram] Petrolatum - White 40 g
Protopet 1 SH Resulting composition [wt %]
Experiment 2
[0097] A Hard Petrolatum was melted at 80.degree. C. until
completely melted. The samples were then cooled to room temperature
and stored at 20.degree. C. until further use or minimum 72
hours.
TABLE-US-00003 TABLE 2 The recipe [gram] Petrolatum Klover 40 g
Experiment 3
[0098] A blend of the ingredients according to the recipe in Table
3 was made by blending all ingredients at 80.degree. C. until
completely melted. The samples were then cooled to room temperature
and stored at 20.degree. C. until further use or minimum 72
hours.
TABLE-US-00004 TABLE 3 The recipe [gram] Akofine R 4 Lipex Bassol C
36 Sum 40 Resulting composition [wt %] Non polar hard 10 component
(structuring agent) Semi polar hard 0 component (structuring agent)
oil thickening agent 0 phytosterol or ester 0 thereof emollient
90
Experiment 4
[0099] A blend of the ingredients according to the recipe in Table
4 was made by blending all ingredients at 80.degree. C. until
completely melted. The samples were then cooled to room temperature
and stored at 20.degree. C. until further use or minimum 72
hours.
TABLE-US-00005 TABLE 4 The recipe [gram] Akofine R 4 Lipex Bassol C
34.8 Cetearyl behenate 1.2 Sum 40 Resulting composition [wt %] Non
polar hard 13 component (structuring agent) Semi polar hard 0
component (structuring agent) oil thickening agent 0 phytosterol or
ester 0 thereof emollient 87
Experiment 5
[0100] A blend of the ingredients according to the recipe in Table
5 was made by blending all ingredients at 80.degree. C. until
completely melted. The samples were then cooled to room temperature
and stored at 20.degree. C. until further use or minimum 72
hours.
TABLE-US-00006 TABLE 5 The recipe [gram] Akofine R 4 Lipex Bassol C
34.8 Sunflower wax 1.2 Sum 40 Resulting composition [wt %] Non
polar hard 13 component (structuring agent) Semi polar hard 0
component (structuring agent) oil thickening agent 0 phytosterol or
ester 0 thereof emollient 87
Experiment 6
[0101] A blend of the ingredients according to the recipe in Table
6 was made by blending all ingredients at 80.degree. C. until
completely melted. The samples were then cooled to room temperature
and stored at 20.degree. C. until further use or minimum 72
hours.
TABLE-US-00007 TABLE 6 The recipe [gram] Lipex SheaLight 17.6 Lipex
Bassol C 4.4 NHO 12 Akofine R 6 Sum 40 Resulting composition [wt %]
Non polar hard 15 component (structuring agent) Semi polar hard 0
component (structuring agent) oil thickening agent 5 phytosterol or
ester 5 thereof Emollient 75
[0102] This preparation contains a blend of Lipex SheaLight (44wt
%),
[0103] Trisaturated triglycerides (15 wt %), hydrogenated vegetable
oil and natural hydrocarbon oil (30 wt %). The amount of natural
hydrocarbon in the blend was 6 wt %. The sensory properties of the
blend are very light and resembles that of petrolatum.
Experiment 7
[0104] A blend of the ingredients according to the recipe in Table
7 was made by blending all ingredients at 80.degree. C. until
completely melted. The samples were then cooled to room temperature
and stored at 20.degree. C. until further use or minimum 72
hours.
TABLE-US-00008 TABLE 7 The recipe [gram] Lipex Bassol C 16 NHO 20
Akofine R 4 Sum 40 Resulting composition [wt %] Non polar hard 10
component (structuring agent) Semi polar hard 0 component
(structuring agent) oil thickening agent 8 phytosterol or ester 4
thereof emollient 78 emollient
Experiment 8
[0105] A blend of the ingredients according to the recipe in Table
8 was made by blending all ingredients at 80.degree. C. until
completely melted. The samples were then cooled to room temperature
and stored at 20.degree. C. until further use or minimum 72
hours.
TABLE-US-00009 TABLE 8 The recipe [gram] Lipex SheaLight 13 Lipex
Bassol C 13 NHO 6 Akofine R 8 Sum 40 Resulting composition [wt %]
Non polar hard 20 component (structuring agent) Semi polar hard 0
component (structuring agent) oil thickening agent 2 phytosterol or
ester 3 thereof Emollient 75
Experiment 9
[0106] A blend of the ingredients according to the recipe in Table
9 was made by blending all ingredients at 80.degree. C. until
completely melted. The samples were then cooled to room temperature
and stored at 20.degree. C. until further use or minimum 72
hours.
TABLE-US-00010 TABLE 9 The recipe [gram] Akofine R 4 Lipex Bassol C
24.8 Cetearyl behenate 1.2 NHO 10 Sum 40 Resulting composition [wt
%] Non polar hard 13 component (structuring agent) Semi polar hard
0 component (structuring agent) oil thickening agent 4 phytosterol
or ester 2 thereof emollient 81
Experiment 10
[0107] A blend of the ingredients according to the recipe in Table
10 was made by blending all ingredients at 80.degree. C. until
completely melted. The samples were then cooled to room temperature
and stored at 20.degree. C. until further use or minimum 72
hours.
TABLE-US-00011 TABLE 10 The recipe [gram] Cetearyl behenate 2.5
Paraffin 2.5 Lipex Bassol C 27 NHO 8 Sum 40 Resulting composition
[wt %] Non polar hard 13 component (structuring agent) Semi polar
hard 0 component (structuring agent) oil thickening agent 3
phytosterol or ester 2 thereof emollient 82
Experiment 11
[0108] A blend of the ingredients according to the recipe in Table
11 was made by blending all ingredients at 80.degree. C. until
completely melted. The samples were then cooled to room temperature
and stored at 20.degree. C. until further use or minimum 72
hours.
TABLE-US-00012 TABLE 11 The recipe [gram] Akofine R 4 Lipex Bassol
C 24.8 Sunflower wax 1.2 NHO 10 Sum 40 Resulting composition [wt %]
Non polar hard 13 component (structuring agent) Semi polar hard 0
component (structuring agent) oil thickening agent 4 phytosterol or
ester 2 thereof emollient 81
Experiment 12
[0109] A blend of the ingredients according to the recipe in Table
12 was made by blending all ingredients at 80.degree. C. until
completely melted. The samples were then cooled to room temperature
and stored at 20.degree. C. until further use or minimum 72
hours.
TABLE-US-00013 TABLE 12 The recipe [gram] Cetaryl behenate 4 Lipex
Bassol C 24 NHO 12 Sum 40 Resulting composition [wt %] Non polar
hard 10 component (structuring agent) Semi polar hard 0 component
(structuring agent) oil thickening agent 5 phytosterol or ester 2
thereof emollient 83
Experiment 13
[0110] A blend of the ingredients according to the recipe in Table
13 was made by blending all ingredients at 80.degree. C. until
completely melted. The samples were then cooled to room temperature
and stored at 20.degree. C. until further use or minimum 72
hours.
TABLE-US-00014 TABLE 13 The recipe [gram] Akofine R 4 Lipex 512
26.8 NHO 8 Sorbitan tristearate 1.2 Sum 40 Resulting in [wt %] Non
polar hard 10 component (structuring agent) Semi polar hard 3
component (structuring agent) oil thickening agent 2 phytosterol or
ester 6 thereof (esters) Emollient 79
Experiment 14
[0111] A blend of the ingredients according to the recipe in Table
14 was made by blending all ingredients at 80.degree. C. until
completely melted. The samples were then cooled to room temperature
and stored at 20.degree. C. until further use or minimum 72
hours.
TABLE-US-00015 TABLE 14 The recipe [gram] Akofine R 4 Lipex Bassol
C 33.5 NHO 2.5 Sum 40 Resulting composition [wt %] Non polar hard
10 component (structuring agent) Semi polar hard 0 component
(structuring agent) oil thickening 1 agent phytosterol or 0.4 ester
thereof emollient 88.6
Physicochemical Measurements:
[0112] Samples from experiments 1, 2, 6, and 8 were analyzed with
texture analyser and samples 1-14 were analyzed with DSC.
[0113] 3-10 mg of each sample was added to aluminum caps and
sealed.
[0114] The sealed caps then were added to the DSC and a program
going from 90.degree. C. to -30.degree. C. and up again, 5.degree.
C./minute was used to analyse the end set temperature.
TABLE-US-00016 Exp DSC Endset Name (.degree. C.) 1 71 2 76 3 57 4
56 5 62 6 57 7 57 8 58 9 56 10 63 11 60 12 59 13 58 14 57
[0115] The hardness was measured at 20.degree. C. using a texture
analyser TA.XT.Plus. where a 4 mm cylindrical steel probe was used
to penetrate the samples in jars 10 mm at a speed of 5 mm/s.
TABLE-US-00017 Table Texture DSC Onset Exp Crystallization DSC
Endset Name (.degree. C.) (.degree. C.) Hardness [gram] 1 54.9 71.3
17 2 66.7 75.6 78 8 42.1 58.4 28 6 39.3 56.5 22
Barrier tests. [0116] 0.7 grams of lipids at 30.degree. C. Selected
oils, esters and veg oil blends were evaluated as barriers of
moisture. [0117] 8 grams of water was added to a small beaker. The
area of the top of the beaker was 9 cm.sup.2. The headspace was
measured to 1 cm, up to the lid of the beaker. A filter paper was
put on top of the beaker and taped around the beaker in order to
keep it steady. The oils and esters were heated to 80.degree. C.
and 0.7 grams were added to the filter paper, corresponding to a
layer thickness of approximately 0.8 mm. The beakers were
transferred into a cabinet with a temperature of 30.degree. C. The
weight of each beaker was measured at predetermined intervals in
order to evaluate the rate of water loss. The reported values
represent the average water loss per hour from time zero.
TABLE-US-00018 [0117] mg water/ hour/cm.sup.2 Experiment No. 22 h
45 h 2 0.4 0.5 3 3.4 3.7 4 2.3 2.4 5 2.3 2.5 7 0.7 0.6 9 1.3 1.5 10
0.9 1.0 11 0.8 1.0 12 0.4 0.5 13 0.7 0.7 14 2.4 2.5
Experiment 15, Oil in Water Emulsions
[0118] Two formulations were prepared.
[0119] Each phase was prepared separately according to Table 14 F1
and 14 F2. A Stephan blender was used for homogenization. Phase A
was first added to the Stephan blender and then during stirring
phase B and finally phase C was added. The formulation was allowed
to be homogenized for 30 minutes. The products were transferred to
a beaker and allowed to cool at room temperature. A lid was added
to the beaker and then stored for two weeks at room temperature. No
sign of separation was seen. The samples were then evaluated with
respect to barrier function.
[0120] Formulation 1 (batch size 500 g)
TABLE-US-00019 TABLE 15 F1 Grams Phase A, Temperature 75.degree. C.
1. Aqua 351.50 2. Carrageenan 1.00 3. Xantan Gum 1.00 4. Glycerin
20.00 5. Disodium EDTA 1.00 Phase B, Temperature 75.degree. C. 6.
Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate 15.00 7. Cetearyl Alcohol 10.00 8.
Glyceryl Stearate SE 10.00 9. Preparation from experiment 8 85.00
Phase C, Temperature 35.degree. C. 10. Triethanolamine 0.50 11.
Phenoxyethanol, 5.00 Ethylhexylglycerin
[0121] Formulation 2 (batch size 500 g)
TABLE-US-00020 TABLE 15 F2 Grams Phase A, Temperature 75.degree. C.
1. Aqua 351.50 2. Carrageenan 1.00 3. Xantan Gum 1.00 4. Glycerin
20.00 5. Disodium EDTA 1.00 Phase B, Temperature 75.degree. C. 6.
Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate 15.00 7. Cetearyl Alcohol 10.00 8.
Glyceryl Stearate SE 10.00 9. Petrolatum, experiment-1 85.00 Phase
C, Temperature 35.degree. C. 10. Triethanolamine 0.50 11.
Phenoxyethanol, 5.00 Ethylhexylglycerin
Barrier Test 2, 0.5 Grams of Lipids at 30.degree. C.
[0122] The two oil in water emulsions prepared were evaluated as
barrier of moisture.
[0123] 8 grams of water was added to a small beaker. The area of
the beaker was 9 cm.sup.2. The headspace was measure to 1 cm, up to
the lid of the beaker. A filter paper was put on top of the beaker
and taped around the beaker in order keep steady.
[0124] 0.5 grams of the formulations were added to the filter
paper, corresponding to an initial layer thickness of approximately
0.5 mm. After evaporation of the water of the formulation, this
corresponds approximately to a layer thickness of 167 .mu.m. The
beakers were transferred into a cabinet with a temperature of
30.degree. C. The weight of each beaker was measured in order to
evaluate water losses.
[0125] Two samples of each formulation was tested.
TABLE-US-00021 TABLE 15 F3 mg water/hour/cm.sup.2 2 hours 6 hours
22 hours 46 hours Formulation 1. Replicate 1 18.8 8.6 3.9 2.9
Formulation 1, Replicate 2 18.6 8.7 4.2 3.2 Formulation 2,
Replicate 1 14.7 9.1 4.7 3.9 Formulation 2, Replicate 2 18.6 8.7
4.2 3.2
The values at 46 hours show an average evaporation rate of 3.1 mg
water/hour/cm.sup.2 for the preparation comprising the petrolatum
replacement according to Experiment 8. The average evaporation rate
for the formulation with petrolatum (Experiment 1) was 3.6 mg
water/hour/cm.sup.2. It is concluded that the formulation including
Experiment 8 has equal or better barrier properties compared to
petrolatum.
Comments to the Results
[0126] Experiment 2 is the petrolatum and is used as a reference
for excellent occlusivity. The lower evaporation rate indicates
improved potential for barriers. Experiments 3-5 and 14 are
references where the evaporation rate is 5-8 times higher than
petrolatum, thus not considered as giving satisfactory barrier or
occlusivity potential. These preparations contain waxes and/or high
melting triglycerides but not phytosterols or oil thickening agents
in concentrations according to the invention. Experiment 6 and 8
contains a very low viscous and highly polar ester, Lipex
SheaLight, which is known to not give barrier effects, but instead
gives fast spreading and absorbing properties. The results indicate
that the lower viscosity and higher polarity lead to lower barrier
properties. By combining trisaturated triglycerides with a natural
hydrocarbon and an ester, improved sensory properties with improved
barrier properties was found. Especially Experiments 7, 12 and 13
and 15 show a particularly good barrier effect, similar to
petrolatum.
[0127] All the described alternative embodiments above or parts of
an embodiment can be freely combined without departing from the
inventive idea as long as the combination is not contradictory.
[0128] Other features and uses of the invention and their
associated advantages will be evident to a person skilled in the
art upon reading the description and the examples.
[0129] It is to be understood that this invention is not limited to
the particular embodiments shown here. The embodiments are provided
for illustrative purposes and are not intended to limit the scope
of the invention since the scope of the present invention is
limited only by the appended claims and equivalents thereof.
* * * * *