U.S. patent application number 16/216563 was filed with the patent office on 2019-06-27 for dress shirt.
The applicant listed for this patent is Tommy John, Inc.. Invention is credited to Tom Patterson.
Application Number | 20190191791 16/216563 |
Document ID | / |
Family ID | 66949106 |
Filed Date | 2019-06-27 |
View All Diagrams
United States Patent
Application |
20190191791 |
Kind Code |
A1 |
Patterson; Tom |
June 27, 2019 |
DRESS SHIRT
Abstract
A shirt is disclosed as including a first material at least
three openings constructed for a neck and two arms of a wearer, and
at least two gussets of a second material. Each gusset is located
adjacent to a respective one of two of the at least three openings.
The at least two gussets are for absorbing at least a portion of
movement of the first material. Additionally, this disclosure is
also to a pair of gussets for use with a movable material. The pair
of gussets includes a first material forming individual gussets of
the pair of gussets having different grain than the movable
material. Attachment regions in the individual gussets are for the
movable material to include the individual gussets adjacent to at
least two openings constructed for a wearer of the movable
material.
Inventors: |
Patterson; Tom; (New York,
NY) |
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Applicant: |
Name |
City |
State |
Country |
Type |
Tommy John, Inc. |
New York |
NY |
US |
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|
Family ID: |
66949106 |
Appl. No.: |
16/216563 |
Filed: |
December 11, 2018 |
Related U.S. Patent Documents
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Application
Number |
Filing Date |
Patent Number |
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14813827 |
Jul 30, 2015 |
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16216563 |
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Current U.S.
Class: |
1/1 |
Current CPC
Class: |
A41B 1/16 20130101; A41B
2300/324 20130101; A41B 5/00 20130101; A41B 1/08 20130101; A41D
1/22 20130101; A41H 33/00 20130101; A41B 2300/22 20130101; A41F
17/00 20130101; A41D 27/24 20130101 |
International
Class: |
A41D 1/22 20060101
A41D001/22; A41B 1/16 20060101 A41B001/16; A41B 5/00 20060101
A41B005/00 |
Claims
1. A shirt comprising: a first material at least three openings
constructed for a neck and two arms of a wearer; and at least two
gussets of a second material comprising a different grain than the
first material, each gusset located adjacent to a respective one of
two of the at least three openings, the at least two gussets
absorbing at least a portion of movement of the first material.
2. The shirt of claim 1, wherein the first material comprises
multiple portions of a same fabric stitched or woven together
according to pre-determined dimensions.
3. The shirt of claim 1, wherein the second material comprises
multiple portions of a same fabric stitched or woven together
according to pre-determined dimensions.
4. The shirt of claim 1, further comprising: an elasticized hem at
a bottom portion of the first material.
5. The shirt of claim 1, further comprising: tapered dimensions to
the first material, where a chest area of the first material is
wider than a hip area of the first material, and the hip area is
wider than a posterior area of the first material.
6. The shirt of claim 1, further comprising: a set of primary
buttons on the first material; and a set of secondary buttons on
the first material, a last button of the secondary buttons being
adjacent to a hem of the shirt.
7. The shirt of claim 1, wherein the secondary buttons are
snap-type buttons.
8. The shirt of claim 1, further comprising: a set of primary
buttons on the first material; and a set of secondary buttons on
the first material, a last button of the secondary buttons being
adjacent to a hem of the shirt.
9. The shirt of claim 1, further comprising: a vertical opening
extending along a front of the shirt and including at least a
portion of a first opening of the at least three openings; the
vertical opening having a first side and second side, each of the
first side and the second side securable to each other using
primary buttons and secondary buttons; and the primary buttons
offering at least one different mechanical aspect than the
secondary buttons.
10. The shirt of claim 9, wherein the vertical opening comprises a
portion of an elasticized hem.
11. A pair of gussets for use with a movable material, comprising:
a first material forming individual gussets of the pair of gussets
having a different grain than the movable material; and attachment
regions in the individual gussets for the movable material to
comprise the individual gussets adjacent to at least two openings
constructed for a wearer of the movable material.
12. The pair of gussets of claim 11, wherein second material of the
pair of gussets comprises multiple portions of a same fabric
stitched or woven together according to pre-determined
dimensions.
13. The pair of gussets of claim 11, wherein individual gussets of
the pair of gussets are symmetrical to each other.
14. The pair of gussets of claim 11, further comprising: a hem
within the gusset forming the attachment regions, the hem being a
doubled-over first material.
15. The pair of gussets of claim 11, further comprising: the first
material having different portions of a same fabric stitched
together.
16. The pair of gussets of claim 11, further comprising: the first
material having different portions of different fabrics stitched
together, the different fabrics of an aggregate elasticity that is
more than an elasticity of the movable material.
17. The pair of gussets of claim 11, wherein individual ones of the
gussets are shaped in a form of a diamond.
18. The pair of gussets of claim 11, wherein individual ones of the
gussets are attachable to different areas of the movable
material.
19. The pair of gussets of claim 11, wherein individual ones of the
gussets are colored similar to a color of the movable material.
20. The pair of gussets of claim 11, wherein individual ones of the
gussets are of material that comprises similar texture to the
movable material.
Description
CROSS-REFERENCES TO RELATED APPLICATIONS
[0001] This application claims priority from and is a
Continuation-in-Part of U.S. application Ser. No. 14/813,827, filed
Jul. 30, 2015, which in turn claims priority from U.S. Provisional
Patent Application No. 62/108,199, filed on Jan. 27, 2015, and is a
Continuation-in-Part of U.S. patent application Ser. No.
12/338,742, filed on Dec. 18, 2008, which claims priority from U.S.
Provisional Application No. 61/043,044, filed on Apr. 7, 2008, the
disclosures of all of which are incorporated by the above
references, in their entireties herein.
BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION
[0002] The present invention relates to clothing and specifically
to dress shirts. Dress shirts are clothes worn as a top, sometimes
a standalone item, and other times in combination with another top
clothing article like a blazer, jacket, sweater, and/or tie. Dress
shirts are often tucked-in to a bottom article of clothing, such as
pants or a skirt, to produce a desired neat or professional
appearance.
[0003] However there are several problems with dress shirts
currently on the market. Once tucked in, dress shirts generally
"pull up", "ride up", or bunch up when the wearer moves (i.e. when
the wear stands up, sits down, or walks around), resulting in an
uneven tuck or even completely untucking the dress shirt. This
produces a messy, unkempt, or unflattering appearance. Dress shirts
do not typically fit or maintain the desired shape and tuck
according to how they are shown in advertisements, on packaging,
and/or on models.
[0004] A strong need exists for a dress shirt that does not bunch
up and become easily untucked. The prior art has long looked for
solutions to the problem, in some cases dating back to the 1920's.
In one case, U.S. Pat. No. 1,530,565, Lindauer proposed a strap
device that is passed from the bottom rear hem between the legs and
attached to the bottom of the front hem of the shirt. This is
similar to that of Johnson, U.S. Pat. No. 1,653,288. This approach
continued with U.S. Pat. No. 2,727,247. Another approach was to
apply friction between the pants and the shirt. Hubbard, U.S. Pat.
No. 4,480,339 discloses a waistband structure on the interior
surface of a pair of trousers that is intended to prevent a shirt
that is tucked in from riding up. This approach doesn't work well
because inevitably, the shirt rides up at the waist, and the tight
fit prevents the shirt from riding back down. In addition, that
approach requires a normal force to produce the frictional force.
The normal force, which is by definition perpendicular to the
motion that the frictional force is to prevent, is therefore a
force in towards the body. This implies that these approaches
require that the trousers fit tightly at the waist. This is not be
comfortable for the wearer and is really no solution to the problem
at all.
[0005] A variation on this concept is the frictional element being
embedded in the shirt. This is disclosed by Hamlet, U.S.
Publication No. 2006/0010559. Hamlet discloses a device made of
rigid fibers attached to a base material that creates a fabric band
that is placed around the waist of the shirt. The nap, or direction
of the fibers, point up. According to Hamlet, this prevents the
shirt from riding up because the fibers are in contact with the
inside surface of the trouser at the region of the waist line.
However, Hamlet also discloses that this approach requires
"compressing action" between the shirt and the pants, that is, the
belt must be cinched tight in order for it to work.
[0006] The impracticality of these devices, as well as the
discomfort they produce is plainly evident. Therefore there
continues to be a need for a dress shirt that is constructed so
that it does not ride up as the wearer moves, yet is comfortable to
wear.
SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION
[0007] The present invention is a dress shirt that is combination
of a tapered shape that creates a close fit on the buttocks of the
person wearing the shirt using a fabric with sufficient elasticity
in its fiber content so that the snug fit holds the bottom of the
shirt in place. However, the fabric cannot be so elastic that it
introduces tightness around the waist, which would then cause the
shirt to ride up. In addition, an elastic hem may be attached to
the bottom of the shirt in order that the fabric of the shirt is
positioned properly below the posterior of the buttocks. For dress
shirts that are button-down, that is, there is a buttoned opening
down the front of the shirt, additional snaps may be used at the
bottom of the shirt at the front opening in order to fasten the two
sides of the bottom of the shirt and thereby maintain elastic
tension along the longitudinal axis of the elastic hem.
[0008] The present disclosure is also to a shirt that remains
untucked and resists riding up from being tucked into a lower
clothing by a wearer. This feature is particularly beneficial when
the wearer of the shirt moves about during regular course of wear
as the shirt remains tucked in. In an aspect, the present
disclosure includes different types of shirts, such as formal and
informal shirts that may be worn tucked into a pair of pants, with
the pair of pants forming the lower clothing. For female wearers,
the shirt may be tucked into pants, skirts, or other fashion wear,
as the wearer sees fit. The shirt may include one or more features
to enable it to remain untucked and resist ride-ups from the lower
clothing. In an example, the shirt may include tapered shape from a
chest area of the wearer to a hip area, and further to an area
below the posterior of the wearer. One of ordinary skill would
appreciate that these areas are definite for purposes of recreating
the disclosed shirt but is defined in this manner as the
measurements change according to the physique of the wearer.
[0009] In another example feature included with, or separately
from, the tapered shape, is the use of different elasticity amounts
at the different areas referenced above. In an example, the
different elasticity amounts may result from a difference in the
amount of material in each of the different areas referenced above.
For example, as the chest area is more than the hip and the
subsequent posterior area, the amount of general material in each
area decreases as is implicitly a feature of the tapered shape. The
decrease in the general material is also a decrease in the amount
of elastic material and that decrease in the amount of elastic
material supports the decreased elasticity amounts. Alternatively,
the shirt fabric is created off a cut that has a tapered variation
in the amount of elastic material woven into the general fabric. In
an implementation, the top part of the taper has more elasticity,
followed by the lower parts of the taper, irrespective of the
amount of material in each of the above referenced taper areas.
[0010] In another example feature included with, or separately,
from each of the tapered shape and the use of the different
elasticity amounts, is the use of gussets in the underarm areas of
the shirt. In an aspect the gussets are stitched into the shirt as
a separate piece. In another aspect, the gussets are integrated
into the material of the shirt by a similar method as noted above,
where an area of the general shirt material includes a different
amount of elasticity or is of a reduced elastic content, such that
the area expresses different movement than the general shirt
material. In another example, the gussets are of different grains
or weave than the shirt material. The shirt material may be of a
straight grain across the body, while the gusset are of a material
that is cut in a cross grain to afford a different direction of
stretch than the shirt material. As such, the term material may
refer to an entirely different material or a different cut or a
different grain of the same material. In each of these gusset
examples, the gusset is a symmetrical piece of material that may be
symmetrical about one or more of a longitudinal axis or a
latitudinal axis of a shirt in a normal vertical (hanging)
layout.
[0011] Yet another example feature included with, or separately,
from each of the above features, is the use of secondary buttons
towards a bottom hem of the short after the primary buttons. The
primary buttons represent the button-up features from around the
neck area to below the waist area of a wearer, so that the shirt
may enclose the wearer's body. The secondary buttons represent
addition buttons provided from below the last primary button till
about a hem of the shirt. The primary buttons incorporate larger
spacing than the secondary buttons. The secondary buttons may be
press-type snap buttons to join the hem from either side of the
shirt together.
[0012] A further example feature included with, or separately, from
each of the above features, is the use of elastic within the hem to
ensure that the shirt stays in place as the hem wraps around the
wearer at a region slightly below the posterior. The hem is
elasticized either by the elastic within the hem or using an
integrated material of additional elasticity than the rest of the
shirt material in the hem area. Furthermore, the shirt may be
designed to keep the sleeves to neck ratio for traditional sizing,
but to extend the shirt hem more than the traditional sizing. The
extended hem is at an area below the posterior of the wearer. This
allows for the shirt hem, with its elastic feature and/or the shirt
with its secondary buttons to engage the area posterior and resist
ride-ups and untucking that may be the case in traditional shirts.
Furthermore, the secondary buttons provide additional engagement of
the area below the posterior by allowing the wearer to select as
many of the secondary buttons to secure together the shirt area
below the primary buttons. Once the secondary buttons are secured
together, the hem, with its separately stitched elastic or with its
integrated elastic material, is able to provide as much engagement
with the area below the posterior as required by the wearer.
BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS
[0013] FIGS. 1A, 1B, and 1C are front views of example shirts
incorporating aspects in accordance with the present
disclosure.
[0014] FIG. 1D is a side view of an example shirt incorporating
example aspects of the present disclosure.
[0015] FIG. 1E is a rear view of an example shirt incorporating
example embodiments of the present disclosure.
[0016] FIG. 1F is a view of a gusset that is incorporated in armpit
areas of an example shirt incorporating the present disclosure.
[0017] FIG. 2 is a left side view of an example shirt in an
arms-down position for a wearer.
[0018] FIG. 3 is another rear view of an example shirt of the
present disclosure.
[0019] FIG. 4 is a right side view of an example shirt in an
arms-down position for the wearer.
[0020] FIGS. 5A and 5B are bottom closure features, using secondary
buttons and showing at least a primary button, of an example shirt
with an open front, in open and closed positions.
[0021] FIGS. 6A and 6B are architectural drawings of rear views of
example shirts with included dimension measurement identifiers.
[0022] FIGS. 7A and 7B are architectural drawings of the front
views of example shirts with included dimensional measurement
identifiers.
[0023] FIGS. 8A and 8B are front and rear views of an example
shirt.
[0024] FIG. 9 is an assembly of one embodiment focusing on an
elastic hem of an example shirt.
[0025] FIG. 10 is a side view drawing of body wearing the shirt and
measurement points.
DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE PREFERRED EMBODIMENTS
[0026] The present invention solves the problems of the prior art,
by providing a novel new design for a dress shirt that does not
bunch up or become easily untucked. The dress shirt in one
embodiment is constructed with an at least partially tapered torso
portion comprised of a front portion made of fabric and an at least
partially tapered torso back portion made of the same fabric.
Fabrics may be comprised of polyester, nylon, lyocel, rayon, modal,
or natural fabrics like wool, cotton, silk, or jersey, and any
blends thereof. In this embodiment, the dress shirt also features
two openings for the insertion of the intended wearer's arm,
wherein the upper region of the dress shirt where the front and
back torso portions attach by seam is closed except for a hole for
the insertion of the intended wearer's head and neck.
[0027] FIGS. 1A, 1B, and 1C are front views of example shirts
incorporating aspects in accordance with the present disclosure.
Example shirts 100, 110, 130 incorporate one or more features of
(a) a tapered shape from a chest area of the wearer to a hip area,
and further to an area below the posterior of the wearer; (b)
different elasticities in each of the areas referenced in (a),
where the different elasticities are integrated elastic within a
single material during a weaving stage, are different elastic
materials backing a single material, or different materials sewn
together to form the tapered shape; (c) elastic within a hem of the
shirt, where the elastic is woven into the material at the hem or
is sewn into the hem; and (d) secondary buttons below primary
buttons, the secondary buttons offering further engagement of the
hem and the shirt at the area below the posterior of the wearer to
the posterior. In each example shirt 100, 110, 130, the shirt may
include: sleeves 114A, 114B, 134A, 134B; gussets 112A, 112B, 132A,
132B; hem 116, 136 with elastic 118, 138 within it or integrated to
it; and/or secondary buttons 123, 140.
[0028] Each of shirts 100, 110, 130 may be men's or women's dress
shirt. When the shirt is a men's dress shirt, sizes may include: 15
32/33, 15 34/35, 15.5 32/33, 15.5 34/35, 16 32/33, 16 34/35, 16.5
32/33, 16.5 34/35, 17 32/33, 17 34/35, 17.5 32/33, and 17.5 34/35.
A person of ordinary skill would recognize these sizes as
corresponding to a sleeve length and neck circumference,
respectively, in each case. Additionally, a default size may exist
at 15.5 34/35/. Further, each of shirts 100, 110, 130 may include
fusible tape and fusible webbing to bind and maintain the shape of
various shirt components.
[0029] A neck band 142 is provided with circumference that reflects
a predetermined ratio with the sleeves. The hem 116, 136 maybe
styled in a straight line or with one or more curves as illustrated
in the differences of the hem in FIG. 1A compared with FIGS. 1B and
1C. The length from the highest point on shoulder (HPS) to the hem
is such that a predetermined length is first selected using he
reference of the sleeve length and neck length, followed by an
addition of a predetermined additional length. This allows for the
shirt to sit just below the posterior. Example specifications are
provided in TABLES 1 and 2, but may also be calculated using the
entries in the tables to find ratios or multipliers to predict
other dimensions--e.g., the length of the shirt from HPS to the
hem. For example, for sleeve length S1 in TABLE 1, an example HPS
to hem value is determined for one or more actual shirts in a
sample. These two values maybe be divided or provided as a ratio to
form a multiplier. The multiplier may be used with a measured S1
values to predict an appropriate HPS to hem value for a wearer of
the shirt having the measure S1 values. As the appropriate HPS to
hem value is more than a comparable regular shirt, the appropriate
HPS to hem value will include the predetermined additional length
referenced above.
[0030] FIG. 1D is a side view of an example shirt 150 incorporating
example aspects of the present disclosure. Example shirt 150
includes at least the gusset 152 and an elastic hem 154. FIG. 1E is
a rear view of an example shirt 170 incorporating example
embodiments of the present disclosure. FIG. 1E may be a rear view
of example shirt 150, in one instance. In this instance, gusset
172A is the same as gusset 152, but in the rear view. Gusset 172B
is provided on the right side, not visible in FIG. 1D, but is
similar to gusset 172A. Similarly, hem 174 may be a rear view
continuation of hem 154 shown in a left side view. A person of
ordinary skill would recognize that the figures herein provide
clear distinction of existence of a gusset feature in the example
shirts for illustrative purposes only. Particularly, the person of
ordinary skill would recognize that the gusset must be so
structured as to be in the nearly or literally the same color
and/or texture of the shirt material. This makes its almost
invisible because it must not to be apparent to an external
observer that the shirt has distinct underarm material. Indeed,
there is not distraction to the shirt being what it is for all
intents and purposes--a formal shirt, a recreation shirt, a casual
shirt, etc.
[0031] FIG. 1F is a view of a gusset 180 that is incorporated in
armpit areas of an example shirt incorporating the present
disclosure. The gusset 180 is shaped in the form of a diamond to
ensure the broadest elastic coverage in terms of absorbing a range
of motions of at least the sleeve area. In particular, the gusset
180 is at least attachable to a portion of a sleeve and to a chest
area of the shirt. The gusset may also be attachable to one or more
seam areas of the shoulder (e.g., front and/or back). In an aspect,
the gusset may be of similar or same color and of similar or same
texture of the movable material to avoid detection and to ensure
comfort to the wearer in a public environment. Further, while the
shirt is of a first material, the gusset may be of a second
material. The second material, in an example, may be the first
material that is cut on a different grain or weave than the first
material. As such, the fabric composition in the first material is
the same or similar to fabric composition in the second material,
except that when formed into the shirt in FIGS. 1D and 1E (and
elsewhere in the specification and drawings unless stated
otherwise), the first material is distinguished from the second
material by the cut on the grain--straight grain to afford stretch
across a circumference of the wearer for the first material forming
at least the torso portion 178 versus a cross grain to afford
vertical stretch in the armpit area of the wearer for the second
material forming the gussets 172A, 172B.
[0032] In a further aspect, the example shirts herein are generally
made of a stretch cotton poplin material. Such a material may be
95% to 100% cotton and may include spandex as to any remaining
portion. Alternatively, the material may be 95% to 100% of a
synthetic poly fabric. Further, the gusset 180 may be constructed
from one or more panels and may include same or similar material as
the shirt, but cut on a different grain as the shirt. The shirt
referred to such context is understood by a person of ordinary
skill in the art to include at least substantially the torso
portion 178. Further, in another example, the gusset is of same or
similar material as the shirt (e.g., the torso portion 178), but
may include variations to the spandex content in the gussets 172A,
172B for added or different elasticity or stretch characteristics.
In an example, the shirt is in a straight grain cut with elasticity
or stretch characteristics of at least the torso portion 178
applying across the body--circumferentially, while the gussets used
in the shirt is in a cross grain cut with elasticity or stretch
characteristics of the gussets applying to vertical movement
asserted to the armpit (or the sleeves generally). In any
construction, the gusset 180 is designed symmetrical about at least
axis 182. This symmetry ensures even distribution of stretches when
the sleeves are moved around by a wearer of the shirt incorporating
the gussets. As a result, the gussets are able to absorb the
stretching from the sleeves by allowing the gusset material to
stretch vertically, while the rest of the shirt allows stretching
around the circumference of the wearer. As such, a bottom part of
the shirt that is within a lower garment, such as trousers or
skirts, stays untucked and resists bunching at the waist, just
outside the lower garment.
[0033] FIG. 2 is a left side view of an example shirt 200 in an
arms-down position for a wearer. FIG. 2 particularly illustrates
that the gussets are scaled to fit within a width of the sleeve
such that it is not plainly visible to an external viewer.
Furthermore, FIG. 2 also illustrates that the example shirt 200
extends below the posterior of the wearer with a region 204 hugging
or engaging the posterior and the hem 202 being below the
posterior. The hem 202 may be tightly against the wearer or may be
lose depending on the secondary buttons secured or unsecured by the
wearer. In an example, the shirt is of a first material and
includes one or multiple portions of the same fabric stitched or
woven together according to pre-determined dimensions. The gusset
is of a second material comprising or characterized by different
fabric or the same fabric cut on a different grain, and is located
adjacent to at least two of the holes or openings, to absorb
stretching by movement of the first material in a vertical
direction. In an example, when the shirt is tucked in at the hem
174 and the sleeves are raised the first material is stretched
vertically at least at the armpit area. The second material by
virtual of being of a different cut is capable of absorbing the
stretch in the vertical direction. Particularly, holes or openings
for the sleeves and collar are provided in the first material for a
neck and arms of a wearer. The holes or openings may further
include a vertical opening for a torso of the wearer.
[0034] The wearer may move the arms and the neck during a regular
course of use of the shirt, but the second material of the gusset
is of more elastic construction than the first material. This
allows the gusset to absorb the movements of the wearer without
untucking of the shirt from a lower garment--and primarily, without
untucking of the first material that is used to construct the shirt
and that is of lesser elasticity. The gusset, therefore, also helps
resist the bunching of the first material around the area just
outside the lower garment. The first material is also referred to
herein as a movable material as it allows movement by the wearer,
but the movement must be absorbed by the gusset to prevent
untucking and to resist bunching as explained throughout this
disclosure. Furthermore, the gussets include attachment regions
(e.g., reference numeral 184 in FIG. 1F) at the edges of the
gussets to allow the gussets to be included in the movable material
at locations adjacent to holes provided to accommodate a wearer's
appendages--e.g., arms, necks. For example, reference numerals 172A
and 172B provide such illustration of two gussets located adjacent
sleeves of a shirt (that may be substantially the movable
material). The attachment regions are provided to enable strong
coupling to the movable material but not decreasing the elasticity
or the intended effect of the gussets--to absorb movement by
stretching more than the movable material. The attachment regions
may be hems 176 of the gusset that is formed by a doubling-over of
the material of the gusset. This provides strength to the gusset
even while maintaining the elasticity of the remainder of the
gusset.
[0035] The gusset incorporating the second material may also
include multiple portions of a same fabric stitched or woven
together according to pre-determined dimensions and/or
pre-determined cuts of a different grain than the first material.
In an alternative implementation, different fabric of different
elasticities may be used instead in the gusset. An average or
aggregate of the different elasticities (or applicable direction of
the different elasticities) may make the second material have more
elasticity in a certain direction that is not afforded to in the
first material. In a further alternative implementation, the first
material includes woven variations in the taper areas to change an
elasticity of the first material. For example, while constructing
the first material, a lower elasticity is offered in the chest
area, an increasing elasticity amount is offered in the hips area
followed by the highest elasticity in the posterior area. This
allows the shirt to maintain position while tucked in. However, a
person of ordinary skill would also consider that the lower
elasticity is offered in the chest area, followed by decreasing
elasticity amounts in the hips and the posterior area. This may be
to allow for arm and neck movements to be absorbed in the material
of the chest area and not transferred to the lower half of the
shirt. In either aspects, there is a variation of the elasticity of
the first material by integrated weaving or by incorporating
different materials behind the first materials or by stitching
together different areas of materials to form a first material.
Separately, the first material may be of a uniform singular
elasticity throughout at least the torso portion. As such, a first
material, unless expressed differently, may include one or more
fabrics or cuts of fabrics. The one or more fabrics may be of one
or more elasticities and of one or more quantities within the first
material. Such variations may also be in the gusset, but the gusset
is constructed of a different elasticity or of a different cut than
its adjacent first material, making it distinct from the first
material.
[0036] FIG. 3 is another rear view of an example shirt 300 of the
present disclosure. The example shirt 300 may be a rear view of the
example shirt 200 of FIG. 2, with the hem 302 being below an area
hugging or engaging the posterior of the wearer. FIG. 4 is a right
side view of an example shirt 400 in an arms-down position for the
wearer. The example shirt 400 may be a right side view of the
example shirts 200 and 300 in FIGS. 2 and 3, respectively. As in
the case of FIGS. 2 and 3, the example shirt has a hem 402 that is
elasticized and that rests below the posterior of the wearer, such
that a posterior area 404 of the example shirt 400 hugs or engages
the posterior of the wearer. The hugging or engagement of the
posterior area 404 depends on the number of secondary buttons 120,
140 (e.g., FIGS. 1B, 1C) secured in the front of the shirt, towards
the hem 402. The shirt 110 includes primary buttons 122 that may be
mechanically different than the secondary buttons 120 by one or
more aspects. For example, the primary buttons may be hole
penetrating-type, while the secondary buttons are snap-type
buttons. The primary buttons may serve a different purpose (e.g.,
maintaining modesty or preventing air to enter or escape into an
interior of the shirt) than the secondary buttons (e.g., to further
engage the elastic hem or to further assist the hugging or engaging
of the posterior area of the shirt to the wearer).
[0037] A further embodiment of the disclosure is in FIGS. 5A and
5B. Dimensional identifiers indicated in the FIG. 5A correspond to
the snap--the example secondary buttons--and hem dimensions
provided in either Tables 1 or 2. Larger or smaller shirts may be
constructed by proportionally increasing or decreasing the
dimensions provided in inches in Tables 1 and 2. Further, the
dimensions in Table 1 provide a shirt with a bottom curved hem as
illustrated in FIGS. 1A, 6A and 7A, while the dimensions in Table 2
support features of a shirt with a substantially straight hem as in
FIGS. 1B, 1C, 1D, 1E, 2, 3, 4, 6B, 7B, 8A, and 8B.
[0038] The dimensional identifiers indicated in the FIGS. 6 and 7
correspond to the dimensions provided in Table 1 for points of
measure (POM) S1, D2-D6, and C1-C9 on the back of the shirt for
FIG. 6, and for POM S2-S5, S8, A1-A4, A5, A7, B1-B4, K1, and J3 on
the front of the shirt for FIG. 7. Changes in these dimensions may
be proportional, for increasing or decreasing shirt sizes, from the
dimensions provided in inches in Table 1 or in Table 2.
[0039] The dress shirt, schematically shown in side view on FIG.
10, is worn on a body (1000) and has a first taper from the chest
(1002) down to the waist (1004). In the preferred embodiment the
first taper is at least 10% and no more than 31%. The shirt is also
tapered from the waist (1004) to the bottom hem (1008) with a
second taper that is more than that of the first taper. In the
preferred embodiment, the second taper be at least 16% and no more
than 35%.
[0040] The bottom of the shirt is constructed to extend below
posterior of the buttock (1006). That is, for a shirt constructed
for given size category, the person corresponding to that size
category that wears the constructed shirt should have the bottom
hem of the shirt extend past their posterior of their buttock
(1006). A shirt is constructed for given size category if a person
corresponding to that size category can fit properly into the shirt
so that their head and neck protrude through the corresponding
holes in the shirt without undue stretch of the chest region of the
shirt (1002) when the front of the shirt is buttoned or otherwise
closed. In an embodiment, the bottom (including or referencing the
hem) of the shirt extends between approximately 1 inch and 4 inches
past the posterior (1006) when a shirt of a given size category is
worn by a person corresponding to that size category.
[0041] In one embodiment the fabric of the dress shirt is a stretch
material that exhibits elastic properties in a specific direction
for substantially a torso portion of the shirt and that cause the
region of the shirt in the area of the posterior (1006) and below
to the hem (1008) to hug the lower buttock region of the properly
sized wearer, (1006) to (1008). The posterior (1006) is the region
of the buttock that extends out the furthest from the body. The
elasticity of the fabric may be sufficient to create the hugging
effect along the posterior region (1006) to (1008), where the
fabric is engaged with the posterior, but the elasticity is not so
that the shirt rides up and bunches up at the waist region (1004).
Fabrics like cotton do not exhibit sufficient elasticity for the
hugging effect, and high-elasticity fabrics like spandex, which are
used in so-called "muscle-shirts", bunch up at the waist (1004)
when they are worn. Therefore, the elasticity of the fabric is such
that the shirt engages or hugs the wearer's buttocks but does not
bunch at the waist. For this reason, neither woven cotton shirts
with little elasticity nor highly elastic "muscle-shirts" are
shirts that meet the requirements of staying tucked and not
bunching up at the waist.
[0042] The fabric should have a recovery after 1 minute of
approximately 85% or more. In one embodiment, the fabric is a woven
or knit fabrics using at least 4% and not more than approximately
10% of the deformable fiber, for example, spandex or a fiber
similar to it in elasticity. In other embodiments, the fabric is a
woven stretch cotton poplin comprised of 96% cotton and 4% of a
resiliently deformable material, such as Lycra.RTM. or a fiber
similar to it in elasticity. In the preferred embodiment, the
resulting fabric exhibits a modulus of a range between
approximately 0.32 and 0.675 pounds of force (lbf) in the vertical
direction and a modulus in the horizontal direction between 0.227
and 0.473 lbf with a resulting elongation of 165%+/-25%, or in the
range of 123% to 206% in the vertical and an elongation of 185%
+/-25%, or in the rage of 138% to 231% in the horizontal direction.
Elongation may be specified as a percentage of the original fabric
specimen length at a specified load.
[0043] In another embodiment, the dress shirt has an elasticized
hem. In one embodiment the elasticized hem is constructed by
creating a casing hem line and then inserting a piece of elastic
material in the fabric casing and then sealing all the edges. In
another embodiment an elasticized hem is only created in the back
portion of the shirt, which is then connected by a seam to the
front portion of the shirt that features a traditional
non-elasticized hem. In the preferred embodiment, the elastic hem
width is between approximately 1/4'' and approximately 1''. In the
preferred embodiment, the elastic hem has an minimum stretch of
elastic hem sweep of 40% with the ability of the hem to recover
back to 0%, that is, of its measurement. The elastic may be sewn
into the hem from side seam to side seam using an spi of 17-20 when
relaxed--which will equate to 14-18 spi when the elastic hem is
stretched tight. The elastic is aligned with the fabric edge either
manually or using a machine folder, and then encased into the
fabric with two folds, with a single needle stitched to secure the
hem. The stitch should be at least 15 spi but no more than 20 spi.
An exemplary process of constructing the hem is shown in FIG. 9.
Particularly, FIG. 9 is an assembly 900 of one embodiment focusing
on an elastic hem of an example shirt. Elastic 902 is provided in
the hem 904 as the elastic is stretched. The final stitching 906 is
illustrated in Step 3, with the elastic released from its stretched
form and the hem 904 completely encasing the elastic. In one
embodiment, the use of elastic thread as the seam in the hem line
may further aid in producing the desired effect. Further,
additional elastic material may be provided in the hem portion of
the shirt a integrated into the weave of that part of the shirt. In
the preferred embodiment, the elastic hem is between approximately
1/4'' and 1'' in width.
[0044] In yet another embodiment of the dress shirt, there is a
vertical opening extending from the front of the neck hole down to
and including the front of the bottom hem. This opening has a first
and second side, corresponding to the left and right side of the
shirt, viewed from the wearer's perspective. In one embodiment,
closure devices are attached along the edge of the first and second
sides of the opening. In the preferred embodiment, these are
buttons on one side and corresponding button holes on the other. In
the preferred embodiment, there are between 7 and 14 closure
devices along the opening. In the preferred embodiment, the last
two closure devices at the bottom of the shirt are capable of
spontaneously opening when the two sides of the opening are pulled
apart from each other above a pre-determined force. See FIG. 5A and
5B. In this embodiment, the lowest closure point should be no
higher from than 1'' up from the bottom hem. See FIG. 5A. The last
two closure devices are positioned so that when the shirt of a
given size category is worn by the person of corresponding size,
tension along the longitudinal axis of the elastic hem (104) is
maintained when those two closure devices are engaged to bind the
first and second side of the front opening of the shirt together.
See FIGS. 1-4.
[0045] One embodiment of the invention is shown on FIG. 5A and 5B.
The dimensional identifiers indicated in the FIG. 5A correspond to
the snap and hem dimensions provided in Table 1. Larger or smaller
shirts may be constructed by proportionally increasing or
decreasing the dimensions provided in inches in Table 1.
[0046] The dimensional identifiers indicated in the FIGS. 6A and 7A
correspond to the dimensions provided in Table 1 for points of
measure (POM) S1, D2-D6, and C1-C9 on the back of the shirt for
FIG. 6A, and for POM S2-S5, S8, A1-A4, A5, A7, B1-B4, K1, and J3 on
the front of the shirt for FIG. 7A. Similarly, the dimensions in
Table 2 support features of a shirt with a substantially straight
hem as in FIGS. 6B and 7B. Changes in these dimensions may be
proportional, for increasing or decreasing shirt sizes, from the
dimensions provided in inches in Tables 1 or Table 2. Dimensions
not shown in Table 2, as to FIGS. 6B or 7B (compared with those
from FIGS. 6A and 7A) may be inferred from the dimension of Table 1
and FIGS. 6A and 7A, by a person of ordinary skill in the art
reading the present disclosure.
TABLE-US-00001 TABLE 1 Points of Measure Tolerance Tolerance (POM)
DESCRIPTION (-) (+) 141/2 15 151/2 1.sup.st Fit 2.sup.nd Fit A1
Center Front 1/4 1/4 31 313/4 321/2 321/2 (CF) Length From Highest
Point at Shoulder (HPS) to Bottom Edge A2 Length at HPS 1/4 1/4
301/2 311/4 32 to Bottom Edge A3 Sideseam 1/4 1/4 171/4 18 183/4 19
Length From Armhole to Bottom Edge A4 Shoulder Slope 1/4 1/4 1/2
1/2 1/2 13/4 A5 Forward 1/8 1/8 2 2 2 2 Shoulder Yoke at Armhole A7
Waist 0 0 16 161/4 161/2 Placement from HPS B1 Waist Width at 1/4
1/4 18 183/8 183/4 3/4 181/4 PO, A7 B2 Hem Sweep on 1/4 1/4 171/2
177/8 181/4 3/4 18 the Straight B3 Chest Width 1'' 1/4 1/4 20 203/8
203/4 7/8 201/4 Below Armhole B4 Front Width 6'' 1/4 1/4 16 1/4
Down From tapered HPS C1 Center Back 1/4 1/4 301/2 311/4 32 313/4
(CB) Length to Bottom Edge from Neck Seam C2 Length at HPS 1/4 1/4
301/4 31 313/4 32 to Bottom Edge at Back C3 Back Yoke 1/8 1/8 37/8
37/8 37/8 37/8 Height from Neck Seam to Yoke Seam at CB C4 Dart
Placement 1/8 1/8 63/4 63/4 63/4 from Sideseams C5 Top of Dart 1/8
1/8 6 6 6 6 Placement from Side Seam (SS) C6 Bottom of Dart 1/8 1/8
5 5 5 51/2 Placement from SS C7 Dart Length 1/8 1/8 131/4 135/8 14
3/8 14 C8 Dart Depth 1/8 1/8 1/4 1/4 1/4 1/4 C9 Distance 1/8 1/8
83/4 83/4 83/4 81/2 Between Darts D2 Back Shoulders 1/4 1/4 163/4
171/4 173/4 171/4 Width, Armhole to Armhole D3 Back Yoke 1/4 1/4
161/4 163/4 171/4 16 Length D4 Back Width 6'' 1/4 1/4 163/4 153/4
Down From HPS D5 Back Hem 1/4 1/4 18 181/2 19 19 Sweep D6 Back Hem
1/4 1/4 22 221/2 23 24 Sweep Extended S1 Sleeve Length 1/4 1/4
341/2 341/2 341/2 341/2 from CB Neck 3 s//b 33 1/2 Point
Measurement 32/33 S1a Sleeve Length 1/4 1/4 351/2 351/2 351/2 from
CB Neck 3 Point Measurement 34/35 S2 Sleeve Length 1/4 1/4 251/2
251/2 251/4 251/4 from Armhole S3 Armhole on 1/4 1/4 93/4 10 101/4
10 Curve S4 Muscle Width 1/4 1/4 75/8 77/8 8 1/8 77/8 1'' Down From
Armhole S5 Forearm Width 1/4 1/4 6 61/4 61/2 61/2 12'' Up From
Sleeve Opening S6 Cuff Height 1/8 1/8 21/2 25/8 23/4 S7 Cuff
Opening 1/8 1/8 41/4 41/4 41/4 Closed S8 Distance 1/8 1/8 5/8 3/4
7/8 Between Buttons SL1 Cuff Width 1/8 1/8 10 10 10 Open at Widest
Part SL2 Cuff Width at 1/8 1/8 81/8 81/4 83/8 Bottom Edge SL3 Cuff
Edge 1/8 1/8 3/4 7/8 1 Ankle Length SL4 Buttonhole 1/8 1/8 13/8
13/8 13/8 Placement From Cuff Seam SL5 Distance from 1/8 1/8 81/2
81/2 81/2 Center of Buttonhole to Center of Buttonhole SL6 Distance
to First 1/8 1/8 15/8 15/8 15/8 Sleeve Dart from Edge SL7 First
Sleeve 1/8 1/8 5/8 5/8 5/8 Dart Depth SL8 Distance to 1/8 1/8 17/8
17/8 17/8 Second Sleeve Dart SL9 2.sup.nd Sleeve Dart 1/8 1/8 1/4
1/4 1/4 Depth PL1 Sleeve Placket 1/8 1/8 57/8 57/8 57/8 Length at
Side to Seam PL2 Sleeve Placket 1/8 1/8 61/4 61/4 61/4 Length at
Tip to Seam PL3 Sleeve Placket 1/8 1/8 7/8 7/8 7/8 Width PL4
Doghouse 1/8 1/8 11/8 11/8 11/8 Length at Side PL5 Doghouse 1/8 1/8
5/8 5/8 5/8 Length on Angle PL6 Button 1/8 1/8 23/8 23/8 23/8
Placement from Cuff PL7 Ribbon Insert at 1/8 1/8 1/8 1/8 1/8 Cuff
E1 Top Collar 1/8 1/8 15 15 15 141/2 Length at Edge E2 Collar
Length at 1/8 1/8 143/4 151/4 153/4 151/2 Stand Seam E3 Collar
Height at 1/8 1/8 1 11/16 1 11/16 1 11/16 1 11/16 Center Back E4
Collar Height at 1/8 1/8 0 0 Edge F1 Collar Facing 1/8 1/8 11/4
11/4 11/4 Height at Edge F2 Collar Facing 1/8 1/8 155/8 155/8 155/8
Length Edge to Edge F3 Collar Facing 1/8 1/8 83/8 87/8 93/8 Length
Along Stand F4 Collar Facing 1/8 1/8 21/5 22/3 31/5 Angle Length F5
Distance from 1/8 1/8 151/2 161/2 161/2 16 Center Button Hole to
Center Hole F6 Collar Stand 1/8 1/8 161/4 163/4 171/4 Length F7
Collar Stand 1/8 1/8 1/5 2/3 1 3/16 Height at Center F8 Collar
Stand 1/8 1/8 3/4 3/4 3/4 Height at Edge F9 Collar Stand 1/8 1/8
7/8 7/8 7/8 Height at Collar Edge F0 Collar Stand 1/8 1/8 11/16
11/16 11/16 Length from Collar to Edge G1 Collar Stay 0 0 11/2 2 2
1/2 Height G2 Collar Stay 0 0 3/8 3/8 21/2 Width H1 Collar Spread
1/8 1/8 3/8 3/8 3/8 H2 Front Neck 1/8 1/8 43/4 43/4 43/4 Drop from
HPS H3 Back Neck Drop 1/8 1/8 33/4 37/8 4 from HPS H4 Tie Space 1/8
1/8 0 0 0 H5 Ribbon Insert at 1/8 1/8 1/8 1/8 1/8 Neck/Stand Set J1
Front Placket 1 1 1 Width J2 Face Placket 3/4 3/4 3/4 Width J3 Hem
Height 3/8 3/8 3/8 K1 Distance 2 1/2 21/2 21/2 Between Band Button
to First Placket Button K2 Distance 1 1/16 1 1/16 1 1/16 Between
Buttons Center to Center K3 Distance from 0 0 Hem to Bottom Snaps
K4 Distance Between Snaps X1 Placement of 11/2 11/2 11/2 Extra
Buttons on Underside of Button Plackets
TABLE-US-00002 TABLE 2 Points of 15.5 34/35 Size Chart Review
Measure Tolerance Tolerance Actual (POM) DESCRIPTION (-) (+) Target
Actual Delta Revised Al Center Front (CF) Length From 1/4 1/4 321/2
Highest Point at Shoulder (HPS) to Bottom Edge A2 Neck Width - Seam
to Seam -1/8 1/8 53/8 6 5/8 51/2 (1/4'' Grade) A7 Waist 0 0 161/2
Placement from HPS B1 Waist Width at PO, A7 1/4 1/4 183/4 B3 Chest
Width 1'' Below 1/4 1/4 Armhole B4 Front Width 6'' Down From 1/4
1/4 16 1/4 HPS tapered C3 Back Yoke Height from Neck 1/8 1/8 37/8
Seam to Yoke Seam at CB C9 Distance 1/8 1/8 83/4 81/2 Between Darts
D2 Back Shoulders Width, 1/4 1/4 173/4 171/4 Armhole to Armhole D3
Back Yoke Length 1/4 1/4 17 1/4 16 D5 Back Hem Sweep 1/4 1/4 19 19
D6 Back Hem Sweep Extended 1/4 1/4 23 24 S1 Sleeve Length from
Center 1/4 1/4 Back (CB) Neck 3 Point Measurement 32/33 S3 Armhole
on Curve 1/4 1/4 251/4 S4 Muscle Width 1'' Down From 1/4 1/4 101/4
Armhole S5 Forearm Width 12'' Up From 1/4 1/4 81/8 Sleeve Opening
Ref. FIG. Gusset Width - To 1/8 1/8 31/4 31/4 33/8 1F Edges/Center
Stitch Ref. FIG. Gusset Length - To 1/8 1/8 11 107/8 -1/8 11 1F
Edges/Center Stitch
* * * * *