U.S. patent application number 15/986364 was filed with the patent office on 2018-09-27 for indium tin oxide coated particles and compositions.
The applicant listed for this patent is ELC Management LLC. Invention is credited to Andrew Bevacqua, Craig Bonda, Vasile Ionita-Manzatu, Thomas Mammone, Fatemeh Mohammadi, Linda Najdek, Milan Franz Sojka.
Application Number | 20180271756 15/986364 |
Document ID | / |
Family ID | 58695060 |
Filed Date | 2018-09-27 |
United States Patent
Application |
20180271756 |
Kind Code |
A1 |
Bevacqua; Andrew ; et
al. |
September 27, 2018 |
INDIUM TIN OXIDE COATED PARTICLES AND COMPOSITIONS
Abstract
Anhydrous topical compositions containing a solid or hollow
particle ranging from 0.001 to 200 microns in diameter coated with
Indium Tin Oxide ("ITO") and methods for protecting skin against IR
(infrared) radiation by topically applying the anhydrous
compositions.
Inventors: |
Bevacqua; Andrew; (Jericho,
NY) ; Bonda; Craig; (Winfield, IL) ; Najdek;
Linda; (East Islip, NY) ; Mohammadi; Fatemeh;
(Hauppauge, NY) ; Sojka; Milan Franz; (Coram,
NY) ; Ionita-Manzatu; Vasile; (Bethpage, NY) ;
Mammone; Thomas; (Farmingdale, NY) |
|
Applicant: |
Name |
City |
State |
Country |
Type |
ELC Management LLC |
Melville |
NY |
US |
|
|
Family ID: |
58695060 |
Appl. No.: |
15/986364 |
Filed: |
May 22, 2018 |
Related U.S. Patent Documents
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Application
Number |
Filing Date |
Patent Number |
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15339319 |
Oct 31, 2016 |
10004671 |
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15986364 |
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62354207 |
Jun 24, 2016 |
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62253269 |
Nov 10, 2015 |
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Current U.S.
Class: |
1/1 |
Current CPC
Class: |
A61K 8/0279 20130101;
C09C 1/04 20130101; A61K 8/19 20130101; A61K 8/0241 20130101; A61K
8/22 20130101; A61K 2800/412 20130101; A61Q 17/04 20130101; A61K
8/29 20130101; A61K 8/0245 20130101; A61K 8/27 20130101; A61K
2800/621 20130101 |
International
Class: |
A61K 8/22 20060101
A61K008/22; A61K 8/02 20060101 A61K008/02; A61Q 17/04 20060101
A61Q017/04 |
Claims
1. An anhydrous topical composition comprising a solid or hollow
particle ranging from 0.001 to 200 microns in diameter coated with
Indium Tin Oxide ("ITO") in an amount sufficient to block IR
radiation in the wavelength range of IR-A, IR-B, and IR-C and
ranging from 760 to 1 mm.
2. The composition of claim 1 which is pigmented.
3. The composition of claim 1 in the form of a mascara, blush,
foundation, face powder, concealer, or eye shadow.
4. The composition of claim 1 in the form of a solid stick or
spray.
5. A foundation makeup or powder composition with SPF comprising a
solid or hollow particle ranging from 0.001 to 200 microns in
diameter coated with Indium Tin Oxide ("ITO"), pigments, powders,
and at least one chemical or physical sunscreen.
6. The composition of claim 5 wherein the composition is in the
form of a pressed powder.
7. The composition of claim 5 wherein the composition is in the
form of a foundation makeup comprising a volatile solvent, a
silicone resin, and at least one oil.
8. The composition of claim 1 additionally comprising titanium
dioxide.
9. The composition of claim 1 additionally comprising a powder
which is white or non-pigmented.
10. The composition of claim 1 wherein the thickness of the ITO
coating on the particle ranges from 0.1 to 1000 nanometers in
thickness.
10. The composition of claim 1 wherein the ITO coated particle has
a size ranging from 0.001 to 100 microns, which is titanium
dioxide, zinc oxide, or mixtures thereof wherein the particle is
operable to block IR and UV radiation.
11. The composition of claim 10 additionally containing titanium
dioxide or zinc oxide.
12. A method for protecting skin against IR radiation by topically
applying the composition of claim 1.
Description
TECHNICAL FIELD
[0001] The invention is in the field of compositions for topical
application to keratin surfaces containing Indium Tin Oxide coated
particles.
BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION
[0002] The undesirable effects of ultraviolet radiation on skin are
well known. Ultraviolet light is electromagnetic radiation with
wavelengths ranging from 100 to 400 nm. UV wavelengths are shorter
than those of visible light (which ranges from 400 to 700 nm) but
longer than the wavelengths found in X-rays. UV light can be
further categorized into UVA, UVB, and UVC. UVA light has
wavelengths ranging from 315 to 400 nm. UVB light has wavelengths
ranging from 280 to 315 nm. UVC has wavelengths ranging from 100 to
280 nm. UV light can also be categorized by near UV ("NUV") which
is 300 to 400 nm, middle UV ("MUV") which is 200 to 300, and far UV
("FUV") which is 122 to 200 nm. It has been shown that exposure to
UV light can result in immediate skin tanning or burning and, over
time and repeated exposure, increase skin photo aging, which
manifests in conditions such as wrinkles, lines, skin laxity and
uneven pigmentation.
[0003] However, less well documented are the effects of infrared
("IR") light on skin. IR light spans wavelengths ranging from 760
nm to 1 mm and is subdivided into three regions of increasing
wavelength: IR-A from 760 nm to 1400 nm, IR-B from 1400 to 3000 nm,
and IR-C from 3000 nm to 1 mm. The solar energy that reaches the
earth's surface spans the UV, visible, and IR wavelength ranges.
Nearly one half of that solar energy is in the IR range and
transmitted in the form of heat. It is known that chronic heat
exposure can cause certain skin conditions similar to what is seen
in photo-aged skin. For example, a condition known as erythema ab
igne results in symptoms such as hyperpigmentation, reticulated
erythema, scaling, and telangiectasis in skin surfaces that are
exposed to IR radiation over longer periods of time. People who
spend a lot of time in heat conditions, such as bakers or jewelers,
often exhibit this condition, which may also be referred to as
"baker's arms", "hot water bottle rash" or "toasted skin syndrome".
Cho, et al., Effects of Infrared Radiation and Heat on Human Skin
Aging in vivo, The Society for Investigative Dermatology, Vol. 14,
pages 15-19, 2009, reports that IR-A can penetrate epidermal and
dermal layers and reach subcutaneous tissues without noticeably
increasing skin temperature. IR-B and IR-C are absorbed mostly in
epidermal layers and cause increased skin temperature. Cho further
states that repeated exposure to near IR has been shown to cause
decreased type I procollagen expression and decreased expression of
TGF- 1, 2 and .beta.3 in human skin in vivo. Cho also reports that
exposure to IR radiation can impact expression of MMP-1, cause
degradation of extracellular proteins such as collagen and elastin
fibers, decreased fibrillin production, elastosis, angiogenesis,
and so on.
[0004] For at least these reasons it is desirable to create topical
products that protect keratin surfaces such as skin or hair from IR
radiation either alone or in conjunction with UV radiation
protective effects.
[0005] Indium tin oxide ("ITO") is a ternary composition of indium,
tin and oxygen in varying proportions. It is typically seen as a
formulation of about 74% Indium, 18% oxygen, and 8% Sn by weight.
Indium tin compositions can be present without oxygen, in which
case they are referred to as "oxygen deficient ITO". ITO is used to
coat industrial substrates such as windows, windshields, or other
substrates where it is desired to reflect IR light. For example, it
is used to assist in defrosting of aircraft windshields upon
application of voltage. One advantage of ITO coated substrates is
that they are transparent at wavelengths corresponding to visible
light, and opaque in the IR and UV ranges. ITO is not known for use
in consumer products, and particularly not in topical consumer
products for protecting skin against IR radiation, or in
compositions that are designed to protect skin from both UV and IR
radiation.
[0006] It is an object of the invention to provide particles coated
with ITO that have IR radiation protective effects when formulated
into products for topical application to keratin surfaces. In one
embodiment of the invention the particles coated with ITO are
chemical or physical sunscreens in particulate form. In this case
the particles exhibit both UV and IR protective effects. The ITO
coated particles protect keratin surfaces from the adverse effects
of IR radiation from all sources, but particularly solar IR
radiation.
[0007] It is a further object of the invention to provide a topical
composition for protecting keratin surfaces from the adverse
effects of IR radiation containing ITO coated particles in an
amount sufficient to protect against IR radiation.
[0008] It is a further object of the invention to provide a topical
composition for protecting keratin surfaces from the adverse
effects of UV and IR radiation containing chemical or physical
sunscreen particles coated with ITO.
[0009] It is a further object of the invention to provide a method
for protecting keratin surfaces from the adverse effects of IR
radiation exposure by topically applying a composition containing
ITO coated particles.
[0010] It is a further object of the invention to provide a method
for protecting keratin surfaces from the adverse effects of UV and
IR radiation by topically applying a composition containing ITO
coated chemical or physical sunscreen particles.
BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION
[0011] The invention is directed to a solid or hollow particle
ranging from 0.001 to 200 microns in diameter coated with Indium
Tin Oxide ("ITO"). The particle may be a pigment or powder. In one
embodiment the particle may be a sunscreen such as zinc or titanium
dioxide.
[0012] The invention is also directed to a topical composition
containing a solid or hollow particle coated with ITO. The topical
composition preferably blocks IR radiation, and in one preferred
embodiment the particle coated with ITO is sunscreen particle and
blocks both UV radiation due to the sunscreen particle with the ITO
film coating blocking the IR radiation.
[0013] The invention is also directed to a topical UV protective
composition containing a particle coated with ITO.
[0014] The invention is also directed to a method for protecting
skin against solar IR radiation by topically applying a composition
comprising at least one ITO coated particle.
[0015] The invention is also directed to a method for protecting
skin from solar UV and IR radiation by topically applying a
composition comprising at least one chemical or physical sunscreen
in particulate form which is coated with ITO.
DETAILED DESCRIPTION
Definitions
[0016] All documents referred to herein are incorporated by
reference in their entirety unless otherwise stated.
[0017] All percentages referred to herein are percentages by weight
unless otherwise indicated.
[0018] The term "block" means, with respect to IR or UV radiation,
that the radiation is blocked either in whole or in part from
causing undesirable effects in the keratin surface either by
physically blocking the radiation from reaching the surface,
absorbing the radiation when it reaches the surface, or reflecting
the radiation when it reaches the keratin surface.
[0019] The term "keratin surfaces" means skin, hair, or nails.
[0020] The term "topical" when used to refer to the composition
means any composition that is applied to a keratin surface such as
skin, hair, or nails.
Indium Tin Oxide
[0021] The ITO used in the invention may be oxygen deficient ITO,
or a ternary mixture of indium, tin, and oxygen. The amount of each
element may vary from 40-95% Indium, 5-35% oxygen, and 1 to 15%
tin. One preferred form of ITO is a ternary mixture of 74% Indium,
18% oxygen, and 8% tin that may be identified by CAS No.
50926-11-9. ITO is most often in the form of a pale yellow to
greenish powder depending on the concentration of SnO.sub.2
present. The melting point ranges from 1500-1950.degree. C. It is
referred to as a transparent conducting oxide ("TCO") because of
its electrical conductivity and optical transparency in the visible
spectrum. Yet ITO is opaque in both the UV and IR wavelength
ranges. ITO particles may be found in the nano range (7 to 75 nm)
or standard fine grain powder particle sizes ranging from 0.1 to 15
microns, or agglomerated particles usually having a particle size
greater than 30 microns, for example from 15 to 50 microns. The
particles may be in the form of dispersions in water or organic
solvents including mono- or dihydric alcohols such as ethanol,
isopropanol, butylene glycol, propylene glycol, and the like.
Examples include a dispersion of 30% ITO in isopropanol containing
90% Indium Oxide and 10% tin oxide or dispersions of 20% ITO in
water. Other suitable forms include particles of various sizes such
as nanoparticles (around 18 nm, or sizes less than 50 nm in
diameter), particles of about 40-50 microns or more particularly
having 43 microns, also referred to as -325 mesh. Other sources
include Indium Corporation of America in Utica, N.Y. where ITO in
particle sizes ranging from 0.01 to 50 microns is available.
Particles
[0022] In the preferred embodiment of the invention the ITO is
coated onto particles used in cosmetics. Such particles may be
pigments, powders, or combinations thereof. These particles may
range from 0.001 to 200 microns in diameter. All, or a portion of
the particles may be coated with ITO. The particles coated with ITO
may include those set forth below:
[0023] A. Powders
[0024] The particles may be colored or non-colored (for example
white) non-pigmented powders. Suitable non-pigmented powders
include zinc oxide or titanium dioxide (which may be micronized,
e.g. having a particle size of from about 0.01 to 1 micron and are
generally known for having SPF properties, particularly UVA),
bismuth oxychloride, titanated mica, fumed silica, spherical
silica, polymethylmethacrylate, micronized teflon, boron nitride,
acrylate copolymers, aluminum silicate, aluminum starch
octenylsuccinate, bentonite, calcium silicate, cellulose, chalk,
corn starch, diatomaceous earth, fuller's earth, glyceryl starch,
hectorite, hydrated silica, kaolin, magnesium aluminum silicate,
magnesium trisilicate, maltodextrin, montmorillonite,
microcrystalline cellulose, rice starch, silica, talc, mica,
titanium dioxide, zinc laurate, zinc myristate, zinc rosinate,
alumina, attapulgite, calcium carbonate, calcium silicate, dextran,
kaolin, nylon, silica silylate, silk powder, sericite, soy flour,
tin oxide, titanium hydroxide, trimagnesium phosphate, walnut shell
powder, or mixtures thereof. The above mentioned powders may be
also be surface treated with lecithin, amino acids, mineral oil,
silicone, or various other agents either alone or in combination,
which coat the powder surface and render the particles more
lipophilic in nature. Particularly preferred powders are silica
such as that sold by Kiosi Corporation under the tradename
Monoveil.RTM. which is a fine white powder having a particle size
of 8 to 18 microns. This silica is in the form of a multi-lamellar
silica membrane on the top of a skeletal internal silica structure.
Another suitable silica is sold by Kobo Products under the trade
name MSS-500W having an average particle size of 10 to 14
microns.
[0025] B. Pigments
[0026] The particles may comprise various organic and/or inorganic
pigments. The organic pigments are generally various aromatic types
including azo, indigoid, triphenylmethane, anthroquinone, and
xanthine dyes which are designated as D&C and FD&C blues,
browns, greens, oranges, reds, yellows, etc. Organic pigments
generally consist of insoluble metallic salts of certified color
additives, referred to as the Lakes. Inorganic pigments include
iron oxides, ultramarines, chromium, chromium hydroxide colors, and
mixtures thereof. Iron oxides of red, blue, yellow, brown, black,
and mixtures thereof are suitable.
[0027] Composite particles may be suitable as well. Examples
include spherical particles having a gaseous center sold under the
trade name Expancel.RTM. 551, 820, 920, and DE having INCI names
acrylonitrile/vinyl chloride/isobutene copolymer,
acrylonitrile/vinylidene chloride/isobutene copolymer, acrylic
acid/acrylonitrogens copolymer, isobutene/copolymer of
acrylonitrile/methacrylate/acrylate copolymer, isobutene/copolymer
of acrylonitrile/methacrylate/acrylate/water, and so on. If
desired, these particles may be impregnated with other particles
such as chemical or physical sunscreens according to the method set
forth in Sojka, et al, U.S. Patent Application No.
US2007/0071978.
[0028] Also suitable are particles referred to as Sunspheres.RTM.
which are polymeric particles from styrene/acrylates copolymer sold
by Dow Chemical Corporation. The styrene/acrylates copolymer
particles have a particle size ranging from about 300 to 500
nanometers, more particularly about 400 nanometers. They may be
coated with ingredients such as nonionic surfactants or
glycols.
The Coating Method
[0029] The ITO may be coated on the particles in a variety of ways.
It is preferred that the coating process be one that is operable at
temperatures typically used in the preparation of cosmetic
ingredients and formulations, which preferably range from room
temperature to 350.degree. C. In particular, in one embodiment the
temperature at which the ITO coating is applied most desirably does
not exceed 300.degree. C.
[0030] One process for coating ITO onto the particles involves
simply mixing ITO power with the particles to form mixtures of ITO
and particles. This may be accomplished by physically combining the
particles desired for treatment with the ITO. Ratios include from 5
to 80 parts particles to 80 to 5 parts ITO.
[0031] Another process for coating ITO onto the particles may
accomplished by a process referred to as physical vapor deposition
("PVD") or sputter deposition which is a form of PVD. PVD uses
physical forces to apply layers or coatings to the particulates. In
PVD the desired particles may be prepared by drying them in an oven
at sufficient temperature to remove any residual water. The drying
may take place at temperatures ranging from 70 to 300.degree. C.,
or at about 125.degree. C. for a period of time to evaporate
moisture. Depending on how much moisture is in the particles, this
time can range from 1 to 24 hours. The dry particles are then put
into a vacuum chamber and air is removed. A background pressure
ranging from 10.sup.-6 to 10.sup.-4 torr may be used. A sputtering
gas is then introduced. One example of a suitable gas may halogens
such as argon or carbon tetrafluoride, and the like. The sputtering
gas is added in an amount sufficient to obtain the desired
background pressure in the system, which may range from 1 to 20
millitorr. The ITO is then introduced into the chamber.
Alternatively, the indium and tin can be added and oxygen
introduced into the chamber, however in this case the amount of
oxygen present in the final product is not always consistent. In
one embodiment the vacuum sputtering system may be operated in DC
magnetron mode. The particles are tumbled slowly in the sputtering
target with time and power chosen to produce coatings that are
thick enough to provide particles that have the desired particle
size. Sputtering times can range widely, from 2 to 25 hours with
power levels also varying from 1 to 10 kilowatts. When the target
is ITO it takes place in an oxygen free environment. After
sputtering is concluded, if desired, the particles can be heated in
air to dry. PVD is an effective and efficient coating process and
provides a continuous, uniform, and strongly adherent coating of
the ITO on the treated particles. PVD systems suitable for sputter
coatings may be purchased from PVD Products, Wilmington, Mass.
Examples of such systems include Magnetron Sputter Deposition
Systems that may be in rectangular or cylindrical configurations
and options for sputtering up or sputtering down. The chambers may
be vacuum or cryogenic.
[0032] Also suitable as a coating method are chemical vapor
deposition ("CVD") which is formation of a thin film on a substrate
by chemical reaction of vapor phase precursors. The reaction occurs
in the gas phase and on the substrate. CVD deposition of ITO films
onto particles may be achieved by reacting indium metal acetate
precursors such as indium acetate and tin acetate with the
particles desired to be coated according to processes as disclosed
in Maruyama and Tabata, Indium-Tin Oxide Thin Films Prepared by
Chemical Vapor Deposition from Metal Acetates, Japanese Journal of
Applied Physics, Volume 29, Part 2, No. 2 (1990).
[0033] It is also possible to coat particles using thermal methods,
although in this case the particle to be coated must not be
degraded upon exposure to the high temperatures required to deposit
the coating. These temperatures may range from 300 to 1,000.degree.
C. In this application the ITO is heated with the particle in a
high temperature furnace which causes the ITO to deposit on the
surface of the particle. The temperature typically ranges from 1000
to 1200.degree. C.
[0034] Various processes for depositing ITO onto particles may be
found in Martin Friz and Friederich Waibel, Coating Materials,
Springer Series in Optical Sciences, 2003, pages 105-130.
[0035] Pulsed laser deposition in high vacuum chamber which may be
accompanied by reactive and ion-assisted sputtering is also a
suitable deposition method.
[0036] Another suitable process is electrospinning sol-gel prepared
ITO coatings on substrates followed by thermal processing as set
forth in Zhang, et al., Optical Materials 26 (2004) pages 47-55. In
this process sol-gel ITO is prepared and spin coating is used to
apply the coating to the particles followed by heat treatment at
temperatures ranging from 175 to 600.degree. C.
[0037] Most preferred is where the ITO is coated onto particles
using atomic layer deposition ("ALD"). Examples of ALD are set
forth in Atomic Layer Deposition: An Overview, Chem. Rev. 2010,
110, pages 111-131 and Elam et al., Journal of Physical Chemistery,
Vol 112, pages 1938-1945, 2008, U.S. Pat. No. 9,196,901; and U.S.
Pat. No. 6,613,383 "Atomic Layer Controlled Deposition on Particle
Surfaces", U.S. Pat. No. 6,713,177, "Insulating and Functionalizing
Fine Metal Containing Particles with Conformal Ultra-thin Films;
U.S. Pat. No. 6,913,827, "Nanocoated Primary Particles and Method
for their Manufacture"; U.S. Pat. No. 7,132,697, "Nanomaterials for
Quantum Tunneling Viarstors; U.S. Pat. No. 7,396,862, "Dental
Composite Filler Particles"; U.S. Pat. No. 8,133,531, "Titanium
Dioxide Particles Coated via an Atomic Layer Deposition Process;
U.S. Pat. Nos. 8,163,336 and 8,637,156, "Methods for Producing
Coated Phosphors and Host Material Particles Using Atomic Layer
Deposition methods; and U.S. Pat. No. 8,187,731, "Metal Ferrite
Spinel Energy Storage Devices and Methods for Making and Using
Same, all of which are hereby incorporated by reference in their
entirety. For example, ITO films can be applied by ALD using
In.sub.2O.sub.3 and SnO.sub.2 in a viscous flow reactor with
nitrogen gas and at a set mass flow rate and a pressure of about 1
Torr. In particular, using alternating InCp/O.sub.3
(cyclopentadienyl indium) exposures for In.sub.2O.sub.3 and TDMASn
(tetrakis(dimethylamino)tin)/H.sub.2O.sub.2 exposures for SnO.sub.2
and adjusting the relative number of In.sub.2O.sub.3 and SnO.sub.2
ALD cycles enables deposit of ITO films with more precision and
control having a suitable thickness that can range from about 30-50
nanometers. A typical pattern of introducing reactants in an ALD
reaction scheme involving two reagents takes place as follows: (1)
introduce purge or fluidizing gas, (2) introduce the first reagent
or a mixture of the first reagent and the carrier gas, (3)
introduce the purge or fluidizing gas or pull a high vacuum to
remove excess quantities of the first reagent as well as the
reaction by-products, (4) introduce the second reagent or mixture
of the carrier gas and the second reagent, (5) introduce the purge
or fluidizing gas or pull a high vacuum to remove excess quantities
of the second reagent and reaction by-products, (6) repeat steps
2-5 until the desired coating thickness is obtained. Suitable
reaction temperatures may range from 250 to 1000K and pressure is
typically subatmospheric. The preferred temperature is one at which
the substrate is thermally stable. Preferred is where the coatings
on the particles range from 10 to 100 Angstroms in thickness.
[0038] The ITO may be coated onto the particles with a suitable
process that does not degrade the particles and is otherwise
compatible with the ITO, the particle and the other ingredients
used in the process. The coating may range in thickness from 0.1 to
1000 nanometers, or from 0.5 to 25% of the total particle by
weight.
The Compositions
[0039] The ITO coated particles may be incorporated into a variety
of compositions that may be in the anhydrous, emulsion, gel, or
solution form. The ITO particles may range from 0.1 to 60%,
preferably from about 0.5 to 50%, more preferably from about 1 to
40% by weight of the total composition.
[0040] The topical composition may contain other ingredients
including but not limited to those set forth below:
[0041] A. Oils
[0042] In the event the compositions of the invention are in
anhydrous or emulsion form, the composition will comprise an oil
phase. Oily ingredients are desirable for the skin moisturizing and
protective properties and may be present in amounts ranging from
0.1 to 80%. Suitable oils include silicones, esters, vegetable
oils, synthetic oils, including but not limited to those set forth
herein. The oils may be volatile or nonvolatile, and are preferably
in the form of a pourable liquid at room temperature. The term
"volatile" means that the oil has a measurable vapor pressure, or a
vapor pressure of at least about 2 mm. of mercury at 20.degree. C.
The term "nonvolatile" means that the oil has a vapor pressure of
less than about 2 mm. of mercury at 20.degree. C.
[0043] Suitable volatile oils generally have a viscosity ranging
from about 0.5 to 5 centistokes 25.degree. C. and include linear
silicones, cyclic silicones, paraffinic hydrocarbons, or mixtures
thereof. Examples include linear, cyclic, or branched volatile
silicones available from commercial sources such as Dow Corning
Corporation and General Electric. The Dow Corning linear volatile
silicones are sold under the tradenames Dow Corning 244, 245, 344,
and 200 fluids. These fluids include hexamethyldisiloxane
(viscosity 0.65 centistokes (abbreviated cst)),
octamethyltrisiloxane (1.0 cst), decamethyltetrasiloxane (1.5 cst),
dodecamethylpentasiloxane (2 cst) and mixtures thereof, with all
viscosity measurements being at 25.degree. C. Branched volatile
silicones include methyl trimethicone which may be purchased from
Shin-Etsu Silicones under the tradename TMF-1.5, having a viscosity
of 1.5 centistokes at 25.degree. C.
[0044] Also suitable are volatile straight or branched chain
paraffinic hydrocarbons having 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14,
15, 16, 17, 18, 19, or 20 carbon atoms, more preferably 8 to 16
carbon atoms. Suitable hydrocarbons include pentane, hexane,
heptane, decane, dodecane, tetradecane, tridecane, and C.sub.8-20
isoparaffins as disclosed in U.S. Pat. Nos. 3,439,088 and
3,818,105, both of which are hereby incorporated by reference.
[0045] A variety of nonvolatile oils are also suitable and may have
a viscosity of greater than about 5 to 10 centistokes at 25.degree.
C., and may range in viscosity up to about 1,000,000 centipoise at
25.degree. C. Examples of nonvolatile oils include, but are not
limited to esters, in the mono-, di-, or triester form including
hexyl laurate, butyl isostearate, hexadecyl isostearate, cetyl
palmitate, isostearyl neopentanoate, stearyl heptanoate, isostearyl
isononanoate, steary lactate, stearyl octanoate, stearyl stearate,
isononyl isononanoate, diisotearyl malate, neopentyl glycol
dioctanoate, dibutyl sebacate, dicetearyl dimer dilinoleate,
dicetyl adipate, diisocetyl adipate, diisononyl adipate,
diisostearyl dimer dilinoleate, diisostearyl fumarate, diisostearyl
malate, dioctyl malate, arachidonic, citric, or behenic acids, such
as triarachidin, tributyl citrate, triisostearyl citrate, tri
C.sub.12-13 alkyl citrate, tricaprylin, tricaprylyl citrate,
tridecyl behenate, trioctyldodecyl citrate, tridecyl behenate; or
tridecyl cocoate, tridecyl isononanoate, and so on.
[0046] Esters suitable for use in the composition are further
described in the C.T.F.A. Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and
Handbook, Eleventh Edition, 2006, under the classification of
"Esters".
[0047] Hydrocarbons are also suitable and include paraffinic
hydrocarbons and olefins, preferably those having greater than
about 20 carbon atoms. Examples of such hydrocarbon oils include
C.sub.24-28 olefins, C.sub.30-45 olefins, C.sub.20-40 isoparaffins,
hydrogenated polyisobutene, polyisobutene, polydecene, hydrogenated
polydecene, mineral oil, pentahydrosqualene, squalene, squalane,
and mixtures thereof. In one preferred embodiment such hydrocarbons
have a molecular weight ranging from about 300 to 1000 Daltons.
[0048] Synthetic or naturally occurring glyceryl esters of fatty
acids, or triglycerides, are also suitable for use in the
compositions. Both vegetable and animal sources may be used.
Examples of such oils include castor oil, lanolin oil, C.sub.10-18
triglycerides, caprylic/capric/triglycerides, sweet almond oil,
apricot kernel oil, sesame oil, camelina sativa oil, tamanu seed
oil, coconut oil, corn oil, cottonseed oil, linseed oil, ink oil,
olive oil, palm oil, illipe butter, rapeseed oil, soybean oil,
grapeseed oil, sunflower seed oil, walnut oil, and the like.
[0049] Also suitable are synthetic or semi-synthetic glyceryl
esters, such as fatty acid mono-, di-, and triglycerides which are
natural fats or oils that have been modified, for example, mono-,
di- or triesters of polyols such as glycerin. In an example, a
fatty (C.sub.12-22) carboxylic acid is reacted with one or more
repeating glyceryl groups. glyceryl stearate, diglyceryl
diiosostearate, polyglyceryl-3 isostearate, polyglyceryl-4
isostearate, polyglyceryl-6 ricinoleate, glyceryl dioleate,
glyceryl diisotearate, glyceryl tetraisostearate, glyceryl
trioctanoate, diglyceryl distearate, glyceryl linoleate, glyceryl
myristate, glyceryl isostearate, PEG castor oils, PEG glyceryl
oleates, PEG glyceryl stearates, PEG glyceryl tallowates, and so
on.
[0050] Nonvolatile silicone oils, both water soluble and water
insoluble, are also suitable for use in the composition. Such
silicones preferably have a viscosity ranging from about greater
than 5 to 800,000 cst, preferably 20 to 200,000 cst at 25.degree.
C. Examples include dimethicone, phenyl dimethicone, diphenyl
dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, or trimethylsiloxyphenyl
dimethicone. Other examples include alkyl dimethicones such as
cetyl dimethicone, and the like wherein at Phenyl trimethicone can
be purchased from Dow Corning Corporation under the tradename 556
Fluid. Trimethylsiloxyphenyl dimethicone can be purchased from
Wacker-Chemie under the tradename PDM-1000. Cetyl dimethicone, also
referred to as a liquid silicone wax, may be purchased from Dow
Corning as Fluid 2502, or from DeGussa Care & Surface
Specialties under the trade names Abil Wax 9801, or 9814.
[0051] In the case where the compositions are in the form of
aqueous solutions, dispersions or emulsions, in addition to water
the aqueous phase may contain one or more aqueous phase structuring
agents, that is, an agent that increases the viscosity or thickens,
the aqueous phase of the composition. Suitable ranges of aqueous
phase structuring agent, if present, are from about 0.01 to 30%,
preferably from about 0.1 to 20%, more preferably from about 0.5 to
15% by weight of the total composition. Examples of such agents
include various acrylate based thickening agents, natural or
synthetic gums, polysaccharides such as agar, agarose, alicaligenes
polysaccharides, algin, alginic acid, acacia gum, amylopectin,
chitin, dextran, cassia gum, cellulose gum, gelatin, gellan gum,
hyaluronic acid, hydroxyethyl cellulose, methyl cellulose, ethyl
cellulose, pectin, sclerotium gum, xanthan gum, pectin, trehelose,
gelatin, and so on.
[0052] One type of suitable acrylate based polymeric thickener is
sold by Clariant under the Aristoflex trademark such as Aristoflex
AVC, which is ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP copolymer;
Aristoflex AVL which is the same polymer has found in AVC dispersed
in mixture containing caprylic/capric triglyceride, trilaureth-4,
and polyglyceryl-2 sesquiisostearate; or Aristoflex HMB which is
ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate/beheneth-25 methacrylate
crosspolymer, and the like.
[0053] Also suitable as the aqueous phase thickening agents are
various polyethylene glycols (PEG) derivatives where the degree of
polymerization ranges from 1,000 to 200,000. Such ingredients are
indicated by the designation "PEG" followed by the degree of
polymerization in thousands, such as PEG-45M, which means PEG
having 45,000 repeating ethylene oxide units. Examples of suitable
PEG derivatives include PEG 2M, 5M, 7M, 9M, 14M, 20M, 23M, 25M,
45M, 65M, 90M, 115M, 160M, 180M, and the like.
[0054] In the case where the composition is anhydrous or in the
form of an emulsion, it may be desirable to include oil phase
structuring agents. The term "oil phase structuring agent" means an
ingredient or combination of ingredients, soluble or dispersible in
the oil phase, which will increase the viscosity, or structure, the
oil phase. The structuring agent itself may be present in the
liquid, semi-solid, or solid form. Suggested ranges of structuring
agent are from about 0.01 to 20%, preferably from about 0.05 to
15%, more preferably from about 0.1-10% by weight of the total
composition. Suitable oil phase structuring agents include those
that are silicone based or organic based.
[0055] Silicone based structuring agents include silicone
elastomers, silicone gums, silicone waxes, linear silicones having
a degree of polymerization that provides the silicone with a degree
of viscosity such that when incorporated into the cosmetic
composition it is capable of increasing the viscosity of the oil
phase.
[0056] Silicone elastomers include vinyl dimethicone/methicone
silesquioxane crosspolymers like Shin-Etsu's KSP-100, KSP-101,
KSP-102, KSP-103, KSP-104, KSP-105, hybrid silicone powders that
contain a fluoroalkyl group like Shin-Etsu's KSP-200 which is a
fluoro-silicone elastomer, and hybrid silicone powders that contain
a phenyl group such as Shin-Etsu's KSP-300, which is a phenyl
substituted silicone elastomer; and Dow Corning's DC 9506. Examples
of silicone elastomer powders dispersed in a silicone compatible
vehicle include dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone crosspolymers
supplied by a variety of suppliers including Dow Corning
Corporation under the tradenames 9040 or 9041, GE Silicones under
the tradename SFE 839, or Shin-Etsu Silicones under the tradenames
KSG-15, 16, 18. KSG-15 has the CTFA name
cyclopentasiloxane/dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer.
KSG-18 has the NCI name phenyl trimethicone/dimethicone/phenyl
vinyl dimethicone crossoplymer. Silicone elastomers may also be
purchased from Grant Industries under the Gransil trademark. Also
suitable are silicone elastomers having long chain alkyl
substitutions such as lauryl dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone
crosspolymers supplied by Shin Etsu under the tradenames KSG-31,
KSG-32, KSG-41, KSG-42, KSG-43, and KSG-44. Cross-linked
organopolysiloxane elastomers useful in the present invention and
processes for making them are further described in U.S. Pat. No.
4,970,252 to Sakuta et al., issued Nov. 13, 1990; U.S. Pat. No.
5,760,116 to Kilgour et al., issued Jun. 2, 1998; U.S. Pat. No.
5,654,362 to Schulz, Jr. et al. issued Aug. 5, 1997; and Japanese
Patent Application JP 61-18708, assigned to Pola Kasei Kogyo KK,
each of which are herein incorporated by reference in its
entirety.
[0057] Also suitable are silicone gums. The term "gum" means a
silicone polymer having a degree of polymerization sufficient to
provide a silicone having a gum-like texture. In certain cases the
silicone polymer forming the gum may be crosslinked. The silicone
gum typically has a viscosity ranging from about 500,000 to 100
million cst at 25.degree. C., preferably from about 600,000 to 20
million, more preferably from about 600,000 to 12 million cst. All
ranges mentioned herein include all subranges, e.g. 550,000;
925,000; 3.5 million.
[0058] Such silicone gums may be purchased in pure form from a
variety of silicone manufacturers including Wacker-Chemie or Dow
Corning, and the like. Such silicone gums include those sold by
Wacker-Belsil under the trade names CM3092, Wacker-Belsil 1000, or
Wacker-Belsil DM 3096. A silicone gum where X is OH, also referred
to as dimethiconol, is available from Dow Corning Corporation under
the trade name 1401. The silicone gum may also be purchased in the
form of a solution or dispersion in a silicone compatible vehicle
such as volatile or nonvolatile silicone. An example of such a
mixture may be purchased from Barnet Silicones under the HL-88
tradename, having the INCI name dimethicone.
[0059] Silicone waxes are also suitable and include alkyl silicone
waxes which are semi-solids or solids at room temperature. The term
"alkyl silicone wax" means a polydimethylsiloxane having a
substituted long chain alkyl (such as C16 to 30) that confers a
semi-solid or solid property to the siloxane. Examples of such
silicone waxes include stearyl dimethicone, which may be purchased
from DeGussa Care & Surface Specialties under the tradename
Abil Wax 9800 or from Dow Corning under the tradename 2503. Another
example is bis-stearyl dimethicone, which may be purchased from
Gransil Industries under the tradename Gransil A-18, or behenyl
dimethicone, behenoxy dimethicone.
[0060] Natural or synthetic waxes such as animal, vegetable, or
mineral waxes may be used. Preferably such waxes will have a higher
melting point such as from about 35 to 150.degree. C., more
preferably from about 65 to 100.degree. C. Examples of such waxes
include waxes made by Fischer-Tropsch synthesis, such as
polyethylene or synthetic wax; or various vegetable waxes such as
bayberry, candelilla, ozokerite, acacia, beeswax, ceresin, cetyl
esters, flower wax, citrus wax, carnauba wax, jojoba wax, japan
wax, polyethylene, microcrystalline, rice bran, lanolin wax, mink,
montan, bayberry, ouricury, ozokerite, palm kernel wax, paraffin,
avocado wax, apple wax, shellac wax, clary wax, spent grain wax,
grape wax, and polyalkylene glycol derivatives thereof such as
PEG6-20 beeswax, or PEG-12 carnauba wax; or fatty acids or fatty
alcohols, including esters thereof, such as hydroxystearic acids
(for example 12-hydroxy stearic acid), tristearin, tribehenin, and
so on.
[0061] Synthetic montmorillonite minerals such as hectorite,
bentonite, and quaternized derivatives thereof, which are obtained
by reacting the minerals with a quaternary ammonium compound, such
as stearalkonium bentonite, hectorites, quaternized hectorites such
as Quatemium-18 hectorite, attapulgite, carbonates such as
propylene carbonate, bentones, and the like are suitable as well as
silicas, silicates, silica silylate, and alkali metal or alkaline
earth metal derivatives thereof. These silicas and silicates are
generally found in the particulate form and include silica, silica
silylate, magnesium aluminum silicate, and the like.
[0062] The composition may contain one or more organic surfactants,
especially if in the emulsion form. However, such surfactants may
be used if the compositions are anhydrous also, and will assist in
dispersing ingredients that have polarity, for example pigments.
Such surfactants may be silicone or organic based. The surfactants
will aid in the formation of stable emulsions of either the
water-in-oil or oil-in-water form. If present, the surfactant may
range from about 0.001 to 30%, preferably from about 0.005 to 25%,
more preferably from about 0.1 to 20% by weight of the total
composition.
[0063] The composition may comprise one or more nonionic organic
surfactants. Suitable nonionic surfactants include alkoxylated
alcohols, or ethers, formed by the reaction of an alcohol with an
alkylene oxide, usually ethylene or propylene oxide. Preferably the
alcohol is either a fatty alcohol having 6 to 30 carbon atoms.
Examples of such ingredients include Steareth 2-100, which is
formed by the reaction of stearyl alcohol and ethylene oxide and
the number of ethylene oxide units ranges from 2 to 100; Beheneth
5-30 which is formed by the reaction of behenyl alcohol and
ethylene oxide where the number of repeating ethylene oxide units
is 5 to 30; Ceteareth 2-100, formed by the reaction of a mixture of
cetyl and stearyl alcohol with ethylene oxide, where the number of
repeating ethylene oxide units in the molecule is 2 to 100; Ceteth
1-45 which is formed by the reaction of cetyl alcohol and ethylene
oxide, and the number of repeating ethylene oxide units is 1 to 45,
and so on.
[0064] Other alkoxylated alcohols are formed by the reaction of
fatty acids and mono-, di- or polyhydric alcohols with an alkylene
oxide. For example, the reaction products of C.sub.6-30 fatty
carboxylic acids and polyhydric alcohols which are monosaccharides
such as glucose, galactose, methyl glucose, and the like, with an
alkoxylated alcohol. Examples include polymeric alkylene glycols
reacted with glyceryl fatty acid esters such as PEG glyceryl
oleates, PEG glyceryl stearate; or PEG polyhydroxyalkanotes such as
PEG dipolyhydroxystearate wherein the number of repeating ethylene
glycol units ranges from 3 to 1000.
[0065] Other suitable nonionic surfactants include alkoxylated
sorbitan and alkoxylated sorbitan derivatives. For example,
alkoxylation, in particular ethoxylation of sorbitan provides
polyalkoxylated sorbitan derivatives. Esterification of
polyalkoxylated sorbitan provides sorbitan esters such as the
polysorbates. For example, the polyalkyoxylated sorbitan can be
esterified with C6-30, preferably C12-22 fatty acids. Examples of
such ingredients include Polysorbates 20-85, sorbitan oleate,
sorbitan sesquioleate, sorbitan palmitate, sorbitan
sesquiisostearate, sorbitan stearate, and so on.
[0066] It may also be desirable to include one or more humectants
in the composition. If present, such humectants may range from
about 0.001 to 25%, preferably from about 0.005 to 20%, more
preferably from about 0.1 to 15% by weight of the total
composition. Examples of suitable humectants include glycols,
sugars, and the like. Suitable glycols are in monomeric or
polymeric form and include polyethylene and polypropylene glycols
such as PEG 4-200, which are polyethylene glycols having from 4 to
200 repeating ethylene oxide units; as well as C.sub.1-6 alkylene
glycols such as propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene
glycol, and the like. Suitable sugars, some of which are also
polyhydric alcohols, are also suitable humectants. Examples of such
sugars include glucose, fructose, honey, hydrogenated honey,
inositol, maltose, mannitol, maltitol, sorbitol, sucrose, xylitol,
xylose, and so on. Also suitable is urea. Preferably, the
humectants used in the composition of the invention are C.sub.1-6,
preferably C.sub.2-4 alkylene glycols, most particularly butylene
glycol.
[0067] It may be desirable to include one or more botanical
extracts in the compositions. If so, suggested ranges are from
about 0.0001 to 10%, preferably about 0.0005 to 8%, more preferably
about 0.001 to 5% by weight of the total composition. Suitable
botanical extracts include extracts from plants (herbs, roots,
flowers, fruits, seeds) such as flowers, fruits, vegetables, and so
on, including yeast ferment extract, Padina Pavonica extract,
thermus thermophilis ferment extract, Camelina sativa seed oil,
Boswellia serrata extract, olive extract, Aribodopsis Thaliana
extract, Acacia Dealbata extract, Acer Saccharinum (sugar maple),
acidopholus, acorns, aesculus, Alicaligenes polysaccharides,
agaricus, agave, agrimonia, algae, aloe, citrus, brassica,
cinnamon, orange, apple, blueberry, cranberry, peach, pear, lemon,
lime, pea, seaweed, caffeine, green tea, chamomile, willowbark,
mulberry, poppy, and those set forth on pages 1646 through 1660 of
the CTFA Cosmetic Ingredient Handbook, Eighth Edition, Volume 2.
Further specific examples include, but are not limited to,
Glycyrrhiza glabra, Salix nigra, Macrocycstis pyrifera, Pyrus
malus, Saxifraga sarmentosa, Vitis vinifera, Morus nigra,
Scutellaria baicalensis, Anthemis nobilis, Salvia sclarea,
Rosmarinus officianalis, Citrus medica limonum, Panax ginseng,
Siegesbeckia orientalis, Fructus mume, Ascophyllum nodosum, Bifida
ferment lysate, Glycine soja extract, Beta vulgaris, Haberlea
rhodopensis, Polygonum cuspidatum, Citrus aurantium dulcis,
Selaginella tamariscina, Humulus lupulus, Citrus reticulata peel,
Punica granatum, Asparagopsis, Curcuma longa, Menyanthes
trifoliata, Helianthus annuus, Hordeum vulgare, Cucumis sativus,
Evernia prunastri, Evernia furfuracea, and mixtures thereof.
[0068] It may also be desirable to include one or more sunscreens
in the compositions of the invention. Such sunscreens include
chemical UVA or UVB sunscreens or physical sunscreens in the
particulate form.
[0069] The term "UVA sunscreen" means a chemical compound that
blocks UV radiation in the wavelength range of about 320 to 400 nm.
Preferred UVA sunscreens are dibenzoylmethane compounds including
4-methyldibenzoylmethane, 2-methyldibenzoylmethane,
4-isopropyldibenzoylmethane, 4-tert-butyldibenzoylmethane,
2,4-dimethyldibenzoylmethane, 2,5-dimethyldibenzoylmethane,
4,4'diisopropylbenzoylmethane,
4-tert-butyl-4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane,
4,4'-diisopropylbenzoylmethane,
2-methyl-5-isopropyl-4'-methoxydibenzoymethane,
2-methyl-5-tert-butyl-4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane, and so on.
Particularly preferred is 4-tert-butyl-4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane,
also referred to as Avobenzone. Avobenzone is commercial available
from Givaudan-Roure under the trademark Parsol 1789, and Merck
& Co. under the tradename Eusolex 9020.
[0070] Other types of UVA sunscreens include dicamphor sulfonic
acid derivatives, such as ecamsule, a sunscreen sold under the
trade name Mexoryl.TM., which is terephthalylidene dicamphor
sulfonic acid.
[0071] The composition may contain from about 0.001-20%, preferably
0.005-5%, more preferably about 0.005-3% by weight of the
composition of UVA sunscreen. In the preferred embodiment of the
invention the UVA sunscreen is Avobenzone, and it is present at not
greater than about 3% by weight of the total composition.
[0072] The term "UVB sunscreen" means a compound that blocks UV
radiation in the wavelength range of from about 290 to 320 nm. A
variety of UVB chemical sunscreens exist including
alpha-cyano-beta,beta-diphenyl acrylic acid esters as set forth in
U.S. Pat. No. 3,215,724, which is hereby incorporated by reference
in its entirety. One particular example of an
alpha-cyano-beta,beta-diphenyl acrylic acid ester is Octocrylene,
which is 2-ethylhexyl 2-cyano-3,3-diphenylacrylate. In certain
cases the composition may contain no more than about 10% by weight
of the total composition of octocrylene. Suitable amounts range
from about 0.001-10% by weight. Octocrylene may be purchased from
BASF under the tradename Uvinul N-539.
[0073] Other suitable sunscreens include benzylidene camphor
derivatives as set forth in U.S. Pat. No. 3,781,417, which is
hereby incorporated by reference in its entirety. Such benzylidene
camphor derivatives have the general formula:
##STR00001##
wherein R is p-tolyl or styryl, preferably styryl. Particularly
preferred is 4-methylbenzylidene camphor, which is a lipid soluble
UVB sunscreen compound sold under the tradename Eusolex 6300 by
Merck.
[0074] Also suitable are cinnamate derivatives having the general
formula:
##STR00002##
wherein R and R.sub.1 are each independently a C.sub.1-20 straight
or branched chain alkyl. Preferred is where R is methyl and R.sub.1
is a branched chain C.sub.1-10, preferably C.sub.8 alkyl. The
preferred compound is ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, also referred to
as Octoxinate or octyl methoxycinnamate. The compound may be
purchased from Givaudan Corporation under the tradename Parsol MCX,
or BASF under the tradename Uvinul MC 80. Also suitable are mono-,
di-, and triethanolamine derivatives of such methoxy cinnamates
including diethanolamine methoxycinnamate. Cinoxate, the aromatic
ether derivative of the above compound is also acceptable. If
present, the Cinoxate should be found at no more than about 3% by
weight of the total composition.
[0075] Also suitable as UVB screening agents are various
benzophenone derivatives having the general formula:
##STR00003##
wherein R through R.sub.9 are each independently H, OH, NaO.sub.3S,
SO.sub.3H, SO.sub.3Na, Cl, R'', OR'' where R'' is C.sub.1-20
straight or branched chain alkyl Examples of such compounds include
Benzophenone 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, and 12.
Particularly preferred is where the benzophenone derivative is
Benzophenone 3 (also referred to as Oxybenzone), Benzophenone 4
(also referred to as Sulisobenzone), Benzophenone 5 (Sulisobenzone
Sodium), and the like. Most preferred is Benzophenone 3.
[0076] Also suitable are certain menthyl salicylate derivatives
having the general formula:
##STR00004##
wherein R.sub.1, R.sub.2, R.sub.3, and R.sub.4 are each
independently H, OH, NH.sub.2, or C.sub.1-20 straight or branched
chain alkyl. Particularly preferred is where R.sub.1, R.sub.2, and
R.sub.3 are methyl and R.sub.4 is hydroxyl or NH.sub.2, the
compound having the name homomenthyl salicylate (also known as
Homosalate) or menthyl anthranilate. Homosalate is available
commercially from Merck under the tradename Eusolex HMS and menthyl
anthranilate is commercially available from Haarmann & Reimer
under the tradename Heliopan. If present, the Homosalate should be
found at no more than about 15% by weight of the total
composition.
[0077] Various amino benzoic acid derivatives are suitable UVB
absorbers including those having the general formula:
##STR00005##
wherein R.sub.1, R.sub.2, and R.sub.3 are each independently H,
C.sub.1-20 straight or branched chain alkyl which may be
substituted with one or more hydroxy groups. Particularly preferred
is wherein R.sub.1 is H or C.sub.1-8 straight or branched alkyl,
and R.sub.2 and R.sub.3 are H, or C.sub.1-8 straight or branched
chain alkyl. Particularly preferred are PABA, ethyl hexyl dimethyl
PABA (Padimate 0), ethyldihydroxypropyl PABA, and the like. If
present Padimate 0 should be found at no more than about 8% by
weight of the total composition.
[0078] Salicylate derivatives are also acceptable UVB absorbers.
Such compounds have the general formula: wherein R is a straight or
branched chain alkyl, including derivatives of the above compound
formed from mono-, di-, or triethanolamines. Particular preferred
are octyl salicylate, TEA-salicylate, DEA-salicylate, and mixtures
thereof.
Generally, the amount of the UVB chemical sunscreen present may
range from about 0.001-45%, preferably 0.005-40%, more preferably
about 0.01-35% by weight of the total composition.
[0079] Also suitable are certain esters of 2-phenyl ethanol and
benzoic acid. One example is phenyethyl benzoate, which is sold
under the tradename X-Tend 226.RTM., by International Specialty
Products.
[0080] If desired, the compositions of the invention may be
formulated to have a certain SPF (sun protective factor) values
ranging from about 1-50, preferably about 2-45, most preferably
about 5-30. Calculation of SPF values is well known in the art.
[0081] The compositions of the invention may contain vitamins
and/or coenzymes, as well as antioxidants. If so, 0.001-10%,
preferably 0.01-8%, more preferably 0.05-5% by weight of the total
composition is suggested. Suitable vitamins include ascorbic acid
and derivatives thereof such as ascorbyl palmitate, tetrahexydecyl
ascorbate, and so on; the B vitamins such as thiamine, riboflavin,
pyridoxin, niacin, niacinamide, nicotinic acid, nicotinic acid
dinucleotide, and so on, as well as coenzymes such as thiamine
pyrophoshate, flavin adenine dinucleotide, folic acid, pyridoxal
phosphate, tetrahydrofolic acid, and so on. Also Vitamin A and
derivatives thereof are suitable. Examples are retinyl palmitate,
retinol, retinoic acid, as well as Vitamin A in the form of beta
carotene. Also suitable is Vitamin E and derivatives thereof such
as Vitamin E acetate, nicotinate, or other esters thereof. In
addition, Vitamins D and K are suitable.
[0082] It may be desirable to include one or more film forming
ingredients in the cosmetic compositions of the invention. Suitable
film formers are ingredients that contribute to formation of a film
on the keratinous surface. If present, such film formers may range
from about 0.01 to 50%, preferably from about 0.1 to 40%, more
preferably from about 0.5 to 35% by weight of the total
composition. Suitable silicone resins include
trimethylsiloxysilicate, polymethylsilsesquioxane, dimethicone
silylate, and mixtures thereof.
[0083] It may also be desirable to incorporate one or more DNA
repair enzymes into the composition of the invention. Suggested
ranges are from about 0.00001 to about 35%, preferably from about
0.00005 to about 30%, more preferably from about 0.0001 to about
25% of one or more DNA repair enzymes.
[0084] DNA repair enzymes as disclosed in U.S. Pat. Nos. 5,077,211;
5,190,762; 5,272,079; and 5,296,231, all of which are hereby
incorporated by reference in their entirety, are suitable for use
in the compositions and method of the invention. One example of
such a DNA repair enzyme may be purchased from AGI Dermatics under
the trade name Roxisomes.RTM., and has the INCI name Arabidopsis
Thaliana extract. It may be present alone or in admixture with
lecithin and water. This DNA repair enzyme is known to be effective
in repairing 8-oxo-diGuanine base mutation damage.
[0085] Another type of DNA repair enzyme that may be used is one
that is known to be effective in repairing 06-methyl guanine base
mutation damage. It is sold by AGI/Dermatics under the tradename
Adasomes.RTM., and has the INCI name Lactobacillus ferment, which
may be added to the composition of the invention by itself or in
admixture with lecithin and water.
[0086] Another type of DNA repair enzyme that may be used is one
that is known to be effective in repairing T-T dimers. The enzymes
are present in mixtures of biological or botanical materials.
Examples of such ingredients are sold by AGI/Dermatics under the
tradenames Ultrasomes.RTM. or Photosomes.RTM.. Ultrasomes.RTM.
comprises a mixture of Micrococcus lysate (an end product of the
controlled lysis of a species of micrococcus), lecithin, and water.
Photosomes.RTM. comprises a mixture of plankton extract (which is
the extract of a biomass which includes enzymes from one or more of
the following organisms: thalassoplankton, green micro-algae,
diatoms, greenish-blue and nitrogen-fixing seaweed), water, and
lecithin.
[0087] Another type of DNA repair enzyme may be a component of
various inactivated bacterial lysates such as Bifida lysate or
Bifida ferment lysate, the latter a lysate from Bifido bacteria
which contains the metabolic products and cytoplasmic fractions
when Bifido bacteria are cultured, inactivated and then
disintegrated. This material has the INCI name Bifida Ferment
Lysate.
[0088] The DNA repair enzymes may be present as components of
botanical extracts, bacterial lysates, biological materials, and
the like. For example, botanical extracts may contain DNA repair
enzymes.
[0089] The compositions of the invention may be found in a variety
of forms, such as anhydrous compositions, aqueous based solutions,
serums, gels, skin creams or lotions, or color cosmetic
compositions such as foundation makeup, mascara, lip color, blush,
eyeshadow, and the like. Emulsions comprise from about 0.1 to 95%,
preferably from about 1 to 90%, more preferably from about 2 to 85%
water; and from about 0.1 to 95%, preferably from about 1 to 90%,
more preferably from about 2 to 85% of one or more oils.
[0090] Suitable serums or gels will generally comprise from about
1-99% water, and optionally from about 0.001-30% of an aqueous
phase thickening agent. The other ingredients mentioned herein may
be present in the percentage ranges set forth. In the case where
the cynaodiphenylacrylate is lipophilic it will be dispersed in the
aqueous phase.
[0091] Typical skin creams or lotions comprise from about 5-98%
water, 1-85% oil, and from about 0.1 to 20% of one or more
surfactants. Preferably the surfactants are nonionic and may be in
the form of oxyalkylenated organosiloxanes or organic nonionic
surfactants.
[0092] Typical color cosmetic compositions such as foundations,
blush, eyeshadow and the like will preferably contain from about
5-98% water, 1-85% oil, and from about 0.1 to 20% of one or more
surfactants in addition to from about 0.1 to 65% of particulates
that are pigments or a combination of pigments and powders.
[0093] Shampoos and conditioners contain large amounts of water,
ranging from 10-95%, as well as surfactants from 0.01 to 20% and,
if desired, oils or other conditioning ingredients.
Example 1
[0094] Sunscreen grade TiO.sub.2 particles having a diameter
ranging from 0.01 to 10 microns and ZnO particles of the same
diameter may be coated with ITO by treating 500 mg of TiO.sub.2
with ITO comprised of 90% InO and 10% SnO using a Magnetron Sputter
Deposition System from PVD Products, Waltham, Mass. The TiO.sub.2
particles are tumbled in a chamber while being sputter coated with
the ITO using argon as the sputtering gas at a pressure of 3
millitorr and a power of 3 kilowatts, for about 150 minutes. No
oxygen is added. The resulting particles are dried in an oven at
300.degree. C. for 20 minutes.
Example 1A
[0095] Sunscreen grade TiO.sub.2 particles having a diameter
ranging from 0.01 to 10 microns and ZnO particles of the same
diameter may be coated with ITO using ALD. About 500 mg of
TiO.sub.2 may be treated using a viscous flow reactor comprised of
a circular stainless steel flow tube with an inside diameter of
about 5 cm, which is suitable for holding particles. High purity
nitrogen carrier gas is continuously passed through the flow tube
at a mass flow rate of about 360 sccm and a pressure of 1 Torr. A
constant reactor temperature is maintained by temperature
controllers connected to resistive heaters. Four separate heating
zones are used to ensure that temperature remains consistent along
the length of the flow tube. ALD of SnO.sub.2 is performed by using
alternating exposures to TDMASn and H.sub.2O.sub.2. In.sub.2O.sub.3
ALD was performed using alternating exposures to InCp and ozone.
The ozone is produced using a commercial ozone generator using a
feed of high purity oxygen at a suitable flow rate. TDMASn and InCp
were maintained in separate stainless teel containers at 40.degree.
C. and the tubing that connected the bubblers to the ALD reactor is
heated to 150.degree. C. to prevent condensation. High purity
nitrogen gas is sent through the bubblers during the reaction and
is diverted after the reaction. An ALD timing sequence is followed
t1-t2-t3-t4 where t1 is the exposure time for the first precursor,
t2 the second precursor, and so on with t4 being the purge time
following exposure to the second precursor with units in seconds.
Suitable timings are 2-4-2-2 for In.sub.2O.sub.3 and 1-5-1-5 for
SnO.sub.2. ITO ALD may be achieved by alternating cycles between
InCp/03 for In2O3 and TDMASn/H.sub.2O.sub.2 cycles for SnO2 ALD.
The film composition is controlled by adjusting the % of SnO.sub.2
cycles that are substituted for In.sub.2O.sub.3 cycles. Film
deposition is measured using SEM.
Example 1B
[0096] The ALD procedure of Example 1 was used to coat silica
particles (Monoveil.RTM. sold by Kiosi Corporation, Bohemia, N.Y.),
500 grams, with ITO. More specifically the particles were treated
using ALD in a fluidized bed reactor as noted in Example 1
according to the procedure set forth in Journal of Physical
Chemistry C., 2008, Vol. 112, pages 1938-1945. The particle sizes
of the silica ranged from 8 to 18 microns in diameter. The
thickness of the ITO coatings on the particles ranged from 0.5 to
15 nanometers, and specifically the thicknesses were 1, 3, and 10
nm.
Example 2
[0097] Red iron oxide, particle size about 15-30 microns are coated
with ITO by treating 500 mg of red iron oxide with ITO comprised of
90% InO and 10% SnO. The iron oxide particles are tumbled in a
chamber while being sputter coated with the ITO using argon as the
sputtering gas at a pressure of 3 millitorr and a power of 3
kilowatts, for about 150 minutes. No oxygen is added. The resulting
particles are dried in an oven at 300.degree. C. for 20
minutes.
[0098] The particles prepared in Examples 1 and 2 may be tested for
transmittance of IR radiation using a NIR spectrophotometer having
a range of 190 to 2700 nm. Jasco, Inc., V-670 model.
Example 3
[0099] The particles of Example 1 are incorporated into a sunscreen
composition as follows:
TABLE-US-00001 Ingredient Wt % Water QS QS Methyl trimethicone
12.60 12.60 Butylene glycol 6.00 6.00 Zinc oxide (treated as in
Example 1) 5.00 5.00 Ethylhexylmethoxycrylene 5.00 5.00 C12-15
alkyl benzoate 4.35 4.35 ITO coated titanium dioxide (treated
Example 1) 3.88 3.1 Dimethicone 3.79 3.70 Neopentylglycol
diethylhexanoate 3.46 3.46 Beeswax 3.00 3.00 Dipentaerythrityl
tripolyhydroxystearate 2.00 Isododecane 2.18 Glycerin 2.00 2.00
Lauryl PEG-9 polydimethylsiloxyethyl dimethicone 2.00 2.00 Ethyl
macadamiate 2.00 2.00 Cetyl PEG/PPG 10/1 dimethicone 1.00 1.00
Dimethicone/dimethicone PEG/PPG 15 crosspolymer 0.50 0.50
Isostearic acid 0.40 0.40 Trisiloxane 0.36 Trimethylsiloxysilicate
0.33 0.33 Acrylates copolymer 0.30 Polyhydroxystearic acid 0.25
0.25 Xanthan gum 0.25 0.25 Dimethicone silylate 0.24
Disteardimonium hectorite 0.24 Dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone
crosspolymer 0.15 0.15 Lecithin 0.01 0.01
[0100] The compositions were prepared by combining the ingredients
well and mixing to form an emulsion.
Example 4
[0101] An anhydrous product with SPF is prepared as follows:
TABLE-US-00002 Ingredients w/w % Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate 7.50
Polyethylene 6.00 Heptyl undecylenate 6.00 Ethylhexylmethoxycrylene
6.00 Bis-diglyeryl polyacyladipate-2 5.29 Homosalate 5.00
Mica/Aluminum Dimyristate/ 5.00 triethoxcaprylylsilane/ disodium
stearoyl glutamate ITO coated mica/methylmethacrylate 5.00
crosspolymer Ethylhexyl salicylate 5.00 Microcrystalline wax 4.50
Simmondsia Chinensis (jojoba) seed oil 4.00 Butyloctyl salicylate
4.00 Glyceryl hydrogenated rosinate 4.00 Oleic/linoleic/linolenic
polyglyceride 4.00 HDI/trimethylol hexyllactone 3.50
crosspolymer/silica Avobenzone 3.00 Polyglyceryl-2 triisostearate
2.81 Octocrylene 2.79 Synthetic wax/synthetic beeswax/ 2.40 stearic
acid Ethyl macadamiate 2.00 Butyrospermum parkii (Shea Butter) 2.00
Beeswax 1.80 Methyl glucose sesquistearate 1.50 Dipentaerythrityl
hexahydroxystearate/ 1.49 hexastearate/hexarosinate Glyceryl
dilaurate 1.00 VP/Eicosene 1.00 Isononyl isononanoate QS
Example 5
[0102] Skin treatment oil-in-water (1), and
oil-in-water-in-silicone oil (2), creams may be prepared as
follows:
TABLE-US-00003 w/w % Ingredient 1 2 Water QS QS Hydroxyethyl urea
0.50 Hyaluronic acid 9.00 9.00 Creatine 0.05 Sucrose 0.50 Caffeine
0.20 Caprylyl glycol 0.40 0.28 Caprylic/capric triglyceride/cetyl
alcohol/ 4.00 C12-20 acid PEG-8 ester PEG-100 stearate 1.20 C12-20
acid PEG-8 ester 4.96 Caprylic/capric triglyceride 0.55 Behenyl
alcohol 0.50 Coco caprylate caprate 5.10 Sweet almond oil 0.10
Dimethicone, 100 cst. 2.50 Ethylhexylmethoxycrylene 2.00 2.00
Dimethicone, 6 cst 5.00 Dimethicone (silicone gum/20 cst
dimethicone blend) 8.00 Dimethicone/polysilicone 11 6.00
Dimethicone/dimethicone PEG-10/15 crosspolymer 1.00 Lauryl PEG-9
polydimethylsiloxyethyl dimethicone 1.00 Wheat bran extract/olive
extract 0.20 0.20 Cholesterol 0.20 Linoleic acid 0.20
Cholesterol/potassium sulfate 0.20 Theobroma grandiflorum seed
butter 1.40 Lauryl PCA 0.01 1.00 Dimethicone 1.50 Glycerin 2.00
Butylene glycol 1.00 Hexylene glycol 0.05 ITO coated mica/titanium
dioxide 1.00 0.75 ITO coated mica/titanium dioxide/ 0.50
triethoxycaprylyl silane Pearl powder 0.001 Silica 0.50 N-acetyl
glucosamine 1.00 1.00 Water/purified Aribodopsis Thaliana 0.50 1.00
extract/lecithin Aqueous solution acetyl hexapeptide-8 1.00 1.00
Yeast ferment extract 1.00 1.00 Water/lecithin/micrococcus lysate
0.50 0.50 Butylene glycol 0.50 Boswellia Serrata extract 0.05
Calophyllum Inophyllum (tamanu) seed oil 0.05 Sodium
acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate 1.00 1.00
copolymer/hydrogenated polydecene/laureth-8 Ammonium
acrylodimethyltaurate/VP copolymer 0.70
[0103] The composition is prepared by combining the water phase and
oil phase ingredients separately, then emulsifying to form an
emulsion.
Example 6
[0104] Emulsion foundation makeup compositions are prepared as
follows:
TABLE-US-00004 Ingredient w/w % Cyclomethicone 16.90
Polysilicone-11 5.00 Cyclomethicone/dimethiconol 1.00 Dimethicone
copolyol 1.50 Sorbitan sesquioleate 1.50 Phenyl trimethicone 10.00
Dimethicone 10.00 ITO treated red Iron Oxide 0.50 treated with
methicone ITO treated yellow iron oxide 1.22 treated with methicone
ITO treated black iron oxide 0.13 treated with methicone ITO
treated titanium dioxide 8.06 coated with methicone Water QS
Butylene glycol 5.00 Xanthan gum 0.10 Magnesium sulfate 1.00
Laureth-7 0.25
[0105] The water, oil and pigment phases are separately prepared by
low shear mixing. The phases are combined with high shear blending
to form a foundation makeup composition.
[0106] While the invention has been described in connection with
the preferred embodiment, it is not intended to limit the scope of
the invention to the particular form set forth but, on the
contrary, it is intended to cover such alternatives, modifications,
and equivalents as may be included within the spirit and scope of
the invention as defined by the appended claims.
* * * * *