U.S. patent application number 15/685918 was filed with the patent office on 2018-06-07 for composition comprising an alkoxysilane and a modified starch, and cosmetic use thereof.
The applicant listed for this patent is L'OREAL. Invention is credited to Claire BOURDIN, Isabelle LEGUILLOU.
Application Number | 20180154189 15/685918 |
Document ID | / |
Family ID | 44549878 |
Filed Date | 2018-06-07 |
United States Patent
Application |
20180154189 |
Kind Code |
A1 |
BOURDIN; Claire ; et
al. |
June 7, 2018 |
COMPOSITION COMPRISING AN ALKOXYSILANE AND A MODIFIED STARCH, AND
COSMETIC USE THEREOF
Abstract
The invention relates to a composition, especially a cosmetic
composition, comprising (i) one or more alkoxysilanes, and (ii) one
or more starches modified with an acid or an acid derivative. The
invention also relates to a cosmetic process for treating keratin
materials with this composition, and also to the use of this
composition for caring for and/or shaping keratin materials.
Inventors: |
BOURDIN; Claire;
(Levallois-Perret, FR) ; LEGUILLOU; Isabelle;
(Clichy, FR) |
|
Applicant: |
Name |
City |
State |
Country |
Type |
L'OREAL |
Paris |
|
FR |
|
|
Family ID: |
44549878 |
Appl. No.: |
15/685918 |
Filed: |
August 24, 2017 |
Related U.S. Patent Documents
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Application
Number |
Filing Date |
Patent Number |
|
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14122453 |
Nov 26, 2013 |
9776020 |
|
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PCT/EP2012/059928 |
May 28, 2012 |
|
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15685918 |
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61528624 |
Aug 29, 2011 |
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Current U.S.
Class: |
1/1 |
Current CPC
Class: |
A61Q 5/12 20130101; A61Q
5/06 20130101; A61K 8/585 20130101; A61K 8/732 20130101; A61Q 5/00
20130101 |
International
Class: |
A61Q 5/00 20060101
A61Q005/00; A61Q 5/12 20060101 A61Q005/12; A61K 8/58 20060101
A61K008/58; A61K 8/73 20060101 A61K008/73; A61Q 5/06 20060101
A61Q005/06 |
Foreign Application Data
Date |
Code |
Application Number |
May 27, 2011 |
FR |
1154646 |
Claims
1.-15. (canceled)
16. A cosmetic composition comprising: (i) at least one
alkoxysilane, and (ii) at least one starch modified with an acid or
an acid derivative.
17. The cosmetic composition according to claim 16, wherein the at
least one alkoxysilane is chosen from the following compounds:
compounds of formula (I): ##STR00029## wherein: R.sub.4 represents
a halogen or a group OR.sub.a or R.sub.1a; R.sub.5 represents a
halogen or a group OR.sub.b or R.sub.2a; R.sub.6 represents a
halogen or a group OR.sub.c or R.sub.3a; R.sub.1 and R.sub.2
represent, independently of each other, a hydrogen atom or a
saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon-based
group, R.sub.3, R.sub.a, R.sub.b, R.sub.c, R.sub.1a, R.sub.2a and
R.sub.3a represent, independently of each other, a saturated or
unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon-based group, optionally
bearing additional chemical groups chosen from acid or amine
groups, wherein R.sub.a, R.sub.b and R.sub.c may also be chosen
from hydrogen, and further wherein at least two of the groups
R.sub.4, R.sub.5 and R.sub.6 are different from the groups
R.sub.1a, R.sub.2a and R.sub.3a. compounds of formula (II):
(R.sub.21O)x(R.sub.22)ySi--(B)p-[NR.sub.23--(B.sub.a)pa]q-[NR.sub.23a--(B-
.sub.b)pb]qa-Si(R.sub.22a)ya(OR.sub.21a)xa wherein: R.sub.21,
R.sub.22, R.sub.21a and R.sub.22a represent, independently of each
other, a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched
hydrocarbon-based chain, optionally containing at least one
heteroatom, optionally interrupted or substituted with at least one
group chosen from ether, ester, amine, amide, carboxyl, hydroxyl
and carbonyl groups, R.sub.23 and R.sub.23a each independently
represent a hydrogen atom or a saturated or unsaturated, linear or
branched hydrocarbon-based chain, optionally containing at least
one heteroatom, optionally interrupted or substituted with at least
one ether, C.sub.1-C.sub.20 alcohol ester, amine, carboxyl,
C.sub.6-C.sub.30 aryl, hydroxyl or carbonyl group, or a
heterocyclic or non-heterocyclic aromatic ring, optionally
substituted with at least one C.sub.1-C.sub.20 alcohol ester,
amine, amide, carboxyl, hydroxyl, carbonyl or acyl group, x is an
integer ranging from 1 to 3, y=3-x, xa is an integer ranging from 1
to 3, ya=3-xa, p=0 or 1, pa=0 or 1, pb=0 or 1, q=0 or 1, qa=0 or 1,
wherein at least one of q or qa is not zero, B, B.sub.a and B.sub.b
each independently represent a linear or branched divalent
C.sub.1-C.sub.20 alkylene radical; compounds of formula (III):
##STR00030## wherein: R.sub.24 and R.sub.25 represent,
independently of each other, a saturated or unsaturated, linear or
branched hydrocarbon-based chain, optionally containing at least
one heteroatom, optionally interrupted or substituted with at least
one group chosen from ether, ester, amine, amide, carboxyl,
hydroxyl and carbonyl groups, e=2 or 3; f=3-e; g=0 or 1; j=0 or 1;
E and E.sub.a each independently represent a linear or branched
divalent C.sub.1-C.sub.20 alkylene radical, R.sub.26 and R.sub.27
each independently represent a hydrogen atom or a saturated or
unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon-based chain, optionally
containing at least one heteroatom, optionally interrupted or
substituted with at least one ether, C.sub.1-C.sub.20 alcohol
ester, amine, carboxyl, C.sub.6-C.sub.30 aryl, hydroxyl or carbonyl
group, or a heterocyclic or non-heterocyclic aromatic ring,
optionally substituted with at least one C.sub.1-C.sub.20 alcohol
ester, amine, amide, carboxyl, hydroxyl, carbonyl or acyl group,
R.sub.26 and R.sub.27 preferably representing a hydrogen atom, i is
an integer ranging from 0 to 4, h is 0 or 1, the i groups R.sub.28
each independently represent a hydrogen atom or a saturated or
unsaturated, linear or branched, C.sub.1-C.sub.10 hydrocarbon-based
chain, optionally containing at least one heteroatom, optionally
interrupted or substituted with at least one ether,
C.sub.1-C.sub.20 alcohol ester, amine, carboxyl, C.sub.6-C.sub.30
aryl, hydroxyl or carbonyl group, or a heterocyclic or
non-heterocyclic aromatic ring, optionally substituted with at
least one C.sub.1-C.sub.20 alcohol ester, amine, amide, carboxyl,
hydroxyl, carbonyl or acyl group.
18. The cosmetic composition according to claim 17, wherein the
alkoxysilane is represented by: compounds of formula (I), wherein
at least one of R.sub.1 and R.sub.2 represents a hydrogen atom; or
compounds of formula (II), wherein at least one of R.sub.23 and
R.sub.23a represents a hydrogen atom.
19. The cosmetic composition according to claim 16, wherein the
alkoxysilane is represented by formula (I) below: ##STR00031##
wherein: R.sub.1 and R.sub.2, independently of each other, are
chosen from hydrogen and ethyl, propyl and aminoethyl groups;
R.sub.3 is chosen from ethyl, propyl and methylphenethyl groups;
R.sub.4, R.sub.5 and R.sub.6, independently of each other, are
chosen from methyl, methoxy and ethoxy groups.
20. The cosmetic composition according to claim 16, wherein the
alkoxysilane is chosen from alkoxysilanes comprising at least one
amine function.
21. The cosmetic composition according to claim 20, wherein the at
least one amine function is primary or secondary.
22. The cosmetic composition according to claim 16, wherein the
alkoxysilane is chosen from 3-aminopropyltriethoxysilane,
3-aminopropylmethyldiethoxysilane,
N-(2-aminoethyl)-3-aminopropyltriethoxysilane and
3-(2-aminoethylamino)propyl-methyldiethoxysilane.
23. The cosmetic composition according to claim 16, wherein the
alkoxysilane is 3-aminopropyltriethoxysilane.
24. The cosmetic composition according to claim 16, wherein the
alkoxysilane is present in the composition in an amount ranging
from about 0.05% to about 20% by weight relative to the total
weight of the cosmetic composition.
25. The cosmetic composition according to claim 16, wherein the
alkoxysilane is present in the composition in an amount ranging
from about 0.2% to about 5% by weight relative to the total weight
of the cosmetic composition.
26. The cosmetic composition according to claim 16, wherein the
starch is chosen from corn, rice, cassava, barley, potato, wheat,
sorghum and pea starches.
27. The cosmetic composition according to claim 16, wherein the
acid or the acid derivative is chosen from mineral or organic
acids, salts thereof, organic acid chlorides, organic acid
anhydrides, organic acid esters and mineral oxychlorides.
28. The cosmetic composition according to claim 16, wherein the
starch modified with an acid derivative is chosen from starch
phosphates and starch acetates.
29. The cosmetic composition according to claim 16, wherein the
starch modified with an acid derivative represents from about 0.01%
to about 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the cosmetic
composition.
30. The cosmetic composition according to claim 16, wherein the
starch modified with an acid derivative represents from about 0.5%
to about 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the cosmetic
composition.
31. A process for the nontherapeutic cosmetic treatment of keratin
fibers, comprising: applying to said keratin fibers a composition
comprising: (i) at least one alkoxysilane, and (ii) at least one
starch modified with an acid or an acid derivative.
32. The process according to claim 31, further comprising: leaving
the composition on said keratin fibers after applying the
composition to said keratin fibers.
33. The process according to claim 31, further comprising: rinsing
the composition from said keratin fibers after applying the
composition to said keratin fibers.
34. The process according to claim 31, wherein the applying of the
composition takes place in the presence of heating between about
40.degree. C. and about 220.degree. C.
35. A process for caring for and/or shaping keratin fibers chosen
from human hair, comprising: applying to said keratin fibers a
composition comprising: (i) at least one alkoxysilane, and (ii) at
least one starch modified with an acid or an acid derivative.
Description
CROSS REFERENCE TO RELATED APPLICATIONS
[0001] This is a continuation of U.S. application Ser. No.
14/122,453, filed on Nov. 26, 2013, which claims priority to
Application No. PCT/EP2012/059928, filed internationally on May 28,
2012, which claims priority to U.S. Provisional Application No.
61/528,624, filed on Aug. 29, 2011 and French Application No.
1154646, filed on May 27, 2011, all of which are incorporated by
reference herein in their entireties.
[0002] The present invention relates to a composition, especially a
cosmetic composition, containing at least one alkoxysilane and at
least one starch modified with an acid or an acid derivative.
[0003] Keratin fibres may suffer attack of diverse origins, for
instance mechanical attack (disentangling or brushing), or chemical
attack (dyeing or permanent waving). This attack has an impact on
the qualities of the fibre and will lead to difficult disentangling
at the time of washing the hair, and to a non-smooth, dry and
uneven surface when the hair is dry. The hair is difficult to style
and lacks softness.
[0004] The conditioning compositions that are currently proposed
comprise essentially cationic surfactants, fatty substances,
silicones and cationic polymers. They make it possible to
facilitate disentangling by softening the keratin fibre and provide
sheen, softness, and uniformity to dried hair. However, these
effects do not withstand shampooing, and the application of these
compositions is essential at each washing step in order to treat
and facilitate the disentangling of the hair.
[0005] Moreover, it is found that consumers are increasingly in
search of care compositions that are not only capable of
appropriately conditioning the hair, but also capable of affording
satisfactory styling effects.
[0006] In particular, people with fine or curly hair are generally
in search of care products that afford styling effects that give
mass, body and volume to fine hair and curl definition to curly
hair.
[0007] It has already been proposed especially in FR 2 783 164 to
use alkoxysilanes to give the hair styling properties. However,
aminosilane-based compositions have problems of stability on
storage and also incompatibilities with components widely used in
cosmetics such as certain classes of surfactants and of
conditioning agents. Consequently, compositions of this type are
difficult to thicken.
[0008] Furthermore, the results obtained are not completely
satisfactory either as regards the cosmetic properties themselves
or their durability.
[0009] There thus exists a need to have available more effective
conditioning and styling compositions.
[0010] The Applicant Company has discovered, surprisingly, that
compositions comprising at least one ionic starch and at least one
alkoxysilane make it possible to solve the problems raised
above.
[0011] More specifically, one subject of the invention is a
composition, especially a cosmetic composition comprising:
[0012] (i) one or more alkoxysilanes, and
[0013] (ii) one or more starches modified with an acid or an acid
derivative.
[0014] Such a composition shows satisfactory thickening and
furthermore is stable over time. It is easy to distribute over the
hair, easy to remove with water and leads to shiny, smooth, soft
hair that is easy to disentangle. The composition affords
densification to the head of hair (gives the impression of a larger
number of hairs), body, volume and ease of shaping, in particular
for fine hair. Finally, the compositions according to the invention
also make it possible to give curly hair styling effects,
especially in terms of curl definition and control.
[0015] The styling and cosmetic properties last over time, even
after shampooing several times.
[0016] A further subject of the invention is a method for the
nontherapeutic cosmetic treatment of keratin materials, in
particular the hair, comprising the application, to said materials,
of a composition as described above.
[0017] A subject of the invention is also the use of a composition
according to the invention for caring for and shaping keratin
materials, especially keratin fibres and in particular human
keratin fibres such as the hair.
[0018] The composition according to the invention comprises one or
more alkoxysilanes.
[0019] The alkoxysilanes present in the composition according to
the invention are preferably chosen from organosilanes comprising
one, two or three silicon atoms, preferably one or two silicon
atoms.
[0020] The alkoxysilanes present in the composition according to
the invention may comprise two or more hydrolysable or hydroxyl
groups per molecule. The hydrolysable groups are preferably alkoxy,
aryloxy or halogen groups. They may optionally comprise other
chemical functions, such as salified or non-salified amine,
salified or non-salified carboxylic acid, salified or non-salified
sulfonic acid, salified or non-salified phosphoric acid, salified
or non-salified sulfuric acid, and aldehyde, polyalcohol or
polyether functions.
[0021] Preferably, the alkoxysilanes of the invention comprise one
or more amine or aldehyde functions.
[0022] Even more preferably, the alkoxysilanes of the invention
comprise one or more amine functions.
[0023] When the alkoxysilane present in the composition according
to the invention comprises one or more amine functions, they are
preferably primary amines (--NH2) and/or secondary amines
(--NHR).
[0024] According to one particular embodiment, the alkoxysilane(s)
present in the composition according to the invention are chosen
from the compounds of formula (I):
##STR00001##
[0025] in which:
[0026] R.sub.4 represents a halogen or a group OR.sub.a or
R.sub.1a;
[0027] R.sub.5 represents a halogen or a group OR.sub.b or
R.sub.2a;
[0028] R.sub.6 represents a halogen or a group OR.sub.c or
R.sub.3a;
[0029] R.sub.1 and R.sub.2 represent, independently of each other,
a hydrogen atom, a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched
hydrocarbon-based group, optionally substituted with an amine
function, which itself may bear a substitution with a saturated or
unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon-based group, possibly
bearing an amine function, preferably R.sub.1 or R.sub.2
necessarily denoting a hydrogen atom,
[0030] R.sub.3, R.sub.a, R.sub.b, R.sub.c, R.sub.1a, R.sub.2a and
R.sub.3a represent, independently of each other, a saturated or
unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon-based group, optionally
bearing additional chemical groups such as acid or amine groups,
R.sub.a, R.sub.b and R.sub.c also possibly denoting hydrogen, and
at least two of the groups R.sub.4, R.sub.5 and R.sub.6 being
different from the groups R.sub.1a, R.sub.2a and R.sub.3a.
Preferably, at least two of the groups R.sub.a, R.sub.b and R.sub.c
are other than hydrogen.
[0031] Preferably, the groups R.sub.1, R.sub.2, R.sub.a, R.sub.1a,
R.sub.2a, R.sub.3a, R.sub.b and R.sub.c are chosen from
C.sub.1-C.sub.12 alkyl, C.sub.5-C.sub.14 aryl,
(C.sub.1-C.sub.8)alkyl(C.sub.5-C.sub.14)aryl and
(C.sub.5-C.sub.14)aryl(C.sub.1-C.sub.8)alkyl radicals.
[0032] Preferably, the group R.sub.3 is chosen from
C.sub.1-C.sub.12 alkylene radicals, optionally substituted with an
amino, C.sub.5-C.sub.14 arylene,
(C.sub.1-C.sub.8)alkylene(C.sub.5-C.sub.14)arylene or
(C.sub.5-C.sub.14)arylene(C.sub.1-C.sub.8)alkylene group.
[0033] According to one particular embodiment, the alkoxysilane(s)
corresponding to formula (I) are preferably
3-aminopropyltriethoxysilane, 3-aminopropylmethyldiethoxysilane,
N-(2-aminoethyl)-3-aminopropyltriethoxysilane and
3-(2-aminoethylamino)propylmethyldiethoxysilane.
[0034] According to another particular embodiment, the
alkoxysilane(s) used according to the invention are chosen from the
compounds of formula (II):
(R.sub.21O)x(R.sub.22)ySi--(B)p-[NR.sub.23--(B.sub.a)pa]q-[NR.sub.23a--(-
B.sub.b)pb]qa-Si(R.sub.22a)ya(OR.sub.21a)xa
[0035] in which: R.sub.21, R.sub.22, R.sub.21a and R.sub.22a
represent, independently of each other, a saturated or unsaturated,
linear or branched hydrocarbon-based chain, optionally containing
one or more heteroatoms, optionally interrupted or substituted with
one or more groups chosen from ether, ester, amine, amide,
carboxyl, hydroxyl and carbonyl groups,
[0036] x is an integer ranging from 1 to 3, y=3-x, xa is an integer
ranging from 1 to 3, ya=3-xa, p=0 or 1, pa=0 or 1, pb=0 or 1, q=0
or 1, qa=0 or 1, it being understood that at least q or qa is other
than zero,
[0037] B, B.sub.a and B.sub.b each independently represent a linear
or branched divalent C.sub.1-C.sub.20 alkylene radical.
[0038] R.sub.23 and R.sub.23a each independently represent a
hydrogen atom or a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched
hydrocarbon-based chain, optionally containing one or more
heteroatoms, optionally interrupted or substituted with one or more
ether, C.sub.1-C.sub.20 alcohol ester, amine, carboxyl,
C.sub.6-C.sub.30 aryl, hydroxyl or carbonyl groups, or a
heterocyclic or non-heterocyclic aromatic ring, optionally
substituted with one or more C.sub.1-C.sub.20 alcohol ester, amine,
amide, carboxyl, hydroxyl, carbonyl or acyl groups.
[0039] Preferably, R.sub.23 and R.sub.23a represent a hydrogen
atom.
[0040] As explained previously, R.sub.21, R.sub.22, R.sub.21a and
R.sub.22a each independently represent a hydrocarbon-based chain.
The term "hydrocarbon-based chain" preferably means a chain
comprising from 1 to 30 and preferably 1 to 10 carbon atoms.
[0041] Preferably, R.sub.21=R.sub.21a; R.sub.22=R.sub.22a; x=xa;
y=ya; p=pa; B=B.sub.a; q=1 and qa=0.
[0042] The alkoxysilane(s) of formula (II) may also have the
following characteristics, taken alone or in combination: [0043]
R.sub.21, R.sub.22, R.sub.21a and R.sub.22a, which may be identical
or different, represent a C.sub.1-C.sub.4 alkyl, [0044] p=pa=1;
[0045] B and B.sub.a, which may be identical or different,
represent a linear C.sub.1-C.sub.4 alkylene.
[0046] For example, the alkoxysilane(s) are chosen from
bis[3-(triethoxysilyl)propyl]amine of formula
(CH.sub.3CH.sub.2O).sub.3-Si(CH.sub.2).sub.3NH(CH.sub.2).sub.3Si(OCH.sub.-
2CH.sub.3).sub.3 sold by the company Fluorochem,
bis[trimethoxysilylpropyl]amine of formula
(CH.sub.3O).sub.3--Si(CH.sub.2).sub.3NH(CH.sub.2).sub.3Si(OCH.sub.3).sub.-
3 sold by the company Gelest, bis[methyldiethoxysilylpropyl]amine
of formula
(CH.sub.3CH.sub.2O).sub.2CH.sub.3Si(CH.sub.2).sub.3NH(CH.sub.2).s-
ub.3SiCH.sub.3(OCH.sub.2CH.sub.3).sub.2 sold by the company Gelest,
and bis[3-trimethoxysilylpropyl]ethylenediamine of formula
(CH.sub.3O).sub.3Si(CH.sub.2).sub.3NH(CH).sub.2NH(CH.sub.2).sub.3Si(OCH.s-
ub.3).sub.3 sold by the company Gelest. Among these compounds,
bis[3-(triethoxysilyl)propyl]amine and
bis[methyldiethoxysilylpropyl]amine are preferred.
[0047] According to another embodiment of the invention, the
alkoxysilane(s) are chosen from the compounds of formula (III):
##STR00002##
[0048] in which:
[0049] R.sub.24 and R.sub.25 represent, independently of each
other, a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched
hydrocarbon-based chain, optionally containing one or more
heteroatoms, optionally interrupted or substituted with one or more
groups chosen from ether, ester, amine, amide, carboxyl, hydroxyl
and carbonyl groups,
[0050] e=2 or 3;
[0051] f=3-e;
[0052] g=0 or 1;
[0053] j=0 or 1;
[0054] E and E.sub.a each independently represent a linear or
branched divalent C.sub.1-C.sub.20 alkylene radical,
[0055] R.sub.26 and R.sub.27 each independently represent a
hydrogen atom or a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched
hydrocarbon-based chain, optionally containing one or more
heteroatoms, optionally interrupted or substituted with one or more
ether, C.sub.1-C.sub.20 alcohol ester, amine, carboxyl,
alkoxysilane, C.sub.6-C.sub.30 aryl, hydroxyl or carbonyl groups,
or a heterocyclic or non-heterocyclic aromatic ring, optionally
substituted with one or more C.sub.1-C.sub.20 alcohol ester, amine,
amide, carboxyl, alkoxysilane, hydroxyl, carbonyl or acyl
groups,
[0056] i is an integer ranging from 0 to 4,
[0057] h is 0 or 1,
[0058] the group(s) R.sub.28 each independently represent a
hydrogen atom or a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched,
preferably C.sub.1-C.sub.10 hydrocarbon-based chain, optionally
containing one or more heteroatoms, optionally interrupted or
substituted with one or more ether, C.sub.1-C.sub.20 alcohol ester,
amine, carboxyl, C.sub.6-C.sub.30 aryl, hydroxyl or carbonyl
groups, or a heterocyclic or non-heterocyclic aromatic ring,
optionally substituted with one or more C.sub.1-C.sub.20 alcohol
ester, amine, amide, carboxyl, hydroxyl, carbonyl or acyl
groups.
[0059] As explained previously, R.sub.24 and R.sub.25 each
independently represent a hydrocarbon-based chain. The term
"hydrocarbon-based chain" preferably means a chain comprising from
1 to 30 and preferably 1 to 10 carbon atoms.
[0060] Similarly, R.sub.26 or R.sub.27 may represent a
hydrocarbon-based chain. In this case, it preferably means a chain
comprising from 1 to 30 and preferably 1 to 10 carbon atoms.
[0061] Preferably, the aromatic ring comprises from 6 to 30 carbon
atoms. Even more preferentially, it denotes an optionally
substituted phenyl radical.
[0062] The alkoxysilane(s) of formula (III) may have the following
characteristics, taken alone or in combination: [0063] R.sub.24 is
a C.sub.1-C.sub.4 alkyl, [0064] e=3, g=j=1; i=h=0,
[0065] R.sub.26 and R.sub.27 independently represent hydrogen or a
group chosen from C.sub.1-C.sub.4 alkyl, C.sub.1-C.sub.4
hydroxyalkyl and C.sub.1-C.sub.4 aminoalkyl groups.
[0066] Preferably, R.sub.26 or R.sub.27 denote a hydrogen atom.
[0067] In particular, the alkoxysilane(s) of formula (III) may be
chosen from: [0068] 3-(m-aminophenoxy)propyltrimethoxysilane, of
formula:
[0068] ##STR00003## [0069] p-aminophenyltrimethoxysilane, of
formula:
[0069] ##STR00004## [0070]
N-(2-aminoethylaminomethyl)phenethyltrimethoxysilane, of
formula:
##STR00005##
[0071] More preferentially, the alkoxysilane(s) that may be used in
the compositions according to the present invention correspond to
formula (IV):
##STR00006##
[0072] in which:
[0073] R.sub.1 and R.sub.2, independently of each other, are chosen
from hydrogen and ethyl, propyl and aminoethyl groups;
[0074] R.sub.3 is chosen from ethyl, propyl and methylphenethyl
groups;
[0075] R.sub.4, R.sub.5 and R.sub.6, independently of each other,
are chosen from methyl, methoxy and ethoxy groups.
[0076] In one variant of the invention, the alkoxysilanes of the
invention comprise one or more primary or secondary amine
functions.
[0077] Preferably, the alkoxysilanes of the invention are chosen
from the compounds of formulae (I), (III) and (IV) and more
particularly the following compounds: 3-aminopropyltriethoxysilane
(APTES), 3-aminoethyltriethoxysilane (AETES),
3-aminopropylmethyldiethoxysilane,
N-(2-aminoethyl)-3-aminopropyltriethoxysilane and
N-(2-aminoethylaminomethyl)phenethyltrimethoxysilane of
formula:
##STR00007##
[0078] More particularly, the alkoxysilanes of the invention are
chosen from the compounds of formula (I), especially
3-aminopropyltriethoxysilane (APTES), 3-aminoethyltriethoxysilane
(AETES), 3-aminopropylmethyldiethoxysilane and
N-(2-aminoethyl)-3-aminopropyltriethoxysilane and preferably the
alkoxysilane is 3-aminopropyltriethoxysilane (APTES).
[0079] The alkoxysilane(s) may be present in the cosmetic
composition according to the invention in a content ranging from
0.05% to 20%, in particular from 0.1% to 10%, preferably from 0.2%
to 5%, by weight relative to the total weight of the
composition.
[0080] The composition according to the invention comprises one or
more starches modified with an acid or an acid derivative.
[0081] The starches that may be used in the present invention are
more particularly macromolecules in the form of polymers formed
from elemental units that are anhydroglucose units. The number of
these units and their assembly make it possible to distinguish
amylose (linear polymer) and amylopectin (branched polymer). The
relative proportions of amylose and of amylopectin, and their
degree of polymerization, vary as a function of the plant origin of
the starches.
[0082] The starch molecules used in the present invention may
originate from a plant source such as cereals, tubers, roots,
legumes and fruit. Thus, the starch(es) may originate from a plant
source chosen from corn, pea, potato, sweet potato, banana, barley,
wheat, rice, oat, sago, tapioca and sorghum. The starch is
preferably derived from potato.
[0083] It is also possible to use the starch hydrolysates mentioned
above.
[0084] Starches are generally in the form of a white powder, which
is insoluble in cold water, whose elemental particle size ranges
from 3 to 100 microns.
[0085] The starches used in the composition of the invention may be
chemically modified via one or more of the following reactions:
pregelatinization, oxidation, crosslinking, esterification, heat
treatments.
[0086] More particularly, these reactions may be performed in the
following manner: [0087] pregelatinization by splitting the starch
granules (for example drying and cooking in a drying drum); [0088]
oxidation with strong oxidizing agents, leading to the introduction
of carboxyl groups into the starch molecule and to depolymerization
of the starch molecule (for example by treating an aqueous starch
solution with sodium hypochlorite); [0089] crosslinking with
functional agents capable of reacting with the hydroxyl groups of
the starch molecules, which will thus bond together (for example
with glyceryl and/or phosphate groups); [0090] esterification in
alkaline medium for the grafting of functional groups, especially
C.sub.1-C.sub.6 acyl (acetyl), C.sub.1-C.sub.6 hydroxyalkyl
(hydroxyethyl or hydroxypropyl) and carboxyalkyl.
[0091] The acids or acid derivatives may be mineral or organic
acids or acid derivatives. The term "derivatives" means salts of
mineral or organic acids, organic acid chlorides, organic acid
anhydrides, organic acid esters or mineral oxychlorides.
[0092] Monostarch phosphates (of the type Am-O--PO--(OX).sub.2),
distarch phosphates (of the type Am-O--PO--(OX)--O-Am) or even
tristarch phosphates (of the type Am-O--PO--(O-Am).sub.2) or
mixtures thereof may especially be obtained by crosslinking with
phosphorus compounds.
[0093] X especially denotes alkali metals (for example sodium or
potassium), alkaline-earth metals (for example calcium or
magnesium), ammonium salts, amine salts, for instance those of
monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine,
3-amino-1,2-propanediol, or ammonium salts derived from basic amino
acids such as lysine, arginine, sarcosine, ornithine or
citrulline.
[0094] The phosphorus compounds may be, for example, sodium
tripolyphosphate, sodium orthophosphate, phosphorus oxychloride or
sodium trimetaphosphate.
[0095] Starch phosphates, in particular hydroxypropyl starch
phosphates, or compounds rich in starch phosphate and in particular
in hydroxypropyl starch phosphate may thus be used, for instance
the products sold under the references Prejel VA-70-T AGGL
(gelatinized hydroxypropyl cassava distarch phosphate), Prejel TK1
(gelatinized cassava distarch phosphate) and Prejel 200
(gelatinized acetyl cassava distarch phosphate) by the company
Avebe, or Structure Zea from National Starch (gelatinized
hydroxypropyl corn distarch phosphate).
[0096] When the starches are chemically modified via an
esterification reaction, carboxyalkyl starches as indicated
previously are obtained.
[0097] The carboxyalkyl starches are preferably
carboxy(C.sub.1-C.sub.4)alkyl starches and salts thereof, and more
particularly carboxymethyl starches and salts thereof.
[0098] The salts are especially salts of alkali metals or
alkaline-earth metals such as Na, K 1/2, Li, NH.sub.4, or salts of
a quaternary ammonium or of an organic amine such as
monoethanolamine, diethanolamine or triethanolamine.
[0099] Carboxyalkyl starches are obtained by grafting carboxyalkyl
groups onto one or more alcohol functions of starch, especially by
reaction of starch and of sodium monochloroacetate in alkaline
medium.
[0100] The carboxyalkyl groups are generally attached via an ether
function, more particularly to carbon 1.
[0101] The degree of substitution preferably ranges from 0.1 to 1
and more particularly from 0.15 to 0.5. The degree of substitution
is defined according to the present invention as being the mean
number of hydroxyl groups substituted with an ester or ether group
(in the present case ether for the carboxymethyl starches) per
monosaccharide unit of the polysaccharide.
[0102] The carboxyalkyl starches preferably comprise units having
the following formula:
##STR00008##
[0103] X denotes a hydrogen atom, an alkali metal or alkaline-earth
metal such as Na, K 1/2, Li or NH.sub.4, a quaternary ammonium or
an organic amine.
[0104] Preferably, X denotes an ion Na.sup.+.
[0105] The carboxyalkyl starches that may be used according to the
present invention are preferably non-pregelatinized carboxyalkyl
starches.
[0106] The carboxyalkyl starches that may be used according to the
present invention are preferably partially or totally crosslinked
carboxyalkyl starches.
[0107] The carboxyalkyl starches that may be used according to the
present invention are preferably sodium salts of carboxyalkyl
starches, in particular a sodium salt of potato carboxymethyl
starch, sold especially under the name Primojel by the company DMV
International. More than 95% of the particles of this starch have a
diameter of less than 100 microns and more particularly less than
65 microns.
[0108] Starch acetates or acetylated starches may also be used in
the invention, the acetylation possibly being performed especially
with acetic anhydride or with vinyl acetate. A starch acetate that
may be mentioned is the product Perfectamyl AC sold by the company
Avebe.
[0109] According to the invention, it is also possible to use
amphoteric starches, these amphoteric starches containing one or
more anionic groups and one or more cationic groups. The anionic
and cationic groups may be linked to the same reactive site of the
starch molecule or to different reactive sites; they are preferably
linked to the same reactive site. The anionic groups may be of
carboxylic, phosphate or sulfate type, preferably carboxylic. The
cationic groups may be of primary, secondary, tertiary or
quaternary amine type.
[0110] The amphoteric starches are especially chosen from the
compounds having the following formulae:
##STR00009##
[0111] in which formulae:
[0112] St-O represents a starch molecule,
[0113] R, which may be identical or different, represents a
hydrogen atom or a methyl radical,
[0114] R', which may be identical or different, represents a
hydrogen atom, a methyl radical or a --COOH group,
[0115] n is an integer equal to 2 or 3,
[0116] M, which may be identical or different, denotes a hydrogen
atom, an alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal such as Na, K, Li or
NH.sub.4, a quaternary ammonium or an organic amine,
[0117] R'' represents a hydrogen atom or an alkyl radical
containing from 1 to 18 carbon atoms.
[0118] These compounds are especially described in U.S. Pat. No.
5,455,340 and U.S. Pat. No. 4,017,460.
[0119] The starches of formula (V) or (VI) are particularly used as
amphoteric starches. Starches modified with
2-chloroethylaminodipropionic acid are more particularly used, i.e.
starches of formula (V) or (VI) in which R, R', R'' and M represent
a hydrogen atom and n is equal to 2. Mention may be made in
particular of the potato starch modified with
2-chloroethylaminodipropionic acid neutralized with sodium
hydroxide, sold under the reference Structure Solanace by the
company National Starch.
[0120] Preferably, one or more starches chosen from starch
phosphates and starch acetates will be used.
[0121] According to the invention, the starch(es) modified with an
acid derivative may represent from 0.01% to 10% by weight,
preferably from 0.1% to 10% by weight and more particularly from
0.5% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the
composition.
[0122] The weight ratio of the amount of starch modified with an
acid derivative to the amount of alkoxysilane ranges from 0.01 to
20, preferably from 0.05 to 10 and better still from 0.1 to 5.
[0123] The composition according to the invention may comprise
water, one or more organic solvents or a mixture of water and one
or more organic solvents, the organic solvents preferably being
selected from C.sub.1-C.sub.4 lower alcohols such as ethanol,
isopropanol, tert-butanol or n-butanol; polyols such as glycerol,
propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol and polyethylene glycols; and
mixtures thereof.
[0124] In the composition according to the invention, the water may
be present in a content ranging from 10% to 95% by weight and
preferably ranging from 20% to 95% by weight relative to the total
weight of the composition.
[0125] The composition according to the invention may also comprise
one or more thickeners other than the modified starches as
described previously.
[0126] The thickener(s) may be selected from fatty acid amides
obtained from a C.sub.10-C.sub.30 carboxylic acid (coconut acid
monoisopropanolamide, diethanolamide or monoethanolamide,
oxyethylenated alkyl ether carboxylic acid monoethanolamide),
cellulose-based thickeners (hydroxyethyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl
cellulose, carboxymethyl cellulose), guar gum and nonionic
derivatives thereof (hydroxypropyl guar), gums of microbial origin
(xanthan gum, scleroglucan gum), nonionic starches and associative
polymers.
[0127] The associative polymer(s) that may be used according to the
invention are water-soluble polymers that are capable, in aqueous
medium, of reversibly combining with each other or with other
molecules.
[0128] Their chemical structure comprises hydrophilic zones, and
hydrophobic zones characterized by at least one fatty chain
containing preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms.
[0129] The associative polymer(s) that may be used according to the
invention and that are different from the acrylic thickening
polymers may be of anionic, cationic, amphoteric or nonionic type,
such as the polymers sold under the names Elfacos T210 or T212 by
the company Akzo.
[0130] Among all the additional thickeners mentioned, the
thickener(s) are preferably chosen from cellulose-based
thickeners.
[0131] When they are present, the composition preferably comprises
from 0.1% to 20% by weight, and better still from 0.2% to 10% by
weight, of additional thickener(s), relative to the total weight of
the composition.
[0132] The composition according to the invention may also comprise
one or more conditioning agents.
[0133] According to the present invention, the term "conditioning
agent" denotes any compound that can improve the cosmetic
properties of the hair, in particular the softness, disentangling,
feel and static electricity.
[0134] The conditioning agent is preferably selected from the group
comprising cationic polymers, cationic surfactants, silicones such
as organosiloxanes, linear or branched C.sub.8-C.sub.30
hydrocarbons, linear or branched C.sub.8-C.sub.30 fatty alcohols,
esters of C.sub.8-C.sub.30 fatty acid and C.sub.1-C.sub.30 alcohol,
and especially esters of C.sub.8-C.sub.30 fatty acid and
C.sub.8-C.sub.30 fatty alcohol, esters of C.sub.1-C.sub.7 acid or
diacid and C.sub.8-C.sub.30 fatty alcohol, ceramides or ceramide
analogues, and mixtures of these compounds.
[0135] The term "cationic polymer" means a polymer that is
positively charged when it is contained in the composition
according to the invention. This polymer may bear one or more
positive permanent charges or may contain one or more cationizable
functions in the composition according to the invention.
[0136] The cationic polymer(s) that may be used as conditioning
agents according to the present invention are preferably selected
from polymers comprising primary, secondary, tertiary and/or
quaternary amine groups forming part of the polymer chain or
directly attached thereto, and having a molecular weight of between
500 and about 5 000 000 and preferably between 1000 and 3 000
000.
[0137] Among the cationic polymers that may be mentioned more
particularly are polymers of the polyamine, polyaminoamide and
polyquaternary ammonium type. These are known products. They are
described, for example, in French Patents 2 505 348 and 2 542
997.
[0138] Among these polymers, mention may be made of:
[0139] (1) homopolymers or copolymers derived from acrylic or
methacrylic esters or amides and comprising at least one of the
units of the following formulae:
##STR00010##
[0140] in which:
[0141] R.sub.3 and R.sub.4, which are identical or different,
represent a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group having from 1 to 6
carbon atoms, and preferably methyl or ethyl;
[0142] R.sub.5, which are identical or different, denote a hydrogen
atom or a CH.sub.3 group;
[0143] A, which are identical or different, represent a linear or
branched alkyl group having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably 2
or 3 carbon atoms, or a hydroxyalkyl group having from 1 to 4
carbon atoms;
[0144] R.sub.6, R.sub.7, R.sub.8, which are identical or different,
represent an alkyl group having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms or a
benzyl group, and preferably an alkyl group having from 1 to 6
carbon atoms;
[0145] X.sup.- denotes an anion derived from an organic or
inorganic acid, such as a methosulfate anion, or a halide such as
chloride or bromide.
[0146] The copolymers of the family (1) may further contain one or
more units deriving from comonomers which may be selected from the
family of acrylamides, methacrylamides, diacetone acrylamides,
acrylamides and methacrylamides substituted on the nitrogen by
lower (C.sub.1-C.sub.4) alkyls, acrylic acids or methacrylic acids
or esters thereof, vinyllactams such as vinylpyrrolidone or
vinylcaprolactam, and vinyl esters.
[0147] Thus, among these copolymers of the family (1), mention may
be made of: [0148] copolymers of acrylamide and of
dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with dimethyl sulfate
or with a dimethyl halide, such as that sold under the name
Hercofloc by the company Hercules, [0149] copolymers of acrylamide
and of methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride, described,
for example, in Patent Application EP-A-080 976 and sold under the
name Bina Quat P 100 by the company Ciba Geigy, [0150] the
copolymer of acrylamide and of
methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium methosulfate sold under the
name Reten by the company Hercules, [0151] quaternized or
non-quaternized vinylpyrrolidone/dialkylaminoalkyl acrylate or
methacrylate copolymers, such as the products sold under the name
Gafquat by the company ISP, such as, for example, Gafquat 734 or
Gafquat 755, or alternatively the products known as Copolymer 845,
958 and 937. These polymers are described in detail in French
Patents 2 077 143 and 2 393 573, [0152] dimethylaminoethyl
methacrylate/vinylcaprolactam/vinylpyrrolidone terpolymers, such as
the product sold under the name Gaffix VC 713 by the company ISP,
[0153] vinylpyrrolidone/methacrylamidopropyldimethylamine
copolymers sold in particular under the name Styleze CC 10 by the
company ISP, [0154] quaternized
vinylpyrrolidone/dimethylaminopropyl methacrylamide copolymers,
such as the product sold under the name Gafquat HS 100 by the
company ISP, and [0155] the crosslinked polymers of
methacryloyloxy(C.sub.1-C.sub.4)alkyl
tri(C.sub.1-C.sub.4)alkylammonium salts, such as the polymers
obtained by homopolymerization of dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate
quaternized with methyl chloride, or by copolymerization of
acrylamide with dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with
methyl chloride, the homo- or copolymerization being followed by
crosslinking with an olefinically unsaturated compound, more
particularly methylenebisacrylamide. A crosslinked
acrylamide/methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride copolymer
(20/80 by weight) in the form of a dispersion containing 50% by
weight of said copolymer in mineral oil can be used more
particularly. This dispersion is sold under the name Salcare.RTM.
SC 92 by the company Ciba. A crosslinked
methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride homopolymer, for
example as a dispersion in mineral oil or in a liquid ester, can
also be used. These dispersions are sold under the names
Salcare.RTM. SC 95 and Salcare.RTM. SC 96 by the company Ciba.
[0156] (2) Polymers composed of piperazinyl units and of divalent
alkylene or hydroxyalkylene groups containing straight or branched
chains, optionally interrupted by oxygen, sulfur or nitrogen atoms
or by aromatic or heterocyclic rings, and also the oxidation and/or
quaternization products of these polymers. Such polymers are
especially described in French Patents 2 162 025 and 2 280 361.
[0157] (3) Water-soluble polyaminoamides prepared in particular by
polycondensation of an acidic compound with a polyamine; these
polyaminoamides can be crosslinked with an epihalohydrin, a
diepoxide, a dianhydride, an unsaturated dianhydride, a
bis-unsaturated derivative, a bis-halohydrin, a bis-azetidinium, a
bis-haloacyldiamine, a bis-alkyl halide or alternatively with an
oligomer resulting from the reaction of a difunctional compound
which is reactive with a bis-halohydrin, a bis-azetidinium, a
bis-haloacyldiamine, a bis-alkyl halide, an epihalohydrin, a
diepoxide or a bis-unsaturated derivative; the crosslinking agent
being used in proportions ranging from 0.025 to 0.35 mol per amine
group of the polyaminoamide; these polyaminoamides can be alkylated
or, if they comprise one or more tertiary amine functions, they can
be quaternized. Such polymers are especially described in French
Patents 2 252 840 and 2 368 508.
[0158] (4) Polyaminoamide derivatives resulting from the
condensation of polyalkylene polyamines with polycarboxylic acids
followed by alkylation with difunctional agents. Mention may be
made, for example, of adipic
acid/dialkylaminohydroxyalkyldialkylenetriamine polymers in which
the alkyl groups contain from 1 to 4 carbon atoms and preferably
denote a methyl, ethyl or propyl group, and the alkylene groups
contain from 1 to 4 carbon atoms and preferably denote the ethylene
group. Such polymers are especially described in French Patent 1
583 363.
[0159] Among these derivatives, mention may be made more
particularly of the adipic
acid/dimethylaminohydroxypropyl/diethylenetriamine polymers sold
under the name Cartaretine F, F4 or F8 by the company Sandoz.
[0160] (5) The polymers obtained by reaction of a polyalkylene
polyamine containing two primary amine groups and at least one
secondary amine group with a dicarboxylic acid selected from
diglycolic acid and saturated aliphatic dicarboxylic acids having
from 3 to 8 carbon atoms. The molar ratio between the polyalkylene
polyamine and the dicarboxylic acid is between 0.8:1 and 1.4:1; the
polyaminoamide resulting therefrom is reacted with epichlorohydrin
in a molar ratio of epichlorohydrin relative to the secondary amine
group of the polyaminoamide of between 0.5:1 and 1.8:1. Such
polymers are described in particular in U.S. Pat. No. 3,227,615 and
2 961 347.
[0161] Polymers of this type are sold in particular under the name
Hercosett 57 by the company Hercules Inc. or alternatively under
the name PD 170 or Delsette 101 by the company Hercules in the case
of the adipic acid/epoxypropyl/diethylenetriamine copolymer.
[0162] (6) Cyclopolymers of alkyldiallylamine or of
dialkyldiallylammonium, such as homopolymers or copolymers
comprising, as main constituent of the chain, units corresponding
to formula (XIII) or (XIV):
##STR00011##
[0163] in which formulae: k and t are equal to 0 or 1, the sum k+t
being equal to 1; R.sub.12 denotes a hydrogen atom or a methyl
group; R.sub.10 and R.sub.11, independently of one another, denote
an alkyl group having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, a hydroxyalkyl
group in which the alkyl group has preferably 1 to 5 carbon atoms,
a lower (C.sub.1-C.sub.4) amidoalkyl group, or else R.sub.10 and
R.sub.11 may, together with the nitrogen atom to which they are
attached, denote heterocyclic groups, such as piperidyl or
morpholinyl; Y.sup.- is an anion such as bromide, chloride,
acetate, borate, citrate, tartrate, bisulfate, bisulfite, sulfate
or phosphate. These polymers are especially described in French
Patent 2 080 759 and in its Certificate of Addition 2 190 406.
[0164] R.sub.10 and R.sub.11, independently of one another,
preferably denote an alkyl group having from 1 to 4 carbon
atoms.
[0165] Among the polymers defined above, mention may be made more
particularly of the dimethyldiallylammonium chloride homopolymer
sold under the name Merquat 100 by the company Nalco (and its
homologues of low weight-average molecular weights) and the
copolymers of diallyldimethylammonium chloride and of acrylamide,
sold under the name Merquat 550.
[0166] (7) The quaternary diammonium polymer containing repeating
units corresponding to formula (XV):
##STR00012##
[0167] in which formula (XV):
[0168] R.sub.13, R.sub.14, R.sub.15 and R.sub.16, which may be
identical or different, represent aliphatic, alicyclic or
arylaliphatic groups containing from 1 to 7 carbon atoms or lower
(C.sub.1-C.sub.4) hydroxyalkylaliphatic groups, or alternatively
R.sub.13, R.sub.14, R.sub.15 and R.sub.16, together or separately,
constitute, with the nitrogen atoms to which they are attached,
heterocycles optionally containing a second heteroatom other than
nitrogen, or alternatively R.sub.13, R.sub.14, R.sub.15 and
R.sub.16 represent a linear or branched C.sub.1-C.sub.6 alkyl group
substituted with a nitrile, ester, acyl or amide group or a
--CO--O--R.sub.17-D or --CO--NH--R.sub.17-D group where R.sub.17 is
an alkylene having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms and D is a quaternary
ammonium group;
[0169] A.sub.1 and B.sub.1 represent polymethylene groups
containing from 2 to 20 carbon atoms, which may be linear or
branched and saturated or unsaturated and may contain, joined to or
intercalated in the main chain, one or more aromatic rings, or one
or more oxygen or sulfur atoms or sulfoxide, sulfone, disulfide,
amino, alkylamino, hydroxyl, quaternary ammonium, ureido, amide or
ester groups, and
[0170] X.sup.- denotes an anion derived from an inorganic or
organic acid;
[0171] A.sub.1, R.sub.13 and R.sub.15 may, with the two nitrogen
atoms to which they are attached, form a piperazine ring; moreover,
if Ai denotes a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated
alkylene or hydroxyalkylene group, B.sub.1 may also denote a
group
--(CH.sub.2).sub.n--CO-D-OC--(CH.sub.2).sub.p--
[0172] in which:
[0173] n and p are integers ranging from 2 to 20 approximately,
[0174] D denotes:
[0175] a) a glycol residue of formula: --O--Z--O--, where Z denotes
a linear or branched hydrocarbon-based group or a group
corresponding to one of the following formulae:
--(CH.sub.2--CH.sub.2--O).sub.x--CH.sub.2--CH.sub.2--
--[CH.sub.2--CH(CH.sub.3)--O].sub.y--CH.sub.2--CH(CH.sub.3)--
[0176] where x and y denote an integer from 1 to 4, representing a
defined and unique degree of polymerization or any number from 1 to
4 representing an average degree of polymerization;
[0177] b) a bis-secondary diamine residue such as a piperazine
derivative;
[0178] c) a bis-primary diamine residue of formula: --NH--Y--NH--,
where Y denotes a linear or branched hydrocarbon-based group, or
else the divalent group
--CH.sub.2--CH.sub.2--S--S--CH.sub.2--CH.sub.2--;
[0179] d) an ureylene group of formula: --NH--CO--NH--.
[0180] Preferably, X.sup.- is an anion such as chloride or
bromide.
[0181] These polymers generally have a number-average molecular
weight of between 1000 and 100 000.
[0182] Polymers of this type are described in particular in French
Patents 2 320 330, 2 270 846, 2 316 271, 2 336 434 and 2 413 907
and U.S. Pat. Nos. 2,273,780, 2,375,853, 2,388,614, 2,454,547,
3,206,462, 2,261,002, 2,271,378, 3,874,870, 4,001,432, 3,929,990,
3,966,904, 4,005,193, 4,025,617, 4,025,627, 4,025,653, 4,026,945
and 4,027,020.
[0183] Use may be made more particularly of polymers that are
formed from repeating units corresponding to formula (XVI):
##STR00013##
[0184] in which: R.sub.18, R.sub.19, R.sub.20 and R.sub.21, which
are identical or different, denote an alkyl or hydroxyalkyl group
having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms approximately, r and s are integers
ranging from 2 to 20 approximately, and X.sup.- is an anion derived
from an inorganic or organic acid.
[0185] One particularly preferred compound of formula (XVI) is that
for which R.sub.18, R.sub.19, R.sub.20 and R.sub.21 represent a
methyl group and r=3, s=6 and X=Cl, which is called Hexadimethrine
chloride according to INCl nomenclature (CTFA).
[0186] (8) Polyquaternary ammonium polymers consisting of units of
formula (XVII):
##STR00014##
[0187] in which formula:
[0188] R.sub.22, R.sub.23, R.sub.24 and R.sub.25, which are
identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a methyl,
ethyl, propyl, .beta.-hydroxyethyl, .beta.-hydroxypropyl or
--CH.sub.2CH.sub.2(OCH.sub.2CH.sub.2).sub.pOH group, where p is
equal to 0 or to an integer between 1 and 6, with the proviso that
R.sub.22, R.sub.23, R.sub.24 and R.sub.25 do not simultaneously
represent a hydrogen atom,
[0189] t and u, which may be identical or different, are integers
between 1 and 6,
[0190] v is equal to 0 or to an integer between 1 and 34,
[0191] X.sup.- denotes an anion such as a halide,
[0192] A denotes a dihalide group or preferably represents
--CH.sub.2--CH.sub.2--O--CH.sub.2--CH.sub.2--.
[0193] Such compounds are described especially in Patent
Application EP-A-122 324.
[0194] Among these, mention may be made, for example, of the
products Mirapol.RTM. A 15, Mirapol.RTM. AD1, Mirapol.RTM. AZ1 and
Mirapol.RTM. 175, sold by the company Miranol.
[0195] (9) Quaternary polymers of vinylpyrrolidone and of
vinylimidazole, for instance the products sold under the names
Luviquat.RTM. FC 905, FC 550 and FC 370 by the company BASF.
[0196] (10) Cationic polysaccharides, in particular cationic
celluloses and derivatives of cationic celluloses, and cationic
galactomannan gums.
[0197] Among the cationic polysaccharides, mention may be made more
particularly of cellulose ether derivatives comprising quaternary
ammonium groups, cationic cellulose copolymers or cellulose
derivatives grafted with a water-soluble quaternary ammonium
monomer and cationic galactomannan gums.
[0198] The cellulose ether derivatives comprising quaternary
ammonium groups are described in French Patent 1 492 597. These
polymers are also defined in the CTFA dictionary as quaternary
ammoniums of hydroxyethyl cellulose that have reacted with an
epoxide substituted with a trimethylammonium group.
[0199] The cationic cellulose copolymers or the cellulose
derivatives grafted with a water-soluble quaternary ammonium
monomer are described especially in U.S. Pat. No. 4,131,576, such
as hydroxyalkyl celluloses, for instance hydroxymethyl,
hydroxyethyl or hydroxypropyl celluloses grafted especially with a
methacryloylethyltrimethylammonium,
methacrylamidopropyltri-methylammonium or dimethyldiallylammonium
salt.
[0200] The cationic galactomannan gums are described more
particularly in U.S. Pat. No. 3,589,978 and 4 031 307, in
particular guar gums containing cationic trialkylammonium groups.
Use is made, for example, of guar gums modified with a
2,3-epoxypropyltrimethylammonium salt (for example, chloride).
[0201] Other cationic polymers that may be used in the context of
the invention are cationic proteins or cationic protein
hydrolysates, polyalkyleneimines, in particular polyethyleneimines,
polymers containing vinylpyridine or vinylpyridinium units,
condensates of polyamines and of epichlorohydrin, quaternary
polyureylenes and chitin derivatives.
[0202] The cationic proteins or protein hydrolysates are, in
particular, chemically modified polypeptides bearing quaternary
ammonium groups at the end of the chain, or grafted thereon. Their
molecular weight may vary, for example, from 1500 to 10 000 and in
particular from 2000 to 5000 approximately. Among these compounds,
mention may be made especially of: [0203] collagen hydrolysates
bearing triethylammonium groups, such as the products sold under
the name Quat-Pro E by the company Maybrook and referred to in the
CTFA dictionary as Triethonium Hydrolyzed Collagen Ethosulfate;
[0204] collagen hydrolysates bearing trimethylammonium chloride and
trimethylstearylammonium chloride groups, which are sold under the
name Quat-Pro S by the company Maybrook and are referred to in the
CTFA dictionary as Steartrimonium Hydrolyzed Collagen; [0205]
animal protein hydrolysates bearing trimethylbenzylammonium groups,
such as the products sold under the name Crotein BTA by the company
Croda and referred to in the CTFA dictionary as Benzyltrimonium
hydrolyzed animal protein; [0206] protein hydrolysates bearing
quaternary ammonium groups on the polypeptide chain, said ammonium
groups containing at least one alkyl group having from 1 to 18
carbon atoms.
[0207] Among these protein hydrolysates, mention may be made, inter
alia, of: [0208] Croquat L, in which the quaternary ammonium groups
contain a C.sub.12 alkyl group; [0209] Croquat M, in which the
quaternary ammonium groups contain C.sub.10-C.sub.18 alkyl groups;
[0210] Croquat S, in which the quaternary ammonium groups contain a
C.sub.18 alkyl group; [0211] Crotein Q, in which the quaternary
ammonium groups contain at least one alkyl group having from 1 to
18 carbon atoms.
[0212] These various products are sold by the company Croda.
[0213] Other quaternized proteins or hydrolysates are, for example,
those corresponding to the formula (XVIII):
##STR00015##
[0214] in which X.sup.- is an anion of an organic or inorganic
acid, A denotes a protein residue derived from collagen protein
hydrolysates, R.sub.29 denotes a lipophilic group containing up to
30 carbon atoms, and R.sub.30 represents an alkylene group having 1
to 6 carbon atoms. Mention may, for example, be made of the
products sold by the company Inolex, under the name Lexein QX 3000,
called, in the CTFA dictionary, Cocotrimonium Collagen
Hydrolysate.
[0215] Mention may also be made of quaternized plant proteins such
as wheat, corn or soybean proteins: quaternized wheat proteins that
may be mentioned include those sold by the company Croda under the
names Hydrotriticum WQ or QM, which in the CTFA dictionary are
called Cocodimonium Hydrolysed wheat protein, or Hydrotriticum QL,
which in the CTFA dictionary is called Laurdimonium hydrolysed
wheat protein, or else Hydrotriticum QS, which in the CTFA
dictionary is called Steardimonium hydrolysed wheat protein.
[0216] Among all the cationic polymers that may be used in the
context of the present invention, it is preferred to use cationic
cyclopolymers, such as defined above, in particular the
dimethyldiallylammonium chloride homopolymers or copolymers sold
under the names Merquat 100, Merquat 550 and Merquat S by the
company Nalco, and quaternary vinylpyrrolidone and vinylimidazole
polymers, cationic polysaccharides and mixtures thereof.
[0217] The conditioning agent(s) that can be used according to the
invention may be selected from cationic surfactants.
[0218] The term "cationic surfactant" means a surfactant that is
positively charged when it is contained in the composition
according to the invention. This surfactant may bear one or more
positive permanent charges or may contain one or more functions
that are cationizable in the composition according to the
invention.
[0219] The cationic surfactant(s) that may be used as conditioning
agents according to the present invention are preferably selected
from optionally polyoxyalkylenated primary, secondary or tertiary
fatty amines, or the salts thereof, quaternary ammonium salts, and
mixtures thereof.
[0220] The fatty amines generally comprise at least one
C.sub.8-C.sub.30 hydrocarbon-based chain. Among the fatty amines
that can be used according to the invention, examples that may be
mentioned include stearylamidopropyldimethylamine and
distearylamine.
[0221] Examples of quaternary ammonium salts that may especially be
mentioned include: [0222] those corresponding to the general
formula (XIX) below:
##STR00016##
[0223] in which the groups R.sub.8 to R.sub.11, which may be
identical or different, represent a linear or branched aliphatic
group containing from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, or an aromatic group
such as aryl or alkylaryl, at least one of the groups R.sub.8 to
R.sub.11 denoting a group containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms,
preferably from 12 to 24 carbon atoms. The aliphatic groups may
comprise heteroatoms such as, in particular, oxygen, nitrogen,
sulfur and halogens. The aliphatic groups are chosen, for example,
from C.sub.1-30 alkyl, C.sub.1-30 alkoxy,
(C.sub.2-C.sub.6)-polyoxyalkylene, C.sub.1-30 alkylamide,
(C.sub.12-C.sub.22)alkylamido(C.sub.2-C.sub.6)alkyl,
(C.sub.12-C.sub.22)alkylacetate, and C.sub.1-30 hydroxyalkyl;
X.sup.- is an anion chosen from the group of halides, phosphates,
acetates, lactates, (C.sub.1-C.sub.4)alkyl sulfates and
(C.sub.1-C.sub.4)alkyl sulfonates or (C.sub.1-C.sub.4)alkylaryl
sulfonates.
[0224] Among the quaternary ammonium salts of formula (XIX), those
that are preferred are, on the one hand, tetraalkylammonium salts,
for instance dialkyldimethylammonium or alkyltrimethylammonium
salts in which the alkyl group contains approximately from 12 to 22
carbon atoms, in particular behenyltrimethylammonium,
distearyldimethylammonium, cetyltrimethylammonium or
benzyldimethylstearylammonium salts, or, on the other hand, the
palmitylamidopropyltrimethylammonium salt, the
stearamidopropyltrimethylammonium salt, the
stearamidopropyldimethylcetearylammonium salt, or the
stearamidopropyldimethyl(myristyl acetate)ammonium salt sold under
the name Ceraphyl.RTM. 70 by the company Van Dyk. It is
particularly preferred to use the chloride salts of these
compounds; [0225] quaternary ammonium salts of imidazoline, for
instance those of formula (XX) below:
##STR00017##
[0226] in which R.sub.12 represents an alkenyl or alkyl group
containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, for example tallow fatty acid
derivatives, R.sub.13 represents a hydrogen atom, a C.sub.1-C.sub.4
alkyl group or an alkenyl or alkyl group containing from 8 to 30
carbon atoms, R.sub.14 represents a C.sub.1-C.sub.4 alkyl group,
R.sub.15 represents a hydrogen atom or a C.sub.1-C.sub.4 alkyl
group, X.sup.- is an anion chosen from the group of halides,
phosphates, acetates, lactates, alkyl sulfates, alkyl sulfonates or
alkylaryl sulfonates, the alkyl and aryl groups of which preferably
comprise, respectively, from 1 to 20 carbon atoms and from 6 to 30
carbon atoms. R.sub.12 and R.sub.13 preferably denote a mixture of
alkenyl or alkyl groups comprising from 12 to 21 carbon atoms, for
example tallow fatty acid derivatives, R.sub.14 denotes a methyl
group, and R.sub.15 denotes a hydrogen atom. Such a product is
sold, for example, under the name Rewoquat.RTM. W 75 by the company
Rewo; [0227] quaternary di- or triammonium salts of formula
(XXI):
##STR00018##
[0228] in which R.sub.16 denotes an alkyl group containing
approximately from 16 to 30 carbon atoms, which is optionally
hydroxylated and/or interrupted with one or more oxygen atoms,
R.sub.17 is selected from hydrogen or an alkyl group containing
from 1 to 4 carbon atoms or the following group:
##STR00019##
[0229] R'.sub.16, R'.sub.17, R'.sub.18, R.sub.18, R.sub.19,
R.sub.20 and R.sub.21, which may be identical or different, are
selected from hydrogen or an alkyl group containing from 1 to 4
carbon atoms, and X.sup.- and Y.sup.- are anions in particular
selected from the group of halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates
and (C.sub.1-C.sub.6)alkyl sulfates, in particular methyl sulfate
or ethyl sulfate. Such compounds are, for example, Finquat CT-P
from the company Finetex (Quaternium-89), Finquat CT from the
company Finetex (Quaternium 75) and Condicate CT from the company
Innospec Active Chemicals (Quaternium-75); [0230] quaternary
ammonium salts containing at least one ester function, such as
those of formula (XXII) below:
##STR00020##
[0231] in which:
[0232] R.sub.22 is chosen from C.sub.1-C.sub.6 alkyl groups and
C.sub.1-C.sub.6 hydroxyalkyl or dihydroxyalkyl groups;
[0233] R.sub.23 is chosen from: [0234] the group
[0234] ##STR00021## [0235] groups R.sub.27 which are linear or
branched, saturated or unsaturated C.sub.1-C.sub.22
hydrocarbon-based groups, [0236] a hydrogen atom,
[0237] R.sub.25 is chosen from: [0238] the group
[0238] ##STR00022## [0239] groups R.sub.29 which are linear or
branched, saturated or unsaturated C.sub.1-C.sub.6
hydrocarbon-based groups, [0240] a hydrogen atom,
[0241] R.sub.24, R.sub.26 and R.sub.28, which may be identical or
different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or
unsaturated C.sub.7-C.sub.21 hydrocarbon-based groups;
[0242] r, s and t, which may be identical or different, are
integers ranging from 2 to 6;
[0243] y is an integer ranging from 1 to 10;
[0244] x and z, which may be identical or different, are integers
ranging from 0 to 10;
[0245] X.sup.- is a simple or complex, organic or inorganic
anion;
[0246] with the proviso that the sum x+y+z is from 1 to 15, that
when x is 0, then R.sub.23 denotes R.sub.27 and that when z is 0,
then R.sub.25 denotes R.sub.29.
[0247] The alkyl groups R.sub.22 may be linear or branched, and
more particularly linear.
[0248] Preferably, R.sub.22 denotes a methyl, ethyl, hydroxyethyl
or dihydroxypropyl group, and more particularly a methyl or ethyl
group.
[0249] Advantageously, the sum x+y+z is from 1 to 10.
[0250] When R.sub.23 is a hydrocarbon-based group R.sub.27, it may
be long and contain from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, or may be short and
contain from 1 to 3 carbon atoms.
[0251] When R.sub.25 is a hydrocarbon-based group R.sub.29, it
preferably contains 1 to 3 carbon atoms.
[0252] Advantageously, R.sub.24, R.sub.26 and R.sub.28, which may
be identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched,
saturated or unsaturated C.sub.11-C.sub.21 hydrocarbon-based
groups, and more particularly from linear or branched, saturated or
unsaturated C.sub.11-C.sub.21 alkyl and alkenyl groups.
[0253] Preferably, x and z, which may be identical or different,
are equal to 0 or 1.
[0254] Advantageously, y is equal to 1.
[0255] Preferably, r, s and t, which may be identical or different,
are equal to 2 or 3, and even more particularly are equal to 2.
[0256] The anion X.sup.- is preferably a halide (chloride, bromide
or iodide) or an alkyl sulfate, more particularly methyl sulfate.
However, use may be made of methanesulfonate, phosphate, nitrate,
tosylate, an anion derived from an organic acid, such as acetate or
lactate, or any other anion compatible with the ammonium containing
an ester function.
[0257] The anion X.sup.- is even more particularly chloride or
methyl sulfate.
[0258] Use is made more particularly, in the composition according
to the invention, of the ammonium salts of formula (XXII) in
which:
[0259] R.sub.22 denotes a methyl or ethyl group,
[0260] x and y are equal to 1;
[0261] z is equal to 0 or 1;
[0262] r, s and t are equal to 2;
[0263] R.sub.23 is chosen from: [0264] the group
[0264] ##STR00023## [0265] methyl, ethyl or C.sub.14-C.sub.22
hydrocarbon-based groups; [0266] a hydrogen atom;
[0267] R.sub.25 is chosen from: [0268] the group
[0268] ##STR00024## [0269] a hydrogen atom;
[0270] R.sub.24, R.sub.26 and R.sub.28, which may be identical or
different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or
unsaturated C.sub.13-C.sub.17 hydrocarbon-based groups, and
preferably from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated
C.sub.13-C.sub.17 alkyl and alkenyl groups.
[0271] The hydrocarbon-based groups are advantageously linear.
[0272] Mention may be made, for example, of the compounds of
formula (XXII) such as the diacyloxyethyldimethylammonium,
diacyloxyethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium,
monoacyloxyethyldihydroxyethyl-methylammonium,
triacyloxyethylmethylammonium and
monoacyloxyethylhydroxyethyldimethylammonium salts (chloride or
methyl sulfate in particular), and mixtures thereof. The acyl
groups preferably contain 14 to 18 carbon atoms and are obtained
more particularly from a plant oil such as palm oil or sunflower
oil. When the compound contains several acyl groups, these groups
may be identical or different.
[0273] These products are obtained, for example, by direct
esterification of triethanolamine, of triisopropanolamine, of
alkyldiethanolamine or of alkyldiisopropanolamine, which are
optionally alkoxylated, with C.sub.10-C.sub.30 fatty acids or with
mixtures of C.sub.10-C.sub.30 fatty acids of plant or animal
origin, or by transesterification of their methyl esters. This
esterification is followed by a quaternization using an alkylating
agent such as an alkyl halide (preferably a methyl or ethyl
halide), a dialkyl sulfate (preferably a dimethyl or diethyl
sulfate), methyl methanesulfonate, methyl para-toluenesulfonate,
glycol chlorohydrin or glycerol chlorohydrin.
[0274] Such compounds are sold, for example, under the names
Dehyquart.RTM. by the company Henkel, Stepanquat.RTM. by the
company Stepan, Noxamium.RTM. by the company Ceca or Rewoquat.RTM.
WE 18 by the company Rewo-Witco.
[0275] The composition according to the invention may contain, for
example, a mixture of quaternary ammonium monoester, diester and
triester salts with a weight majority of diester salts.
[0276] It is also possible to use the ammonium salts containing at
least one ester function that are described in U.S. Pat. No.
4,874,554 and U.S. Pat. No. 4,137,180.
[0277] The particularly preferred cationic surfactant(s) that may
be used according to the invention are selected from compounds of
formula (XIX) or of formula (XXII),
methyl(C.sub.9-C.sub.19)alkyl(C.sub.10-C.sub.20)alkylamidoethylimidazoliu-
m salts, and stearamidopropyldimethylamine.
[0278] Among all the cationic surfactants that may be present in
the composition according to the invention, it is preferred to
select cetyltrimethylammonium, behenyltrimethylammonium,
di(palmitoyloxyethyl)hydroxyethylmethylammonium,
di(stearoyloxyethyl)hydroxyethylmethylammonium,
methyl(C.sub.9-C.sub.19)alkyl(C.sub.10-C.sub.20)alkylamidoethylimidazoliu-
m salts, stearamidopropyltrimethylammonium salt,
stearamidopropyldimethylamine,
stearamidopropyldimethylcetearylammonium salt, and mixtures
thereof.
[0279] The cationic surfactant(s) may be present in a content
ranging from 0.01% to 15% by weight, preferably ranging from 0.1%
to 10% by weight and more preferentially ranging from 0.2% to 5% by
weight, relative to the total weight of the composition of the
invention.
[0280] When the composition in accordance with the invention
comprises one or more cationic surfactants, the starches modified
with an acid derivative/cationic surfactant(s) weight ratio
generally ranges from 0.1 to 50, even more preferentially from 1 to
25 and better still from 1 to 10.
[0281] Among the silicones that may be used as conditioning agents
in accordance with the present invention, mention may be made, in a
non-limiting manner, of:
[0282] I. Volatile Silicones:
[0283] These silicones have a boiling point of between 60.degree.
C. and 260.degree. C. Among the silicones of this type that are
mentioned are:
[0284] (a) cyclic silicones comprising from 3 to 7, and preferably
4 to 5, silicon atoms.
[0285] These are, for example, the octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane
sold under the name Volatile Silicone 7207.RTM. by the company
Union Carbide, or Silbione 70045 V2.RTM. by the company
Rhone-Poulenc, the decamethylcyclopentasiloxane sold under the name
Volatile Silicone 7158.RTM. by the company Union Carbide or
Silbione 70045 V5.RTM. by the company Rhone-Poulenc, and mixtures
thereof. Mention is also made of cyclopolymers of the
dimethylsiloxane/methylalkylsiloxane type, such as Silicone
Volatile FZ 3109.RTM. sold by the company Union Carbide, which is a
dimethylsiloxane/methyloctylsiloxane cyclopolymer;
[0286] (b) linear volatile silicones containing 2 to 9 silicon
atoms and having a viscosity of less than or equal to
5.times.10.sup.-6 m.sup.2/s at 25.degree. C.
[0287] These are, for example, the hexamethyldisiloxane sold under
the name Silbione 70041 V0.65.RTM. by the company Rhone-Poulenc.
This type of product is described in the article by Todd &
Byers "Volatile silicone fluids for cosmetics", Cosmetics and
Toiletries, Vol. 91, January 76, pages 27-32.
[0288] II. Non-Volatile Silicones:
[0289] These silicones are mainly constituted by
polyalkylsiloxanes, polyarylsiloxanes, polyalkylarylsiloxanes and
organomodified polysiloxanes, and also mixtures thereof. They may
be in the form of oils, gums and resins.
[0290] Among the polyalkylsiloxanes, mention may be made mainly of
linear polydimethylsiloxanes with a viscosity of greater than
5.times.10.sup.-6 m.sup.2/s, and preferably less than 2.6
m.sup.2/s, i.e.: [0291] containing trimethylsilyl end groups, such
as, for example, and without limitation, the Silbione.RTM. oils of
series 70047 that are sold by the company Rhone-Poulenc, the oil
Wacker Belsil DM 60000 from Wacker, or certain Viscasil.RTM.
products from the company General Electric; [0292] containing
trihydroxysilyl end groups of the 48 V.RTM. series from the company
Rhone-Poulenc.
[0293] In this class of polyalkylsiloxanes, mention may also be
made of the polyalkylsiloxanes sold by the company Goldschmidt
under the names Abil Wax 9800.RTM. and Abil Wax 9801.RTM., which
are poly(C.sub.1-20)alkylsiloxanes.
[0294] Among the polyalkylarylsiloxanes, mention may be made of
linear and/or branched polydimethylphenylsiloxanes and
polydimethyldiphenylsiloxanes, with a viscosity from 10.sup.-5 to
5.times.10.sup.-2 m.sup.2/s, for instance: [0295] the oil
Rhodorsil.RTM. 763 from Rhone-Poulenc, [0296] the Silbione.RTM.
oils of the 70641 series from Rhone-Poulenc, such as the oils
Silbione 70641 V30.RTM. and Silbione 70641 V200.RTM., [0297] the
product DC 556.RTM. Cosmetic Grade Fluid from Dow Corning, [0298]
the silicones of the PK series from Bayer, such as PK20.RTM.,
[0299] the silicones of the PN and PH series from Bayer, such as
the products PN 1000.RTM. and PH 1000.RTM.; [0300] certain oils of
the SF series from General Electric, such as SF 1250.RTM., SF 1265,
SF 1154.RTM. and SF 1023.RTM..
[0301] The silicone gums in accordance with the present invention
are polydiorganosiloxanes with a high number-average molecular
weight of between 200 000 and 1 000 000, used alone or as a mixture
in a solvent selected from volatile silicones, polydimethylsiloxane
(PDMS) oils, polyphenylmethylsiloxane (PPMS) oils, isoparaffins,
methylene chloride, pentane, dodecane, tridecane and tetradecane,
or mixtures thereof.
[0302] Mention is made, for example, of the compounds having the
following structures: [0303]
poly[(dimethylsiloxane)/(methylvinylsiloxane)] gums, [0304]
poly[(dimethylsiloxane)/(diphenylsiloxane)] gums, [0305]
poly[(dihydrogenodimethylsiloxane)/(divinylsiloxane)] gums, [0306]
poly[(dimethylsiloxane)/(phenylmethylsiloxane)] gums, [0307]
poly[(dimethylsiloxane)/(diphenylsiloxane)/(methylvinylsiloxane)]
gums.
[0308] The Mirasil DM 300 000 gum from the company Rhodia may be
mentioned.
[0309] Mention may also be made, for example, in a nonlimiting
manner, of the following mixtures:
[0310] 1) mixtures formed from a hydroxyl-terminated
polydimethylsiloxane (dimethiconol according to CTFA nomenclature)
and from a cyclic polydimethylsiloxane (cyclomethicone according to
CTFA nomenclature), such as the products Q2 1401.RTM. or Dow
Corning 1501 Fluid sold by the company Dow Corning;
[0311] 2) mixtures formed from a polydimethylsiloxane gum with a
cyclic silicone, such as the product SF 1214 Silicone Fluid.RTM.
from General Electric, which is an SE 30.RTM. gum of MW 500 000
(-M.sub.n) dissolved in SF 1202 Silicone Fluid.RTM.
(decamethylcyclopentasiloxane);
[0312] 3) mixtures of two PDMSs of different viscosities,
especially of a PDMS gum and a PDMS oil, such as the products SF
1236.RTM. and CF 1241.RTM. from the company General Electric. The
product SF 1236.RTM. is the mixture of an SE 30.RTM. gum defined
above, with a viscosity of 20 m.sup.2/s, and of an SF 96.RTM. oil
with a viscosity of 5.times.10.sup.6 m.sup.2/s (15% SE 30.RTM. gum
and 85% SF 96.RTM. oil).
[0313] The product CF 1241.RTM. is the mixture of an SE 30.RTM. gum
(33%) and of a PDMS (67%), with a viscosity of 10.sup.-3
m.sup.2/s.
[0314] The organopolysiloxane resins that may be used in accordance
with the invention are crosslinked siloxane systems containing the
following units: R.sub.2SiO.sub.2/2, RSiO.sub.3/2 and SiO.sub.4/2
in which R represents a hydrocarbon-based group containing 1 to 6
carbon atoms or a phenyl group. Among these products, those which
are particularly preferred are those in which R denotes a lower
(C.sub.1-C.sub.4) alkyl group or a phenyl group.
[0315] Among these resins, mention may be made of the product sold
under the name Dow Corning 593.RTM. or those sold under the names
Silicone Fluid SS 4230 and Silicone Fluid SS 4267 by the company
General Electric, which are dimethyl/trimethylpolysiloxanes.
[0316] The organomodified silicones in accordance with the present
invention are silicones as defined above, comprising, in their
general structure, one or more organofunctional groups directly
attached to the siloxane chain or attached via a hydrocarbon-based
group.
[0317] Mention may be made, for example, of the silicones
comprising:
[0318] a) perfluoro groups such as trifluoroalkyls, for instance
those sold by the company General Electric under the names FF.150
Fluorosilicone Fluid.RTM. or by the company Shin-Etsu under the
names X-22-819.RTM., X-22-82.RTM., X-22-821.RTM. and
X-22-822.RTM.;
[0319] b) hydroxyacylamino groups, for instance those described in
Patent Application EP 0 342 834 and in particular the silicone sold
by the company Dow Corning under the name Q2-8413.RTM.;
[0320] c) thiol groups, as in the silicones X 2-8360.RTM. from the
company Dow Corning or GP 72A.RTM. and GP 71.RTM. from Genesee;
[0321] d) non-quaternized amine groups, such as GP 4 Silicone
Fluid.RTM. from Genesee, GP 7100.RTM. from Genesee, Q2 8220.RTM.
from Dow Corning, AFL 40.RTM. from Union Carbide or the silicone
known as Amodimethicone in the CTFA dictionary;
[0322] e) carboxylate groups, for instance the products described
in Patent EP 186 507 from Chisso Corporation;
[0323] f) hydroxylated groups, for instance the polyorganosiloxanes
containing a hydroxyalkyl function, described in French Patent
Application FR 8 516 334.
[0324] Mention may be made most particularly of the product sold by
Dow Corning under the name DC 190;
[0325] g) alkoxylated groups, as in the silicone copolymer F
755.RTM. from SWS Silicones and the products Abil Wax 2428.RTM.,
Abil Wax 2434.RTM. and Abil Wax 2440.RTM. from the company
Goldschmidt;
[0326] h) acyloxyalkyl groups, for instance the
polyorganopolysiloxanes described in Patent Application FR 8 817
433, corresponding to formula (XXIV) below:
##STR00025##
[0327] in which: [0328] R.sub.2 denotes methyl, phenyl, OCOR'' or
hydroxyl, but only one R.sub.2 per silicon atom may be OH; [0329]
R'.sub.2 denotes methyl or phenyl, at least 60 mol % of the
entirety of the R.sub.2 and R'.sub.2 groups being methyl; [0330]
R'' denotes C.sub.8-C.sub.20 alkyl or alkenyl; [0331] R denotes a
linear or branched, divalent C.sub.2-C.sub.18 hydrocarbon-based
alkylene; [0332] r is between 1 and 120 inclusive; [0333] p, q is 0
or is less than 0.5 p, with p+q being between 1 and 30
inclusive:
[0334] the polyorganosiloxanes of formula (XXIV) may contain
groups:
##STR00026##
[0335] in proportions not exceeding 15% of the sum p+q+r;
[0336] i) quaternary ammonium groups, as in the products X2 81
08.RTM. and X2 81 09.RTM. and the product Abil K 3270.RTM. from the
company Goldschmidt;
[0337] j) amphoteric or betaine groups, such as in the product sold
by the company Goldschmidt under the name Abil B 9950.RTM.;
[0338] k) bisulfite groups, for instance in the products sold by
the company Goldschmidt under the names Abil S 201.RTM. and Abil S
255.RTM.;
[0339] l) polyethyleneoxy and/or polypropyleneoxy groups optionally
comprising C.sub.6-C.sub.24 alkyl groups, such as the products
called dimethicone copolyol sold by the company Dow Corning under
the name DC 1248, or the oils Silwet L 722, L 7500, L 77 and L 711
from the company Union Carbide, and the alkyl (C.sub.12) methicone
copolyol sold by the company Dow Corning under the name Q2
5200.
[0340] According to the invention, it is also possible to use
silicones comprising a polysiloxane portion and a portion composed
of a non-silicone organic chain, with one of the two portions
making up the main chain of the polymer and the other being grafted
onto said main chain. These polymers are described, for example, in
Patent Applications EP-A-412 704, EP-A-412 707, EP-A-640 105 and WO
95/00578, EP-A-582 152 and WO 93/23009 and U.S. Pat. No. 4,693,935,
U.S. Pat. No. 4,728,571 and U.S. Pat. No. 4,972,037. These polymers
are preferably anionic or nonionic.
[0341] Such polymers are, for example, copolymers that may be
obtained by free-radical polymerization from the monomer mixture
formed from:
[0342] a) 50% to 90% by weight of tert-butyl acrylate;
[0343] b) 0 to 40% by weight of acrylic acid;
[0344] c) 5% to 40% by weight of silicone macromer of formula
(XXV):
##STR00027##
[0345] where v is a number ranging from 5 to 700; the percentages
by weight being calculated relative to the total weight of the
monomers.
[0346] Other examples of grafted silicone polymers are, in
particular, polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMSs) onto which are grafted,
by means of a connecting link of thiopropylene type, mixed polymer
units of the poly((meth)acrylic acid) type and of the poly(alkyl
(meth)acrylate) type; and polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMSs) onto which
are grafted, by means of a connecting link of thiopropylene type,
polymer units of the poly(isobutyl (meth)acrylate) type.
[0347] According to the invention, all the silicones can also be
used in the form of emulsions, nanoemulsions or microemulsions.
[0348] The particularly preferred polyorganosiloxanes in accordance
with the invention are: [0349] non-volatile silicones selected from
the family of polyalkylsiloxanes with trimethylsilyl end groups,
such as oils having a viscosity of between 0.2 and 2.5 m.sup.2/s at
25.degree. C., for instance the oils of the DC200 series from Dow
Corning, in particular the one with a viscosity of 60 000 cSt, or
of the Silbione 70047 and 47 series, and more particularly the oil
70 047 V 500 000 sold by the company Rhodia Chimie, and
polyalkylsiloxanes with dimethylsilanol end groups, such as
dimethiconols, or polyalkylarylsiloxanes, for instance the oil
Silbione 70641 V 200 sold by the company Rhodia Chimie; [0350]
polysiloxanes containing amino groups, such as amodimethicones or
trimethylsilylamodimethicones.
[0351] The viscosities of the silicones may especially be
determined by the standard ASTM D445-97 (viscometry).
[0352] When the conditioning agent of the composition according to
the invention is a hydrocarbon, it is a linear or branched
C.sub.8-C.sub.30 hydrocarbon.
[0353] Among the hydrocarbons that are liquid at room temperature
corresponding to this definition, mention may be made especially of
isododecane, isohexadecane and isomers thereof (such as
2,2,4,4,6,6-heptamethylnonane), isoeicosane, isotetracosane,
isomers of the said compounds, n-nonadecane, n-dodecane,
n-undecane, n-tridecane and n-pentadecane, liquid petroleum jelly,
and mixtures of these hydrocarbons.
[0354] Use is preferably made according to the invention of
isododecane or an isomer thereof, or liquid petroleum jelly.
[0355] When the conditioning agent is a fatty alcohol, this alcohol
is a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C.sub.8-C.sub.30
alcohol. Among the latter, mention may, for example, be made of
2-butyloctanol, lauryl alcohol, 2-octyldodecanol, oleyl alcohol,
isocetyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetyl
alcohol and behenyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.
[0356] When the conditioning agent is a fatty ester, this ester may
be either an ester of a C.sub.8-C.sub.30 fatty acid and a
C.sub.1-C.sub.30 alcohol, and especially an ester of a
C.sub.8-C.sub.30 fatty acid and a C.sub.8-C.sub.30 fatty alcohol,
or an ester of a C.sub.1-C.sub.7 acid or diacid and a
C.sub.8-C.sub.30 fatty alcohol.
[0357] Among these esters, mention may, for example, be made of
ethyl, isopropyl, 2-ethylhexyl and 2-octyldecyl palmitate,
isopropyl, butyl, cetyl and 2-octyldecyl myristate, butyl and hexyl
stearate, hexyl and 2-hexyldecyl laurate, isononyl isononanoate,
dioctyl malate, myristyl myristate, cetyl palmitate, and mixtures
thereof.
[0358] This ester may also be an ester of a polyol and especially
of glycerol, such as a natural or synthetic glyceride. Natural
triglycerides that may be mentioned include plant oils such as
avocado oil, olive oil, wheatgerm oil, sunflower oil, argan oil,
corn oil, soybean oil, marrow oil, grapeseed oil, sesame seed oil,
hazelnut oil, apricot oil, macadamia oil, arara oil, castor oil,
rapeseed oil, coconut oil, sweet almond oil, safflower oil,
candlenut oil, camellina oil, tamanu oil, babassu oil and pracaxi
oil, and mixtures thereof.
[0359] The ceramides or ceramide analogues, such as glycoceramides,
that may be used as conditioning agent in the compositions
according to the invention are known per se and are natural or
synthetic molecules that may correspond to the general formula
(XXVI) below:
##STR00028##
[0360] in which: [0361] R.sub.1 denotes a linear or branched,
saturated or unsaturated alkyl group, derived from
C.sub.14-C.sub.30 fatty acids, it being possible for this group to
be substituted with a hydroxyl group in the alpha position, or a
hydroxyl group in the omega position esterified with a saturated or
unsaturated C.sub.16-C.sub.30 fatty acid; [0362] R.sub.2 denotes a
hydrogen atom or a (glycosyl).sub.n, (galactosyl).sub.m or
sulfogalactosyl group, in which n is an integer ranging from 1 to 4
and m is an integer ranging from 1 to 8; [0363] R.sub.3 denotes a
C.sub.15-C.sub.26 hydrocarbon-based group which is saturated or
unsaturated in the alpha position, it being possible for this group
to be substituted with one or more C.sub.1-C.sub.14 alkyl
groups;
[0364] it being understood that, in the case of natural ceramides
or glycoceramides, R.sub.3 can also denote a C.sub.15-C.sub.26
.alpha.-hydroxyalkyl group, the hydroxyl group being optionally
esterified with a C.sub.16-C.sub.30 .alpha.-hydroxy acid.
[0365] The ceramides which are preferred in the context of the
present invention are those described by Downing in Arch.
Dermatol., Vol. 123, 1381-1384, 1987, or those described in French
Patent FR 2 673 179.
[0366] The ceramide(s) that are more particularly preferred
according to the invention are the compounds for which R.sub.1
denotes a saturated or unsaturated alkyl derived from
C.sub.16-C.sub.22 fatty acids; R.sub.2 denotes a hydrogen atom; and
R.sub.3 denotes a saturated linear C.sub.15 group.
[0367] Such compounds are, for example: [0368]
N-linoleyldihydrosphingosine, [0369] N-oleyldihydrosphingosine,
[0370] N-palmitoyldihydrosphingosine, [0371]
N-stearoyldihydrosphingosine, [0372]
N-behenyldihydrosphingosine,
[0373] or mixtures of these compounds.
[0374] Even more preferentially, ceramides are used for which
R.sub.1 denotes a saturated or unsaturated alkyl group derived from
fatty acids; R.sub.2 denotes a galactosyl or sulfogalactosyl group;
and R.sub.3 denotes a --CH.dbd.CH--(CH.sub.2).sub.12--CH.sub.3
group.
[0375] Among all of these conditioning agents, preference is given
to the use of one or more conditioning agents selected from
silicones such as organosiloxanes and cationic polymers.
[0376] The composition according to the invention preferably
contains from 0.01% to 20% by weight, and more preferably from
0.05% to 10% by weight of conditioning agent(s), relative to the
total weight of the composition.
[0377] The composition according to the invention may also comprise
one or more conventional additives that are well known in the art,
other than the compounds defined previously. As examples of
additives that may be used according to the invention, mention may
be made of anionic surfactants, amphoteric or zwitterionic
surfactants, nonionic surfactants, proteins, protein hydrolysates,
vitamins, reducing agents, plasticizers, softeners, antifoams,
moisturizers, pigments, clays, mineral fillers, UV-screening
agents, abrasive agents (pumice, apricot kernel powder), mineral
colloids, peptizers, solubilizers, fragrances, preservatives,
nacreous agents, propellants, antidandruff agents (for example,
zinc pyrithione, octopirox, selenium sulfide, ellagic acid and
derivatives), agents for combating hair loss or agents for
promoting hair regrowth; these additives being other than the
compounds defined above.
[0378] A person skilled in the art will take care to select the
optional additive(s) and the amount thereof such that they do not
harm the properties of the compositions of the present
invention.
[0379] The additive(s) are generally present in the composition
according to the invention in an amount ranging from 0 to 20% by
weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0380] The compositions according to the invention may be provided
in all the formulation forms conventionally used for a topical
application and in particular in the form of aqueous or
aqueous/alcoholic solutions, of oil-in-water (O/W), water-in-oil
(W/O) or multiple (triple: W/O/W or O/W/O) emulsions, of aqueous
gels or of dispersions of a fatty phase in an aqueous phase using
spherules, it being possible for these spherules to be polymeric
nanoparticles, such as nanospheres and nanocapsules, or lipid
vesicles of ionic and/or nonionic type (liposomes, niosomes or
oleosomes). These compositions are prepared according to the usual
methods.
[0381] In addition, the compositions used according to the
invention can be more or less fluid and can have the appearance of
a white or coloured cream, of an ointment, of a milk, of a lotion,
of a serum, of a paste or of a foam. They can optionally be applied
to the keratin materials in aerosol form. They can also be in solid
form, for example in the form of a stick.
[0382] Of course, the person skilled in the art will take care to
choose the optional compound or compounds to be added to the
composition according to the invention so that the advantageous
properties intrinsically attached to the composition in accordance
with the invention are not, or not substantially, adversely
affected by the envisaged addition or additions.
[0383] As indicated above, a further subject of the invention is a
method for the nontherapeutic cosmetic treatment of keratin
materials, in particular the hair, comprising the application, to
said materials, of a composition as described above.
[0384] This application may or may not be followed by rinsing.
[0385] When the application of the composition is followed by a
rinsing operation, the leave-in time of the composition on the
keratin materials ranges from a few seconds to 60 minutes, better
still from 5 seconds to 30 minutes, even better still from 10
seconds to 10 minutes.
[0386] Whether in rinsed mode or non-rinsed mode, the application
of the composition may take place in the presence of heat. The
heating device may be a hairdryer, a hood dryer, a curling iron or
a flat iron. The heating temperature may be between 40.degree. C.
and 220.degree. C.
[0387] The application of the composition according to the
invention to the hair may take place on dry hair or on wet hair. It
may in particular be carried out after a shampooing operation or
after a pretreatment at acidic or basic pH.
[0388] A subject of the invention is also the use of a composition
according to the invention for caring for and/or shaping keratin
materials, especially keratin fibres and in particular human
keratin fibres such as the hair.
[0389] The examples that follow are intended to illustrate the
invention without, however, being limiting in nature.
EXAMPLE 1
[0390] The rinse-out care composition (A) is prepared from the
ingredients indicated in the table below, the amounts of which are
expressed as weight percentages of active material relative to the
total weight of the composition.
TABLE-US-00001 Composition A (invention)
3-Aminopropyltriethoxysilane 1 Potato starch acetate (Perfectamyl 1
AC from Avebe) Hydroxyethylcellulose (Natrosol 250 0.2 HHR from
Ashland) C16/C18 cetylstearyl alcohol (50/50) 3.5 Mixture of
myristyl myristate, cetyl 0.7 palmitate and stearyl stearate
(Miraceti from Laserson) Behenyltrimethylammonium chloride 1.58 as
a 79% solution in isopropanol (Genamin KDMP from Clariant) Lactic
acid qs pH 9 Fragrance qs Chlorhexidine digluconate 0.2 Water qs
100%
[0391] When applied as a rinse-out hair conditioner, composition
(A) gives the hair mass, volume and also a uniform feel from the
root to the end.
[0392] Furthermore, this composition makes it possible to
facilitate the shaping of fine hair and to give a better curl
definition to curly hair.
EXAMPLE 2
[0393] Composition (B) is prepared from the ingredients indicated
in the table below, the amounts of which are expressed as weight
percentages of active material relative to the total weight of the
composition.
TABLE-US-00002 Composition B (invention)
3-Aminopropyltriethoxysilane 5 Hydroxypropyl corn starch 4.4
phosphate (Structure ZEA from Akzo Nobel) Hydroxyethylcellulose
(Natrosol 0.7 250 HHR from Ashland) Lactic acid 1.75 pH agent qs pH
9 Deionized water qs 100%
[0394] Composition (C) is prepared from the ingredients indicated
in the table below, the amounts of which are expressed as weight
percentages of active material relative to the total weight of the
composition.
TABLE-US-00003 Composition C Bis(diglyceryl) poly(2-acyladipate)
0.15 (Softisan 649 from Sasol) Amino silicone in an aqueous
emulsion 0.96 containing 60% AM (Dow Corning 2-8299 Cationic
Emulsion from Dow Corning) Hydroxyethylcellulose (Natrosol 250 0.2
HHR from Ashland) C16/C18 cetylstearyl alcohol (50/50) 3 Mixture of
myristyl myristate, cetyl 0.25 palmitate and stearyl stearate
(Miraceti from Laserson) Lauryl PEG/PPG-18/18 methicone at 0.18 72%
active material (Dow Corning 5200 Formulation Aid - Dow Corning)
Behenyltrimethylammonium chloride as 1.58 a 79% solution in
isopropanol (Genamin KDMP from Clariant) pH agent qs pH 3.5 PEG-180
(Polyethylene glycol) 2 L-Glycine 0.01 D-Panthenol 0.1 Vitamin E
acetate 0.1 2-Oleamido-1,3-octadecanediol 0.01 Fragrance qs
Preserving agents, dyes qs Water qs 100%
[0395] Compositions B and C are conditioned in a two-bodied device
consisting of two compartments and of a dispensing head for
dispensing a mixture consisting of equal amounts of compositions B
and C.
[0396] When applied as a rinse-out hair conditioner, the mixture of
compositions (B) and (C) (50/50 by weight) gives the hair mass,
volume and also a uniform feel from the root to the end.
[0397] Furthermore, this composition makes it possible to
facilitate the shaping of fine hair and to give a better curl
definition to curly hair.
* * * * *