U.S. patent application number 15/313989 was filed with the patent office on 2018-04-26 for composition for protecting the keratin materials from sun.
This patent application is currently assigned to L'OREAL. The applicant listed for this patent is L'OREAL. Invention is credited to Tu LUAN, Yan WANG.
Application Number | 20180110686 15/313989 |
Document ID | / |
Family ID | 54832713 |
Filed Date | 2018-04-26 |
United States Patent
Application |
20180110686 |
Kind Code |
A1 |
LUAN; Tu ; et al. |
April 26, 2018 |
COMPOSITION FOR PROTECTING THE KERATIN MATERIALS FROM SUN
Abstract
Disclosed is a cosmetic composition comprising: a) at least one
UV filter; b) at least one SPF booster chosen from hollow
particles, and/or at least one composite particle in spherical
form, having a mean size of between 0.1 and 30 .mu.m comprising at
least one particulate UV-screening agent and a core constituted of
at least one inorganic material and/or of at least one organic
material; c) at least one anti-oxidation active ingredient chosen
from I) a compound according to formula (I) wherein each X
independently represents --OPO.sub.3Y, wherein Y is selected from
hydrogen, Li, Na and K; II) a dimer peptide according to formula
(II); III) a tocopherol or its derivatives; and IV) a mixture
thereof. ##STR00001##
Inventors: |
LUAN; Tu; (Shanghai, CN)
; WANG; Yan; (Shanghai, CN) |
|
Applicant: |
Name |
City |
State |
Country |
Type |
L'OREAL |
Paris |
|
FR |
|
|
Assignee: |
L'OREAL
Paris
FR
|
Family ID: |
54832713 |
Appl. No.: |
15/313989 |
Filed: |
June 11, 2014 |
PCT Filed: |
June 11, 2014 |
PCT NO: |
PCT/CN2014/079678 |
371 Date: |
November 25, 2016 |
Current U.S.
Class: |
1/1 |
Current CPC
Class: |
A61K 8/0254 20130101;
A61K 8/894 20130101; A61K 8/891 20130101; A61K 2800/622 20130101;
A61K 8/64 20130101; A61K 2800/43 20130101; A61K 8/9794 20170801;
A61Q 5/00 20130101; A61K 8/44 20130101; A61K 8/26 20130101; A61K
8/19 20130101; A61K 2800/412 20130101; A61K 2800/651 20130101; A61K
8/73 20130101; A61K 8/8152 20130101; A61K 2800/621 20130101; A61K
8/0279 20130101; A61K 8/498 20130101; A61Q 17/04 20130101; A61K
8/375 20130101; A61K 8/37 20130101; A61K 8/678 20130101; A61K 8/42
20130101; A61K 8/20 20130101; A61K 8/29 20130101 |
International
Class: |
A61K 8/02 20060101
A61K008/02; A61Q 17/04 20060101 A61Q017/04; A61K 8/73 20060101
A61K008/73; A61K 8/894 20060101 A61K008/894; A61K 8/37 20060101
A61K008/37; A61K 8/19 20060101 A61K008/19; A61K 8/42 20060101
A61K008/42; A61K 8/26 20060101 A61K008/26; A61K 8/891 20060101
A61K008/891; A61K 8/20 20060101 A61K008/20; A61K 8/29 20060101
A61K008/29; A61K 8/9794 20060101 A61K008/9794; A61K 8/67 20060101
A61K008/67; A61K 8/49 20060101 A61K008/49; A61K 8/81 20060101
A61K008/81 |
Claims
1. A composition, comprising: a) at least one UV filter; b) at
least one SPF booster which is a hollow particle, and/or at least
one composite particle in a spherical form, having a mean size of
between 0.1 and 30 .mu.m comprising at least one particulate
UV-screening agent and a core comprising at least one inorganic
material and/or at least one organic material; and c) at least one
anti-oxidation active ingredient selected from the group consisting
of I) a compound according to formula (I) ##STR00011## wherein each
X independently represents --OPO.sub.3Y, wherein Y is hydrogen, Li,
Na, or K; II) a dimer peptide according to formula (II):
##STR00012## III) a tocopherol or a derivative thereof; and IV) a
mixture thereof.
2. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the at least one
UV filter is selected from the group consisting of an organic UV
filter, an inorganic UV filter, or a mixture thereof.
3. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the at least one
UV filter comprises from 0.5% to 20% by weight of at least one
organic UV filter, relative to a total weight of the
composition.
4. The composition according to claim 2, wherein the at last one UV
filter comprises from 0.01% to 10% by weight of at least one
inorganic UV filter, relative to a total weight of the
composition.
5. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the composition
comprises the SPF booster which is made from at least one material
selected from the group consisting of a copolymer of (meth)acrylic
acid, (meth)acrylates, and/or styrene; glass; silica; or a mixture
thereof.
6. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the composition
comprises the SPF booster which is in a form of a particle with a
particle size from 100 to 380 nm.
7. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the composition
comprises the composite particle which contains a core comprising
at least one organic material and/or an inorganic material, in
which are included particles of particulate UV-screen agent.
8. The composition according to claim 7, wherein a material of the
core of the spherical composite particles is selected from the
group consisting of a poly(meth)acrylate, a polyamide, a silicone,
a polyurethane, a polyethylene, a polypropylene, a polystyrene, a
polycaprolactam, a polysaccharide, a polytetrafluoroethylene, a
polypeptide, a polyvinyl derivative, a wax, a polyester, a
polyether, and a mixture thereof.
9. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the particulate
UV-screening agent is inorganic and is a metal oxide, in coated or
uncoated form.
10. The composition according to claim 7, wherein the spherical
composite particles comprise: i) spherical particles A.sub.1 having
a mean size of greater than 0.1 .mu.m and less than 1 .mu.m, the
surface of said particles A.sub.1 being at least partially covered
with the at least one particulate solid UV-screening agent; ii) and
optionally spherical particles A.sub.2 having a mean size of
greater than or equal to 2 .mu.m, the surface of said particles
A.sub.2 being at least partially covered with the at least one
particulate solid UV-screening agent.
11. The composition according to claim 7, wherein the spherical
composite particles comprise: i) spherical particles A.sub.1 having
a mean size of greater than 0.1 .mu.m and less than 1 .mu.m, the
surface of said particles A.sub.1 being at least partially covered
with titanium dioxide particles and the core of the particles
comprising styrene/methyl methacrylate copolymer; ii) spherical
particles A.sub.2 having a mean size of greater than or equal to 2
.mu.m, the surface of said particles A.sub.2 being covered with at
least titanium dioxide particles and the core of the particles
comprising poly(methyl methacrylate).
12. The composition according to claim 1, comprising from 0.1% to
10% by weight of the SPF booster and/or the composite particle in
spherical form, relative to a total weight of the composition.
13. The composition according to claim 1, comprising from 0.001% to
10% by weight of the anti-oxidation active ingredient, relative to
a total weight of the composition.
14. The composition according to claim 1, further comprising at
least one polysaccharide.
15. The composition of claim 14, wherein the at least one
polysaccharide is a gum.
16. The composition according to claim 1, further comprises at
least one pigment.
17. The composition according to claim 1, further comprising at
least one filler of mineral or organic nature.
18. The composition according to claim 1, which is in a form of an
aqueous or aqueous-alcoholic solution, of an oil-in-water or a
water-in-oil or a multiple emulsion, of an aqueous gel, of a
dispersion of a fatty phase in an aqueous phase via polymeric
microparticles, of a lipid vesicle of ionic and/or nonionic type,
of a microemulsion, or of a thin film.
19. A method for preparing the composition according to claim 1,
the method comprising mixing the at least one UV filter, the at
least one SPF booster and/or the at least one composite particle in
spherical form, and the at least one anti-oxidation active
ingredient.
20. A method for producing a composition for protecting a keratin
material from UV radiation and pro-oxidation, the method
comprising: mixing a) at least one UV filter; b) at least one SPF
booster which is a hollow particle, and/or at least one composite
particle in a spherical form, having a mean size of between 0.1 and
30 .mu.m comprising at least one particulate UV-screening agent and
a core comprising at least one inorganic material and/or at least
one organic material; c) at least one anti-oxidation active
ingredient selected from the group consisting of I) a compound
according to formula (I) ##STR00013## wherein each X independently
represents --OPO.sub.3Y, wherein Y is hydrogen, Li, Na, or K; II) a
dimer peptide according to formula (II): ##STR00014## III) a
tocopherol or a derivative thereof; and IV) a mixture thereof.
Description
FIELD OF THE INVENTION
[0001] The present invention relates to a composition that is
capable of protecting the keratin materials from hazardous effect
caused by sun. More particularly, the present invention relates to
a composition comprising UV filter(s), SPF booster(s) and/or
composite particle(s) in spherical form, and anti-oxidation active
ingredient(s). The present invention also relates to the method of
preparing a composition as such, and use thereof for protecting the
keratin materials from UV radiation and pro-oxidation.
BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION
[0002] Keratin materials, such as the skin, the scalp, and the
hair, are continuously exposed to many hazardous environmental
agents, including UV radiation, air pollutants, such as ozone and
ionizing radiation, which generate Reactive Oxygen Species (ROS),
among which, the exposure to the sun has caused to the keratin
materials many hazardous problems, such as sunburn and aging caused
by UV rays and pro-oxidants.
[0003] UVB rays, with a short wavelength and highly
energy-intensive, are responsible for sunburns of the skin. UVA
rays are less energy-intensive, but 20 times more numerous than UVB
rays. The UV radiation can induce photoaging of the keratin
materials, such as the skin, the scalp, and the hair.
[0004] Besides, the skin, the scalp and the hair are directly and
frequently exposed to environmental pro-oxidants caused by the sun
exposure and are particularly sensitive to the action of oxidative
stress, its outermost lay serves as a barrier to oxidative damage
that may occur. In most circumstances, the oxidizing agent is
generally neutralized after reaction with keratin materials, but
the reaction products formed may be responsible for cell and tissue
damage. The stratum corneum, the skin barrier is the site of
contact between air and skin tissue and structure biphasic
lipid/protein is a crucial determinant of the barrier function of
the skin. These elements can react with oxidants and be altered,
which will help scaling phenomena.
[0005] Thus, the harmful effects of UV lights and peroxidation on
the keratin materials affect cellular respiration of these keratin
materials and result in accelerated aging of the skin with a dull
complexion and premature formation of wrinkles and fine lines, as
well as a decrease in the strength of the hair also take a dull
appearance. In addition, because of the UV and the peroxidation,
skin and hair gets dirty faster. In addition, the UV and the
peroxidation can cause irritation and allergic phenomena and
inflammation on the skin.
[0006] To fight against the UV rays and the pro-oxidants, various
compositions comprising UV filters and/or anti-oxidation compounds
were described. However, there still remains a need for a novel
composition for protecting the keratin materials from hazardous
effects caused by sun exposure, which possess desired sun
protection factor (SPF) value, and an improved anti-oxidation
effect, and stable over time.
SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION
[0007] According to one aspect of the present invention, there is
provided a composition comprising: [0008] a) at least one UV
filter; [0009] b) at least one SPF booster chosen from hollow
particles, and/or at least one composite particle in spherical
form, having a mean size of between 0.1 and 30 .mu.m comprising at
least one particulate UV-screening agent and a core constituted of
at least one inorganic material and/or of at least one organic
material; and [0010] c) at least one anti-oxidation active
ingredient chosen from [0011] I) a compound of formula (I)
[0011] ##STR00002## [0012] wherein, [0013] each X independently
represents --OPO.sub.3Y; [0014] Y is selected from hydrogen, Li, Na
and K; [0015] II) a dimer peptide of formula (II):
[0015] ##STR00003## [0016] III) a tocopherol or its derivatives;
and [0017] IV) a mixture thereof.
[0018] According to another aspect of the present invention, there
is provided a method for preparing a composition according to the
present invention comprising mixing at least one UV filter, at
least one SPF booster and/or at least one composite particle in
spherical form, and at least one anti-oxidation active ingredient
as described above.
[0019] According to another aspect of the present invention, there
is provided a method for protecting the keratin materials, such as
the skin, the scalp, and the hair, in particular, the skin, from UV
radiation and pro-oxidation comprising application of the
composition according to the present invention to the keratin
materials.
[0020] According to one aspect of the present invention, there is
provided use of a combination of at least one UV filter, at least
one SPF booster and/or at least one composite particle in spherical
form, and at least one anti-oxidation active ingredient in
producing a composition as described above.
[0021] The composition according to the present invention can be
used to protecting the keratin materials, especially the skin, the
scalp and the hair, from UV radiation and pro-oxidation. The
composition has an improved sun protection factor (SPF) value, and
an improved anti-oxidation effect, and is stable over time.
[0022] Advantageously, the composition of the present invention can
be used as a makeup composition, such as foundation, BB cream, or
makeup base. It possesses light sensory and perfect makeup coverage
when the composition contains additionally fillers and/or
pigments.
DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION
[0023] The inventors of the present invention surprisedly found
that with the combination of an UV filter, a SPF booster and/or at
least one composite particle in spherical form, and an
anti-oxidation active ingredient, the composition according to the
present invention has an improved effect on UV protection and an
improved anti-oxidation effect.
[0024] According to one aspect of the present invention, there is
provided a composition comprising: [0025] a) at least one UV
filter; [0026] b) at least one SPF booster chosen from hollow
particles, and/or at least one composite particle in spherical
form, having a mean size of between 0.1 and 30 .mu.m comprising at
least one particulate UV-screening agent and a core constituted of
at least one inorganic material and/or of at least one organic
material; and [0027] c) at least one anti-oxidation active
ingredient chosen from [0028] I) a compound of formula (I)
##STR00004##
[0029] wherein each X independently represents --OPO.sub.3Y,
wherein Y is selected from hydrogen, Li, Na and K; [0030] II) a
dimer peptide of formula (II):
[0030] ##STR00005## [0031] III) tocopherol or its derivatives; and
[0032] IV) a mixture thereof.
[0033] The composition is preferably a cosmetic composition, more
particularly a makeup composition.
[0034] The composition is for topical application.
[0035] The composition according to the present application may
comprise at least one polysaccharide.
[0036] Preferably, the composition according to the present
application may comprise at least one pigment.
[0037] The composition according to the present application may
comprise at least one inorganic salt, for example selected from
sodium, potassium, magenium chloride and sulfate.
[0038] The term "mean size of the particles" in this invention is
understood to mean the parameter D [4,3] measured using a
"Mastersizer 2000" particle size analyser (Malvern). The light
intensity scattered by the particles as a function of the angle at
which they are lit is coverted to size distribution accordingly to
Mie theory. The parameter D [4,3] is measured; this is the mean
diameter of the sphere having the same volume as the particle. For
a spherical particle, reference will often be made to the "mean
diameter".
[0039] The term "mean elementary size" means the size of
non-aggregated particles.
[0040] The term "keratin materials" means the skin (body, face,
area around the eyes), hair, eyelashes, eyebrows, body hair, nails,
lips or mucous membranes.
[0041] UV Filter
[0042] The composition of the present invention comprises at least
one UV filter.
[0043] There is no limitation to the type of the UV filter. Two or
more types of UV filters may be used in the composition of the
invention. Thus, a single type of UV filter or a combination of
different types of UV filters may be used.
[0044] The UV filter can be selected from inorganic UV filters,
organic UV filters, and mixtures thereof.
[0045] Organic UV Filter
[0046] The composition according to the present invention may
comprise an organic UV filter.
[0047] The organic UV filter used for the present invention may be
active in the UV-A and/or UV-B region. The organic UV filter may be
hydrophilic and/or lipophilic.
[0048] The organic UV filter may be solid or liquid. The terms
"solid" and "liquid" mean solid and liquid, respectively, at
25.degree. C. under 1 atm.
[0049] The organic UV filter can be selected from the group
consisting of anthranilic compounds; dibenzoylmethane compounds;
cinnamic compounds; salicylic compounds; camphor compounds;
benzophenone compounds; .beta.,.beta.-diphenylacrylate compounds;
triazine compounds; benzotriazole compounds; benzalmalonate
compounds; benzimidazole compounds; imidazoline compounds;
bis-benzoazolyl compounds; p-aminobenzoic acid (PABA) compounds;
methylenebis(hydroxyphenylbenzotriazole) compounds; benzoxazole
compounds; screening polymers and screening silicones; dimers
derived from .alpha.-alkylstyrene; 4,4-diarylbutadienes compounds;
guaiazulene and derivatives thereof; rutin and derivatives thereof;
flavonoids; bioflavonoids; oryzanol and derivatives thereof; quinic
acid and derivatives thereof; phenols; retinol; cysteine; aromatic
amino acids; peptides having an aromatic amino acid residue; and
mixtures thereof.
[0050] Mention may be made, as examples of the organic UV
filter(s), of those denoted below under their INCI names, and
mixtures thereof. [0051] Anthranilic compounds: Menthyl
anthranilate, marketed under the trademark "Neo Heliopan MA" by
Haarmann and Reimer. [0052] Dibenzoylmethane compounds: Butyl
methoxydibenzoylmethane, marketed in particular under the trademark
"Parsol 1789" by Hoffmann-La Roche; and isopropyl di benzoyl
methane. [0053] Cinnamic compounds: Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate,
marketed in particular under the trademark "Parsol MCX" by DSM
Nutritional Products; isopropyl methoxycinnamate; isopropoxy
methoxycinnamate; isoamyl methoxycinnamate, marketed under the
trademark "Neo Heliopan E 1000" by Haarmann and Reimer; cinoxate
(2-ethoxyethyl-4-methoxy cinnamate); DEA methoxycinnamate;
diisopropyl methylcinnamate; and glyceryl ethylhexanoate
dimethoxycinnamate. [0054] Salicylic compounds: Homosalate
(homomentyl salicylate), marketed under the trademark "Eusolex HMS"
by Rona/EM Industries; ethylhexyl salicylate, marketed under the
trademark "Neo Heliopan OS" by Haarmann and Reimer; glycol
salicylate; butyloctyl salicylate; phenyl salicylate;
dipropyleneglycol salicylate, marketed under the trademark "Dipsal"
by Scher; and TEA salicylate, marketed under the trademark "Neo
Heliopan TS" by Haarmann and Reimer. [0055] Camphor compounds, in
particular, benzylidenecamphor derivatives: 3-benzylidene camphor,
manufactured under the trademark "Mexoryl SD" by Chimex;
4-methylbenzylidene camphor, marketed under the trademark "Eusolex
6300" by Merck; benzylidene camphor sulfonic acid, manufactured
under the trademark "Mexoryl SL" by Chimex; camphor benzalkonium
methosulfate, manufactured under the trademark "Mexoryl SO" by
Chimex; terephthalylidene dicamphor sulfonic acid, manufactured
under the trademark "Mexoryl SX" by Chimex; and
polyacrylamidomethyl benzylidene camphor, manufactured under the
trademark "Mexoryl SW" by Chimex. [0056] Benzophenone compounds:
Benzophenone-1 (2,4-dihydroxybenzophenone), marketed under the
trademark "Uvinul 400" by BASF; benzophenone-2
(Tetrahydroxybenzophenone), marketed under the trademark "Uvinul
D50" by BASF; Benzophenone-3 (2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone) or
oxybenzone, marketed under the trademark "Uvinul M40" by BASF;
benzophenone-4 (hydroxymethoxy benzophonene sulfonic acid),
marketed under the trademark "Uvinul MS40" by BASF; benzophenone-5
(Sodium hydroxymethoxy benzophenone Sulfonate); benzophenone-6
(dihydroxy dimethoxy benzophenone); marketed under the trademark
"Helisorb 11" by Norquay; benzophenone-8, marketed under the
trademark "Spectra-Sorb UV-24" by American Cyanamid; benzophenone-9
(Disodium dihydroxy dimethoxy benzophenonedisulfonate), marketed
under the trademark "Uvinul DS-49" by BASF; and benzophenone-12,
and n-hexyl 2-(4-diethylamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl)benzoate (UVINUL A+
by BASF). [0057] .beta.,.beta.-Diphenylacrylate compounds:
Octocrylene, marketed in particular under the trademark "Uvinul
N539" by BASF; and Etocrylene, marketed in particular under the
trademark "Uvinul N35" by BASF. [0058] Triazine compounds:
Diethylhexyl butamido triazone, marketed under the trademark
"Uvasorb HEB" by Sigma 3V; 2,4,6-tris(dineopentyl
4'-aminobenzalmalonate)-s-triazine, bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol
methoxyphenyl triazine marketed under the trademark TINOSORB S by
CIBA GEIGY, and ethylhexyl triazone marketed under the trademark
UVINUL T150 by BASF. [0059] Benzotriazole compounds, in particular,
phenylbenzotriazole derivatives:
2-(2H-benzotriazole-2-yl)-6-dodecyl-4-methylpheno, branched and
linear; and those described in U.S. Pat. No. 5,240,975. [0060]
Benzalmalonate compounds: Dineopentyl 4'-methoxybenzalmalonate, and
polyorganosiloxane comprising benzalmalonate functional groups,
such as polysilicone-15, marketed under the trademark "Parsol SLX"
by Hoffmann-LaRoche. [0061] Benzimidazole compounds, in particular,
phenylbenzimidazole derivatives: Phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid,
marketed in particular under the trademark "Eusolex 232" by Merck,
and disodium phenyl dibenzimidazole tetrasulfonate, marketed under
the trademark "Neo Heliopan AP" by Haarmann and Reimer. [0062]
Imidazoline compounds: Ethylhexyl dimethoxybenzylidene
dioxoimidazoline propionate. [0063] Bis-benzoazolyl compounds: The
derivatives as described in EP-669,323 and U.S. Pat. No. 2,463,264.
[0064] Para-aminobenzoic acid compounds: PABA (p-aminobenzoic
acid), ethyl PABA, Ethyl dihydroxypropyl PABA, pentyl dimethyl
PABA, ethylhexyl dimethyl PABA, marketed in particular under the
trademark "Escalol 507" by ISP, glyceryl PABA, and PEG-25 PABA,
marketed under the trademark "Uvinul P25" by BASF. [0065] Methylene
bis-(hydroxyphenylbenzotriazol) compounds, such as
2,2'-methylenebis[6-(2H-benzotriazol-2-yl)-4-methyl-phenol]
marketed in the solid form under the trademark "Mixxim BB/200" by
Fairmount Chemical,
2,2'-methylenebis[6-(2H-benzotriazol-2-yl)-4-(1,1,3,3-tetramethylbutyl)ph-
enol] marketed in the micronized form in aqueous dispersion under
the trademark "Tinosorb M" by BASF, or under the trademark "Mixxim
BB/100" by Fairmount Chemical, and the derivatives as described in
U.S. Pat. Nos. 5,237,071 and 5,166,355, GB-2,303,549,
DE-197,26,184, and EP-893,119, and
[0066] Drometrizole trisiloxane, marketed under the trademark
"Silatrizole" by Rhodia Chimie or-"Mexoryl XL" by L'Oreal, as
represented below.
##STR00006## [0067] Benzoxazole compounds:
2,4-bis[5-1(dimethylpropyl)benzoxazol-2-yl-(4-phenyl)imino]-6-(2-ethylhex-
yl)imino-1,3,5-triazine, marketed under the trademark of Uvasorb
K2A by Sigma 3V. [0068] Screening polymers and screening silicones:
The silicones described in WO 93/04665. [0069] Dimers derived from
.alpha.-alkylstyrene: The dimers described in DE-19855649. [0070]
4,4-Diarylbutadiene compounds:
1,1-dicarboxy(2,2'-dimethylpropyI)-4,4-diphenylbutadiene.
[0071] It is preferable that the organic UV filter(s) be selected
from the group consisting of:
[0072] butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate,
homosalate, ethylhexyl salicylate, octocrylene, phenylbenzimidazole
sulfonic acid, benzophenone-3, benzophenone-4, benzophenone-5,
n-hexyl 2-(4-diethylamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl)benzoate,
1,1'-(1,4-piperazinediyl)bis[1-[2-[4-(diethylamino)-2-hydroxybenzoyl]phen-
yl]-methano ne 4-methylbenzylidene camphor, terephthalylidene
dicamphor sulfonic acid, disodium phenyl dibenzimidazole
tetrasulfonate, ethylhexyl triazone, bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol
methoxyphenyl triazine, diethylhexyl butamido triazone,
2,4,6-tris(dineopentyl 4'-aminobenzalmalonate)-s-triazine,
2,4,6-tris(diisobutyl 4'-aminobenzalmalonate)-s-triazine,
2,4-bis-(n-butyl
4'-aminobenzalmalonate)-6-[(3-{1,3,3,3-tetramethyl-1-[(trimethylsilyloxy]-
-disiloxanyl}propyl)amino]-s-triazine,
2,4,6-tris-(di-phenyl)-triazine, 2,4,6-tris-(ter-phenyl)-triazine,
methylene bis-benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutylphenol, drometrizole
trisiloxane, polysilicone-15, dineopentyl 4'-methoxybenzalmalonate,
1,1-dicarboxy(2,2'-dimethylpropyl)-4,4-diphenylbutadiene,
2,4-bis[5-1
(dimethylpropyl)benzoxazol-2-yl-(4-phenyl)imino]-6-(2-ethylhexyl)imino-1,-
3,5-triazine, camphor benzylkonium methosulfate, and mixtures
thereof.
[0073] If presents, the organic UV filter is present in the
composition of the invention in an amount of generally from 0.5% to
20%, preferably from 1% to 10% and more preferably from 3% to 7.5%
by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0074] Inorganic UV Filter
[0075] The composition according to the present invention may
comprise an inorganic UV filter.
[0076] The inorganic UV filter used for the present invention may
be active in the UV-A and/or UV-B region.
[0077] The inorganic UV filter is generally chosen from metal
oxides, preferably titanium, zinc or iron oxides, or mixtures
thereof, and more particularly from titanium dioxide (amorphous or
crystalline in rutile and/or anatase form), zinc oxide and mixtures
thereof. Particularly preferably, the inorganic UV-screening agent
is TiO.sub.2.
[0078] These metal oxides may be in the form of particles, having a
mean elementary size generally of less than 200 nm. Advantageously,
the metal oxide particles used have a mean elementary size of less
than or equal to 0.15 .mu.m.
[0079] These metal oxides may also be in the form of layers,
preferably multilayers with a mean thickness generally of less than
0.2 .mu.m.
[0080] The inorganic UV filters in accordance with the invention
preferably have a mean elementary particle size of greater than 5
nm and less than 200 nm. According to one particularly preferred
embodiment of the invention, this size preferably ranges from 10 nm
to 150 nm.
[0081] According to one embodiment of the invention, the inorganic
UV filters may be titanium oxide-based nanopigments.
[0082] The inorganic UV filters may be coated or uncoated.
[0083] The coated inorganic UV filters are pigments that have
undergone one or more surface treatments of chemical, electronic,
mechanochemical and/or mechanical nature with compounds as
described, for example, in Cosmetics & Toiletries, February
1990, Vol. 105, pp. 53-64, such as amino acids, beeswax, fatty
acids, fatty alcohols, anionic surfactants, lecithins, sodium,
potassium, zinc, iron or aluminium salts of fatty acids, metal
alkoxides (titanium or aluminium alkoxides), polyethylene,
silicones, proteins (collagen, elastin), alkanolamines, silicon
oxides, metal oxides or sodium hexametaphosphate.
[0084] Preferably, the inorganic UV filters may be chosen from
coated or uncoated Titanium dioxide.
[0085] The coated pigments are more particularly titanium oxides
that have been coated: [0086] with silica, such as the product
Sunveil from the company Ikeda, [0087] with silica and iron oxide,
such as the product Sunveil F from the company Ikeda, [0088] with
silica and alumina, such as the products Microtitanium Dioxide MT
500 SA and Microtitanium Dioxide MT 100 SA from the company Tayca
and Tioveil from the company Tioxide, [0089] with alumina, such as
the products Tipaque TTO-55 (B) and Tipaque TTO-55 (A) from the
company Ishihara and UVT 14/4 from the company Kemira, [0090] with
alumina and aluminium stearate, such as the products Microtitanium
Dioxide MT 100 TV, MT 100 TX, MT 100 Z and MT-01 from the company
Tayca, the products Solaveil CT-10 W and Solaveil CT 100 from the
company Uniqema and the product Eusolex T-AVO from the company
Merck, [0091] with silica, alumina and alginic acid, such as the
product MT-100 AQ from the company Tayca, [0092] with alumina and
aluminium laurate, such as the product Microtitanium Dioxide MT 100
S from the company Tayca, [0093] with iron oxide and iron stearate,
such as the product Microtitanium Dioxide MT 100 F from the company
Tayca, [0094] with zinc oxide and zinc stearate, such as the
product BR 351 from the company Tayca, [0095] with silica and
alumina and treated with a silicone, such as the products
Microtitanium Dioxide MT 600 SAS, Microtitanium Dioxide MT 500 SAS
or Microtitanium Dioxide MT 100 SAS from the company Tayca, [0096]
with silica, alumina and aluminium stearate and treated with a
silicone, such as the product STT-30-DS from the company Titan
Kogyo, [0097] with silica and treated with a silicone, such as the
product UV-Titan X 195 from the company Kemira, [0098] with alumina
and treated with a silicone, such as the products Tipaque TTO-55
(S) from the company Ishihara or UV Titan M 262 from the company
Kemira, [0099] with triethanolamine, such as the product STT-65-S
from the company Titan Kogyo, [0100] with stearic acid, such as the
product Tipaque TTO-55 (C) from the company Ishihara, [0101] with
sodium hexametaphosphate, such as the product Microtitanium Dioxide
MT 150 W from the company Tayca. [0102] TiO.sub.2 treated with
octyltrimethylsilane, sold under the trade name T 805 by the
company Degussa Silices, [0103] TiO.sub.2 treated with a
polydimethylsiloxane, sold under the trade name 70250 Cardre UF
TiO.sub.2Si.sub.3 by the company Cardre, [0104] anatase/rutile
TiO.sub.2 treated with a polydimethylhydrogenosiloxane, sold under
the trade name Microtitanium Dioxide USP Grade Hydrophobic by the
company Color Techniques.
[0105] The uncoated titanium oxide pigments are sold, for example,
by the company Tayca under the trade names Microtitanium Dioxide MT
500 B or Microtitanium Dioxide MT 600 B, by the company Degussa
under the name P 25, by the company Wackherr under the name
Transparent titanium oxide PW, by the company Miyoshi Kasei under
the name UFTR, by the company Tomen under the name ITS and by the
company Tioxide under the name Tioveil AQ.
[0106] According to the invention, titanium dioxide coated with
alumina and aluminium stearate, such as the products Microtitanium
Dioxide MT 100 TV, is preferred.
[0107] If presents, the inorganic UV filter is present in the
composition of the invention in an amount of generally from 0.01%
to 10%, preferably from 0.05% to 5% and more preferably from 0.1%
to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the
composition.
[0108] SPF Booster
[0109] The high performance organic UV filter is extensively used
in cosmetic products, but the drawback of using organic UV filter
is also obvious, an oily, sticky and uncomfortable feeling is
generally confronted. In order to achieve a high UV protection but
without extensive use of organic UV filter, an effective SPF
booster is designed to be used in the cosmetic composition
according to the present invention.
[0110] The composition of the present invention comprises one or
more SPF booster.
[0111] The term "SPF booster" means a compound or composition that,
when used in a formulation in conjunction with a UV screening
agent, increases the SPF value of the formulation without
increasing the amount of the UV screening agent in the
formulation.
[0112] The SPF booster may be selected from hollow particles, in
particular hollow latex particles.
[0113] Hollow Latex Particles
[0114] "Latex" means polymer particles in the form of an aqueous
dispersion which is generally stabilized with at least one
emulsifier.
[0115] The hollow latex particles according to the invention have a
particle size which ranges generally from 100 to 380 nm and
preferably from 150 to 375 nm and more preferably from 190 to 350
nm and more particularly from 251 to 325 nm, the particle size
being measured by a Brookhaven BI-90 photon correlation
spectrometer.
[0116] For a given particle size, the latex particles according to
the invention must in general possess a maximum hollow fraction.
The latex particles preferably contain a void fraction of 0.1% to
50% and more preferably of 5% to 50%. The void fractions are
determined by comparing the volume occupied by the latex particles
after having been compacted from a diluted dispersion in a
centrifuge, relative to the volume of non-void particles in the
same composition.
[0117] The hollow latex particles according to the invention may be
obtained from particles comprising at least one polymer for the
core and at least one polymer for the shell. The core polymer and
the shell polymer may be obtained from a single polymerization step
or from a sequence of polymerization steps.
[0118] The hollow latex particles according to the invention may be
prepared by the conventional techniques of emulsion polymerization.
Such processes are described especially in U.S. Pat. No. 4,427,836,
U.S. Pat. No. 4,469,825, U.S. Pat. No. 4,594,363, U.S. Pat. No.
4,677,003, U.S. Pat. No. 4,920,160 and U.S. Pat. No. 4,970,241 or
by the conventional techniques of polymerization that are described
in the following patents and patent applications: EP267726,
EP331421, US 490,229 and U.S. Pat. No. 5,157,084.
[0119] The monomers used for the shell of the latex particles are
preferably constituted of one or more unsaturated nonionic
ethylenic units. Optionally one or more monoethylenically
unsaturated monomers containing at least one carboxylic acid group
may be polymerized in the shell.
[0120] The monomers constituting the shell are selected such that
they exhibit a glass transition temperature (Tg) which is
sufficiently high to withstand the void of the hollow latex
particle. Preferably the glass transition temperature is greater
than 50.degree. C., more preferably greater than 60.degree. C. and
more preferably still greater than 70.degree. C. This temperature
Tg may be determined by DSC (differential scanning
calorimetry).
[0121] The monomers used in the emulsion polymerization in the core
polymer of the latex particles of the invention are preferably
constituted of one or more monoethylenically unsaturated monomers
containing at least one carboxylic acid group. Preferably the core
comprises at least 5% by weight of monoethylenically unsaturated
monomer containing at least one carboxylic acid group, relative to
the total weight of the core monomers.
[0122] The core polymer may for example be obtained by emulsion
homopolymerization of the monoethylenically unsaturated monomer
containing at least one acid group or by copolymerization of two or
three monoethylenically unsaturated monomers containing at least
one acid group. Preferably the monoethylenically unsaturated
monomer containing at least one acid group is copolymerized with
one or more ethylenically unsaturated nonionic monomers.
[0123] The core polymer or the shell polymer may contain from 0.1%
to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 3% by weight, of
polyethylenically unsaturated monomers such as ethylene glycol
di(meth)acrylate, allyl (meth)acrylate, 1,3-butanediol
di(meth)acrylate, diethylene glycol di(meth)acrylate,
trimethylolpropane tri(meth)acrylate or divinylbenzene, relative to
the total weight of core monomers. Alternatively the core polymer
or the shell polymer may optionally contain from 0.1% to 60% by
weight of butadiene, relative to the total weight of core
monomers.
[0124] The monoethylenically unsaturated monomers containing at
least one carboxylic acid group include, for example: acrylic acid,
methacrylic acid, acryloyloxypropionic acid,
(meth)acryloyloxypropionic acid, itaconic acid, aconitic acid,
maleic acid or maleic anhydride, fumaric acid, crotonic acid,
monomethyl maleate, monomethyl fumarate and monomethyl
itaconate.
[0125] Use will be made more particularly of a monomer selected
from acrylic acid and methacrylic acid.
[0126] The monoethylenically unsaturated nonionic monomers include,
for example: styrene, vinyltoluene, vinyl acetate, vinyl chloride,
vinylidene chloride, acrylonitrile, (meth)acrylamide,
C.sub.1-C.sub.20 alkyl esters of (meth)acrylic acid and
(C.sub.3-C.sub.20) alkenyl esters of (meth)acrylic acid, such as
methyl (meth)acrylate, ethyl (meth)acrylate, butyl (meth)acrylate,
2-ethylhexyl (meth)acrylate, benzyl (meth)acrylate, lauryl
(meth)acrylate, oleyl (meth)acrylate, palmityl (meth)acrylate and
stearyl (meth)acrylate. According to the invention, the term
(meth)acrylic will denote the general expression encompassing both
methacrylic or acrylic. The term (meth)acrylate will denote the
general expression encompassing both methacrylate or acrylate.
[0127] The void part of the core of the latex particles is
preferably produced by swelling the core with a swelling agent
comprising one or more volatile compounds. The agent penetrates the
shell in order to swell the core. The volatile components of the
swelling agent may be subsequently removed by drying the latex
particles, thus creating a void within the said particles. The
agent is preferably an aqueous base. Mention may be made, for
example, of ammonia, ammonium hydroxide, alkali metal hydroxides
such as sodium hydroxide and volatile amines such as trimethylamine
or triethylamine.
[0128] The hollow latex particles may be introduced into the
composition of the invention with the swelling agent. In that case
the volatile compounds are removed when the composition is dried.
The hollow latex particles may also be added to the composition
after the volatile compounds of the swelling agent have been
removed.
[0129] The hollow latex particles which can be used according to
the invention are those described in U.S. Pat. No. 5,663,213 and
patent application EP1092421.
[0130] According to one particular embodiment of the invention the
hollow latex particles used will be those constituted of a
copolymer of styrene and (meth)acrylic acid or one of its
C.sub.1-C.sub.20 alkyl esters under the INCI name Styrene/Acrylates
Copolymer, such as the product sold under the trade name Sunspheres
Powder by the company Rohm & Haas, which is an aqueous
dispersion containing 86% of Styrene/Acrylates Copolymer in a
mixture of 11% of PEG-8 Laurate, 2.5% of water and 0.5% of Sodium
Dodecyl benzenesulfonate.
[0131] The amount of SPF booster in the compositions of the
invention preferably ranges from 0.1% to 10% by weight, more
preferably from 0.5% to 8% by weight, even more preferably from
0.5% to 4%, in particular from 1% to 3% by weight relative to the
total weight of the composition.
[0132] Composite Particles in Spherical Form
[0133] The composite particles in spherical form used according to
the invention have a mean size of between 0.1 and 30 .mu.m,
preferably between 0.1 and 20 .mu.m and even more preferentially
between 0.1 and 10 .mu.m.
[0134] The term "spherical" means that the particle has a
sphericity index, i.e. the ratio between its largest diameter and
its smallest diameter, of less than 1.2.
[0135] The composite particles in spherical form used according to
the present invention comprise at least one particulate
UV-screening agent and a core constituted of at least one inorganic
material and/or of at least one organic material.
[0136] According to a first variant, the composite particles in
spherical form contain a core comprising at least one organic
material and/or at least one inorganic material, in which are
included particles of particulate UV-screening agent. According to
this embodiment, the matrix exhibits inclusions, and particles of
particulate UV-screening agent are placed in the inclusions of the
matrix.
[0137] According to a second variant, the composite particles in
spherical form contain a core made of an organic material and/or an
inorganic material, covered with at least one layer of particulate
UV-screening agent which may be connected to the matrix by means of
a binder.
[0138] According to a third variant, the composite particles in
spherical form contain a particulate UV-screening agent covered
with at least one layer of an organic material and/or of an
inorganic material.
[0139] The core may also be formed from one or more organic
materials and/or inorganic materials. It may then be a continuous
phase of materials such as an alloy, i.e. a continuous phase in
which the materials can no longer be dissociable, or a
discontinuous phase of materials, for example constituted of an
organic or inorganic material covered with a layer of another
different organic or inorganic material.
[0140] The weight content of particulate UV-screening agent in the
composite particles in spherical form of the invention is
preferably between 1% and 90%, preferably between 2% and 80% and
even better still between 3% and 70%.
[0141] The organic materials that may be used to form the core of
the composite particles in spherical form are chosen from the group
formed by poly(meth)acrylates, polyamides, silicones,
polyurethanes, polyethylenes, polypropylenes, polystyrenes,
polycaprolactams, polysaccharides, polytetrafluoroethylenes,
polypeptides, polyvinyl derivatives, waxes, polyesters and
polyethers, and mixtures thereof.
[0142] Preferably, the matrix of the composite particles in
spherical form contains a material or a mixture of materials chosen
from: [0143] SiO.sub.2, [0144] poly(methyl methacylate), [0145]
copolymers of styrene and of a C.sub.1/O.sub.5 alkyl (meth)acrylate
derivative, [0146] polyamides, such as Nylon.RTM., [0147]
polytetrafluoroethylenes.
[0148] More preferably the matrix or the core of the composite
particles in spherical form comprises poly(methyl methacylate).
[0149] Particulate UV-Screening Agents
[0150] The particulate UV-screening agents according to the
invention are chosen from particulate organic UV-screening agents
and inorganic screening agents.
[0151] Preferably, the particulate UV-screening agents according to
the invention are chosen from inorganic screening agents.
[0152] Inorganic Screening Agents
[0153] The inorganic UV-screening agent is generally chosen from
metal oxides, preferably titanium, zinc or iron oxides, or mixtures
thereof, and more particularly from titanium dioxide (amorphous or
crystalline in rutile and/or anatase form), zinc oxide and mixtures
thereof. Particularly preferably, the inorganic UV-screening agent
is TiO.sub.2.
[0154] These metal oxides may be in the form of particles, having a
mean elementary size generally of less than 200 nm. Advantageously,
the metal oxide particles used have a mean elementary size of less
than or equal to 0.15 .mu.m.
[0155] These metal oxides may also be in the form of layers,
preferably multilayers with a mean thickness generally of less than
0.2 .mu.m.
[0156] The inorganic UV-screening agents in accordance with the
invention preferably have a mean elementary particle size of
greater than 5 nm and less than 200 nm. According to one
particularly preferred embodiment of the invention, this size
preferably ranges from 10 nm to 150 nm.
[0157] According to one embodiment of the invention, the inorganic
UV-screening agents may be titanium oxide-based nanopigments.
[0158] The inorganic UV-screening agents may be coated or
uncoated.
[0159] The coated inorganic UV-screening agents are pigments that
have undergone one or more surface treatments of chemical,
electronic, mechanochemical and/or mechanical nature with compounds
as described, for example, in Cosmetics & Toiletries, February
1990, Vol. 105, pp. 53-64, such as amino acids, beeswax, fatty
acids, fatty alcohols, anionic surfactants, lecithins, sodium,
potassium, zinc, iron or aluminium salts of fatty acids, metal
alkoxides (titanium or aluminium alkoxides), polyethylene,
silicones, proteins (collagen, elastin), alkanolamines, silicon
oxides, metal oxides or sodium hexametaphosphate.
[0160] As is known, silicones are organosilicon polymers or
oligomers of linear or cyclic, branched or crosslinked structure,
of variable molecular weight, obtained by polymerization and/or
polycondensation of suitably functionalized silanes, and are
essentially constituted of a repetition of main units in which the
silicon atoms are linked together via oxygen atoms (siloxane bond),
optionally substituted hydrocarbon-based radicals being directly
attached to said silicon atoms via a carbon atom.
[0161] The term "silicones" also encompasses the silanes required
for their preparation, in particular alkylsilanes.
[0162] The silicones used for coating the pigments that are
suitable for the present invention are preferably chosen from the
group containing alkylsilanes, polydialkylsiloxanes and
polyalkylhydrogenosiloxanes. Even more preferentially, the
silicones are chosen from the group containing
octyltrimethylsilane, polydimethylsiloxanes and
polymethylhydrogenosiloxanes.
[0163] Of course, before being treated with silicones, the metal
oxide pigments may have been treated with other surface agents, in
particular with cerium oxide, alumina, silica, aluminium compounds
or silicon compounds, or mixtures thereof.
[0164] The coated pigments are more particularly titanium oxides
that have been coated: [0165] with silica, such as the product
Sunveil from the company Ikeda, [0166] with silica and iron oxide,
such as the product Sunveil F from the company Ikeda, [0167] with
silica and alumina, such as the products Microtitanium Dioxide MT
500 SA and Microtitanium Dioxide MT 100 SA from the company Tayca
and Tioveil from the company Tioxide, [0168] with alumina, such as
the products Tipaque TTO-55 (B) and Tipaque TTO-55 (A) from the
company Ishihara and UVT 14/4 from the company Kemira, [0169] with
alumina and aluminium stearate, such as the products Microtitanium
Dioxide MT 100 T, MT 100 TX, MT 100 Z and MT-01 from the company
Tayca, the products Solaveil CT-10 W and Solaveil CT 100 from the
company Uniqema and the product Eusolex T-AVO from the company
Merck, [0170] with silica, alumina and alginic acid, such as the
product MT-100 AQ from the company Tayca, [0171] with alumina and
aluminium laurate, such as the product Microtitanium Dioxide MT 100
S from the company Tayca, [0172] with iron oxide and iron stearate,
such as the product Microtitanium Dioxide MT 100 F from the company
Tayca, [0173] with zinc oxide and zinc stearate, such as the
product BR 351 from the company Tayca, [0174] with silica and
alumina and treated with a silicone, such as the products
Microtitanium Dioxide MT 600 SAS, Microtitanium Dioxide MT 500 SAS
or Microtitanium Dioxide MT 100 SAS from the company Tayca, [0175]
with silica, alumina and aluminium stearate and treated with a
silicone, such as the product STT-30-DS from the company Titan
Kogyo, [0176] with silica and treated with a silicone, such as the
product UV-Titan X 195 from the company Kemira, [0177] with alumina
and treated with a silicone, such as the products Tipaque TTO-55
(S) from the company Ishihara or UV Titan M 262 from the company
Kemira, [0178] with triethanolamine, such as the product STT-65-S
from the company Titan Kogyo, [0179] with stearic acid, such as the
product Tipaque TTO-55 (C) from the company Ishihara, [0180] with
sodium hexametaphosphate, such as the product Microtitanium Dioxide
MT 150 W from the company Tayca. [0181] TiO.sub.2 treated with
octyltrimethylsilane, sold under the trade name T 805 by the
company Degussa Silices, [0182] TiO.sub.2 treated with a
polydimethylsiloxane, sold under the trade name 70250 Cardre UF
TiO2SI3 by the company Cardre, [0183] anatase/rutile TiO.sub.2
treated with a polydimethylhydrogenosiloxane, sold under the trade
name Microtitanium Dioxide USP Grade Hydrophobic by the company
Color Techniques.
[0184] The uncoated titanium oxide pigments are sold, for example,
by the company Tayca under the trade names Microtitanium Dioxide MT
500 B or Microtitanium Dioxide MT 600 B, by the company Degussa
under the name P 25, by the company Wackherr under the name
Transparent titanium oxide PW, by the company Miyoshi Kasei under
the name UFTR, by the company Tomen under the name ITS and by the
company Tioxide under the name Tioveil AQ.
[0185] The uncoated zinc oxide pigments are for example: [0186]
those sold under the name Z-Cote by the company Sunsmart; [0187]
those sold under the name Nanox by the company Elementis; [0188]
those sold under the name Nanogard WCD 2025 by the company
Nanophase Technologies.
[0189] The coated zinc oxide pigments are for example: [0190] those
sold under the name Zinc Oxide CS-5 by the company Toshibi (ZnO
coated with polymethylhydrogenosiloxane); [0191] those sold under
the name Nanogard Zinc Oxide FN by the company Nanophase
Technologies (as a 40% dispersion in Finsolv TN, C.sub.12-C.sub.15
alkyl benzoate); [0192] those sold under the name Daitopersion
ZN-30 and Daitopersion ZN-50 by the company Daito (dispersions in
cyclopolymethylsiloxane/oxyethylenated polydimethylsiloxane,
containing 30% or 50% of zinc oxides coated with silica and
polymethylhydrogenosiloxane); [0193] those sold under the name NFD
Ultrafine ZnO by the company Daikin (ZnO coated with perfluoroalkyl
phosphate and copolymer based on perfluoroalkylethyl as a
dispersion in cyclopentasiloxane); [0194] those sold under the name
SPD-Z1 by the company Shin-Etsu (ZnO coated with silicone-grafted
acrylic polymer, dispersed in cyclodimethylsiloxane); [0195] those
sold under the name Escalol Z100 by the company ISP
(alumina-treated ZnO dispersed in an ethylhexyl
methoxycinnamate/PVP-hexadecene copolymer/methicone mixture);
[0196] those sold under the name Fuji ZnO-SMS-10 by the company
Fuji Pigment (ZnO coated with silica and polymethylsilsesquioxane);
[0197] those sold under the name Nanox Gel TN by the company
Elementis (ZnO dispersed at a concentration of 55% in C12-C15 alkyl
benzoate with hydroxystearic acid polycondensate).
[0198] The uncoated cerium oxide pigments may be, for example,
those sold under the name Colloidal Cerium Oxide by the company
Rhone-Poulenc.
[0199] The uncoated iron oxide pigments are, for example, sold by
the company Arnaud under the names Nanogard WCD 2002 (FE 45B),
Nanogard Iron FE 45 BL AQ, Nanogard FE 45R AQ and Nanogard WCD 2006
(FE 45R) or by the company Mitsubishi under the name TY-220.
[0200] The coated iron oxide pigments are sold, for example, by the
company Arnaud under the names Nanogard WCD 2008 (FE 45B FN),
Nanogard WCD 2009 (FE 45B 556), Nanogard FE 45 BL 345 and Nanogard
FE 45 BL or by the company BASF under the name Transparent Iron
Oxide.
[0201] Mention may also be made of mixtures of metal oxides, in
particular of titanium dioxide and of cerium dioxide, including the
equal-weight mixture of titanium dioxide and cerium dioxide coated
with silica, sold by the company Ikeda under the name Sunveil A,
and also the mixture of titanium dioxide and zinc dioxide coated
with alumina, silica and silicone, such as the product M 261 sold
by the company Kemira, or coated with alumina, silica and glycerol,
such as the product M 211 sold by the company Kemira.
[0202] According to the invention, coated or uncoated titanium
oxide pigments are particularly preferred.
[0203] The titanium oxide may be in rutile and/or anatase form
and/or in an amorphous or substantially amorphous form.
[0204] According to a preferred embodiment, the composite particles
in spherical form contain a core comprising at least one organic
material and/or at least one inorganic material, in which are
included particles of inorganic UV-screening agent.
[0205] According to this embodiment, the particles of inorganic
UV-screening agent are characterized by a mean elementary size
generally of less than 200 nm.
[0206] Advantageously, the metal oxide particles used have a mean
elementary size of less than or equal to 0.15 .mu.m.
[0207] As composite particles in spherical form corresponding to
this variant, mention may be made of the products Sunsil TIN 50 and
Sunsil TIN 40 sold by the company Sunjin Chemical. These spherical
composite particles having a mean size between 2 and 7 .mu.m are
formed of TiO.sub.2 encapsulated in a silica core.
[0208] Mention may also be made of the following particles: [0209]
spherical composite particles having a mean size of between 4 and 8
.mu.m, containing TiO.sub.2 and SiO.sub.2 and having the trade name
Eospoly TR, sold by the company Creations Couleurs, [0210]
composite particles containing TiO.sub.2 and a styrene/alkyl
acrylate copolymer matrix, sold under the name Eospoly UV TR22 HB
50 by the company Creations Couleurs, [0211] composite particles
containing TiO.sub.2 and ZnO and a PMMA matrix and having the trade
name Sun PMMA-T50, sold by the company Sunjin Chemical.
[0212] Among the composite particles in spherical form that may be
used according to the invention, mention may also be made of the
spherical composite particles containing TiO.sub.2 and SiO.sub.2,
having the trade name STM ACS-0050510, supplied by the company JGC
Catalysts and Chemical.
[0213] According to a preferred embodiment, the composite particles
in spherical form contain an inorganic UV-screening agent covered
with at least one layer of an organic and/or inorganic material.
According to this embodiment, the particles of inorganic
UV-screening agent are characterized by a mean elementary size
generally of between 0.001 and 0.2 .mu.m. Advantageously, the metal
oxide particles used have a mean elementary size of between 0.01
and 0.15 .mu.m.
[0214] According to a preferred embodiment, the composite particles
in spherical form contain a core made of an organic and/or
inorganic material, covered with at least one layer of inorganic
UV-screening agent connected to the matrix by means of a
binder.
[0215] According to this embodiment, the mean thickness of the
layer of inorganic UV-screening agent is generally between 0.001
and 0.2 .mu.m and preferably between 0.01 and 0.1 .mu.m.
[0216] According to one particular form of this embodiment, the
composite particles in spherical form can be constituted of:
[0217] i) spherical particles A.sub.1 having a mean size of greater
than 0.1 .mu.m and less than 1 .mu.m, more preferentially less than
0.6 .mu.m and even more preferentially less than 0.4 .mu.m, the
surface of said particles A.sub.1 being at least partially covered
with at least one particulate solid UV-screening agent as defined
previously;
[0218] ii) and optionally spherical particles A.sub.2 having a mean
size of greater than or equal to 2 .mu.m, preferably greater than
or equal to 3 .mu.m, more preferentially greater than 4 .mu.m and
even better still greater than or equal to 5 .mu.m, the surface of
said particles A.sub.2 being at least partially covered with at
least one particulate solid UV-screening agent as defined
previously.
[0219] The surface of said particles A.sub.1 or A.sub.2 can also be
at least partially covered with at least one pulverulent
colorant.
[0220] In particular, the pulverulent colorants are chosen from
pigments and nacres, and mixtures thereof.
[0221] Preferably, the pulverulent colorants of the present
invention are chosen from pigments. The pigments may be white or
coloured, and mineral and/or organic.
[0222] According to a preferred embodiment, the pulverulent
colorants of the present invention are chosen from mineral
pigments.
[0223] The pulverulent colorant(s) can be used in the composite
particles of the invention in proportions such that the ratio by
weight of the particles A.sub.1 or A.sub.2/colorant(s) is from
50:50 to 90:10, preferably from 50:50 to 80:20 and more
preferentially from 50:50 to 70:30.
[0224] Such mineral pigments will be disclosed further in the
description.
[0225] Pigments
[0226] The term "pigments" should be understood as meaning white or
coloured, mineral or organic particles of any shape, which are
insoluble in the physiological medium, and which are intended to
colour the composition.
[0227] The pigments may be white or coloured, and mineral and/or
organic.
[0228] Among the mineral pigments that may be mentioned are
titanium dioxide, optionally surface-treated, zirconium oxide or
cerium oxide, and also zinc oxide, iron (black, yellow or red)
oxide or chromium oxide, manganese violet, ultramarine blue,
chromium hydrate and ferric blue, and metal powders, for instance
aluminium powder and copper powder.
[0229] The core of the particles A.sub.1 and the core of the
particles A.sub.2 are constituted of an inorganic material and/or
of an organic material.
[0230] The inorganic material or the organic material may be hollow
or porous. The porosity of the material may be characterized by a
specific surface area of from 0.05 m.sup.2/g to 1500 m.sup.2/g,
more preferentially from 0.1 m.sup.2/g to 1000 m.sup.2/g and more
preferentially from 0.2 m.sup.2/g to 500 m.sup.2/g according to the
BET method.
[0231] The inorganic materials that may be used in the core of the
spherical particles A.sub.1 or A.sub.2 according to the present
invention may be chosen from the group formed by glass, silica and
aluminium oxide, and mixtures thereof.
[0232] The organic materials that may be used to form the core of
the particles A.sub.1 or A.sub.2 are chosen from the group formed
by poly(meth)acrylates, polyamides, silicones, polyurethanes,
polyethylenes, polypropylenes, polystyrenes, polycaprolactams,
polysaccharides, polypeptides, polyvinyl derivatives, waxes,
polyesters and polyethers, and mixtures thereof.
[0233] The particles A.sub.1 are partially covered with at least
one layer comprising at least one particulate UV-screening agent.
Preferably, at least 10% of the surface of the particle is covered,
preferably at least 50% and more preferentially at least 80%, and
even better still 100% of the surface of the particle is covered
with solid screening agent.
[0234] The thickness of the coating of the particle A.sub.1 can
depend on several factors, in particular on the size of the
particle. Typically, the thickness can range from 0.001 to 0.2
.mu.m, preferably from 0.005 to 0.18 .mu.m and more preferentially
from 0.01 to 0.150 .mu.m.
[0235] If at least two layers of coating are present on the
particle A.sub.1, the thickness and the composition of the layers
may be identical or different.
[0236] The layer(s) of coating may comprise other materials, such
as colouring pigments. These materials may be present in an amount
ranging from 1% to 50% of the total weight of the materials coating
the particle A.sub.1.
[0237] The spherical particles A.sub.2 have a mean size of greater
than or equal to 2 .mu.m, preferably greater than or equal to 3
.mu.m and more preferentially greater than 4 .mu.m. The mean size
can be limited to at most 50 .mu.m, preferably at most 30 .mu.m,
more preferentially at most 20 .mu.m and even more particularly at
most 10 .mu.m.
[0238] The mean particle size or the mean diameter is an arithmetic
mean diameter and can be determined, for example, by calculating
the mean of the dimensions of about 100 particles chosen on an
image obtained by scanning electron microscopy.
[0239] The spherical particles A.sub.2 may be hollow or solid and
preferably solid.
[0240] According to one particularly preferred form, the core of
the particles A.sub.1 will be constituted of styrene copolymer and
more preferentially of styrene/acrylate copolymer and more
particularly of styrene/methylacrylate copolymer, for instance the
product sold under the trade name Sunspheres by the company Rohm
& Haas and also the product sold under the trade names SX859(A)
and SX866(B) by the company JSR Corp in Japan.
[0241] According to one particularly preferred form, the core of
the particles A.sub.2 will be constituted of [0242]
polymethacrylate and more particularly of poly(methyl
methacrylate), for instance the product sold under the trade name
MR-7GC by Soken in Japan, [0243] polyamide, for instance the
product sold under the trade name SP-500 by Toray or Orgasol by
Arkema, [0244] polytetrafluoroethylene, such as the commercial
product sold under the name Ceridust 9205F by Clariant.
[0245] More preferably the core of the particles A.sub.2 is
constituted of poly(methyl methacrylate).
[0246] The weight ratio of the particles A.sub.1/particles A.sub.2
can be from 10:90 to 90:10, preferably from 20:80 to 80:20 and more
preferentially from 30:70 to 70:30.
[0247] The weight ratio of the particles A.sub.1 to the particulate
UV-screening agent can be from 10:90 to 90:10, preferably from
20:80 to 80:20 and more preferentially from 30:70 to 70:30.
[0248] The weight ratio of the particles A.sub.1/particles
A.sub.2/particulate UV-screening agent can be from 20:50:30 to
50:20:30, preferably from 35:15:50 to 15:35:50, more preferentially
from 10:20:70 to 20:10:70 and more particularly 50:20:30 or
35:15:50.
[0249] According to one particularly preferred form, the composite
particle in spherical form comprise:
[0250] i) spherical particles A.sub.1 having a mean size of greater
than 0.1 .mu.m and less than 1 .mu.m, more preferentially less than
0.6 .mu.m and even more preferentially less than 0.4 .mu.m, the
surface of said particles A.sub.1 being at least partially covered
with titanium dioxide particles and the core of the particles being
constituted of styrene/methyl methacrylate copolymer;
[0251] ii) spherical particles A.sub.2 having a mean size of
greater than or equal to 2 .mu.m, preferably greater than or equal
to 3 .mu.m, more preferentially greater than 4 .mu.m and even
better still greater than or equal to 5 .mu.m, the surface of said
particles A.sub.2 being covered with at least titanium dioxide
particles and the core of the particles being constituted of
poly(methyl methacrylate).
[0252] Mechanofusion Process
[0253] The composite particle in spherical form according to the
invention can be prepared by subjecting the following to a
mechanofusion process: [0254] the spherical particles A.sub.1
having a mean size of greater than 0.1 .mu.m and less than 1 .mu.m,
more preferentially less than 0.6 .mu.m and even more
preferentially less than 0.4 .mu.m, [0255] and optionally the
spherical particles A.sub.2 having a mean size of greater than or
equal to 2 .mu.m, preferably greater than or equal to 3 .mu.m, more
preferentially greater than 4 .mu.m and even better still greater
than or equal to 5 .mu.m, and [0256] at least one solid
UV-screening agent as previously defined, [0257] and optionally the
additional UV-screening agent(s) and/or the pulverulent colorant(s)
as previously defined.
[0258] A mechanofusion process consists of a process in which a
mechanical power, such as a compressive force, a frictional force
or a shear force, is exerted on a plurality of elements, causing
the fusion of said elements.
[0259] The mechanofusion process can be performed with a device
comprising a rotary chamber and an internal part attached to a
scraper, such as the device sold under the trade name Hosokawa
Micron Corporation in Japan.
[0260] A process of hybridization by mechanofusion will preferably
be used.
[0261] The hybridization process was developed in the 1980s. It is
a type of mechanofusion process in which a strong mechanical power
is applied to a plurality of particles in order to cause a
mechanochemical reaction so as to form composite particles.
[0262] According to the hybridization process, the mechanical power
is produced by a high-speed rotor which can have a diameter ranging
from 10 cm to 1 m and which can rotate at a speed ranging from 1000
to 10 000 revolutions/minute. The hybridization process can be
carried out in air or under a dry atmosphere. Indeed, the
high-speed rotation of the rotor can generate a high-speed air flow
in proximity to the rotor. Liquid materials can be subjected to the
hybridization process in the presence of solid materials.
[0263] The hybridization process can be carried out using a
hybridization system sold under the trade name Nara Machinery, in
which at least two types of particles, generally particles
comprising a core and fine particles, are introduced into a
hybridizer equipped with a high-speed rotor having a plurality of
blades in a dry chamber, and the particles are dispersed in the
chamber and mechanical and thermal energy is produced on the
particles (compression, friction and shear) for a short period such
as from 1 to 10 minutes and preferably from 1 to 5 minutes. This
results in particles of one type (fine particles) integrated on or
attached to particles of another type (i.e. particles comprising a
core) so as to form composite particles. It is preferable for the
particles to be subjected to an electrostatic treatment, for
example by shaking them so as to form an "ordered mixture" in which
particles of one type are spread out so as to cover the particles
of the other type. The hybridization process can be carried out
using a Theta composer sold by Tokuju Corporation.
[0264] The hybridization process can be carried out using a device
of the Composi Hybrid or Mechano Hybrid type sold by Nippon
Coke.
[0265] According to the invention, the hollow particles A.sub.1,
the particles A.sub.2, the particulate screening agent(s), the
optional colouring pigment(s) and the optional additional screening
agent(s) are introduced into a hybridizer so as to form a composite
pigment.
[0266] The hybridization process can be carried out using a rotor
rotating at approximately 8000 rpm for approximately 3 minutes.
[0267] Preferably, the content of composite particles in spherical
form in the composition according to the invention ranges from 1%
to 70%, preferably from 1.5% to 50% and preferably from 2% to 40%
by weight relative to the total weight of the cosmetic
composition.
[0268] Anti-Oxidation Active Ingredient
[0269] The composition of the present invention comprises at least
one anti-oxidation active ingredient. The ingredients are used for
protecting the keratin materiasl, especially the skin, from
pro-oxidation. A compound of formula (I) can be used in the
composition according to the present invention as an anti-oxidation
active ingredient.
##STR00007##
[0270] In formula (I), each X independently represents
--OPO.sub.3Y, wherein Y is selected from hydrogen, Li, Na and
K.
[0271] In an embodiment of the present, a plant seed extraction
containing the compound according to formula (I) is used as an
anti-oxidation active ingredient. Such a plant seed extraction can
be for example Phytovityl.RTM. sold by the company Solabia.
[0272] Phytovityl.RTM. is an active vegetal fraction obtained from
controlled and specific extraction of corn seeds whose major
ingredients are involved in the cellular metabolism.
Phytovityl.RTM. is composed myo-inositol derivative in the phytate
form. Phytovityl.RTM. has anti-free radical activity and
anti-pollution effect.
[0273] A dimer peptide according to formula (II) can also be used
in the composition according to the present invention as
anti-oxidation active ingredient.
##STR00008##
[0274] In an embodiment, a seed extract containing the above dimmer
peptide is used. In an example, Phytoquintescine.TM. is used as an
anti-oxidation active ingredient sold by the company ISP Vincience
(Ashland).
[0275] Phytoquintescine.TM. (INCI: HYDROLYZED TRITICUM MONOCOCCUM
SEED EXTRACT) is extracted by a specific extraction process,
selective hydrolysis and purification. This process allows to
select, isolate and concentrate a dimer peptide with antioxidant
properties. Phytoquintescine is perfectly adapted to day care
products, and specifically, to anti-pollution and anti-stress
products.
[0276] Tocopherol and/or its derivatives can be used in the
composition according to the present invention. Suitable tocopherol
derivatives may include for example, sodium vitamin E phosphate
(VEP), lauryl imino dipropionic acid tocopheryl phosphate,
tocopheryl glucoside, tocopheryl succinate, tocophersolan
(tocopheryl polyethylene glycol 1000 succinate), disodium
lauriminodipropionate tocopheryl phosphates, tocophereth-5, 10, 12,
18 and 50 (polyethylene glcol tocopheryl ethers). Preferred
tocopherol derivatives includes sodium vitamin E phosphate, lauryl
imino dipropionic acid tocopheryl phosphate, and disodium
lauriminodipropionate tocopheryl phosphates.
[0277] More preferably, tocopherol is used in the present
invention. Examples of the tocopherol which is suitable to the
present invention is, for example, DI Alpha Tocopherol sold by the
company DSM Nutritional Products.
[0278] The amount of anti-oxidation active ingredient in the
compositions of the invention preferably ranges from 0.001% to 10%
by weight, more preferably from 0.001% to 5% by weight, even more
preferably from 0.002% to 4%, in particular from 0.002% to 2% by
weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0279] Polysaccharide
[0280] Advantageously, a polysaccharide can be used in the
composition according to the present invention is a polymer of
natural origin.
[0281] Furthermore, a polysaccharide used according to the present
invention may also, or alternatively, be in linear or branched
form.
[0282] For the purposes of this invention, the term "branched"
means a polymer including at least one saccharide unit and/or a
polysaccharide sequence, is laterally attached to the main
chain.
[0283] According to one advantageous embodiment of the present
invention, a polysaccharide used according to the present invention
contains at least 25% by weight of fucose and 25% by weight of
glucuronic acid, based on the total weight of the polymer.
[0284] Specifically, a polysaccharide can be implemented according
to the present invention contains from 25% to 80% by weight of
fucose and 25% to 80% by weight of glucuronic acid, based on the
total weight of the polymer.
[0285] According to another preferred embodiment, a polysaccharide
contains from 1 to 50% by weight of glucose, based on the total
weight of the polymer.
[0286] According to the invention, the term saccharide or
polysaccharide polymer (or polysaccharide), a polymer comprising at
least three saccharide units or derivatives thereof, at least one
kind of fucose, glucose of a type and a glucuronic acid type, said
units being linked together through O-glycosidic bonds.
[0287] More particularly, fucose and glucose are present in the L
form and D, respectively.
[0288] In the context of the present invention, be used
indifferently "radical" or terms "unit" for a monosaccharide
derivative or pattern, forming an polysaccharide according to the
invention.
[0289] Under saccharide units or groups, can be made, for example
addition fucose, glucose and glucuronic acid, such as trioses
cetotrioses (dihydroxyacetone), the aldotrioses (glyceraldehyde);
tetroses such as cetotetroses (Erythrulose), the aldotetrose
(erythrose, threose); pentoses such as ketopentoses (ribulose,
xylulose), the aldopentose (arabinose, lyxose, ribose, xylose), the
desoxyose(deoxyribose); hexoses such as ketohexoses (fructose,
psicose, sorbose, tagatose) aldohexoses(allose, altrose, galactose,
gulose, idose, mannose, talose) deoxyoses(fuculose, pneumose,
quinovose, rhamnose); the heptoses (glucoheptose, idoheptulose,
mannoheptulose, sedoheptulose, taloheptulose) or the derivatives
thereof or octoses.
[0290] Derivatives by means of a saccharide unit, a unit as defined
above, further having undergone a chemical modification resulting
in the presence of ancillary chemical groups and/or absence of
initially present in the considered chemical groups monosaccharide.
In this respect, one can for example include glucuronic acid from
glucose, oxidized on its carbon number 6.
[0291] A particularly suitable polysaccharide of the present
invention, is formed solely of units fucose, glucose and glucuronic
acid.
[0292] Advantageously, the saccharide units implemented within a
polysaccharide according to the invention can form a saccharide
sequence that is repeated in said polymer.
[0293] Thus, a polymer used in the present invention preferably
comprises at least one fucose unit, a glucuronic acid unit and two
glucose units, present in the form of a tetrasaccharide repeating
sequence.
[0294] Advantageously, such a sequence is repeated at least 100
times.
[0295] In a preferred variant, the polymer according to the
invention is considered a compound comprising at least one
tetrasaccharide sequence following formula:
##STR00009##
[0296] In a preferred embodiment, the saccharide polymer has a
molecular weight ranging from 104 to 108 Dalton and in particular
of 5104-5107 Dalton.
[0297] Such a polymer is particularly marketed under the name
Glycofilm 1.5 P.RTM. (INCI name: Biosaccharide Gum-4), marketed by
SOLABIA.
[0298] Glycofilm 1.5 P.RTM. is an anionic polysaccharide (mean
molecular weight 2.times.10.sup.6), prepared through biotechnology
from plant material. It is a branched desacetylated structure with
saccharide sequence comprises glucuronic acid (I), L-fucose (II)
and D-glucose (III, IV) as follows:
##STR00010##
[0299] Glycofilm 1.5 P.RTM. is a film-protective active ingredient
which, just like a coat of mail or a second skin, allows limiting
the skin external aggressions, notably the ones induced by U.V.
rays, pollution, heavy metals and the intensive use of
surfactants.
[0300] Apart from its ability to form a three-dimensional
bio-matrix at the skin surface, Glycofilm 1.5 P.RTM. also provides
textural properties which optimize the smoothness of cosmetic
formula and emphasize the resulting well-being feeling.
[0301] This polymer is already proposed for its anti-UV and
anti-pollution properties. However, it has, to the knowledge of the
inventors, never been described for its firming properties.
[0302] In general, the polysaccharides of the invention may be
commercially available or may be obtained, for example, by
culturing yeast in standard operating conditions, clearly within
the general knowledge of those skilled in the art.
[0303] For example, the Biosaccharide Gum-4 can be obtained by
bacterial fermentation, sorbitol from vegetable and autolytic yeast
extract.
[0304] The amount of the at least one polysaccharide in the
compositions of the invention is up to 6% by weight, preferably
ranges from 0.0001% to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.001% to
4.5% by weight, even more preferably from 0.005% to 2% by weight,
relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0305] Pigments
[0306] "Pigments" are white or coloured, organic or inorganic,
non-interference particles which are insoluble in aqueous and
non-aqueous media and are intended for colouring the
composition.
[0307] Not included, therefore, in this regard are nacres (natural
or otherwise), metallic pigments, interference pigments, etc.
[0308] Inorganic pigments which can be used in the invention
include oxides or dioxides of titanium, zirconium or cerium, and
also oxides of zinc, iron or chromium, Prussian blue, manganese
violet, ultramarine blue and chromium hydrate, and mixtures
thereof.
[0309] The organic pigments which can be used in the invention
include D & C pigments, lakes based on cochineal carmine, and
on barium, strontium, calcium and aluminium, or else the
diketopyrrolopyrroles (DPP) which are described in documents
EP-A-542 669, EP-A-787 730, EP-A-787 731 and WO-A-96/08537.
[0310] According to one preferred embodiment, use will be made of
inorganic pigments, selected more particularly from titanium oxides
and iron oxides (especially yellow, black and red), advantageously
coated with at least one hydrophobic agent.
[0311] The pigments of the invention are preferably wholly or
partly surface-treated with a hydrophobic agent, more particularly
with a fluoro, fatty acid or amino acid, or silicone compound, or a
mixture thereof.
[0312] Their initial particle size D [0.5] is especially less than
20 .mu.m, preferably between 0.4 and 10 .mu.m, end points
included.
[0313] By way of example, the hydrophobic treatment agent may be
selected from fatty acids such as stearic acid; metal soaps such as
aluminium dimyristate and the aluminium salt of hydrogenated tallow
glutamate; perfluoroalkyl phosphates and polyhexafluoropropylene
oxides; perfluoropolyethers; amino acids; N-acylamino acids or
salts thereof; lecithin, isopropyl trisostearyl titanate,
isostearyl sebacate, and silicone compounds such as dimethicones or
polydimethylsiloxanes, and mixtures thereof.
[0314] The hydrophobic treatment agent is preferably selected from
perfluoroalkyl phosphates, polyhexafluoropropylene oxides,
perfluoropolyethers, amino acids, N-acylamino acids or salts
thereof, isopropyl trisostearyl titanate, and mixtures thereof.
[0315] More preferably, the hydrophobic agent is selected from
perfluoroalkyl phosphates, N-acylamino acids or salts thereof,
isopropyl trisostearyl titanate, and mixtures thereof.
[0316] The surface-treated pigments may be prepared according to
chemical, electronic, chemomechanical or mechanical surface
treatment techniques that are well known to the skilled person. It
is also possible to use commercial products.
[0317] The surface agent may be absorbed or adsorbed on the
pigments by solvent evaporation, chemical reaction and creation of
a covalent bond.
[0318] According to one version, the surface treatment comprises a
coating of the pigments.
[0319] The coating may represent from 0.1 to 10% by weight and more
particularly from 1% to 5% by weight, of the total weight of the
coated pigments.
[0320] Coating may be carried out, for example, by adsorption of a
liquid surface agent on the surface of the pigments, by simple
mixing with stirring of the pigments and of said surface agent,
optionally under hot conditions, prior to the incorporation of the
pigments into the other ingredients of the care or makeup
composition.
[0321] Coating may be carried out, for example, by chemical
reaction of a surface agent with the surface of the pigments and
creation of a covalent bond between the surface agent and the
pigments. This method is described especially in U.S. Pat. No.
4,578,266.
[0322] Amino Acid or Fatty Acid Treatment Agent
[0323] The hydrophobic treatment agent may be selected from fatty
acids, such as stearic acid; metal soaps, such as aluminium
dimyristate and the aluminium salt of hydrogenated tallow
glutamate; amino acids; N-acylamino acids or salts thereof;
lecithin, isopropyl trisostearyltitanate (or alternatively called
ITT), and mixtures thereof.
[0324] The N-acylamino acids may comprise an acyl group having from
8 to 22 carbon atoms, such as, for example, a 2-ethylhexanoyl,
caproyl, lauroyl, myristoyl, palmitoyl, stearoyl or cocoyl group.
The salts of these compounds may be the aluminium, magnesium,
calcium, zirconium, zinc, sodium or potassium salts. The amino acid
may be, for example, lysine, glutamic acid or alanine.
[0325] The fatty acids in the present invention are more
particularly acids with hydrocarbon chains having from 1 to 30
carbon atoms, preferably having from 5 to 18 carbon atoms. The
hydrocarbon chain may be saturated, monounsaturated or
polyunsaturated.
[0326] Examples of pigments coated with fatty acids include those
containing the disodium stearoylglutamate/aluminium hydroxide
pairing, these being sold in particular under the trade name
NAI-TAO-77891, NAI-C33-8073-10, NAI-C33-8075, NAI-C47-051-10,
NAI-033-115, NAI-C33-134, NAI-C33-8001-10, NAI-C33-7001-10,
NAI-C33-9001-10 from the company Miyoshi Kasei.
[0327] Examples of pigments treated with isopropyltitanium
triisostearate (ITT) include those sold under the trade name
BWBO-12 (Iron oxide 0177499 and isopropyl titanium triisostearate),
BVVYO-12 (Iron oxide 0177492 and isopropyl titanium triisostearate)
and BWRO-12 (Iron oxide 0177491 and isopropyl titanium
triisostearate) by the company Kobo.
[0328] Preferably, pigments coated with disodium
stearoylglutamate/aluminium hydroxide are used in the present
invention.
[0329] Preferably, the pigment is present in the composition of the
invention in an amount of generally from 1% to 30% by weight,
preferably from 2% to 25% by weight, and more preferably from 5% to
20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0330] Adjuvants
[0331] The composition according to the invention may further
comprise additional adjuvants commonly used in the envisaged
application field.
[0332] Mention may be made especially of organic solvents,
especially C.sub.1-C.sub.6 alcohols and C.sub.2-C.sub.10 carboxylic
acid esters; carbon-based and/or silicone oils, of mineral, animal
and/or plant origin; waxes, additional pigments, fillers,
colorants, surfactants, emulsifiers, co-emulsifiers; cosmetic or
dermatological active agents, additional UV filters, polymers,
hydrophilic or lipophilic gelling agents, thickeners, preserving
agents, fragrances, bactericides, ceramides, odor absorbers,
antioxidants.
[0333] Fillers
[0334] A composition in accordance with the invention may comprise
at least one filler of organic or mineral nature.
[0335] The term "filler" should be understood to mean colourless or
white solid particles of any shape which are in a form that is
insoluble and dispersed in the medium of the composition. They are
mineral or organic in nature and make it possible to confer
softness and mattness on the composition and a uniform makeup
result.
[0336] The fillers used in the compositions according to the
present invention may be in lamellar, globular or spherical form,
in the form of fibers or in any other intermediate form between
these defined forms.
[0337] The fillers according to the invention may or may not be
surface-coated, and in particular they may be surface-treated with
silicones, amino acids, fluoro derivatives or any other substance
that promotes the dispersion and compatibility of the filler in the
composition.
[0338] Among the mineral fillers that can be used in the
compositions according to the invention, mention may be made of
talc, mica, trimethyl siloxysilicate, kaolin, bentone, calcium
carbonate, magnesium hydrogen carbonate, hydroxyapatite, boron
nitride, perlite, glass or ceramic microcapsules, and mixtures
thereof.
[0339] Among the organic fillers that can be used in the
compositions according to the invention, mention may be made of
polyamide powders (Nylon.RTM. Orgasol from Atochem),
poly-.beta.-alanine and polyethylene powders,
polytetrafluoroethylene (Teflon.RTM. from DuPont) powders,
lauroyllysine, starch, modified or unmodified, specially oxidized
ester modified starch, such as acetylated oxidized starch sold
under the tradename GF-A390 by the company Suzhou Gaofeng,
tetrafluoroethylene polymer powders, hollow polymer microspheres,
such as Expancel (Nobel Industrie), metal soaps derived from
organic carboxylic acids containing from 8 to 22 carbon atoms,
preferably from 12 to 18 carbon atoms, for example zinc stearate,
magnesium stearate or lithium stearate, zinc laurate, magnesium
myristate, Polypore.RTM. L 200 (Chemdal Corporation), silicone
resin microbeads (Tospearl.RTM. from Toshiba, for example),
polyurethane powders, in particular powders of crosslinked
polyurethane comprising a copolymer, said copolymer comprising
trimethylol hexyllactone, for instance the hexamethylene
diisocyanate/trimethylol hexyllactone polymer sold under the name
Plastic Powder D-400.RTM. or Plastic Powder D-800.RTM. by the
company Toshiki, carnauba microwaxes, such as the product sold
under the name MicroCare 350.RTM. by the company Micro Powders,
microwaxes of synthetic wax, such as the product sold under the
name MicroEase 114S.RTM. by the company Micro Powders, microwaxes
constituted of a mixture of carnauba wax and of polyethylene wax,
such as those sold under the names MicroCare 300.RTM. and 310.RTM.
by the company Micro Powders, microwaxes constituted of a mixture
of carnauba wax and of synthetic wax, such as the product sold
under the name MicroCare 325.RTM. by the company Micro Powders,
polyethylene microwaxes, such as those sold under the names
Micropoly 200.RTM., 220.RTM., 220L.RTM. and 250S.RTM. by the
company Micro Powders; and mixtutres thereof.
[0340] Advantageously, the filler suitable for the composition of
the present invention is perlite. The perlite is an off-white solid
powder composed of inert amorphous vitreum particles, whose main
components are potassium, sodium, and aluminosilicate without
peculiar smell. The perlite has anti-sweet and oil control ability,
thus the introduction of perlite in the formula can ensure the long
wear of makeup result and also longer protection delivered by this
composition.
[0341] Preferably, the at least one filler is present in the
composition of the present invention from 0 to 20% by weight,
preferably from 0.01% to 10%, more preferably from 0.1% to 5% by
weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0342] These additional adjuvants may be present in the composition
in a proportion of from 1% to 50% by weight and especially from 2%
to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
Depending on their nature, these adjuvants may be introduced into
the fatty phase or into the aqueous phase of the composition, or
into lipid vesicles. In any case, these adjuvants, and the
proportions thereof, will be chosen by a person skilled in the art
such that the advantageous properties of the compounds according to
the invention are not, or are not substantially, adversely affected
by the envisaged addition.
[0343] The cosmetic composition according to the present
application can protect the skin against UV radiation and
pro-oxidation.
[0344] The composition is stable under various temperature, such as
4.degree. C., room temperature (25.degree. C., 2 months),
45.degree. C., and 45.degree. C. (2 months).
[0345] According to another aspect of the present invention, there
is provided a process for preparing a composition according to the
present invention comprising mixing at least one UV filter, at
least one SPF booster and/or at least one composite particle in
spherical form, and at least one anti-oxidation active
ingredient.
[0346] According to one aspect of the present invention, there is
provided use of a combination of at least one UV filter, at least
one SPF booster, and/or at least one composite particle in
spherical form, and at least one anti-oxidation active ingredient
in producing a composition for protecting the skin from UV
radiation and pro-oxidation.
[0347] Galenical Form
[0348] The compositions according to the invention as defined above
may be in any of the galenical forms conventionally used for
topical application, and in particular in the form of aqueous or
aqueous-alcoholic solutions, of oil-in-water (O/W) or water-in-oil
(W/O) or multiple (triple: W/O/W or O/W/O) emulsions, of aqueous
gels, or of dispersions of a fatty phase in an aqueous phase by
means of polymeric microparticles such as microspheres and
microcapsules, or of lipid vesicles of ionic and/or nonionic type
(liposomes, niosomes, oleosomes), of microemulsions or of thin
films.
[0349] In addition, the compositions used according to the
invention may be more or less fluid and may have the appearance of
a white or coloured cream, an ointment, a milk, a lotion, a serum,
a paste or a foam. They may be optionally applied to the skin in
the form of an aerosol.
[0350] In a preferred embodiment, the composition is a make-up
product, such as a BB cream, a foundation, a face powder, a lip
gloss, a lipstick, an eyeshadow.
[0351] In another embodiment, the composition is a skin-care
product, such as lotions, milks, creams of thicker or thinner
consistency, gels and cream-gels. They may optionally be packaged
as an aerosol and take the form of a foam or spray. Unless
otherwise indicated, all numbers expressing quantities of
ingredients, reaction conditions, and so forth used in the
specification and claims are to be understood as being modified in
all instances by the term "about."
[0352] Accordingly, unless indicated to the contrary, the numerical
parameters set forth in the following specification and attached
claims are approximations that may vary depending upon the desired
properties sought to be obtained by the present invention.
[0353] Notwithstanding that the numerical ranges and parameters
setting forth the broad scope of the invention are approximations,
the numerical values set forth in the specific examples are
reported as precisely as possible.
[0354] Any numerical value, however, inherently contain certain
errors necessarily resulting from the standard deviation found in
their respective measurements. The following examples are intended
to illustrate the invention without limiting the scope as a result.
The percentages are given on a weight basis.
[0355] The invention will now be illustrated by means of the
following non-limiting examples. The amounts of the ingredients in
the following formulation examples are expressed as % by weight
related back to the entire formulation.
EXAMPLES
Example 1-6: Preparation Examples
[0356] The following formulations were prepared following the steps
of:
[0357] Mixing components for phase A listed in the following table
while heating the mixture to 70.degree. C. for 5 minutes, and
cooling down to 25.degree. C., until the mixture is
homogeneous;
[0358] Mixing components for phase B at 25.degree. C. until
homogeneity;
[0359] Adding phase B to phase A listed in the following table
while homogenizing for 15 minutes under 25.degree. C., with the
speed of 2500 rpm, using homogenizer Turbolab 2500 sold by the
company Piere Guerin Technologie under the tradename Moritz.
TABLE-US-00001 concentration Ex. 6 Ex. 1 Ex. 2 Ex. 3 Ex. 4 Ex. 5
(compar- Phase Comercial name supplier INCI NAME (inventive)
(inventive) (inventive) (inventive) (inventive) ative) A ABIL EM 90
EVONIK CETYL 3 3 3 3 3 3 GOLDSCHMIDT PEG/PPG-10/1 DIMETHICONE B
BALANCE NESTLE XANTHAN GUM 0.15 0.15 0.15 0.15 0.15 0.15 LIPIDS,
TYPE WORLD TRADE 13B CORPORATION A ISOLAN GI 34 EVONIK
POLYGLYCERYL-4 1 1 1 1 1 1 GOLDSCHMIDT ISOSTEARATE A
NAI-C33-9001-10 MIYOSHI KASEI IRON OXIDES (and) 0.95 0.95 0.95 0.95
0.95 0.95 DISODIUM STEAROYL GLUTAMATE (and) ALUMINUM HYDROXIDE A
NAI-C33-8001-10 MIYOSHI KASEI IRON OXIDES (and) 0.33 0.33 0.33 0.33
0.33 0.33 DISODIUM STEAROYL GLUTAMATE (and) ALUMINUM HYDROXIDE A
KSG 16 SHIN ETSU DIMETHICONE (and) 3.1 3.1 3.1 3.1 3.1 3.1
DIMETHICONE/VINYL DIMETHICONE CROSSPOLYMER B SEL GRAIN
BIOTECHMARINE SODIUM CHLORIDE 0.7 0.7 0.7 0.7 0.7 0.7 B WATER QS
100 QS 100 QS 100 QS 100 QS 100 QS 100 A METAPIGMENT* 2 2 2 2 2 2 A
DM-FLUID-2CS SHIN ETSU DIMETHICONE 21.2 21.2 21.2 20.7 21.2 21.2 A
Parsol MCX DSM Nutritional ETHYLHEXYL 6 6 6 6 6 6 Products
METHOXYCINNAMATE A BWBO-12 Kobo IRON OXIDES (and) 0.22 0.22 0.22
0.22 0.22 0.22 DISODIUM STEAROYL GLUTAMATE (and) ALUMINUM HYDROXIDE
A NAI-TAO-77891 Miyoshi Kasei TITANIUM DIOXIDE 12.5 12.5 12.5 12.5
12.5 12.5 (and) DISODIUM STEAROYL GLUTAMATE (and) ALUMINUM
HYDROXIDE B PHYTO- ISP VINCIENCE HYDROLYZED 0.003 -- -- 0.003 --
QUINTESCINE G (ASHLAND) TRITICUM MONOCOCCUM SEED EXTRACT B
PHYTOVITYL C SOLABIA ZEA MAYS (CORN) -- 0.005 -- 0.005 -- KERNEL
EXTRACT A DL ALPHA DSM TOCOPHEROL -- -- 0.5 0.5 -- TOCOPHEROL
NUTRITIONAL (0410276) PRODUCTS A ELLAGIC ACID -- -- -- -- -- 0.5 B
GLYCOFILM SOLABIA BIOSACCHARIDE -- -- -- -- 0.01 -- 1.5P GUM-4
*composite particle in spherical form, composed of 35 wt % of
particles A.sub.1 (styrene/acrylate copolymer) of 350 nm, 15 wt %
of particles A.sub.2 (PMMA) of 6 .mu.m and 50 wt % of particulate
UV-screening agent (TiO2) of 15 nm.
Example 7: Evaluation Example
[0360] Evaluations of the anti UV radiation, anti-oxidation
effects, as well as the stabilities, including in vivo SPF tests
and in vivo PPD tests, in-vitro anti-oxidation tests, and stability
tests of the examples 1 to 6 were performed.
[0361] The in vivo SPF tests, the Sun Protection Factor (SPF) of
the examples 1 to 6 were evaluated on human skin as defined by the
FDA Sunscreen Final Rule; 21 CFR Parts 201 and 310 [Docket No.
FDA-1978-N-0018] (formerly Docket No. 1978N-0038), RIN 0910-AF43,
Labeling and Effectiveness Testing; Sunscreen Drug Products For
Over-the Counter Human Use [FR Doc. 2011-14766 Filed Jun. 16, 2011;
Publication Date: Jun. 17, 2011] using a Xenon arc solar simulator
as the UV source.
[0362] The in vivo PPD tests of the examples 1 to 6 were conducted
according to the Japan Cosmetic Industry
Association--J.C.I.A--Measurement Standards for UVA Protection
Efficacy issued Nov. 21, 1995 and effective as of Jan. 1, 1996. The
UVAPPD sun protection factor (UVAPPD SPF) is expressed
mathematically by the ratio of the UV-A radiation dose necessary to
reach the pigmentation threshold with the UV-screening agent
(MPPDp) to the UV-A radiation dose necessary to reach the
pigmentation threshold without UV-screening agent (MPPDnp).
[0363] The principle of the in-vitro anti-oxidation test used was
determined via the determination of squalene and its product of
photo-oxidation efficiency of an asset against this form of
photo-peroxidation.
[0364] The test made use of squalene in the presence of a
photosensitizer, hematoporphyrin. Under the action of UVA,
haematoporphyrin passes an excited state. By successive reaction of
singlet oxygen (.sup.1O.sub.2) was generated. This highly reactive
form of oxygen degraded squalene oxidation of double bonds and
breaking of these bonds and the formation of degradation products,
peroxides squalene.
[0365] Under the test, exposure squalene associated with
hematoporphyrin was performed in the presence of compositions
obtained according to Examples 1-6.
[0366] Squalene is one of lipids representative of sebaceous
activity and the formation of squalene peroxide reflects the degree
of sebum superficial damage. Expose the lipids with UVA, a part of
squalene transform into peroxide squalene. Using LC/DAD&MS/MS
to quantify the ratio of peroxide squalene to squalene for both the
sebum treated with placebo and treated with the examples, calculate
the change of ratio and express as inhibition. The higher
inhibition represents the better anti-oxidation effect of the
example.
[0367] The reaction medium is ethanol.
[0368] The (hematoporphyrin squalene/(80/20 v: v)+each compostion)
mixture is exposed for 45 min to UVA (UVA 5 joules/cm.sup.2).
[0369] The dosage of squalene and squalene peroxides is done by
HPLC/UV.
[0370] Product Reference:
[0371] Squalene [Sigma S-3626].
[0372] Haematoporphyrin Free Base (approx. 70%) [Sigma ref
H-7253]
[0373] The stability tests were conducted by leaving the examples
1-6 under 4.degree. C., 25.degree. C., 37.degree. C., and
45.degree. C. for 2 months, and investigating the appearance of the
examples.
[0374] The results were as follows:
TABLE-US-00002 Example Ex. 1 Ex. 2 Ex. 3 Ex. 4 Ex. 5 Ex. 6 Test
(inventive) (inventive) (inventive) (inventive) (inventive)
(Comparative) SPF 60.7 60.4 61.2 63.6 65.3 58.8 PPD 20.1 20.9 21.6
22.9 24.1 18.7 Anti-oxidation 87% 88% 87% 93% 86% 84% (%
inhibition) Stability stable stable stable stable stable Unstable
under 45.degree. C., emulsion broken
[0375] Comments:
[0376] The results shows that as compared with the comparative
example 6, the examples 1-5 according to the present invention have
improved performance on sun protection, anti-oxidation effect and
are stable over time.
[0377] While illustrative examples of the invention have been
described above, it is, of course, understood that many and various
modifications will be apparent to those of ordinary skill in the
relevant art, or may become apparent as the art develops, in the
light of the foregoing description. Such modifications are
contemplated as being within the spirit and scope of the invention
or inventions disclosed in this specification.
* * * * *