U.S. patent application number 15/605361 was filed with the patent office on 2017-09-21 for composition comprising conditioning and/or styling polymer.
This patent application is currently assigned to HERCULES LLC. The applicant listed for this patent is HERCULES LLC. Invention is credited to Michael Franzke, Gijsbert Kroon, Lidia Kulcsar, Tuttu Nuutinen, Nathalie Sieverling.
Application Number | 20170266099 15/605361 |
Document ID | / |
Family ID | 50628158 |
Filed Date | 2017-09-21 |
United States Patent
Application |
20170266099 |
Kind Code |
A1 |
Kroon; Gijsbert ; et
al. |
September 21, 2017 |
COMPOSITION COMPRISING CONDITIONING AND/OR STYLING POLYMER
Abstract
A personal care conditioning and/or styling composition for a
keratin substrate comprising: (i) about 50 wt. % to 95 wt. % of at
least one cationic or pseudo-cationic monomer selected from the
group consisting of acrylamidopropyl trimethylammonium chloride
(APTAC) and/or Vinylpyrrolidone (VP); (ii) about \ wt. % to 30 wt.
% of at least one anionic monomer selected from the group
consisting of (a) acrylic acid (AA), (b) acrylamido methylpropyl
sulfonate (AMPS), and/or (c) sodium methyl allyl sulfonate (SMAS);
and (iii) about 0.1 wt. % to 20 wt. % of at least one hydrophobic
monomer selected from the group consisting of (a) polyoxyethylene
(PEG)-18-behenylether-methacrylate (BEM) (b)
Lauryl-ethoxylated-methacrylate (LEM), (c) stearyl acrylate (SA),
(d) Stream-10-allyl-ether, (e) Vinylcaprolactam (V-cap), and/or (f)
Hydroxyethyl-pyrrolidone-methacrylate (M06). Also described is a
process of preparing said polymer, and its method of use.
Inventors: |
Kroon; Gijsbert;
(Giessenburg, NL) ; Franzke; Michael;
(Barendrecht, NL) ; Sieverling; Nathalie;
(Duisburg, DE) ; Nuutinen; Tuttu; (Delft, NL)
; Kulcsar; Lidia; (Flanders, NJ) |
|
Applicant: |
Name |
City |
State |
Country |
Type |
HERCULES LLC |
Wilmington |
DE |
US |
|
|
Assignee: |
HERCULES LLC
Wilmington
DE
|
Family ID: |
50628158 |
Appl. No.: |
15/605361 |
Filed: |
May 25, 2017 |
Related U.S. Patent Documents
|
|
|
|
|
|
Application
Number |
Filing Date |
Patent Number |
|
|
14440798 |
May 5, 2015 |
9662293 |
|
|
PCT/US13/68439 |
Nov 5, 2013 |
|
|
|
15605361 |
|
|
|
|
61722475 |
Nov 5, 2012 |
|
|
|
Current U.S.
Class: |
1/1 |
Current CPC
Class: |
A61K 8/8182 20130101;
A61K 8/8188 20130101; A61Q 5/06 20130101; C08F 222/38 20130101;
A61Q 5/12 20130101; C08F 228/02 20130101; A61K 2800/95 20130101;
A61K 8/817 20130101; A61Q 5/02 20130101; A61Q 5/004 20130101 |
International
Class: |
A61K 8/81 20060101
A61K008/81; A61Q 5/00 20060101 A61Q005/00; A61Q 5/02 20060101
A61Q005/02; A61Q 5/06 20060101 A61Q005/06; A61Q 5/12 20060101
A61Q005/12; C08F 222/38 20060101 C08F222/38; C08F 228/02 20060101
C08F228/02 |
Claims
1. A personal care conditioning and/or styling composition for
keratin substrate comprising: A. at least one conditioning and/or
styling ter/tetra polymer obtained from polymerizing: (i) about 50
wt. % to 95 wt. % of at least one cationic or pseudo-cationic
monomer selected from the group consisting of acrylamidopropyl
trimethylammonium chloride (APTAC) and/or Vinylpyrrolidone (VP);
(ii) about 1 wt. % to 30 wt. % of at least one anionic monomer
selected from the group consisting of (a) acrylic acid (AA), (b)
acrylamido methylpropyl sulfonate (AMPS), and/or (c) sodium methyl
allyl sulfonate (SMAS); and (iii) about 0.1 wt. % to 20 wt. % of at
least one hydrophobic monomer selected from the group consisting of
(a) polyoxyethylene (PEG)-18-behenylether methacrylate (BEM) (b)
Lauryl ethoxylated methacrylate (LEM), (c) stearyl acrylate (SA),
(d) vinylcaprolactam (V-cap), (e) Streath-10-allyl-ether, and/or
(f) Hydroxyethyl-pyrrolidone-methacrylate (MO6); B. at least one
cosmetically acceptable excipient; and C. optionally, at least one
effective amount of personal care active ingredient.
2. The composition according to claim 1, wherein said keratin
substrate is hair or skin.
3. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the average
molecular weight of said terpolymer is in the range of from about
100,000 to 1000,000 g/mol as determined by gel permeation
chromatography.
4. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the average
molecular weight of said terpolymer ranges from about 200,000 to
500,000 g/mol as determined by gel permeation chromatography.
5. The composition according to claim 1, wherein said polymer is a
terpolymer.
6. The composition according to claim 1, wherein said personal care
active ingredient is selected from the group consisting of
allantoin, tocopherol nicotinate, niacinamide, retinyl propionate,
palmitoyl-gly-his-lys, phytosterol, isoflavone, dexpanthenol,
panthenol, bisabolol, farnesol, phytantriol, salicylic acid,
zinc/sodium pyridinethione salts, piroctone olamine, selenium
disulfide, tetrahydrocurcumin, glucosamine, N-acteyl glucosamine,
vitamin B.sub.3, retinoids, peptides, phytosterol, dialkanoyl
hydroxyproline, hexamidine, salicylic acid, N-acyl amino acids,
escolols, sunscreen actives, UV-A/UV-B protecting agent, water
soluble vitamins, oil soluble vitamins, hesperedin, mustard seed
extract, glycyrrhizic acid, glycyrrhetinic acid, carnosine,
Butylated Hydroxytoluene (BHT) and Butylated Hydroxyanisole (BHA),
ergothioneine, vanillin, vanillin derivatives, diethylhexyl
syrinylidene malonate, melanostatine, sterol esters, fatty acids,
poly-unsaturated fatty acids, zinc pyrithione (ZPT), anti-fungal
agents, thiol compounds, N-acetyl cysteine, glutathione,
thioglycolate, .beta.-carotene, ubiquinone, amino acids, idebenone,
dehydroacetic acid, Licohalcone A, creatine, creatinine, feverfew
extract, yeast extract, beta glucans, alpha glucans, alone or in
combination.
7. The composition according to claim 1, wherein said polymer has a
cationic degree of substitution (Cat-DS) of greater than about
0.001 units.
8. The composition according to claim 1, wherein said polymer has a
cationic charge density in the range of about 1 meq/g to about 6
meq/g.
9. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the composition is
capable of fixing or treating hair conditioning/styling properties
comprising detangling, wet combability, wet feel, dry combability,
dry feel, sheen, static flyaway control, hydrophobicity, surface
smoothening, improved deposition, no build-up, color protection,
and/or curl retention.
10. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the pH of said
personal care compositions is in the range of from about 3 to about
13.
11. The composition according to claim 1, wherein said cosmetically
acceptable excipient is selected from the group consisting of fatty
substances, gelling agents, thickeners, surfactants, moisturizers,
emollients, hydrophilic or lipophilic active agent, antioxidants,
sequestering agents, preserving agents, acidifying or basifying
agents, fragrances, fillers, dyestuffs, emulsifying agents,
solvents, UV-A or UV-B blocker/filters, plant extracts,
moisturizers, proteins, peptides, neutralizing agents, solvents,
silicones and/or reducing agents.
12. The composition according to claim 1 wherein said personal care
composition is an appropriate product selected from the group
consisting of hair-care products, shampoos, hair conditioners,
leave in and rinse off conditioners, styling and treating hair
compositions, hair perming products, hair relaxants, hair
straightners, hair sprays and lacquers, permanent hair dyeing
systems, hair styling mousses, hair gels, semi-permanent hair
dyeing systems, temporary hair dyeing systems, hair bleaching
systems, permanent hair wave systems, hair setting formulations,
skin-care products, bath products, shower products, liquid soaps,
bar soaps, fragrances and/or odoriferous ingredients consisting
preparations, dentifrices, deodorizing and antiperspirant
preparations, decorative preparations, light protection
formulations, shaving lotions, body oils, body lotions, body gels,
treatment creams, Body cleaning products, skin protection
ointments, shaving and aftershave preparations, skin powders,
lipsticks, nail varnishes, eye shadows, mascaras, dry and moist
make-up, rouge, powders, depilatory agents, sun care products,
and/or compositions comprising UV blockers or UV protectors.
13. The composition according to claim 1 wherein said composition
is formulated as an emulsion, a lotion, a gel, a vesicle
dispersion, a paste, a cream, a solid stick, a mousse, a shampoo,
and/or a spray.
14. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the effective
amount of composition used in the personal care composition is in
the range of from about 0.01 wt % to 5.0 wt %.
15. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the effective
amount of composition used in the personal care composition is in
the range of from about 0.05 wt % to 3.0 wt %.
16. A conditioning and/or styling polymer for a keratin substrate
obtained by polymerizing: i. about 50 wt. % to 95 wt. % of at least
one cationic or pseudo-cationic monomer selected from the group
consisting of acrylamidopropyl trimethylammonium chloride (APTAC)
and/or Vinylpyrrolidone (VP); ii. about 1 wt. % to 30 wt. % of at
least one anionic monomer selected from the group consisting of (a)
acrylic acid (AA), (b) acrylamido methylpropyl sulfonate (AMPS),
and/or (c) sodium methyl allyl sulfonate (SMAS); and iii. about 0.1
wt. % to 20 wt. % of at least one hydrophobic monomer selected from
the group consisting of (a) polyoxyethylene
(PEG)-18-behenylether-methacrylate (BEM) (b)
Lauryl-ethoxylated-methacrylate (LEM), (c) stearyl acrylate (SA),
or (d) Streath-10-allyl-ether, (e) vinylcaprolactam (V-cap), and/or
(f) Hydroxyethyl-pyrrolidone-methacrylate (MO6); and wherein said
polymer is a terpolymer or tetrapolymer having a cationic degree of
substitution (Cat-DS) of greater than about 0.001 units, and
wherein the cationic charge density is in the range of about 1
meq/g to about 6 meq/g.
17. (canceled)
18. A conditioning and/or styling terpolymer for a keratin
substrate obtained by polymerizing: i. about 50 wt. % to 95 wt. %
of acrylamidopropyl trimethylammonium chloride (APTAC); ii. about 1
wt. %-30 wt. % of acrylamido methylpropyl sulfonate (AMPS); and
iii. about 0.1 wt. % to 20 wt. % stearyl acrylate (SA); wherein
said terpolymer has a cationic degree of substitution (Cat-DS) of
greater than about 0.001 units, and wherein the cationic charge
density is in the range of about 1 meq/g to about 6 meq/g.
19. A conditioning and/or styling terpolymer for a keratin
substrate obtained by polymerizing: i. about 50 wt. % to 95 wt. %
of acrylamidopropyl trimethylammonium chloride (APTAC); ii. about 1
wt. % to 30 wt. % of sodium methyl allyl sulfonate (SMAS); and iii.
about 0.1 wt. % to 20 wt. % polyoxyethylene (PEG)-18-behenylether
methacrylate (BEM); wherein said terpolymer has a cationic degree
of substitution (Cat-DS) of greater than about 0.001 units, and
wherein the cationic charge density is in the range of about 1
meq/g to about 6 meq/g.
20. A conditioning and/or styling terpolymer for a keratin
substrate obtained by polymerizing: i. about 50 wt. % to 95 wt. %
of acrylamidopropyl trimethylammonium chloride (APTAC); ii. about 1
wt. % to 30 wt. % of sodium methyl allyl sulfonate (SMAS); and iii.
about 0.1 wt. % to 20 wt. % stearyl acrylate (SA); wherein said
terpolymer has a cationic degree of substitution (Cat-DS) of
greater than about 0.001 units, and wherein the cationic charge
density is in the range of about 1 meq/g to about 6 meq/g.
21. (canceled)
22. A method for treating or fixing regular or damaged keratin
substrate comprising contacting said keratin substrate with an
effective amount of the personal care composition of claim 1.
23. A method for washing or caring a keratin substrate comprising
applying an effective amount of the personal care composition of
claim 1.
24. A process for preparing a conditioning and/or styling
terpolymer comprising polymerizing: i. about 50 wt. % to 95 wt. %
of acrylamidopropyl trimethylammonium chloride (APTAC); ii. about 1
wt. % to 30 wt. % of an anionic monomer selected from the group
consisting of (a) acrylic acid (AA), (b) acrylamido methylpropyl
sulfonate (AMPS) or (c) sodium methyl allyl sulfonate (SMAS); and
iii. about 0.1 wt. % to 20 wt. % of a hydrophobic monomer selected
from the group consisting of (a) polyoxyethylene
(PEG)-18-behenylether methacrylate (BEM) or (b) stearyl acrylate
(SA); wherein the prepared terpolymer has a cationic degree of
substitution (Cat-DS) of greater than about 0.001 units, and
wherein the cationic charge density is in the range of about 1
meq/g to about 6 meq/g.
25. The process according to claim 26, wherein the terpolymer is
prepared by radical polymerization, emulsion polymerization, ionic
chain polymerization, bulk polymerization, suspension
polymerization or precipitation polymerization.
26. The process according to claim 26, wherein the average
molecular weight of the terpolymer is in the range of from about
100,000 to 1000,000 g/mol as determined by gel permeation
chromatography.
27. A method of protecting dyed hair color from fading or wash-out
during exposure to air and/or shampooing which comprising
contacting/treating said dyed hair with an effective amount of the
personal care composition of claim 1.
Description
FIELD OF THE INVENTION
[0001] The present application relates to a personal care
composition, and, more particularly, to a personal care composition
comprising a conditioning and/or styling copolymer for a keratin
substrate of hair and/or skin origin.
BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION
[0002] Undamaged virgin hair is smooth and shiny; its cuticles on
the surface of the hair lie down smoothly making the combing easy.
The hair surface is also hydrophobic in nature preventing excessive
water absorption during washing. When the hair is either
mechanically or chemically damaged through bleaching, perming or
coloring, the hair surface becomes rough and frizzy and difficult
to detangle and comb. As the hair surface becomes more hydrophilic,
the resulting hair fibers swell during washing, making the hair
even more difficult to comb.
[0003] Current conditioning and/or styling systems for regular and
damaged hair generally use one or more combinations of cationic
surfactants, amphoteric surfactants, silicones, fatty alcohols,
polyquaterniums, amino acids, proteins, lipids and humectants. Wet
conditioning of regular or damaged hair is accomplished by
neutralizing the anionic charge of the hair by positively charged
surfactants and polymers and creating a hydrophobic layer from
surfactant and polymers. This hydrophobic layer results in a
reduction of the swelling of the hair fibers by making the hair
more hydrophobic and reducing friction of the hair fibers. An
overall result of wet conditioning is improved detangling,
manageability and soft feel of the hair. Upon treatment with
cleansing systems like shampoos, 2/1 shampoos, body washes or
shower gels, the combing performance, detangling properties,
hydrophobicity of the hair and lubricity are not maintained
sufficiently.
[0004] U.S. Pat. No. 6,110,451 assigned to Calgon Coporation
discloses a keratin conditioning composition comprising: (a) about
5% to about 50%, by weight, of a surfactant component selected from
the group consisting of anionic surfactants, amphoteric
surfactants, cationic surfactants, nonionic surfactants, and
zwitterionic surfactants; (b) about 0.05% to about 10%, by weight,
of a water soluble, organic, ampholytic polymer; (c) about 0.05% to
about 10%, by weight, of a water soluble, organic, cationic
polymer; (d) zero to about 70%, by weight, of a water insoluble
liquid; and (e) an aqueous carrier. The method for treating keratin
based substrates according to the present invention comprises
contacting the substrate with such composition.
[0005] U.S. Pat. No. 6,482,776 assigned to Calgon Corporation
discloses a composition comprising a branched or crosslinked
ampholyte polymer wherein the polymer consists essentially of: (a)
from 1 to about 99 mol % of a monomer selected from the group
consisting of acrylamidopropyltrimethyl ammonium halide and
methacrylamidoproplytrimethyl ammonium halide; (b) from 1 to about
80 mol % of a monomer selected from the group consisting of acrylic
acid, methacrylic acid and 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropane sulfonic
acid; (c) from about 0.0001 to about 1 mol % of a monomer selected
from the group consisting of N,N'-methylenebisacrylamide, triallyl
methyl ammonium chloride, allyl methacrylate, n-methylol
acrylamide, polyethylene glycol dimethacrylate, ethylene glycol
dimethacrylate, diethylene glycol dimethacrylate, 1,6-hexanediol
dimethacrylate and allyl sucrose; and (d) from 0.1 to about 70 mol
% of a monomer selected from the group consisting of
C.sub.4-C.sub.22 straight or branched chain alkyl acrylate or alkyl
methacrylate monomers; wherein the mol ratio of (a):(b) ranges from
about 20:80 to about 95:5 and the weight average molecular weight
of the polymer is at least about 1,000.
[0006] PCT Publication No.: WO2000057847A2 assigned to Calgon
Corporation discloses a hair conditioning shampoo composition that
contains (a) a surfactant component that can contain anionic
surfactants and/or amphoteric surfactants (optionally including
zwitterionic and nonionic surfactants), (b) a dispersed, insoluble,
nonionic silicone hair conditioning agent, (c) a water soluble,
organic, ampholytic polymer hair conditioning agent; and (d) an
aqueous carrier. The conditioning shampoo composition optionally
contains an organic, water insoluble, liquid component.
[0007] U.S. Pat. No. 7,737,237 assigned to Phodia Chimie discloses
a controlled structure copolymer comprising a (block A)-(block B)
diblock copolymer, a (block A)-(block B)-(block A) triblock
copolymer or a (block B)-(block A)-(block B) triblock
copolymer.
[0008] U.S. Pat. No. 6,451,756 B2 discloses hydrophobically
modified polycarboxylate polymers that are useful for promoting
soil release from fabrics, particularly cotton and
cotton-containing fabrics, by contacting the fabrics with
compositions comprising the polymers.
[0009] US Publication No. 20110271460A1 discloses compositions for
household care which include a cationic nanogel, particularly for
treating and/or modifying hard or textile surfaces. The composition
particularly enables a hydrophilisation of hard surfaces,
particularly useful in cleaning or rinsing operations.
[0010] U.S. Pat. No. 7,115,254 B1 assigned to Nalco Company
discloses a method of treating hair, skin or nails comprising
applying a cosmetically acceptable composition comprising from
about 0.01 to about 40 weight percent, based on polymer solids, of
a stable solution of a cationic copolymer composed of about 1 to
about 99 mole percent diallyl-N,N-disubstituted ammonium halide and
about 99 to about 1 mole percent N-vinylpyrollidone, wherein the
solution as a RSV of about 0.4 to about 10 dL/g to said hair, skin
or nails.
[0011] U.S. Pat. No. 6,110,451 assigned to Calgon Corporation
discloses a keratin conditioning composition is disclosed that
contains (a) a surfactant component that can contain anionic
surfactants, amphoteric surfactants, cationic surfactants, nonionic
surfactants and/or zwitterionic, (b) a water soluble, organic,
ampholytic polymer conditioning agent, (c) a water soluble,
organic, cationic polymer conditioning agent; (d) optionally a
water insoluble liquid; and (e) an aqueous carrier. The
conditioning composition optionally contains a silicone and/or an
organic, water insoluble, liquid. The conditioning composition
according to the present invention is useful in cleaning and/or
conditioning keratin based substrates, such as hair, skin, and
nails.
[0012] US Publication No. 20050226838 assigned to Wella AG
discloses a hair treatment composition contains preferably from
0.01 to 20 percent by weight of at least one
N-hydroxyalkyl-O-benzyl chitosan and from 0.01 to 20 percent by
weight of at least one other hair treatment effective ingredient.
Various methods of treating hair with hair treatment compositions
containing one or more of the N-hydroxyalkyl-O-benzyl chitosans are
described.
[0013] Therefore, there is an increasing demand for hair care
products designed to retain the properties of "virgin hair" and to
prevent possible damage during the chemical and mechanical
treatment. In the present application, the limitations set forth
above are addressed by a personal care conditioning and/or styling
composition for a keratin substrate comprising: (A) at least one
conditioning and/or styling copolymer obtained by polymerizing (i)
about 50 wt. % to 95 wt. % of at least one cationic or
pseudo-cationic monomer; (ii) about 1 wt. % to 30 wt. % of at least
one anionic monomer; and (iii) about 0.1 wt. % to 20 wt. % of at
least one hydrophobic monomer; (B) at least one cosmetically
acceptable excipient; and (C) optionally, at least one effective
amount of personal care active ingredient.
SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION
[0014] The present application provides a personal care
conditioning and/or styling composition for a keratin substrate
comprising: (A) at least one conditioning and/or styling polymer
obtained by polymerizing (i) about 50 wt. % to 95 wt. % of at least
one cationic or pseudo-cationic monomer selected from the group
consisting of acrylamidopropyl trimethylammonium chloride (APTAC)
and/or Vinylpyrrolidone (VP); (ii) about 1 wt. % to 30 wt. % of at
least one anionic monomer selected from the group consisting of (a)
acrylic acid (AA), (b) acrylamido methylpropyl sulfonate (AMPS),
and/or (c) sodium methyl allyl sulfonate (SMAS); and (iii) about
0.1 wt. % to 20 wt. % of at least one hydrophobic monomer selected
from the group consisting of (a) polyoxyethylene
(PEG)-18-behenylether-methacrylate (BEM) (b)
Lauryl-ethoxylated-methacrylate (LEM), (c) stearyl acrylate (SA),
(d) Streath-10-allyl-ether (BRIJ), (e) vinylcaprolactam (V-Cap),
and/or (f) Hydroxyethyl-pyrrolidone-methacrylate (M06); (B) at
least one cosmetically acceptable excipient; and (C) optionally, at
least one effective amount of personal care active ingredient.
[0015] An important embodiment of the present application is to
provide a personal care composition which is capable of fixing or
treating hair conditioning and/or styling properties comprising
detangling, wet combability, wet feel, dry combability, dry feel,
sheen, static flyaway control, hydrophobicity, surface smoothening,
improved deposition, no build-up, color protection, and/or curl
retention. Moreover, the composition is able to provide "virgin
feel condition" to the hair after multiple washes particularly with
respect to (1) increased hydrophobicity, (2) improved detangling
and wet combability, (3) improved deposition, and/or (4) no
build-up.
[0016] Yet another aspect of the present application is to provide
a method for treating or fixing regular/damaged keratin substrate
comprising contacting the keratin substrate with an effective
amount of personal care composition comprising a conditioning
and/or styling copolymer of (i) about 50 wt. % to 95 wt. % of at
least one cationic or pseudo-cationic monomer selected from the
group consisting of acrylamidopropyl trimethylammonium chloride
(APTAC) and/or Vinylpyrrolidone (VP); (ii) about 1 wt. % to 30 wt.
% of at least one anionic monomer selected from the group
consisting of (a) acrylic acid (AA), (b) acrylamido methylpropyl
sulfonate (AMPS), and/or (c) sodium methyl allyl sulfonate (SMAS);
and (iii) about 0.1 wt. % to 20 wt. % of at least one hydrophobic
monomer selected from the group consisting of (a)
polyoxyethylene-18-behenylether-methacrylate (BEM) (b)
Lauryl-ethoxylated-methacrylate (LEM), (c) stearyl acrylate (SA),
(d) Streath-10-allyl-ether (BRIJ), (e) vinylcaprolactam (V-cap)
and/or (f) Hydroxyethyl-pyrrolidone-methacrylate (M06); (B) at
least one cosmetically acceptable excipient; and (C) optionally, at
least one effective amount of personal care active ingredient; and
wherein the copolymer is preferably a terpolymer or tetrapolymer
having a cationic degree of substitution (Cat-DS) of greater than
about 0.001 units, and wherein the cationic charge density is in
the range of about 1 meq/g to about 6 meq/g.
[0017] Still another aspect of the present application is to
provide a process for preparing a conditioning and/or styling
copolymer comprising polymerizing: (i) about 50 wt. % to 95 wt. %
of at least one cationic or pseudo-cationic monomer selected from
the group consisting of acrylamidopropyl trimethylammonium chloride
(APTAC) and/or Vinylpyrrolidone (VP); (ii) about 1 wt. % to 30 wt.
% of at least one anionic monomer selected from the group
consisting of (a) acrylic acid (AA), (b) acrylamido methylpropyl
sulfonate (AMPS), and/or (c) sodium methyl allyl sulfonate (SMAS);
and (iii) about 0.1 wt. % to 20 wt. % of at least one hydrophobic
monomer selected from the group consisting of (a) polyoxyethylene
(PEG)-18-behenylether-methacrylate (BEM) (b)
Lauryl-ethoxylated-methacrylate (LEM), (c) stearyl acrylate (SA),
or (d) Streath-10-allyl-ether (BRIJ), (e) vinylcaprolactam (V-cap),
and/or (f) Hydroxyethyl-pyrrolidone-methacrylate (M06); and wherein
said co-polymer is a terpolymer or tetrapolymer having a cationic
degree of substitution (Cat-DS) of greater than about 0.001 units,
and wherein the cationic charge density is in the range of about 1
meq/g to about 6 meq/g.
BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE FIGURES
[0018] Further embodiments of the present invention can be
understood with the appended figures.
[0019] FIG. 1 is a picture of Texture Analyzer employed for
measuring wet combability
[0020] FIG. 2 shows a wet comb energy on bleached hair for
conditioner
[0021] FIG. 3 shows a wet comb energy on bleached hair for
conditioner
[0022] FIG. 4 shows a wet comb energy on bleached hair for
shampoos
[0023] FIG. 5 shows a hydrophobicity evaluation of terpolymers
[0024] FIG. 6 shows a wet stage sensory evaluation after 5 washing
cycles
[0025] FIG. 7 shows a dry stage sensory evaluation after 5 washings
cycles
[0026] FIG. 8 shows a wet comb energy on bleached hair for sulfate
free shampoos
[0027] FIG. 9 to 12 shows durable styling properties of hair
tresses
[0028] FIG. 13 shows curl retention study of homo/terpolymers on
hair tresses
[0029] FIG. 14 shows curl retention demonstration of
Homo/Terpolymer at 50%.+-.2% humidity, 25.degree. C..+-.2.degree.
C.
[0030] FIG. 15 shows curl retention demonstration in absence of
homo/terpolymer at 50% 2% humidity, 25.degree. C..+-.2.degree.
C.
[0031] FIG. 16 shows distribution of shine of curve of APTAC
Homopolymer
[0032] FIG. 17 shows distribution of shine of curve of APTAC
Terpolymer
[0033] FIG. 18 shows distribution of shine of curve of a commercial
mousse
[0034] FIG. 19 shows distribution of shine of curve of copolymer
VC713 mousse
DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION
[0035] While this specification concludes with claims particularly
pointing out and distinctly claiming that which is regarded as the
invention, it is anticipated that the invention can be more readily
understood through reading the following detailed description of
the invention and study of the included examples
[0036] The singular forms "a," "an," and "the" include plural forms
unless the context clearly dictates otherwise specified or clearly
implied to the contrary by the context in which the reference is
made. The term "Comprising" and "Comprises of" includes the more
restrictive claims such as "Consisting essentially of" and
"Consisting of".
[0037] The term "about" can indicate a difference of 10 percent of
the value specified. Numerical ranges as used herein are meant to
include every number and subset of numbers enclosed within that
range, whether particularly disclosed or not. Further, these
numerical ranges should be construed as providing support for a
claim directed to any number or subset of numbers in that
range.
[0038] All percentages, parts, proportions and ratios as used
herein, are by weight of the total composition, unless otherwise
specified. All such weights as they pertain to listed ingredients
are based on the active level and, therefore; do not include
solvents or by-products that may be included in commercially
available materials, unless otherwise specified.
[0039] All references to singular characteristics or limitations of
the present invention shall include the corresponding plural
characteristic or limitation, and vice-versa, unless otherwise
specified or clearly implied to the contrary by the context in
which the reference is made.
[0040] As used herein, the words "preferred" or "preferably" and
variants refer to embodiments of the invention that afford certain
benefits, under certain circumstances. However, other embodiments
may also be preferred, under the same or other circumstances.
Furthermore, the recitation of one or more preferred embodiments
does not imply that other embodiments are not useful, and is not
intended to exclude other embodiments from the scope of the
invention.
[0041] References herein to "one embodiment" or "one aspect" or
"one version" or "one objective" of the invention include one or
more such embodiment, aspect, version or objective, unless the
context clearly dictates otherwise.
[0042] All publications, articles, papers, patents, patent
publications, and other references cited herein are hereby
incorporated herein in their entirety for all purposes to the
extent consistent with the disclosure herein.
[0043] The term "polymer" refers to a compound comprising repeating
structural units (monomers) connected by covalent chemical bonds.
Polymers may be further derivatized, crosslinked, grafted or
end-capped. Non-limiting examples of polymers include copolymers,
terpolymers, quaternary polymers, and homologues. The term
"copolymer" refers to a polymer consisting essentially of two or
more different types of monomers polymerized to obtain said
copolymer, for example, a terpolymer or tetrapolymer and the
like.
[0044] The term "conditioning agents", and grammatical variations
thereof, as it relates to compositions for hair care includes
cosmetically and pharmaceutically useful materials that can
function as humectants, moisturizers, and emollients. It is
recognized that some conditioning agents can serve more than one
function in a composition, such as an emulsifying agent, a
lubricant, and/or a solvent. Conditioning agents include any
material which is used to give a particular conditioning benefit to
hair. In hair treatment compositions, suitable conditioning agents
are those which deliver one or more benefits relating to shine,
softness, combability, antistatic properties, wet-handling, damage
repair, manageability, detangling, body, and lubricity.
[0045] What is described herein is a personal care conditioning
and/or styling composition for keratin substrate comprising: (A) at
least one conditioning and/or styling co-polymer obtained by
polymerizing (i) about 50 wt. % to 95 wt. % of at least one
cationic or pseudo-cationic monomer selected from the group
consisting of acrylamidopropyl trimethylammonium chloride (APTAC)
and/or Vinylpyrrolidone (VP); (ii) about 1 wt. % to 30 wt. % of at
least one anionic monomer selected from the group consisting of (a)
acrylic acid (AA), (b) acrylamido methylpropyl sulfonate (AMPS),
and/or (c) sodium methyl allyl sulfonate (SMAS); and (iii) about
0.1 wt. % to 20 wt. % of at least one hydrophobic monomer selected
from the group consisting of (a)
polyoxyethylene-18-behenylether-methacrylate (BEM) (b)
Lauryl-ethoxylated-methacrylate (LEM), (c) stearyl acrylate (SA),
(d) Streath-10-allyl-ether (BRIJ), (e) vinylcaprolactam (V-Cap),
and/or (f) Hydroxyethyl-pyrrolidone-methacrylate (M06); (B) at
least one cosmetically acceptable excipient; and (C) optionally, at
least one effective amount of personal care active ingredient.
[0046] The preferred range of cationic or pseudo-cationic polymer
(APTAC/VP) for preparing a desired copolymer of present application
include but not limited to 50 wt. % to 55 wt. %; 56 wt. % to 60 wt.
%; 61 wt. % to 65 wt. %; 66 wt. % to 70 wt. %; 71 wt. % to 75 wt.
%; 76 wt. % to 80 wt. %; 81 wt. % to 85 wt. %; 86 wt. % to 90 wt.
%; 91 wt. % to 95 wt. %. Most preferred range is 86 wt. % to 95 wt.
% of the terpolymer.
[0047] The preferred range of an anionic monomer employed for
preparing desired copolymer of present application includes but is
not limited to 1 wt. % to 5 wt. %; 6 wt. % to 10 wt. %; 11 wt. % to
15 wt. %; 16 wt. % to 20 wt. %; 21 wt. % to 25 wt. %; 26 wt. % to
30 wt. %.
[0048] Most preferred range is 1 wt. % to 10 wt. % of the
terpolymer.
[0049] The preferred range of a hydrophobic monomer employed for
preparing a desired copolymer of present application includes but
is not limited to 0.01 wt. % to 5 wt. %; 6 wt. % to 10 wt. %; 1 wt.
% to 15 wt. %; 16 wt. % to 20 wt. %. Most preferred range is 0.01
wt. % to 5 wt. % of the terpolymer.
[0050] The term "keratin substrate" as used herein includes skin,
nails and "keratin fibers", and wherein the "keratin fibers" means
hair on head, eyelashes, eyebrows and other mammalian bodily
hair.
[0051] The weight average molecular weight of said copolymer of the
present application, as determined by gel permeation chromatography
(GPC), is at least about 10,000, preferably about 100,000 to about
2,000,000, more preferably from about 200,000 to about 500,000
g/mol, alternatively, viscometry can also be used to determine the
average molecular weight of the present application.
[0052] The copolymer of use in the personal care composition of the
invention has a cationic degree of substitution (Cat-DS) of greater
than about 0.001 units. Preferably, the copolymer is a terpolymer
or tetrapolymer having a cationic degree of substitution in the
range of 0.001 to about 5.0, preferably in the range of from about
0.2 to about 3.0, more preferably in the range of about 0.4 to
about 3.0.
[0053] Further, the terpolymer or tetrapolymer of the present
invention has a cationic charge density in the range of from about
1 meq/g to about 8 meq/g. Preferable cationic charge density is in
the range of from about 3.5 to about 7 meq/g, more preferably in
the range of about 3.5 to about 5.5 meq/g.
[0054] A conditioning and/or styling terpolymer/tetrapolymer of the
present application is obtained by polymerizing: (i) about 50 wt. %
to 95 wt. % of at least one cationic or pseudo-cationic monomer
selected from the group consisting of acrylamidopropyl
trimethylammonium chloride (APTAC) and/or Vinylpyrrolidone (VP);
(ii) about 1 wt. % to 30 wt. % of at least one anionic monomer
selected from the group consisting of (a) acrylic acid (AA), (b)
acrylamido methylpropyl sulfonate (AMPS), and/or (c) sodium methyl
allyl sulfonate (SMAS); and (iii) about 0.1 wt. % to 20 wt. % of at
least one hydrophobic monomer selected from the group consisting of
(a) polyoxyethylene (PEG)-18-behenylether-methacrylate (BEM) (b)
Lauryl-ethoxylated-methacrylate (LEM), (c) stearyl acrylate (SA),
or (d) Streath-10-allyl-ether (BRIJ), (e) vinylcaprolactam (V-cap),
and/or (f) Hydroxyethyl-pyrrolidone-methacrylate (M06); and wherein
said co-polymer is a terpolymer or tetrapolymer having a cationic
degree of substitution (Cat-DS) of greater than about 0.001 units,
and wherein the cationic charge density is in the range of about 1
meq/g to about 6 meq/g.
[0055] Non-limiting terpolymers or tetrapolymers of the present
application include but are not limited to: [0056] A. a terpolymer
of (i) about 50 wt. % to 95 wt. % of acrylamidopropyl
trimethylammonium chloride (APTAC), a cationic monomer; (ii) about
1 wt. % to 30 wt. % of acrylamido methylpropyl sulfonate (AMPS), an
anionic monomer; and (iii) about 0.1 wt. % to 20 wt. %
polyoxyethylene (PEG)-18-behenylether methacrylate (BEM), a
hydrophobic monomer. [0057] B. a terpolymer of (i) about 50 wt. %
to 95 wt. % of acrylamidopropyl trimethylammonium chloride (APTAC),
a cationic monomer; (ii) about 1 wt. %-30 wt. % of acrylamido
methylpropyl sulfonate (AMPS), an anionic monomer; and (iii) about
0.1 wt. % to 20 wt. % stearyl acrylate (SA), a hydrophobic monomer.
[0058] C. a terpolymer of (i) about 50 wt. % to 95 wt. % of
acrylamidopropyl trimethylammonium chloride (APTAC), a cationic
monomer; (ii) about 1 wt. % to 30 wt. % of sodium methyl allyl
sulfonate (SMAS), an anionic monomer; and (iii) about 0.1 wt. % to
20 wt. % polyoxyethylene (PEG)-18-behenylether methacrylate (BEM),
a hydrophobic monomer. [0059] D. a terpolymer of (i) about 50 wt. %
to 95 wt. % of acrylamidopropyl trimethylammonium chloride (APTAC),
a cationic monomer; (ii) about 1 wt. % to 30 wt. % of sodium methyl
allyl sulfonate (SMAS), an anionic monomer; and (iii) about 0.1 wt.
% to 20 wt. % stearyl acrylate (SA), a hydrophobic monomer. [0060]
E. a terpolymer of (i) about 50 wt. % to 95 wt. % of
acrylamidopropyl trimethylammonium chloride (APTAC), a cationic
monomer; (ii) about 1 wt. % to 30 wt. % of acrylic acid (AA), an
anionic monomer; and (iii) about 0.1 wt. % to 20 wt. %
polyoxyethylene (PEG)-18-behenylether methacrylate (BEM), a
hydrophobic monomer. [0061] F. a tetrapolymer of (i) about 50 wt. %
to 95 wt. % of acrylic acidamidopropyl trimethylammonium chloride
(APTAC), a cationic monomer; (ii) about 1 wt. % to 30 wt. % of
acrylic acid (AA), an anionic monomer; (iii) about 0.1 wt. % to 20
wt. % polyoxyethylene (PEG)-18-behenylether methacrylate (BEM), a
hydrophobic monomer; and (iv) about 0.1 wt. % to 20 wt. %
vinylcaprolactam (V-cap), a hydrophobic monomer. [0062] G. a
tetrapolymer of (i) about 50 wt. % to 95 wt. % of acrylic
acidamidopropyl trimethylammonium chloride (APTAC), a cationic
monomer; (ii) about 50 wt. % to 95 wt. % of Vinylpyrrolidone (VP),
a pseudo-cationic monomer; (iii) about 1 wt. % to 30 wt. % of
acrylic acid (AA), an anionic monomer; and (iv) about 0.1 wt. % to
20 wt. % polyoxyethylene (PEG)-18-behenylether methacrylate (BEM),
a hydrophobic monomer.
[0063] A process for preparing a conditioning and/or styling
copolymer comprising polymerizing: (i) about 50 wt. % to 95 wt. %
of at least one cationic or pseudo-cationic monomer selected from
the group consisting of acrylamidopropyl trimethylammonium chloride
(APTAC) and/or Vinylpyrrolidone (VP); (ii) about 1 wt. % to 30 wt.
% of at least one anionic monomer selected from the group
consisting of (a) acrylic acid (AA), (b) acrylamido methylpropyl
sulfonate (AMPS), and/or (c) sodium methyl allyl sulfonate (SMAS);
and (iii) about 0.1 wt. % to 20 wt. % of at least one hydrophobic
monomer selected from the group consisting of (a) polyoxyethylene
(PEG)-18-behenylether-methacrylate (BEM) (b)
Lauryl-ethoxylated-methacrylate (LEM), (c) stearyl acrylate (SA),
(d) Streath-10-allyl-ether (BRIJ), or (e) vinylcaprolactam (V-cap),
and/or (f) Hydroxyethyl-pyrrolidone-methacrylate (M06); and wherein
said co-polymer is a terpolymer or tetrapolymer having a cationic
degree of substitution (Cat-DS) of greater than about 0.001 units,
and wherein the cationic charge density is in the range of about 1
meq/g to about 6 meq/g.
[0064] According to one important aspect of the present
application, the above disclosed terpolymers and tetrapolymers of
the present application can advantageously be combined and
formulated with (1) at least one anionic, cationic, nonionic and/or
zwitter-ionic/amphoteric polymers or mixtures thereof, (2) at least
one personal care active ingredient, and/or (3) at least one
cosmetically acceptable excipient.
[0065] The cationic polymers that can be used along with
conditioning and/or styling copolymer of this application are those
known to improve the cosmetic properties of hair which may be
normal or damaged in nature. The expression "cationic polymer" as
used herein, indicates any polymer containing cationic groups
and/or ionizable groups in cationic groups. The cationic polymers
used generally have a molecular weight the average number of which
falls between about 500 and 5,000,000 and preferably between 1000
and 3,000,000. The preferred cationic polymers are chosen from
among those containing units including primary, secondary,
tertiary, and/or quaternary amine groups that may either form part
of the main polymer chain or a side chain. Useful cationic polymers
include known polyamine, polyaminoamide, and quaternary
polyammonium types of polymers, such as:
[0066] (1) Homopolymers and copolymers derived from acrylic or
methacrylic esters or amides. The copolymers can contain one or
more units derived from acrylamides, methacrylamides, diacetone
acrylamides, acrylamides and methacrylamides, acrylic or
methacrylic acids or their esters, vinyllactams such as vinyl
pyrrolidone or vinyl caprolactam, and vinyl esters. Specific
examples include: copolymers of acrylamide and dimethyl amino ethyl
methacrylate quaternized with dimethyl sulfate or with an alkyl
halide; copolymers of acrylamide and methacryloyl oxyethyl
trimethyl ammonium chloride; the copolymer of acrylamide and
methacryloyl oxyethyl trimethyl ammonium methosulfate; copolymers
of vinyl pyrrolidone/dialkylaminoalkyl acrylate or methacrylate,
optionally quaternized, such as the products sold under the name
GAFQUAT by Ashland; the dimethyl amino ethyl methacrylate/vinyl
caprolactam/vinyl pyrrolidone terpolymers, such as the product sold
under the name GAFFIX VC 713 by Ashland; the vinyl
pyrrolidone/methacrylamidopropyl dimethylamine copolymer, marketed
under the name STYLEZE CC 10 by Ashland; the vinyl
pyrrolidone/quaternized dimethyl amino propyl methacrylamide
copolymers such as the product sold under the name GAFQUAT HS 100
by Ashland; and the vinyl pyrrolidone/dimethylaminopropyl
methacrylamide/C.sub.9-C.sub.24 alkyldimethylaminopropyl
methacrylic acid quaternized terpolymers described in U.S. Pat. No.
6,207,778 and marketed under the name STYLEZE-W20 by Ashland.
[0067] (2) Derivatives of cellulose ethers containing quaternary
ammonium groups, such as hydroxy ethyl cellulose quaternary
ammonium that has reacted with an epoxide substituted by a
trimethyl ammonium group.
[0068] (3) Derivatives of cationic cellulose such as cellulose
copolymers or derivatives of cellulose grafted with a hydrosoluble
quaternary ammonium monomer, as described in U.S. Pat. No.
4,131,576, such as the hydroxy alkyl cellulose, and the
hydroxymethyl-, hydroxyethyl- or hydroxypropyl-cellulose grafted
with a salt of methacryloyl ethyl trimethyl ammonium,
methacrylamidopropyl trimethyl ammonium, or dimethyl diallyl
ammonium.
[0069] (4) Cationic polysaccharides such as described in U.S. Pat.
Nos. 3,589,578 and 4,031,307, guar gums containing cationic
trialkyl ammonium groups, guar gums modified by a salt, e.g.,
chloride of 2,3-epoxy propyl trimethyl ammonium, Cassia, Chitosan,
Chitin and the like.
[0070] (5) Polymers composed of piperazinyl units and alkylene or
hydroxy alkylene divalent radicals with straight or branched
chains, possibly interrupted by atoms of oxygen, sulfur, nitrogen,
or by aromatic or heterocyclic cycles, as well as the products of
the oxidation and/or quaternization of such polymers.
[0071] (6) Water-soluble polyamino amides prepared by
polycondensation of an acid compound with a polyamine. These
polyamino amides may be reticulated.
[0072] (7) Derivatives of polyamino amides resulting from the
condensation of polyalcoylene polyamines with polycarboxylic acids
followed by alcoylation by bi-functional agents.
[0073] (8) Polymers obtained by reaction of a polyalkylene
polyamine containing two primary amine groups and at least one
secondary amine group with a dioxycarboxylic acid chosen from among
diglycolic acid and saturated dicarboxylic aliphatic acids having 3
to 8 atoms of carbon. Such polymers are described in U.S. Pat. Nos.
3,227,615 and 2,961,347.
[0074] (9) The cyclopolymers of alkyl dialyl amine or dialkyl
diallyl ammonium such as the homopolymer of dimethyl diallyl
ammonium chloride and copolymers of diallyl dimethyl ammonium
chloride and acrylamide.
[0075] (10) Quaternary diammonium polymers such as hexadimethrine
chloride. Polymers of this type are described particularly in U.S.
Pat. Nos. 2,273,780, 2,375,853, 2,388,614, 2,454,547, 3,206,462,
2,261,002, 2,271,378, 3,874,870, 4,001,432, 3,929,990, 3,966,904,
4,005,193, 4,025,617, 4,025,627, 4,025,653, 4,026,945, and
4,027,020.
[0076] (11) Quaternary polyammonium polymers, including, for
example, Mirapol.RTM. A 15, Mirapol.RTM. AD1, Mirapol.RTM. AZ1, and
Mirapol.RTM. 175 products sold by Miranol.
[0077] (12) The quaternary polymers of vinyl pyrrolidone and vinyl
imidazole such as the products sold under the names Luviquat.RTM.
FC 905, FC550, and FC 370 by BASF.
[0078] (13) Quaternary polyamines.
[0079] (14) Reticulated polymers known in the art.
[0080] Suitable Polyquaternium type of cationic polymers for the
present application would include but not limited to Polyquaternium
4, Polyquaternium 5, Polyquaternium 6, Polyquaternium 7,
Polyquaternium 10, Polyquaternium 11, Polyquaternium 15,
Polyquaternium 16, Polyquaternium 22, Polyquaternium 28,
Polyquaternium 32, Polyquaternium 37, Polyquaternium 39,
Polyquaternium 46, Polyquaternium 47, Polyquaternium 53,
Polyquaternium 55, Polyquaternium 67, and/or Polyquaternium 87.
Other polymers known by their CTFA category name "Quaternium" are
suitable for the present application would include but not limited
to Quaternium-8, Quaternium-14, Quaternium-15, Quaternium-18,
Quaternium-22, Quaternium-24, Quaternium-26, Quaternium-27,
Quaternium-30, Quaternium-33, Quaternium-53, Quaternium-60,
Quaternium-61, Quaternium-72, Quaternium-78, Quaternium-80,
Quaternium-81, Quaternium-81, Quaternium-82, Quaternium-83 and
Quaternium-84.
[0081] Other cationic polymers that may be used within the context
of the invention are cationic proteins or hydrolyzed cationic
proteins, polyalkyleneimines such as polyethyleneimines, polymers
containing vinyl pyridine or vinyl pyridinium units, condensates of
polyamines and epichlorhydrins, quaternary polyurethanes, and
derivatives of chitin.
[0082] The anionic polymers that can be employed along with a
conditioning and/or styling copolymer of this application would
include but are not limited to carboxylic acids such as acrylic
acid (AA), methacrylic acid (MAA),
2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid (AMPS), crotonic acid,
styrene sulfonic acid, itconic acid, and the like.
[0083] Preferred anionic homo and copolymer of the present
application would include but are not limited to (a) Homo- or
copolymers of acrylic or methacrylic acid or salts thereof; (b)
Copolymers of acrylic or methacrylic acids with a mono-ethylenic
monomer such as ethylene, styrene, vinyl esters, acrylic acid
esters or methacrylic acid esters. These copolymers can be grafted
onto a polyalkylene glycol and optionally crosslinked; (c)
Copolymers comprising: (i) one or more maleic, fumaric or itaconic
acids or anhydrides and (ii) at least one monomer selected from
vinyl esters, vinyl ethers, vinyl halides, phenylvinyl derivatives,
acrylic acid and its esters, the anhydride functions of these
copolymers optionally being monoesterified or monoamidated; (d)
Copolymers comprising: (i) one or more maleic, citraconic or
itaconic anhydrides and (ii) one or more monomers selected from
allylic or methallylic esters optionally containing one or more
acrylamide, methacrylamide, alpha-olefin, acrylic or methacrylic
ester, acrylic or methacrylic acid or vinylpyrrolidone groups in
their chain, the anhydride functions of these copolymers optionally
being monoesterified or monoamidated; (e) Polyacrylamides
containing carboxylate groups; (f) The polymers comprising
sulphonic groups are polymers containing vinylsulphonic,
styrenesulphonic, naphthalenesulphonic or acrylamidoalkylsulphonic
units.
[0084] Other preferred anionic copolymers are selected from the
group consisting of but not limited to vinyl acetate/crotonic acid
copolymer, vinyl acetate/acrylate copolymer, vinyl acetate/vinyl
neodecanoate/crotonic acid copolymer, sodium acrylate/vinyl alcohol
copolymer, sodium polystyrene sulphate, ethyl acrylate/N-tert-Butyl
acrylamide/acrylic acid copolymer, vinylpyrrolidone/vinyl
acetate/itaconic acid copolymer, acrylic acid/acrylamide copolymer
and sodium salts thereof, homo and copolymers of acrylic acid
and/or methacrylic acid and/or salts thereof,
acrylate/hydroxyacrylate copolymer, octylacrylamide/acrylate
copolymer, octylacrylamide/methacrylic ester copolymer, butyl
acrylate/N-vinylpyrrolidone copolymer, methyl vinyl ether/maleic
acid copolymer and the ethyl, isopropyl and butyl esters,
silicone/acrylic acid or methacrylic acid copolymer, polyurethanes
based on diisocyanates with terminal acid groups.
[0085] The amphoteric polymers cab be selected from the following
polymers: (1) Polymers resulting from the copolymerization of a
monomer derived from a vinyl compound bearing a carboxylic group
such as, more particularly, acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, maleic
acid, alpha-chloroacrylic acid, and a basic monomer derived from a
substituted vinyl compound containing at least one basic atom, such
as, more particularly, dialkylaminoalkyl methacrylate and acrylate,
dialkylaminoalkylmethacrylamides and acrylamides. (2) Polymers
containing units derived from: a) at least one monomer selected
from acrylamides and methacrylamides substituted on the nitrogen
with an alkyl radical, b) at least one acidic comonomer containing
one or more reactive carboxylic groups, and c) at least one basic
comonomer such as esters containing primary, secondary, tertiary
and quaternary amine substituents of acrylic and methacrylic acids
and the product of quaternization of dimethylaminoethyl
methacrylate with dimethyl or diethyl sulphate.
[0086] Further, the exemplary amphoteric polymer can selected from
the group
N-Octylacrylamid/Acrylsaure/tertiary-Butylaminoethylmethacrylat-Cop-
olymer,
N-Octylacrylamld/Methacrylsaure/tertiary-butylaminoethylmethacryla-
t-Copolymer group and copolymers of Methacryloylbetain/alkyl
methacrylates, copolymers of monomers having carboxyl- and/or
sulfonic groups, particularly acrylic acid, methacrylic acid,
itaconic acid, and monomers containing amino groups, especially
Monoalkylaminoalkylacrylate, dialkylaminoalkyl,
Monoalkylaminoalkylmethacrylate, dialkylaminoalkyl,
Mono-alkylaminoalkylacrylamide, dialkylamino-alkylacrylamides,
Mono-alkylaminoalkylmethacrylamide,
Dialkylaminoalkylmethacrylamide, and copolymers of N-octyl
acrylamide, methyl methacrylate, hydroxypropyl methacrylate.
[0087] Nonionic polymers having at least one fatty chain and at
least one hydrophilic unit, are preferably chosen from: (1)
celluloses modified with groups containing at least one fatty chain
such as, for example: hydroxyethyl celluloses modified with groups
containing at least one fatty chain such as alkyl, arylalkyl or
alkylaryl groups or mixtures thereof, and in which the alkyl groups
are preferably C.sub.8-C.sub.22; (2) hydroxypropyl guars modified
with groups containing at least one fatty chain; (3) polyether
urethanes containing at least one fatty chain such as a
C.sub.8-C.sub.30 alkyl or alkenyl group; (4) copolymers of
C.sub.1-C.sub.6 alkyl methacrylates or acrylates and of amphiphilic
monomers comprising at least one fatty chain; (5) copolymers of
hydrophilic methacrylates or acrylates and of hydrophobic monomers
comprising at least one fatty chain; (6) polyurethane polyethers
comprising in their chain both hydrophilic blocks usually of
polyoxyethylenated nature and hydrophobic blocks which may be
aliphatic sequences alone and/or cycloaliphatic and/or aromatic
sequences; and (7) polymers with an aminoplast ether backbone
containing at least one fatty chain. Other relevant nonionic
polymers which are disclosed in US Patent Application No's.
20070134191 and 20110165108 may be employed for the purposes of the
present application.
[0088] The polymerization of the polymer useful herein is carried
out by any appropriate method known in the prior art by a person
skilled in the art. Particularly, the polymerization is carried out
by any one of the methods disclosed in "Principles of
Polymerization" 4.sup.th edition, 2004, Wiley by George Odian and
is referred and disclosed herein in its entirety. Further, the
polymerization of terpolymer of the present application may contain
a suitable catalyst or initiators such as amines, bases, organic
acids and/or photo-initiators. However, the preferred
polymerization technique employed to prepare a conditioning polymer
would include but not limited to radical polymerization, emulsion
polymerization, ionic chain polymerization, bulk polymerization,
suspension polymerization or precipitation polymerization.
[0089] It is contemplated to employ at least one personal care
active ingredient for preparing a personal care composition of the
present application comprising a conditioner terpolymer and at
least one cosmetically acceptable agent, wherein, the preferred
personal care active ingredient of the present application would
include but not limited to Carnitine, Betain Aminoacids as i.e.
valine, glycine, arginine, allantoin, tocopherol nicotinate,
niacinamide, retinyl propionate, palmitoyl-gly-his-lys,
phytosterol, polyphenolic compounds, flavonoids, flavones,
flavonols, isoflavone, dexpanthenol, panthenol, bisabolol,
farnesol, phytantriol, salicylic acid, zinc/sodium pyridinethione
salts, piroctone olamine, selenium disulfide, tetrahydrocurcumin,
glucosamine, N-acteyl glucosamine, vitamin B3, retinoids, peptides,
phytosterol, dialkanoyl hydroxyproline, hexamidine, salicylic acid,
N-acyl amino acids, escolols, sunscreen actives, UV-A/UV-B
protecting agent, UV filters, water soluble vitamins, oil soluble
vitamins, hesperedin, mustard seed extract, glycyrrhizic acid,
glycyrrhetinic acid, carnosine, Butylated Hydroxytoluene (BHT) and
Butylated Hydroxyanisole (BHA), ergothioneine, vanillin, vanillin
derivatives, diethylhexyl syrinylidene malonate, melanostatine,
sterol esters, fatty acids, poly-unsaturated fatty acids,
anti-fungal agents, thiol compounds, N-acetyl cysteine,
glutathione, thioglycolate, .beta.-carotene, ubiquinone, amino
acids, idebenone, dehydroacetic acid, Licohalcone A, creatine,
creatinine, feverfew extract, yeast extract, beta glucans, alpha
glucans, alone or in combination.
[0090] The preferred polyphenolic compounds include flavonoids such
as those broadly disclosed in U.S. Pat. No. 5,686,082. Exemplary
flavonoids include at least one flavones, flavanols, isoflavones,
coumarins, chromones, dicoumarols, chromanones, chromanols, and/or
isomers (e.g., cis/trans isomers). Suitable flavones and
isoflavones include unsubstituted flavone, unsubstituted
isoflavone, daidzein (7,4'-dihydroxy isoflavone), genistein
(5,7,4'-trihydroxy isoflavone), equol (7,4'-isoflavandiol),
5,7-dihydroxy-4'-methoxy isoflavone, 7,2'-dihydroxy flavone,
3',4'-dihydroxy naphthoflavone, 7,8-benzoflavone, 4'-hydroxy
flavone, 5,6-benzoflavone, soy isoflavones (e.g., isoflavones
extracted from soy) and other plant sources of such mixtures (e.g.,
red clover), and mixtures thereof. Other suitable flavonoids
include hesperitin, hesperidin, quercetin and mixtures thereof.
Other polyphenolic compounds include tetrahydrocurcuminoids.
Tetrahydrocurcuminoids include tetrahydrocurcumin,
tetrahydrodemethoxycurcumin, and tetrahydrobismethoxycurcumin.
[0091] The effective amount of personal care active ingredient
employed in the present application is in the range of from about
0.01 wt. % to about 10 wt. %, preferably about 0.1 wt. % to about
5.0 wt. % and more preferably in the range of 0.05 wt. % to about
3.0 wt. % of the total composition.
[0092] The personal care composition of present application is
capable of fixing or treating hair and features conditioning and/or
styling properties such as detangling, wet combability, wet feel,
dry combability, dry feel, sheen, static flyaway control,
hydrophobicity, surface smoothening, improved deposition, no
build-up, color protection, and/or curl retention. Further, the
personal care composition comprising a terpolymer of present
application is able to provide "virgin feel condition" to the hair
after multiple washes.
[0093] The personal care composition of present application can be
an appropriate product selected from the group consisting of
hair-care products, shampoos, hair conditioners, 2 in 1 shampoos,
leave in and rinse off conditioners, hair treatments including
intensive treatments, styling and treating hair compositions, hair
perming products, hair straightners, hair relaxants, hair sprays
and lacquers, permanent hair dyeing systems, hair styling mousses,
hair gels, semi-permanent hair dyeing systems, temporary hair
dyeing systems, hair bleaching agents, permanent hair wave systems,
hair setting formulations, non-coloring hair preparations,
hair-frizz-control gels, hair leave-in conditioners, hair pomades,
hair de-tangling products, hair fixatives, hair conditioning mists,
hair care pump sprays and other non-aerosol sprays, skin-care
products, hair cuticle coats, skin care moisturizing mists, skin
wipes, pore skin wipes, pore cleaners, blemish reducers, skin
exfoliators, skin desquamation enhancers, skin towelettes, skin
protection ointments, skin powders, skin pads, paste masks and
muds, face masks, facial cleansing products, anti-acne
preparations, bath products, shower products, liquid soaps, bar
soaps, body oils, body lotions, body gels, body and hand
preparations, face and body washes, bath salts, bath and body
milks, foam baths, synthetic and non-synthetic soap bars, hand
liquids, shaving lotions, shaving and aftershave preparations,
pre-shaves and pre-electric shaves, nail varnishes, nail polish,
nail polish remover, nail creams and lotions, cuticle softeners,
nail conditioners, eye shadows, mascaras, eye liners, eye shadows,
blushes, makeup, eye shadow sticks, baby lotions, baby baths and
shampoos, baby conditioners, fragrances and/or odoriferous
ingredients consisting preparations, dentifrices, deodorizing and
antiperspirant preparations, decorative preparations, light
protection formulations, treatment creams, lipsticks, dry and moist
make-up, rouge, powders, depilatory agents, sun care products,
compositions comprising UV blockers or UV protectors, anti-aging
products, foundations, face powders, moisturizing preparations,
tanning preparations, nose strips, make-up removers, cold creams,
mousses, shower gels, personal care rinse-off products, gels,
scrubbing cleansers, astringents, lip balms, lip glosses, anhydrous
creams and lotions, oil/water, water/oil, multiple and macro and
micro emulsions, water-resistant creams and lotions, mouth-washes,
massage oils, toothpastes, clear gels and sticks, ointment bases,
topical wound-healing products, aerosol talc, barrier sprays,
vitamin, herbal-extract preparations, and/or controlled-release
personal care products.
[0094] The personal care composition of present invention can be
formulated in several required forms according to their necessity,
and the non-limiting forms include emulsion, lotion, gel, vesicle
dispersion, paste, cream, solid stick, mousse, shampoo, spray,
balm, wipe, milk, foam, jellies, liquid, tonics, and/or enamel.
[0095] As used herein, the term "cosmetically acceptable excipient"
means any ingredient/compound or mixture of ingredients/compounds
or compositions that are typically employed to produce other
desirable effects in personal care compositions. The preferred
cosmetically acceptable excipients include but not limited to
preservatives, antioxidants, chelating agents, sunscreen agents,
proteins, amino acids, vitamins, dyes, hair coloring agents, plant
extracts, plant derivatives, plant tissue extracts, plant seed
extracts, plant oils, botanicals, botanical extracts, humectants,
fragrances, perfumes, oils, emollients, lubricants, butters,
penetrants, thickeners, viscosity modifiers, thickeners, polymers,
resins, hair fixatives, film formers, surfactants, detergents,
emulsifiers, opacifying agents, volatiles, propellants, liquid
vehicles, carriers, salts, pH adjusting agents, neutralizing
agents, buffers, hair conditioning agents, anti-static agents,
anti-frizz agents, anti-dandruff agents, hair waving agents, hair
straightening agents, relaxers, absorbents, fatty substances,
gelling agents, moisturizers, hydrophilic or lipophilic active
agent, preserving agents, fillers, dyestuffs, reducing agents,
cosmetic oils, perfumes, liquid vehicles, solvents, carriers,
silicones, and combinations thereof.
[0096] Suitable rheology modifiers and thickeners include synthetic
and semi-synthetic rheology modifiers. Exemplary synthetic rheology
modifiers include acrylic based polymers and copolymers. One class
of acrylic based rheology modifiers are the carboxyl functional
alkali-swellable and alkali-soluble thickeners (ASTs) produced by
the free-radical polymerization of acrylic acid alone or in
combination with other ethylenically unsaturated monomers. The
polymers can be synthesized by solvent/precipitation as well as
emulsion polymerization techniques. Exemplary synthetic rheology
modifiers of this class include homopolymers of acrylic acid or
methacrylic acid and copolymers polymerized from one or more
monomers of acrylic acid, substituted acrylic acid, and salts and
C.sub.1-C.sub.30 alkyl esters of acrylic acid and substituted
acrylic acid. As defined herein, the substituted acrylic acid
contains a substituent positioned on the alpha and/or beta carbon
atom of the molecule wherein the substituent is preferably and
independently selected from C.sub.1-4 alkyl, --CN, and --COOH.
Optionally, other ethylenically unsaturated monomers such as, for
example, styrene, vinyl acetate, ethylene, butadiene,
acrylonitrile, as well as mixtures thereof can be copolymerized
into the backbone. The foregoing polymers are optionally
crosslinked by a monomer that contains two or more moieties that
contain ethylenic unsaturation. In one aspect, the crosslinker is
selected from a polyalkenyl polyether of a polyhydric alcohol
containing at least two alkenyl ether groups per molecule. Other
Exemplary crosslinkers are selected from allyl ethers of sucrose
and allyl ethers of pentaerythritol, and mixtures thereof. These
polymers are more fully described in U.S. Pat. No. 5,087,445; U.S.
Pat. No. 4,509,949; and U.S. Pat. No. 2,798,053 herein incorporated
by reference in its entirety.
[0097] Commercially available Carbomers include Carbopol.RTM.
polymers 934, 940, 941, 956, 980 and 996 available from Lubrizol
Advanced Materials, Inc. In another embodiment the AST rheology
modifier is selected from a crosslinked copolymer polymerized from
a first monomer selected from one or more monomers of (meth)acrylic
acid, substituted acrylic acid, and salts of (meth)acrylic acid and
substituted acrylic acid and a second monomer selected from one or
more C.sub.1-C.sub.5 alkyl acrylate esters of (meth)acrylic acid.
These polymers are designated under the INCI name of Acrylates
Copolymer. Acrylates Copolymers are commercially available under
the trade names Aculyn.RTM. 33 from Rohm and Haas and Carbopol.RTM.
Aqua SF-1 from Lubrizol Advanced Materials, Inc. In a further
aspect the rheology modifier is selected from a crosslinked
copolymer polymerized from a first monomer selected from one or
more monomers of acrylic acid, substituted acrylic acid, salts of
acrylic acid and salts of substituted acrylic acid and a second
monomer selected from one or more C.sub.10-C.sub.30 alkyl acrylate
esters of acrylic acid or methacrylic acid. In one aspect, the
monomers can be polymerized in the presence of a steric stabilizer
such as disclosed in U.S. Pat. No. 5,288,814 which is herein
incorporated by reference. Some of the forgoing polymers are
designated under INCI nomenclature as Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl
Acrylate Crosspolymer and are commercially available under the
trade names Carbopol.RTM. 1342 and 1382, Carbopol.RTM. Ultrez 20
and 21, Carbopol.RTM. ETD 2020 and Pemulen.RTM. TR-1 and TR-2 from
Lubrizol Advanced Materials, Inc. Any vinyl or acrylic based
rheology modifiers are suitable.
[0098] Another class of synthetic rheology modifiers and thickeners
suitable for use in accordance with an embodiment of the present
invention includes hydrophobically modified ASTs commonly referred
to as hydrophobically modified alkali-swellable and alkali-soluble
emulsion (HASE) polymers. Typical HASE polymers are free radical
addition polymers polymerized from pH sensitive or hydrophilic
monomers (e.g., acrylic acid and/or methacrylic acid), hydrophobic
monomers (e.g., C.sub.1-C.sub.30 alkyl esters of acrylic acid
and/or methacrylic acid, acrylonitrile, styrene), an "associative
monomer", and an optional crosslinking monomer. The associative
monomer comprises an ethylenically unsaturated polymerizable end
group, a non-ionic hydrophilic midsection that is terminated by a
hydrophobic end group. The non-ionic hydrophilic midsection
comprises a polyoxyalkylene group, e.g., polyethylene oxide,
polypropylene oxide, or mixtures of polyethylene
oxide/polypropylene oxide segments. The terminal hydrophobic end
group is typically a C.sub.8-C.sub.40 aliphatic moiety. Exemplary
aliphatic moieties are selected from linear and branched alkyl
substituents, linear and branched alkenyl substituents, carbocyclic
substituents, aryl substituents, aralkyl substituents, arylalkyl
substituents, and alkylaryl substituents. In one aspect,
associative monomers can be prepared by the condensation (e.g.,
esterification or etherification) of a polyethoxylated and/or
polypropoxylated aliphatic alcohol (typically containing a branched
or unbranched C.sub.8-C.sub.40 aliphatic moiety) with an
ethylenically unsaturated monomer containing a carboxylic acid
group (e.g., acrylic acid, methacrylic acid), an unsaturated cyclic
anhydride monomer (e.g., maleic anhydride, itaconic anhydride,
citraconic anhydride), a monoethylenically unsaturated
monoisocyanate (e.g., .alpha.,.alpha.-dimethyl-m-isopropenyl benzyl
isocyanate) or an ethylenically unsaturated monomer containing a
hydroxyl group (e.g., vinyl alcohol, allyl alcohol).
Polyethoxylated and/or polypropoxylated aliphatic alcohols are
ethylene oxide and/or propylene oxide adducts of a monoalcohol
containing the C.sub.8-C.sub.40 aliphatic moiety. Non-limiting
examples of alcohols containing a C.sub.8-C.sub.40 aliphatic moiety
are capryl alcohol, iso-octyl alcohol (2-ethyl hexanol), pelargonic
alcohol (1-nonanol), decyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, myristyl
alcohol, cetyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol (mixture of
C.sub.16-C.sub.18 monoalcohols), stearyl alcohol, isostearyl
alcohol, elaidyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, behenyl
alcohol, lignoceryl alcohol, ceryl alcohol, montanyl alcohol,
melissyl, lacceryl alcohol, geddyl alcohol, and C.sub.2-C.sub.20
alkyl substituted phenols (e.g., nonyl phenol), and the like.
[0099] Exemplary HASE polymers are disclosed in U.S. Pat. No.
3,657,175; U.S. Pat. No. 4,384,096; U.S. Pat. No. 4,464,524; U.S.
Pat. No. 4,801,671; and U.S. Pat. No. 5,292,843, which are herein
incorporated by reference. In addition, an extensive review of HASE
polymers is found in Gregory D. Shay, Chapter 25, "Alkali-Swellable
and Alkali-Soluble Thickener Technology A Review", Polymers in
Aqueous Media-Performance Through Association, Advances in
Chemistry Series 223, J. Edward Glass (ed.), ACS, pp. 457-494,
Division Polymeric Materials, Washington, D.C. (1989), the relevant
disclosures of which are incorporated herein by reference. The HASE
polymers are commercially available from Rohm & Haas under the
trade designations Aculyn.RTM. 22 (INCI Name: Acrylates/Steareth-20
Methacrylate Copolymer), Aculyn.RTM. 44 (INCI Name: PEG-150/Decyl
Alcohol/SMDI Copolymer), Aculyn 46.RTM. (INCI Name: PEG-150/Stearyl
Alcohol/SMDI Copolymer), and Aculyn.RTM. 88 (INCI Name:
Acrylates/Steareth-20 Methacrylate Crosspolymer).
[0100] Another class of synthetic and semi-synthetic rheology
modifiers and thickeners suitable for use in accordance with an
embodiment of the present invention includes cationically modified
acrylic polymers and copolymers and cationically modified cellulose
ethers. The acrylic polymers and copolymers and cellulose ethers
are cationically modified via quaternization. For the acrylic
polymers and copolymers, quaternization can occur by polymerizing a
quaternized monomer into the acrylic polymer backbone or by post
functionalizing the acrylic polymer with a quaternizing agent. An
exemplary quaternary acrylic polymer is designated under INCI
nomenclature as Polyquaternium-37 and is commercially available
under the trade names Synthalen CR21 and Synthalen CN, from 3V Inc.
The quaternized celluloses are prepared by post functionalizing the
desired cellulosic backbone (e.g., hydroxyethyl cellulose) with a
quaternizing agent such as a quaternary ammonium salt (e.g.,
diallyldimethyl ammonium chloride, trimethyl ammonium chloride
substituted epoxide). Exemplary quaternary cellulosic polymers are
designated under the INCI names Polyquaternium-4,
Polyquaternium-10, and Polyquaternium-67.
[0101] Other rheology modifiers suitable for use in the personal
care compositions of the invention are disclosed in U.S. Pat. No.
7,205,271 the disclosure of which is herein incorporated by
reference.
[0102] Suitable surfactants or surfactant systems for preparing a
personal care composition comprising a conditioning and/or styling
copolymer of the present application can be selected from anionic,
non-ionic, amphoteric, cationic and mixtures thereof. The
contemplated surfactants for use herein are as follows:
[0103] (A) Anionic Surfactants: Anionic surfactants are
particularly useful in accordance with certain embodiments of the
present application. Surfactants of the anionic type that may be
useful include:
[0104] (1) Sulfonates and Sulfates: Suitable anionic surfactants
include sulfonates and sulfates such as alkyl sulfates, alkylether
sulfates, alkyl sulfonates, alkylether sulfonates, alkylbenzene
sufonates, alkylbenzene ether sulfates, alkylsulfoacetates,
secondary alkane sulfonates, secondary alkylsulfates, alkyl
sulfosuccinates and the like. Further, examples of anionic
surfactants include water-soluble salts of higher fatty acid
monoglyceride monosulfates, such as the sodium salt of the
monosulfated monoglyceride of hydrogenated coconut oil fatty acids,
higher alkyl sulfates such as sodium lauryl sulfate, alkyl aryl
sulfonates such as sodium dodecyl benzene sulfonate, higher alkyl
sulfoacetates, higher fatty acid esters of 1,2-dihydroxy propane
sulfonate, and the substantially saturated higher aliphatic acyl
amides of lower aliphatic amino carboxylic acid compounds, such as
those having 12 to 16 carbons in the fatty acid, alkyl or acyl
radicals, and the like.
[0105] (2) Phosphates and Phosphonates: Suitable anionic
surfactants also include phosphates such as alkyl phosphates,
alkylether phosphates, aralkylphosphates, and aralkylether
phosphates. Examples include a mixture of mono-, di- and
tri-(alkyltetraglycolether)-o-phosphoric acid esters generally
referred to as trilaureth-4-phosphate commercially available under
the trade designation HOSTAPHAT 340KL from Clariant Corp., as well
as PPG-5 ceteth 10 phosphate available under the trade designation
CRODAPHOS SG from Croda Inc., Parsipanny, N.J.
[0106] (3) Amine Oxides: Suitable anionic surfactants also include
amine oxides. Examples of amine oxide surfactants include
lauryldimethylamine oxide, laurylamidopropyldimethylamine oxide,
and/or cetyl amine oxide.
[0107] (B) Amphoteric Surfactants: Surfactants of the amphoteric
type include surfactants having tertiary amine groups which may be
protonated as well as quaternary amine containing zwitterionic
surfactants. Those that may be useful include:
[0108] (1) Ammonium Carboxylate Amphoterics: Examples of such
amphoteric surfactants include, but are not limited to: certain
betaines such as cocobetaine and cocamidopropyl betaine;
monoacetates such as sodium lauroamphoacetate; diacetates such as
disodium lauroamphoacetate; amino- and alkylamino-propionates such
as lauraminopropionic acid.
[0109] (2) Ammonium Sulfonate Amphoterics: These classes of
amphoteric surfactants are often referred to as "sultaines" or
"sulfobetaines" for example, cocamidopropylhydroxysultaine.
[0110] (C) Nonionic Surfactants: Surfactants of the nonionic type
that may be particularly useful include:
[0111] (1) Polyethylene oxide extended sorbitan monoalkylates (i.e.
Polysorbates); (2) Polyalkoxylated alkanols; (3) Polyalkoxylated
alkylphenols include polyethoxylated octyl or nonyl phenols having
HLB values of at least about 14, which are commercially available
under the trade designations ICONOL and TRITON; (4) Polaxamers.
Surfactants based on block copolymers of ethylene oxide (EO) and
propylene oxide (PO) may also be effective. Both EO-PO-EO blocks
and PO-EO-PO blocks are expected to work well as long as the HLB is
at least about 14, and preferably at least about 16. Such
surfactants are commercially available under the trade designations
PLURONIC and TETRONIC from BASF; (5) Polyalkoxylated
esters--Polyalkoxylated glycols such as ethylene glycol, propylene
glycol, glycerol, and the like may be partially or completely
esterified, i.e. one or more alcohols may be esterified, with a
(C.sub.8 to C.sub.22) alkyl carboxylic acid. Such polyethoxylated
esters having an HLB of at least about 14, and preferably at least
about 16, may be suitable for use in compositions of the present
invention; (6) Alkyl Polyglucosides--This includes glucopon 425,
which has a (C.sub.8 to C.sub.16) alkyl chain length.
[0112] (D) Cationic Surfactants: Surfactants of the cationic type
that may be useful include but are not limited to, primary amines,
secondary amines, tertiary amines, quaternary amines,
alkanolamines, mono-alkyl alkanolamines, di-alkyl alkanolamines,
tri-alkyl alkanolamines, alkyl mono alkanolamines, alkyl
di-alkanolamines, alkylamines, mono-alkyl amines, di-alkyl amines,
tri-alkylamines, alkoxylated amines, alkyl and aryl amine
alkoxylates, methoxylated alkylamines, ethoxylated alkylamines,
alkoxylated alkanolamines, alkyl alkanolamines, alkoxylated
ethylene diamine derivatives, alkyl/aryl/arylalkyl amine oxides.
Preferred cationic surfactants of the present invention include,
but are not limited to, (a) alkyl alkanolamines; and (b) alkyl
tertiary amines. Additional information on useful cationic
surfactants for the purpose of present invention is set forth in
McCutcheon's Detergents and Emulsifiers, North American Ed., 1982
and Kirk-Othmer, Encyclopedia of Chemical Technology, 3.sup.rd Ed.,
Vol. 22, pp. 346-387, the contents of which are incorporated herein
by reference.
[0113] Suitable emulsifiers include the following classes of ethers
and esters: ethers of polyglycols and of fatty alcohols, esters of
polyglycols and of fatty acids, ethers of polyglycols and of fatty
alcohols which are glycosylated, esters of polyglycols and of fatty
acids which are glycosylated, ethers of C.sub.12-30 alcohols and of
glycerol or of polyglycerol, esters of C.sub.2-30 fatty acids and
of glycerol or of polyglycerol, ethers of oxyalkylene-modified
C.sub.12-30 alcohols and of glycerol or polyglycerol, ethers of
C.sub.2-30fatty alcohols comprising and of sucrose or of glucose,
esters of sucrose and of C.sub.12-30 fatty acids, esters of
pentaerythritol and of C.sub.12-30 fatty acids, esters of sorbitol
and/or of sorbitan and of C.sub.12-30 fatty acids, ethers of
sorbitol and/or of sorbitan and of alkoxylated sorbitan, ethers of
polyglycols and of cholesterol, esters of C.sub.12-30 fatty acids
and of alkoxylated ethers of sorbitol and/or sorbitan, and
combinations thereof. Linear or branched type silicone emulsifiers
may also be used. Particularly useful polyether modified silicones
include KF-6011, KF-6012, KF-6013, KF-6015, KF-6015, KF-6017,
KF-6043, KF-6028, and KF-6038 from Shin-Etsu. Also particularly
useful are the polyglycerolated linear or branched siloxane
emulsifiers including KF-6100, KF-6104, and KF-6105 from Shin-Etsu.
Emulsifiers also include emulsifying silicone elastomers. Suitable
emulsifying silicone elastomers may include at least one polyalkyl
ether or polyglycerolated unit.
[0114] The personal care composition of present application can be
preserved by adding minor quantity of preservatives to the
compositions. Such preservatives can be selected from, but are not
limited to triazoles, imidazoles, naphthalene derivatives,
benzimidazoles, morphline derivatives, dithiocarbamates,
benzisothiazoles, benzamides, boron compounds, formaldehyde donors,
isothiazolones, thiocyanates, quaternary ammonium compounds, iodine
derivates, phenol derivatives, micobicides, pyridines,
dialkylthiocarbamates, nitriles, parabens, alkyl parabens and salts
thereof.
[0115] Suitable antioxidants may be added to facilitate the
enhanced shelf-life of the personal care composition. Exemplary
antioxidants that can be used include vitamins such as vitamin E,
vitamin E acetate, vitamin C, vitamin A, and vitamin D, and
derivatives thereof. Additional exemplary antioxidants include but
are not limited to propyl, octyl and dodecyl esters of gallic acid,
butylated hydroxyanisole (BHA), butylated hydroxytoluene (BHT), and
nordihydroguaiaretic acid. In general, the required amount of
antioxidant for the present composition is in the range of about
0.2 wt. % to about 2 wt. %, and can be provided in an amount of
about 0.5 wt. % to about 1.5 wt. %, based on the total weight of
the composition.
[0116] The preferred fatty substance based excipient for the
present application include fatty alcohols, natural and synthetic
waxes, ceramides, mineral oils, vegetable oils, animal oils,
synthetic oils. The other preferred fatty substance are
isododecane, hydrogenated polyisobutene, squalane, isononyl
isononanoate, cyclotetra- and -pentadimethicones,
phenyltrimethicone, ethylene homopolymers, ethoxylated fats and
oils, fluoroalkanes, seracite, shea butter, arachidyl propionate
alone or in combination. For the definition of waxes, mention may
be made, for example, of P. D. Dorgan, Drug and Cosmetic Industry,
December 1983, pp. 30-33.
[0117] The preferred waxes of the present application would include
microcrystalline waxes, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, esparto wax,
paraffin wax, ozokerite. It is also considered to use plant waxes
such as olive tree wax, rice wax, fruit waxes, hydrogenated jojoba
wax or the absolute waxes of flowers such as the essential wax of
blackcurrant flower sold by the company Bertin (France), animal
waxes such as beeswaxes, or modified beeswaxes; other waxes or waxy
starting materials which can be used according to this application
are, in particular, marine waxes and polyethylene waxes or
polyolefins.
[0118] The animal or plant oils are preferably chosen from
sunflower oil, corn oil, soybean oil, avocado oil, jojoba oil,
marrow oil, Argan oil, grapeseed oil, sesame oil, hazelnut oil,
fish oils, glyceryl tricaprocaprylate, or plant or animal oils of
formula R.sub.1COOR.sub.2 in which R.sub.1 represents a higher
fatty acid residue containing from 7 to 29 carbon atoms and R.sub.2
represents a linear or branched hydrocarbon-based chain containing
from 3 to 30 carbon atoms, particularly alkyl or alkenyl, for
example purcellin oil or liquid jojoba wax. Further, it is also
possible to use natural or synthetic essential oils such as, for
example, eucalyptus oil, lavandin oil, lavender oil, vetiver oil,
Litsea cubeba oil, lemon oil, sandalwood oil, rosemary oil,
camomile oil, savory oil, nutmeg oil, cinnamon oil, hyssop oil,
caraway oil, orange oil, geraniol oil, cade oil, almond oil, argan
oil, avocado oil, olive oil, sun flower oil, cedar oil, wheat germ
oil and bergamot oil.
[0119] The compounds of ceramide type are natural or synthetic
ceramides and/or glycoceramides and/or pseudoceramides and/or
neoceramides. The ceramide based type of compounds are described in
detail in various patent prior arts, for example, DE4424530, DE
4424533, DE4402929, DE4420736, WO95/23807, WO94/07844,
EP-A-0646572, WO 95/16665, FR-2673179, EP-A-0227994, WO94/07844,
WO94/24097 and WO94/10131, the teachings of which are included
herein by way of reference in its entirety.
[0120] Moisturizers employed in the present invention would include
glycols, glycerols, propylene glycol, diethylene glycol monoethyl
ether, sorbitol, sodium salt of pyroglutamic acid, glycerol,
glycerol derivatives, glycerin, trehalose, sorbitol, maltitol,
dipropylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, sodium hyaluronate, and
the like.
[0121] Further, it is known that moisturizers that bind well with
water, thereby retaining it on the hair surface is called
humectants. Examples of humectants which can be incorporated into a
product of the present application are glycerine, propylene glycol,
polypropylene glycol, polyethylene glycol, lactic acid, sodium
lactate, pyrrolidone carboxylic acid, urea, phospholipids,
collagen, elastin, ceramides, lecithin sorbitol, PEG-4, and
mixtures thereof. Additional suitable moisturizers are polymeric
moisturizers that belong to water soluble and/or water swellable in
nature. Polysaccharides such as hyaluronic acid, chitosan can also
be employed along with moisturizers of the present application as
binder to enhance their property.
[0122] The preferred solvent of the present application may consist
of water, a cosmetically acceptable solvent, or a blend of water
and a cosmetically acceptable solvent, such as a lower alcohol
composed of C.sub.1 to C.sub.4, such as ethanol, isopropanol,
t-butanol, n-butanol, alkylene glycols such as propylene glycol,
and glycol ethers. However, the compositions of the invention can
be anhydrous. The most preferred solvents of the present
application would include water, ethanol and/or iso-propanol.
[0123] It is contemplated to employ other suitable solvents for
preparing products of the present application would include but not
limited to linear and branched C.sub.1-C.sub.6 alcohols, such as
ethanol, propanol, isopropanol, butanol, hexanol, and mixtures
thereof; aromatic alcohols, such as benzyl alcohol, cycloaliphatic
alcohols, such as cyclohexanol, and the like; saturated
C.sub.12-C.sub.30 fatty alcohol, such as lauryl alcohol, myristyl
alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, and the
like. Non-limiting examples of polyols include polyhydroxy
alcohols, such as glycerin, propylene glycol, butylene glycol,
hexylene glycol, C.sub.2-C.sub.4 alkoxylated alcohols and
C.sub.2-C.sub.4 alkoxylated polyols, such as ethoxylated,
propoxylated, and butoxylated ethers of alcohols, diols, and
polyols having about 2 to about 30 carbon atoms and 1 to about 40
alkoxy units, polypropylene glycol, polybutylene glycol, and the
like. Non-limiting examples of non-aqueous auxiliary solvents
include silicones, and silicone derivatives, such as
cyclomethicone, and the like, aliphatic solvents such as
cyclohexane and heptane, ketones such as acetone and methyl ethyl
ketone, and mixtures thereof; ethers such as diethyl ether,
dimethoxymethane, and mixtures thereof, natural and synthetic oils
and waxes, such as vegetable oils, plant oils, animal oils,
essential oils, mineral oils, C.sub.7-C.sub.40 isoparaffins, alkyl
carboxylic esters, such as ethyl acetate, amyl acetate, ethyl
lactate, and the like, jojoba oil, shark liver oil, and the
like.
[0124] The preferred neutralizing agents that can be included in
the product of the present application to neutralize components
such as e.g. an emulsifier or a foam builder/stabilizer include but
are not limited to alkali hydroxides such as a sodium and potassium
hydroxide; organic bases such as methylethylamine (MEA), ammonia,
aminoalcohols, lithium hydroxide, diethanolamine (DEA);
triethanolamine (TEA), aminomethyl propanol, and mixtures thereof;
amino acids such as arginine and lysine and any combination of any
foregoing. The neutralizing agent can be present in an amount of
about 0.01 wt. % to about 8 wt. %, preferably, 1 wt. % to about 5
wt. %.
[0125] Other preferred pH adjusting agents would include alkaline
pH adjusting agents include alkali metal hydroxides, such as sodium
hydroxide, and potassium hydroxide; ammonium hydroxide; organic
bases, such as triethanolamine, diisopropylamine, dodecylamine,
diisopropanolamine, aminomethyl propanol, cocamine, oleamine,
morpholine, triamylamine, triethylamine, tromethamine
(2-amino-2-hydroxymethyl)-1,3-propanediol), and
tetrakis(hydroxypropyl)ethylenediamine; and alkali metal salts of
inorganic acids, such as sodium borate (borax), sodium phosphate,
sodium pyrophosphate, and the like, and mixtures thereof. Acidic pH
adjusting agents can be organic acids, including amino acids, and
inorganic mineral acids. Non-limiting examples of acidic pH
adjusting agents include acetic acid, citric acid, fumaric acid,
glutamic acid, glycolic acid, hydrochloric acid, lactic acid,
nitric acid, phosphoric acid, sodium bisulfate, sulfuric acid,
tartaric acid, and the like, and mixtures thereof.
[0126] Suitable buffering agents include but are not limited to
alkali or alkali earth carbonates, phosphates, bicarbonates,
citrates, borates, acetates, acid anhydrides, succinates and the
like, such as sodium phosphate, citrate, borate, acetate,
bicarbonate, and carbonate.
[0127] Examples of anti-dandruff agents that can be used are
cimbazole, octopirox and zinc pyrithione, salicylic acid, elemental
sulfur, selenium dioxide, and the azole antimycotics.
[0128] According to one important embodiment of the present
application, it is contemplated to employ natural plant extracts
showing hair conditioning, restructuring effects, growing effects,
can be used in the conditioners. Those are preferably the extracts
from almond, coconut, mango, peach, lemon, wheat, rosemary,
apricot, algae, grapefruit, sandalwood, lime orange, Acacia
concinna, Butea parviflora, Butea superb, Butea frondosa and/or
Aloe Vera. The extracts of these plants are obtained from seeds,
roots, stem, leaves, flowers, bark, fruits, and/or whole plant.
[0129] According to one important embodiment of the present
application, it is contemplated to employ at least one organic UV
filters which can filter out UV rays can be selected from
hydrosoluble or liposoluble filters, whether siliconated or
nonsiliconated, and mineral oxide particles, the surface of which
may be treated.
[0130] Hydrosoluble organic UV filters can be chosen from
para-amino benzoic acid and its salts, anthranilic acid and its
salts, salicylic acid and its salts, hydroxy cinnamic acid and its
salts, sulfonic derivatives of benzothiazoles, benzimidizoles,
benzoxazoles and their salts, sulfonic derivatives of benzophenone
and their salts, sulfonic derivatives of benzylidene camphor and
their salts, derivatives of benzylidene camphor substituted by a
quaternary amine and their salts, derivatives of
phthalydene-camphosulfonic acids and their salts, sulfonic
derivatives of benzotriazole, and mixtures thereof.
[0131] Hydrophilic polymers which have light-protective qualities
against UV rays can be used. These include polymers containing
benzylidene camphor and/or benzotriazole groups.
[0132] Suitable liposoluble organic UV filters would include but
are not limited to derivatives of para-aminobenzoic acid, such as
the esters or amides of para-aminobenzoic acid; derivatives of
salicylic acid; derivatives of benzophenone; derivatives of
dibenzoyl methane; derivatives of diphenyl acrylates; derivatives
of benzofurans; UV filter polymers containing one or more
silico-organic residues; esters of cinnamic acid; derivatives of
camphor; derivatives of trianilino-s-triazine; the ethylic ester
urocanic acid; benzotriazoles; derivatives of hydroxy phenyl
triazine; bis-resorcinol-dialkyl amino triazine; and mixtures
thereof.
[0133] The liposoluble (or lipophilic) organic UV filter according
to the invention can be chosen from octyl salicylate;
4-tert-butyl-4'-methoxy dibenzoyl methane; octocrylene; 4-methoxy
cinnamate; 2-ethylhexyl [2-ethylhexyl 4-methoxycinnamate]; and
2-(2H-benzotriazol-2-yl)-4-methyl-6-[2-methyl-3-[1,3,3,3-tetramethyl-1-[(-
trimethyl silyl)oxy]disiloxanyl]propynyl] phenol.
[0134] Other UV filters particularly preferred for use herein are
derivatives of benzophenones such as 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy
benzophenone-5-sulfonic acid, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy benzophenone,
derivatives of benzalmalonates such as poly dimethyl/methyl
(3(4-(2,2-bis-ethoxy carbonyl vinyl)-phenoxy)-propenyl) siloxane,
derivatives of benzylidene camphor such as b-b'camphosulfonic-[1-4
divinylbenzene] acid and derivatives of benzimidazole such as
2-phenyl-benzimidazol-5-sulfonic acid.
[0135] Water-insoluble UV filters also include various mineral
oxides. The mineral oxides can be selected from among titanium
oxides, zinc oxides, and cerium oxides. The mineral oxides can be
used in the form of ultrafine nanoparticles.
[0136] Preferred UV filters include Escalol HP-610
(dimethylpabamido propyl laurdimonium tosylate and propylene glycol
stearate) and Crodasorb HP (polyquaternium 59).
[0137] The coloring agents, colorants or dyes used herein include
natural foods colors and dyes suitable for food, drug and cosmetic
applications. These colorants are also known as FD & C, and
D&C dyes and lakes and are preferably water-soluble in nature.
A full recitation of all FD&C and D&C dyes and their
corresponding chemical structures may be found in the Kirk-Othmer
Encyclopedia of Chemical Technology, Volume 5, pages 857-884, which
text is accordingly incorporated herein by reference. These
coloring agents may be incorporated in amount up to about 3%, more
particularly up to about 2%, and in some cases less than about 1%
by weight of the personal care compositions.
[0138] In preparing personal care composition herein, it is
preferred to add suitable thickening agents wherever required to
provide a desirable consistency to the appropriate formulation.
Examples of useful thickening agents include carboxyvinyl polymers,
carrageenan, hydroxyethyl cellulose, hydrophobically modified
hydroxy-ethyl-cellulose, laponite and water soluble salts of
cellulose ethers such as sodium carboxymethylcellulose and sodium
carboxymethyl hydroxyethyl cellulose, copolymers of lactide and
glycolide monomers, carbomers. Natural gums such as gum karaya,
xanthan gum, gum arabic, Guars, HP Guars, and gum tragacanth can
also be used. Some thickening agents, however, except polymeric
polyether compounds, e.g., polyethylene or polypropylene oxide (MW
300 to 1,000,000), capped with alkyl or acyl groups containing 1 to
about 18 carbon atoms. Carbomers are commercially available from
Lubrizol as the Carbopol Series. Particularly preferred carbopols
include Carbopol 934, 940, 941, 956, 980, 981, 1342, 1382, 2984,
5984, Aqua, Ultrez, ETD polymers, Pemulen polymers, and mixtures
thereof. Thickening agents are usually present in an amount from
about 0.1% to about 25% by weight of the disinfectant/cleaning
concentrate composition. However, the preferred amount of
thickening agent for the present composition is the range of about
0.01-5.0% by weight, preferably about 0.05-2.0%.
[0139] The term "sequestering agent" or "chelating agent" as used
herein relates to a compound which is capable of bonding or
complexing a metal ion between two or more atoms of the compound,
thereby neutralizing or controlling harmful effects of such metal
ions. Wherein holding or bonding of a metal ion is through
combination of one or more different types of bonds including
coordination and/or ionic bonds. The suitable organic or inorganic
sequestering or chelating for the purposes of the present
application is selected from the group comprising polyols,
gluconates, sorbitals, mannitols, carbonates, hydroxamates,
catechols, .alpha.-amino carboxylates, alkanolamines, metal-ion
sequestrants, hydroxy-carboxylic acids, aminocarboxylic acids,
amino polycarboxylic acids, polyamines, polyphosphates, phosphonic
acids, crown ethers, amino acids, polycarboxylic acids,
cyclodextrin, phosphonates, polyacrylates or polymeric
polycarboxylates, condensed phosphates. Further, the information on
sequestering and chelating agents is disclosed in T. E. Furia, CRC
Handbook of Food Additives, 2.sup.nd Edition, pp. 271-294 (1972),
and M. S. Peterson and A. M. Johnson (Eds.), Encyclopedia of Food
Science, pp. 694-699 (1978) are incorporated herein by reference in
its entirety.
[0140] The pH of the composition can be controlled within any
desired range according to the type and purpose of the formulation.
In order to attain the desired pH range, various pH modifiers may
be employed in the present composition. Specific examples of basic
pH modifiers are ammonia; sodium, potassium, and lithium hydroxide;
sodium, potassium, and lithium meta silicates; monoethanolamine;
triethylamine; isopropanolamine; diethanolamine; and
triethanolamine. The suitable acidic pH modifying agents that can
be employed in the present application include, but are not limited
to, mineral acids, carboxylic acids and polymeric acids. Specific
examples for mineral acids are hydrochloric acid, nitric acid,
phosphoric acid, and sulfuric acid. Examples for appropriate
carboxylic acids are citric acid, glycolic acid, lactic acid,
maleic acid, malic acid, succinic acid, glutaric acid, benzoic
acid, malonic acid, salicylic acid, gluconic acid, and mixtures
thereof. Examples for suitable polymeric acids include
straight-chain poly(acrylic) acid and its copolymers (e.g.,
maleic-acrylic, sulfonic-acrylic, and styrene-acrylic copolymers),
cross-linked polyacrylic acids having a molecular weight of less
than about 250,000, poly(methacrylic) acid, and naturally occurring
polymeric acids such as carageenic acid, carboxymethyl cellulose,
and alginic acid.
[0141] The desired pH of the personal care composition is in the
range of from about 3 to about 13, and in some embodiment, it is
preferably between about 4 to about 8. The utility levels of the pH
modifying agent may be present in an effective amount required to
achieve the desired pH level.
[0142] A perfume or fragrance obtained from natural or synthetic
source can be employed in the present personal care composition.
The fragrance may be used along with a suitable solvent, diluents
or carrier. Fragrances may be added in any conventionally known
method, for example, admixing to a composition or blending with
other ingredients used to form a composition, in amounts which are
found to be useful to increase or impart the desired scent
characteristics to the disinfectant or cleaning compositions.
Fragrances for the present application can be one or more selected
from the following non-limiting group of compounds such as
essential oils, absolutes, resinoids, resins, concretes,
hydrocarbons, alcohols, aldehydes, ketones, ethers, acids, esters,
acetals, ketals, nitriles, including saturated and unsaturated
compounds and aliphatic, carbocyclic and heterocyclic
compounds.
[0143] According to one embodiment of the present application, the
conditioning and/or styling composition optionally comprises any
silicones which are known to a person skilled in the art, such
silicones may be present in the form of oils, waxes, resins, or
gums. Silicones for the present invention can be selected from
Encyclopedia of Polymer Science and Engineering, vol. 15, 2d ed.,
pp 204-308, John Wiley & Sons, Inc. (1989), is incorporated
herein by reference. Non-limiting examples of suitable silicone
conditioning agents, and optional suspending agents for the
silicone, are described in detail in U.S. Reissue Pat. No. 34584,
U.S. Pat. No. 5,104,646, and U.S. Pat. No. 5,106,609 and can be
readily referred for the purposes of the invention.
[0144] Suitable silicones for the present application are duly
disclosed in U.S. Pat. No. 2,826,551, U.S. Pat. No. 3,964,500, U.S.
Pat. No. 4,364,837, British Patent No. 849433, EP-A-0 582152, WO
93/23009, and Silicon Compounds, Petrarch Systems, Inc. (1984), all
of which are incorporated herein by reference
[0145] The suitable silicones of the present application would
include but are not limited to polyorganosiloxanes, polyalkyl
siloxanes, polyaryl siloxanes, polyalkyl aryl siloxanes, silicone
gums and resins, and polyorgano siloxanes modified by
organofunctional groups, and mixtures thereof. Suitable polyalkyl
siloxanes include polydimethyl siloxanes with terminal trimethyl
silyl groups or terminal dimethyl silanol groups (dimethiconol) and
polyalkyl (C.sub.1-C.sub.25) siloxanes. Suitable polyalkyl aryl
siloxanes include polydimethyl methyl phenyl siloxanes and
polydimethyl diphenyl siloxanes, linear or branched. The silicone
gums suitable for use herein include polydiorganosiloxanes
preferably having a number-average molecular weight between 200,000
and 1,000,000, used alone or mixed with a solvent. Examples include
polymethyl siloxane, polydimethyl siloxane/methyl vinyl siloxane
gums, polydimethyl siloxane/diphenyl siloxane, polydimethyl
siloxane/phenyl methyl siloxane and polydimethyl siloxane/diphenyl
siloxane/methyl vinyl siloxanes. Suitable silicone resins include
silicones with a dimethyl/trimethyl siloxane structure and resins
of the trimethyl siloxysilicate type. The organo-modified silicones
suitable for use in the invention include silicones such as those
previously defined and containing one or more organofunctional
groups attached by means of a hydrocarbon radical and grafted
siliconated polymers. Particularly preferred are amino functional
silicones. The silicones may be used in the form of emulsions,
nano-emulsions, or micro-emulsions.
[0146] Another embodiment of the present application provides a
method for treating or fixing damaged keratin substrate comprising
contacting said keratin substrate with an effective amount of
personal care composition comprising a conditioning and/or styling
terpolymer/tetrapolymer of (i) about 50 wt. % to 95 wt. % of
acrylamidopropyl trimethylammonium chloride (APTAC), a cationic
monomer; (ii) about 1 wt. % to 30 wt. % of an anionic monomer
selected from the group consisting of (a) acrylic acid (AA), (b)
acrylamido methylpropyl sulfonate (AMPS) or (c) sodium methyl allyl
sulfonate (SMAS); and (iii) about 0.1 wt. % to 20 wt. % of a
hydrophobic monomer selected from the group consisting of (a)
polyoxyethylene (PEG)-18-behenylether methacrylate (BEM) or (b)
stearyl acrylate (SA), and wherein, said terpolymer has a cationic
degree of substitution (Cat-DS) of greater than about 0.001 units,
and wherein the cationic charge density is in the range of about 1
meq/g to about 6 meq/g.
[0147] Yet another embodiment of the present application provides a
method for washing or caring damaged or undamaged keratin substrate
comprising applying an effective amount of composition comprising a
conditioning and/or styling terpolymer/tetrapolymer of (i) about 50
wt. % to 95 wt. % of acrylamidopropyl trimethylammonium chloride
(APTAC), a cationic monomer; (ii) about 1 wt. % to 30 wt. % of an
anionic monomer selected from the group consisting of (a) acrylic
acid (AA), (b) acrylamido methylpropyl sulfonate (AMPS) or (c)
sodium methyl allyl sulfonate (SMAS); and (iii) about 0.1 wt. % to
20 wt. % of a hydrophobic monomer selected from the group
consisting of (a) polyoxyethylene (PEG)-18-behenylether
methacrylate (BEM) or (b) stearyl acrylate (SA), and wherein, the
terpolymer has a cationic degree of substitution (Cat-DS) of
greater than about 0.001 units, and wherein the cationic charge
density is in the range of about 1 meq/g to about 6 meq/g.
[0148] According to one important embodiment of the is application,
there is provided a method of protecting dyed hair color from
fading or wash-out during exposure to air and/or shampooing which
comprising contacting/treating said dyed hair with an effective
amount of personal care composition of claim 1 comprising: (a) a
conditioning and/or styling terpolymer of (i) about 50 wt. % to 95
wt. % of acrylamidopropyl trimethylammonium chloride (APTAC); (ii)
about 1 wt. % to 30 wt. % of an anionic monomer selected from the
group consisting of (a) acrylic acid (AA), (b) acrylamido
methylpropyl sulfonate (AMPS) or (c) sodium methyl allyl sulfonate
(SMAS); and (iii) cabout 0.1 wt. % to 20 wt. % of a hydrophobic
monomer selected from the group consisting of (a) polyoxyethylene
(PEG)-18-behenylether methacrylate (BEM) or (b) stearyl acrylate
(SA); and wherein said terpolymer has a cationic degree of
substitution (Cat-DS) of greater than about 0.001 units, and
wherein the cationic charge density is in the range of about 1
meq/g to about 6 meq/g. The above disclosed method is capable of
protecting hair dyes that are disclosed in US 20050226838 and which
included herein in its entirety.
[0149] The effective amount of terpolymer or tetrapolymer required
for a personal care composition to treat, fix or wash a damaged
keratin substrate is in the range of from about 0.01 wt. % to about
5.0 wt. %, and preferably in the range of from about 0.2 wt. % to
about 3.0 wt. % of the total composition.
[0150] According to one embodiment of the present application, it
is contemplated to employ at least one terpolymer of present
application and at least one commercially available conditioning
polymer. Suitable commercially available conditioning polymers are
selected from the following non-limiting group of examples which
include polymeric quaternary ammonium salts such as, without being
limited thereto, polyquaternium-7, a polymeric quaternary ammonium
salt of acrylamide and dimethyl diallylammonium chloride monomers
(such as MACKERNIUM.TM.-007, McIntyre Group, Ltd.);
polyquaternium-10, a polymeric quaternary ammonium salt of
hydroxyethylcellulose reacted with a trimethylammonium substituted
epoxide (such as the UCARE.RTM. Polymers JR, LK, LR, SR series,
Amerchol and CELQUAT.RTM. SC series, Akzo Nobel);
polyquaternium-39, a polymeric quaternary ammonium salt of acrylic
acid, diallyl dimethylammonium chloride and acrylamide (such as the
MERQUAT.RTM. and MERQUAT.RTM. Plus polymers, Ondeo Nalco);
quaternized derivatives of natural gums, e.g., guar
hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride (such as the N-HANCE.RTM. and
Supercol.RTM. polymers, Ashland Inc.), and the like.
[0151] Further, certain aspects of the present invention are
illustrated in detail by way of the following examples. The
examples are given herein for illustration of the invention and are
not intended to be limiting thereof.
Example 1: Wet Combability
[0152] The combing measurement of the hair tresses treated with
conditioner was done on a texture analyzer (FIG. 1) without
manually detangling the hair. The energy needed to comb the tress
was listed as gf-mm. For every measurement, 3 bleached hair tresses
were used and the average was calculated. To measure durable
conditioning the tress was first treated with 0.2 g/g hair
conditioner, which is then rinsed off and the comb energy is
measured. After the measurement the hair is washed with
non-conditioning shampoo once, comb energy was measured then 3 and
5 times. No conditioner was applied in between.
[0153] From FIG. 2, it is demonstrated that chassis is provided
good initial conditioning properties, but it is also evident that
cationic surfactants do not provide long-lasting conditioning. The
Chassis consist of cationic surfactant and fatty alcohol. Adding 1%
homopolymer PolyAPTAC to chassis has provided excellent
long-lasting conditioning. It has outperformed commercial example
containing cationic polymers.
Example 2: Wet Combability after Multiple Washings
[0154] The Terpolymers provided even improved durability compared
to homopolymer/s. Also the initial wet comb energy values right
after the application was much lower. There was no significant
difference between the different types of terpolymers. From the
results (FIG. 3), it is apparent that the conditioning performance
of terpolymers after several washes with silicone-free shampoo is
even improved compared to cationic homopolymer (PolyAPTAC). The
conditioners were applied on damaged hair 0.2 g grams per gram of
bleached hair (1 hour bleached) and wet comb energies were measured
after 1, 3 and 5 times of washing with 0.1 grams per gram hair
shampoo (shampoo: 12/2 SLES/CAPB).
TABLE-US-00001 TABLE 1 Comparison of Wet Comb energy of copolymers
and terpolymers Persistency, wet Anionic Hydrophobic comb energy
APTAC monomer, Monomer, (no TAS) Mw 500,000 Da 5 wt % 1.5 wt %
Initial 5 Washes Chassis TAS/FA -- -- 1348 116,000 Homopolymer, --
-- 12,000 4000 PolyAPTAC Copolymer -- Stearyl acrylate 4500 3500
Copolymer -- BEM 2.5% 3900 2500 Copolymer SMAS 13,000 50,000
Terpolymer SMAS Stearyl Acrylate 8,500 41,000 Acrylic Stearyl
acrylate 4900 2500 Acid Terpolymer AMPS Stearyl acrylate 4000 2500
(MW.500,000 Da) Acrylic BEM 6000 2500 Acid AMPS BEM 6000 2500
[0155] Terpolymers can be applied to shampoo applications, as well.
FIG. 4 presents the wet comb energy after 1 and 3 shampooing.
Terpolymer has clearly outperformed commercial referencing sample
and shampoo containing cationic Guar, which is typically used
conditioning polymer in various shampoos. The wet combability test
results are provided in Table 1.
Example 3: Hydrophobicity Determination by Contact Angle
Measurement
[0156] Contact angle is the indication of the surface
hydrophobicity of hair. The immediate and long-lasting
hydrophobicity of the terpolymers were studied by measuring the
contact angle after several washes with a clarifying shampoo. The
method is as follows: (i) A portion of the hair tress was stretched
on a specially designed plate so that the fibers were suspended
together in space to form a "single" surface (ii) A droplet of
Deionized water was delivered from a syringe onto the fiber
surface. Droplet mass is .about.0.008 g, (iii) Images were
collected at intervals of 1 s or 10 s.
[0157] The higher the contact angle the more hydrophobic is the
surface. The undamaged virgin brown hair is naturally hydrophobic,
but all the chemical treatments such as bleaching reduce the
hydrophobicity of the hair. Contact angle of virgin hair is about
110 which is reduced to 85 by bleaching. Also the water droplet
applied to the hair surface is absorbed in 60 s. On virgin hair,
the droplet can stay several hours. The results demonstrates (FIG.
5) the influence of different (1 wt %) terpolymers supplied from a
conditioner on the contact angle. It is concluded that the
treatment with terpolymer containing conditioners were able to
retain the hydrophobicity of the damaged hair close to the level of
virgin hair. The hydrophobicity test results are provided in Table
2.
TABLE-US-00002 TABLE 2 Hydrophobicity Evaluation by contact angle
measurement hydrophobicity Contact APTAC Anionic Hydrophobic
initial contact angle Shampoo (0.2%) Mw 500,000 Da 5 wt. % 1.5 wt.
% angle (10 min) 1 wash/3 washes Chassis TAS/FA -- -- 86 76 0 0 --
Homopolymer -- -- 88 94 38 27 -- Copolymer -- Stearyl acrylate 101
-- 26 -- -- Copolymer -- BEM 2.5% -- -- -- -- 37,000/10,000
Copolymer SMAS -- -- -- -- -- 58,000/50,000 Terpolymer SMAS Stearyl
Acrylate -- -- -- -- 62,000/57,000 Terpolymer AMPS Stearyl acrylate
99 107 55 45 33,000/9,000 (MW.500,000 Da) Acrylic BEM 99 94 34 49
21,000/4500 Acid AMPS BEM 102 103 87 18 50,000/15,000
Example 4: Sensory Evaluation
[0158] A trained panel of experts has evaluated the sensory
properties of the treated hair tresses and the results were very
much correlating with measured values e.g. comb energy values.
Sensory properties are essential part of consumer acceptance. With
the help of the sensory evaluation the long-term properties after
multiple uses can be determined.
[0159] Terpolymers were used at 0.2 wt % active in conjunction with
12 wt % SLE.sub.2S, 2 wt % CAPB with water added to 100%. The
simple shampoo formula was then applied to the hair at 0.3 g/g
bleached Caucasian hair and washed and rinsed off. After drying at
RT, it was evaluated. Then the procedure was repeated 4 more times
and the samples were evaluated. The following test shampoos and
market reference shampoos were compared with terpolymers of the
present application for the sensory evaluation (Table 3).
TABLE-US-00003 TABLE 3 Test Shampoos used for sensory evaluation
Formulations Code Z304-16C Z298-16D Z290-16E Aqua -- q.s. q.s. q.s.
APTAC/AA/BEM A16522 1 -- -- APTAC/AMPS/SA A16530 -- 1 --
APTAC/AMPS/BEM A16541 -- 1 Sodium Laureth -- 12 12 12 ether
sulfate, solids % Cocamidopropyl -- 2 2 2 Betaine, % solids
Preservative -- 0.5 0.5 0.5 Sodium Chloride -- 2 2 2 Commercial
Shampoo Aqua, ALS, CAPB, Sodium Chloride, Nordic hair care pure
Niacinamide, sugarcane extract, volume Hydroxypropyl guar
hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride (Jaguar C162), Camellia Sinensis
Extract Thermo-active formula, no silicone, texturizing agent for
48 h lasting volume
TABLE-US-00004 TABLE 4 Sensory Evaluation Wet Stage Summary Garnier
fructis Z304-16C Z304-16D Z304-16E shampoo Washing cycles Parameter
Description 1 5 1 5 1 5 1 5 Combability Ease of 2.75 4.33 2.50 3.58
2.25 3.583 1.92 2.33 Difficult - detangling easy Combability Ease
of combing 2.83 4.33 2.25 3.67 2.08 3.333 1.75 2.00 Difficult -
down hair shaft easy
[0160] At wet state all the tested terpolymers in the shampoo
clearly outperformed commercial non-silicone containing shampoo and
efficacy got improved after several washes. At the dry-state after
multiple washes shampoos based on the terpolymers outperformed the
commercial example. The wet and dry stage sensory evaluations are
provided in Table 4 and Table 5; FIG. 6 and FIG. 7.
TABLE-US-00005 TABLE 5 Sensory Evaluation Dry Stage Summary
Commercial silicon free Z304-16C Z304-16D Z304-16E shampoo Washing
Cycles Parameter Description 1 5 1 5 1 5 1 5 Sheen Amount of 3.58
3.83 3.58 3.83 3.33 3.833 3.50 3.58 dull-shiny reflected light
Combability Ease of 3.50 4.33 3.75 3.83 3.25 4.083 3.25 3.08
Difficult - detangling easy Combability Ease of combing 3.42 4.25
3.50 4.00 3.33 3.917 3.08 3.08 Difficult - down hair shaft easy Fly
away Tendency of 2.42 3.67 2.67 3.58 2.75 3.500 3.75 3.50 Much -
none individual hairs to rebel each after 3 strokes of combing
Volume Extend to which 3.92 3.50 3.50 3.67 3.50 3.583 3.08 3.83 Low
volume - the hair appears full full Slipperiness Lack of drag or
3.75 3.92 4.00 3.75 3.92 3.750 3.83 3.75 Drags - slips resistance
as moving along hairs between fingers Roughness A rough, brittle
3.42 4.00 3.50 4.00 3.17 4.000 3.17 3.75 Drag - smooth texture
Dryness Feel devoid of 3.33 4.00 3.58 4.00 3.42 4.083 3.58 3.83
Very dry - not moisture dry
Example 5: Procedure for Determining the Cationic Charge Density of
Polymers
[0161] To determine the cationic charge of polymers, a Miltek
charge analyzer was used. The aqueous sample was placed in the
measuring cell. Once the PCD was turned on, the piston of the cell
oscillates and causes a high flow rate. Any charged material
adsorbed to the cell wall was separated from its counter-ions by
the flow to create a streaming current. Two electrodes in the cell
pick up this current and display it. The titration module
automatically selects the titrant which is charged oppositely to
the sample (cationic sample-anionic titrant) and adds it to the
sample until 0 mV was reached. As a result the consumption of
titrant in ml was indicated on the display as well as the charge
demand in meq/1.
Example 6: Wet Combability of Sulfate Free Shampoo Composition
[0162] The combing measurement of the hair tresses treated with
sulfate-free shampoo was done on Instron device. The energy needed
to comb the tress was listed as gf-mm. For every measurement 3
bleached hair tresses were used and the average was calculated. To
measure durable conditioning the tress is first treated with 0.1
g/g hair shampoo, which is then rinsed off and the comb energy is
measured. The tress was washed 2 more times and the comb energy was
again measured. The results of wet comb energy after 1 and 3 washes
are disclosed in FIG. 8 for sulfate free shampoo compositions of
Table 6.
[0163] From the results of wet combability of Sulfate free shampoo
compositions, it is evident that the conditioning performance of
terpolymers in sulfate-free shampoo is even better as compared to
PolyAPTAC, a cationic homopolymer. The shampoos were applied on
damaged hair 0.1 g grams per gram of bleached hair (1 hour
bleached) and wet comb energies were measured after 1 and 3 and 5
times of washing with 0.1 grams per gram hair experimental shampoo.
Both homopolymer and terpolymer containing sulfate-free shampoos
were outperforming commercial silicone-free shampoo. When compared
to the silicone-containing commercial sulfate-free shampoo, the
experimental shampoo was performing on the same level even without
silicones.
TABLE-US-00006 TABLE 6 Sulfate free shampoo compositions comprising
Homopolymers/Terpolymers Solids (%) Solids (%) INCI Formula 1
Formula 2 Aqua qs 100 qs 100 PolyAPTAC 0.2 -- APTAC/AA/BEM -- 0.2
Disodium Laureth Sulfosuccinate 8.16 8.16 Cocamidopropyl Betaine/
3.85 3.85 Alkylamidopropyl Betaine Sodium Lauroyl Sarcosinate 2.70
2.70 Methylisothiazolinone and Phenyl- 0.2 0.2 propanol and
Propylene Glycol Sodium hydroxide Citric acid
Example 7: Durable Styling Properties of Conditioning Polymers on
Frizzy Hair
[0164] The durable styling properties of following conditioning
polymers were evaluated on frizzy hair: [0165] i. APTAC
Homopolymer: (Poly-APTAC) [0166] ii. APTAC based terpolymer: A
16522 (APTAC/AA/BEM) [0167] iii. Hair spray containing Styleze XT3
[0168] iv. Commercial Available hair spray (heat activated) [0169]
v. 3% polymer solution of each polymer is prepare and is
tested.
[0170] The Hair tresses treated with above mentioned formulations
are evaluated according to the protocol which is presented below.
Originally it was developed to study styling durability of Styleze
XT3. Wherein, the use of Styleze XT3 in hairstyling products
provides benefits for different hair types such as curly, wave and
frizzy hair. The polymer is activated after heating by a hair
straightener and concentrates on the damaged parts of hair to
improve the softness, frizz and shine. With the same technology,
commercially available hairspray is a heat-activated formula with
keratin protein. This semi-permanent styling spray is claimed to
transform curly, frizzy hair into a straight, smooth style that
lasts up to 3 washes.
[0171] Tress Treatment Method:
[0172] Materials Required: [0173] i. Shampoo; Normal--non
care/conditioning [0174] ii. Conditioner: Normal [0175] iii. Tress
type: 1'' or 1.5'' width.times.6.5'' length mulatto (2 g and 3.5 g,
respectively). [0176] iv. Blow dryer: Professional. [0177] v. Vent
brush [0178] vi. Flat Iron: 1'' wide, high temp setting
(>/=205.degree. C.)--preferably need to deliver sustained heat
(>145.degree. C.) to the hair fiber assembly (it has been
observed that the temperature realized on the hair is approximately
40-50.degree. C. lower than the iron setpoint--dependant on the
rate of movement). Iron setpoint of 232 C preferred for optimal
results.
[0179] Method:
[0180] Hair tress was washed with warm water (35-40.degree. C.)--30
second wetting, 30 sec wash, 30 sec rinse. The excess water is
removed and blot with towel--tress in damp state. Approximately,
0.30 g of product/gram of hair was applied; worked through from
root to tip with fingers until uniformly distributed--remove excess
with fingers or comb. The tress was straightened by Blow dry (high
heat) with slow uniform motion from root to tip with vent brush. It
was ensured for alignment of fibers prior to next step. Flat iron
root to tip with 4 to 5 passes, .about.1.25 in/sec. Wherein, the
hair should feel smooth and natural with good shine, and if there
is any raspy polymeric feel, additional passes were allowed. Tress
was allowed to equilibrate to lab conditions for 30-45 min at
25.degree. C./40% RH. Tresses were evaluated for their
straightness. Hair tresses were washed with warm water of
35-40.degree. C. with 30 seconds wetting, 30 seconds wash (normal
shampoo), and 30 seconds rinse. Further, condition the hair for 30
seconds, followed by 30 seconds rinse. The hair was dried with
diffuse hot air (dome dryer). The hair tresses were allowed to
equilibrate to lab conditions for 30-45 min at 25.degree. C./40%
RH. The tress was evaluated after one wash. In the similar manner,
repeat steps for 7 to 10 times as desired.
[0181] From durable styling experimental results (FIG. 9 to 12), it
is very evident that the polymer solutions containing either
homopolymer or terpolymer (A16522) outperformed commercial hair
sprays designed to provide durable styling. Both test products
showed visibly a good performance. Frizzy hair is transformed into
a straight, smooth hair. The frizz was thus reduced significantly.
For long lasting effect (durability) the composition of this
invention is better than commercially available analogous after
multiple washes.
Example 8: Stiffness/Flexibility Evaluation of Conditioning
Polymers on Hair
[0182] Stiffness is defined as the resistance to being crushed. A
stiff styling product would be one that requires a high force in
order to cause a deformation. The stiffness/flexibility of the homo
and terpolymers were measured at 50% RH. A set of 6 tresses were
used for every sample. It is observed that the homo and terpolymer
containing APTAC provided significantly lower stiffness as compared
to that of references products or polymer (Table 7). The higher
stiffness is associated with stronger hold.
TABLE-US-00007 TABLE 7 Stiffness/Flexibility of
Homopolymers/Terpolymers Product Average Stiffness (F1) Std. Dev.
APTAC Homopolymer 86.49 27.43 Terpolymer A 16522 74.80 8.15
Commercial Mousse A 188.65 55.59 Commercial Mousse B 316.78 61.28
(Reference)
Example 9: Resilience Evaluation of Conditioning Polymers on
Hair
[0183] Resilience is the maintenance of stiffness on repeated
deformations. So when looking at the stiffness data, the closer the
ratio is to one for a sample, the more resilient the product. It
means that the duration of a curl hold stiffness of a product is
better. Hence, the developmental polymers showed a better result
than the references and it is significant (Table 8). The stiffness
retention of both test polymers is almost the same.
TABLE-US-00008 TABLE 8 The average resilience of
Homopolymers/Terpolymers Product Average Resilience Std. Dev. APTAC
Homopolymer 1.05 0.01 Terpolymer A 16522 1.05 0.04 Commercial
Mousse A 0.86 0.02 Commercial Mousse B 0.69 0.06 (Reference)
Example 10: Plasticity Evaluation of Conditioning Polymers on
Hair
[0184] Plasticity is defined as the ability of a material to bend
without breaking. The plasticity of the homo and terpolymers of
present application is as good as the references products (Table
9).
TABLE-US-00009 TABLE 9 The average plasticity of
Homopolymers/Terpolymers Product Average Plasticity Std. Dev. APTAC
homopolymer 1.10 0.02 Terpolymer A 16522 1.11 0.02 Commercial Curl
Power Mousse A 1.10 0.02 Commercial Mousse B 1.10 0.02
(Reference)
Example 11: Elasticity Evaluation of Conditioning Polymers on
Hair
[0185] Elasticity is defined as the ability of a material to bend
without breaking and return to the original shape without using an
external force. Test polymers performed better than reference, i.e.
Commercial Mousse. Terpolymer A16522 is slightly better than APTAC
Homopolymer, but there was no significant difference in the
performance (Table 9A).
TABLE-US-00010 TABLE 9A The average elasticity of
Homopolymers/Terpolymers Product Average Elasticity Std. Dev. APTAC
Homopolymer 0.78 0.09 Terpolymer A 16522 0.87 0.07 Commercial
Mousse 0.54 0.12 Commercial Mousse 0.19 0.02 (Reference)
Example 12: Curl Retention Evaluation of Conditioning Polymers on
Hair
[0186] This analysis indicates the holding power of a styling
product. A set of 8 tresses is used for every sample. The curl
retention of the test polymers is measured based on following
parameters: [0187] i. Temperature: 25.degree. C..+-.2.degree.
[0188] ii. Humidity: 50%.+-.2% [0189] iii. Time: 4.5 hours Wherein,
the test polymers showed better results than reference group
wherein no polymer was employed but the results were not better
than Commercial Curl Power mousse. Curl retention of Poly-APTAC was
better than terpolymer A16522 with the confidence interval at 95%.
After 4.5 hours, the curl retention of Poly-APTAC is 70% and
terpolymer A 16522 60%.
Example 13: Shine Evaluation of Conditioning Polymers on Hair
[0190] Shiny hair is a healthy sign. Therefore use of polymers in
hair styling products is available to increase the shine of hair by
forming a film around the surface of hair. Such polymers increases
the luster values of hair after treatment and it can be calculated
as the difference between specular and diffuse reflectance. The
shine capability of products was measured. Set of 4 very dark
European Caucasian virgin brown hair tresses was used for every
sample. The luster calculation is given below:
L Stamm = S - D Stamm S ##EQU00001## L Robbins = S D Stamm .times.
W 1 / 2 ##EQU00001.2## [0191] S=Area under Specular reflectance
curve [0192] D.sub.Stamm=Area under Stamm type Diffuse reflectance
curve [0193] W1/2=Width of Specular peak at 1/2 its maximum
intensity
[0194] The Lustre value is comparing the contrast between the dark
region and the light region. The Peak Maxima is an indication of
the brightness of the light portion of the tress. W1/2 is the width
of the specular peak at half of its maximum intensity or the light
area. Further the shine is evaluated and described by the
Intensity, Stamm Luster and Robbins Luster values. Studies were
conducted for (i) homo and terpolymer of APTAC; (ii) A commercial
reference polymer; (iii) VC713 based mousse, a reference polymer.
From our results, it is observed that the use of APTAC based
polymers is better than reference polymer in providing gloss for
hair stresses. The results are discussed in below Table 10-13 and
FIG. 16-19.
TABLE-US-00011 TABLE 10 Shine evaluation of APTAC Homopolymer APTAC
Peak W1/2 Stamm Robbins homopolymer Maxima (mm) Lustre Lustre
Untreated 214.22 7.02 0.81 0.76 Treated 193.28 7.94 0.89 1.22 %
Average Increase -11.2 11.6 9.3 36.0 Standard Deviation 7.7 2.2 3.1
15.1
TABLE-US-00012 TABLE 11 Shine evaluation of APTAC Terpolymer APTAC
Peak W1/2 Stamm Robbins terpolymer A16522 Maxima (mm) Lustre Lustre
Untreated 213.86 7.33 0.80 0.70 Treated 196.33 8.45 0.87 0.91 %
Average Increase -9.2 13.1 7.5 22.5 Standard Deviation 7.9 8.0 1.0
6.0
TABLE-US-00013 TABLE 12 Shine evaluation of Commercial Mousse
(Reference) Commercial Peak w1/2 Stamm Robbins mousse Maxima (mm)
Lustre Lustre Untreated 203.70 7.24 0.82 0.76 Treated 191.14 7.47
0.86 0.99 % Increase -6.56 2.83 5.00 21.02 Standard Deviation 1.74
4.17 2.30 14.20
TABLE-US-00014 TABLE 13 Shine evaluation of VC713 based mousse
(Reference) VC 713 Peak w1/2 Stamm Robbins based mousse Maxima (mm)
Lustre Lustre Untreated 194.81 7.43 0.83 0.79 Treated 180.90 7.62
0.86 0.95 % Increase -7.77 2.40 3.60 15.88 Standard Deviation 3.36
2.40 1.89 9.95
Example 14: Shampoo for Protecting Dyed Hair Color
TABLE-US-00015 [0195] 12472-79 12472-107 Ingredients Weight %
Weight % Deionized Water QS QS APTAC/AMPS/PEG-BEM (40% active) 2.50
-- Sodium Laureth Sulfate (2M, 70% active) 17.15 17.15
Cocamidopropyl Betaine (30% active) 6.67 6.67 Methylisothiazolinone
& Phenylpropanol & 0.20 0.20 Propylene Glycol & water
Citric Acid (10% solution) 1.10 0.56 Sodium Chloride 1.42 2.49
Sodium Hydroxide (10% solution) 0.60 pH = 5.63, pH = 5.70,
Viscosity = Viscosity = 4380 cps 6600 cps
Example 15: Conditioner for Protecting Dyed Hair Color
TABLE-US-00016 [0196] 12472-76 12472-75 Ingredients Weight % Weight
% Deionized Water QS QS APTAC/AMPS/PEG-BEM (40% active) 2.50 --
Cetrimonium Chloride (25% active) 4.00 4.00 Cetyl Alcohol 5.00 5.00
Cetyl Hydroxyethyl Cellulose 0.50 0.50 Dimethicone 1.00 1.00
Propylene Glycol 0.50 0.50 Propylene Glycol & Diazolidinyl Urea
& 0.50 0.50 Iodorpropynyl Butylcarbamate Citric Acid (10%
solution) 0.17 pH = 4.85 pH = 3.92 Viscosity = Viscosity 86000 cps
133000 cps
[0197] Materials:
[0198] The medium density platinum bleached hair (6'' length) from
International Hair Importers was procured. The hair tresses were
cut to 0.5 inches in width and weight approximately 2.97 grams.
Wherein, textures and tones permanent hair color (Shade 4R, Red Hot
Red) was measured using HunterLab Colorimeter.
[0199] Hair Dyeing Procedure:
[0200] Dye 1'' hair tresses for 45 minutes at 71 F; rinse each hair
tress for 2 minutes under running water. The APTAC/AMPS/PEG-BEM
terpolymer was employed for evaluate its ability to protect the
dyed hair color with various evaluation parameters that are known
in the prior art for a person skilled in the art.
[0201] Interpreting the Results:
[0202] Color measurements (L*, a*, b*) were taken on each tress
right after dyeing. L*, a*, b* values were measured on each tress
after one, three, five and ten wash/treatment cycles. These values
were compared to the initial L*, a*, b* values for the tress, and
.DELTA.E* was calculated for each tress. Each tress served as its
own control. 10 measurements were taken for each tress. .DELTA.E*
was calculated based on the initial value of the tress. The
.DELTA.E* reported is the average .DELTA.E* for 3 tresses. The
smaller the .DELTA.E* value, the smaller the color change, and
better the color protection.
.DELTA. E * = .DELTA. L * + .DELTA. a * + .DELTA. b * ##EQU00002##
Where : .DELTA. L * = L T * - L Initial * ; .DELTA. a * = a T * - a
Initial * ; .DELTA. b * = b T * - b Initial * ##EQU00002.2## %
Color protection = .DELTA. E sample * - .DELTA. E control * .DELTA.
E control * .times. 100 ##EQU00002.3##
[0203] It should be noted that the terpolymers are meant to be used
in combination with other cationic ingredients. For that reason, we
tried the color protection performance in conditioner bases that
are mimic finished formulas and also tried the performance of the
terpolymer in finished commercial formulas. Commercial available
compositions typically comprise a combination of alkyl quaternary
compounds such as cetrimonium chloride, behentrimonium chloride to
provide conditioning benefit, and silicones such as dimethicone to
provide conditioning and color protection benefit. Therefore, it is
important to assess the effect of the terpolymer in the presence of
cationic polymers and silicones, as this will be a good indicator
of its performance in finished products.
Example 16: Rinse-Off Conditioner (1 Application) with Shampoo
Procedure
[0204] Step 1:
[0205] (a) The conditioner (0.5 mL) of example 16 was applied to
freshly dyed/rinsed hair. (b) The hair was left as such for 1
minute, and then (c) rinsed for 30 seconds followed by hair is air
dried.
[0206] Step 2:
[0207] (a) Further, the above hair was rinsed for 30 seconds under
running water (38.degree. C., 4 L/min), (b) massaged with 0.5 mL
shampoo into hair for 30 seconds, and then, (c) rinsed for 30
seconds. (d) Air dry tress was performed. Repeat step 2a-d for ten
times.
[0208] The result of rinse-off conditioner (1 application) is
summarized in Table 14.
TABLE-US-00017 TABLE 14 Results for one time application of
rinse-off conditioner With Without PolyAPTAC/AMPS/ PolyAPTAC/AMPS/
% Color Rinse-off PEG-BEM PEG-BEM Protection .DELTA.E* 1x 6.24 6.88
9.30 .DELTA.E* 3x 12.65 14.12 10.41 .DELTA.E* 5x 14.38 16.04 10.35
.DELTA.E* 10x 16.11 19.39 16.92
Example 17: Shampoo with Leave-on Conditioner Regimen Procedure
[0209] Step 1:
[0210] (a) The leave-on conditioner (0.5 mL) was applied to wet,
freshly dyed/rinsed hair, and (b) then remove the excess
conditioner from hair. (c) Hair was dried with air.
[0211] Step 2:
[0212] (a) Further, the above hair was rinsed for 30 seconds, (b)
then massage the with 0.5 mL shampoo into hair for another 30
seconds followed by (c) the hair was again rinsed for 30 seconds,
(d) 0.5 mL of leave-on conditioner was applied to the hair and
remove the excess amount, (e) then, air dry hair. Repeat steps 2a-e
for 10 times.
[0213] The result of shampoo with leave-on conditioner is
summarized in Table 15.
TABLE-US-00018 TABLE 15 Results for shampoo with leave-on
conditioner regimen With Without PolyAPTAC/ PolyAPTAC/ AMPS/PEG-
AMPS/PEG- % Color Leave-on BEM (12472-76 & 79) BEM (12472-107
&75) Protection .DELTA.E* 1x 5.61 5.9 4.92 .DELTA.E* 3x 9.08
11.47 20.84 .DELTA.E* 5x 9.43 12.66 25.51 .DELTA.E* 10x 11.2 14.74
24.02
Example 18: Shampoo with Conditioner and Leave-on Conditioner
Regimen Procedure
[0214] Step 1:
[0215] (a) The leave-on conditioner (0.5 mL) was applied to wet,
freshly dyed/rinsed hair, and (b) then remove the excess
conditioner from hair. (c) Hair was dried with air.
[0216] Step 2:
[0217] (a) Further, the above hair was rinsed for 30 seconds, (b)
massage with 0.5 mL shampoo into hair for another 30 seconds
followed by (c) the hair was again rinsed for 30 seconds, (d)
massage with 0.5 mL conditioner into hair and leave on for 30
seconds (e) the hair was rinsed again for 30 seconds (f) 0.5 mL
leave on conditioner was applied to hair (g) hair was air dried,
and (h) repeat the step 2 a-g for ten times.
[0218] The result of shampoo with conditioner and leave-on
conditioner is duly summarized in Table 16.
TABLE-US-00019 TABLE 16 Results for shampoo with conditioner and
leave-on conditioner regimen With Without Conditioner PolyAPTAC/
PolyAPTAC/ and AMPS/PEG- AMPS/PEG-BEM % Color Leave-on BEM
(12472-76 & 79) (12472-107 &75) Protection .DELTA.E* 1x
6.28 7.8 19.49 .DELTA.E* 3x 9.5 11.31 16.00 .DELTA.E* 5x 10.45
12.15 13.99 .DELTA.E* 10x 12.9 15.04 14.23
Example 19: Commercial Shampoo with Conditioner Regimen
Procedure
[0219] Steps:
[0220] (a) The hair was rinsed for 30 seconds under running water,
(b) massaged with 0.5 mL commercial shampoo into hair for another
30 seconds followed by (c) the hair was rinsed again for 30
seconds, (d) again massaged with 0.5 mL conditioner into hair and
leave on for 30 seconds (e) then, hair was rinsed again for 30
seconds (f) air dry tress was performed, and (g) repeat the step
a-f for ten times.
[0221] The result of commercial shampoo with conditioner is duly
summarized in Table 17.
TABLE-US-00020 TABLE 17 Results for commercial shampoo with
conditioner regimen Without With PolyAPTAC/AMPS/ PolyAPTAC/AMPS/ %
Color Conditioner PEG-BEM PEG-BEM Protection 1x wash 9.12 6.22
31.83 3x wash 17.14 15.45 9.82 5x wash 21.22 18.34 13.56 10x wash
24.36 21.11 13.34
Example 20: Commercial Shampoo with Leave on Conditioner Regimen
Procedure
[0222] Steps:
[0223] (a) The leave on conditioner (0.5 mL) was applied to wet,
freshly dyed/rinsed hair and removed excess conditioner from hair
(b) then hair was air dried (c) hair was rinsed for 30 seconds (d)
massaged with 0.5 mL commercial shampoo into hair for another 30
seconds followed by (e) the hair was rinsed again for 30 seconds,
(f) again massaged with 0.5 mL leave-on conditioner into hair and
remove the excess application, (g) the hair was air dried (h)
repeat the steps a-f for ten times.
[0224] The result of commercial shampoo with leave-on conditioner
is duly summarized in Table 18.
TABLE-US-00021 TABLE 18 Results for commercial shampoo with
leave-on conditioner regimen Without With Leave-on PolyAPTAC/AMPS/
PolyAPTAC/AMPS/ % Color Conditioner PEG-BEM PEG-BEM Protection 1x
wash 7.80 4.79 38.66 3x wash 17.71 15.07 14.93 5x wash 21.35 18.99
11.04 10x wash 22.64 21.11 6.77
Example 21: Commercial Shampoo with Conditioner and Leave-on
Conditioner Regimen
[0225] Step 1:
[0226] (a) The conditioner (0.5 mL) was applied to wet, freshly
dyed/rinsed hair, and (b) then remove the excess conditioner from
hair. (c) Hair was dried with air.
[0227] Step 2:
[0228] (a) The above hair was rinsed for 30 seconds (b) massaged
with 0.5 mL commercial shampoo into hair for another 30 seconds
followed by (c) the hair was rinsed again for 30 seconds, (d) again
massaged with 0.5 mL conditioner into hair and leave-on for 30
seconds, (e) then hair was rinsed for 30 seconds (f) the leave-on
conditioner (0.5 mL) was applied to the previously rinsed hair, (g)
the hair was air dried, and (h) repeat the step 2a-g for ten
times.
[0229] The result of commercial shampoo with conditioner and
leave-on conditioner is duly summarized in Table 19.
TABLE-US-00022 TABLE 19 Results for commercial shampoo with
conditioner and leave-on conditioner Without With Leave-on
PolyAPTAC/AMPS/ PolyAPTAC/AMPS/ % Color Conditioner PEG-BEM PEG-BEM
Protection 1x wash 10.76 7.30 32.16 3x wash 20.16 16.97 15.81 5x
wash 23.69 20.03 15.44 10x wash 25.44 21.84 14.16
[0230] While this invention has been described in detail with
reference to certain preferred embodiments, it should be
appreciated that the present invention is not limited to those
precise embodiments. Rather, in view of the present disclosure,
which describes the current best mode for practicing the invention,
many modifications and variations would present themselves to those
skilled in the art without departing from the scope and spirit of
this invention.
* * * * *