U.S. patent application number 15/329160 was filed with the patent office on 2017-08-03 for emulsion comprising a silicone-based dendritic film-forming polymer and a silicone gum, treatment process using the same and suitable device.
This patent application is currently assigned to L'OREAL. The applicant listed for this patent is L'OREAL. Invention is credited to Pascaline CORDELETTE, Florence LAHOUSSE.
Application Number | 20170216183 15/329160 |
Document ID | / |
Family ID | 54291259 |
Filed Date | 2017-08-03 |
United States Patent
Application |
20170216183 |
Kind Code |
A1 |
LAHOUSSE; Florence ; et
al. |
August 3, 2017 |
EMULSION COMPRISING A SILICONE-BASED DENDRITIC FILM-FORMING POLYMER
AND A SILICONE GUM, TREATMENT PROCESS USING THE SAME AND SUITABLE
DEVICE
Abstract
The present invention relates to a makeup and/or care
composition in the form of an emulsion comprising: a. at least one
film-forming polymer chosen from vinyl polymers comprising at least
one carbosiloxane dendrimer-based unit, b. at least 2% by weight of
at least one non-volatile oil, c. at least one silicone gum chosen
from polyorganosiloxanes with a weight-average molecular mass of at
least 400000 g/mol, d. water. The present invention also relates to
a process for making up and/or caring for the lips, comprising the
application to the lips of a composition according to the
invention. Finally, the present invention relates to a device
comprising the composition according to the invention.
Inventors: |
LAHOUSSE; Florence; (Thiais,
FR) ; CORDELETTE; Pascaline; (Igny, FR) |
|
Applicant: |
Name |
City |
State |
Country |
Type |
L'OREAL |
Paris |
|
FR |
|
|
Assignee: |
L'OREAL
Paris
FR
|
Family ID: |
54291259 |
Appl. No.: |
15/329160 |
Filed: |
September 25, 2015 |
PCT Filed: |
September 25, 2015 |
PCT NO: |
PCT/EP2015/072170 |
371 Date: |
January 25, 2017 |
Current U.S.
Class: |
1/1 |
Current CPC
Class: |
A45D 34/04 20130101;
A61K 8/92 20130101; A61K 2800/87 20130101; A61K 8/345 20130101;
A61Q 1/04 20130101; A61K 8/31 20130101; A61K 8/895 20130101; A61K
8/89 20130101; A45D 2200/1018 20130101; A61K 8/81 20130101; A45D
2200/055 20130101; A61K 8/892 20130101; A61Q 1/06 20130101; A61K
2800/95 20130101; A61K 8/894 20130101 |
International
Class: |
A61K 8/81 20060101
A61K008/81; A61K 8/34 20060101 A61K008/34; A45D 34/04 20060101
A45D034/04; A61K 8/892 20060101 A61K008/892; A61K 8/894 20060101
A61K008/894; A61K 8/31 20060101 A61K008/31; A61K 8/89 20060101
A61K008/89; A61Q 1/06 20060101 A61Q001/06 |
Foreign Application Data
Date |
Code |
Application Number |
Sep 25, 2014 |
FR |
1459075 |
Sep 25, 2014 |
FR |
1459090 |
Claims
1. A composition in the form of an emulsion, comprising: a. a
film-forming polymer chosen from vinyl polymers comprising a
carbosiloxane dendrimer-based unit; b. at least 2% by weight of a
non-volatile oil; c. a silicone gum chosen from polyorganosiloxanes
with a weight-average molecular mass of at least 400,000 g/mol; and
d. water.
2. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the vinyl polymer
comprises a carbosiloxane dendrimer-based unit of formula:
##STR00028## wherein: R.sup.1 represents an aryl group containing
from 5 to 10 carbon atoms or an alkyl group containing from 1 to 10
carbon atoms; X.sup.i represents a silylalkyl group which, when
i=1, is represented by formula (II): ##STR00029## wherein: R.sup.1
is as defined above in formula (I), R.sup.2 represents an alkylene
radical containing from 2 to 10 carbon atoms, R.sup.3 represents an
alkyl group containing from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, X.sup.i+i is
chosen from: a hydrogen atom, an alkyl group containing from 1 to
10 carbon atoms, an aryl group containing from 5 to 10 carbon atoms
and a silylalkyl group defined above of formula (II) with i=i+1, i
is an integer from 1 to 10 which represents the generation of said
silylalkyl group, and a.sup.i is an integer from 0 to 3; Y
represents a radical-polymerizable organic group chosen from:
organic groups containing a methacrylic group or an acrylic group,
said organic groups being represented by the formulae: ##STR00030##
wherein: R.sup.4 represents a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group
containing from 1 to 10 carbon atoms; and R.sup.5 represents an
alkylene group containing from 1 to 10 carbon atoms; and organic
groups containing a styryl group of formula: ##STR00031## wherein:
R.sup.6 represents a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group containing
from 1 to 10 carbon atoms; R.sup.7 represents an alkyl group
containing from 1 to 10 carbon atoms; R.sup.8 represents an
alkylene group containing from 1 to 10 carbon atoms; b is an
integer from 0 to 4; and c is 0 or 1, such that if c is 0,
--(R.sup.8)c- represents a bond.
3. The composition according to claim 2, wherein the carbosiloxane
dendrimer is represented by formula: ##STR00032## wherein: Y,
R.sup.1, R.sup.2, R.sup.3, a.sup.1, a.sup.2 and a.sup.3 are as
defined in claim 2; and R.sup.12 represents a hydrogen atom, an
aryl group containing from 5 to 10 carbon atoms or an alkyl group
containing from 1 to 10 carbon atoms.
4. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the carbosiloxane
dendrimer is represented by one of the following formulae:
##STR00033##
5. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the film-forming
polymer chosen from vinyl polymers comprising a carbosiloxane
dendrimer-based unit is present in an active material content
ranging from 0.5% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of
the composition.
6. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the non-volatile
oil(s) are chosen from non-volatile silicone oils which are
optionally phenylated, non-volatile fluoro oils, polar or apolar
non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oils, or mixtures thereof.
7. The composition according to claim 1, comprising a non-volatile
silicone oil.
8. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the content of the
non-volatile oil(s) represents from 3% to 30% by weight, relative
to the weight of the composition.
9. The composition according to claim 1, comprising a volatile oil
chosen from hydrocarbon-based, silicone and fluoro volatile
oils.
10. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the silicone gum
is of formula: ##STR00034## wherein: R7, R8, R11 and R12 are
identical or different, and each is chosen from alkyl radicals
comprising from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, R9 and R10 are identical or
different, and each is chosen from an alkyl radical comprising from
1 to 6 carbon atoms, an aryl radical, a hydroxyl radical, a vinyl
radical, a hydroxyl radical; X is chosen from an alkyl radical
comprising from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, a hydroxyl radical, a vinyl
radical, a hydroxyl radical; n and p are chosen so as to give the
silicone gum a molecular mass of greater than or equal to 400000
g/mol, given that n and p are not simultaneously zero.
11. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the silicone gum
is a polydimethylsiloxane gum optionally comprising at least one
aryl radical, a dimethiconol gum, or mixtures thereof.
12. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the silicone gum
is present in an active material content ranging from 0.1% to 10%
by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
13. The composition according to claim 1, further comprising a
surfactant chosen from nonionic or anionic, hydrocarbon-based or
silicone surfactants, and mixtures thereof.
14. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the composition
comprises a water content of at least 10% by weight, relative to
the total weight of the composition.
15. The composition according to claim 1, further comprising a
saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C.sub.2-C.sub.8 polyol
that is liquid at room temperature (25.degree. C.), comprising from
2 to 6 hydroxyl groups.
16. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the composition
is in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion.
17. The composition according to claim 1, further comprising a
pasty compound(s) chosen from hydrocarbon-based or silicon
compounds.
18. The composition according to claim 17, wherein the pasty
compound(s) is/are present in a content of greater than 0.5% by
weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
19. A process for making up and/or caring for the lips, comprising
applying to said lips a composition according to claim 1.
20. A device, comprising a container in which is stored the
composition according to claim 1 and comprising an application
member with a porous application surface.
21. The device according to claim 20, comprising a
composition-dispensing mechanism configured for expelling said
composition from the container to the application member.
Description
[0001] The present invention relates to a care and/or makeup
cosmetic composition in the form of an emulsion comprising an
aqueous phase, at least one silicone-based dendritic film-forming
polymer, at least one non-volatile oil and at least one silicone
gum. The present invention also relates to a makeup and/or care
process, preferably for the lips, which consists in applying said
composition, and also to a device comprising it and suitable for
the application thereof.
[0002] The development of compositions for making up and/or caring
for the lips, in particular fluid compositions such as liquid
lipsticks, which are stable and endowed with satisfactory
properties in terms of application (glidance on application, ease
of spreading and fineness of the deposit), but also in terms of the
makeup effect of the deposit on the lips, for instance the absence
of migration of the deposit, preferably without becoming tacky, is
an ongoing objective.
[0003] Generally, formulations corresponding to liquid galenical
formulations conventionally comprise oils, which in particular
provide gloss, optionally waxes for structuring the compositions,
fillers, in particular for thickening the composition, film-forming
polymers, and dyestuffs.
[0004] These formulations must be easy to apply on the lips,
precisely and as a uniform coat. In addition, the deposit is not
expected to migrate, which would result in the outline of the lips
being made imprecise.
[0005] With the conventional lipstick compositions of this type, it
is noted that the deposit is relatively thick, thereby giving it a
more or less tacky nature, in particular induced by the use of
these oils and of the polymers present. This feature may be
reflected especially by adhesion of the made-up lips to each other,
causing the user an unpleasant sensation in terms of comfort.
[0006] Another difficulty encountered with liquid lipsticks lies in
the fact that the compositions must be sufficiently fluid to be
easily applied, but not too fluid, so as to avoid degrading the
stability of the composition (pigment sedimentation) and the ease
of application (running). Compositions, in particular liquid
compositions, which produce a fine deposit that does not migrate
and that has virtually no tacky nature are thus sought.
Compositions that are comfortable to deposit without losing staying
power are also sought.
[0007] At least one of these objectives is achieved by the present
invention, which relates to a composition comprising: [0008] a. at
least one film-forming polymer chosen from vinyl polymers
comprising at least one carbosiloxane dendrimer-based unit, [0009]
b. at least 2% by weight, relative to the weight of the
composition, of at least one non-volatile oil, [0010] c. at least
one silicone gum chosen from polyorganosiloxanes with a
weight-average molecular mass of greater than or equal to 400000
g/mol. [0011] d. water.
[0012] The invention also relates to a process for making up and/or
caring for the lips, which consists in applying said composition,
and also to a device comprising the composition and suitable for
applying said composition.
[0013] Application devices that are particularly suited to this
composition will be described with reference to the appended
drawings, in which:
[0014] FIG. 1 is a sectional view of an application device
according to a first embodiment;
[0015] FIG. 2 is an exploded view of an application device
according to a second embodiment;
[0016] FIG. 3 is a sectional view of the device of FIG. 2.
[0017] The film deposited on the lips thus has the advantage of
being very thin and, in certain cases, of being virtually
imperceptible to the user.
[0018] It is also comfortable in the sense that it is supple on the
lips and leaves them with great freedom of movement. The comfort is
also reflected by the absence of a sensation of dryness, while at
the same time conserving good performance qualities in terms of
absence of migration of the composition and of staying power of the
composition on the lips. It should also be noted that this comfort
nature afforded by the deposit is persistent.
[0019] In addition, and this represents a very desired advantage,
this deposit is not tacky.
[0020] Throughout the application, the wording "comprising a" or
"containing a" means "comprising at least one" or "containing at
least one", unless otherwise specified. The expressions "at least
one" and "several" are used without distinction. Unless otherwise
indicated, the limits indicated for a range are included in that
range.
[0021] The cosmetic composition for making up and/or caring for the
lips according to the invention is in the form of an emulsion,
especially a water-in-oil or oil-in-water emulsion, preferably in
the form of a water-in-oil emulsion.
[0022] Advantageously, the composition according to the invention
is in the form of a liquid emulsion.
[0023] The term "liquid" means a fluid texture, the viscosity of
which at 25.degree. C. is more particularly between 0.005 and 15
Pas, preferably between 0.01 and 10 Pas and even more
advantageously between 0.05 and 8 Pas.
[0024] Preferably, the viscosity at 25.degree. C. of a composition
according to the invention is between 0.1 and 6 Pas.
Protocol for Measuring the Viscosity:
[0025] The viscosity measurement is generally performed at
25.degree. C., using a Rheomat RM180 viscometer equipped with a No.
2 or 3 spindle, the measurement being performed after 10 minutes of
rotation of the spindle in the composition (after which time
stabilization of the viscosity and of the spin speed of the spindle
are observed), at 200 rpm.
[0026] The composition may be in the form of a direct
(oil-in-water) or inverse (water-in-oil) emulsion.
[0027] According to one preferred embodiment of the invention, the
composition is in the form of an inverse (water-in-oil)
emulsion.
[0028] Irrespective of the sense of the emulsion, the composition
according to the invention comprises at least 10% by weight of
water and preferably from 20% to 60% by weight, relative to the
total weight of the composition.
[0029] Other characteristics and details of the invention will
emerge more clearly on reading the description and the examples
that follow.
Film-Forming Polymer
[0030] As indicated previously, the composition according to the
invention comprises at least one film-forming polymer chosen from
vinyl polymers comprising at least one carbosiloxane
dendrimer-based unit.
[0031] The term "film-forming polymer" is intended to mean a
polymer that is capable of forming, by itself or in the presence of
an auxiliary film-forming agent, a continuous deposit on a support,
in particular on keratin materials.
[0032] The vinyl polymer(s) have a backbone and at least one side
chain, which comprises a carbosiloxane dendrimer-based unit having
a carbosiloxane dendrimer structure.
[0033] The term "carbosiloxane dendrimer structure" in the context
of the present invention represents a molecular structure bearing
branched groups of high molecular masses, said structure having
high regularity in the radial direction starting from the bond to
the backbone. Such carbosiloxane dendrimer structures are described
in the form of a highly branched siloxane-silylalkylene copolymer
in Japanese patent application JP 9-171 154.
[0034] A vinyl polymer according to the invention may contain
carbosiloxane dendrimer-based units that may be represented by the
general formula (I) below:
##STR00001##
in which:
[0035] R.sup.1 represents an aryl group containing from 5 to 10
carbon atoms or an alkyl group containing from 1 to 10 carbon
atoms;
[0036] X.sup.i represents a silylalkyl group which, when i=1, is
represented by formula (II):
##STR00002##
in which:
[0037] R.sup.1 is as defined above in formula (I),
[0038] R.sup.2 represents an alkylene radical containing from 2 to
10 carbon atoms,
[0039] R.sup.3 represents an alkyl group containing from 1 to 10
carbon atoms,
[0040] X.sup.i+i is chosen from: a hydrogen atom, an alkyl group
containing from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, an aryl group containing from
5 to 10 carbon atoms and a silylalkyl group defined above of
formula (II) with i=i+1,
[0041] i is an integer from 1 to 10 which represents the generation
of said silylalkyl group, and
[0042] a.sup.i is an integer from 0 to 3;
[0043] Y represents a radical-polymerizable organic group chosen
from:
[0044] organic groups containing a methacrylic group or an acrylic
group, said organic groups being represented by the formulae:
##STR00003##
in which:
[0045] R.sup.4 represents a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group
containing from 1 to 10 carbon atoms; and
[0046] R.sup.5 represents an alkylene group containing from 1 to 10
carbon atoms, such as a methylene group, an ethylene group, a
propylene group or a butylene group, methylene and propylene groups
being preferred; and
[0047] organic groups containing a styryl group of formula:
##STR00004##
in which:
[0048] R.sup.6 represents a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group
containing from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, such as a methyl group, an
ethyl group, a propyl group or a butyl group, the methyl group
being preferred;
[0049] R.sup.7 represents an alkyl group containing from 1 to 10
carbon atoms;
[0050] R.sup.8 represents an alkylene group containing from 1 to 10
carbon atoms, such as a methylene group, an ethylene group, a
propylene group or a butylene group, the ethylene group being
preferred;
[0051] b is an integer from 0 to 4; and
[0052] c is 0 or 1, such that, if c is 0, --(R.sup.8).sub.c--
represents a bond.
[0053] According to one embodiment, R.sup.1 may represent an aryl
group containing from 5 to 10 carbon atoms or an alkyl group
containing from 1 to 10 carbon atoms. The alkyl group may
preferably be represented by a methyl group, an ethyl group, a
propyl group, a butyl group, a pentyl group, an isopropyl group, an
isobutyl group, a cyclopentyl group or a cyclohexyl group. The aryl
group may preferably be represented by a phenyl group and a
naphthyl group. The methyl and phenyl groups are more particularly
preferred, and the methyl group is preferred among all.
[0054] According to one embodiment, R.sup.2 represents an alkylene
group containing from 2 to 10 carbon atoms, in particular a linear
alkylene group, such as an ethylene, propylene, butylene or
hexylene group; or a branched alkylene group, such as a
methylmethylene, methylethylene, 1-methylpentylene or
1,4-dimethylbutylene group. The ethylene, methylethylene, hexylene,
1-methylpentylene and 1,4-dimethylbutylene groups are preferred
among all.
[0055] According to one embodiment, R.sup.3 is chosen from methyl,
ethyl, propyl, butyl and isopropyl groups.
[0056] In formula (II), i indicates the number of generations and
thus corresponds to the number of repeats of the silylalkyl
group.
[0057] For example, when the generation number is equal to 1, the
carbosiloxane dendrimer may be represented by the general formula
shown below, in which Y, R.sup.1, R.sup.2 and R.sup.3 are as
defined above, R.sup.12 represents a hydrogen atom or is identical
to R.sup.1; a.sup.1 is identical to a.sup.i. Preferably, the total
average number of groups OR.sup.3 in a molecule is within the range
from 0 to 7.
##STR00005##
[0058] When the generation number is equal to 2, the carbosiloxane
dendrimer may be represented by the general formula below, in which
Y, R.sup.1, R.sup.2, R.sup.3 and R.sup.12 are the same as defined
above; a.sup.1 and a.sup.2 represent the a.sup.i of the indicated
generation. Preferably, the total average number of groups OR.sup.3
in a molecule is within the range from 0 to 25.
##STR00006##
[0059] When the generation number is equal to 3, the carbosiloxane
dendrimer is represented by the general formula below, in which Y,
R.sup.1, R.sup.2, R.sup.3 and R.sup.12 are the same as defined
above; a.sup.1, a.sup.2 and a.sup.3 represent the a.sup.i of the
indicated generation. Preferably, the total average number of
groups OR.sup.3 in a molecule is within the range from 0 to 79.
##STR00007##
[0060] A vinyl polymer bearing at least one carbosiloxane
dendrimer-based unit has a molecular side chain containing a
carbosiloxane dendrimer structure, and may be derived from the
polymerization of:
(A) from 0 to 99.9 parts by weight of a vinyl monomer; and (B) from
100 to 0.1 parts by weight of a carbosiloxane dendrimer containing
a radical-polymerizable organic group, represented by general
formula (I) as defined above.
[0061] The monomer of vinyl type that is the component (A) in the
vinyl polymer bearing at least one carbosiloxane dendrimer-based
unit is a monomer of vinyl type that contains a
radical-polymerizable vinyl group.
[0062] There is no particular limitation as regards such a
monomer.
[0063] The following are examples of this monomer of vinyl type:
methyl methacrylate, ethyl methacrylate, n-propyl methacrylate,
isopropyl methacrylate or a methacrylate of lower alkyl analogue;
glycidyl methacrylate; butyl methacrylate, butyl acrylate, n-butyl
methacrylate, isobutyl methacrylate, tert-butyl acrylate,
tert-butyl methacrylate, n-hexyl methacrylate, cyclohexyl
methacrylate, 2-ethylhexyl acrylate, 2-ethylhexyl methacrylate,
octyl methacrylate, lauryl methacrylate, stearyl acrylate, stearyl
methacrylate or a higher methacrylate analogue; vinyl acetate,
vinyl propionate or a vinyl ester of a lower fatty acid analogue;
vinyl caproate, vinyl 2-ethylhexoate, vinyl laurate, vinyl stearate
or a higher fatty acid ester analogue; styrene, vinyltoluene,
benzyl methacrylate, phenoxyethyl methacrylate, vinylpyrrolidone or
similar vinylaromatic monomers; methacrylamide,
N-methylolmethacrylamide, N-methoxymethyl methacrylamide,
isobutoxymethoxymethacrylamide, N,N-dimethylmethacrylamide or
similar monomers of vinyl type containing amide groups;
[0064] hydroxyethyl methacrylate, hydroxypropyl alcohol
methacrylate or similar monomers of vinyl type containing hydroxyl
groups; acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, itaconic acid, crotonic
acid, fumaric acid, maleic acid or similar monomers of vinyl type
containing a carboxylic acid group; tetrahydrofurfuryl
methacrylate, butoxyethyl methacrylate, ethoxydiethylene glycol
methacrylate, polyethylene glycol methacrylate, polypropylene
glycol monomethacrylate, hydroxybutyl vinyl ether, cetyl vinyl
ether, 2-ethylhexyl vinyl ether or a similar monomer of vinyl type
with ether bonds; methacryloxypropyltrimethoxysilane,
polydimethylsiloxane containing a methacrylic group on one of its
molecular ends, polydimethylsiloxane containing a styryl group on
one of its molecular ends, or a similar silicone compound
containing unsaturated groups; butadiene; vinyl chloride;
vinylidene chloride; methacrylonitrile; dibutyl fumarate; anhydrous
maleic acid; anhydrous succinic acid; methacryl glycidyl ether; an
organic salt of an amine, an ammonium salt, and an alkali metal
salt of methacrylic acid, of itaconic acid, of crotonic acid, of
maleic acid or of fumaric acid; a radical-polymerizable unsaturated
monomer containing a sulfonic acid group such as a styrenesulfonic
acid group; a quaternary ammonium salt derived from methacrylic
acid, such as 2-hydroxy-3-methacryloxypropyltrimethylammonium
chloride; and a methacrylic acid ester of an alcohol containing a
tertiary amine group, such as a methacrylic acid ester of
diethylamine.
[0065] Multifunctional monomers of vinyl type may also be used. The
following represent examples of such compounds: trimethylolpropane
trimethacrylate, pentaerythrityl trimethacrylate, ethylene glycol
dimethacrylate, tetraethylene glycol dimethacrylate, polyethylene
glycol dimethacrylate, 1,4-butanediol dimethacrylate,
1,6-hexanediol dimethacrylate, neopentyl glycol dimethacrylate,
trimethylolpropanetrioxyethyl methacrylate,
tris(2-hydroxyethyl)isocyanurate dimethacrylate,
tris(2-hydroxyethyl)isocyanurate trimethacrylate,
polydimethylsiloxane capped with styryl groups containing
divinylbenzene groups on both ends, or similar silicone compounds
containing unsaturated groups.
[0066] A carbosiloxane dendrimer, which is the component (B), may
be represented by formula (I) as defined above.
[0067] The following represent the preferred examples of group Y of
formula (I): an acryloxymethyl group, a 3-acryloxypropyl group, a
methacryloxymethyl group, a 3-methacryloxypropyl group, a
4-vinylphenyl group, a 3-vinylphenyl group, a 4-(2-propenyl)phenyl
group, a 3-(2-propenyl)phenyl group, a 2-(4-vinylphenyl)ethyl
group, a 2-(3-vinylphenyl)ethyl group, a vinyl group, an allyl
group, a methallyl group and a 5-hexenyl group.
[0068] A carbosiloxane dendrimer according to the present invention
may be represented by the formulae having the average structures
below:
##STR00008## ##STR00009##
[0069] Thus, according to one embodiment, the carbosiloxane
dendrimer of the composition according to the present invention is
represented by the following formula:
##STR00010##
in which:
[0070] Y, R.sup.1, R.sup.2 and R.sup.3 are as defined in formulae
(I) and (II) above;
[0071] a.sup.1, a.sup.2 and a.sup.3 correspond to the definition of
a.sup.i according to formula (II); and
[0072] R.sup.12 is H, an aryl group containing from 5 to 10 carbon
atoms or an alkyl group containing from 1 to 10 carbon atoms.
[0073] According to one embodiment, the carbosiloxane dendrimer of
the composition according to the present invention is represented
by one of the following formulae:
##STR00011##
[0074] The vinyl polymer comprising the carbosiloxane dendrimer
according to the invention may be manufactured according to the
process for manufacturing a branched silalkylene siloxane described
in Japanese patent application Hei 9-171 154.
[0075] For example, it may be produced by subjecting an
organosilicon compound containing a hydrogen atom linked to a
silicon atom, represented by the following general formula
(IV):
##STR00012##
Y and R.sup.1 being as defined above in formula (I), and an
organosilicon compound containing an alkenyl group, to a
hydrosilylation reaction.
[0076] In the above formula, the organosilicon compound may be
represented by 3-methacryloxypropyltris(dimethylsiloxy)silane,
3-acryloxypropyltris(dimethylsiloxy)silane and
4-vinylphenyltris(dimethylsiloxy)silane. The organosilicon compound
that contains an alkenyl group may be represented by
vinyltris(trimethylsiloxy)silane,
vinyltris(dimethyl-phenylsiloxy)silane, and
5-hexenyltris(trimethylsiloxy)silane.
[0077] The hydrosilylation reaction is performed in the presence of
a chloroplatinic acid, a complex of vinylsiloxane and of platinum,
or a similar transition metal catalyst.
[0078] A vinyl polymer bearing at least one carbosiloxane
dendrimer-based unit may be chosen from polymers such that the
carbosiloxane dendrimer-based unit is a carbosiloxane dendritic
structure represented by formula (III):
##STR00013##
in which
[0079] Z is a divalent organic group,
[0080] p is 0 or 1,
[0081] R.sup.1 is as defined above in formula (IV) and
[0082] X.sup.i is a silylalkyl group represented by formula (II) as
defined above.
[0083] In a vinyl polymer bearing at least one carbosiloxane
dendrimer-based unit, the polymerization ratio between the
components (A) and (B), in terms of the weight ratio between (A)
and (B), is within a range from 0/100 to 99.9/0.1, or even from
0.1/99.9 to 99.9/0.1 and preferably within a range from 1/99 to
99/1. A ratio between the components (A) and (B) of 0/100 means
that the compound becomes a homopolymer of component (B).
[0084] A vinyl polymer bearing at least one carbosiloxane
dendrimer-based unit may be obtained by copolymerization of the
components (A) and (B), or by polymerization of the component (B)
alone.
[0085] The polymerization may be a free-radical polymerization or
an ionic polymerization, but free-radical polymerization is
preferred.
[0086] The polymerization may be performed by bringing about a
reaction between the components (A) and (B) in a solution for a
period of from 3 to 20 hours in the presence of a radical initiator
at a temperature of from 50.degree. C. to 150.degree. C.
[0087] A suitable solvent for this purpose is hexane, octane,
decane, cyclohexane or a similar aliphatic hydrocarbon; benzene,
toluene, xylene or a similar aromatic hydrocarbon; diethyl ether,
dibutyl ether, tetrahydrofuran, dioxane or ethers; acetone, methyl
ethyl ketone, methyl isobutyl ketone, diisobutyl ketone or similar
ketones; methyl acetate, ethyl acetate, butyl acetate, isobutyl
acetate or similar esters; methanol, ethanol, isopropanol, butanol
or similar alcohols; octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane,
decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, hexamethyldisiloxane,
octamethyltrisiloxane or a similar organosiloxane oligomer.
[0088] A radical initiator may be any compound known in the art for
standard free-radical polymerization reactions. The specific
examples of such radical initiators are
2,2'-azobis(isobutyronitrile), 2,2'-azobis(2-methylbutyronitrile),
2,2'-azobis(2,4-dimethylvaleronitrile) or similar compounds of
azobis type; benzoyl peroxide, lauroyl peroxide, tert-butyl
peroxybenzoate, tert-butyl peroxy-2-ethylhexanoate or a similar
organic peroxide. These radical initiators may be used alone or in
a combination of two or more. The radical initiators may be used in
an amount of from 0.1 to 5 parts by weight per 100 parts by weight
of the components (A) and (B). A chain-transfer agent may be added.
The chain-transfer agent may be 2-mercaptoethanol, butyl mercaptan,
n-dodecyl mercaptan, 3-mercaptopropyltrimethoxysilane, a
polydimethylsiloxane containing a mercaptopropyl group or a similar
compound of mercapto type; methylene chloride, chloroform, carbon
tetrachloride, butyl bromide, 3-chloropropyltrimethoxysilane or a
similar halogenated compound.
[0089] In the manufacture of the polymer of vinyl type, after the
polymerization, the unreacted residual vinyl monomer may be removed
under conditions of heating under vacuum.
[0090] To facilitate the preparation of starting material for
cosmetic products, the number-average molecular weight of the vinyl
polymer bearing a carbosiloxane dendrimer may be chosen within the
range between 3000 and 2000000 and preferably between 5000 and
800000. It may be a liquid, a gum, a paste, a solid, a powder, or
any other form. The preferred forms are solutions consisting of the
dilution of a dispersion or of a powder in solvents.
[0091] The vinyl polymer may be a dispersion of a polymer of vinyl
type bearing a carbosiloxane dendrimer structure in its side
molecular chain, in a liquid such as a silicone oil, an organic
oil, an alcohol or water.
[0092] The silicone oil may be a dimethylpolysiloxane having the
two molecular ends capped with trimethylsiloxy groups, a copolymer
of methylphenylsiloxane and of dimethylsiloxane having the two
molecular ends capped with trimethylsiloxy groups, a copolymer of
methyl-3,3,3-trifluoropropylsiloxane and of dimethylsiloxane having
the two molecular ends capped with trimethylsiloxy groups, or
similar unreactive linear silicone oils, and also
hexamethylcyclotrisiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane,
decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane or a
similar cyclic compound. In addition to the unreactive silicone
oils, modified polysiloxanes containing functional groups such as
silanol groups, amino groups and polyether groups on the ends or
within the molecular side chains may be used.
[0093] The organic oils may be isododecane, liquid paraffin,
isoparaffin, hexyl laurate, isopropyl myristate, myristyl
myristate, cetyl myristate, 2-octyldodecyl myristate; isopropyl
palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, butyl stearate, decyl oleate,
2-octyldodecyl oleate, myristyl lactate, cetyl lactate, lanolin
acetate, stearyl alcohol, cetostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol,
avocado oil, almond oil, olive oil, cocoa oil, jojoba oil, gum oil,
sunflower oil, soybean oil, camelia oil, squalane, castor oil,
cottonseed oil, coconut oil, egg yolk oil, polypropylene glycol
monooleate, neopentyl glycol 2-ethylhexanoate or a similar glycol
ester oil; triglyceryl isostearate, the triglyceride of a fatty
acid of coconut oil, or a similar oil of a polyhydric alcohol
ester; polyoxyethylene lauryl ether, polyoxypropylene cetyl ether
or a similar polyoxyalkylene ether.
[0094] The alcohol may be any type that is suitable for use in
combination with a cosmetic product starting material. For example,
it may be methanol, ethanol, butanol, isopropanol or similar lower
alcohols.
[0095] A solution or a dispersion of the alcohol should have a
viscosity within the range from 10 to 10.sup.9 mPa at 25.degree. C.
To improve the sensory use properties in a cosmetic product, the
viscosity should be within the range from 100 to 5.times.10.sup.8
mPas.
[0096] The solutions and dispersions may be readily prepared by
mixing a vinyl polymer bearing at least one carbosiloxane
dendrimer-based unit with a silicone oil, an organic oil, an
alcohol or water. The liquids may be present in the polymerization
step. In this case, the unreacted residual vinyl monomer should be
completely removed by heat treatment of the solution or dispersion
under atmospheric pressure or reduced pressure.
[0097] In the case of a dispersion, the dispersity of the polymer
of vinyl type may be improved by adding a surfactant.
[0098] Such an agent may be hexylbenzenesulfonic acid,
octylbenzenesulfonic acid, decylbenzenesulfonic acid,
dodecylbenzenesulfonic acid, cetylbenzenesulfonic acid,
myristylbenzenesulfonic acid or anionic surfactants of the sodium
salts of these acids; octyltrimethylammonium hydroxide,
dodecyltrimethylammonium hydroxide, hexadecyltrimethylammonium
hydroxide, octyldimethylbenzylammonium hydroxide,
decyldimethylbenzylammonium hydroxide, dioctadecyldimethylammonium
hydroxide, beef tallow-trimethylammonium hydroxide, coconut
oil-trimethylammonium hydroxide, or a similar cationic surfactant;
a polyoxyalkylene alkyl ether, a polyoxyalkylenealkylphenol, a
polyoxyalkylene alkyl ester, the sorbitol ester of polyoxyalkylene,
polyethylene glycol, polypropylene glycol, an ethylene oxide
additive of diethylene glycol trimethylnonanol, and nonionic
surfactants of polyester type, and also mixtures.
[0099] In the dispersion, a mean particle diameter of the polymer
of vinyl type may be within a range of between 0.001 and 100
microns and preferably between 0.01 and 50 microns. The reason for
this is that, outside the recommended range, a cosmetic product
mixed with the emulsion will not have a nice enough feel on the
lips or to the touch, nor sufficient spreading properties nor a
pleasant feel.
[0100] A vinyl polymer contained in the dispersion or the solution
may have a concentration within a range of between 0.1% and 95% by
weight and preferably between 5% and 85% by weight. However, to
facilitate the handling and the preparation of the mixture, the
range should preferably be between 10% and 75% by weight.
[0101] A vinyl polymer that is suitable for use in the invention
may also be one of the polymers described in the examples of patent
application EP 0 963 751.
[0102] According to one preferred embodiment, a vinyl polymer
grafted with a carbosiloxane dendrimer may be the product of
polymerization of:
(A1) from 0 to 99.9 part by weight of one or more acrylate or
methacrylate monomers; and (B1) from 100 to 0.1 part by weight of
an acrylate or methacrylate monomer of a
tris[tri(trimethylsiloxy)silylethyldimethylsiloxy]silylpropyl
carbosiloxane dendrimer.
[0103] The monomers (A1) and (B1) correspond respectively to
specific monomers (A) and (B).
[0104] According to one embodiment, a vinyl polymer bearing at
least one carbosiloxane dendrimer-based unit may comprise a
tris[tri(trimethylsiloxy)silylethyldimethylsiloxy]silylpropyl
carbosiloxane dendrimer-based unit corresponding to one of the
formulae:
##STR00014##
[0105] According to one preferred mode, a vinyl polymer bearing at
least one carbosiloxane dendrimer-based unit used in the invention
comprises at least one butyl acrylate monomer.
[0106] According to one embodiment, a vinyl polymer may also
comprise at least one fluoro organic group.
[0107] Structures in which the polymerized vinyl units constitute
the backbone and carbosiloxane dendritic structures and also fluoro
organic groups are attached to side chains are particularly
preferred.
[0108] The fluoro organic groups may be obtained by replacing with
fluorine atoms all or some of the hydrogen atoms of methyl, ethyl,
propyl, isopropyl, butyl, isobutyl, tert-butyl, pentyl, neopentyl,
hexyl, cyclohexyl, heptyl, octyl, nonyl, decyl, undecyl, dodecyl,
tridecyl, tetradecyl, hexadecyl and octadecyl groups and other
alkyl groups of 1 to 20 carbon atoms, and also alkyloxyalkylene
groups of 6 to 22 carbon atoms.
[0109] The groups represented by the formula
--(CH.sub.2).sub.x--(CF.sub.2).sub.y--R.sup.13 are suggested as
examples of fluoroalkyl groups obtained by substituting fluorine
atoms for hydrogen atoms of alkyl groups. In the formula, the index
"x" is 0, 1, 2 or 3, and "y" is an integer from 1 to 20. R.sup.13
is an atom or a group chosen from a hydrogen atom, a fluorine atom,
--CH(CF.sub.3).sub.2-- or CF(CF.sub.3).sub.2. Such
fluorine-substituted alkyl groups are exemplified by linear or
branched polyfluoroalkyl or perfluoroalkyl groups represented by
the formulae shown below:
--CF.sub.3, --C.sub.2F.sub.5, -nC.sub.3F.sub.7,
--CF(CF.sub.3).sub.2, -nC.sub.4F.sub.9, CF.sub.2CF(CF.sub.3).sub.2,
-nC.sub.5F.sub.11, -nC.sub.6F.sub.13, -nC.sub.8F.sub.17,
CH.sub.2CF.sub.3, --(CH(CF.sub.3).sub.2,
CH.sub.2CH(CF.sub.3).sub.2--CH.sub.2(CF.sub.2).sub.2F,
--CH.sub.2(CF.sub.2).sub.3F, --CH.sub.2(CF.sub.2).sub.4F,
CH.sub.2(CF.sub.2).sub.6F, CH.sub.2(CF.sub.2).sub.8F,
--CH.sub.2CH.sub.2CF.sub.3, --CH.sub.2CH.sub.2(CF.sub.2).sub.2F,
--CH.sub.2CH.sub.2(CF.sub.2).sub.3F,
--CH.sub.2CH.sub.2(CF.sub.2).sub.4F,
--CH.sub.2CH.sub.2(CF.sub.2).sub.6F,
--CH.sub.2CH.sub.2(CF.sub.2).sub.8F,
--CH.sub.2CH.sub.2(CF.sub.2).sub.10F,
--CH.sub.2CH.sub.2(CF.sub.2).sub.12F,
CH.sub.2CH.sub.2(CF.sub.2).sub.14F,
--CH.sub.2CH.sub.2(CF.sub.2).sub.16F,
--CH.sub.2CH.sub.2CH.sub.2CF.sub.3,
--CH.sub.2CH.sub.2CH.sub.2(CF.sub.2).sub.2F,
--CH.sub.2CH.sub.2CH.sub.2(CF.sub.2).sub.2H,
--CH.sub.2(CF.sub.2).sub.4H and
--CH.sub.2CH.sub.2(CF.sub.2).sub.3H.
[0110] The groups represented by
--CH.sub.2CH.sub.2--(CF.sub.2).sub.m--CFR.sup.14--[OCF.sub.2CF(CF.sub.3)]-
.sub.n--OC.sub.3F.sub.7 are suggested as
fluoroalkyloxyfluoroalkylene groups obtained by substituting
fluorine atoms for hydrogen atoms of alkyloxyalkylene groups. In
the formula, the index "m" is 0 or 1, "n" is 0, 1, 2, 3, 4 or 5,
and R.sup.14 is a fluorine atom or CF.sub.3. Such
fluoroalkyloxyfluoroalkylene groups are exemplified by the
perfluoroalkyloxyfluoroalkylene groups represented by the formulae
shown below:
--CH.sub.2CH.sub.2CF(CF.sub.3)--[OCF.sub.2CF(CF.sub.3)].sub.n--OC.-
sub.3F.sub.7,
--CH.sub.2CH.sub.2CF.sub.2CF.sub.2--[OCF.sub.2CF(CF.sub.3)].sub.n--OC.sub-
.3F.sub.7.
[0111] The number-average molecular weight of the vinyl polymer
used in the present invention may be between 3000 and 2000000 and
more preferably between 5000 and 800000.
[0112] This type of fluorinated vinyl polymer may be obtained by
addition:
[0113] of a vinyl monomer (M2) without a fluoro organic group,
[0114] on a vinyl monomer (M1) containing fluoro organic groups,
and
[0115] a carbosiloxane dendrimer (B) as defined above, of general
formula (I) as defined above, by subjecting them to a
copolymerization.
[0116] Thus, according to one embodiment, a composition of the
invention may comprise a vinyl polymer bearing at least one
carbosiloxane dendrimer-based unit and being derived from the
copolymerization of a vinyl monomer (M1) as defined above,
optionally of a vinyl monomer (M2) as defined above, and of a
carbosiloxane dendrimer (B) as defined above, said vinyl polymer
having a copolymerization ratio between the monomer (M1) and the
monomer (M2) of from 0.1% to 100%/99.9% to 0% by weight, and a
copolymerization ratio between the sum of the monomers (M1) and
(M2) and the monomer (B) of from 0.1% to 99.9%/99.9% to 0.1% by
weight.
[0117] The vinyl monomers (M1) containing fluoro organic groups in
the molecule are preferably monomers represented by the general
formula:
(CH.sup.2).dbd.CR.sup.15COOR.sup.f.
[0118] In this formula, R.sup.15 is a hydrogen atom or a methyl
group and R.sup.1 is a fluoro organic group exemplified by the
fluoroalkyl and fluoroalkyloxyfluoroalkylene groups described
above. The compounds represented by the formulae presented below
are suggested as specific examples of the component (M1). In the
formulae present below, "z" is an integer from 1 to 4.
CH.sub.2.dbd.CCH.sub.3COO--CF.sub.3,
CH.sub.2.dbd.CCH.sub.3COO--C.sub.2F.sub.5,
CH.sub.2.dbd.CCH.sub.3COO-nC.sub.3F.sub.7,
CH.sub.2.dbd.CCH.sub.3COO--CF(CF.sub.3).sub.2,
CH.sub.2.dbd.CCH.sub.3COO-nC.sub.4F.sub.9,
CH.sub.2.dbd.CCH.sub.3COO--CF(CF.sub.3).sub.2,
CH.sub.2.dbd.CCH.sub.3COO-nC.sub.5F.sub.11,
CH.sub.2.dbd.CCH.sub.3COO-nC.sub.6F.sub.13,
CH.sub.2.dbd.CCH.sub.3COO-nC.sub.8F.sub.17,
CH.sub.2.dbd.CCH.sub.3COO--CH.sub.2CF.sub.3,
CH.sub.2.dbd.CCH.sub.3COO--CH(CF.sub.3).sub.2,
CH.sub.2.dbd.CCH.sub.3COO--CH.sub.2CH(CF.sub.3).sub.2,
CH.sub.2.dbd.CCH.sub.3COO--CH.sub.2 (CF.sub.2).sub.2F,
CH.sub.2.dbd.CCH.sub.3COO--CH.sub.2(CF.sub.2).sub.2F,
CH.sub.2.dbd.CCH.sub.3COO--CH.sub.2(CF.sub.2).sub.4F,
CH.sub.2.dbd.CCH.sub.3COO--CH.sub.2(CF.sub.2).sub.6F,
CH.sub.2.dbd.CCH.sub.3COO--CH.sub.2(CF.sub.2).sub.8F,
CH.sub.2.dbd.CCH.sub.3COO--CH.sub.2CH.sub.2CF.sub.3,
CH.sub.2.dbd.CCH.sub.3COO--CH.sub.2CH.sub.2(CF.sub.2).sub.2F,
CH.sub.2.dbd.CCH.sub.3COO--CH.sub.2CH.sub.2(CF.sub.2).sub.3F,
CH.sub.2.dbd.CCH.sub.3COO--CH.sub.2CH.sub.2(CF.sub.2).sub.4F,
CH.sub.2.dbd.CCH.sub.3COO--CH.sub.2CH.sub.2(CF.sub.2).sub.6F,
CH.sub.2.dbd.CCH.sub.3COO--CH.sub.2CH.sub.2(CF.sub.2).sub.8F,
CH.sub.2.dbd.CCH.sub.3COO--CH.sub.2CH.sub.2(CF.sub.2).sub.10F,
CH.sub.2.dbd.CCH.sub.3COO--CH.sub.2CH.sub.2(CF.sub.2).sub.12F,
CH.sub.2.dbd.CCH.sub.3COO--CH.sub.2CH.sub.2(CF.sub.2).sub.14F,
CH.sub.2.dbd.CCH.sub.3COO--CH.sub.2--CH.sub.2--(CF.sub.2).sub.16F,
CH.sub.2.dbd.CCH.sub.3COO--CH.sub.2CH.sub.2CH.sub.2CF.sub.3,
CH.sub.2.dbd.CCH.sub.3COO--CH.sub.2CH.sub.2CH.sub.2(CF.sub.2).sub.2F,
CH.sub.2.dbd.CCH.sub.3COO--CH.sub.2CH.sub.2CH.sub.2(CF.sub.2).sub.2H,
CH.sub.2.dbd.CCH.sub.3COO--CH.sub.2 (CF.sub.2).sub.4H,
CH.sub.2.dbd.CCH.sub.3COO--(CF.sub.2).sub.3H,
CH.sub.2.dbd.CCH.sub.3COO--CH.sub.2CH.sub.2CF(CF.sub.3)--[OCF.sub.2--CF(C-
F.sub.3)]z-OC.sub.3F.sub.7,
CH.sub.2.dbd.CCH.sub.3COO--CH.sub.2CH.sub.2CF.sub.2CF.sub.2--[OCF.sub.2---
CF(CF.sub.3)]z-OC.sub.3F.sub.7, CH.sub.2.dbd.CHCOO--CF.sub.3,
CH.sub.2.dbd.CHCOO--C.sub.2F.sub.5,
CH.sub.2.dbd.CHCOO-nC.sub.3F.sub.7,
CH.sub.2.dbd.CHCOO--CF(CF.sub.3).sub.2,
CH.sub.2.dbd.CHCOO-nC.sub.4F.sub.9,
CH.sub.2.dbd.CHCOO--CF.sub.2CF(CF.sub.3).sub.2,
CH.sub.2.dbd.CHCOO-nC.sub.5F.sub.11,
CH.sub.2.dbd.CHCOO-nC.sub.6F.sub.13,
CH.sub.2.dbd.CHCOO-nC.sub.8F.sub.17,
CH.sub.2.dbd.CHCOO--CH.sub.2CF.sub.3,
CH.sub.2.dbd.CHCOO--CH(CF.sub.3).sub.2,
CH.sub.2.dbd.CHCOO--CH.sub.2CH(CF.sub.3).sub.2,
CH.sub.2.dbd.CHCOO--CH.sub.2(CF.sub.2).sub.2F,
CH.sub.2.dbd.CHCOO--CH.sub.2(CF.sub.2).sub.3F,
CH.sub.2.dbd.CHCOO--CH.sub.2(CF.sub.2).sub.4F,
CH.sub.2.dbd.CHCOO--CH.sub.2(CF.sub.2).sub.6F,
CH.sub.2.dbd.CHCOO--CH.sub.2(CF.sub.2).sub.8F,
CH.sub.2.dbd.CHCOO--CH.sub.2CH.sub.2CF.sub.3,
CH.sub.2.dbd.CHCOO--CH.sub.2CH.sub.2 (CF.sub.2).sub.2F,
CH.sub.2.dbd.CHCOO--CH.sub.2CH.sub.2(CF.sub.2).sub.3F,
CH.sub.2.dbd.CHCOO--CH.sub.2CH.sub.2(CF.sub.2).sub.4F,
CH.sub.2.dbd.CHCOO--CH.sub.2CH.sub.2(CF.sub.2).sub.6F,
CH.sub.2.dbd.CHCOO--CH.sub.2CH.sub.2(CF.sub.2).sub.8F,
CH.sub.2.dbd.HCOO--CH.sub.2CH.sub.2(CF.sub.2).sub.10F,
CH.sub.2--CHCOO--CH.sub.2CH.sub.2--(CF.sub.2).sub.12F,
CH.sub.2.dbd.CHCOO--CH.sub.2CH.sub.2(CF.sub.2).sub.14F,
CH.sub.2.dbd.CHCOO--CH.sub.2CH.sub.2(CF.sub.2).sub.16F,
CH.sub.2.dbd.CHCOO--CH.sub.2CH.sub.2CH.sub.2CF.sub.3,
CH.sub.2.dbd.CHCOO--CH.sub.2CH.sub.2CH.sub.2(CF.sub.2).sub.2F,
CH.sub.2.dbd.CHCOO--CH.sub.2CH.sub.2CH.sub.2(CF).sub.2H,
CH.sub.2.dbd.CHCOO--CH.sub.2(CF.sub.2).sub.4H,
CH.sub.2.dbd.CHCOO--CH.sub.2CH.sub.2(CF.sub.2).sub.3H,
CH.sub.2.dbd.CHCOO--CH.sub.2CH.sub.2CF(CF.sub.3)--,
[OCF.sub.2--CF(CF.sub.3)]z-OC.sub.3F.sub.7,
CH.sub.2.dbd.CHCOO--CH.sub.2CH.sub.2CF.sub.2CF.sub.2(CF.sub.3)--[OCF.sub.-
2--CF(CF.sub.3)].sub.2--OC.sub.3F.sub.7. Among these, the vinyl
polymers represented below are preferred:
CH.sub.2.dbd.CHCOO--CH.sub.2CH.sub.2(CF.sub.2).sub.6F,
CH.sub.2.dbd.CHCOO--CH.sub.2CH.sub.2(CF.sub.2).sub.8F,
CH.sub.2.dbd.CCH.sub.3COO--CH.sub.2CH.sub.2(CF.sub.2).sub.6F,
CH.sub.2.dbd.CCH.sub.3COO--CH.sub.2CH.sub.2(CF.sub.2).sub.8F,
CH.sub.2.dbd.CHCOO--CH.sub.2CF.sub.3,
CH.sub.2.dbd.CCH.sub.3COO--CH.sub.2CF.sub.3.
[0119] The vinyl polymers represented by the formulae presented
below are particularly preferred:
CH.sub.2.dbd.CHCOO--CH.sub.2CF.sub.3,
CH.sub.2.dbd.CCHCOO--CH.sub.2CF.sub.3.
[0120] The vinyl monomers (M2) not containing any fluoro organic
groups in the molecule may be any monomers containing
radical-polymerizable vinyl groups which are exemplified, for
example, by methyl acrylate, methyl methacrylate, ethyl acrylate,
ethyl methacrylate, n-propyl acrylate, n-propyl methacrylate,
isopropyl acrylate, isopropyl methacrylate, and other lower alkyl
acrylates or methacrylates; glycidyl acrylate, glycidyl
methacrylate; n-butyl acrylate, n-butyl methacrylate, isobutyl
acrylate, isobutyl methacrylate, tert-butyl acrylate, tert-butyl
methacrylate, n-hexyl acrylate, n-hexyl methacrylate, cyclohexyl
acrylate, cyclohexyl methacrylate, 2-ethylhexyl acrylate,
2-ethylhexyl methacrylate, octyl acrylate, octyl methacrylate,
lauryl acrylate, lauryl methacrylate, stearyl acrylate, stearyl
methacrylate, and other higher acrylates and methacrylates; vinyl
acetate, vinyl propionate and other lower fatty acid vinyl esters;
vinyl butyrate, vinyl caproate, vinyl 2-ethylhexanoate, vinyl
laurate, vinyl stearate, and other higher fatty acid esters;
styrene, vinyltoluene, benzyl acrylate, benzyl methacrylate,
phenoxyethyl acrylate, phenoxyethyl methacrylate, vinylpyrrolidone,
and other vinyl aromatic monomers; dimethylaminoethyl acrylate,
dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate, diethylaminoethyl acrylate,
diethylaminoethyl methacrylate, and other aminovinyl monomers,
acrylamide, methacrylamide, N-methylolacrylamide,
N-methylolmethacrylamide, N-methoxymethylacrylamide,
N-methoxymethylmethacrylamide, isobutoxymethoxyacrylamide,
isobutoxymethoxymethacrylamide, N,N-dimethylacrylamide,
N,N-dimethylmethacrylamide, and other vinylamide monomers;
hydroxyethyl acrylate, hydroxyethyl methacrylate, acrylic acid
hydroxypropyl alcohol, methacrylic acid hydroxypropyl alcohol, and
other hydroxyvinyl monomers; acrylic acid, methacrylic acid,
itaconic acid, crotonic acid, fumaric acid, maleic acid, and other
vinylcarboxylic acid monomers; tetrahydrofurfuryl acrylate,
tetrahydrofurfuryl methacrylate, butoxyethyl acrylate, butoxyethyl
methacrylate, ethoxydiethylene glycol acrylate, ethoxydiethylene
glycol methacrylate, polyethylene glycol acrylate, polyethylene
glycol methacrylate, polypropylene glycol monoacrylate,
polypropylene glycol monomethacrylate, hydroxybutyl vinyl ether,
cetyl vinyl ether, 2-ethylhexyl vinyl ether, and other vinyl
monomers containing ether bonds; acryloxypropyltrimethoxysilane,
methacryloxypropyltrimethoxysilane, polydimethylsiloxanes
containing acryl or methacryl groups at one of the ends,
polydimethylsiloxanes containing alkenylaryl groups at one of the
ends and other silicone compounds containing unsaturated groups;
butadiene; vinyl chloride; vinylidene chloride, acrylonitrile,
methacrylonitrile; dibutyl fumarate; maleic anhydride;
dodecylsuccinic anhydride; acryl glycidyl ether, methacryl glycidyl
ether, 3,4-epoxycyclohexylmethyl acrylate,
3,4-epoxycyclohexylmethyl methacrylate, alkali metal salts,
ammonium salts and organic amine salts of acrylic acid, of
methacrylic acid, of itaconic acid, of crotonic acid, of fumaric
acid, of maleic acid and of other radical-polymerizable unsaturated
carboxylic acids, radical-polymerizable unsaturated monomers
containing sulfonic acid groups, such as styrene sulfonic acid and
also the alkali metal salts thereof, the ammonium salts thereof and
the organic amine salts thereof; the quaternary ammonium salts
derived from acrylic acid or methacrylic acid, such as
2-hydroxy-3-methacryloxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride,
methacrylic acid esters of a tertiary amine alcohol, such as the
diethylamine ester of methacrylic acid and quaternary ammonium
salts thereof.
[0121] In addition, it is also possible to use as vinyl monomers
(M2) the polyfunctional vinyl monomers illustrated, for example, by
trimethylolpropane triacrylate, trimethylolpropane trimethacrylate,
pentaerythrityl triacrylate, pentaerythrityl trimethacrylate,
ethylene glycol diacrylate, ethylene glycol dimethacrylate,
tetraethylene glycol diacrylate, tetraethylene glycol
dimethacrylate, polyethylene glycol diacrylate, polyethylene glycol
dimethacrylate, 1,4-butanediol diacrylate, 1,4-butanediol
dimethacrylate, 1,6-hexanediol diacrylate, 1,6-hexanediol
dimethacrylate, neopentyl glycol diacrylate, neopentyl glycol
dimethacrylate, trimethylolpropanetrioxyethyl acrylate,
trimethylolpropanetrioxyethyl methacrylate,
tris(2-hydroxyethyl)isocyanurate diacrylate,
tris(2-hydroxyethyl)isocyanurate dimethacrylate,
tris(2-hydroxyethyl)isocyanurate triacrylate,
tris(2-hydroxyethyl)isocyanurate trimethacrylate,
polydimethylsiloxane in which the two ends of the molecular chain
are blocked with alkenylaryl groups, and other silicone compounds
containing unsaturated groups.
[0122] As regards the ratio mentioned above in which (M1) and (M2)
are copolymerized, the weight ratio between (M1) and (M2) is
preferably within the range 1:99 to 100:0.
[0123] Y can be chosen, for example, from organic groups containing
acrylic or methacrylic groups, organic groups containing an
alkenylaryl group, or alkenyl groups containing from 2 to 10 carbon
atoms.
[0124] The organic groups containing acrylic or methacrylic groups
and the alkenylaryl groups are as defined above.
[0125] Among the compounds (B), mention may, for example, be made
of the following compounds:
##STR00015##
[0126] The carbosiloxane dendrimers (B) may be prepared using the
process for preparing siloxane/silalkylene branched copolymers
described in document EP 1 055 674.
[0127] For example, they may be prepared by subjecting organic
alkenyl silicone compounds and silicone compounds comprising
hydrogen atoms bonded to the silicon, represented by formula (IV)
as defined above, to a hydrosilylation reaction.
[0128] The copolymerization ratio (by weight) between the monomer
(B) and the monomers (M1) and (M2) is preferably within the range
of 1:99 to 99:1 and even more preferably within the range of 5:95
to 95:5.
[0129] Amino groups may be introduced into the side chains of the
vinyl polymer by using, included in component (M2), vinyl monomers
containing amino groups, such as dimethylaminoethyl acrylate,
dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate, diethylaminoethyl acrylate and
diethylaminoethyl methacrylate, followed by performing a
modification with potassium acetate monochloride, ammonium acetate
monochloride, the aminomethylpropanol salt of monochloroacetic
acid, the triethanolamine salt of monobromoacetic acid, sodium
monochloropropionate, and other alkali metal salts of halogenated
fatty acids.
[0130] Alternatively, carboxylic acid groups may be introduced into
the side chains of the vinyl polymer by using, included in
component (M2), vinyl monomers containing carboxylic acids, such as
acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, itaconic acid, crotonic acid,
fumaric acid and maleic acid, and the like, followed by
neutralizing the product with triethylamine, diethylamine,
triethanolamine and other amines.
[0131] A fluorinated vinyl polymer may be one of the polymers
described in the examples of patent application WO 03/045 337.
[0132] According to one preferred embodiment, a vinyl polymer
grafted in the sense of the present invention may be conveyed in an
oil or a mixture of oils, which is/are preferably volatile, chosen
in particular from silicone oils and hydrocarbon-based oils, and
mixtures thereof.
[0133] According to one particular embodiment, a silicone oil that
is suitable for use in the invention may be cyclopentasiloxane.
[0134] According to another particular embodiment, a
hydrocarbon-based oil that is suitable for use in the invention may
be isododecane.
[0135] Vinyl polymers grafted with at least one carbosiloxane
dendrimer-based unit that may be particularly suitable for use in
the present invention are the polymers sold under the names TIB
4-100, TIB 4-101, TIB 4-120, TIB 4-130, TIB 4-200, FA 4002 ID (TIB
4-202), TIB 4-220 and FA 4001 CM (TIB 4-230) by the company Dow
Corning.
[0136] According to one embodiment, the composition according to
the present invention comprises at least one vinyl polymer bearing
at least one carbosiloxane dendrimer-based unit in an active
material content ranging from 0.5% to 20% by weight, in particular
from 1% to 15% by weight, more particularly from 1.5% to 10% by
weight and preferably from 3% to 5% by weight, relative to the
total weight of the composition.
Non-Volatile Oil
[0137] The composition according to the invention also comprises at
least one non-volatile oil. The term "non-volatile oil" means an
oil whose vapour pressure at 25.degree. C. and atmospheric pressure
is non-zero and is less than 0.02 mmHg (2.66 Pa) and better still
less than 10.sup.-3 mmHg (0.13 Pa).
[0138] As indicated previously, the composition comprises at least
one non-volatile oil in a content of at least 2% by weight,
preferably ranging from 2% to 30% by weight, more particularly from
3% to 30% by weight, in particular from 3% to 15% by weight, and
preferably between 4% and 15% by weight relative to the weight of
the composition.
[0139] According to one embodiment, the composition comprises at
least one non-volatile oil in a content of at least 5% by weight,
preferably ranging from 10% to 70% by weight and in particular from
25% to 60% by weight relative to the total weight of volatile and
non-volatile oil(s) present in said composition.
[0140] In accordance with a particularly advantageous embodiment,
at least one of the non-volatile oils is compatible with the
film-forming polymer, where appropriate conveyed in an oil or a
mixture of oils, which are preferably volatile, used in the
composition according to the invention. This especially enables to
further improve the stability of the composition.
[0141] To check this compatibility, several mixtures of the
non-volatile oil to be tested were made with the film-forming
polymer, where appropriate conveyed in at least one oil, preferably
a volatile oil: 30/70; 50/50; 70/30 (the ratios being expressed by
weight, each mixture representing 10 g).
[0142] Each mixture is prepared at 25.degree. C. with stirring
(magnetic bar) for one hour.
[0143] If the resulting mixture appears to be one-phase, this
mixture is observed with a phase-contrast microscope. If there is
no sign of one phase dispersed in the other, then said non-volatile
oil and the film-forming polymer in its vehicle (if present) are
said to be compatible in the evaluated mixture.
[0144] Non-volatile oils that are compatible in all the tested
mixtures are more particularly suitable for use. Use may also be
made of non-volatile oils that are compatible for some of the
tested mixtures, if these oils are used in the composition in a
content in which they are compatible. If necessary, on the basis of
the results obtained previously, one or more tests may be repeated
to check the compatibility at the envisaged content.
[0145] Preferably, use is made of at least one non-volatile oil
that is compatible with the film-forming polymer/vehicle if
present, for the three mixtures described previously.
[0146] The non-volatile oil(s) may be chosen from polar or apolar
hydrocarbon-based oils, silicone oils and fluoro oils, and mixtures
thereof.
Polar Non-Volatile Hydrocarbon-Based Oils
[0147] The term "hydrocarbon-based oil" means an oil formed
essentially from, or even consisting of, carbon and hydrogen atoms,
and possibly oxygen and nitrogen atoms, and not containing any
silicon or fluorine atoms.
[0148] It may contain alcohol, ester, ether, carboxylic acid, amine
and/or amide groups.
[0149] Preferably, the hydrocarbon-based oil, in addition to being
free of silicon and fluorine, is free of heteroatoms such as N, S
and P. The hydrocarbon-based oil is therefore different from a
silicone oil and from a fluoro oil.
[0150] In the present case, the non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil
comprises at least one oxygen atom.
[0151] In particular, this non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil
comprises at least one alcohol function (it is then an "alcohol
oil") and/or at least one ester function (it is then an "ester
oil").
[0152] The ester oils that may be used in the compositions
according to the invention may in particular be hydroxylated.
[0153] The composition may comprise one or more non-volatile
hydrocarbon-based oils, in particular chosen from: [0154]
C.sub.10-C.sub.26 alcohols, preferably monoalcohols.
[0155] More particularly, the C.sub.10-C.sub.26 alcohols are
saturated or unsaturated, and branched or unbranched, and comprise
from 10 to 26 carbon atoms.
[0156] Preferably, the C.sub.10-C.sub.26 alcohols are fatty
alcohols, which are preferably branched when they comprise at least
16 carbon atoms.
[0157] As examples of fatty alcohols that may be used according to
the invention, mention may be made of linear or branched fatty
alcohols, of synthetic origin or alternatively of natural origin,
for instance alcohols derived from plant material (coconut, palm
kernel, palm, etc.) or animal material (tallow, etc.).
[0158] Needless to say, other long-chain alcohols may also be used,
for instance ether alcohols or alternatively "Guerbet"
alcohols.
[0159] Finally, use may also be made of certain more or less long
fractions of alcohols of natural origin, for instance coconut
(C.sub.12 to C.sub.16) or tallow (C.sub.16 to C.sub.18) or
compounds of diol or cholesterol type.
[0160] Use is preferably made of a fatty alcohol comprising from 10
to 24 carbon atoms and more preferentially from 12 to 22 carbon
atoms.
[0161] As particular examples of fatty alcohols that may preferably
be used, mention may be made especially of lauryl alcohol, myristyl
alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, palmityl alcohol, oleyl alcohol,
2-butyloctanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, 2-hexyldecyl alcohol,
isocetyl alcohol and octyldodecanol, and mixtures thereof.
[0162] According to one advantageous embodiment of the invention,
the alcohol is chosen from octyldodecanol. [0163] optionally
hydroxylated monoesters, diesters or triesters of a C.sub.2-C.sub.8
monocarboxylic or polycarboxylic acid and of a C.sub.2-C.sub.8
alcohol.
[0164] In particular: [0165] optionally hydroxylated monoesters of
a C.sub.2-C.sub.8 carboxylic acid and of a C.sub.2-C.sub.8 alcohol,
[0166] optionally hydroxylated diesters of a C.sub.2-C.sub.8
dicarboxylic acid and of a C.sub.2-C.sub.8 alcohol, such as
diisopropyl adipate, 2-diethylhexyl adipate, dibutyl adipate,
diisostearyl adipate or 2-diethylhexyl succinate, [0167] optionally
hydroxylated triesters of a C.sub.2-C.sub.8 tricarboxylic acid and
of a C.sub.2-C.sub.8 alcohol, such as citric acid esters, such as
trioctyl citrate, triethyl citrate, acetyl tributyl citrate,
tributyl citrate or acetyl tributyl citrate; [0168] esters of a
C.sub.2-C.sub.8 polyol and of one or more C.sub.2-C.sub.8
carboxylic acids, such as glycol diesters of monoacids, such as
neopentyl glycol diheptanoate, or glycol triesters of monoacids,
such as triacetin; [0169] ester oils, in particular having between
18 and 70 carbon atoms.
[0170] Examples that may be mentioned include monoesters, diesters
or triesters.
[0171] The ester oils may be hydroxylated or non-hydroxylated.
[0172] The non-volatile ester oil may for example be chosen from:
[0173] monoesters comprising between 18 and 40 carbon atoms in
total, in particular the monoesters of formula R.sub.1COOR.sub.2 in
which R.sub.1 represents a saturated or unsaturated, linear or
branched or aromatic fatty acid residue comprising from 4 to 40
carbon atoms and R.sub.2 represents a hydrocarbon-based chain,
which is in particular branched, containing from 4 to 40 carbon
atoms, on condition that R.sub.1+R.sub.2.ltoreq.18, for instance
Purcellin oil (cetostearyl octanoate), isononyl isononanoate,
C.sub.12 to C.sub.15 alkyl benzoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate,
octyldodecyl neopentanoate, 2-octyldodecyl stearate, 2-octyldodecyl
erucate, isostearyl isostearate, 2-octyldodecyl benzoate, alcohol
or polyalcohol octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates, isopropyl
myristate, isopropyl palmitate, butyl stearate, hexyl laurate,
2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate, 2-octyldecyl
palmitate or 2-octyldodecyl myristate.
[0174] Preferably, they are esters of formula R.sub.1COOR.sub.2 in
which R.sub.1 represents a linear or branched fatty acid residue
containing from 4 to 40 carbon atoms and R.sub.2 represents a
hydrocarbon-based chain that is in particular branched, containing
from 4 to 40 carbon atoms, R.sub.1 and R.sub.2 being such that
R.sub.1+R.sub.2.gtoreq.18.
[0175] Even more particularly, the ester comprises between 18 and
40 carbon atoms in total.
[0176] Preferred monoesters that may be mentioned include isononyl
isononanoate, oleyl erucate and/or 2-octyldodecyl neopentanoate.
[0177] monoesters of a fatty acid, in particular of 18 to 22 carbon
atoms, and in particular of lanolic acid, oleic acid, lauric acid
or stearic acid, and of diols, for instance propylene glycol
monoisostearate; [0178] diesters, in particular comprising between
18 and 60 carbon atoms in total and in particular between 18 and 50
carbon atoms in total. Use may be made especially of diesters of a
dicarboxylic acid and of monoalcohols, preferably such as
diisostearyl malate, or glycol diesters of monocarboxylic acids,
such as neopentyl glycol diheptanoate, propylene glycol
dioctanoate, diethylene glycol diisononanoate or polyglyceryl-2
diisostearate (in particular such as the compound sold under the
commercial reference Dermol DGDIS by the company Alzo); [0179]
hydroxylated monoesters and diesters, preferably with a total
carbon number ranging from 18 to 70, for instance polyglyceryl-3
diisostearate, isostearyl lactate, octyl hydroxystearate,
octyldodecyl hydroxystearate, diisostearyl malate or glyceryl
stearate; [0180] triesters, in particular comprising between 35 and
70 carbon atoms in total, in particular such as triesters of a
tricarboxylic acid, such as triisostearyl citrate, or tridecyl
trimellitate, or glycol triesters of monocarboxylic acids such as
polyglyceryl-2 triisostearate; [0181] tetraesters, in particular
with a total carbon number ranging from 35 to 70, such as
pentaerythritol or polyglycerol tetraesters of a monocarboxylic
acid, for instance pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate,
pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate, pentaerythrityl
tetraisononanoate, glyceryl tris(2-decyl)tetradecanoate,
polyglyceryl-2 tetraisostearate or pentaerythrityl
tetrakis(2-decyl)tetradecanoate; [0182] polyesters obtained by
condensation of an unsaturated fatty acid dimer and/or trimer and
of diol, such as those described in patent application FR 0 853
634, in particular such as dilinoleic acid and 1,4-butanediol.
Mention may in particular be made in this respect of the polymer
sold by Biosynthis under the name Viscoplast 14436H (INCI name:
dilinoleic acid/butanediol copolymer), or else copolymers of
polyols and of diacid dimers, and esters thereof, such as Hailucent
ISDA; [0183] esters and polyesters of diol dimer and of
monocarboxylic or dicarboxylic acid, such as esters of diol dimer
and of fatty acid and esters of diol dimer and of dicarboxylic acid
dimer, in particular which may be obtained from a dicarboxylic acid
dimer derived in particular from the dimerization of an unsaturated
fatty acid especially of C.sub.8 to C.sub.34, especially of
C.sub.12 to C.sub.22, in particular of C.sub.18 to C.sub.20 and
more particularly of C.sub.18, such as esters of dilinoleic diacids
and of dilinoleic diol dimers, for instance those sold by the
company Nippon Fine Chemical under the trade names Lusplan
DD-DA5.RTM. and DD-DA7.RTM.; [0184] polyesters resulting from the
esterification of at least one triglyceride of hydroxylated
carboxylic acid(s) with an aliphatic monocarboxylic acid and with
an aliphatic dicarboxylic acid, which is optionally unsaturated,
for instance the succinic acid and isostearic acid castor oil sold
under the reference Zenigloss by Zenitech; [0185] hydrocarbon-based
plant oils such as fatty acid triglycerides (which are liquid at
room temperature), especially of fatty acids containing from 7 to
40 carbon atoms, such as heptanoic or octanoic acid triglycerides
or jojoba oil; mention may be made in particular of saturated
triglycerides such as caprylic/capric triglyceride and mixtures
thereof, for example such as the product sold under the reference
Myritol 318 from Cognis, glyceryl triheptanoate, glyceryl
trioctanoate, and C.sub.18-36 acid triglycerides such as those sold
under the reference Dub TGI 24 by Stearineries Dubois, and
unsaturated triglycerides such as castor oil, olive oil, ximenia
oil or pracaxi oil; [0186] vinylpyrrolidone/1-hexadecene
copolymers, for instance the product sold under the name Antaron
V-216 (also known as Ganex V216) by the company ISP (MW=7300
g/mol); [0187] C.sub.12-C.sub.26 fatty acids, preferably
C.sub.12-C.sub.22 fatty acids, which are preferably unsaturated,
such as oleic acid, linoleic acid or linolenic acid, and mixtures
thereof; [0188] dialkyl carbonates, the 2 alkyl chains possibly
being identical or different, such as dicaprylyl carbonate sold
under the name Cetiol CC.RTM. by Cognis; [0189] and mixtures
thereof.
Apolar Non-Volatile Hydrocarbon-Based Oils
[0190] The composition according to the invention may also comprise
at least one apolar non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil.
[0191] These oils may be of plant, mineral or synthetic origin.
[0192] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "apolar
oil" means an oil whose solubility parameter at 25.degree. C.,
.delta..sub.a, is equal to 0 (J/cm.sup.3).sup.1/2.
[0193] The definition and calculation of the solubility parameters
in the Hansen three-dimensional solubility space are described in
the article by C. M. Hansen: The three-dimensional solubility
parameters, J. Paint Technol. 39, 105 (1967). According to this
Hansen space, the parameters .delta..sub.p, .delta..sub.h,
.delta..sub.D and .delta..sub.a are expressed in
(J/cm.sup.3).sup.1/2 and are defined as follows:
[0194] .delta..sub.D characterizes the London dispersion forces
derived from the formation of dipoles induced during molecular
impacts;
[0195] .delta..sub.p characterizes the Debye interaction forces
between permanent dipoles and also the Keesom interaction forces
between induced dipoles and permanent dipoles;
[0196] .delta..sub.h characterizes the specific interaction forces
(such as hydrogen bonding, acid/base, donor/acceptor, etc.);
and
[0197] .delta..sub.a is determined by the equation:
.delta..sub.a=(.delta..sub.p.sup.2+.delta..sub.h.sup.2).sup.1/2.
[0198] Preferably, the non-volatile apolar hydrocarbon-based oil
may be chosen from linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or
synthetic origin, such as: [0199] liquid paraffin or derivatives
thereof (mineral oil), [0200] squalane, [0201] isoeicosane, [0202]
naphthalene oil, [0203] polybutenes such as for instance Indopol
H-100 (molar mass or MW=965 g/mol), Indopol H-300 (MW=1340 g/mol)
and Indopol H-1500 (MW=2160 g/mol) sold or manufactured by the
company Amoco, [0204] polyisobutenes, hydrogenated polyisobutenes
more particularly such as Parleam.RTM. sold by the company Nippon
Oil Fats, Panalane H-300 E sold or manufactured by the company
Amoco (MW=1340 g/mol), Viseal 20000 sold or manufactured by the
company Synteal (MW=6000 g/mol) and Rewopal PIB 1000 sold or
manufactured by the company Witco (MW=1000 g/mol), or alternatively
Parleam Lite sold by NOF Corporation, [0205] decene/butene
copolymers, polybutene/polyisobutene copolymers, especially Indopol
L-14, [0206] polydecenes and hydrogenated polydecenes for instance
such as: Puresyn 10 (MW=723 g/mol) and Puresyn 150 (MW=9200 g/mol)
sold or manufactured by the company Mobil Chemicals, or
alternatively Puresyn 6 sold by ExxonMobil Chemical, [0207] and
mixtures thereof.
Silicone Oils
[0208] The term "silicone oil" means an oil containing at least one
silicon atom, and in particular containing Si--O groups.
[0209] Among the non-volatile silicone oils that may be used in the
present invention, examples that may be mentioned include
non-volatile non-phenyl silicone oils and non-volatile phenyl
silicone oils.
[0210] The silicone oils that may be used for the purposes of the
invention advantageously have a molecular mass of less than or
equal to 150 000 g/mol, preferably less than or equal to 100000
g/mol and better still less than or equal to 10000 g/mol.
Non-Volatile Non-Phenyl Silicone Oils
[0211] The term "non-phenyl silicone oil" denotes a silicone oil
not comprising any phenyl substituents.
[0212] Representative examples of these non-volatile non-phenyl
silicone oils which may be mentioned include polydimethylsiloxanes;
alkyl dimethicones; vinylmethyl methicones; and also silicones
modified with aliphatic groups and/or with functional groups such
as hydroxyl, thiol and/or amine groups.
[0213] It should be noted that "dimethicone" (INCI name)
corresponds to a polydimethylsiloxane (chemical name).
[0214] The non-volatile non-phenyl silicone oil is preferably
chosen from non-volatile dimethicone oils.
[0215] In particular, these oils can be chosen from the following
non-volatile oils: [0216] polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS), [0217]
PDMSs comprising aliphatic groups, in particular alkyl or alkoxy
groups, which are pendent and/or at the end of the silicone chain,
these groups each comprising from 2 to 24 carbon atoms. By way of
example, mention may be made of the cetyl dimethicone sold under
the commercial reference Abil Wax 9801 from Evonik Goldschmidt,
[0218] PDMSs comprising aliphatic groups, or functional groups such
as hydroxyl, thiol and/or amine groups, [0219]
polyalkylmethylsiloxanes substituted with functional groups such as
hydroxyl, thiol and/or amine groups, [0220] polysiloxanes modified
with fatty acids, fatty alcohols or polyoxyalkylenes, and [0221]
mixtures thereof.
[0222] Preferably, these non-volatile non-phenyl silicone oils are
chosen from polydimethylsiloxanes; alkyl dimethicones and also
PDMSs comprising aliphatic groups, in particular C.sub.2-C.sub.24
alkyl groups, and/or functional groups such as hydroxyl, thiol
and/or amine groups.
[0223] The non-volatile non-phenyl silicone oil may be chosen in
particular from silicones of formula (I):
##STR00016##
in which: [0224] R.sub.1, R.sub.2, R.sub.5 and R.sub.6 are,
together or separately, an alkyl radical containing from 1 to 6
carbon atoms, [0225] R.sub.3 and R.sub.4 are, together or
separately, an alkyl radical containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, a
vinyl radical, an amine radical or a hydroxyl radical, [0226] X is
an alkyl radical containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, a hydroxyl
radical or an amine radical, [0227] n and p are integers chosen so
as to have a fluid compound, in particular whose viscosity at
25.degree. C. is between 8 centistokes (cSt) (8.times.10.sup.-6
m.sup.2/s) and 800000 cSt, and a molecular mass of less than or
equal to 150000 g/mol, preferably less than or equal to 100000
g/mol and better still less than or equal to 10000 g/mol.
[0228] As non-volatile non-phenyl silicone oils that may be used
according to the invention, mention may be made of those for
which:
[0229] the substituents R.sub.1 to R.sub.6 and X represent a methyl
group, and p and n are such that the viscosity is 60000 cSt, for
example the product sold under the name Dow Corning 200 Fluid 60000
CS by the company Dow Corning, and the product sold under the name
Wacker Belsil DM 60000 by the company Wacker,
[0230] the substituents R.sub.1 to R.sub.6 and X represent a methyl
group, and p and n are such that the viscosity is 100 cSt or 350
cSt, for example the products sold respectively under the names
Belsil DM100 and Dow Corning 200 Fluid 350 CS by the company Dow
Corning, and
[0231] the substituents R.sub.1 to R.sub.6 represent a methyl
group, the group X represents a hydroxyl group, and n and p are
such that the viscosity is 700 cSt, for example the product sold
under the name Baysilone Fluid T0.7 by the company Momentive.
Non-Volatile Phenyl Silicone Oils
[0232] The expression "phenyl silicone oil" (or phenylated silicone
oil) denotes a silicone oil bearing at least one phenyl
substituent.
[0233] These non-volatile phenyl silicone oils may be chosen from
those also bearing at least one dimethicone fragment, or from those
not bearing one. According to the invention, a dimethicone fragment
corresponds to the following unit: --Si(CH.sub.3).sub.2--O--.
[0234] The non-volatile phenyl silicone oil may thus be chosen
from: [0235] phenyl silicone oils optionally bearing a dimethicone
fragment corresponding to formula (I) below:
##STR00017##
[0235] in which the groups R, which are monovalent or divalent,
represent, independently of each other, a methyl, methylene, phenyl
or phenylene, with the proviso that at least one group R represents
a phenyl.
[0236] Preferably, in this formula, the phenyl silicone oil
comprises at least three phenyl groups, for example at least four,
at least five or at least six. [0237] phenyl silicone oils
optionally bearing a dimethicone fragment corresponding to formula
(II) below:
##STR00018##
[0237] in which the groups R represent, independently of each
other, a methyl or a phenyl, with the proviso that at least one
group R represents a phenyl.
[0238] Preferably, in this formula, the compound of formula (II)
comprises at least three, for example at least four or at least
five, phenyl groups.
[0239] Mixtures of different phenylorganopolysiloxane compounds
described above can be used.
[0240] Examples that may be mentioned include mixtures of
triphenyl-, tetraphenyl- or pentaphenyl-organopolysiloxanes.
[0241] Among the compounds of formula (II), mention may be made
more particularly of phenyl silicone oils not bearing any
dimethicone fragments, corresponding to formula (II) in which at
least 4 or at least 5 radicals R represent a phenyl radical, the
remaining radicals representing methyls.
[0242] Such non-volatile phenyl silicone oils are preferably
trimethylpentaphenyltrisiloxane or
tetramethyltetraphenyltrisiloxane. They are in particular sold by
Dow Corning under the reference PH-1555 HRI or Dow Corning 555
Cosmetic Fluid (chemical name:
1,3,5-trimethyl-1,1,3,5,5-pentaphenyltrisiloxane; INCI name:
trimethylpentaphenyltrisiloxane), or the
tetramethyltetraphenyltrisiloxane sold under the reference Dow
Corning 554 Cosmetic Fluid by Dow Corning can also be used.
[0243] They correspond especially to formulae (III) and (III')
below:
##STR00019##
in which Me represents methyl, and Ph represents phenyl. [0244]
phenyl silicone oils bearing at least one dimethicone fragment
corresponding to formula (IV) below:
##STR00020##
[0244] in which Me represents methyl, y is between 1 and 1000 and X
represents --CH.sub.2--CH(CH.sub.3)(Ph). [0245] phenyl silicone
oils corresponding to formula (V) below, and mixtures thereof:
##STR00021##
[0245] in which:
[0246] R.sub.1 to R.sub.10, independently of each other, are
saturated or unsaturated, linear, cyclic or branched
C.sub.1-C.sub.30 hydrocarbon-based radicals,
[0247] m, n, p and q are, independently of each other, integers
between 0 and 900, with the proviso that the sum m+n+q is other
than 0.
[0248] Preferably, the sum m+n+q is between 1 and 100.
Advantageously, the sum m+n+p+q is between 1 and 900 and preferably
between 1 and 800.
[0249] Preferably, q is equal to 0.
[0250] More particularly, R.sub.1 to R.sub.10, independently of
each other, represent a saturated or unsaturated, preferably
saturated, linear or branched C.sub.1-C.sub.30 hydrocarbon-based
radical, and in particular a preferably saturated,
C.sub.1-C.sub.20, in particular C.sub.1-C.sub.18, hydrocarbon-based
radical, or a monocyclic or polycyclic C.sub.6-C.sub.14, and in
particular C.sub.10-C.sub.13, aryl radical, or an aralkyl radical,
the alkyl part of which is preferably C.sub.1-C.sub.3 alkyl.
[0251] Preferably, R.sub.1 to R.sub.10 may each represent a methyl,
ethyl, propyl, butyl, isopropyl, decyl, dodecyl or octadecyl
radical, or alternatively a phenyl, tolyl, benzyl or phenethyl
radical. R.sub.1 to R.sub.10 may in particular be identical, and in
addition may be a methyl radical.
[0252] As particular embodiments of formula (V), mention may be
made of: [0253] phenyl silicone oils optionally bearing at least
one dimethicone fragment corresponding to formula (VI) below, and
mixtures thereof:
##STR00022##
[0253] in which: [0254] R.sub.1 to R.sub.6, independently of each
other, are saturated or unsaturated, linear, cyclic or branched
C.sub.1-C.sub.30 hydrocarbon-based radicals, a preferably
C.sub.6-C.sub.14 aryl radical or an aralkyl radical, the alkyl part
of which is C.sub.1-C.sub.3 alkyl, [0255] m, n and p are,
independently of each other, integers between 0 and 100, with the
proviso that the sum n+m is between 1 and 100.
[0256] Preferably, R.sub.1 to R.sub.6, independently of each other,
represent a C.sub.1-C.sub.20, in particular C.sub.1-C.sub.18,
hydrocarbon-based, preferably alkyl, radical, or a C.sub.6-C.sub.14
aryl radical which is monocyclic (preferably C.sub.6) or polycyclic
and in particular C.sub.10-C.sub.13, or an aralkyl radical
(preferably the aryl part is C.sub.6 aryl; the alkyl part is
C.sub.1-C.sub.3 alkyl).
[0257] Preferably, R.sub.1 to R.sub.6 may each represent a methyl,
ethyl, propyl, butyl, isopropyl, decyl, dodecyl or octadecyl
radical, or alternatively a phenyl, tolyl, benzyl or phenethyl
radical.
[0258] R.sub.1 to R.sub.6 may in particular be identical, and in
addition may be a methyl radical. Preferably, m=1 or 2 or 3, and/or
n=0 and/or p=0 or 1 can be applied, in formula (VI).
[0259] According to one particular embodiment, the non-volatile
phenyl silicone oil is chosen from phenyl silicone oils bearing at
least one dimethicone fragment.
[0260] Preferably, such oils correspond to compounds of formula
(VI) in which: [0261] m=0 and n and p are, independently of each
other, integers between 1 and 100.
[0262] Preferably, R.sub.1 to R.sub.6 are methyl radicals.
[0263] According to this embodiment, the silicone oil is preferably
chosen from a diphenyl dimethicone such as KF-54 from Shin-Etsu
(400 cSt), KF54HV from Shin-Etsu (5000 cSt), KF-50-300CS from
Shin-Etsu (300 cSt), KF-53 from Shin-Etsu (175 cSt) or KF-50-100CS
from Shin-Etsu (100 cSt). [0264] p is between 1 and 100, the sum
n+m is between 1 and 100, and n=0.
[0265] These phenyl silicone oils optionally bear at least one
dimethicone fragment correspond more particularly to formula (VII)
below:
##STR00023##
in which Me is methyl and Ph is phenyl, OR' represents a group
--OSiMe.sub.3 and p is 0 or is between 1 and 1000, and m is between
1 and 1000. In particular, m and p are such that the compound (VII)
is a non-volatile oil.
[0266] According to a first embodiment of non-volatile phenyl
silicone bearing at least one dimethicone fragment, p is between 1
and 1000 and m is more particularly such that compound (VII) is a
non-volatile oil. Trimethylsiloxyphenyldimethicone, sold in
particular under the reference Belsil PDM 1000 by the company
Wacker, may, for example, be used.
[0267] According to a second embodiment of non-volatile phenyl
silicone not bearing a dimethicone fragment, p is equal to 0 and m
is between 1 and 1000, and in particular is such that the compound
(VII) is a non-volatile oil.
[0268] Phenyltrimethylsiloxytrisiloxane, sold in particular under
the reference Dow Corning 556 Cosmetic Grade Fluid (DC556), may,
for example, be used. [0269] non-volatile phenyl silicone oils not
bearing a dimethicone fragment corresponding to formula (VIII)
below, and mixtures thereof:
##STR00024##
[0269] in which:
[0270] R, independently of each other, are saturated or
unsaturated, linear, cyclic or branched C.sub.1-C.sub.30
hydrocarbon-based radicals, preferably R is a C.sub.1-C.sub.30
alkyl radical, a preferably C.sub.6-C.sub.14 aryl radical, or an
aralkyl radical, the alkyl part of which is C.sub.1-C.sub.3
alkyl,
[0271] m and n are, independently of each other, integers between 0
and 100, with the proviso that the sum n+m is between 1 and
100.
[0272] Preferably, R, independently of each other, represent a
saturated or unsaturated, preferably saturated, linear or branched
C.sub.1-C.sub.30 hydrocarbon-based radical, and in particular a
preferably saturated, C.sub.1-C.sub.20, in particular
C.sub.1-C.sub.18 and more particularly C.sub.4-C.sub.10,
hydrocarbon-based radical, a monocyclic or polycyclic
C.sub.6-C.sub.14, and in particular C.sub.10-C.sub.13, aryl
radical, or an aralkyl radical of which preferably the aryl part is
C.sub.6 aryl and the alkyl part is C.sub.1-C.sub.3 alkyl.
[0273] Preferably, the groups R may each represent a methyl, ethyl,
propyl, butyl, isopropyl, decyl, dodecyl or octadecyl radical, or
alternatively a phenyl, tolyl, benzyl or phenethyl radical.
[0274] The groups R may in particular be identical, and in addition
may be a methyl radical.
[0275] Preferably, m=1 or 2 or 3, and/or n=0 and/or p=0 or 1 can be
applied, in formula (VIII).
[0276] According to a preferred embodiment, n is an integer between
0 and 100 and m is an integer between 1 and 100, with the proviso
that the sum n+m is between 1 and 100, in formula (VIII).
Preferably, R is a methyl radical.
[0277] According to one embodiment, a phenyl silicone oil of
formula (VIII) with a viscosity at 25.degree. C. of between 5 and
1500 mm.sup.2/s (i.e. 5 to 1500 cSt), and preferably with a
viscosity of between 5 and 1000 mm.sup.2/s (i.e. 5 to 1000 cSt),
may be used.
[0278] According to this embodiment, the non-volatile phenyl
silicone oil is preferably chosen from phenyl trimethicones (when
n=0) such as DC556 from Dow Corning (22.5 cSt), or else from
diphenylsiloxyphenyl trimethicone oil (when m and n are between 1
and 100) such as KF56 A from Shin-Etsu, or the Silbione 70663V30
oil from Rhone-Poulenc (28 cSt). The values in parentheses
represent the viscosities at 25.degree. C. [0279] phenyl silicone
oils optionally bearing at least one dimethicone fragment
corresponding to the following formula, and mixtures thereof:
##STR00025##
[0279] in which: R.sub.1, R.sub.2, R.sub.5 and R.sub.6, which may
be identical or different, are an alkyl radical containing 1 to 6
carbon atoms, R.sub.3 and R.sub.4, which may be identical or
different, are an alkyl radical containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms
or an aryl radical (preferably C.sub.6-C.sub.14), with the proviso
that at least one of R.sub.3 and R.sub.4 is a phenyl radical, X is
an alkyl radical containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, a hydroxyl
radical or a vinyl radical, n and p being an integer greater than
or equal to 1, chosen so as to give the oil a weight-average
molecular weight preferably less than 150000 g/mol and more
preferably less than 100000 g/mol. [0280] and a mixture
thereof.
Non-Volatile Fluoro Oils
[0281] The term "fluoro oil" means an oil containing at least one
fluorine atom.
[0282] Among the non-volatile fluoro oils that may be used in the
present invention, mention may be made in particular of
fluorosilicone oils, fluoro polyethers and fluorosilicones
especially as described in document EP-A-847 752, and perfluoro
compounds.
[0283] The term "perfluoro compounds" means compounds in which all
the hydrogen atoms have been replaced with fluorine atoms.
[0284] According to one embodiment, the fluoro oil is chosen from
perfluoro oils. As examples of perfluoro oils, mention may be made
of perfluorodecalins and perfluoroperhydrophenanthrenes.
[0285] According to one embodiment, the fluoro oil is chosen from
perfluoroperhydrophenanthrenes, and especially the Fiflow.RTM.
products sold by the company Creations Couleurs. In particular, use
may be made of the fluoro oil whose INCI name is
perfluoroperhydrophenanthrene, sold under the reference Fiflow 220
by the company F2 Chemicals.
[0286] The composition according to the invention preferably
comprises at least one polar or apolar non-volatile
hydrocarbon-based oil, at least one non-volatile silicone oil,
which is preferably phenylated, and mixtures thereof. In accordance
with an even more particular embodiment, the composition according
to the invention comprises at least one non-volatile silicone oil,
which is preferably phenylated.
[0287] Preferably, said non-volatile phenyl silicone oils are
chosen from phenyl silicones not bearing any dimethicone fragments.
More particularly, the non-volatile phenyl silicone oils not having
a dimethicone fragment are chosen from (I), with radicals R such
that the silicone has no dimethicone fragment; (II) with radicals R
such that the silicone has no dimethicone fragment, in particular
formulae (III) and (III'); (V) with p=0; (VI) with p=0; (VII) with
p=0; (VIII); (IX) with radicals R such that the silicone has no
dimethicone fragment; or mixtures thereof.
[0288] Furthermore, preferably, the non-volatile phenylated
silicone oils are chosen from those of formula (II), more
particularly non-volatile phenyl silicone oils of formula (III) or
(III').
[0289] In addition, the non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil(s) are
more particularly chosen from polar non-volatile oils, such as for
example C.sub.10-C.sub.26 alcohols, or ester oils; from apolar
oils; and mixtures thereof.
[0290] Preferably, the composition comprises at least one polar oil
chosen from C.sub.10-C.sub.26 alcohols; hydroxylated monoesters and
diesters; monoesters comprising between 18 and 40 carbon atoms in
total; triesters comprising between 35 and 70 carbon atoms in
total, or mixtures thereof, or at least one apolar oil chosen from
liquid paraffin or derivatives thereof, hydrogenated or
non-hydrogenated poly(iso)butenes, and also mixtures thereof.
[0291] Preferably, the composition comprises at least one polar
oil, more particularly octyldodecanol.
Silicone Gum
[0292] According to one embodiment of the invention, the
composition comprises at least one silicone gum chosen from
polyorganosiloxanes with a weight-average molecular mass of greater
than or equal to 400 000 g/mol.
[0293] The weight-average molecular masses are measured in a manner
that is conventional in the field, for example using gel permeation
chromatography coupled to static light scattering (GPC-MALLS).
[0294] Preferably, the viscosity of the silicone gum is greater
than 800000 cSt and more particularly less than or equal to
10000000 cSt (at 25.degree. C., measured by standard ASTM D-445),
more particularly between 1000000 and 5000000 cSt (at 25.degree.
C., measured by standard ASTM D-445).
[0295] The term "silicone gum" means more particularly
polyorganosiloxanes, in particular linear non-crosslinked,
optionally hydroxylated, phenylated or vinyl polydimethylsiloxanes,
or combinations thereof. It should be noted that the silicone gums
used according to the invention are not silicone elastomers.
[0296] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the
silicone gum corresponds to the following formula:
##STR00026##
in which: [0297] R7, R8, R11 and R12 are identical or different,
and each is chosen from alkyl radicals comprising from 1 to 6
carbon atoms, [0298] R9 and R10 are identical or different, and
each is chosen from an alkyl radical comprising from 1 to 6 carbon
atoms, an aryl radical, a hydroxyl radical, a vinyl radical,
preferably an alkyl radical comprising from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, a
hydroxyl radical; [0299] X is chosen from an alkyl radical
comprising from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, a hydroxyl radical, a vinyl
radical, preferably an alkyl radical comprising from 1 to 6 carbon
atoms, a hydroxyl radical; [0300] n and p are chosen so as to give
the silicone gum a molecular mass of greater than or equal to 400
000 g/mol.
[0301] In general, n and p may each take values ranging from 0 to
5000 and more particularly from 0 to 3000, given that n and p are
not simultaneously zero.
[0302] According to a particular embodiment, the silicone gum is a
polydimethylsiloxane gum optionally comprising at least one aryl
radical, a dimethiconol gum, or mixtures thereof, and preferably a
dimethiconol gum.
[0303] The silicone gum(s) may be used alone or as a mixture,
especially with a solvent chosen from volatile silicones,
polydimethylsiloxane oils, polyphenylmethylsiloxane oils,
isoparaffins, in particular of C.sub.8-C.sub.16, methylene
chloride, pentane, dodecane, tridecane and tetradecane, or mixtures
thereof.
[0304] If the silicone gums are sold in predissolved form, the
proportion of gum usually represents from 5% to 20% by weight and
preferably from 10% to 15% by weight in a linear or cyclic,
volatile or non-volatile polydimethylsiloxane of low molecular
weight.
[0305] Among the silicone gums that may be used, mention may be
made of those for which: [0306] R7 to R12 represent a methyl group,
the substituent X represents a hydroxyl group, the coefficients n
and p being such that the molecular mass is greater than or equal
to 400 000 g/mol: [0307] product sold or manufactured under the
name Xiameter.RTM. PMX-1401 Fluid by the company Dow Corning, in
the form of a solution at 13% in cyclopentasiloxane, [0308] product
sold or manufactured under the name Xiameter.RTM. PMX-1501 Fluid by
the company Dow Corning, in the form of a solution at 14-15% in
cyclopentasiloxane, [0309] product sold or manufactured under the
name Xiameter.RTM. PMX-1503 Fluid by the company Dow Corning, in
the form of a solution at 12% in polydimethylsiloxane, [0310]
product sold or manufactured under the name Xiameter.RTM. PMX-1403
Fluid by the company Dow Corning, in the form of a solution at 13%
in polydimethylsiloxane, [0311] R7, R8, R11, R12 and X represent a
methyl group and the substituents R9 and R10 represent an aryl
group, the coefficients n and p being such that the molecular mass
is greater than or equal to 400 000 g/mol: [0312] product sold or
manufactured under the name Mirasil.RTM. C-DPDM by the company
Bluestar.
[0313] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the
silicone gum is a polydimethylsiloxane gum optionally comprising at
least one aryl radical, a dimethiconol gum, or mixtures thereof,
and preferably a dimethiconol gum.
[0314] In accordance with a particularly advantageous embodiment of
the invention, the silicone gum, where appropriate in predissolved
form, is incompatible with the film-forming polymer, the latter
being, where appropriate, conveyed in at least one oil, preferably
a volatile oil.
[0315] To check this absence of compatibility, several mixtures of
the silicone gum, where appropriate predissolved, were made with
the film-forming polymer, where appropriate conveyed in at least
one oil, preferably a volatile oil: 30/70; 50/50; 70/30 (the ratios
being expressed by weight, each mixture representing 10 g).
[0316] Each mixture is prepared at 25.degree. C. with stirring
(magnetic bar) for one hour.
[0317] If the resulting mixture appears to be one-phase, this
mixture is observed with a phase-contrast microscope. If one phase
is seen to be dispersed in the other, then said optionally
predissolved silicone gum and the film-forming polymer in its
vehicle (if present) are said to be incompatible in the evaluated
mixture.
[0318] Silicone gums that are incompatible in all the tested
mixtures are more particularly suitable for use. Use may also be
made of gums that are incompatible for some of the tested mixtures,
if these gums are used in the composition in a content in which
they are incompatible. If necessary, on the basis of the results
obtained previously, one or more tests may be repeated to check the
compatibility at the envisaged content.
[0319] Preferably, use is made of at least one silicone gum that is
incompatible with the film-forming polymer/vehicle if present, for
the three mixtures described previously.
[0320] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition
according to the invention comprises at least one silicone gum in
an active material content ranging from 0.1% to 10% by weight,
preferably from 0.2% to 8% by weight, in particular from 0.3% to 6%
by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Surfactants
[0321] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the
composition comprises at least one surfactant.
[0322] The content of surfactant(s) usually ranges between 0.05%
and 15% by weight and preferably between 0.5% and 10% by weight
relative to the weight of the composition.
[0323] The suitable surfactant(s) may be chosen from nonionic,
anionic, cationic and amphoteric surfactants, and mixtures thereof;
and preferably from nonionic or anionic hydrocarbon-based or
silicone surfactants, and mixtures thereof.
[0324] For the choice of these surfactants, reference may be made
to the document "Encyclopaedia of Chemical Technology,
Kirk-Othmer", volume 22, pp. 333-432, 3rd edition, 1979, Wiley, for
the definition of the properties and functions (emulsifying) of
surfactants, in particular pp. 347-377 of this reference, for
anionic and nonionic surfactants.
[0325] In particular, at least one emulsifying surfactant having at
25.degree. C. an HLB (hydrophilic-lipophilic balance) within the
Griffin sense of greater than or equal to 8 may be used. The
Griffin HLB value is defined in J. Soc. Cosm. Chem. 1954 (volume
5), pages 249-256.
[0326] An emulsifying surfactant having at 25.degree. C. an HLB
(hydrophilic-lipophilic balance) within the Griffin sense of less
than 8 may also optionally be used.
[0327] A person skilled in the art will select the surfactant(s) as
a function of the type of emulsion that he wishes to obtain, a
water-in-oil or oil-in-water emulsion, on the basis of his general
knowledge.
Nonionic Surfactants
[0328] The nonionic surfactants may be chosen especially from alkyl
and polyalkyl esters of poly(ethylene oxide), (poly)oxyalkylenated
alcohols, alkyl and polyalkyl ethers of poly(ethylene oxide),
optionally polyoxyethylenated alkyl and polyalkyl esters of
sorbitan, optionally polyoxyethylenated alkyl and polyalkyl ethers
of sorbitan, alkyl and polyalkyl glycosides or polyglycosides, in
particular alkyl and polyalkyl glucosides or polyglucosides, alkyl
and polyalkyl esters of sucrose, optionally polyoxyethylenated
alkyl and polyalkyl esters of glycerol, and optionally
polyoxyethylenated alkyl and polyalkyl ethers of glycerol, and
mixtures thereof.
1) (C.sub.8-C.sub.30)Alkyl and poly(C.sub.8-C.sub.30)alkyl esters
of poly(ethylene oxide) that are preferably used are those with a
number of ethylene oxide (EO) units ranging from 2 to 200. Examples
that may be mentioned include stearate 40 EO, stearate 50 EO,
stearate 100 EO, laurate 20 EO, laurate 40 EO and distearate 150
EO. 2) (C.sub.8-C.sub.30)Alkyl and poly(C.sub.8-C.sub.30)alkyl
ethers of poly(ethylene oxide) that are preferably used are those
with a number of ethylene oxide (EO) units ranging from 2 to 200.
Examples that may be mentioned include cetyl ether 23 EO, oleyl
ether 50 EO, phytosterol 30 EO, steareth 40, steareth 100 and
beheneth 100. 3) (Poly)oxyalkylenated, in particular oxyethylenated
and/or oxypropylenated, alcohols that are preferably used are those
that can comprise from 1 to 150 oxyethylene and/or oxypropylene
units, in particular containing from 20 to 100 oxyethylene units,
in particular ethoxylated fatty alcohols, in particular of
C.sub.8-C.sub.24 and preferably of C.sub.12-C.sub.18, such as
stearyl alcohol ethoxylated with 20 oxyethylene units (CTFA name
Steareth-20), for instance Brij 78 sold by the company Uniqema,
cetearyl alcohol ethoxylated with 30 oxyethylene units (CTFA name
Ceteareth-30), and the mixture of C.sub.12-C.sub.15 fatty alcohols
comprising 7 oxyethylene units (CTFA name C.sub.12-15 Pareth-7),
for instance the product sold under the name Neodol 25-7.RTM. by
Shell Chemicals; or in particular oxyalkylenated (oxyethylenated
and/or oxypropylenated) alcohols containing from 1 to 15
oxyethylene and/or oxypropylene units, in particular
C.sub.8-C.sub.24 and preferably C.sub.12-C.sub.18 fatty alcohols,
such as stearyl alcohol ethoxylated with 2 oxyethylene units (CTFA
name Steareth-2), for instance Brij 72 sold by the company Uniqema.
4) Optionally polyoxyethylenated (C.sub.8-C.sub.30)alkyl and
poly(C.sub.8-C.sub.30)alkyl esters of sorbitan that are preferably
used are those with a number of ethylene oxide (EO) units ranging
from 0 to 100. Examples that may be mentioned include sorbitan
laurate 4 or 20 EO, in particular polysorbate 20 (or
polyoxyethylene (20) sorbitan monolaurate) such as the product
Tween 20 sold by the company Uniqema, sorbitan palmitate 20 EO,
sorbitan stearate 20 EO, sorbitan oleate 20 EO, or the Cremophor
products (RH 40, RH 60, etc.) from BASF. 5) Optionally
polyoxyethylenated (C.sub.8-C.sub.30)alkyl and
poly(C.sub.8-C.sub.30)alkyl ethers of sorbitan that are preferably
used are those with a number of ethylene oxide (EO) units ranging
from 0 to 100. 6) Alkyl and polyalkyl glucosides or polyglucosides
that are preferably used are those containing an alkyl group
comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms and preferably from 6 to 18 or
even from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and containing a glucoside group
preferably comprising from 1 to 5 and in particular 1, 2 or 3
glucoside units. The alkylpolyglucosides may be chosen, for
example, from decylglucoside (alkyl-C.sub.9/C.sub.11-polyglucoside
(1.4)), for instance the product sold under the name Mydol 10.RTM.
by the company Kao Chemicals or the product sold under the name
Plantacare 2000 UP.RTM. by the company Henkel and the product sold
under the name Oramix NS 10.RTM. by the company SEPPIC;
caprylyl/capryl glucoside, for instance the product sold under the
name Plantacare KE 3711.RTM. by the company Cognis or Oramix CG
110.RTM. by the company SEPPIC; laurylglucoside, for instance the
product sold under the name Plantacare 1200 UP.RTM. by the company
Henkel or Plantaren 1200 N.RTM. by the company Henkel;
cocoglucoside, for instance the product sold under the name
Plantacare 818 UP.RTM. by the company Henkel; caprylylglucoside,
for instance the product sold under the name Plantacare 810 UP.RTM.
by the company Cognis; and mixtures thereof. 7) Examples of
(C.sub.8-C.sub.30)alkyl and poly(C.sub.8-C.sub.30)alkyl esters of
sucrose that may be mentioned include Crodesta F150, sucrose
monolaurate sold under the name Crodesta SL 40, and the products
sold by Ryoto Sugar Ester, for instance sucrose palmitate sold
under the reference Ryoto Sugar Ester P1670, Ryoto Sugar Ester
LWA1695 or Ryoto Sugar Ester 01570. 8) Optionally
polyoxyethylenated (C.sub.8-C.sub.30)alkyl and
poly(C.sub.8-C.sub.30)alkyl esters of glycerol that are preferably
used are those with a number of ethylene oxide (EO) units ranging
from 0 to 100 and a number of glycerol units ranging from 1 to 30.
Examples that may be mentioned include hexaglyceryl monolaurate,
polyglyceryl-4 isostearate, for instance the product sold under the
name Isolan GI 34 by the company Evonik Goldschmidt, and PEG-30
glyceryl stearate. 9) Optionally polyoxyethylenated
(C.sub.8-C.sub.30)alkyl and poly(C.sub.8-C.sub.30)alkyl ethers of
glycerol that are preferably used are those with a number of
ethylene oxide (EO) units ranging from 0 to 100 and a number of
glycerol units ranging from 1 to 30. Examples that may be mentioned
include Nikkol Batyl Alcohol 100 and Nikkol Chimyl Alcohol 100.
Anionic Surfactants
[0329] The anionic surfactants may be chosen from alkyl ether
sulfates, carboxylates, amino acid derivatives, sulfonates,
isethionates, taurates, sulfosuccinates, alkylsulfoacetates,
phosphates and alkyl phosphates, polypeptides, metal salts of
C.sub.10-C.sub.30 and in particular C.sub.12-C.sub.20 fatty acids,
in particular metal stearates, and mixtures thereof.
1) Examples of (C.sub.8-C.sub.30)alkyl ether sulfates that may be
mentioned include sodium lauryl ether sulfate (70/30
C.sub.12-C.sub.14) (2.2 EO) sold under the names Sipon AOS225 or
Texapon N702 by the company Henkel, ammonium lauryl ether sulfate
(70/30 C.sub.12-C.sub.14) (3 EO) sold under the name Sipon LEA 370
by the company Henkel, ammonium (C.sub.12-C.sub.14) alkyl ether (9
EO) sulfate sold under the name Rhodapex AB/20 by the company
Rhodia Chimie, and the mixture of sodium magnesium lauryl oleyl
ether sulfate sold under the name Empicol BSD 52 by the company
Albright & Wilson. 2) Examples of carboxylates that may be
mentioned include salts (for example alkali metal salts) of
N-acylamino acids, glycol carboxylates, amido ether carboxylates
(AECs) and polyoxyethylenated carboxylic acid salts.
[0330] The surfactant of glycol carboxylate type may be chosen from
alkyl glycol carboxylics or 2-(2-hydroxyalkyloxy acetate), salts
thereof and mixtures thereof. These alkyl glycol carboxylics
comprise a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated aliphatic
and/or aromatic alkyl chain containing from 8 to 18 carbon atoms.
These carboxylics may be neutralized with mineral bases such as
potassium hydroxide or sodium hydroxide.
[0331] Examples of surfactants of glycol carboxylic type that may
be mentioned include sodium lauryl glycol carboxylate or sodium
2-(2-hydroxyalkyloxy acetate) such as the product sold under the
name Beaulight Shaa.RTM. by the company Sanyo, Beaulight
LCA-25N.RTM. or the corresponding acid form Beaulight Shaa (Acid
form).RTM..
[0332] An example of an amido ether carboxylate (AEC) that may be
mentioned is sodium lauryl amido ether carboxylate (3 EO) sold
under the name Akypo Foam 30.RTM. by the company Kao Chemicals.
[0333] Examples of polyoxyethylenated carboxylic acid salts that
may be mentioned include oxyethylenated (6 EO) sodium lauryl ether
carboxylate (65/25/10 C.sub.12-14-16) sold under the name Akypo
Soft 45 NV.RTM. by the company Kao Chemicals, polyoxyethylenated
and carboxymethylated fatty acids of olive oil origin sold under
the name Olivem 400.RTM. by the company Biologia e Tecnologia, and
oxyethylenated (6 EO) sodium tridecyl ether carboxylate sold under
the name Nikkol ECTD-6 NEX.RTM. by the company Nikkol.
3) Amino acid derivatives that may especially be mentioned include
alkali metal salts of amino acids, such as: [0334]
(C.sub.8-C.sub.30)alkoyl sarcosinates, for instance the sodium
lauroyl sarcosinate sold under the name Sarkosyl NL 97.RTM. by the
company Ciba or sold under the name Oramix L30.RTM. by the company
SEPPIC, sodium myristoyl sarcosinate sold under the name Nikkol
Sarcosinate MN.RTM. by the company Nikkol, and sodium palmitoyl
sarcosinate sold under the name Nikkol Sarcosinate PN.RTM. by the
company Nikkol; [0335] (C.sub.8-C.sub.30)alkoyl alaninates, for
instance sodium N-lauroyl N-methyl aminopropionate sold under the
name Sodium Nikkol Alaninate LN30.RTM. by the company Nikkol, or
sold under the name Alanone ALE.RTM. by the company Kawaken, and
triethanolamine N-lauroyl N-methyl alanine sold under the name
Alanone Alta.RTM. by the company Kawaken; [0336]
(C.sub.8-C.sub.30)alkoyl glutamates, for instance triethanolamine
monococoyl glutamate sold under the name Acylglutamate CT-12.RTM.
by the company Ajinomoto, or triethanolamine lauroyl glutamate sold
under the name Acylglutamate LT-12.RTM. by the company Ajinomoto;
[0337] (C.sub.8-C.sub.30)alkoyl aspartates, for instance the
mixture of triethanolamine N-lauroyl aspartate and of
triethanolamine N-myristoyl aspartate, sold under the name
Asparack.RTM. by the company Mitsubishi; [0338] glycine derivatives
((C.sub.8-C.sub.30)alkoyl glycinates), for instance the sodium
N-cocoyl glycinate sold under the names Amilite GCS-12.RTM. and
Amilite GCK 12 by the company Ajinomoto; [0339] citrates such as
citric acid monoesters of C.sub.8-C.sub.30 alcohols, such as the
oxyethylenated (9 mol) citric monoester of cocoyl alcohols sold
under the name Witconol EC 1129 by the company Goldschmidt; [0340]
(C.sub.8-C.sub.30)alkyl galacturonates, such as the sodium
dodecyl-D-galactoside uronate sold by the company Soliance. 4)
Examples of sulfonates that may be mentioned include .alpha.-olefin
sulfonates, for instance the sodium .alpha.-olefin sulfonate
(C.sub.14-16) sold under the name Bio-TergeAS-40.RTM. by the
company Stepan, sold under the names Witconate AOS Protege.RTM. and
Sulframine AOS PH 12.RTM. by the company Witco or sold under the
name Bio-Terge AS-40 CG.RTM. by the company Stepan, and the sodium
secondary olefin sulfonate sold under the name Hostapur SAS 30.RTM.
by the company Clariant. 5) (C.sub.8-C.sub.30)Alkoyl isethionates
that may be mentioned include acylisethionates, for instance sodium
cocoyl isethionate, such as the product sold under the name
Jordapon CI P.RTM. by the company Jordan. 6)
(C.sub.8-C.sub.30)Alkoyl taurates that may be mentioned include the
sodium salt of palm kernel oil methyltaurate sold under the name
Hostapon CT Pate.RTM. by the company Clariant; N-acyl
N-methyltaurates, for instance the sodium N-cocoyl N-methyltaurate
sold under the name Hostapon LT-SF.RTM. by the company Clariant or
sold under the name Nikkol CMT-30-T.RTM. by the company Nikkol, and
the sodium palmitoyl methyltaurate sold under the name Nikkol
PMT.RTM. by the company Nikkol. 7) Examples of sulfosuccinates that
may be mentioned include the oxyethylenated (3 EO) lauryl alcohol
monosulfosuccinate (70/30 C.sub.12/C.sub.14) sold under the names
Setacin 103 Special.RTM. and Rewopol SB-FA 30 K 4.RTM. by the
company Witco, the disodium salt of a C.sub.12-C.sub.14 alkyl
hemisulfosuccinate, sold under the name Setacin F Special
Paste.RTM. by the company Zschimmer Schwarz, the oxyethylenated (2
EO) disodium oleamidosulfosuccinate sold under the name Standapol
SH 135.RTM. by the company Henkel, the oxyethylenated (5 EO)
laurylamide monosulfosuccinate sold under the name LebonA-5000.RTM.
by the company Sanyo, the oxyethylenated (10 EO) disodium salt of
lauryl citrate monosulfosuccinate sold under the name Rewopol SB CS
50.RTM. by the company Witco, and the ricinoleic monoethanolamide
monosulfosuccinate sold under the name Rewoderm S 1333.RTM. by the
company Witco. Polydimethylsiloxane sulfosuccinates may also be
used, such as disodium PEG-12 dimethicone sulfosuccinate sold under
the name Mackanate-DC30 by the company MacIntyre. 8) Examples of
(C.sub.8-C.sub.30)alkyl sulfoacetates that may be mentioned include
the mixture of sodium lauryl sulfoacetate and disodium lauryl ether
sulfosuccinate, sold under the name Stepan-Mild LSB by the company
Stepan. 9) Examples of phosphates and (C.sub.8-C.sub.30)alkyl
phosphates that may be mentioned include monoalkyl phosphates and
dialkyl phosphates, such as the lauryl monophosphate sold under the
name MAP 20.RTM. by the company Kao Chemicals, the potassium salt
of dodecylphosphoric acid, the mixture of monoester and diester
(predominantly diester) sold under the name Crafol AP-31.RTM. by
the company Cognis, the mixture of octylphosphoric acid monoester
and diester sold under the name Crafol AP-20.RTM. by the company
Cognis, the mixture of ethoxylated (7 mol of EO) phosphoric acid
monoester and diester of 2-butyloctanol, sold under the name Isofol
12 7 EO-Phosphate Ester.RTM. by the company Condea, the potassium
or triethanolamine salt of mono(C.sub.12-C.sub.13)alkyl phosphate
sold under the references Arlatone MAP 230K-40.RTM. and Arlatone
MAP 230T-60.RTM. by the company Uniqema, the potassium lauryl
phosphate sold under the name Dermalcare MAP XC-99/09.RTM. by the
company Rhodia Chimie, and the potassium cetyl phosphate sold under
the name Arlatone MAP 160K by the company Uniqema. 10) The
polypeptides are obtained, for example, by condensation of a fatty
chain onto amino acids from cereals and in particular from wheat
and oat. Examples of polypeptides that may be mentioned include the
potassium salt of hydrolysed lauroyl wheat protein, sold under the
name Aminofoam W OR by the company Croda, the triethanolamine salt
of hydrolysed cocoyl soybean protein, sold under the name May-Tein
SY by the company Maybrook, the sodium salt of lauroyl oat amino
acids, sold under the name Proteol Oat by the company SEPPIC,
collagen hydrolysate grafted onto coconut fatty acid, sold under
the name Geliderm 3000 by the company Deutsche Gelatine, and
soybean proteins acylated with hydrogenated coconut acids, sold
under the name Proteol VS 22 by the company SEPPIC. 11) As metal
salts of C.sub.10-C.sub.30 and in particular C.sub.12-C.sub.20
fatty acids, mention may be made in particular of metal stearates,
such as sodium stearate and potassium stearate, and also
polyhydroxystearates.
Silicone Surfactants
[0341] As regards the silicone surfactants, mention may be made of
dimethicone copolyols, which are more particularly oxypropylenated
and/or oxyethylenated polydimethyl methyl siloxanes.
[0342] As examples of dimethicone copolyols, use may be made of
those corresponding more particularly to formula (II) below:
##STR00027##
in which:
[0343] R.sub.1, R.sub.2 and R.sub.3, independently of each other,
represent a C.sub.1-C.sub.6 alkyl radical or a radical
--(CH.sub.2).sub.x--(OCH.sub.2CH.sub.2).sub.y--(OCH.sub.2CH.sub.2CH.sub.2-
).sub.z--OR.sub.4, at least one radical R.sub.1, R.sub.2 or R.sub.3
not being an alkyl radical; R.sub.4 being a hydrogen, a
C.sub.1-C.sub.3 alkyl radical or a C.sub.2-C.sub.4 acyl
radical;
[0344] A is an integer ranging from 0 to 200;
[0345] B is an integer ranging from 0 to 50; on condition that A
and B are not simultaneously equal to zero;
[0346] x is an integer ranging from 1 to 6;
[0347] y is an integer ranging from 1 to 30; and
[0348] z is an integer ranging from 0 to 5.
[0349] Dimethicone copolyols that may be used include those sold
under the names DC 5329, DC 7439-146, DC 2-5695 and Q4-3667 by the
company Dow Corning; KF-6013, KF-6015, KF-6016, KF-6017 (PEG-10
dimethicone) and KF-6028 (PEG-polydimethylsiloxyethyl dimethicone)
by the company Shin-Etsu.
[0350] Use may also be made of: [0351] dimethicone copolyol, such
as the product sold under the name Q2-5220.RTM. by the company Dow
Corning; [0352] the mixture of cyclomethicone/dimethicone copolyol
sold under the name Q2-32250.RTM. by the company Dow Corning; and
[0353] the mixture of dimethicone and PEG/PPG-18/18 dimethicone
sold under the name X-22-6711D by the company Shin-Etsu; [0354] the
mixture of cyclomethicone and dimethicone copolyol sold under the
name DC-5225C by the company Dow Corning; [0355] alkyl dimethicone
copolyols such as the laurylmethicone copolyol sold under the name
Dow Corning 5200 Formulation Aid by the company Dow Corning; cetyl
dimethicone copolyol such as the product sold under the name Abil
EM 90 by the company Evonik Goldschmidt, and the mixture of cetyl
dimethicone copolyol, polyglyceryl (4 mol) isostearate and hexyl
laurate sold under the name Abil WE 09 by the company Evonik
Goldschmidt, or alternatively phosphate-based surfactants.
[0356] Use may also be made of dimethicone copolyol benzoate, such
as the product sold under the names Finsolv SLB 101.RTM. and
201.RTM. by the company Finetex.
[0357] Emulsion surfactants that may also be mentioned include, in
particular for water-in-oil emulsions, crosslinked elastomeric
solid organopolysiloxanes comprising at least one oxyalkylene
group, such as the products obtained according to the procedure of
Examples 3, 4 and 8 of document U.S. Pat. No. 5,412,004 and the
examples of document U.S. Pat. No. 5,811,487, especially the
product of Example 3 (synthetic example) of U.S. Pat. No.
5,412,004, and such as the product sold under the reference KSG 21
by the company Shin-Etsu.
[0358] One or more coemulsifiers, which may be chosen
advantageously from the group comprising polyol alkyl esters, may
also be added thereto. Polyol alkyl esters that may especially be
mentioned include polyethylene glycol esters, for instance PEG-30
dipolyhydroxystearate, such as the product sold under the name
Arlacel P135 by the company ICI.
[0359] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, and
irrespective of the sense of the emulsion, the surfactant(s) are
chosen from nonionic surfactants and silicone surfactants, or
mixtures thereof.
[0360] According to a particularly preferred embodiment, an
emulsion according to the invention, in particular a water-in-oil
emulsion, comprises at least one silicone surfactant chosen from
(alkyl)dimethicone copolyols, alone or as mixtures.
Aqueous Phase
[0361] The composition according to the invention comprises an
aqueous phase.
[0362] The aqueous phase comprises water and optionally at least
one water-soluble solvent.
[0363] In the present invention, the term "water-soluble solvent"
means a compound that is liquid at room temperature and atmospheric
pressure, and that is water-miscible (miscibility with water of
greater than 50% by weight at 25.degree. C. and atmospheric
pressure).
[0364] The composition according to the invention preferentially
comprises at least 10% by weight, in particular from 20% to 70% by
weight and especially from 25% to 60% by weight of aqueous phase,
relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0365] The composition according to the invention preferentially
comprises at least 10% by weight, in particular from 20% to 65% by
weight and especially from 25% to 55% by weight of water, relative
to the total weight of the composition.
[0366] According to one embodiment, the composition may comprise at
least 60% by weight, preferably at least 70% by weight and in
particular at least 75% by weight of water, relative to the total
weight of the aqueous phase.
[0367] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition
comprises a total content of water and volatile oil(s) of greater
than or equal to 40% by weight and in particular greater than or
equal to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the
composition.
[0368] Among the water-soluble solvents that may be used in the
composition in accordance with the invention, mention may be made
especially of monoalcohols containing from 1 to 5 carbon atoms,
such as ethanol and isopropanol, ethylene glycol, ketones
containing three or four carbon atoms, and aldehydes containing
from two to four carbon atoms.
Volatile Oil
[0369] The composition according to the invention may comprise at
least one volatile oil.
[0370] The term "volatile oil" means an oil that can evaporate on
contact with the skin or the lips in less than one hour, at room
temperature and atmospheric pressure. The volatile oils of the
invention are volatile cosmetic oils that are liquid at room
temperature, with a non-zero vapour pressure, at room temperature
and atmospheric pressure, ranging in particular from 0.13 Pa to
40000 Pa, in particular ranging from 1.3 Pa to 13000 Pa and more
particularly ranging from 1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa.
[0371] According to one embodiment, the composition comprises at
least one volatile oil in a content ranging from 0.1% to 30% by
weight, preferably from 0.5% to 25% by weight and in particular
from 1% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the
composition.
[0372] According to one embodiment, the composition comprises at
least one volatile oil in a content of at least 10% by weight,
preferably ranging from 25% to 90% by weight and in particular from
35% to 80% by weight relative to the total weight of volatile and
non-volatile oil(s) present in said composition.
[0373] According to one embodiment, the composition comprises a
mixture of volatile oil(s) and of non-volatile oil(s) in respective
weight contents such that the ratio of the content of volatile
oil(s) to the content of non-volatile oil(s) ranges from 0.7 to 3
and preferably ranges from 0.8 to 2.
[0374] The volatile oil(s) may be chosen from hydrocarbon-based
oils, silicone oils and fluoro oils, and mixtures thereof.
[0375] The term "hydrocarbon-based oil" means an oil formed
essentially from, or even consisting of, carbon and hydrogen atoms,
and optionally oxygen and nitrogen atoms, and not comprising any
silicon or fluorine atoms. A hydrocarbon-based oil may comprise,
for example, alcohol, ester, carboxylic acid, amine and/or amide
groups.
[0376] The term "fluoro oil" means an oil containing at least one
fluorine atom.
[0377] The volatile hydrocarbon-based oil(s), which are preferably
apolar, may have a flash point ranging from 40.degree. C. to
102.degree. C., preferably ranging from 40.degree. C. to 55.degree.
C. and preferentially ranging from 40.degree. C. to 50.degree.
C.
[0378] The hydrocarbon-based volatile oil(s) may be chosen from
hydrocarbon-based volatile oils containing from 8 to 16 carbon
atoms, and mixtures thereof, and especially: [0379] branched
C.sub.8-C.sub.16 alkanes such as C.sub.8-C.sub.16 isoalkanes (also
known as isoparaffins), isododecane, isodecane and isohexadecane,
and, for example, the oils sold under the trade name Isopar or
Permethyl, [0380] linear alkanes, for instance n-dodecane (C12) and
n-tetradecane (C14) sold by Sasol under the respective references
Parafol 12-97 and Parafol 14-97, and also mixtures thereof, the
undecane-tridecane mixture (Cetiol UT), the mixtures of n-undecane
(C11) and of n-tridecane (C13) obtained in Examples 1 and 2 of
patent application WO 2008/155 059 from the company Cognis, and
[0381] mixtures thereof.
[0382] The volatile silicone oil(s) may be chosen from silicone
oils with a flash point ranging from 40.degree. C. to 102.degree.
C., preferably with a flash point of greater than 55.degree. C. and
less than or equal to 95.degree. C., and preferentially ranging
from 65.degree. C. to 95.degree. C.
[0383] As volatile silicone oils that may be used in the invention,
mention may be made of linear or cyclic silicones with a viscosity
at 25.degree. C. of less than 8 centistokes (cSt)
(8.times.10.sup.-6 m.sup.2/s), and in particular containing from 2
to 10 silicon atoms and in particular from 2 to 7 silicon atoms,
these silicones optionally comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups
containing from 1 to 10 carbon atoms.
[0384] As volatile silicone oils that may be used in the invention,
mention may be made especially of dimethicones with viscosities of
2, 5 and 6 cSt, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane,
decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane,
heptamethylhexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyltrisiloxane,
hexamethyldisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane,
decamethyltetrasiloxane and dodecamethylpentasiloxane, and mixtures
thereof.
[0385] The volatile oil(s) may also be a fluoro oil, such as
nonafluoromethoxybutane or perfluoromethylcyclopentane, and
mixtures thereof.
Pasty Compound
[0386] The composition according to the invention also comprises at
least one hydrocarbon-based or silicone-based compound that is
pasty at 23.degree. C.
[0387] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "pasty
compound" means a water-immiscible compound with a reversible
solid/liquid change of state, having in the solid state an
anisotropic crystal organization, and comprising at a temperature
of 23.degree. C. a liquid fraction and a solid fraction. In other
words, the starting melting point of the pasty compound can be less
than 23.degree. C. The liquid fraction of the pasty compound,
measured at 23.degree. C., can represent from 9% to 97% by weight
of the pasty compound. This liquid fraction at 23.degree. C.
preferably represents between 15% and 85% and more preferably
between 40% and 85% by weight.
[0388] For the purposes of the invention, the melting point
corresponds to the temperature of the most endothermic peak
observed in thermal analysis (DSC) as described in the standard ISO
11357-3; 1999. The melting point of a pasty compound may be
measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for
example the calorimeter sold under the name MDSC 2920 by the
company TA Instruments.
[0389] The measuring protocol is as follows: a sample of 5 mg of
pasty compound placed in a crucible is subjected to a first
temperature rise ranging from -20.degree. C. to 100.degree. C., at
a heating rate of 10.degree. C./minute, is then cooled from
100.degree. C. to -20.degree. C. at a cooling rate of 10.degree.
C./minute and is finally subjected to a second temperature rise
ranging from -20.degree. C. to 100.degree. C. at a heating rate of
5.degree. C./minute. During the second temperature rise, the
variation in the difference in power absorbed by the empty crucible
and by the crucible containing the sample of pasty fatty substance
is measured as a function of the temperature. The melting point of
the pasty compound is the temperature value corresponding to the
top of the peak of the curve representing the variation in the
difference in power absorbed as a function of the temperature.
[0390] The liquid fraction by weight of the pasty compound at
23.degree. C. is equal to the ratio of the heat of fusion consumed
at 23.degree. C. to the heat of fusion of the pasty compound.
[0391] The heat of fusion (expressed in J/g) of the pasty compound
is the amount of energy required to make the compound change from
the solid state to the liquid state. The pasty compound is said to
be in the solid state when all of its mass is in crystalline solid
form. The pasty compound is said to be in the liquid state when all
of its mass is in liquid form. The heat of fusion consumed at
23.degree. C. is the amount of energy absorbed by the sample to
change from the solid state to the state that it has at 2.degree.
C., consisting of a liquid fraction and a solid fraction.
[0392] The heat of fusion of the pasty compound is equal to the
area under the curve of the thermogram obtained using a
differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), such as the calorimeter
sold under the name MDSC 2920 by the company TA Instrument, with a
temperature rise of 5.degree. C. or 10.degree. C. per minute,
according to the standard ISO 11357-3; 1999.
[0393] The liquid fraction of the pasty compound measured at
32.degree. C. preferably represents from 30% to 100% by weight of
the pasty compound, preferably from 50% to 100% and more preferably
from 60% to 100% by weight of the pasty compound. When the liquid
fraction of the pasty compound measured at 32.degree. C. is equal
to 100%, the temperature of the end of the melting range of the
pasty compound is less than or equal to 32.degree. C.
[0394] The liquid fraction of the pasty compound measured at
32.degree. C. is equal to the ratio of the heat of fusion consumed
at 32.degree. C. to the heat of fusion of the pasty compound. The
heat of fusion consumed at 32.degree. C. is calculated in the same
way as the heat of fusion consumed at 23.degree. C.
[0395] The pasty compound(s) may in particular be chosen from
synthetic pasty compounds and fatty substances of plant origin. The
pasty compound(s) may be hydrocarbon-based or silicone-based.
[0396] The pasty compound(s) may be chosen in particular from:
[0397] lanolin and derivatives thereof, such as lanolin alcohol,
oxyethylenated lanolins, acetylated lanolin, lanolin esters such as
isopropyl lanolate, and oxypropylenated lanolins, [0398] petroleum
jelly (also known as petrolatum), [0399] polyol ethers chosen from
C.sub.2-C.sub.4 polyalkylene glycol pentaerythrityl ethers, fatty
alcohol ethers of sugars, and mixtures thereof. For example,
mention may be made of polyethylene glycol pentaerythrityl ether
comprising 5 oxyethylene units (5 OE) (CTFA name: PPG-5
Pentaerythrityl Ether), polypropylene glycol pentaerythrityl ether
comprising five oxypropylene (5 OP) units (CTFA name: PPG-5
Pentaerythrityl Ether) and mixtures thereof, and more especially
the mixture PEG-5 Pentaerythrityl Ether, PPG-5 Pentaerythrityl
Ether and soybean oil, sold under the name Lanolide by the company
Vevy, which is a mixture in which the constituents are in a 46/46/8
weight ratio: 46% PEG-5 Pentaerythrityl Ether, 46% PPG-5
Pentaerythrityl Ether and 8% soybean oil, [0400] polymeric or
non-polymeric silicone compounds, [0401] polymeric or non-polymeric
fluoro compounds, [0402] vinyl polymers, especially: [0403] olefin
homopolymers and copolymers, [0404] hydrogenated diene homopolymers
and copolymers, [0405] linear or branched oligomers, which are
homopolymers or copolymers of alkyl (meth)acrylates preferably
containing a C.sub.8-C.sub.30 alkyl group, [0406] oligomers, which
are homopolymers and copolymers of vinyl esters containing
C.sub.8-C.sub.30 alkyl groups, and [0407] oligomers, which are
homopolymers and copolymers of vinyl esters containing
C.sub.8-C.sub.30 alkyl groups, [0408] liposoluble polyethers
resulting from the polyetherification between one or more
C.sub.2-C.sub.100 and preferably C.sub.2-C.sub.50 diols. Among the
liposoluble polyethers that are particularly considered are
copolymers of ethylene oxide and/or of propylene oxide with
C.sub.6-C.sub.30 long-chain alkylene oxides, more preferably such
that the weight ratio of the ethylene oxide and/or of the propylene
oxide to the alkylene oxides in the copolymer is from 5:95 to
70:30. In this family, mention will be made especially of
copolymers such as long-chain alkylene oxides arranged in blocks
with an average molecular weight from 1000 to 10000, for example a
polyoxyethylene/polydodecyl glycol block copolymer such as the
ethers of dodecanediol (22 mol) and of polyethylene glycol (45 OE)
sold under the brand name Elfacos ST9 by Akzo Nobel, [0409] esters
and polyesters. Among the esters, the following are especially
considered: [0410] esters of a glycerol oligomer, especially
diglycerol esters, with linear or branched, saturated or
unsaturated, preferably saturated, C.sub.6-C.sub.20, optionally
hydroxylated monocarboxylic acids, and/or linear or branched,
saturated or unsaturated, preferably saturated, C.sub.6-C.sub.10
dicarboxylic acids, in particular condensates of adipic acid and of
diglycerol, for which some of the hydroxyl groups of the glycerols
have reacted with a mixture of fatty acids such as stearic acid,
capric acid, isostearic acid and 12-hydroxystearic acid, for
instance bis-diglyceryl polyacyladipate-2 sold under the reference
Softisan.RTM. 649 by the company Sasol, [0411] vinyl ester
homopolymers bearing C.sub.8-C.sub.30 alkyl groups, such as
polyvinyl laurate (sold especially under the reference Mexomer PP
by the company Chimex), [0412] the arachidyl propionate sold under
the brand name Waxenol 801 by Alzo, [0413] phytosterol esters,
[0414] fatty acid triglycerides and derivatives thereof, in
particular optionally hydrogenated (totally or partially),
optionally monohydroxylated or polyhydroxylated, C.sub.6-C.sub.30
and more particularly C.sub.8-C.sub.18, linear or branched,
saturated or unsaturated fatty acid triglycerides; for example
Softisan 100.RTM. sold by the company Sasol, [0415] pentaerythritol
esters, [0416] aliphatic esters resulting from the esterification
of an aliphatic hydroxycarboxylic acid ester with an aliphatic
carboxylic acid. More particularly, the aliphatic carboxylic acid
is of C.sub.4-C.sub.30 and preferably of C.sub.8-C.sub.30. It is
preferably chosen from hexanoic, heptanoic, octanoic,
2-ethylhexanoic, nonanoic, decanoic, undecanoic, dodecanoic,
tridecanoic, tetradecanoic, pentadecanoic, hexadecenoic,
hexyldecanoic, heptadecanoic, octadecanoic, isostearic,
nonadecanoic, eicosanoic, isoarachidic, octyldodecanoic,
heneicosanoic and docosanoic acids, and mixtures thereof. The
aliphatic carboxylic acid is preferably branched. The hydroxy
carboxylic acid ester is advantageously derived from a
C.sub.2-C.sub.40, preferably C.sub.10-C.sub.34 and even more
preferentially C.sub.12-C.sub.28 hydroxylated carboxylic acid; the
number of hydroxyl groups being between 1 and 20, more particularly
between 1 and 10 and preferably between 1 and 6. [0417] Said
hydroxy carboxylic acid esters are preferably chosen from: [0418]
a) total or partial esters of saturated, linear and
monohydroxylated aliphatic monocarboxylic acids; [0419] b) total or
partial esters of saturated, monohydroxylated aliphatic
monocarboxylic acids; [0420] c) total or partial esters of
saturated, monohydroxylated aliphatic polycarboxylic acids; [0421]
d) total or partial esters of saturated, polyhydroxylated aliphatic
polycarboxylic acids; [0422] e) partial or total esters of
C.sub.2-C.sub.16 aliphatic polyols with a monohydroxylated or
polyhydroxylated aliphatic monocarboxylic or polycarboxylic acid;
[0423] f) mixtures thereof; [0424] esters of a diol dimer and of a
diacid dimer, where appropriate esterified on their free alcohol or
acid function(s) with acid or alcohol radicals, especially dimer
dilinoleate esters; such esters may be chosen especially from the
esters having the following INCI nomenclature:
bis-behenyl/isostearyl/phytosteryl dimer dilinoleyl dimer
dilinoleate (Plandool G),
phytosteryl/isosteryl/cetyl/stearyl/behenyl dimer dilinoleate
(Plandool H or Plandool S), and mixtures thereof, [0425]
hydrogenated esters of rosin (Lusplan DD-DHR or DD-DHR from Nippon
Fine Chemical); [0426] butters of plant origin, such as mango
butter, such as the product sold under the reference Lipex 203 by
the company Aarhuskarlshamn, shea butter, in particular the product
whose INCI name is Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, such as the product
sold under the reference Sheasoft.RTM. by the company
Aarhuskarlshamn, cupuacu butter (Rain Forest RF3410 from the
company Beraca Sabara), murumuru butter (Rain Forest RF3710 from
the company Beraca Sabara), cocoa butter; babassu butter such as
the product sold under the name Cropure Babassu SS-(LK) by Croda,
and also orange wax, for instance the product sold under the
reference Orange Peel Wax by the company Koster Keunen, [0427]
totally or partially hydrogenated plant oils, for instance
hydrogenated soybean oil, hydrogenated coconut oil, hydrogenated
rapeseed oil, mixtures of hydrogenated plant oils such as the
mixture of hydrogenated soybean, coconut, palm and rapeseed plant
oil, for example the mixture sold under the reference Akogel.RTM.
by the company Aarhuskarlshamn (INCI name Hydrogenated Vegetable
Oil), the trans-isomerized partially hydrogenated jojoba oil
manufactured or sold by the company Desert Whale under the
commercial reference Iso-Jojoba-50.RTM., partially hydrogenated
olive oil, for instance the compound sold under the reference
Beurrolive by the company Soliance, [0428] hydrogenated castor oil
esters, such as hydrogenated castor oil dimer dilinoleate, for
example Risocast DA-L sold by Kokyu Alcohol Kogyo, and hydrogenated
castor oil isostearate, for example Salacos HCIS (V-L) sold by
Nisshin Oil, [0429] and mixtures thereof.
[0430] Preferably, the pasty compound(s) that are suitable for use
in the invention are chosen from hydrocarbon-based compounds, in
particular chosen from petroleum jelly, polyol ethers, vinyl
polymers, liposoluble polyethers resulting from polyetherification
between one or more C.sub.2-C.sub.50 diols, esters and polyesters,
butters of plant origin, totally or partially hydrogenated plant
oils, and mixtures thereof.
[0431] In accordance with an even more preferred embodiment of the
invention, the pasty compound(s) are chosen from: [0432] petroleum
jelly; [0433] pentaerythrityl ethers of C.sub.2-C.sub.4
polyalkylene glycol; [0434] fatty acid ethers of sugars; [0435]
copolymers of ethylene oxide and/or of propylene oxide with
C.sub.6-C.sub.30 long-chain alkylene oxides; [0436] esters of a
glycerol oligomer, especially esters of diglycerol, with linear or
branched, saturated or unsaturated, preferably saturated,
C.sub.6-C.sub.20, optionally hydroxylated monocarboxylic acids,
and/or linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, preferably
saturated, C.sub.6-C.sub.10 dicarboxylic acids; [0437] vinyl ester
homopolymers bearing C.sub.8-C.sub.30 alkyl groups; [0438]
arachidyl propionate; [0439] saturated or unsaturated, linear or
branched, optionally monohydroxylated or polyhydroxylated,
C.sub.6-C.sub.30, more particularly C.sub.8-C.sub.18, optionally
hydrogenated fatty acid triglycerides; [0440] pentaerythritol
esters; [0441] non-crosslinked esters obtained by condensation of a
linear or branched C.sub.4-C.sub.50 dicarboxylic or polycarboxylic
acid and of a C.sub.2-C.sub.50 diol or polyol, the aliphatic esters
obtained by reaction of an ester of a hydroxycarboxylic acid and of
an aliphatic carboxylic acid, the carboxylic acid advantageously
being C.sub.4-C.sub.30; [0442] esters of a diol dimer and of a
diacid dimer, for instance dilinoleate dimer esters; [0443] butters
of plant origin; [0444] totally or partially hydrogenated plant
oils; [0445] and mixtures thereof.
[0446] According to one embodiment, the composition according to
the invention comprises at least one pasty compound in a content of
greater than 0.5% by weight, preferably in a content ranging from
2% to 20% by weight, in particular from 2% to 15% by weight and
more advantageously from 2% to 10% by weight, relative to the total
weight of the composition.
Polyols
[0447] The composition according to the invention may comprise at
least one polyol, more particularly a saturated or unsaturated,
linear or branched C.sub.2-C.sub.8 and preferably C.sub.3-C.sub.6
polyol that is liquid at room temperature, comprising from 2 to 6
hydroxyl groups.
[0448] Preferably, the polyol is chosen from glycerol, diglycerol,
linear or branched, saturated C.sub.3-C.sub.8 glycols, in
particular propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol,
caprylyl glycol or dipropylene glycol, and also mixtures thereof,
and preferably glycerol, propylene glycol or butylene glycol, and
mixtures thereof.
[0449] In accordance with a preferred embodiment of the invention,
the second oily phase comprises at least glycerol as polyol.
[0450] If it comprises any, the composition according to the
invention has a content of polyol(s) particularly between 4% and
10% by weight and preferably from 6% to 8% by weight relative to
the weight of the composition.
Colouring Substances
[0451] The composition according to the invention may also comprise
at least one colouring substance chosen especially from
water-soluble or liposoluble dyestuffs, pigments and nacres, and
mixtures thereof. Advantageously, the amount of such colouring
substance(s) is lower or equal to 10% by weight relative to the
weight of the composition, if present therein.
[0452] The term "colouring substance" means a compound that is
capable of producing a coloured optical effect when it is
formulated in sufficient amount in a suitable cosmetic medium.
[0453] The water-soluble colouring substances used according to the
invention are more particularly water-soluble dyes.
[0454] For the purposes of the invention, the term "water-soluble
dye" means any natural or synthetic, generally organic compound,
which is soluble in an aqueous phase or water-miscible solvents and
which is capable of imparting colour. In particular, the term
"water-soluble" is intended to characterize the capacity of a
compound to be dissolved in water, measured at 25.degree. C., to a
concentration at least equal to 0.1 g/L (production of a
macroscopically isotropic, transparent, coloured or colourless
solution). This solubility is in particular greater than or equal
to 1 g/L.
[0455] As water-soluble dyes that are suitable for use in the
invention, mention may be made especially of synthetic or natural
water-soluble dyes, for instance FDC Red 4 (CI: 14700), DC Red 6
(Lithol Rubine Na; CI: 15850), DC Red 22 (CI: 45380), DC Red 27
(CI: 45410 Na salt), DC Red 30 (CI: 73360), DC Red 33 (CI: 17200),
DC Orange 4 (CI: 15510), FDC Yellow 5 (CI: 19140), FDC Yellow 6
(CI: 15985), DC Yellow 8 (CI: 45350 Na salt), FDC Green 3 (CI:
42053), DC Green 5 (CI: 61570), FDC Blue 1 (CI: 42090).
[0456] As non-limiting illustrations of sources of water-soluble
colouring substance(s) that may be used in the context of the
present invention, mention may be made in particular of those of
natural origin, such as extracts of cochineal carmine, of beetroot,
of grape, of carrot, of tomato, of annatto, of paprika, of henna,
of caramel and of curcumin.
[0457] Thus, the water-soluble colouring substances that are
suitable for use in the invention are especially carminic acid,
betanin, anthocyans, enocyanins, lycopene, .beta.-carotene, bixin,
norbixin, capsanthin, capsorubin, flavoxanthin, lutein,
cryptoxanthin, rubixanthin, violaxanthin, riboflavin, rhodoxanthin,
cantaxanthin and chlorophyll, and mixtures thereof.
[0458] They may also be copper sulfate, iron sulfate, water-soluble
sulfopolyesters, rhodamine, betaine, methylene blue, the disodium
salt of tartrazine and the disodium salt of fuchsin.
[0459] Some of these water-soluble colouring substances are in
particular permitted for food use. Representatives of these dyes
that may be mentioned more particularly include dyes of the
carotenoid family, referenced under the food codes E120, E162,
E163, E160a-g, E150a, E101, E100, E140 and E141.
[0460] According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the
water-soluble colouring substance(s) are chosen from the disodium
salt of brilliant yellow FCF sold by the company LCW under the name
DC Yellow 6, the disodium salt of fuchsin acid D sold by the
company LCW under the name DC Red 33, and the trisodium salt of
Rouge Allura sold by the company LCW under the name FD & C Red
40.
[0461] The colouring substance(s) used in the context of the
present invention may also be chosen from pigments.
[0462] The term "pigments" should be understood as meaning white or
coloured, inorganic (mineral) or organic particles, which are
insoluble in the liquid organic phase, and which are intended to
colour and/or opacify the composition and/or the deposit produced
with the composition.
[0463] The pigments may be chosen from mineral pigments, organic
pigments and composite pigments (i.e. pigments based on mineral
and/or organic materials).
[0464] The pigments may be chosen from monochromatic pigments,
lakes, nacres, and pigments with an optical effect, for instance
reflective pigments and goniochromatic pigments.
[0465] The coated or uncoated mineral pigments may be chosen from
metal oxide pigments, chromium oxides, iron oxides, titanium
dioxide, zinc oxides, cerium oxides, zirconium oxides, manganese
violet, Prussian blue, ultramarine blue and ferric blue, and
mixtures thereof.
[0466] Organic lakes are organic pigments formed from a dye
attached to a substrate. The lakes, which are also known as organic
pigments, may be chosen from: [0467] cochineal carmine; [0468]
organic pigments of azo dyes, anthraquinone dyes, indigoid dyes,
xanthene dyes, pyrene dyes, quinoline dyes, triphenylmethane dyes
or fluoran dyes. Among the organic pigments that may in particular
be mentioned are those known under the following names: D&C
Blue No. 4, D&C Brown No. 1, D&C Green No. 5, D&C Green
No. 6, D&C Orange No. 4, D&C Orange No. 5, D&C Orange
No. 10, D&C Orange No. 11, D&C Red No. 6, D&C Red No.
7, D&C Red No. 17, D&C Red No. 21, D&C Red No. 22,
D&C Red No. 27, D&C Red No. 28, D&C Red No. 30, D&C
Red No. 31, D&C Red No. 33, D&C Red No. 34, D&C Red No.
36, D&C Violet No. 2, D&C Yellow No. 7, D&C Yellow No.
8, D&C Yellow No. 10, D&C Yellow No. 11, FD&C Blue No.
1, FD&C Green No. 3, FD&C Red No. 40, FD&C Yellow No.
5, FD&C Yellow No. 6; [0469] insoluble sodium, potassium,
calcium, barium, aluminium, zirconium, strontium or titanium salts
of acid dyes such as azo, anthraquinone, indigoid, xanthene,
pyrene, quinoline, triphenylmethane or fluoran dyes, these dyes
possibly comprising at least one carboxylic or sulfonic acid group;
and [0470] mixtures thereof.
[0471] The organic lakes may also be supported on an organic
support such as rosin or aluminium benzoate, for example.
[0472] Among the organic lakes, mention may be made in particular
of those known under the following names: D&C Red No. 2
Aluminium lake, D&C Red No. 3 Aluminium lake, D&C Red No. 4
Aluminium lake, D&C Red No. 6 Aluminium lake, D&C Red No. 6
Barium lake, D&C Red No. 6 Barium/Strontium lake, D&C Red
No. 6 Strontium lake, D&C Red No. 6 Potassium lake, D&C Red
No. 7 Aluminium lake, D&C Red No. 7 Barium lake, D&C Red
No. 7 Calcium lake, D&C Red No. 7 Calcium/Strontium lake,
D&C Red No. 7 Zirconium lake, D&C Red No. 8 Sodium lake,
D&C Red No. 9 Aluminium lake, D&C Red No. 9 Barium lake,
D&C Red No. 9 Barium/Strontium lake, D&C Red No. 9
Zirconium lake, D&C Red No. 10 Sodium lake, D&C Red No. 19
Aluminium lake, D&C Red No. 19 Barium lake, D&C Red No. 19
Zirconium lake, D&C Red No. 21 Aluminium lake, D&C Red No.
21 Zirconium lake, D&C Red No. 22 Aluminium lake, D&C Red
No. 27 Aluminium lake, D&C Red No. 27
Aluminium/Titanium/Zirconium lake, D&C Red No. 27 Barium lake,
D&C Red No. 27 Calcium lake, D&C Red No. 27 Zirconium lake,
D&C Red No. 28 Aluminium lake, D&C Red No. 30 lake, D&C
Red No. 31 Calcium lake, D&C Red No. 33 Aluminium lake, D&C
Red No. 34 Calcium lake, D&C Red No. 36 lake, D&C Red No.
40 Aluminium lake, D&C Blue No. 1 Aluminium lake, D&C Green
No. 3 Aluminium lake, D&C Orange No. 4 Aluminium lake, D&C
Orange No. 5 Aluminium lake, D&C Orange No. 5 Zirconium lake,
D&C Orange No. 10 Aluminium lake, D&C Orange No. 17 Barium
lake, D&C Yellow No. 5 Aluminium lake, D&C Yellow No. 5
Zirconium lake, D&C Yellow No. 6 Aluminium lake, D&C Yellow
No. 7 Zirconium lake, D&C Yellow No. 10 Aluminium lake,
FD&C Blue No. 1 Aluminium lake, FD&C Red No. 4 Aluminium
lake, FD&C Red No. 40 Aluminium lake, FD&C Yellow No. 5
Aluminium lake, FD&C Yellow No. 6 Aluminium lake.
[0473] Mention may also be made of liposoluble dyes, such as, for
example, Sudan Red, DC Red 17, DC Green 6, .beta.-carotene, soybean
oil, Sudan Brown, DC Yellow 11, DC Violet 2, DC Orange 5 and
quinoline yellow.
[0474] The chemical substances corresponding to each of the organic
colouring substances cited above are mentioned in the publication
"International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook", 1997
edition, pages 371 to 386 and 524 to 528, published by The
Cosmetic, Toiletries and Fragrance Association, the content of
which is incorporated into the present patent application by way of
reference.
[0475] The pigments may also have been subjected to a hydrophobic
treatment.
[0476] The hydrophobic treatment agent may be chosen from silicones
such as methicones, dimethicones, alkoxylsilanes and
perfluoroalkylsilanes; fatty acids such as stearic acid; metal
soaps such as aluminium dimyristate, the aluminium salt of
hydrogenated tallow glutamate, perfluoroalkyl phosphates,
perfluoroalkylsilanes, perfluoroalkylsilazanes,
polyhexafluoropropylene oxides, polyorganosiloxanes comprising
perfluoroalkyl perfluoropolyether groups and amino acids;
N-acylamino acids or salts thereof; lecithin, isopropyl
triisostearyl titanate, and mixtures thereof.
[0477] The N-acylamino acids can comprise an acyl group containing
from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, for instance a 2-ethylhexanoyl, caproyl,
lauroyl, myristoyl, palmitoyl, stearoyl or cocoyl group. The salts
of these compounds can be the aluminium, magnesium, calcium,
zirconium, zinc, sodium or potassium salts. The amino acid may be,
for example, lysine, glutamic acid or alanine.
[0478] The term "alkyl" mentioned in the compounds cited above
especially denotes an alkyl group containing from 1 to 30 carbon
atoms and preferably containing from 5 to 16 carbon atoms.
[0479] Hydrophobic-treated pigments are described especially in
patent application EP-A-1 086 683.
[0480] For the purposes of the present patent application, the term
"nacre" means coloured particles of any form, which may or may not
be iridescent, especially produced by certain molluscs in their
shell, or alternatively synthesized, and which have a colour effect
via optical interference.
[0481] Examples of nacres that may be mentioned include nacreous
pigments such as titanium mica coated with an iron oxide, mica
coated with bismuth oxychloride, titanium mica coated with chromium
oxide, titanium mica coated with an organic dye in particular of
the abovementioned type, and also nacreous pigments based on
bismuth oxychloride. They may also be mica particles, at the
surface of which are superposed at least two successive layers of
metal oxides and/or of organic dyestuffs.
[0482] The nacres may more particularly have a yellow, pink, red,
bronze, orangey, brown, gold and/or coppery colour or tint.
[0483] As illustrations of nacres that may be introduced as
interference pigments into the first composition, mention may be
made of the gold-coloured nacres sold in particular by the company
Engelhard under the name Brilliant gold 212G (Timica), Gold 222C
(Cloisonne), Sparkle gold (Timica), Gold 4504 (Chromalite) and
Monarch gold 233X (Cloisonne); the bronze nacres sold in particular
by the company Merck under the name Bronze fine (17384) (Colorona)
and Bronze (17353) (Colorona) and by the company Engelhard under
the name Super bronze (Cloisonne); the orange nacres sold in
particular by the company Engelhard under the name Orange 363C
(Cloisonne) and Orange MCR 101 (Cosmica) and by the company Merck
under the name Passion orange (Colorona) and Matte orange (17449)
(Microna); the brown nacres sold in particular by the company
Engelhard under the name Nu-antique copper 340X6 (Cloisonne) and
Brown CL4509 (Chromalite); the nacres with a copper tint sold in
particular by the company Engelhard under the name Copper 340A
(Timica); the nacres with a red tint sold in particular by the
company Merck under the name Sienna fine (17386) (Colorona); the
nacres with a yellow tint sold in particular by the company
Engelhard under the name Yellow (4502) (Chromalite); the red nacres
with a gold tint sold in particular by the company Engelhard under
the name Sunstone G012 (Gemtone); the pink nacres sold in
particular by the company Engelhard under the name Tan opale G005
(Gemtone); the black nacres with a gold tint sold in particular by
the company Engelhard under the name Nu antique bronze 240 AB
(Timica), the blue nacres sold in particular by the company Merck
under the name Matte blue (17433) (Microna), the white nacres with
a silvery tint sold in particular by the company Merck under the
name Xirona Silver, and the golden-green pink-orange nacres sold in
particular by the company Merck under the name Indian summer
(Xirona), and mixtures thereof.
Additives
[0484] The composition according to the invention may also comprise
any additive chosen by a person skilled in the art such that the
advantageous properties intrinsically associated with the
compositions in accordance with the invention are not, or not
substantially, adversely affected by the envisaged addition(s).
[0485] As additives that may be incorporated into the compositions
in accordance with the invention, mention may be made especially of
hydrophilic thickeners, hydrophobic thickeners, fillers of organic
or mineral nature, emollients, humectants other than the
abovementioned polyols, stabilizers, preserving agents, pigment
dispersers, film-forming agents other than those according to the
invention, and organic solvents.
[0486] As examples of hydrophilic thickening polymers, mention may
be made more particularly of: [0487] acrylic or methacrylic acid
homopolymers or copolymers or salts and esters thereof and in
particular the products sold under the names Versicol F or Versicol
K by the company Allied Colloid, Ultrahold 8 by the company
Ciba-Geigy, and polyacrylic acids of Synthalen K type, and salts,
in particular sodium salts, of polyacrylic acid (corresponding to
the INCI name sodium acrylate copolymer) and more particularly a
crosslinked sodium polyacrylate (corresponding to the INCI name
sodium acrylate copolymer (and) caprylic/capric triglyceride) sold
under the name Luvigel EM by the company BASF, [0488] copolymers of
acrylic acid and of acrylamide sold in the form of the sodium salt
thereof under the name Reten by the company Hercules, the sodium
polymethacrylate sold under the name Darvan No. 7 by the company
Vanderbilt, and the sodium salts of polyhydroxycarboxylic acids
sold under the name Hydagen F by the company Henkel, [0489]
polyacrylic acid/alkyl acrylate copolymers, preferably modified or
unmodified carboxyvinyl polymers, particularly
acrylate/C.sub.10-C.sub.30-alkylacrylate copolymers (INCI name:
Acrylates/C.sub.10-C.sub.30 Alkyl acrylate Crosspolymer) such as
the products sold by the company Lubrizol under the trade names
Pemulen TR1, Pemulen TR2, Carbopol 1382 and Carbopol EDT 2020, and
even more preferentially Pemulen TR-2, [0490]
polyacrylamidomethylpropanesulfonic acid partially neutralized with
aqueous ammonia and highly crosslinked, sold by the company
Clariant, [0491] acrylamidopropanesulfonic/acrylamide copolymers of
Sepigel or Simulgel type sold by the company SEPPIC, [0492]
polyoxyethylenated acrylamidopropanesulfonic/alkyl methacrylate
copolymers (crosslinked or non-crosslinked) of the Aristoflex HMS
type sold by the company Clariant, [0493] copolymers of
hydroxyalkylacrylic acid or salts thereof and of acryloyldimethyl
taurate monomers such as the product Sepinov EMT 10 sold by the
company SEPPIC, [0494] and mixtures thereof.
[0495] Other examples of hydrophilic gelling polymers that may be
mentioned include: [0496] anionic, cationic, amphoteric or nonionic
chitin or chitosan polymers; [0497] cellulose polymers, for
instance alkylcelluloses such as hydroxyethylcellulose,
hydroxypropylcellulose, hydroxymethylcellulose,
ethylhydroxyethylcellulose and carboxymethylcellulose, and also
quaternized cellulose derivatives; [0498] vinyl polymers, for
instance polyvinylpyrrolidones, copolymers of methyl vinyl ether
and of malic anhydride, the copolymer of vinyl acetate and of
crotonic acid, copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and of vinyl acetate;
copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and of caprolactam; polyvinyl
alcohol; [0499] optionally modified polymers of natural origin,
such as galactomannans and derivatives thereof, for instance konjac
gum, gellan gum, locust bean gum, fenugreek gum, karaya gum, gum
tragacanth, gum arabic, acacia gum, guar gum, hydroxypropyl guar,
hydroxypropyl guar modified with sodium methylcarboxylate groups
(Jaguar XC97-1, Rhodia), hydroxypropyltrimethylammonium guar
chloride, and xanthan gum and derivatives thereof; [0500] alginates
and carrageenans; [0501] muccopolysaccharides such as hyaluronic
acid; [0502] and mixtures thereof.
[0503] If the composition comprises any, the content of hydrophilic
thickener ranges from 0.01% to 3% by weight, preferably from 0.05%
to 2% by weight and more advantageously from 0.1% to 1% by weight
relative to the weight of the composition.
[0504] The term "filler" should be understood as meaning colourless
or white solid particles of any shape, which are in a form that is
insoluble and dispersed in the medium of the composition. They are
different from the dyestuffs and make it possible especially to
thicken the lipophilic phase of the composition according to the
invention.
[0505] Among the fillers that may be used in the compositions
according to the invention, mention may be made, for instance, of
silica, kaolin, bentone, starch, lauroyllysine, and fumed silica
particles, optionally hydrophilically or hydrophobically treated,
and mixtures thereof.
[0506] A composition used according to the invention may comprise
one or more fillers in a content ranging from 0.1% to 15% by weight
and in particular from 1% to 10% by weight relative to the total
weight of the composition.
Device
[0507] The composition according to the invention may be
conditioned in any type of device that is common for fluid cosmetic
compositions intended especially to be applied to the lips.
[0508] It may thus be envisaged to use devices containing a
container comprising an applicator equipped with a ball (roll-on),
a container of dispensing pen type, terminated with an end provided
with at least one orifice through which the composition may be
expelled, or alternatively terminated with a felt or with a flocked
tip, or with a brush; a container comprising a dip applicator, for
instance a brush.
[0509] Such devices may or may not be provided with a mechanism for
dispensing the composition making it possible to expel said
composition from the container to the application member, or to the
support. It should be noted that this mechanism may advantageously
comprise a means for metering out the composition.
[0510] According to a particularly advantageous embodiment of the
invention, the composition is packaged in a container and is
applied by means of an application member having a porous
application surface.
[0511] The application member may be entirely porous, i.e. the
composition may cross from an internal surface of the application
member to an external surface of the application member, or vice
versa.
[0512] The application member may in particular consist of one or
more open-cell or semi-open-cell foams.
[0513] Thus, the application member may be made up of one of at
least two portions of foam, of different compressibilities, which
can be adhesively bonded together.
[0514] The foam may be non-crosslinked or preferentially
crosslinked.
[0515] Still preferentially, the foam(s) are elastically
compressible. The term "elastically compressible" is intended to
mean that, starting from a position deformed by a pressure exerted
on its surface, the foam returns to its initial shape when the
pressure is released.
[0516] With such materials, the releasing of the composition on the
surface to be treated takes place either by capillary action on
contact with the lips, or by expulsion of the composition, from the
pores of the applicator, in response to a slight deformation (by
pressure) of said applicator on the surface to be treated.
[0517] The application member may have a cylindrical shape and may
have a circular cross section. As a variant, the application member
may have any other shape, for example conical, flattened-cone,
nose-cone or prism shape, and can have an oval, rectangular or
polygonal cross section. It may also comprise a bevelled portion
and/or a concave portion forming a hollow on the application
surface. The application member may be symmetrical or asymmetrical
relative to a longitudinal plane of said application member.
[0518] The visible part of the application member may have a cross
section which falls within a circle advantageously having a
diameter of between 2 mm and 20 mm, and preferably between 5 mm and
15 mm. The visible part of the application member, in the
non-compressed position, may be between 2 mm and 20 mm in
height.
[0519] The application member may consist of several different
materials, in particular of a stack of foams having different
characteristics.
[0520] By way of example, the application member may consist of one
or more foams chosen from polyether, polyester, polyurethane,
polyester-polyurethane, NBR (natural butadiene rubber), SBR
(synthetic butadiene rubber) or PVC (polyvinyl chloride) foams, or
mixtures thereof, and quite particularly polyester-polyurethane, in
particular the product S90 from Crest Foam Industries.
[0521] The density of the foam(s) forming the application member,
measured according to standard ASTM D 3574-05, may advantageously
be between 0.02 gcm.sup.-3 and 0.05 gcm.sup.-3, for example 0.03
gcm.sup.-3. This density makes it possible to release an
appropriate amount of impregnated composition.
[0522] The average number of pores or cells of the foam(s) may
advantageously be between 25 and 50 pores per centimetre, for
example equal to 35 pores per centimetre. The average pore size may
advantageously be between 0.2 mm and 0.5 mm. It should be noted
that the evaluation of the average number of pores is
conventionally carried out visually by counting. Preferably, the
cells or pores communicate with one another omnidirectionally.
[0523] The hardness of the application surface of the applicator
member, measured by means of an F-type durometer from Asker, may
advantageously be between 10 Asker F and 70 Asker F.
[0524] At least one part of the surface of the application member
may be covered with a flock, in particular based on polyamide,
rayon, cotton, viscose or nylon fibres. The flock contributes to
creating a store of product, immediately in the neighbourhood of
the application surface. In addition, it makes it possible to
impart more softness on application, in particular when the
application member is made of wide-cell foam. Furthermore, the
flock may contribute to the homogenization of the spreading of the
composition to form a thin film.
[0525] The flock may consist of a mixture of fibres of various
lengths and/or nature and/or diameters.
[0526] The length of the fibres may advantageously be between 0.2
mm and 1 mm, for example equal to 0.75 mm.
[0527] The fibre count grading unit may advantageously be between
0.3 dtex and 3.3 dtex, for example equal to 1.7 dtex.
[0528] As a variant, the application surface can be covered with a
permeable coating of textile, perforated plastic or felt type.
[0529] In accordance with one advantageous variant of the
invention, the device comprises a composition-dispensing mechanism
which makes it possible to expel said composition from the
container to the application member.
[0530] According to this variant, said dispensing mechanism
advantageously comprises a composition-metering means.
[0531] Application devices that are particularly suited to this
composition will be described with reference to the appended
drawings, in which:
[0532] FIG. 1 is a sectional view of an application device
according to a first embodiment;
[0533] FIG. 2 is an exploded view of an application device
according to a second embodiment;
[0534] FIG. 3 is a sectional view of the device of FIG. 2.
[0535] According to a first embodiment represented in FIG. 1, the
device 1 comprises a cylindrical polypropylene body 2 having a
longitudinal axis X. The body 2 denotes a first housing 3
(container), delimited by a cylindrical skirt 19, a first end 18 of
which is open, and a second end of which, opposite the first, is
closed by a transverse wall 16 comprising passages which emerge to
form a grille 42. The transverse wall 16 separates the first
housing 3 from a second housing 6, located above the first housing
3.
[0536] The upper housing 6 has a bottom 7, in the shape of a
hemisphere, into which the passages forming the grille 42 emerge.
One end of the housing 6, opposite the bottom 7, forms a free edge
8 delimiting an opening 9. The external surface of the housing 6
comprises a screw thread 10 intended to cooperate with a
corresponding screw thread 11 provided for on the internal surface
of a skirt 12 of a stopper 13. As a variant, the stopper is
reversibly snap-fastened onto the external surface of the housing
6.
[0537] The stopper 13 is rigidly connected to an applicator 14
correspondingly made to match the hemispherical profile defined by
the bottom 7 of the housing 6. The application member 14 may be
adhesively bonded, welded or crimped onto the cap 13.
[0538] The application member consists of an open-cell polyurethane
foam. The density of the foam forming the application member,
measured according to standard ASTM D 3574-05, is advantageously
between 0.02 gcm.sup.-3 and 0.05 gcm.sup.-3, for example equal to
0.03 gcm.sup.-3.
[0539] According to one preferred variant, at least one part of the
surface 14 of the application member is covered with a flock 15, in
particular based on rayon, cotton, viscose or nylon fibres. The
length of the fibres is advantageously between 0.2 mm and 1 mm, for
example 0.75 mm. The fibre count grading unit is advantageously
between 0.3 dtex and 3.3 dtex, for example equal to 1.7 dtex.
[0540] The application member 14 is proportioned relative to the
housing 6 such that, when the stopper 13 is in the closed position,
at least one portion of the application surface of the application
member 14 is in contact with the bottom 7.
[0541] The application member 14 is proportioned such that, in this
position, it is not appreciably axially compressed.
[0542] The composition of the invention is here referred to as
product P. This product P is contained inside the housing 3 forming
a container, the open end 18 of the housing 3 being closed via a
dispensing mechanism 30. The latter is mounted by clip-fastening
onto the body 2 of the housing 3, after filling with the product P
inside the housing 3 through its open end 18. The mechanism 30
comprises an actuating wheel 31 mounted to rotate freely with
respect to the body 2, via a bulge/groove arrangement. The wheel 31
is rigidly connected to a threaded rod 32 capable of axially
driving a threaded piston 33, incapable of rotating inside the
container, for example by virtue of a rib/notch assembly which
prevents the piston from rotating inside the container. The
mechanism may also comprise a metering means, such as a ratchet
system, capable of periodically generating an audible sound, so as
to inform the user of the amount of product dispensed.
[0543] As a variant, the mechanism associated with the first
housing, for causing the product to exit, may be different; for
example, the walls of the body 2 may be deformable in order to
apply, by crimping, an overpressure in the container so as to expel
the product through the grille.
[0544] To use this device, the user turns the actuating wheel
through half or one turn, with the cap 13 in the closed position
over the opening 9 of the housing 6, so as to cause a corresponding
amount of product P to pass from the container to the applicator 14
contained in the housing 6, via the passage of the grille 42. The
product is taken up by the applicator 14, in particular by
capillary action. All that then remains is for the cap 13 to be
unscrewed so that the application member can be extracted therefrom
and for the product P to be applied by moving the application
surface of the application member 14 over lips, in order to deposit
the product impregnated in the application member.
[0545] According to a variant which is not illustrated, the
application member 14 is axially oversized with respect to the
housing 6. Thus, after having applied all the product contained on
the application member 14, it is possible to reload the latter,
without having to rescrew the cap fully onto the device 1, simply
by introducing the application member 14 into the housing 6 through
the opening 9, and picking up either residual product resulting
from the previous actuating of the wheel 31, or product resulting
from a further actuating of the wheel 31, in the absence of the
application member 14.
[0546] According to a second embodiment represented in FIGS. 2 and
3, the device is in the form of an applicator bottle for a product
P, and comprises mainly a container or reservoir 110 consisting of
a body 111, one end of which is closed by a bottom 112. The other
end of the reservoir 110 is surmounted by an application head which
comprises an intermediate element 130 intended for mounting the
head on the reservoir and an application member 120 housed in the
intermediate element.
[0547] The intermediate element 130 comprises, on its external
surface, means 132 (of screw thread or snap-fitting bead type) for
enabling the removable mounting of a stopper 140 capable of
covering the application member 120.
[0548] As a variant, a dispensing mechanism can be combined with
the reservoir, for example a piston mechanism as previously
described, or flexible walls making it possible to generate an
overpressure in the reservoir in order to expel the product.
Likewise, a ball 160 can be placed inside the reservoir so as to
homogenize the product in order to facilitate the flow thereof
and/or to facilitate the conveying thereof to the application
member.
[0549] The internal wall of the intermediate element 130 defines a
cylindrical internal housing 133 which rotates about an axis X.
This housing 133 comprises a side wall 134 and a planar transverse
wall 135 constituting the bottom of the housing. A fitting skirt
136 extends the side wall beyond the transverse wall, on the
opposite side from the opening 131 of the intermediate element. The
fitting skirt 136 is attached, by snap-fitting, onto the body of
the reservoir, at the top of which a radial projection 114 is
provided for, on the opposite side from the bottom 112.
[0550] This snap-fitting system can of course be replaced with any
other system of attachment, in particular a screw attachment
system. A sealing skirt 137 is advantageously provided for on the
transverse wall 135 of the housing so as to come into leaktight
contact with the inside of the reservoir.
[0551] The body 111 of the reservoir, the intermediate element 130
and also the stopper 140 are made of rigid material, for example of
polyethylene. It is obvious that these three independent elements
can each be made of a different material. It is thus possible to
envisage using a flexible material for at least one part of the
reservoir.
[0552] The housing 133 communicates with the inside of the
reservoir via a passage 139 which passes through a shaft 115
extending along the axis of the housing. The shaft is made up of a
single part with the transverse wall 135 from which it extends to a
free end, located inside the housing 133. The shaft has a circular
internal cross section, which is constant throughout its axial
height, whereas its external cross section decreases to the free
end.
[0553] The diameter of the shaft is chosen according to the product
contained in the reservoir, in such a way that the product coming
from the reservoir can flow in the shaft, for example by simply
shaking the assembly.
[0554] The application member 120 is mounted inside the housing 133
around the shaft 115.
[0555] The application member is in the form of a block of porous
material(s), at least one part of which is elastically
compressible.
[0556] According to one preferred embodiment, the application
member is made up of a block of open-cell foam, in particular a
block of polyurethane foam. Alternatively, the application member
120 may be made up of an axial succession of at least two portions
of foam, of different compressibilities, which can be adhesively
bonded together.
[0557] According to the example represented, the application member
has a cylindrical shape and has a circular cross section. It is
obvious that the application member can have any other shape, and
can have any other cross section.
[0558] The application member 120 has a side wall 121, one end 122
of which constitutes a dome-shaped application surface.
[0559] Where appropriate, the application surface 122 can be
covered with a flock. In this case, the flock may consist of hairs
of various diameters and/or of various natures and/or of various
heights, or of a mixture of such hairs.
[0560] On the opposite side from this application surface 122, the
application member ends with a second open end 124 which comes into
contact with the transverse wall 135 of the housing. The end 124
can be permanently attached to the intermediate element 130.
Advantageously, this end is removably attached so as to make it
possible to easily remove the application member in order, for
example, to clean it. To this effect, the end 124 of the
application member is covered with a permanent adhesive, for
example an acrylic adhesive, which adheres more to the application
member than to the wall 135.
[0561] A portion 123 of the side wall located on the side of the
open end 124 acts as a support for the application member. The
portion 123 acting as a support for the application member is
separated from the rest of the application member by an annular
groove 150 which defines a zone of smaller cross section. The
annular groove 150 provided for on the periphery of the application
member enables the zone of smaller cross section to have a greater
compressibility than the rest of the application member. Thus, when
a pressure is exerted on the application surface, the maximum
compression of the zone of smaller cross section is obtained before
obtaining the maximum compression of the application member.
[0562] When the application member is mounted in the housing 133,
it occupies approximately the entire housing, the application
member having a shape approximately complementary to the shape of
the housing. The application member 120 has in particular an axial
recess 125, the shape of which is adjusted so that the application
member comes to press against the wall of the shaft, without being
substantially laterally compressed by said shaft. Alternatively,
the side wall of the application member can be at a distance from
the shaft. When the application member is in the relaxed position,
the axial recess 125 has an axial height which is substantially
greater than the axial height of the shaft 115 so as to define an
internal cavity inside the application member, between an internal
surface 126 located facing the shaft and the free end of the shaft.
The portion 127 of the application member located above the cavity
has an axial thickness which is smaller than the thickness of the
lateral edge 121 of the application member, measured perpendicular
to the axis X. The cavity can thus constitute a store of product in
proximity to the application surface, it being possible for the
product to come into contact with the application member only in
the cavity.
[0563] Typically, the application member has a diameter of between
2 mm and 20 mm, and preferably between 5 mm and 15 mm. Its height,
in the non-compressed position, can range between 2 mm and 20
mm.
[0564] Generally, the application member 120 comprises pores or
open cells which have an average size of between 0.3 mm and 0.5 mm.
Preferably, the pores or cells communicate with one another
omnidirectionally.
[0565] In order to use the application assembly according to the
invention, the user shakes the packaging and application assembly
in order to bring the product into the shaft and into the
application member. As a variant, the user actuates a dispensing
mechanism in order to bring the product to the application member.
Product is then kept inside the block of foam 120 of the
application member by capillary action. All that is then needed is
to bring the application member 120 into contact with the area to
be treated; a slight pressure can be applied so as to place the
product present in the cells of the foam in proximity to the
application surface 122. Product is then spread by passing the
application surface 122 over the support to be treated, by simple
capillary contact, so as to draw the product in the form of a film,
under the action of the affinity of the product that is exerted
between the application surface and the support to be treated,
without the slightest pressure being appreciably exerted on the
application assembly.
[0566] In the detailed description above, reference was made to
preferred embodiments of the invention. It is obvious that variants
can be introduced therein without departing from the spirit of the
invention as claimed hereinafter.
[0567] In particular, the shape of the applicator may be different
from the shape illustrated with reference to the embodiments that
have just been described. Generally, the shape of the applicator is
chosen according to the area to be treated. For example, in the
case of an applicator for the lips, an applicator approximately in
the shape of a cone, a nose-cone or a hemisphere will more
particularly be used, the applicator optionally comprising a
bevelled face.
[0568] Likewise, the applicator can be dissociated from a container
containing the product without a dispensing mechanism. The device
is then used by dipping the applicator in the container and then by
applying the product to the lips by means of the applicator.
[0569] The example below is presented as a non-limiting
illustration of the field of the invention.
Protocol for Measuring the Film Thickness:
[0570] This protocol is an in vitro measurement.
[0571] A square of Bioskin.RTM. synthetic skin of 3 cm.times.4 cm
was prepared and weighed accurately. The composition was applied by
means of the device so as to obtain an even deposit covering the
entire surface of the skin square. The skin square thus made up was
weighed accurately.
[0572] The film thickness was calculated according to the
formula:
Thickness (cm)=volume of composition applied (cm.sup.3)/surface
area of the skin square with volume of the composition applied=mass
of the deposit of composition (g)/density of the composition
(g/cm.sup.3)
[0573] The density of the composition is 1.
[0574] The average thickness is given with three separate
measurements.
Protocol for Evaluating the Cosmeticity of the Composition: The
composition is applied to the lips. The evaluation of the
cosmeticity of the composition is visual. The tack is evaluated
during drying. The gloss is evaluated 10 minutes after applying the
composition to the lips and the migration is evaluated 1 hour after
application.
EXAMPLES
Examples 1
[0575] The two compositions below are prepared:
[0576] In the table below, the amounts are expressed by weight of
starting material.
TABLE-US-00001 Amount (%) Phase Ingredients A B A Dimethicone (and)
dimethiconol (sold under the 4.0 4.0 name Xiameter PMX-1503 Fluid
by Dow Corning) Trimethylpentaphenyltrisiloxane (viscosity: 175
cSt) 5.0 5.0 (sold under the name Dow Corning PH-1555 HRI Cosmetic
Fluid by Dow Corning) Dimethicone (viscosity 2 cSt) 3.9 3.9
Isohexadecane 3.9 3.9 Sodium polyacrylate (sold under the name
Cosmedia 0.5 0.5 SP by Cognis) B Disteardimonium hectorite (sold
under the name 1.0 1.0 Bentone 38 VCG by Elementis) Propylene
carbonate (sold under the name Jeffsol 0.3 0.3 propylene carbonate
by Huntsman) Dimethicone (viscosity 2 cSt) 3.8 3.8 C Cetyl
PEG/PPG-10/1 dimethicone (sold under 3.0 3.0 the name Abil EM 90 by
Evonik Goldschmidt) Dimethicone (and) PEG/PPG-18/18 dimethicone 1.0
1.0 (sold under the name X-22-6711D by Shin-Etsu) Polyglyceryl-4
isostearate (sold under the name 1.0 1.0 Isolan GI 34 by Evonik
Goldschmidt) White mineral oil 4.0 4.0
Bis-behenyl/isostearyl/phytosteryl dimer 5.0 -- dilinoleyl dimer
dilinoleate (sold under the name Plandool G-7 by Nippon Fine
Chemical) PEG-45/dodecyl glycol copolymer (sold under -- 5.0 the
name Elfacos ST 9 by Akzo Nobel) D Acrylates/polytrimethylsiloxy
methacrylate 10.0 10.0 copolymer (sold under the name Dow Corning
FA 4002 ID Silicone Acrylate by Dow Corning, as a 40% by weight
mixture in isododecane) E 2-Octyldodecan-1-ol 2.5 2.5 Pigments 1.5
1.5 Polyhydroxystearic acid (sold under the name 0.2 0.2 Dispersun
DSP OL-300 by Innospec Active Chemicals) F 1,3-Butylene glycol 6.0
6.0 Magnesium sulfate 0.7 0.7 Preserving agent qs qs Glycerol 2.0
2.0 Water qs qs G Ethanol 5.0 5.0
Preparation Protocol:
[0577] A ground pigmentary material (phase E) is prepared by
dispersing the pigments in the preheated 2-octyldodecan-1-ol and
polyhydroxystearic acid, by means of an Exakt three-roll machine
(at least three treatments).
[0578] Phase A is prepared by mixing the ingredients in a TM DAC
150.1 speed mixer from Hauschild, at 3500 rpm for 6 minutes.
[0579] Phase B is prepared by mixing the components in the speed
mixer at 3500 rpm for 3 minutes.
[0580] Phase C is prepared by mixing the components (preheated
pasty compound) in the speed mixer at 3500 rpm for 6 minutes.
[0581] Phase D is added to phase C and the mixture is homogenized
in the speed mixer at 3500 rpm for 3 minutes.
[0582] Phase F is prepared by mixing with magnetic stirring in a
beaker.
[0583] Phase B is added to phase A with stirring using a Moritz
rotor-stator. After 10 minutes, phases C and D obtained are added,
and, after homogenization, the ground material E is added, followed
by phase F (slowly and after homogenization) and finally phase G,
after homogenization.
[0584] The two compositions thus obtained are homogeneous and
stable after a storage during 2 months at 25.degree. C. and
37.degree. C.
[0585] The compositions are applied using the following two
devices:
Device 1: application member consisting of S90NR foam from the
company Crest Foam Industries, covered with a flock from the
company ERZI Flock Technik (0.75 mm; 1.7 dtex). Device 2:
applicator for compositions of lip gloss type (flexible flocked
applicator 14030; GEKA GMBH).
Protocol for Measuring the Film Thickness:
[0586] This protocol is an in vitro measurement.
[0587] A square of Bioskin.RTM. synthetic skin of 3 cm.times.4 cm
is prepared and weighed accurately. The composition is applied by
means of the device so as to obtain an even deposit covering the
entire surface of the skin square. The skin square thus made up is
weighed accurately.
[0588] The film thickness is calculated according to the
formula:
Thickness (cm)=volume of composition applied (cm.sup.3)/surface
area of the skin square with volume of the composition applied=mass
of the deposit of composition (g)/density of the composition
(g/cm.sup.3)
[0589] The density of the composition is 1.
[0590] The average thickness is given with three separate
measurements.
Protocol for Evaluating the Cosmeticity of the Composition:
[0591] The composition is applied to the lips. The evaluation of
the cosmeticity of the composition is visual. The tack is evaluated
during drying. The gloss is evaluated 10 minutes after applying the
composition to the lips and the migration is evaluated 1 hour after
application.
Results:
[0592] A very thin deposit is obtained in both cases, the deposit
being thinner with device 2 than with device 1, and the variation
in thickness of the deposit between t0 and t1h is low.
[0593] The deposit is uniform in both cases, has a satiny
appearance (slightly shiny) and the colour is homogeneous with
appropriate resistance.
[0594] The application is gentle and easy, not drying too fast,
giving a sensation of moisturization on application, with no tack.
The deposit is comfortable during application and after (no pulling
sensation).
[0595] The deposits migrate little (device 1) or not at all (device
2).
Example 2
[0596] The following composition is prepared (the contents are
expressed as weight of starting material).
TABLE-US-00002 Phase Ingredients Amount (%) A Dimethicone (and)
dimethiconol (sold under the 2.5 name Xiameter PMX-1503 Fluid by
Dow Corning) Trimethylpentaphenyltrisiloxane (viscosity: 175 cSt)
5.0 (sold under the name Dow Corning PH-1555 HRI Cosmetic Fluid by
Dow Corning) Dimethicone (viscosity 2 cSt) 3.1 Isododecane 2.7
Isohexadecane 5.0 B Kaydol white mineral oil from Sonneborn 4.0
Cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 dimethicone (sold under the 3.0 name Abil EM 90
by Evonik Goldschmidt) Dimethicone (and) PEG/PPG-18/18 dimethicone
1.0 (sold under the name X-22-6711D by Shin-Etsu) Polyglyceryl-4
isostearate (sold under the 1.0 name Isolan GI 34 by Evonik
Goldschmidt) C Disteardimonium hectorite (sold under 1.0 the name
Bentone 38 VCG by Elementis) Dimethicone (viscosity 2 cSt) 3.8
Propylene carbonate (sold under the name 0.3 Jeffsol propylene
carbonate by Huntsman) D Acrylates/polytrimethylsiloxy methacrylate
10.0 copolymer (sold under the name Dow Corning FA 4002 ID Silicone
Acrylate by Dow Corning, as a 40% by weight mixture in isododecane)
E 2-Octyldodecan-1-ol 2.5 Pigments 1.5 Polyhydroxystearic acid
(sold under the name 0.2 Dispersun DSP OL-300 by Innospec Active
Chemicals) F 1,3-Butylene glycol 6.0 Magnesium sulfate 0.7
Preserving agent qs Glycerol 2.0 Acacia honey 1.0 Water qs G
Ethanol 5.00
[0597] A ground pigmentary material (phase E) is prepared by
dispersing the pigments in the preheated 2-octyldodecan-1-ol and
polyhydroxystearic acid, by means of an Exakt three-roll machine
(at least three treatments).
[0598] Phases A and B are prepared separately, by mixing the
ingredients in a TM DAC 150.1 speed mixer from Hauschild, at 3500
rpm for 3 minutes.
[0599] Phase F is prepared by mixing with magnetic stirring in a
beaker.
[0600] Phase B is mixed with phase A with stirring using a Moritz
rotor-stator. After 10 minutes, phase C, phase E, then phase D are
added successively, and after homogenization between each
introduction. Phase F and finally phase G are then added slowly,
after homogenization.
[0601] The compositions are homogeneous and stable (storage during
2 months at 25.degree. C. and 37.degree. C.).
[0602] Devices Used for the Application:
[0603] Device 1: application member consisting of S90NR foam from
the company Crest Foam Industries covered with flocking from the
company ERZI Flock Technik (0.75 mm; 1.7 dtex).
[0604] Device 2: applicator for compositions of lip gloss type
(flexible flocked applicator 14030; GEKA GmbH).
[0605] Very fine, homogeneous and comfortable (supple leaving the
lips with a great freedom of movement, no pulling sensation)
deposits are obtained, with a sensation of moisturization on
application. The deposits have a satiny appearance (slightly shiny)
and their colour is homogeneous with appropriate resistance.
[0606] The deposits migrate little and are sparingly
tacky/non-tacky.
Example 3
[0607] The following composition is prepared (the contents are
expressed as weight of starting material).
TABLE-US-00003 Phase Ingredients Amount (%) A Dimethicone (and)
dimethiconol (sold under the 4.0 name Xiameter PMX-1503 Fluid by
Dow Corning) Trimethylpentaphenyltrisiloxane (viscosity: 175 cSt)
5.0 (sold under the name Dow Corning PH-1555 HRI Cosmetic Fluid by
Dow Corning) Dimethicone (viscosity 2 cSt) 3.1 Isododecane 2.7
Isohexadecane 5.0 B Cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 dimethicone 3.0 (sold under
the name Abil EM 90 by Evonik Goldschmidt) Dimethicone (and)
PEG/PPG-18/18 dimethicone 1.0 (sold under the name X-22-6711D by
Shin-Etsu) Polyglyceryl-4 isostearate (sold under the 1.0 name
Isolan GI 34 by Evonik Goldschmidt) C Petroleum jelly (White
Protopet 4.0 1s Petrolatum from Sonneborn) D Disteardimonium
hectorite (sold under 1.0 the name Bentone 38 VCG by Elementis)
Dimethicone (viscosity 2 cSt) 3.8 Propylene carbonate (sold under
the name 0.3 Jeffsol propylene carbonate by Huntsman) E
Acrylates/polytrimethylsiloxy methacrylate 10.0 copolymer (sold
under the name Dow Corning FA 4002 ID Silicone Acrylate by Dow
Corning, as a 40% by weight mixture in isododecane) F
2-Octyldodecan-1-ol 2.5 Pigments 1.5 Polyhydroxystearic acid (sold
under 0.2 the name Dispersun DSP OL-300 by Innospec Active
Chemicals) G 1,3-Butylene glycol 6.0 Magnesium sulfate 0.7
Preserving agent qs Glycerol 2.0 Acacia honey 1
Polyacrylamidomethylpropanesulfonic 0.5 acid partially neutralized
with aqueous ammonia (Hostacerin AMPS sold by Clariant) Water qs H
Ethanol 5.0
[0608] A ground pigmentary material (phase D) is prepared by
dispersing the pigments in the preheated 2-octyldodecan-1-ol and
polyhydroxystearic acid, by means of an Exakt three-roll machine
(at least three treatments).
[0609] Phases A, B and D are prepared separately, by mixing the
ingredients in a TM DAC 150.1 speed mixer from Hauschild, at 3500
rpm for 3 minutes.
[0610] Phase G is prepared by mixing with magnetic stirring in a
beaker.
[0611] Phase B is mixed with phase A with stirring using a Moritz
rotor-stator. After 10 minutes, preheated phase C, then phase D,
phase F and phase E are added successively, and after
homogenization between each introduction. Phase G and finally phase
H are then added slowly, after homogenization.
[0612] The composition obtained is homogeneous and stable (storage
during 2 months at 25.degree. C. and 37.degree. C.).
[0613] It is applied using device 1.
[0614] The application is gentle and easy, not drying too fast,
[0615] The obtained deposit is very thin, non-tacky, uniform and
comfortable (supple deposit on the lips leaving them with a great
freedom of movement, no pulling sensation) It has a satiny
appearance (slightly shiny) and the colour is homogeneous with
appropriate resistance. Furthermore, the deposit remains located
where it was applied, during and after the application (precise
outline of the lips; no migration) and shows a good staying
power.
Example 4
[0616] The composition below is prepared:
[0617] In the table below, the amounts are expressed by weight of
starting material.
TABLE-US-00004 Phase Ingredients Amount (%) A Dimethicone (and)
dimethiconol (sold under the 4.0 name Xiameter PMX-1503 Fluid by
Dow Corning) Trimethylpentaphenyltrisiloxane (viscosity: 5.0 175
cSt) (sold under the name Dow Corning PH-1555 HRI Cosmetic Fluid by
Dow Corning) Dimethicone (viscosity 2 cSt) 2.8 Isohexadecane 5
Sodium polyacrylate (sold under the name 0.6 Cosmedia SP by Cognis)
B Disteardimonium hectorite (sold under the 1.6 name Bentone 38 VCG
by Elementis) Propylene carbonate (sold under the name 0.48 Jeffsol
propylene carbonate by Huntsman) Dimethicone (viscosity 2 cSt) 3.75
C Cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 dimethicone (sold under 3.0 the name Abil EM
90 by Evonik Goldschmidt) Dimethicone (and) PEG/PPG-18/18
dimethicone 1.0 (sold under the name X-22-6711D by Shin-Etsu)
Polyglyceryl-4 isostearate (sold under the 1.0 name Isolan GI 34 by
Evonik Goldschmidt) White mineral oil 4.0
Bis-behenyl/isostearyl/phytosteryl dimer 2.5-2 dilinoleyl dimer
dilinoleate (sold under the name Plandool G-7 by Nippon Fine
Chemical) Orbignya Oleifera seed oil (CROPURE .TM. BABASSU-SS-(LK),
by Croda) D Acrylates/polytrimethylsiloxy methacrylate 10.0
copolymer (sold under the name Dow Corning FA 4002 ID Silicone
Acrylate by Dow Corning, as a 40% by weight mixture in isododecane)
E Pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate 4.5 Pigments 1.5 F 1,3-Butylene
glycol 6.0 Magnesium sulfate 0.7 Preserving agent qs Glycerol 2.0
Water qs G Ethanol 5.0
The composition is prepared according to the protocol of example
1.
[0618] The composition obtained is homogeneous and stable (storage
during 2 months at 25.degree. C. and 37.degree. C.).
[0619] The composition is applied with Device 1 (application member
consisting of S90NR foam from the company Crest Foam Industries
covered with flocking from the company ERZI Flock Technik (0.75 mm;
1.7 dtex)).
[0620] The application is gentle and easy, not drying too fast,
[0621] The obtained deposit is very thin, non-tacky, uniform and
comfortable (supple deposit on the lips leaving them with a great
freedom of movement, no pulling sensation) It has a satiny
appearance (slightly shiny) and the colour is homogeneous with
appropriate resistance. Furthermore, the deposit remains located
where it was applied, during and after the application (precise
outline of the lips; no migration) and shows a good staying
power.
* * * * *