U.S. patent application number 15/222694 was filed with the patent office on 2017-02-02 for footwear assembly.
The applicant listed for this patent is W. L. Gore & Associates GmbH, W. L. Gore & Associati, S.r.l.. Invention is credited to Andrea Giupponi, Guenter Kiederle.
Application Number | 20170027283 15/222694 |
Document ID | / |
Family ID | 53758221 |
Filed Date | 2017-02-02 |
United States Patent
Application |
20170027283 |
Kind Code |
A1 |
Kiederle; Guenter ; et
al. |
February 2, 2017 |
FOOTWEAR ASSEMBLY
Abstract
Disclosed is a footwear assembly (10) for forming at least part
of an upper assembly of footwear, the footwear assembly defining an
instep opening (8) and comprising: a water vapor permeable and
waterproof functional layer (12) having a first elasticity, and a
collar layer (14) attached to the water vapor permeable and
waterproof functional layer (12) such as to define at least part of
the instep opening (8), the collar layer (14) having a second
elasticity.
Inventors: |
Kiederle; Guenter;
(Oberpframmern, DE) ; Giupponi; Andrea; (Verona,
IT) |
|
Applicant: |
Name |
City |
State |
Country |
Type |
W. L. Gore & Associates GmbH
W. L. Gore & Associati, S.r.l. |
Putzbrunn
Verona |
|
DE
IT |
|
|
Family ID: |
53758221 |
Appl. No.: |
15/222694 |
Filed: |
July 28, 2016 |
Related U.S. Patent Documents
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Application
Number |
Filing Date |
Patent Number |
|
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PCT/EP2015/067262 |
Jul 28, 2015 |
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15222694 |
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Current U.S.
Class: |
1/1 |
Current CPC
Class: |
A43C 11/12 20130101;
A43B 23/022 20130101; A43B 23/07 20130101; A43B 23/06 20130101;
A43B 23/027 20130101; A43B 7/125 20130101 |
International
Class: |
A43B 23/02 20060101
A43B023/02; A43B 23/06 20060101 A43B023/06; A43C 11/12 20060101
A43C011/12 |
Claims
1. Footwear assembly for forming at least part of an upper assembly
of footwear, the footwear assembly defining an instep opening and
comprising: a water vapor permeable and waterproof functional layer
having a first elasticity, and a collar layer attached to the water
vapor permeable and waterproof functional layer such as to define
at least part of the instep opening, the collar layer having a
second elasticity.
2. The footwear assembly according to claim 1, wherein the collar
layer has elastic properties in more than one direction.
3. The footwear assembly according to claim 1, wherein the second
elasticity is equal to, or larger, than a predetermined
threshold.
4. The footwear assembly according to claim 1, wherein the second
elasticity is equal to, or larger, than the first elasticity.
5. The footwear assembly according to claim 1, wherein the collar
layer extends along at least 30% of the instep opening,
particularly along at least 60% of the instep opening, particularly
along at least 2/3 of the instep opening.
6. The footwear assembly according to claim 1, wherein the collar
layer is attached to the water vapor permeable and waterproof
functional layer by means of an elastic seam.
7. The footwear assembly according to claim 6, wherein the elastic
seam is formed by a thread having a third elasticity.
8. The footwear assembly according to claim 6, wherein the elastic
seam is formed by a stitch pattern providing elastic
characteristics.
9. The footwear assembly according to claim 6, wherein the elastic
seam extends along at least 30% of the circumference of the instep
opening, particularly along at least 60% of the circumference of
the instep opening, particularly along at least 2/3 of the
circumference of the instep opening.
10. The footwear assembly according to claim 1, wherein the first
elasticity and the second elasticity are measured in the same
direction.
11. The footwear assembly according to claim 1, wherein the first
elasticity and the second elasticity are measured in a direction
parallel to the horizontal direction.
12. The footwear assembly according to claim 6, wherein the water
vapor permeable and waterproof functional layer and the collar
layer are attached to each other via a seam and the first
elasticity and the second elasticity are measured in a direction
parallel to the seam.
13. The footwear assembly according to claim 6, wherein a composite
sample piece made of the water vapor permeable and waterproof
functional layer and the collar layer attached to each other by a
seam has a fourth elasticity, the fourth elasticity being equal to,
or larger, than a predetermined threshold.
14. The footwear assembly according to claim 1, wherein the water
vapor permeable and waterproof functional layer has the
configuration of a laminate made up with a water vapor permeable
and waterproof membrane and a textile layer attached to the water
vapor permeable and waterproof membrane.
15. The footwear assembly according to claim 14, wherein the
textile layer has an elastic textile configuration.
16. The footwear assembly according to claim 14, wherein the
textile layer comprises elastic filaments.
17. The footwear assembly according to claim 1, wherein the water
vapor permeable and waterproof functional layer includes a water
vapor permeable and waterproof film made of a fluoropolymer,
particularly ePTFE.
18. The footwear assembly according to claim 1, wherein the collar
layer is water vapor permeable, but not waterproof.
19. The footwear assembly according to claim 1, having the
configuration of an upper lining.
20. The footwear assembly according to claim 1, having the
configuration of a water vapor permeable and waterproof sock.
21. The footwear assembly according to claim 1, having the
configuration of a water vapor permeable and waterproof upper
lining attached to a waterproof upper bottom.
22. The footwear assembly according to claim 1, wherein the water
vapor permeable and waterproof functional layer extends to a height
of at least 20% of the height of the footwear assembly,
particularly to a height of at least 65% of the footwear assembly,
particularly to a height of at least 95% of the footwear
assembly.
23. The footwear assembly according to claim 1, wherein the collar
layer comprises elastic extensions on its side opposite the water
vapor permeable functional layer, the extensions being configured
to be folded over and attached to an upper material layer, such as
to form a backing layer covering openable portions, tongue portions
and/or gusset portions of the upper material layer.
24. Upper assembly of footwear, the upper assembly comprising: an
upper material layer surrounding at least an upper portion of a
foot, and a footwear assembly comprising a water vapor permeable
and waterproof functional layer having a first elasticity, and a
collar layer attached to the water vapor permeable and waterproof
functional layer such as to define at least part of the instep
opening, the collar layer having a second elasticity, wherein the
footwear assembly forms an upper lining arranged on an inner side
of the upper material layer, the upper lining being independent of
the upper material layer to such extent that the upper lining at
least in the region of the first functional layer and the elastic
collar is able to adapt its shape independent of the upper material
layer.
25. The upper assembly according to claim 24, wherein the upper
material layer and/or the upper lining is configured to be attached
to an upper bottom layer in such a way as to form a waterproof and
water vapor permeable upper assembly.
26. The upper assembly according claim 24, wherein the upper
material layer comprises at least one openable portion, tongue
portion and/or gusset portion, and the collar layer of the upper
lining comprises elastic extensions on its side opposite the water
vapor permeable and waterproof functional layer, the extensions
being folded over and attached to the upper material layer, such as
to form a backing layer covering the at least one openable portion,
tongue portions and/or gusset portions of the upper material layer.
Description
[0001] The present invention relates to a footwear assembly for
forming at least part of an upper assembly of footwear, as well as
to an upper assembly of footwear comprising such footwear assembly.
Moreover, the present invention relates to footwear comprising such
footwear assembly.
[0002] Protective clothing articles are used for wear in outdoor
conditions like wet conditions (such as rain, snow, wind, cold
etc.), in outdoor activities (such as skiing, biking, hiking, etc.)
and should protect the wearer by preventing leakage of water or
other fluids into the article while keeping the wearer comfortable
by allowing perspiration to evaporate from the wearer to the
outside of the article. In addition, such an article should
maintain the functional attributes of protection and comfort during
ordinary use.
[0003] Where flexibility of movement is essential, elastic or
stretchable fabric laminates with the above functional attributes
are needed along with soft and drape able feeling. A variety of
attempts have been made to improve elastic, breathable laminated
and composite fabrics. Although, improvements have been made, many
of these fabrics obtain varying degrees of waterproofness,
breathability, elasticity, elastic-recovery, and comfort.
[0004] Thus, there remains a need for a composite that achieves a
high degree of waterproofness, breathability, elasticity,
elastic-recovery, and comfort by in use within a variety of
applications, including footwear.
[0005] In footwear, a particular requirement exists in that
footwear should be easy to don (to put on), as well as it should be
as easy to doff (or to take off) the footwear. Therefore, footwear
should be designed such as to only loosely fit to the foot of a
person when donning or doffing the footwear. Nevertheless, it is
required that footwear fits the foot of a person after it has been
donned and is subject to extended load during use. Usually, this
contradicting requirement is solved by use of dedicated closing
systems, particularly lacing systems. Velcro's and/or zippers are
frequently used as well, either in addition or alternative to
laces. There is particularly a problem with respect to children's
footwear, since younger children typically are not able to handle
more complicated procedures required to don or doff footwear, like
putting on laces. Zippers or Velcro's are usually used in
children's footwear as an alternative to laces, since they are
easier to handle. However, none of these systems is really
satisfying. While there exist footwear designs without any laces or
zippers (e.g. Chelsea boots), donning or doffing of such footwear
usually demands great skills and requires application of
substantial forces. Thus, such footwear designs are far from
practical solutions to be handled by children.
[0006] Therefore, there exists a demand for footwear which is
flexible enough so it can be donned and/or doffed without the need
to manipulate any laces or comparable systems, but still is
flexible enough to fit the foot of a wearer during use.
[0007] Embodiments disclosed herein provide for a footwear assembly
configured to form at least part of an upper assembly of footwear.
The footwear assembly defines an instep opening and comprises a
water vapor permeable and waterproof functional layer having a
first elasticity, and a collar layer attached to the water vapor
permeable and waterproof functional layer such as to define at
least part of the instep opening, the collar layer having a second
elasticity.
[0008] As used herein the instep opening is considered to be an
opening of footwear configured for insertion of a foot when putting
on (or donning) the footwear and/or when taking off (doffing) the
footwear. The wearer's foot has to be inserted through the instep
opening when donning the footwear, and the wearer's foot has to be
taken out again through the same instep opening when doffing the
footwear. This requires the portion of the footwear assembly
defining the instep opening to be able to adjust the instep opening
size. A loose fit where the instep opening does not hinder the
movement of the wearer's foot through the instep opening is
required for donning or doffing the footwear. A close fit around
the ankle of the foot is desirable during use of the footwear when
the footwear is subject to extended load and thus should closely
fit the wearer's foot in the region around the ankle in order to
guarantee stable support of the foot, comfort, and particularly
avoid blisters. While conventionally the size of the instep opening
is designed such as to be adjustable by use of lacing systems,
zippers, Velcros, or the like, the present invention suggests a
different approach based on providing elasticity or stretch ability
of the footwear assembly in the portions comprising the instep
opening and the regions adjacent to these portions, particularly
the regions adjacent the ankle of the foot when the footwear is in
use. As suggested herein, the footwear assembly is provided with
suitable elasticity or stretchability in these portions, such as to
allow the instep opening to adjust itself according to the
different requirements when donning and/or doffing the footwear, on
the one hand, and during use when the footwear assembly should fit
to the wearer's foot in the regions adjacent the ankle of the foot,
on the other hand. The suggested configuration particularly allows
to achieve the desired flexibility of the footwear assembly without
having to apply large forces for donning and/or doffing, even
though water vapor permeable and waterproof functional layers are
used, which are known to have only limited elasticity properties or
stretchability. Using the structure suggested herein it is possible
to achieve sufficiently good elasticity in the portions of the
footwear assembly comprising the instep opening and being adjacent
to the ankle of the foot in use, even when functional layer
laminates with only limited elasticity properties or stretchability
are used.
[0009] This allows to don or doff the footwear without the need to
apply great skills and large forces, and thus footwear designed
according to the invention may be donned and doffed even by
children without any aid.
[0010] Throughout this disclosure the terms elasticity and
stretchability are used equivalently referring to the ability of a
material to elongate in response to a tensile force applied to it
and to recover at least partly towards the original shape once the
tensile force is no longer applied.
[0011] Footwear designed as suggested herein may still be provided
with laces and/or zippers. However, it is no longer necessary to
manipulate these for donning and/or doffing the footwear. Rather,
laces and/or zippers may have mere aesthetic function.
[0012] Elasticity or stretchability of the functional layer as well
as of the collar layer, and any other layer mentioned herein, may
be measured according to DIN EN 14704-1 (July 2005), method A. The
test may carried out as set out therein, while using test samples
of the following configuration: Test sample width=25 mm, test
sample testing length=50 mm (testing length refers to the free
length of the test sample in between the clamps on its opposite
side), whole length of test sample=100-150 mm. The test sample is
subject to 5 consecutive test cycles. In each test cycle, the test
sample is subject to a constant tensioning force of 7.5 N, and the
maximum elongation E of the test sample is measured. Otherwise,
test conditions are as set out in DIN EN 14704-1 (July 2015),
method A. A test sample is considered elastic in case it achieves a
maximum elongation E compared to its original length of at least 6
mm at the end of the 5th test cycle. More preferably, a test sample
may achieve a maximum elongation E of at least 8 mm, at the end of
the 5th test cycle. Even more preferably, a test sample may achieve
a maximum elongation E of at least 10 mm, at the end of the 5th
test cycle. In all cases, the test sample is required to have at
least 80% recovery, measured 30 min after release of the tensioning
force. Recovery refers to the remaining elongation C according to
DIN EN 14704-1 (July 2015). When relaxing the tensioning force
after the end of the 5th test cycle, the test sample recovers to a
remaining elongation C according DIN EN 14704-1 (July 2015). A test
sample has at least 80% recovery in case the remaining elongation C
is at most equal to 20% of the maximum elongation measured
according to DIN EN 14704-1 (July 2015). For example, in case the
maximum elongation E of a test sample at 7.5 N is 6 mm, a remaining
elongation C.ltoreq.1.2 mm is required. In particular embodiments,
a recovery of even 90% or more after 30 min may be achieved.
[0013] The water vapor permeable and waterproof functional layer is
required to have a first elasticity in at least one direction, e.g.
in machine direction. In such case, it will be advisable to orient
the functional layer such that the elasticity direction is in the
direction where most elongation is needed when donning or doffing
the footwear. In case the water vapor permeable and waterproof
functional layer has a first elasticity in more than one direction
(e.g. in machine direction and in transverse direction), it may be
convenient to define the first elasticity with respect to the main
direction of elasticity, i.e. to the direction in which the
elasticity of the water vapor permeable and waterproof functional
layer is largest, but this is not always required. In particular
embodiments, the water vapor permeable and waterproof functional
layer may have the configuration of a quarter section of an upper
assembly. In further embodiments, the water vapor permeable and
waterproof functional layer may have the configuration of a whole
upper lining of an upper assembly or a bootie, except the portions
around the instep opening formed by the collar layer. In even
further embodiments, the water vapor permeable and waterproof
functional layer may also include a shaft bottom layer, or the
whole bootie, except the portions around the instep opening formed
by the collar layer. In particular embodiments, the water vapor
permeable and waterproof functional layer may further have the
configuration of a tongue portion.
[0014] Also, the collar layer is required to have a second
elasticity in at least one direction, e.g. in machine direction.
Again, it will be advisable to orient the collar layer such that
its elasticity direction is in the direction where most elongation
is needed when donning or doffing the footwear. Frequently, the
collar layer may have a second elasticity in more than one
direction (e.g. elasticity in machine direction and in transverse
direction, or elasticity in weft direction and in warp direction of
the knit or woven fabric from which the collar layer is made). In
these cases it may be convenient to define the second elasticity
with respect to the main direction of elasticity, i.e. to the
direction in which the elasticity of the collar layer is
largest.
[0015] It may also be convenient to define the first elasticity and
the second elasticity in the same direction. For example, it may be
convenient to define the first elasticity and the second elasticity
both in the direction where the most elongation is needed when
donning or duffing a footwear.
[0016] The collar layer does not have to be waterproof. Neither
does the collar layer have to be water vapor permeable. In most
cases, the collar layer may be water vapor permeable, but not
waterproof. This allows to make the collar layer from a highly
elastic material, and particularly from a material having
elasticity in more than one direction, e.g. in weft and warp
direction. Combination of the water vapor permeable and waterproof
functional layer laminate with the collar layer allows to use a
water vapor permeable and waterproof functional layer laminate of
only limited elasticity, while still allowing sufficient
donning/doffing capability, particularly donning/doffing without
manipulating any laces, zippers, or the like, and without requiring
much forces and skills, due to the elastic properties of the collar
layer. Most elastic functional layer laminates have elastic
properties in only one direction. This limited elasticity of the
waterproof and water vapor permeable functional layer may be
compensated for by selection of a highly elastic collar layer
material, particularly a material having elasticity in at least two
directions, and appropriate arrangement of the collar layer around
the instep opening where most stretchability is needed.
[0017] The donning and/or doffing characteristics of the footwear
assembly will be determined mostly by the collar layer and the
second elasticity thereof. Therefore, usually the second elasticity
may be equal to, or larger, than a predetermined threshold. In
embodiments, the second elasticity may be required to fulfil at
least one of the above mentioned thresholds, when measured
according to DIN EN 14704-1 (July 2015).
[0018] Except for cases where a highly elastic water vapor
permeable and waterproof functional layer is used, the collar layer
may have a second elasticity equal to, or larger, than the first
elasticity. As mentioned before, when comparing the first
elasticity and the second elasticity, it may be convenient to
measure the first elasticity and the second elasticity in the same
direction.
[0019] To provide sufficient extension of the instep opening when
donning or doffing the footwear, the collar layer may extend along
at least 30% of circumference of the instep opening, in particular
at least 60% of circumference of the instep opening; in particular
at least 2/3 of the circumference of the instep opening. With any
of these embodiments, the collar layer does not necessarily have to
extend around a contiguous section of the circumference, but may
extend around a number of circumference pieces, separated by
non-elastic portions comprising a water vapor permeable and
waterproof functional layer, or not. In a number of particular
embodiments, the collar layer may extend between 30% and 60% of the
circumference of the instep opening. In a number of particular
embodiments, the collar layer may extend between 30% and 2/3 of the
circumference of the instep opening (upper boundary not included),
in particular between 60% and 2/3 of the circumference of the
instep opening (upper boundary not included). In a number of
particular embodiments, the collar layer may extend along 90% of
the circumference of the instep opening, in some embodiments even
along the full circumference of the instep opening.
[0020] In embodiments the collar layer may be attached to the water
vapor permeable and waterproof functional layer by means of a seam.
In order not to compromise elasticity of the collar layer and/or
the water vapor permeable and waterproof functional layer, the seam
may have the configuration of an elastic seam. For example, the
elastic seam may be formed by a thread having a third elasticity.
Elastic threads are widely used in the art for providing elastic
seams. For example, threads comprising, or even made of, Lycra or
Elasthan, are frequently used. As an alternative, or in addition
using an elastic thread the elastic seam may be formed by a stitch
pattern providing elastic characteristics, like a zig-zag stitch. A
zig zag stitch has elastic characteristics by itself such that in
this case a thread made of non-elastic material may be used. In
most embodiments, the elastic seam may extend along any portion
where the water vapor permeable and waterproof functional layer and
the collar layer abut each other. At least, the elastic seam may
extend along at least 30% of the circumference of the instep
opening. In a number of particular embodiments, the elastic seam
may extend along 60%, along 2/3, or even along 90% of the
circumference of the instep opening, in some embodiments even along
the full circumference of the instep opening.
[0021] As mentioned before, usually it will make sense if the
elastic seam will extend at least along any contact region where
the water vapor permeable functional layer and the collar layer are
attached to each other around the instep opening. The elastic seam
may extend further than these contact regions, but this is not
necessary. The elastic seam may extend along only a part or parts
of the contact region, in case the collar layer extends along more
than 2/3 of the circumference of the instep opening. However, the
elastic seam should extend along at least 2/3 of the circumference
of the instep opening in such embodiments. In case the collar layer
extends along at least 60% of the circumference of the instep
opening, it is possible that the elastic seam may extend along only
a part or parts of the contact region. However, the elastic seam
should extend along at least 30% of the circumference of the instep
opening in such embodiments. Even in case the collar layer extends
along at least 30% of the circumference of the instep opening, it
is possible that the elastic seam may extend along only a part or
parts of the contact region. However, the elastic seam should
extend along at least 30% of the circumference of the instep
opening in such embodiments.
[0022] As mentioned above, normally it will be convenient to
measure the first elasticity and the second elasticity in the same
direction. Typically, the direction in which the first elasticity
and the second elasticity are measured will correspond to the
direction where most elongation is required when donning of doffing
the footwear. For most footwear designs, the direction where most
elongation is required for donning or doffing the footwear is
roughly in the horizontal direction, between the heel and the toe,
and thus the first elasticity and the second elasticity may be
measured in a direction parallel to the horizontal direction. The
horizontal direction usually extends parallel to the plane of the
tread of the shoe which contacts the ground in use. Parallel as
used herein may include an angular range of at most .+-.25 degrees
with respect to the horizontal direction, particularly at most
.+-.15 degrees with respect to the horizontal direction,
particularly at most .+-.10 degrees with respect to the horizontal
direction.
[0023] When the water vapor permeable and waterproof functional
layer and the collar layer are attached to each other via a seam,
it may be conceivable that the first elasticity and the second
elasticity are measured in direction parallel the seam. Parallel as
used herein may include an angular range of at most .+-.25 degrees
with respect to the seam, particularly at most .+-.15 degrees with
respect to the seam, particularly at most .+-.10 degrees with
respect to the seam. The seam may be oriented parallel to the
direction in which most elongation is required during donning or
doffing.
[0024] Particularly, a composite sample piece made of the water
vapor permeable and waterproof functional layer and the collar
layer attached to each other by a seam may have a fourth
elasticity. The fourth elasticity may be equal to, or larger, than
a predetermined threshold. The fourth elasticity may be required to
fulfil at least one of the above mentioned thresholds, when
measured according to DIN EN 14704-1 (July 2015). The fourth
elasticity may be equal to, or larger, than the first elasticity.
The fourth elasticity may even be equal to, or larger than, the
second elasticity. In this way, the seam connecting the water vapor
permeable and waterproof functional layer and the collar layer is
sufficiently elastic to avoid compromising the elasticity of the
water vapor permeable and waterproof functional layer or the
elasticity of the collar layer. As mentioned such elasticity can be
provided by using an elastic seam configuration, e.g. a zig-zag
stitch and/or using an elastic thread.
[0025] The fourth elasticity may measured in the same way as the
first elasticity, i.e. according to DIN EN 14704-1 (July 2015),
method A. The test sample for measuring the fourth elasticity has
the same overall dimensions: width=25 mm, test length=50 mm, whole
length of sample 100-150 mm. The first functional layer and the
collar layer cover half of the area of the test sample and are
attached to each other along a linear seam extending in the
longitudinal direction of the test sample.
[0026] Otherwise, the test conditions apply as set out above with
respect to the first elasticity: The test sample is subject to 5
consecutive test cycles. In each test cycle, the test sample is
subject to a constant tensioning force of 7.5 N, and the maximum
elongation E of the test sample is measured. A test sample is
considered elastic in case it achieves a maximum elongation E of at
least 6 mm at the end of the 5th test cycle. More preferably, a
test sample may achieve a maximum elongation E of at least 8 mm, at
the end of the 5th test cycle. Even more preferably, a test sample
may achieve a maximum elongation E of at least 10 mm, at the end of
the 5th test cycle. The test sample is required to have at least
80% recovery, measured 30 min after the tensioning force has been
released. Recovery refers to the remaining elongation C according
DIN EN 14704-1 (July 2015). In particular embodiments, a recovery
of even 90% or more after 30 min may be achieved.
[0027] The water vapor permeable and waterproof functional layer
may have the configuration of a laminate made up with a water vapor
permeable and waterproof membrane and at least one textile layer
attached to the water vapor permeable and waterproof membrane. Such
laminates are principally known in the art, e.g. from U.S. Pat. No.
5,804,011 which discloses a fabrics being stretchable in two
dimensions. The textile layer may have an elastic textile
configuration, e.g may be made as a knit having an elastic knit
pattern (like a tricot, warp knit, or similar knit pattern). In
such case the textile need not necessarily include elastic threads
to provide the desired elastic characteristics. However, in a
number of configurations, it may be helpful if the textile layer
comprises elastic filaments, e.g. made from elasthane, to further
enhance the elasticity of the textile layer.
[0028] The water vapor permeable and waterproof functional layer
may include a water vapor permeable and waterproof membrane. The
membrane may be selected from polyurethane, polyester, polyether,
polyamide, polyacrylate, copolyether ester and copolyether amides,
as well as other suitable thermoplastic and elastomeric films. In
an aspect of the invention the waterproof, water vapor permeable
membrane may be made of a fluoropolymer, particularly made of
microporous expanded polyterafluorethylene (ePTFE). The microporous
polytetrafluoroethylene membrane is a membrane of expanded
polytetrafluoroethylene as taught in U.S. Pat. Nos. 3,953,566 and
4,187,390, to Gore. Such membranes of expanded
polytetrafluoroethylene are present in commercially available
laminates from W.L. Gore and Associates, Inc., Elkton, Md., under
the tradename GORE-TEX.RTM. fabric. The water vapor permeable and
waterproof functional layer may be composed of a polyurethane
coated microporous expanded polytetrafluoroethylene membrane made
substantially according to the teachings of U.S. Pat. No. 4,194,041
and U.S. Pat. No. 4,942,214 assigned to W.L. Gore and Associates,
Inc, in Elkton, Md.
[0029] The collar layer may be a water vapor permeable and
waterproof functional layer as well, but this is not a requirement.
Normally, the collar layer will not be a water vapor permeable and
waterproof functional layer. Rather, the collar layer may have any
desired configuration, given it provides for the required
elasticity characteristics. In some embodiments, the collar layer
may be waterproof.
[0030] In some embodiments, the footwear assembly as described
above may have the configuration of an upper lining. As an upper
lining, the footwear assembly is attached to the inner side of an
upper material from which an upper assembly of a footwear article
is made. In some embodiments, the upper lining may have the
configuration of a water vapor permeable and waterproof sock. Such
a sock is also referred to in the art as a "bootie". A bootie
comprises an upper lining surrounding the upper side of a person's
foot as well as an upper bottom on which the sole of a person's
foot rests. As such, the bootie is an independent lining
structurally separate from an upper material or an assembly insole
of the footwear article. In the course of manufacturing the
footwear, the bootie is inserted into the upper assembly such as to
abut the inner side of the upper material and the upper side of an
assembly insole. The bootie may be fixed to the upper material
and/or to the assembly insole, but otherwise is independent of the
upper material and/or the assembly insole.
[0031] In some embodiments, the footwear assembly may have the
configuration of a water vapor permeable and waterproof upper
lining to be attached to an upper bottom. Different from a bootie,
the upper lining according to such configuration does not include
an upper bottom, but only includes an upper lining surrounding the
upper part of the foot. In the course of manufacturing the
footwear, the upper lining is to be closed on its bottom side by an
upper bottom. The upper bottom may be waterproof, if desired water
vapor permeable and waterproof. For example, the upper lining may
attached to upper bottom by lasting using a lasting glue.
Alternatively, upper lining may be attached to upper bottom by way
of a strobel seam. Upper lining may attached to upper bottom
directly, or via an intermediate element, e.g. a sealing band or a
netband. When a netband is used, a waterproof seal may be obtained
by injection molding of plastics material, e.g. during assembly of
a sole to the upper assembly.
[0032] In particular embodiments of the footwear assembly the water
vapor permeable and waterproof functional layer may extend up to a
height of at least 20% of the height of the footwear assembly. In
some embodiments, the water vapor permeable and waterproof
functional layer may extend up to a height between 20% of the
height of the footwear assembly and 65% of the height of the
footwear assembly (upper boundary not included). Particularly, the
water vapor permeable and waterproof functional layer to a height
of at least 65% of the footwear assembly, more in particular 90% or
even up to a height of at least 95% of the footwear assembly. Such
configuration is particularly helpful in embodiments where the
collar layer is not waterproof or where the collar layer is
waterproof, but not breathable. In case of a non-waterproof collar
layer, the higher the water vapor permeable and waterproof
functional layer extends, the better will be waterproofness of the
footwear article. In case of a waterproof, but non-breathable
collar layer, the higher the water vapor permeable and waterproof
functional layer extends, the better will be the water vapor
permeability of the footwear article.
[0033] In particular embodiments of the footwear assembly the
collar layer may comprise elastic extensions on its side opposite
the water vapor permeable functional layer. These extensions may be
configured to be folded over and attached to an upper material
layer, such as to form an elastic backing layer covering openable
portions, tongue portions and/or gusset portions of the upper
material layer. In such configurations, the collar layer may be
folded over at the periphery of the instep opening such that the
extensions extend from the instep opening downwards. The downwards
extending portions might be attached to the inner side of the upper
material layer and thereby allow to cover any openable portions in
the upper material layer by an elastic layer on the inner side.
This is a particularly elegant design to cover openings or slits in
the upper material, which would otherwise have to be covered by
some flexible material. In one example gusset portions required
laterally from a tongue in conventional footwear designs might be
replaced completely by such folded over extensions of the elastic
collar layer. The same applies to any portions in the upper
material layer where zippers are provided. The slits in the upper
material being created when the zipper is opened might be easily
backed by the elastic material of the folded over extensions of the
collar layer.
[0034] Any of the embodiments of a footwear assembly described
above may be used in the manufacturing of an upper assembly of
footwear. The upper assembly may comprise an upper material layer
surrounding at least an upper portion of a foot, and the footwear
assembly according to any of the previous embodiments. The footwear
assembly as described above may form an upper lining arranged on an
inner side of the upper material layer, the upper lining being
independent of the upper material to such extent that the upper
lining at least in the region of the water vapor permeable and
waterproof functional layer and the elastic collar is able to adapt
its shape independently of the upper material layer. Hence, the
upper material can be designed such as to only loosely fit to the
foot, particularly in the regions adjacent to the instep opening
and the regions around the ankle of the foot, without compromising
comfort or stability of the foot in use. This allows a simple
donning or doffing of the footwear, even in case upper materials
with poor elasticity are used, without compromising stability and
comfort to the person wearing the footwear.
[0035] The upper material layer and/or the upper lining layer may
be configured to be attached to an upper bottom layer in such a way
as to form a waterproof and water vapor permeable upper
assembly.
[0036] In embodiments, the upper material layer may comprise at
least one openable portion, tongue portion and/or gusset portion,
and the collar layer of the upper lining layer may comprises
elastic extensions on its side opposite the water vapor permeable
functional layer. The extensions may be folded over and may be
attached to the upper material layer on an inner side thereof.
Thereby, the extensions of the collar layer may form an elastic
backing layer covering the at least one openable portion, tongue
portions and/or gusset portions of the upper material layer, as
described in detail above.
[0037] The invention will be described in more detail in the
following by way of exemplary embodiments which are sown in the
figures. These show:
[0038] FIG. 1 shows a highly simplified and schematic view of a
footwear assembly having the configuration of a water vapor
permeable and waterproof functional layer bootie for a low cut
shoe;
[0039] FIG. 2 shows a highly simplified and schematic view of a
footwear assembly having the configuration of a water vapor
permeable and waterproof functional layer bootie for a mid cut
shoe;
[0040] FIG. 3 shows a highly simplified and schematic view of a
footwear assembly having the configuration of a water vapor
permeable and waterproof functional layer bootie for a high cut
shoe;
[0041] FIG. 4 shows a highly simplified and schematic view of a
footwear assembly having the configuration of a water vapor
permeable and waterproof functional layer bootie for a mid cut shoe
with an upper material layer attached to the footwear assembly;
[0042] FIG. 5 shows a highly simplified and schematic view of the
footwear assembly of FIG. 4 in a view from the from tip of the
footwear; and
[0043] FIG. 6 shows a highly simplified and schematic view of a mid
cut footwear comprising the footwear assembly of FIGS. 4 and 5, in
a completed state.
[0044] FIGS. 1 to 3 show highly simplified and schematic views of a
footwear assembly 10 having the configuration of a water vapor
permeable and waterproof functional layer bootie. FIG. 1 shows a
bootie for a low cut shoe. FIG. 2 shows a bootie for a mid cut
shoe, and FIG. 3 shows a bootie for a high cut shoe. The following
considerations relate to all embodiments shown in FIGS. 1 to 3,
unless explicit reference is taken to only one of the Figs.
[0045] The footwear assembly 10 (bootie) comprises a water vapor
permeable and waterproof functional layer laminate 12, as described
above, and a collar layer 14. The collar layer 14 is attached to
the functional layer laminate 12 such as to form an upper portion
of the footwear assembly 10 and surrounding an instep opening 8.
The collar layer 14 is attached to the water vapor permeable and
waterproof functional layer laminate 12 by an elastic seam 18. The
collar layer 14 is made from an elastic fabric having elasticity in
two dimensions, namely the warp and weft directions of the fabric.
The collar layer 14 is made from a fabric having required elastic
characteristics to allow easy donning and doffing, particularly
applying only moderate forces and not requiring to open any laces
or zippers. However, the collar layer 14 is not waterproof.
[0046] The water vapor permeable and waterproof functional layer 12
is a laminate formed by a water vapor permeable and waterproof
membrane and a textile layer attached to the water vapor permeable
and waterproof membrane. The water vapor permeable and waterproof
functional membrane may be made from expanded PTFE which is
attached to a supporting textile layer according to the teaching of
U.S. Pat. No. 5,804,011. The microporous polytetrafluoroethylene
membrane is a membrane of expanded polytetrafluoroethylene as
taught in U.S. Pat. Nos. 3,953,566 and 4,187,390, to Gore. The
water vapor permeable and waterproof functional layer may be
composed of a polyurethane coated microporous expanded
polytetrafluoroethylene membrane made substantially according to
the teachings of U.S. Pat. No. 4,194,041 and U.S. Pat. No.
4,942,214 assigned to W.L. Gore and Associates, Inc, in Elkton, Md.
The membrane may also be made of polyurethane (PU), polyether ester
(PES), polyethylene or combinations of these materials.
[0047] Water Vapor Permeability (WVP) as used herein concerning the
functional layer may be tested as defined in EN ISO 15496 (2004),
also known as the "Cup Test". A 20.times.20 cm or O 100 mm sample
of functional layer or functional layer laminate is placed onto a
container containing water and covered with a membrane. Then a cup
containing potassium acetate and being covered by the same membrane
is placed on the sample. Water vapor passes through the functional
layer into the cup, whose weight increase is then determined. The
functional layer is considered water vapor permeable or breathable
if the WVP is greater than or equal to 0.01 g/(Pa*m.sup.2*h). If
the required size of the sample cannot be obtained, a smaller
sample may be used for the measurement using a smaller cup
containing half the amount of potassium acetate specified in the
Norm, i.e. 50 g instead of 100 g and mixed with 15.6 g of water. In
case a smaller cup is used, the applied area in the calculation
needs to be adjusted, accordingly.
[0048] A functional layer may be considered waterproof in case a
100 cm.sup.2 sample of the material under investigation is able to
withstand a water ingress pressure of at least 0.05 bar.
Particularly, the material may even withstand a water pressure of
at least 1 bar. The method for carrying out this test is described
in the ISO Standard No. 811 (1981) (EN 20811 (1992)).The
measurement is carried out by exposing a 100 cm.sup.2 sample of the
material under investigation to a rising water pressure. For this
purpose, distilled water having a temperature of 20.+-.2.degree. C.
is used. The rise in the water pressure is 60.+-.3 cm H.sub.2O/min.
The water ingress pressure of the sample under investigation is
that pressure at which water passes through the opposite side of
the sample under investigation. If a 100 cm.sup.2 sample cannot be
obtained, a smaller sample may be used for the measurement. There
is a linear correlation between sample size and water ingress
pressure, so that the water ingress pressure may be calculated for
a 100 cm.sup.2 sample.
[0049] The water vapor permeable and waterproof membrane is
attached to a textile layer in such a way that the water vapor
permeable and waterproof functional layer 12 has the configuration
of an elastic laminate having at least one direction of elasticity,
usually in the machine direction. In some configurations, the water
vapor permeable and waterproof functional layer may have elasticity
in two directions, as shown in U.S. Pat. No. 5,804,011, for
example. To impose elastic characteristics to the laminate, the
textile layer may have an elastic textile configuration, e.g may be
made as a knit having an elastic knit pattern (like a tricot, warp
knit, or similar knit pattern). In such case the textile need not
necessarily include elastic threads to provide the desired elastic
characteristics. However, in a number of configurations, it may be
helpful if the textile layer comprises elastic filaments, e.g. made
from elasthane to further enhance the elasticity of the textile
layer. In FIGS. 1 to 3, the main direction of elasticity of the
water vapor permeable and waterproof functional layer 12 is
indicated by the arrow A. The main direction of elasticity of the
water vapor permeable and waterproof functional layer 12 is
directed in the direction where the most elongation and flexibility
is required when donning or doffing a footwear article with the
footwear assembly 12 having the configuration of a bootie. Tests
have shown that such direction of most elongation and flexibility
is the direction from the heel to the toe of the bootie for all
bootie configurations shown in FIGS. 1 to 3.
[0050] In all embodiments shown in FIGS. 1 to 3, the main direction
of elasticity of the functional layer laminate 12 and the main
direction of elasticity of the collar layer 14 are directed
parallel to the direction A in which most flexibility and
elongation is required for donning and doffing. Also the elastic
seam 18 connecting the functional layer laminate 12 with the collar
layer 14 is directed parallel to such direction A in which most
flexibility and elongation is required for donning and doffing. The
elastic seam 18 has the configuration of a zig zag stitch which
provided for elasticity irrespective of whether an elastic thread
is used to carry out the stitches.
[0051] There is a difference between the low cut bootie 10 shown in
FIG. 1, the mid cut bootie 10 shown in FIG. 2, and the high cut
bootie 10 shown in FIG. 3 with respect to the height where the most
elongation and flexibility is required when donning or doffing. In
the low cut bootie 10 (see FIG. 1), the most flexibility is
required at a height substantially equal to the height of the
instep opening 8, as the bootie only extends up to a height
slightly below the ankle of the foot and roughly up to the height
of the instep of the foot. Also for the mid cut bootie 10 shown in
FIG. 2, the most flexibility for donning and doffing is required at
a height roughly equal to the height of the instep of the foot.
However, in this configuration, the bootie extends up to a height
slightly above the ankle of the foot, and hence the height of
maximum elongation and flexibility is at some distance below the
height of the instep opening 8. For the high cut bootie 10 shown in
FIG. 3, the bootie extends up to a height well above the ankle of
the foot. In this configuration, it has turned out that the height
of maximum elongation for donning and doffing is only slightly
above the ankle of the foot, and thus is substantially lower than
the height of the instep opening 8. In all embodiments as shown in
FIGS. 1 to 3, the functional layer laminate 12 extends up to such a
height that the elastic seam 18 connecting the functional layer
laminate 12 and the collar layer 14 is roughly in the same height
as the height of maximum elongation when donning or doffing a
footwear including the respective bootie 10. Such configuration
allows to optimally use the elasticity provided by the collar layer
14 to provide flexibility for donning and doffing, and fit the foot
in the region around the ankle, when the footwear is used. It is
however important in such configuration that the seam 18 provides
sufficient elasticity to avoid losing the additional elasticity
provided by the collar layer 14.
[0052] Moreover, the configuration of the height of the elastic
seam 18 as shown in FIGS. 1 to 3 allows the waterproof functional
layer laminate 12 to extend up to a height as far as possible,
thereby ensuring maximum waterproofness of the footwear. This even
applies for the low cut bootie of FIG. 1, since in this
configuration the functional layer laminate may extend almost up
the maximum height of the bootie (e.g. the functional layer
laminate may extend up to 90%, or even up to 95%, of the height of
the bootie below the instep opening 8). For the mid cut bootie of
FIG. 2, the functional layer laminate may extend up to about 70% to
90%, in most cases up to about 75 to 85%, of the height of the
bootie 10 at the instep opening 8. However, in absolute height this
is still the same height, or even higher, than with the low cut
bootie 10, in any case the functional layer laminate 12 always may
extend up to a height roughly comparable to the instep of the foot.
With respect to the high cut bootie 10 shown in FIG. 3, in order to
allow easy donning and doffing it is advisable to allow the collar
layer 14 to extend at a substantial vertical portion below the
instep opening 8, down to a height slightly above the ankle of the
foot where the maximum elongation during donning and doffing will
be required (see the constriction in the bootie cross section
visible in FIG. 3). Therefore, the functional layer laminate will
extend into much less height when expressed in relative terms with
respect to the height of the instep opening, roughly up to a height
of 60% to 80%, particularly up to a height of 65% to 75% of the
height of the instep opening. However, such height is still well
above the ankle and thus provides for sufficient
waterproofness.
[0053] In the embodiments shown in the FIGS. 1 to 3 the footwear
assembly 10 forms an upper lining bootie to be attached to the
inner side of an upper material 30 (see FIGS. 4-6) of an upper
assembly. The upper lining bootie 10 has a sock shape configuration
formed by two of the water vapor permeable and waterproof
functional layers 12 and an upper bottom functional layer 22. As
more clearly visible in FIG. 5 the water vapor permeable and
waterproof functional layer 12 forms one of two upper side parts 12
of the bootie 10. Both upper side parts 12, 12 are connected with
each other by a longitudinally extending seam 13 which is sealed by
a seam tape (not shown). The upper bottom layer functional layer 22
is connected to each of the two water vapor permeable and
waterproof functional layers 12, 12 also by way of seams which are
sealed by respective seam tapes (not shown).
[0054] Also visible in FIGS. 1 and 2 is a tongue portion 16 formed
by the collar layer 14. The tongue portion 16 is also connected to
the water vapor permeable and waterproof functional layer laminate
12 by way of an elastic seam 20. As more clearly shown in FIGS. 4
to 6, the tongue portion 16 comprises an extension portion 26 which
is folded over at the instep opening 8 such that the folded over
section 26 may be connected to the inner side of an upper material
30, and thus forms a water gusset portion (see particularly FIGS. 4
and 5). As the material of the collar layer 14 is highly elastic,
such water gusset portions 26 allow a foldfree fit of the tongue
portion 26 to the foot at each time, including donning and doffing.
Conventional water gussets, which would lead to folds, are
completely superfluous. This increases comfort.
[0055] FIG. 4 shows a highly simplified and schematic view of a mid
cut footwear assembly having the configuration of a water vapor
permeable and waterproof functional layer bootie 10 for a mid cut
shoe with an upper material layer 30 attached to the footwear
assembly. FIG. 5 shows a highly simplified and schematic view of
the footwear assembly of FIG. 4 in a view from the toe portion of
the footwear. FIG. 6 shows a highly simplified and schematic view
of the mid cut footwear comprising the footwear assembly of FIGS. 4
and 5, in a completed state.
[0056] As can be seen in FIGS. 4 to 6, the upper material layer 30
is attached to the footwear assembly 10 in the region of the instep
opening 8. Thus, it is particularly helpful in case the collar
layer 14 comprises elastic extensions 24, 26, 28 on its side
opposite the water proof and water vapor permeable functional layer
12. These extensions 24, 26, 28 are be configured to be folded over
and attached to the upper material layer 30 on an inner side
thereof. Thereby, the extensions 24, 26, 28 form a backing layer
covering openable portions (like the zipper portion 32 of the upper
material 30 visible in FIG. 6), tongue portions and/or water gusset
portions of the upper material layer 30. In such configurations,
the collar layer 14 may be folded over at the periphery of the
instep opening 8 such that the extensions 24, 26, 28 extend from
the instep opening 8 downwards. The extensions may be arranged
between the upper material and the footwear assembly. The downwards
extending portions 24, 26, 28 are attached to the inner side of the
upper material layer 30 and thereby allow to cover any openable
portions in the upper material layer 30 by an elastic layer on the
inner side. This is a particularly elegant design to cover openings
or slits in the upper material 30, which would otherwise have to be
covered by some flexible material. E.g. water gusset portions
required laterally from a tongue in conventional footwear designs
might be replaced completely by such folded over extensions 24, 26
of the elastic collar layer. The same applies to any portions in
the upper material layer where zippers 32 are provided. The slits
in the upper material being created when the zipper 32 is opened
might be easily backed by the elastic material of the folded over
extensions 28 of the collar layer 14.
* * * * *