U.S. patent application number 14/736160 was filed with the patent office on 2016-12-15 for method for manufacturing a garment having a rigid front portion and a stretchable back portion.
The applicant listed for this patent is 4 What It's Worth, Inc.. Invention is credited to Mary Livecchi.
Application Number | 20160362820 14/736160 |
Document ID | / |
Family ID | 57516496 |
Filed Date | 2016-12-15 |
United States Patent
Application |
20160362820 |
Kind Code |
A1 |
Livecchi; Mary |
December 15, 2016 |
METHOD FOR MANUFACTURING A GARMENT HAVING A RIGID FRONT PORTION AND
A STRETCHABLE BACK PORTION
Abstract
A method for making jeans. A material is weaved for use as a
front portion of the jeans. The warp portion of the weave is spun
with a combination of open-end and ring spinning. The weft portion
of the weave is spun with open-end spinning. The resulting weaved
material is then sulfur dyed, singed and pre-shrunk to form the
front portion. Another material is weaved for use as a back portion
of the jeans using a fabric composition which is 79% cotton, 20%
filament fiber polyester, 1% spandex. The warp portion of the weave
is spun using a combination of open-end and ring spinning. The weft
portion of the weave is made from the filament fiber polyester. The
resulting fabric composition weaved material is then indigo dyed
and singed and then pre-shrunk to form the back portion. The two
portions are cut and sewed together to produce the jeans.
Inventors: |
Livecchi; Mary; (Los
Angeles, CA) |
|
Applicant: |
Name |
City |
State |
Country |
Type |
4 What It's Worth, Inc. |
Los Angeles |
CA |
US |
|
|
Family ID: |
57516496 |
Appl. No.: |
14/736160 |
Filed: |
June 10, 2015 |
Current U.S.
Class: |
1/1 |
Current CPC
Class: |
D06P 3/243 20130101;
D06P 3/8228 20130101; D06P 3/6025 20130101; D03D 15/08 20130101;
D06P 3/82 20130101; D06P 3/8219 20130101; D10B 2201/02 20130101;
D06P 3/8223 20130101; D06C 7/02 20130101; D06P 3/828 20130101; D10B
2501/04 20130101; D03D 1/00 20130101; D06P 3/343 20130101; D10B
2331/10 20130101; D10B 2331/04 20130101; D06C 29/00 20130101 |
International
Class: |
D03D 1/00 20060101
D03D001/00; D06C 29/00 20060101 D06C029/00; D06C 7/02 20060101
D06C007/02; D06P 3/60 20060101 D06P003/60; D06P 3/82 20060101
D06P003/82 |
Claims
1. A method for making jeans comprising: a) weaving a material for
use as a front portion of said jeans using 100% cotton to obtain a
weave construction having a predetermined yarn count, wherein the
warp portion of the weave is spun with a combination of open-end
spinning and ring spinning with a predetermined thread count, and
the weft portion of the weave is spun with open-end spinning with a
predetermined thread count; b) sulfur dyeing the resulting cotton
fiber weaved material; c) singeing the sulfur dyed weaved material
to obtain a uniform and smooth fabric surface; d) pre-shrinking the
sulfur dyed weaved material after said singeing to form a front
portion; e) weaving a material for use as a back portion of said
jeans using a fabric composition which is 79% cotton, 20% filament
fiber polyester, 1% spandex to obtain a weave construction having a
predetermined yarn count, wherein the warp portion of the weave is
spun using a combination of open-end spinning and ring spinning
with a predetermined thread count, and the weft portion of the
weave is made from the filament fiber polyester with a
predetermined thread count; f) indigo dyeing the resulting fabric
composition weaved material; g) singeing the indigo dyed weaved
material to obtain a uniform and smooth fabric surface; h)
pre-shrinking the indigo dyed weaved material after said singeing
to form a back portion; i) cutting said front portion and said back
portion and sewing said cut front portion and back portion together
to produce said jeans.
2. The method defined by claim 1 wherein the predetermined yarn
count of the front portion is 10+10RSB*10.
3. The method defined by claim 1 wherein the predetermined yarn
count of the back portion is 10+9RSB*150 D/40 D+150 D/40 D
83*60.
4. The method defined by claim 1 wherein the predetermined thread
count of the warp portion of the weave of the front portion is 28
threads/cm.
5. The method defined by claim 1 wherein the predetermined thread
count of the weft portion of the weave of the front portion is 20
threads/cm.
6. The method defined by claim 1 wherein the predetermined thread
count of the warp portion of the weave of the back portion is 33
threads/cm.
7. The method defined by claim 1 wherein the predetermined thread
count of the filament fiber polyester of the back portion is 23.6
threads/cm.
Description
BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION
[0001] Denim is a sturdy cotton warp-faced twill textile in which
the weft passes under two or more warp threads. This twill weaving
produces the familiar diagonal ribbing of the denim that
distinguishes it from cotton duck.
[0002] It is a characteristic of most indigo denim that only the
warp threads are dyed, whereas the weft threads remain plain white.
As a result of the warp-faced twill weaving, one side of the
textile then shows the blue warp threads and the other side shows
the white weft threads. This is why blue jeans are white on the
inside. The indigo dyeing process, in which the core of the warp
threads remains white, creates denim's fading characteristics,
which are unique compared to other textiles.
[0003] After being made into an article of clothing, as part of the
manufacturing process, most denim articles are washed to make them
softer and to reduce or eliminate shrinkage (which could cause the
article to not fit properly after its owner washes it). In addition
to being washed, "washed denim" is sometimes artificially
distressed to produce a "worn" look. Much of the appeal of
artificially distressed denim is that it resembles dry denim which
has faded. In jeans made from dry denim, such fading is obtained as
a result of the jeans being worn by a person by the activities of
his or her daily life. This process creates what many enthusiasts
feel to be a more "natural" look than the look of artificially
distressed denim.
[0004] Most dry denim is made with 100% cotton and comes from
several different countries. In particular USA, Zimbabwe and Japan
are popular sources of cotton for making raw denim. Some prefer the
denim of one country to another for its purported durability,
fades, and feel. Dry denim also varies in weight, typically
measured in by the weight of a yard of denim in ounces. 12 Oz. or
less is considered light denim, 12 Oz. to 16 Oz. is considered
mid-weight, and over 16 Oz. is considered heavy weight. Heavier
denim is much more rigid and resistant to wear. Jeans having a
broken in look with vintage characteristics such as destruction
(the wear and tear of threads), natural worn in whiskers at the
crotch area (created by bending over and over) and the fading down
of the natural deep dark indigo, has been a popular trend for many
years. This worn in look is created by the natural wear and tear of
raw denim that fades and destructs in time.
[0005] In the early 60's spandex was invented and resulted in a
stretch yarn that could be woven into the mix of cotton yarn to
create what are referred to as stretch denims. Stretch denim
revolutionized the denim industry by enabling the manufacture of
tight fitting jeans that were soft and comfortable. However, the
stretch yarn used does not destruct and provide the desired
vintage, worn in look.
[0006] As a result, it has not been possible to produce jeans which
paired the characteristics of being able to produce the worn look
with a stretch, tight fitting jean. Although combining a rigid jean
material with a stretch jean material is not in and of itself a
problem, manufacturers have determined that it is not possible to
make such a combined product due to the different shrinkage factors
of the two fabrics when combined in one garment. Rigid denim has a
much different shrinkage percentage than the stretch denim. The
different shrinkage percentages results in puckering of the sides
where the two different materials are attached which is not an
acceptable result.
SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION
[0007] In order to address the problem in the prior art, a specific
blend of fibers and different size yarns is needed to overcome this
problem, that is, jeans need to be manufactured using a using a
rigid fabric front and a stretch fabric back while maintaining the
same character and shrinkage factors for both. In this connection,
according to the invention, a rigid fabric using 100% cotton yarn
for the front is used to match the fabric used for the back of the
jeans while maintaining the same character and shrinkage factors.
The 100% cotton yarn is blended with a filament fiber polyester and
a small amount of spandex all in the same size yarn to keep the
shrinkage consistent between the front and the back. In this manner
the front of the jeans can be stressed to provide a worn look while
the back of the jeans made of the stretch material produces a
tight, but comfortable fit without any puckering at the seams where
the two materials are sewn together.
DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION
[0008] The invented jeans are a combination having a front portion
made of a rigid jean material and a back portion made of a stretch
jean material. However, in order to obtain a finished product where
the two portions have the same character and shrinkage factors, a
specific combination of yarns used to make the two portions is
necessary. The rigid front of the garment is composed of a denim
fabric made as follows:
[0009] A. The fabric composition is 100% cotton;
[0010] B. The weave construction has a yarn count of
10+10RSB*10;
[0011] C. The warp portion of the weave is spun with a combination
of open-end spinning and ring spinning with a thread count of 28
threads/cm;
[0012] D. The weft portion of the weave is spun with open-end
spinning with a thread count 20 threads/cm;
[0013] E. The resulting cotton fibers are sulfur dyed; and
[0014] F. The constructed weave goes through a singeing process to
obtain a uniform and smooth fabric surface, then is pre-shrunk.
The stretch back of the garment is composed of a denim fabric made
as follows:
[0015] A. The fabric composition is 79% cotton, 20% filament fiber
polyester, 1% spandex;
[0016] B. The weave construction has a yarn count of 10+9RSB*150
D/40 D+150 D/40 D 83*60;
[0017] C. The warp portion of the weave is spun using a combination
of open-end spinning and ring spinning with a thread count of 33
threads/cm;
[0018] D. The weft portion of the weave is made from the filament
fiber polyester. There are two types of polyester yarn, filament
and spun. In an embodiment, a filament yarn that combines enough
fibers to obtain a tensile strength of 176.3 lbf (pounds per force)
is used. The thread count of the filament yarn is 23.6 threads/cm.
In another embodiment, the filament fiber polyester is spun using a
spinneret;
[0019] E. The fibers are indigo dyed; and
[0020] F. The constructed weave goes through a singeing process to
obtain a uniform and smooth fabric surface, and then is
pre-shrunk.
[0021] After the front and back portions are obtained, the two
materials are cut and sewn together in a manner well known in the
art to produce pair of jeans. Pockets, a zipper or zippers and
buttons can be added using well known prior art techniques to
obtain a finished product.
* * * * *