U.S. patent application number 15/026369 was filed with the patent office on 2016-08-18 for composition in form of an emulsion.
This patent application is currently assigned to L'OREAL. The applicant listed for this patent is L'OREAL. Invention is credited to Tu LUAN, Yan WANG.
Application Number | 20160235652 15/026369 |
Document ID | / |
Family ID | 53003142 |
Filed Date | 2016-08-18 |
United States Patent
Application |
20160235652 |
Kind Code |
A1 |
LUAN; Tu ; et al. |
August 18, 2016 |
COMPOSITION IN FORM OF AN EMULSION
Abstract
The present invention is a composition in form of an emulsion,
comprising at least one fatty phase, and at least one aqueous
phase, and: a) at least one first surfactant chosen from
C.sub.8-C.sub.22 alkyl dimethicone copolyols; b) at least one
second surfactant chosen from dimethicone copolyols, which is
different from the first surfactant a); c) at least one third
surfactant which is different from the first or the second
surfactant a) or b), having a HLB value of greater than or equal to
8; and d) at least one hydrophilic pigment.
Inventors: |
LUAN; Tu; (Shanghai, CN)
; WANG; Yan; (Shanghai, CN) |
|
Applicant: |
Name |
City |
State |
Country |
Type |
L'OREAL |
Paris |
|
FR |
|
|
Assignee: |
L'OREAL
Paris
FR
|
Family ID: |
53003142 |
Appl. No.: |
15/026369 |
Filed: |
October 31, 2013 |
PCT Filed: |
October 31, 2013 |
PCT NO: |
PCT/CN2013/086305 |
371 Date: |
March 31, 2016 |
Current U.S.
Class: |
1/1 |
Current CPC
Class: |
A61K 2800/596 20130101;
A61K 8/732 20130101; A61K 8/585 20130101; A61K 8/25 20130101; A61K
8/894 20130101; A61K 2800/592 20130101; A61K 2800/594 20130101;
A61Q 1/04 20130101; A61K 8/602 20130101; A61Q 1/02 20130101; A61K
8/86 20130101; A61K 8/31 20130101; A61K 8/375 20130101; A61K 8/39
20130101; A61K 8/29 20130101; A61K 8/06 20130101 |
International
Class: |
A61K 8/894 20060101
A61K008/894; A61K 8/06 20060101 A61K008/06; A61K 8/29 20060101
A61K008/29; A61K 8/25 20060101 A61K008/25; A61K 8/31 20060101
A61K008/31; A61K 8/39 20060101 A61K008/39; A61K 8/60 20060101
A61K008/60; A61K 8/73 20060101 A61K008/73; A61K 8/58 20060101
A61K008/58; A61Q 1/02 20060101 A61Q001/02; A61Q 1/04 20060101
A61Q001/04 |
Claims
1. A composition in form of an emulsion comprising at least one
fatty phase, at least one aqueous phase, and: a) at least one first
surfactant which is a C.sub.8-C.sub.22 alkyl dimethicone copolyol;
b) at least one second surfactant which is a dimethicone copolyol
different from the first surfactant a); c) at least one third
surfactant which is different from the first or the second
surfactant a) or b), having a HLB value of greater than or equal to
8; and d) at least one hydrophilic pigment.
2. The composition of claim h which is in form of a multiple
emulsion.
3. The composition of claim 1, wherein the first surfactant
C.sub.8-C.sub.22 alkyl dimethicone copolyol is a compound of
formula (I): ##STR00004## wherein: PE represents
(--C.sub.2H.sub.4O).sub.x--(C.sub.3H.sub.6O).sub.y--R, in which R
is a hydrogen atom or an alkyl radical of 1 to 4 carbon atoms; x
ranges from 0 to 100; y ranges from 0 to 80; x and y are not
simultaneously 0; m ranges from 1 to 40; n ranges from 10 to 200; o
ranges from 1 to 100; p ranges from 7 to 21; and q ranges from 0 to
4.
4. The composition of claim 1, wherein the first surfactant
C.sub.8-C.sub.22 alkyl dimethicone copolyol is a cetyl dimethicone
copolyol.
5. The composition of claim 1, wherein the at least one first
surfactant is present in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 20% by
weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
6. The composition of claim 1, wherein the second surfactant
dimethicone copolyol is a compound of formula (II): ##STR00005##
wherein: R.sub.1, R.sub.2, R.sub.3 independently of each other
represent a C.sub.1-C.sub.6 alkyl radical or a radical
--(CH.sub.2).sub.x--(OCH.sub.2CH.sub.2).sub.y--(OCH.sub.2CH.sub.2CH.sub.2-
).sub.z--OR.sub.4, at least one radical R.sub.1, R.sub.2 or R.sub.3
not being an alkyl radical; R.sub.4 being hydrogen, a
C.sub.1-C.sub.3 alkyl radical or a C.sub.2-C.sub.4 acyl radical; A
is an integer ranging from 0 to 200; B is an integer ranging from 0
to 50; provided that A and B are not equal to zero at the same
time; x is an integer ranging from 1 to 6; y is an integer ranging
from 1 to 30; and z is an integer ranging from 0 to 5.
7. The composition of claim 1, wherein the second surfactant
dimethicone copolyol is a compound of formula (III): ##STR00006##
wherein: A is an integer ranging from 20 to 105; B is an integer
ranging from 2 to 10; and y is an integer ranging from 10 to
20.
8. The composition of claim 1, wherein the dimethicone copolyol is
a compound of formula (IV):
HO--(CH.sub.2CH.sub.2O).sub.y--(CH.sub.2).sub.3--[(CH.sub.3).sub.2SiO].su-
b.A'--[(CH.sub.3).sub.2Si]--(CH.sub.2).sub.3--(OCH.sub.2CH.sub.2).sub.y--O-
H (IV), wherein A' and y are integers ranging from 10 to 20.
9. The composition of claim 1, wherein the second surfactant is
present in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 20% by weight, relative
to the total weight of the composition.
10. The composition of claim 1, wherein the third surfactant has a
HLB value from 8 to 20.
11. The composition of claim 1, wherein the third surfactant is a
non-ionic, anionic, amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant, or a
mixture thereof.
12. The composition of claim 1, wherein the third surfactant is
selected from the group consisting of polyoxyethylenated sorbitol
fatty esters, polyoxyethylenated fatyyl alcohols,
polyoxyethylenated alkylphenols, condensates of ethylene oxide and
of propylene oxide, esters of fatty acids and of glycerol or of
polyglycerol, ethers of polyethylene glycol and/or of polypropylene
glycol, and of glycerol, esters derived from the reaction of fatty
acids and polyethylene glycol and/or polypropylene glycol glycerol
eters, esters of sucrose and of fatty acids comprising from 12 to
30 carbon atoms, alkylpolyglucosides, alkyl sulphates, alkyl ether
sulphates and their salts, alkyl sulphacetates, alkyl
sulphosuccinates, polypeptides, amino acid derivatives, sulphoates,
isethionates, or a mixture thereof, more preferably, the third
surfactant is chosen from esters of fatty acids and of glycerol or
of polyglycerol, alkylpolyglucosides, or a mixture thereof, more
preferably, the third surfactant is chose from glyceryl stearate,
PEG-100 stearate, decyl glucoside, polyglyceryl-4 caprate, or a
mixture thereof.
13. The composition of claim 1, wherein the third surfactant is
present in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 20% by weight, relative
to the total weight of the composition.
14. The composition of claim 1, wherein the at least one
hydrophilic pigment is an untreated hydrophilic pigment, a treated
hydrophilic pigment, or a mixture thereof.
15. The composition of claim 14, wherein the at least one
hydrophilic pigment is an untreated hydrophilic pigment in the form
of an untreated metal oxide.
16. The composition of claim 14, wherein the at least one
hydrophilic pigment is a treated hydrophilic pigment in the form of
silica and alumina treated titanium dioxide, silica treated iron
oxide, or a mixture thereof.
17. The composition of claim 1, wherein the at least one
hydrophilic pigment is present in an amount ranging from 0.5% to
30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
18. The composition of claim 1, further comprising at least one
organic filler or mineral filler.
19. The composition of claim 1, further comprising at least one
thickener selected from the group consisting of a hydrophilic
thickener, a lipophilic thickener, and a mixture thereof.
20. The composition of claim 1, further comprising at least one
volatile or non-volatile oil selected from the group consisting of
a hydrocarbon-based oil, a silicone oil, a fluoro oil, a non-fluoro
oil and a mixture thereof.
21. The composition of claim 1, wherein the at least one fatty
phase is present in an amount ranging from 1% to 50%, relative to
the total weight of the composition.
22. The composition of claim 1, wherein the at least one aqueous
phase is present in an amount ranging from 1% to 90%, relative to
the total weight of the composition.
23. A process, comprising applying the composition of claim 1 to
skin of a subject.
Description
TECHNICAL FIELD
[0001] The present invention relates to a composition, especially
cosmetic composition for caring for/making up the keratin
materials, especially the skin and the lips, and more particularly
a cosmetic composition of emulsion type, exhibiting optimized water
washability effect, and meanwhile maintaining good make up
effect.
BACKGROUND ART
[0002] Cosmetic compositions for caring for/making up keratin
materials, especially the skin and the lips, more especially the
skin, also known as foundations, concealers, or tinted creams, are
commonly used to give an aesthetic color to the skin, for example,
to the face, in order to conceal skin imperfections such as redness
and spots.
[0003] For centuries, consumers around the world, especially in
Asia, are in search of novel cosmetic products for improving the
appearance of keratin materials and especially the skin, in
particular the surface appearance (visible and/or tactile
unevenness) and/or the skin complexion, an external sign of a
healthy glow, health and youth.
[0004] These goals can be achieved by applying to the skin the
conventional foundations.
[0005] US2005/0008592 discloses a foundation in the formula of a
water-in-oil emulsion comprising a fatty phase, an aqueous phase,
at least one surfactant chosen from C.sub.8-C.sub.22 alkyl
dimethicone copolyols, at least one other surfactant chosen from
dimethicone copolyols and a mixture of volatile oils in a large
amount (more than 6%).
[0006] US2005/0002890 also discloses a fluid cosmetic composition
in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion comprising a liquid fatty
phase, an aqueous phase, a dimethicone copolyol and a
C.sub.8-C.sub.22 alkyldimethicone copolyol, characterized in that
it comprises solid particles of polymethyl methacrylate and in that
the liquid fatty phase comprises volatile hydrocarbon-based oil,
the said composition being free of cyclotetrasiloxane.
[0007] However, the conventional products as such raise concerns of
the consumers in the following aspects: firstly, pigments
containing in the foundation may cause clogging issue to the skin
pores; secondly, removing of the foundation is time consuming and a
cause of skin keratinization; thirdly, residues remain on skin even
after using makeup removal.
[0008] Thus there exists a need for a novel composition to solve
the issues aforementioned.
[0009] Conventional oil-in-water type foundation/tinted creams are
developed to solve the water washability issue. However this type
of compositions can only be partly removed by water, therefore
exhibits poor water washability. Besides, the compositions as such
lack of long-lasting make up effect due to its hydrophilic
property.
[0010] Therefore there remains the need to find stable care and/or
makeup products, which exhibits an optimized water washability
effect, and at the same time possesses good make up effect, for
example homogeneous and long-lasting make up effect.
DISCLOSURE OF INVENTION
[0011] Such a composition can be obtained using at least one first
surfactant chosen from alkyl dimethicone copolyols, at least one
second surfactant chosen from dimethicone copolyols, which is
different from the first surfactant, at least one third surfactant
which is different from the first or the second surfactant, having
a HLB value of greater than or equal to 8, and at least one
hydrophilic pigment.
[0012] Consequently, according to a first aspect, the subject of
the present invention is a composition in form of an emulsion,
comprising at least one fatty phase, and at least one aqueous
phase, and: [0013] a) at least one first surfactant chosen from
C.sub.8-C.sub.22 alkyl dimethicone copolyols; [0014] b) at least
one second surfactant chosen from dimethicone copolyols, which is
different from the first surfactant a); [0015] c) at least one
third surfactant which is different from the first or the second
surfactant a) or b), having a HLB value of greater than or equal to
8; and [0016] d) at least one hydrophilic pigment.
[0017] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition of the
present invention is in form of a multiple emulsion, such as
water-in-oil-in-water emulsion, or oil-in-water-in-oil emulsion,
preferably an oil-in-water-in-oil emulsion.
[0018] In a preferred embodiment, the present invention comprises
at least one filler, organic or mineral, chosen from modified or
unmodified starch, preferably modified starch, such as acetylated
oxidized starch.
[0019] According to a preferred embodiment, the present invention
comprises at least one thickener, polymeric or mineral, preferably
chosen from hydrophilic thickeners, lipophilic thickeners, or a
mixture thereof. More preferably the thickener is chosen from
polysaccharide biopolymers, lipophilic clays, hydrophobic silicas,
or a mixture thereof, more preferably the thickener is chosen
xanthan gum, disteardimonium hectorite, silica silylate, or a
mixture thereof.
[0020] In another aspect, the present invention is also directed
towards a process for caring for/making up the skin, in particular
the face, characterized in that it comprises the application to the
skin of at least one composition in accordance with the
invention.
[0021] The current invention as described above is stable over time
at room temperature (25.degree. C.), for example, after storage for
2 months, and further, for example, for 4 months.
[0022] The present invention provides good make up effect to the
skin, such as homogeneous make up effect on the skin, and long
lasting make up effect on the skin.
[0023] More importantly, the present invention possesses an
optimized water washability property.
[0024] By "water washability" it intends to mean the washable
ability of the present composition when using water for rinsing off
from the skin.
DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION
[0025] According to the present invention, the composition in form
of an emulsion comprising at least one fatty phase, at least one
aqueous phase, and: [0026] a) at least one first surfactant chosen
from C.sub.8-C.sub.22 alkyl dimethicone copolyols; [0027] b) at
least one second surfactant chosen from dimethicone copolyols,
which is different from the first surfactant a); [0028] c) at least
one third surfactant which is different from the first or the
second surfactant a) or b), having a HLB value of greater than or
equal to 8; and [0029] d) at least one hydrophilic pigment.
Fatty Phase
[0030] The composition according to the present invention comprises
at least one fatty phase containing at least one oil.
[0031] Preferably, according to an embodiment, the composition of
the present invention comprises at least two fatty phases.
[0032] The term "oil" means any fatty substance that is in liquid
form at room temperature (20-25.degree. C.) and at atmospheric
pressure (760 mmHg).
[0033] The fatty phase(s) that is suitable for preparing the
cosmetic compositions according to the invention may comprise
hydrocarbon-based oils, silicone oils, fluoro oils or non-fluoro
oils, or mixtures thereof.
[0034] The oils may be volatile or non-volatile.
[0035] According to a preferred embodiment, when present, the ratio
between volatile oil and non-volatile oil is greater than or equal
to 1:3, more preferably greater than or equal to 1:1. They may be
of animal, plant, mineral or synthetic origin.
[0036] The term "non-volatile oil" means oil that remains on the
keratin materials, especially the skin and the lips at room
temperature (20-25.degree. C.) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg).
More specifically, non-volatile oil has an evaporation rate
strictly less than 0.01 mg/cm.sup.2/min.
[0037] To measure this evaporation rate, 15 g of oil or of oil
mixture to be tested are placed in a crystallizing dish 7 cm in
diameter, which is placed on a balance in a large chamber of about
0.3 m.sup.3 that is temperature-regulated, at a temperature of
25.degree. C., and hygrometry-regulated, at a relative humidity of
50%. The liquid is allowed to evaporate freely, without stirring
it, while providing ventilation by means of a fan (Papst-Motoren,
reference 8550 N, rotating at 2700 rpm) placed in a vertical
position above the crystallizing dish containing said oil or said
oil mixture, the blades being directed towards the crystallizing
dish, 20 cm away from the bottom of the crystallizing dish. The
mass of said oil or oil mixture remaining in the crystallizing dish
is measured at regular intervals. The evaporation rates are
expressed in mg of oil evaporated per unit of area (cm.sup.2) and
per unit of time (minute).
[0038] The term "volatile oil" means any non-aqueous medium that is
capable of evaporating on contact with the keratin materials,
especially the skin and the lips in less than one hour, at room
temperature (20-25.degree. C.) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg).
The volatile oil is a cosmetic volatile oil, which is liquid at
room temperature. More specifically, a volatile oil has an
evaporation rate of between 0.01 and 200 mg/cm.sup.2/min, limits
included.
[0039] For the purposes of the present invention, the term
"silicone oil" means oil comprising at least one silicon atom, and
especially at least one Si--O group.
[0040] The term "fluoro oil" means oil comprising at least one
fluorine atom.
[0041] The term "hydrocarbon-based oil" means oil mainly containing
hydrogen and carbon atoms.
[0042] As hydrocarbon-based oils, mention may be made of:
hydrocarbon-based oils of animal origin, hydrocarbon-based oils of
plant origin, linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or
synthetic origin, synthetic ethers containing from 10 to 40 carbon
atoms; synthetic esters, fatty alcohols that are liquid at room
temperature, with a branched and/or unsaturated carbon-based chain
containing from 12 to 26 carbon atoms, C.sub.12-C.sub.22 higher
fatty acids, and mixtures thereof.
[0043] Mentions maybe made of the hydrocarbon-based oils such as
liquid paraffins and derivatives thereof, petroleum jelly,
polydecenes, polybutenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as
Parleam, and squalane, for example Squalane which is available
under the trademark Pripure 3759-LQ-(GD) sold by Croda.
[0044] The oils may optionally comprise oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur
and/or phosphorus atoms, for example in the form of hydroxyl or
acid radicals.
[0045] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition of the
present invention further comprises silicone oils.
[0046] As silicone oils, mention may be made of: [0047] linear or
cyclic volatiles oils, especially those with a viscosity of less
than or equal to 8 centistokes (cSt) (8.times.10.sup.-6 m.sup.2/s),
and especially containing from 2 to 10 silicon atoms and in
particular from 2 to 7 silicon atoms, these silicones optionally
comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups containing from 1 to 10 carbon
atoms; [0048] of linear or cyclic non-volatile
polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS); polydimethylsiloxanes comprising
alkyl, alkoxy or phenyl groups, which are pendant or at the end of
a silicone chain, these groups containing from 2 to 24 carbon
atoms; [0049] phenyl silicones, for instance phenyl trimethicones,
phenyl dimethicones, phenyl trimethylsiloxy diphenyl siloxanes,
diphenyl dimethicones, diphenyl methyldiphenyl trisiloxanes and
2-phenylethyl trimethylsiloxy silicates, [0050] and mixtures
thereof
[0051] In a particular embodiment, mention may be made of
cyclohexasiloxane which is available under the trademark, for
example, KF-996 sold by the company Shin Etsu, or Xiameter.RTM.
PMX-0246 sold by the company Dow Corning, or dimethicones which is
available under the trademark Xiameter.RTM. PMX-200 silicone fluid
5cs, Xiameter.RTM. PMX-200 silicone fluid 350cs, or Xiameter.RTM.
PMX-200 silicone fluid 10cs sold by the company Dow Corning.
[0052] Preferably, the composition may comprise a fatty phase
presenting in the composition in a content ranging from 1% to 50%,
preferably from 2% to 40%, and more preferably from 5% to 35% by
weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
Aqueous Phase
[0053] The composition according to the invention comprises at
least one aqueous phase.
[0054] The aqueous phase comprises water.
[0055] The aqueous phase may also comprise water-miscible organic
solvents (at room temperature of 20-25.degree. C.), for instance
monoalcohols containing from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, such as ethanol
or isopropanol; polyols especially containing from 2 to 20 carbon
atoms, preferably containing from 2 to 10 carbon atoms and
preferentially containing from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, such as
glycerol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol,
hexylene glycol, dipropylene glycol or diethylene glycol; glycol
ethers (especially containing from 3 to 16 carbon atoms) such as
mono-, di- or tripropylene glycol (C.sub.1-C.sub.4)alkyl ethers,
mono-, di- or triethylene glycol (C.sub.1-C.sub.4)alkyl ethers, and
mixtures thereof.
[0056] The aqueous phase may also comprise stabilizers, for example
sodium chloride, magnesium dichloride or magnesium sulfate.
[0057] In particular, a composition of the invention may comprise
an aqueous phase in a content ranging from 1% to 90% by weight,
especially from 5% to 80% and more particularly from 10% to 75% by
weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
C.sub.8-C.sub.22 Alkyl Dimethicone Copolyols
[0058] The C.sub.8-C.sub.22 alkyl dimethicone copolyols present in
the composition according to the invention is an oxypropylenated
and/or oxyethylenated polymethyl (C.sub.8-C.sub.22)alkyl dimethyl
methyl siloxane.
[0059] The C.sub.8-C.sub.22 alkyl dimethicone copolyol is
advantageously a compound of the following formula (I):
##STR00001##
in which: [0060] PE represents
(--C.sub.2H.sub.4O).sub.x--(C.sub.3H.sub.8O).sub.y--R, R being
chosen from a hydrogen atom and an alkyl radical of 1 to 4 carbon
atoms, x ranging from 0 to 100 and y ranging from 0 to 80, x and y
not being simultaneously 0, [0061] m ranges from 1 to 40, [0062] n
ranges from 10 to 200, [0063] o ranges from 1 to 100, [0064] p
ranges from 7 to 21, [0065] q ranges from 0 to 4, and
preferably:
R=H,
[0066] m=1 to 10, n=10 to 100, o=1 to 30, p=15, q=3.
[0067] As C.sub.8-C.sub.22 alkyl dimethicone copolyol, there may be
mentioned cetyl dimethicone copolyols, for example, copolyols of
cetyl dimethicones and alkoxylated derivative of dimethicones, more
preferably for example cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 dimethicone, such as the
product marketed under the name Abil.RTM. EM-90 by the company
Goldschmidt.
[0068] The C.sub.8-C.sub.22 alkyl dimethicone copolyol may be
present in the composition according to the invention in an amount
ranging from 0.1% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of
the emulsion, in particular ranging from 0.5% to 10% by weight,
even better ranging from 1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total
weight of the composition.
Dimethicone Copolyols
[0069] The dimethicone copolyols, which is different from
C.sub.8-C.sub.22 alkyl dimethicone copolyols mentioned above,
present in the composition according to the invention is an
oxypropylenated and/or oxyethylenated
polydimethylmethylsiloxane.
[0070] It is possible to use, as dimethicone copolyol, those
corresponding to the following formula (II):
##STR00002##
in which:
[0071] R.sub.1, R.sub.2, R.sub.3, independently of each other,
represent a C.sub.1-C.sub.6 alkyl radical or a radical
--(CH.sub.2).sub.x--(OCH.sub.2CH.sub.2).sub.y--(OCH.sub.2CH.sub.2CH.sub.2-
).sub.z--OR.sub.4, at least one radical R.sub.1, R.sub.2 or R.sub.3
not being an alkyl radical; R.sub.4 being hydrogen, a
C.sub.1-C.sub.3 alkyl radical or a C.sub.2-C.sub.4 acyl
radical;
[0072] A is an integer ranging from 0 to 200;
[0073] B is an integer ranging from 0 to 50; provided that A and B
are not equal to zero at the same time;
[0074] x is an integer ranging from 1 to 6;
[0075] y is an integer ranging from 1 to 30;
[0076] z is an integer ranging from 0 to 5.
[0077] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, in the
compound of formula (II), R.sub.1=R.sub.3=methyl radical, x is an
integer ranging from 2 to 6 and y is an integer ranging from 4 to
30. R.sub.4 is in particular hydrogen.
[0078] There may be mentioned, by way of example of compounds of
formula (II), the compounds of formula (III):
##STR00003##
in which A is an integer ranging from 20 to 105, B is an integer
ranging from 2 to 10 and y is an integer ranging from 10 to 20.
[0079] There may also be mentioned, by way of example of silicone
compounds of formula (II), the compounds of formula (IV):
HO--(CH.sub.2CH.sub.2O).sub.y--(CH.sub.2).sub.3--[(CH.sub.3).sub.2SiO].s-
ub.A'--[(CH.sub.3).sub.2Si]--(CH.sub.2).sub.3--(OCH.sub.2CH.sub.2).sub.y---
OH (IV)
in which A' and y are integers ranging from 10 to 20.
[0080] It is possible to use, as dimethicone copolyol, those sold
under the names DC.RTM. 5329, DC.RTM. 7439-146, DC.RTM. 2-5695,
Q4-3667 by the company Dow Corning; KF-6013, KF-6015, KF-6016,
KF-6017 by the company Shin-Etsu.
[0081] The compounds DC.RTM. 5329, DC.RTM. 7439-146, DC.RTM. 2-5695
are compounds of formula (III) where respectively A is 22, B is 2
and y is 12; A is 103, B is 10 and y is 12; A is 27, B is 3 and y
is 12.
[0082] Advantageously, mentions maybe made of the dimethicone
copolyol PEG-10 dimethicone under the trademark KF-6017 that is
sold by the company Shin-Etsu.
[0083] The dimethicone copolyol may be present in the emulsion
according to the invention in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 20% by
weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, and
preferably ranging from 0.5% to 10% by weight, and preferably
ranging from 0.8% to 5% by weight, even more preferably 3% by
weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Third Surfactant
[0084] The composition of the present invention comprises at least
one third surfactant. The third surfactant is different from the
first or second surfactant aforementioned. The third surfactant has
a HLB value of greater than or equal to 8, according to Griffin's
method, at the temperature of 25.degree. C.
[0085] The HLB value according to GRIFFIN is defined in J.
Ploughshare. Cosm. Chem. 1954 (volume 5), pages 249-256.
[0086] Preferably, the third surfactant has a HLB value between 8
and 20 according to Griffin's method, at the temperature of
25.degree. C., more preferably between 10 and 15 according to
Griffin's method, at the temperature of 25.degree. C.
[0087] Preferably, the third surfactant is chosen from non-ionic
surfactants, anionic surfactants, amphoteric or zwitterionic
surfactant, or a mixture thereof.
[0088] Non-ionic surfactants that are suitable to the present
composition may be chosen from: [0089] polyoxyethylenated sorbitol
fatty esters such as the product sold under the name TWEEN 20 by
ICI; [0090] polyoxyethylenated fatty alcohols such as the product
sold under the name REMCOPAL 21912 AL by Gerland; [0091]
polyoxyethylenated alkylphenols such as the product sold under the
name TRITON X 100 by Rohm-Haas; and [0092] condensates of ethylene
oxide and of propylene oxide such as those sold under the names
SYNPERONIC PE by ICI and in particular those referenced L 31, L 64,
F 38, F 88, L 92, P 103, F 108 and F 127; [0093] esters of fatty
acids and glycerol or polyglycerol, preferably esters of
C.sub.6-C.sub.30, more preferably C.sub.8-C.sub.16, fatty acids,
saturated or unsaturated, and glycerol or polyglycerol. Mentions
may be made of for example glyceryl stearate, glyceryl isostearate,
polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate, PEG-100 stearate, glyceryl caprylate,
polyglyceryl 1-4 caprate, or a mixture thereof. Such products are
available on the market, for example, a mixture of glyceryl
stearate and PEG-100 stearate is available under the tradename
Simulsol.TM. 165 sold by the company Seppic, or such as the product
polyglyceryl 1-4 caprate sold under the tradename Tegosoft.RTM. PC
41 by the company Evonik Goldshmidt. [0094] ethers of polyethylene
glycol and/or of polypropylene glycol, and of glycerol such as
glycereth-26 and PPG-24 glycereth-24; [0095] esters derived from
the reaction a) of fatty acids and b) polyethylene glycol and/or
polypropylene glycol glycerol ethers such as, for example,
glycereth-7, or glycereth-25 PCA isostearate; [0096] esters of
sucrose and of fatty acids comprising from 12 to 30 carbon atoms,
in particular 14 to 20 carbon atoms, said esters possibly
comprising from 2 to 5 fatty chains, such as for example sucrose
distearate, sucrose tristearate and sucrose palmitate; [0097]
alkylpolyglucosides, preferably those that contain an alkyl group
comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms and preferably from 8 to 16
carbon atoms, and that contain a hydrophilic group (glucoside)
preferably comprising 1.2 to 3 sugar units. Mention may be made,
for example, of decyl glucoside
(Alkyl-C.sub.9/C.sub.11-polyglucoside (1.4)) such as the product
sold under the name Plantacare.RTM. 2000 UP by Cogins (BASF),
products sold under the name MYDOL 10.RTM. by Kao Chemicals, the
product sold under the name PLANTAREN.RTM. 2000 UP by Cognis, and
the product sold under the name ORAMIX.RTM. NS 10 by Seppic;
caprylyl/capryl glucoside such as the product sold under the name
ORAMIX.RTM. CG 110 by Seppic; laurylglucoside such as the products
sold under the names PLANTAREN.RTM. 1200 N and PLANTACARE.RTM. 1200
by Cognis; and cocoglucoside such as the product sold under the
name PLANTACARE.RTM. 818/UP by Cognis, cetostearylglucoside
optionally as a mixture with cetostearyl alcohol sold, for example,
under the name MONTANOV 68 by Seppic under the name TEGO.RTM. CARE
CG90 by Goldschmidt and under the name EMULGADE KE3302 by Henkel;
arachidylglucoside, for example in the form of the mixture of
arachidyl and behenyl alcohols and of arachidylglucoside sold under
the name MONTANOV 202 by Seppic; cocoylethylglucoside, for example
in the form of the (35/65) mixture with cetyl and stearyl alcohols,
sold under the name MONTANOV 82 by Seppic and mixtures thereof.
[0098] Mention may in particular be made, among anionic
surfactants, of: [0099] alkyl sulphates, alkyl ether sulphates and
their salts, in particular their sodium salts, such as the Sodium
Laureth Sulphate/Magnesium Laureth Sulphate/Sodium Laureth-8
Sulphate/Magnesium Laureth-8 Sulphate mixture sold under the name
TEXAPON ASV by Henkel; sodium lauryl ether sulphate (C.sub.12-14
70/30) (2.2 EO), sold under the names SIPON AOS 225 or TEXAPON.RTM.
N702 PASTE by Henkel; ammonium lauryl ether sulphate (C.sub.12-14
70/30) (3 EO) sold under the name SIPON LEA 370 by Henkel; ammonium
alkyl (C.sub.12-C14) ether (9 EO) sulphate, sold under the name
RHODAPEX.RTM. AB/20 by Rhodia Chimie; [0100] alkyl sulphoacetates,
such as that sold under the name LATHANOL.RTM. LAL by Stepan;
[0101] alkyl sulphosuccinates, for example the oxyethylenated (3
EO) lauryl alcohol (C.sub.12/C.sub.14 70/30) monosulphosuccinate
sold under the names SETACIN 103 SPECIAL or REWOPOL SB-FA 30 K 4 by
Witco, the disodium salt of a hemisulphosuccinate of
C.sub.12-C.sub.14 alcohols sold under the name SETACIN F SPECIAL
PASTE by Zschimmer Schwarz, the oxyethylenated (2 EO) disodium
oleamidosulphosuccinate sold under the name STANDAPOL SH 135 by
Henkel, the oxyethylenated (5 EO) lauramide monosulphosuccinate
sold under the name LEBON A-5000 by Sanyo, the disodium salt of
oxyethylenated (10 EO) lauryl citrate monosulphosuccinate sold
under the name REWOPOL.RTM. SB CS 50 by Witco or the disodium salt
of ricinoleic acid monoethanolamide monosulphosuccinate sold under
the name REWODERM.RTM. S 1333 by Witco; [0102] polypeptides which
are obtained, for example, by condensation of a fatty chain with
cereal amino acids and in particular wheat and oat amino acids,
such as, for example, the potassium salt of lauroyl hydrolysed
wheat protein sold under the name AMINOFOAM.TM. W OR by Croda, the
triethanolamine salt of cocoyl hydrolysed soya protein sold under
the name MAY-TEIN SY by Maybrook, the sodium salt of lauroyl oat
amino acids sold under the name PROTEOL.TM. OAT by Seppic, the
hydrolysate of collagen grafted to coconut fatty acid sold under
the name GELIDERM 3000 by Deutsche Gelatine or the soya proteins
acylated with hydrogenated coconut acids sold under the name
PROTEOL VS 22 by Seppic; [0103] amino acid derivatives, for example
among sarcosinates and in particular acylsarcosinates, such as
sodium lauroyl sarcosinate, sold under the name SARKOSYL NL 97 by
Ciba or sold under the name ORAMIX.TM. L 30 by Seppic, sodium
myristoyl sarcosinate, sold under the name NIKKOL SARCOSINATE MN by
Nikkol, or sodium palmitoyl sarcosinate, sold under the name NIKKOL
SARCOSINATE PN by Nikkol; alaninates, such as sodium
N-lauroyl-N-methylamidopropionate, sold under the name SODIUM
NIKKOL ALANINATE LN 30 by Nikkol or sold under the name ALANONE ALE
by Kawaken, and triethanolamine N-lauroyl-N-methylalanine, sold
under the name ALANONE ALTA by Kawaken; N-acylglutamates, such as
triethanolamine monococoyl glutamate, sold under the name
ACYLGLUTAMATE CT-12 by Ajinomoto, and triethanolamine lauroyl
glutamate, sold under the name ACYLGLUTAMATE LT-12 by Ajinomoto;
aspartates, such as the mixture of triethanolamine N-lauroyl
aspartate and of triethanolamine N-myristoyl aspartate sold under
the name ASPARACK LM-TS2 by Mitsubishi; or glycine derivatives,
such as sodium N-cocoyl glycinate and potassium N-cocoyl glycinate,
for example the products sold under the names AMILITE GCS-12 and
AMILITE GCK-12 by Ajinomoto; [0104] sulphonates, for example
.alpha.-olefin sulphonates, such as the sodium .alpha.-olefin
(C.sub.14-16) sulphonate sold under the name BIO-TERGE.RTM. AS-40
by Stepan, sold under the names WITCONATE AOS PROTEGE and
SULFRAMINE AOS PH 12 by Witco or sold under the name BIO-TERGE.RTM.
AS-40 CG by Stepan or the sodium secondary olefin sulphonate sold
under the name HOSTAPUR.RTM. SAS 30 by Clariant; or linear
alkylarylsulphonates, such as the sodium xylenesulphonate sold
under the names MANROSOL SXS30, MANROSOL SXS40 or MANROSOL SXS93 by
Manro; [0105] isethionates, in particular acyl isethionates, such
as sodium cocoyl isethionate, for example the product sold under
the name JORDAPON CI P by Jordan.
[0106] Mention may in particular be made, among amphoteric or
zwitterionic surfactants, of: [0107] alkylamido alkylamine
derivatives, such as N-disodium
N-cocoyl-N-carboxymethoxyethyl-N-(carboxymethyl)ethylenediamine
(CTFA name: Disodium cocoamphodiacetate), sold as a saline aqueous
solution under the name MIRANOL C2M CONC NP by Rhodia Chimie;
N-sodium N-cocoyl-N-hydroxyethyl-N-(carboxymethyl)ethylene-diamine
(CTFA name: sodium cocoamphoacetate) and the mixture of coconut
acid ethanolamides (CTFA name: Cocamide DEA); [0108] betaines, such
as, for example, coco betaine, such as the product sold under the
name DEHYTON.RTM. AB-30 by Henkel, lauryl betaine, such as the
product sold under the name GENAGEN.RTM. KB by Clariant,
oxyethylenated (10 EO) lauryl betaine, such as the product sold
under the name LAURYL ETHER (10 EO) BETAINE by Shin Nihon Rica, or
oxyethylenated (10 EO) stearyl betaine, such as the product sold
under the name STEARYL ETHER (10 EO) BETAINE by Shin Nihon Rica;
[0109] alkyl amidopropyl betaines and their derivatives, such as,
for example, cocamidopropyl betaine, sold under the name LEBON 2000
HG by Sanyo or sold under the name EMPIGEN.RTM. BB by Albright
& Wilson, lauramidopropyl betaine, sold under the name
REWOTERIC AMB12P.RTM. by Witco, such as cocamidopropyl betaine, for
example the products sold under the names TEGO BETAINE by
Goldschmidt; [0110] imidazoline derivatives, such as the product
sold under the name CHIMEXANE HD by Chimex; and [0111] their
mixtures.
[0112] Preferably, the third surfactant is chosen from non-ionic
surfactants.
[0113] More preferably, the third surfactant is chosen from esters
of fatty acids and glycerol or polyglycerol, alkylpholyglucosides,
or a mixture thereof.
[0114] More preferably, the third surfactant is chosen from esters
of fatty acides and glycerol or polyglycerol of C.sub.6-C.sub.30,
more preferably C.sub.6-C.sub.16, fatty acids, saturated or
unsaturated, and glycerol or polyglycerol, alkylpolyglucosides
containing an alkyl group comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms,
preferably from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and containing a hydrophilic
group (glycoside) preferably comprising 1.2 to 3 sugar units, or a
mixture thereof.
[0115] According to a preferred embodiment, the third surfactant of
the present invention is chosen from glyceryl stearate, PEG-100
stearate, polyglyceryl-4 caprate, decyl glucoside, or a mixture
thereof.
[0116] Preferably, the at least one third surfactant is present in
the composition of the present invention from 0.1% to 20% by
weight, preferably from 0.5% to 10% by weight, more preferably from
1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the
composition.
Hydrophilic Pigments
[0117] The composition according to the present invention comprises
at least one hydrophilic pigment, surface treated or untreated.
[0118] The hydrophilic pigments can be hydrophilic pigments in an
untreated state, or can be pigments which have been surface-treated
for hydrophilization, or a mixture thereof.
[0119] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition of the
present invention comprises at least one treated hydrophilic
pigment.
[0120] The hydrophilic pigments may be any type which has
conventionally been used or is usable in the fields of cosmetics,
examples of which include inorganic pigments, organic pigments,
pearlescent pigments.
[0121] The term "pigments" should be understood as meaning white or
coloured, mineral or organic particles that are insoluble in an
aqueous solution, which are intended to colour and/or opacify the
resulting film.
[0122] As mineral pigments that may be used in the invention,
mention may be made of titanium oxide, titanium dioxide, zirconium
oxide, zirconium dioxide, cerium oxide or cerium dioxide and also
zinc oxide, iron oxide or chromium oxide, ferric blue, manganese
violet, ultramarine blue and chromium hydrate, and mixtures
thereof. According to one preferred mode, titanium oxides and
dioxides and iron oxides (especially yellow, black or red iron
oxide), and mixtures thereof, will be used.
[0123] Among the organic pigments that may be used in the
invention, mention may be made of carbon black, pigments of D &
C type, lakes based on cochineal carmine or on barium, strontium,
calcium or aluminium, or alternatively the diketopyrrolopyrroles
(DPP) described in documents EP-A-0 542669, EP-A-0 787730, EP-A-0
787731 and WO-A-96/08537.
[0124] Advantageously, the pigments in accordance with the
invention are iron oxides and/or titanium dioxides.
[0125] The term `pearlescent pigments` or "nacres" should be
understood as meaning coloured particles of any form, which may or
may not be iridescent, especially produced by certain molluscs in
their shell, or alternatively synthesized, and which have a colour
effect via optical interference.
[0126] The nacres may be chosen from nacreous pigments such as
titanium mica coated with an iron oxide, titanium mica coated with
bismuth oxychloride, titanium mica coated with chromium oxide,
titanium mica coated with an organic dye and also nacreous pigments
based on bismuth oxychloride. They may also be mica particles at
the surface of which are superposed at least two successive layers
of metal oxides and/or of organic dyestuffs.
[0127] Examples of nacres that may also be mentioned include
natural mica coated with titanium oxide, with iron oxide, with
natural pigment or with bismuth oxychloride.
[0128] The nacres may more particularly have a yellow, pink, red,
bronze, orange, brown, gold and/or coppery colour or glint.
[0129] As illustrations of nacres that may be used in the context
of the present invention, mention may be made of gold-coloured
nacres sold especially by the company Engelhard under the name
Brillant gold 212G (Timica), Gold 222C (Cloisonne), Sparkle gold
(Timica), Gold 4504 (Chromalite) and Monarch gold 233X (Cloisonne);
the bronze nacres sold especially by the company Merck under the
names Bronze fine (17384) (Colorona) and Bronze (17353) (Colorona)
and by the company Engelhard under the name Super bronze
(Cloisonne); the orange nacres sold especially by the company
Engelhard under the names Orange 363C (Cloisonne) and Orange MCR
101 (Cosmica) and by the company Merck under the names Passion
orange (Colorona) and Matte orange (17449) (Microna); the
brown-tinted nacres sold especially by the company Engelhard under
the names Nu-antique copper 340XB (Cloisonne) and Brown CL4509
(Chromalite); the nacres with a copper glint sold especially by the
company Engelhard under the name Copper 340A (Timica); the nacres
with a red glint sold especially by the company Merck under the
name Sienna fine (17386) (Colorona); the nacres with a yellow glint
sold especially by the company Engelhard under the name Yellow
(4502) (Chromalite); the red-tinted nacres with a golden glint sold
especially by the company Engelhard under the name Sunstone G012
(Gemtone); the pink nacres sold especially by the company Engelhard
under the name Tan opale G005 (Gemtone); the black nacres with a
golden glint sold especially by the company Engelhard under the
name Nu antique bronze 240 AB (Timica); the blue nacres sold
especially by the company Merck under the name Matte blue (17433)
(Microna); the white nacres with a silvery glint sold especially by
the company Merck under the name Xirona Silver; and the
golden-green pinkish-orange nacres sold especially by the company
Merck under the name Indian summer (Xirona), and mixtures
thereof.
[0130] When using untreated pigments, the pigment is chosen so as
to have a relatively large average particle size, preferably having
an average particle size of 0.1 to 50 .mu.m, more preferably 0.1 to
30 .mu.m, and even more preferably 0.1 to 20 .mu.m.
[0131] In a particular embodiment, the hydrophilic pigment is an
untreated inorganic pigment, preferably an untreated metal oxide,
such as titanium oxide and/or iron oxide.
[0132] Mentions may be made of, for example, the products sold
under the trade name HOMBITAN FF PHARMA from SACHTLEBEN, the
products sold under the trade name Sunpuro.TM. red iron oxide
C33-8001 (INCI name iron oxides R), Sunpuro.TM. black iron oxide
C33-7001 (INCI name iron oxides B), or Sunpuro.TM. yellow iron
oxide C33-9001 (INCI name iron oxides Y) by the company SUN.
[0133] In another particular embodiment, the hydrophilic pigment is
a treated hydrophilic pigment, ie a pigment which has been
surface-treated for hydrophilization with any treatment agent which
has been conventionally used to confer a hydrophilic property to
pigments. Generally, a hydrophilic organic agent for
surface-treating a material in order to optimize its dispersion in
aqueous medium is more particularly chosen from biological
polymers, carbohydrates, polysaccharides, polyacrylates and
polyethylene glycol derivatives. The materials thus treated may, in
the absence of being soluble in a solvent medium, such as water, be
dispersible therein. As examples of biological polymers for coating
the dyestuffs to be dissolved according to the invention, mention
may be made of polymers based on monomers of carbohydrate type.
More particularly, mention may be made of biosaccharide gum,
chitosans and derivatives thereof, such as butoxy chitosan,
carboxymethyl chitosan, carboxybutyl chitosan, chitosan gluconate,
chitosan adipate, chitosan glycolate, chitosan lactate, etc.,
chitins and derivatives thereof, such as carboxymethyl chitin,
chitin glycolate; cellulose and derivatives thereof such as
cellulose acetate; microcrystalline cellulose; distarch phosphate;
sodium hyaluronate; soluble proteoglycans; galacto-arabinans;
glycosaminoglycans; glycogen; sclerotium gum; dextran; starch and
derivatives thereof; and mixtures thereof. But it is also possible
to use pigments which have been surface-treated by surface treating
agents such as in a silica treatment, alumina treatment, silica
alumina treatment or a titania treatment.
[0134] In the present invention, a silica and silica (and) alumina
treatment treatment are especially preferable for selection, and
the treatment itself is conventional in the present technical
field.
[0135] Mentions may be made of such pigments, for example, the
products sold under the trade name Sympholight WW (INCI name
titanium dioxide and silica and alumina), Sympholight RW-S (INCI
name iron oxide and silica), Sympholight BW-S (INCI name iron oxide
and silica), Sympholight YW-S (INCI name iron oxide and silica), by
the company JGC Catalysts and Chemicals. Advantageously, the
composition of the present invention comprises at least one treated
hydrophilic pigment chosen from silica and alumina treated titanium
dioxide, silica treated iron oxide, or a mixture thereof.
[0136] Advantageously, a composition of the invention may comprise
at least one hydrophilic pigment in a content ranging from 0.5% to
30% by weight, especially from 1% to 20% and more particularly from
2% to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the
composition.
Fillers
[0137] A composition in accordance with the invention may comprise
at least one filler of organic or mineral nature.
[0138] The term "filler" should be understood to mean colourless or
white solid particles of any shape which are in a form that is
insoluble and dispersed in the medium of the composition. They are
mineral or organic in nature and make it possible to confer
softness and mattness on the composition and a uniform makeup
result.
[0139] The fillers used in the compositions according to the
present invention may be in lamellar, globular or spherical form,
in the form of fibers or in any other intermediate form between
these defined forms.
[0140] The fillers according to the invention may or may not be
surface-coated, and in particular they may be surface-treated with
silicones, amino acids, fluoro derivatives or any other substance
that promotes the dispersion and compatibility of the filler in the
composition.
[0141] Among the mineral fillers that can be used in the
compositions according to the invention, mention may be made of
talc, mica, trimethyl siloxysilicate, kaolin, bentone, calcium
carbonate, magnesium hydrogen carbonate, hydroxyapatite, boron
nitride, glass or ceramic microcapsules, and mixtures thereof.
[0142] A filler suitable for the invention may preferentially be
talc, or a mixture thereof.
[0143] Among the organic fillers that can be used in the
compositions according to the invention, mention may be made of
polyamide powders (Nylon.RTM. Orgasol from Atochem),
poly-.beta.-alanine and polyethylene powders,
polytetrafluoroethylene (Teflon.RTM. from DuPont) powders,
lauroyllysine, starch, modified or unmodified, specially oxidized
ester modified starch, such as acetylated oxidized starch sold
under the tradename GF-A390 by the company Suzhou Gaofeng,
tetrafluoroethylene polymer powders, hollow polymer microspheres,
such as Expancel (Nobel Industrie), metal soaps derived from
organic carboxylic acids containing from 8 to 22 carbon atoms,
preferably from 12 to 18 carbon atoms, for example zinc stearate,
magnesium stearate or lithium stearate, zinc laurate, magnesium
myristate, Polypore.RTM. L 200 (Chemdal Corporation), silicone
resin microbeads (Tospearl.RTM. from Toshiba, for example),
polyurethane powders, in particular powders of crosslinked
polyurethane comprising a copolymer, said copolymer comprising
trimethylol hexyllactone, for instance the hexamethylene
diisocyanate/trimethylol hexyllactone polymer sold under the name
Plastic Powder D-400.RTM. or Plastic Powder D-800.RTM. by the
company Toshiki, carnauba microwaxes, such as the product sold
under the name MicroCare 350.RTM. by the company Micro Powders,
microwaxes of synthetic wax, such as the product sold under the
name MicroEase 114S.RTM. by the company Micro Powders, microwaxes
constituted of a mixture of carnauba wax and of polyethylene wax,
such as those sold under the names MicroCare 300.RTM. and 310.RTM.
by the company Micro Powders, microwaxes constituted of a mixture
of carnauba wax and of synthetic wax, such as the product sold
under the name MicroCare 325.RTM. by the company Micro Powders,
polyethylene microwaxes, such as those sold under the names
Micropoly 200.RTM., 220.RTM., 220L.RTM. and 250S.RTM. by the
company Micro Powders; and mixtutres thereof.
[0144] Advantageously, the filler suitable for the composition of
the present invention is chosen from starch, modified or
unmodified, more preferably acetylated oxidized starch.
[0145] Preferably, the at least one filler is present in the
composition of the present invention from 0 to 20% by weight,
preferably from 0.01% to 10%, more preferably from 0.5% to 5% by
weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Thickeners
[0146] The composition according to the invention may comprise at
least one thickener chosen from hydrophilic thickeners, lipophilic
thickeners, or a mixture thereof.
Hydrophilic Thickeners
[0147] The term "hydrophilic thickener" is intended to mean a
compound capable of increasing the viscosity of the aqueous phase
of the composition.
[0148] The hydrophilic thickeners may be used alone or in
combination. These thickeners may in particular be chosen from
cellulosic polymers and gums.
[0149] As hydrophilic thickeners, mention may in particular be made
of water-soluble or water-dispersible thickening polymers. They may
in particular be chosen from: [0150] polyvinylpyrrolidone, [0151]
polyvinyl alcohol, [0152] modified or unmodified carboxyvinyl
polymers, such as the products sold under the name Carbopol.RTM.
(CTFA name: carbomer) by the company Goodrich; [0153] homopolymers
or copolymers of acrylic acid or methacrylic acid or salts thereof
and esters thereof, and in particular the products sold under the
names Versicol F.RTM. or Versicol K.RTM. or Salcare SC95 by the
company Allied Colloid, Ultrahold 8.RTM. by the company Ciba-Geigy,
polyacrylates and polymethacrylates, such as the products sold
under the names Lubrajel and Norgel by the company Guardian or
under the name Hispagel by the company Hispano Chimica, polyacrylic
acids of Synthalen K type; [0154] polyacrylamides; [0155]
copolymers of acrylic acid and of acrylamide sold in the form of
their sodium salt under the names Reten.RTM. by the company
Hercules, poly(sodium methacrylate) sold under the name Darvan No
7.RTM. by the company Vanderbilt, the sodium salts of
polyhydroxycarboxylic acids sold under the name Hydagen F.RTM. by
the company Henkel; [0156] 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic
acid polymers and copolymers, which are optionally crosslinked
and/or neutralized, for instance the
poly(2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid) sold by the company
Clariant under the name Hostacerin AMPS (CTFA name: ammonium
polyacryldimethyltauramide); [0157] crosslinked anionic
acrylamide/AMPS copolymers, in the form of a W/O emulsion, such as
those sold under the name Sepigel 305 (CTFA name:
Polyacrylamide/C13-14 lsoparaffin/Laureth-7) and under the name
Simulgel 600 (CTFA name: Acrylamide/Sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate
copolymer/Isohexadecane/Polysorbate 80) by the company SEPPIC;
[0158] polyacrylic acid/alkyl acrylate copolymers of Pemulen type;
[0159] polysaccharide biopolymers, for instance xanthan gum, guar
gum, gum Arabic, locus bean gum, acacia gum, scleroglucans, chitin
derivatives and chitosan derivatives, carrageenans, gellans,
alginates, or celluloses such as microcrystalline cellulose,
carboxymethylcellu lose, hydroxymethylcellu lose, hydroxyethylcellu
lose and hydroxypropylcellulose. Mentions maybe made of, for
example, xanthan gum sold under the trade name Keltrol.RTM. CG-T by
the company CP Kelco; [0160] hydrophilic fumed silicas obtained by
high-temperature hydrolysis of a volatile silicon compound in an
oxyhydrogen flame, producing a finely divided silica. The
hydrophilic silicas have a large number of silanol groups at their
surface. Such hydrophilic silicas are, for example, sold under the
names Aerosil 130.RTM., Aerosil 200.RTM., Aerosil 255.RTM., Aerosil
300.RTM. and Aerosil 380.RTM. by the company Degussa, or Cab-O-Sil
HS-5.RTM., Cab-O-Sil EH-5.RTM., Cab-O-Sil LM-130.RTM., Cab-O-Sil
MS-55.RTM. and Cab-O-Sil M-5.RTM. by the company Cabot. They
preferably have a particle size that can be nanometric to
micrometric, for example ranging from about 5 to 200 nm; [0161]
hydrophilic clays; [0162] associative polymers, for instance the
PEG-150/stearyl alcohol/SMDI copolymer sold under the name Aculyn
46 by Rohm & Haas, or the steareth-100/PEG-136/HDI copolymer
sold under the name Rheolate FX 1100 by Elementis; [0163] and
mixtures thereof.
Lipophilic Thickeners
[0164] The term "lipophilic thickener" is intended to mean a
compound capable of increasing the viscosity of the fatty phase of
the composition.
[0165] Preferably the lipophilic thickener is chosen from mineral
lipophilic thickeners.
[0166] Mention may in particular be made of lipophilic clays, for
instance optionally modified clays, such as hectorites modified
with a C.sub.10 to C.sub.22 ammonium chloride, for instance
hectorite modified with distearyldimethylammonium chloride.
[0167] Clays are silicates containing a cation which can be chosen
from calcium, magnesium, aluminum, sodium, potassium and lithium
cations, and mixtures thereof.
[0168] By way of examples of such products, mention may be made of
clays of the smectite family, such as montmorillonites, hectorites,
bentonites, beidellites or saponites, and also of the vermiculite,
stevensite and chlorite family. These clays may be of natural or
synthetic origin.
[0169] The clay may be chosen from montmorrillonite, bentonite,
hectorite, attapulgite and sepiolite, and mixtures thereof. The
clay is preferably a bentonite or a hectorite.
[0170] Organophilic clays are clays modified with a chemical
compound chosen from quaternary amines, tertiary amines, amine
acetates, imidazolines, amine soaps, fatty sulfates, alkyl aryl
sulfonates and amine oxides, and mixtures thereof.
[0171] As organophilic clays, mention may be made of quaternium-18
bentonites such as those sold under the names Bentone 3, Bentone 38
and Bentone 38V by the company Elementis, Tixogel VP by the company
United Catalyst, Claytone 34, Claytone 40 and Claytone XL by the
company Southern Clay; stearalkonium bentonites such as those sold
under the names Bentone 27V by the company Elementis, Tixogel LG by
the company United Catalyst, and Claytone AF and Claytone APA by
the company Southern Clay; quaternium-18/benzalkonium bentonites
such as those sold under the names Claytone HT and Claytone PS by
the company Southern Clay, disteardimonium hectorite such as those
sold under the name Bentone 38 VCG by the company ELEMENTIS, and a
mixturethereof.
[0172] According to one preferred embodiment, the lipophilic
thickener is chosen from organophilic modified clays, such as
disteardimonium hectorite.
[0173] Mention may also be made of hydrophobic silicas, for
instance fumed silica optionally subjected to a hydrophobic surface
treatment, the particle size of which is less than 1 .mu.m. It is
in fact possible to chemically modify the surface of the silica, by
chemical reaction generating a reduced number of silanol groups
present at the surface of the silica. It is in particular possible
to substitute silanol groups with hydrophobic groups: a hydrophobic
silica is then obtained. The hydrophobic groups may be: [0174]
trimethylsiloxyl groups, which are in particular obtained by
treatment of fumed silica in the presence of hexamethyldisilazane.
Silicas thus treated are known as "silica silylate" according to
the CTFA (6th edition, 1995). They are sold, for example, under the
references Aerosil R812.RTM. by the company Degussa, and Cab-O-Sil
TS-530.RTM. by the company Cabot; [0175] dimethylsilyloxyl or
polydimethylsiloxane groups, which are obtained in particular by a
treatment of fumed silica in the presence of polydimethylsiloxane
or of dimethyldichlorosilane. Silicas thus treated are known as
"silica dimethyl silylate" according to the CTFA (6th edition,
1995). They are, for example, sold under the references Aerosil
R972.RTM. and Aerosil R974.RTM. by the company Degussa, and
Cab-O-Sil TS-610.RTM. and Cab-O-Sil TS-720.RTM. by the company
Cabot.
[0176] The hydrophobic fumed silica preferably has a particle size
that may be nanometric to micrometric, for example ranging from
about 5 to 200 nm.
[0177] According to a preferred embodiment, the thickener, if
present is chosen from xanthan gum, disteardimonium hectorite,
silica silylate, or a mixture thereof, more preferably, the
thickener is disteardimonium hectorite.
[0178] The at least one thickener may be present in the composition
according to the invention from 0 to 20% by weight, preferably in a
content ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight and preferentially
ranging from 0.5% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of
the composition.
Galenic Form
[0179] The composition according to the invention may be in various
forms, in particular in the form of dispersion or emulsion,
especially such as a water/oil or oil/water emulsion or multiple
emulsions.
[0180] Dispersion may be made as an aqueous phase or as an oily
phase.
[0181] An emulsion may have an oily or aqueous continuous phase.
Such an emulsion may be, for example, an inverse (W/O) emulsion or
a direct (O/W) emulsion, or alternatively a multiple emulsion
(W/O/W or O/W/O).
[0182] In the case of emulsions, a multiple emulsion, especially
oil-in-water-in-oil emulsion is preferred.
[0183] According to a preferred embodiment of the present
invention, the composition is prepared following the steps of:
[0184] 1) adding at least one third surfactant and at least one
hydrophilic pigment as defined in the present invention to water,
mixing until homogeneous under room temperature (25.degree. C.),
obtaining a phase B;
[0185] 2) mixing at least one oil with the phase B, mixing for 15
minutes by stirring to obtain emulsion 1, which is a oil-in-water
emulsion;
[0186] 3) mixing at least one first surfactant chosen from
C.sub.8-C.sub.22 alkyl dimethicone copolyols and at least one
second surfactant chosen from dimethicone copolyols, which is
different from the first surfactant, and/or at least one oil to
obtain a fatty phase A;
[0187] 4) adding the emulsion 1 obtained in step 2) to the fatty
phase A obtained in step 3), homogenizing the mixture by stirring,
to form a oil-in-water-in-oil emulsion.
Additives
[0188] In a particular embodiment, a cosmetic composition according
to the invention further comprises at least one compound chosen
from hydrophilic solvents, lipophilic solvents, additional oils,
and mixtures thereof.
[0189] A cosmetic composition according to the invention may also
comprise any additive usually used in the field under
consideration, chosen, for example, from gums, resins, additional
thickening agents, structuring agents such as waxes, dispersants,
antioxidants, essential oils, preserving agents, fragrances,
neutralizers, antiseptics, additional UV-screening agents, cosmetic
active agents, such as vitamins, moisturizers, emollients or
collagen-protecting agents, and mixtures thereof.
[0190] It is a matter of routine operations for a person skilled in
the art to adjust the nature and amount of the additives present in
the compositions in accordance with the invention such that the
desired cosmetic properties and stability properties thereof are
not thereby affected.
Method and Use
[0191] The composition of the present invention can be used for a
non-therapeutic process, such as a process for caring for/making up
the skin, in particular the face, comprising the application to the
skin of the composition according to the present invention.
[0192] The present invention also relates to a use of the
composition according to the present invention, as it is or in
cosmetic product for making up/caring for/cleansing/make up
removing products for the skin, especially for the face and the
lips.
[0193] The examples that follow are aimed at illustrating the
compositions and processes according to this invention, but are not
in any way a limitation of the scope of the invention. All the
parts and percentages in the examples are given on a weight basis
and all the measurements were obtained at about 25.degree. C.,
unless otherwise mentioned.
EXAMPLES
Example 1
Formulation Example
[0194] The following compositions were prepared (inv comp stands
for invention compositions, compa comp stands for comparative
compositions):
TABLE-US-00001 % of ingredient by raw material (wt %) Inv Inv Compa
Compa Compa Phase INCI name comp 1 comp 2 comp 1 comp 2 comp 3
Fatty phase - CETYL PEG/PPG-10/1 3 3 3 3 3 A1 DIMETHICONE (ABIL
.RTM. EM 90 from EVONIK GOLDSCHMIDT) PEG-10 DIMETHICONE 2 2 2 2 2
(KF-6017 from SHIN ETSU) Third POLYGLYCERYL-4 5.3 0 5.3 0 0
surfactants CAPRATE (TEGOSOFT .RTM. PC 41 from EVONIK GOLDSCHMIDT)
GLYCERYL STEARATE 0 2 0 0 0 (and) PEG-100 STEARATE (SIMULSOL .TM.
165 from SEPPIC) DECYL GLUCOSIDE 0 3 0 0 0 (PLANTACARE .RTM. 2000
UP from COGNIS (BASF)) POLYGLYCERYL 0 0 0 0 5.3 ISOSTEARATE (ISOLAN
.RTM. GI 34 from EVONIC GOLDSCHMIDT) with HLB less than 8 Pigments
TITANIUM DIOXIDE 8.7 0 0 8.7 8.7 (and) SILICA (and) ALUMINA
(SYMPHOLIGHT WW from JGC CATALYSTS AND CHEMICALS) IRON OXIDES (and)
0.3 0 0 0.3 0.3 SILICA (SYMPHOLIGHT RW-S from JGC CATALYSTS AND
CHEMICALS) IRON OXIDES (and) 0.14 0 0 0.14 0.14 SILICA (SYMPHOLIGHT
BW-S from JGC CATALYSTS AND CHEMICALS) IRON OXIDES (and) 0.86 0 0
0.86 0.86 SILICA (SYMPHOLIGHT YW-S from JGC CATALYSTS AND
CHEMICALS) TITANIUM DIOXIDE 0 8.65 0 0 0 (HOMBITAN FF PHARMA from
SACHTLEBEN) IRON OXIDES R 0 0.3 0 0 0 (SUNPURO .TM. RED IRON OXIDE
C33-8001 from SUN) IRON OXIDES R 0 0.15 0 0 0 (SUNPURO .TM. BLACK
IRON OXIDE C33-7001 from SUN) IRON OXIDES R 0 0.9 0 0 0 (SUNPURO
.TM. YELLOW IRON OXIDE C33-9001 from SUN) IRON OXIDES COATED 0 0
0.9 0 0 WITH PERFLUOROALKYL PHOPHATE (FA50DYF from KOBO) IRON
OXIDES COATED 0 0 0.3 0 0 WITH PERFLUOROALKYL PHOPHATE (FA50DRF
from KOBO) IRON OXIDES COATED 0 0 0.15 0 0 WITH PERFLUOROALKYL
PHOPHATE (FA65DBF from KOBO) TITANIUM OXIDES 0 0 8.65 0 0 COATED
WITH PERFLUOROALKYL PHOPHATE (FA65DF from KOBO) Thickeners
DISTEARDIMONIUM 0 1 0 0 0 HECTORITE (BENTONE .RTM. 38 VCG from
ELEMENTIS) Fillers ACETYLATED 0 1 0 0 0 OXIDATED STARCH (GF-A390
from SUZHOU GAOFENG STARCH TECHNOLOGY) Fatty phase
CYCLOHEXASILOXANE 18.5 16.5 18.5 18.5 18.5 A1 (XIAMETER .RTM.
PMX-0246 CYCLOHEXASILOXANE (DOW CORNING)) Fatty phase SQUALANE
(PRIPURE 5 5 5 0 5 A2 3759-LQ-(GD) (CRODA)) Aqueous Water Qs 100 Qs
100 Qs 100 Qs 100 Qs 100 phase
Remarks:
[0195] Invention composition 1 comprises hydrophilic treated
pigments;
[0196] Invention composition 2 comprises hydrophilic untreated
pigments;
[0197] Comparative composition 1 comprises hydrophobic treated
pigments;
[0198] Comparative composition 2 does not comprise the said third
surfactant;
[0199] Comparative composition 3 comprises polyglyceryl isostearate
with HLB value less than 8.
[0200] The compositions as listed above were prepared following the
steps of:
[0201] 1) adding the third surfactants and pigments to the aqueous
phase, mixing the mixture until homogeneous under room temperature
(25.degree. C.), obtaining a phase B;
[0202] 2) adding fatty phase A2 to the phase B, homogenizing for 15
minutes by stirring to obtain emulsion 1, which is a 02/W
emulsion;
[0203] 3) adding the thickener, if any, to the fatty phase A1,
mixing the mixture until homogeneous, obtaining fatty phase A;
[0204] 4) adding the emulsion 1 obtained in step 2) to the fatty
phase A obtained in step 3), homogenizing the mixture by
stirring.
Example 2
Evaluation Example
[0205] Evaluations of the makeup effect such as homogeneity and
long lasting, and water washability effect of the invention
compositions 1 and 2 and comparative compositions 1, 2, and 3
prepared above were performed, by means of Chromasphere with a
definition of 410.times.410 pixels, according to the following
protocol:
the measurements were taken in a standardized manner at 20.degree.
C., before and after application with the bare fingers (for makeup
effect evaluation), or washing with lukewarm water after
application (for water washability effect evaluation), of the
composition onto the skin of a model.
[0206] Evaluations of the above mentioned effects of the
compositions were also performed by the panelists. [0207] Protocol
for instrumental measurements of the makeup effect and water
washability effect
[0208] A colorimetric measurement of the skin before and after
making up was carried out by measuring the means for the planes of
10 women models, C* (chroma, the distance out from the neutral
axis-saturationv), H* (hue, the angle/direction in the 360 degree
range), and L* (lightness), respectively. For each of the 10 women
models, an image was taken using a Chromasphere with a definition
of 410.times.410 pixels. The results were expressed in the
following manner: the color was quantified by the C* (chroma, the
distance out from the neutral axis -saturationv), H* (hue, the
angle/direction in the 360 degree range), and L* (lightness)
analysed by the camera. The homogeneity and long lasting were
calculated by the variation of these variables after 3 hours of
makeup (deltaE.sub.94). The deltaE, dE or else .DELTA.E.sub.94 is
defined as a measurement of difference between two colors. The
formula was published in 1995 by a technical committee of the CIE
(TC 1-29), as shown below:
.DELTA. E 94 * = ( .DELTA. L * K L ) 2 + ( .DELTA. C ab * 1 + K 1 C
1 * ) 2 + ( .DELTA. H ab * 1 + K 2 C 1 * ) 2 ##EQU00001##
where in:
.DELTA.L*=L*.sub.1-L*.sub.2
.DELTA.C*.sub.ab=C*.sub.1-C*.sub.2
.DELTA.H*.sub.ab= {square root over
(.DELTA.E*.sub.ab.sup.2-.DELTA.L*.sup.2-.DELTA.C*.sub.ab.sup.2)}
[0209] K.sub.L, K.sub.1 and K.sub.2 are weighting factors;
[0210] L.sub.1*, C.sub.1* and H.sub.1* are the coordinates in the
colorimetric space of the first color to be compared and L.sub.2*,
C.sub.2* and H.sub.2* those of the second.
[0211] More specifically, the measurements of makeup effect
(homogeneity and long lasting) were carried out and the
measurements were made at the following times:
[0212] T.sub.0=measurement on naked skin freed of makeup, before
application of the test composition
[0213] T.sub.imm=measurement after application and drying (10
minutes) of the test composition
[0214] T.sub.3h=measurement 3 hours after application of the
composition
[0215] (T.sub.imm-T.sub.0) measurement of the homogenity of the
composition
[0216] (T.sub.3h-T.sub.imm) measurement of the long lasting of the
composition
[0217] The measurements were performed on a panel of 10 women
models who were kept in an air-conditioned (22.degree.
C.+/-2.degree. C.) waiting room for 15 min before the beginning of
the test. They removed their makeup and an image of one of their
cheeks was acquired using the Chromasphere with a definition of
410.times.410 pixels. This image made it possible to measure the
color at T.sub.0 before applying makeup. Approximately 100 mg of
the invention compositions 1 and 2, and the comparative
compositions 1, 2, and 3 formulated in the formulation example were
then weighed out into a watch glass and were applied with the bare
fingers, respectively, to the half of the face on which the
measurement was carried out at T.sub.0.
[0218] Right after application of the compositions, an image of the
made-up cheek was acquired using the Chromasphere. This image made
it possible to measure the color immediately after applying the
compositions (T.sub.imm). The women models then returned to the
air-conditioned room for 3 hours. Finally, an image of the made-up
cheek after waiting for 3 hours was acquired using the
Chromasphere. This image made it possible to measure the color
after wearing the compositions for 3 h (T.sub.3h).
[0219] Each image obtained using the camera was processed by
coxellography. The standard deviation of each monochrome plane was
calculated. The product of the three standard deviations was equal
to the coxellographic index. This parameter was used for the
statistical calculation. The more uniform the skin, the smaller the
standard deviation. The coxellographic index changes in the same
way since it is the product of the standard deviations of the three
planes C* (chroma), H* (hue), and L* (lightness).
[0220] The results were expressed by calculating the difference
(T.sub.imm-T.sub.0), which measures the homogeneity, and the
difference (T.sub.3h-T.sub.imm) measures the long lasting.
[0221] For the measurements performed, it was considered that:
+ poor homogeneity or no long lasting effect; ++ good homogeneity
or good long lasting +++ very strong homogeneity or very good long
lasting
[0222] The measurements of water washability effect were carried
out and the measurements were made at the following times:
[0223] T.sub.10min=measurement 10 minutes after application of the
composition
[0224] T.sub.20min=measurement 20 minutes after washing the skin
where the composition is applied on by the lukewarm water
[0225] (T.sub.10min-T.sub.0) and (T.sub.20min-T.sub.0) measurement
of the water washability of the composition
[0226] The measurements were performed on a panel of 10 women
models who were kept in an air-conditioned (22.degree.
C.+/-2.degree. C.) waiting room for 15 min before the beginning of
the test. They removed their makeup and an image of one of their
cheeks was acquired using the Chromasphere with a definition of
410.times.410 pixels. This image made it possible to measure the
color at T.sub.0 before applying makeup. Approximately 10 mg of the
invention compositions 1 and 2, and the comparative compositions 1,
2, and 3 were then weighed out into a watch glass and were applied
with the bare fingers, respectively, to the face skin of a 12.56
cm.sup.2 area on which the T.sub.0 measurement was carried out.
[0227] After a drying time of 10 min, an image of the made-up cheek
area was acquired using the Chromasphere. This image made it
possible to measure the color immediately after applying makeup
(T.sub.10min). Then the made-up cheek was washed by lukewarm water.
Finally, an image of the cleaned cheek area after waiting for 20
minutes after washing of the made-up cheek area was acquired using
the Chromasphere. This image made it possible to measure the color
after washing of the made-up cheek area (T.sub.20min).
[0228] The results were expressed by the following equation:
Difference
(%)={[.DELTA.E.sub.94(T.sub.10min-T.sub.0)-.DELTA.E.sub.94(T.sub.20min-T.-
sub.0)]/.DELTA.E.sub.94(T.sub.10min-T.sub.0)}.times.100%
[0229] The higher the difference (%) is, the better the water
washability of the composition. The products exhibit excellent
water washability if the difference is greater than 80%, preferably
greater than 85%. The products do not possess an acceptable water
washability effect if the difference is lower than 70%. [0230]
Protocol for panel evaluations of the makeup effect and water
washability effect of the compositions
[0231] Finally, the scores of the makeup effects and the water
washability effects of the invention compositions 1 and 2, and the
comparative compositions 1 to 3 were given by the panelists of the
10 women models, respectively.
[0232] Makeup effects were evaluated by the panelists 15 minutes
after 100 mg of the compositions prepared in formulation example on
half of the face of the women models, respectively.
[0233] Water washability effects were evaluated by the same
panelists 20 minutes after washing the half face where the
compositions were applied on by lukewarm water.
5: very good 4: basically good; 3: acceptable; 2: slightly poor and
not acceptable; 1: poor, not acceptable.
[0234] The result of the makeup effects and water washability
effects were as follow:
TABLE-US-00002 Test Inv comp 1 Inv comp 2 Compa comp 1 Compa comp 2
Compa comp 3 Homogeneity +++ +++ +++ +++ +++ (Coxelo (T.sub.imm -
T.sub.0)) Long lasting +++ +++ +++ +++ +++ (eveness) (Coxelo
(T.sub.3 h - T.sub.imm)) Long lasting 0.891 0.93 1.026 0.91 0.90
(color) (.DELTA.E.sub.94 (T.sub.3 h - T.sub.imm)) Water washability
88.36% 89.79% 46.35% 68.84% 37.42% (Difference %) Makeup effect 5 5
5 5 4 evaluated by the panelists Washability effect 5 5 1 2 1
evaluated by the panelists
[0235] From the results listed above, it is observed that the
invention compositions 1 and 2, comparing to the comparative
inventions 1, 2, and 3, possess good makeup effect, while only the
invention compositions 1 and 2 exhibit optimized water washability
effect, comparing to the comparative compositions 1, 2, and 3.
[0236] Based on the above listed evaluation results, the inventors
discovered that the composition according to the present invention
overcomes the technical issues existing in the prior art, and
provides a stable cosmetic composition with optimized water
washability effect, and meanwhile maintaining good make up
effect.
* * * * *