U.S. patent application number 14/654558 was filed with the patent office on 2015-12-03 for cosmetic composition.
This patent application is currently assigned to Conopco, Inc., a/b/a UNILEVER. The applicant listed for this patent is CONOPCO, INC., D/B/A UNILEVER, CONOPCO, INC., D/B/A UNILEVER. Invention is credited to Mingqi AO, Naresh Dhirajlal GHATLIA, Hangsheng LI, Xiuxia WANG, Caigen YUAN.
Application Number | 20150342865 14/654558 |
Document ID | / |
Family ID | 51019871 |
Filed Date | 2015-12-03 |
United States Patent
Application |
20150342865 |
Kind Code |
A1 |
AO; Mingqi ; et al. |
December 3, 2015 |
COSMETIC COMPOSITION
Abstract
Disclosed is a cosmetic composition comprising from 0.01 to 9%
of film-forming polymer having a contact angle of at least
85.degree. by weight of the composition, from 0.01 to 3.5% of fatty
compound by weight of the composition and optical particle, wherein
the fatty compound is selected from fatty acid, soap, or a mixture
thereof.
Inventors: |
AO; Mingqi; (Shanghai,
CN) ; GHATLIA; Naresh Dhirajlal; (Shanghai, CN)
; LI; Hangsheng; (Shanghai, CN) ; WANG;
Xiuxia; (Shanghai, CN) ; YUAN; Caigen;
(Shanghai, CN) |
|
Applicant: |
Name |
City |
State |
Country |
Type |
CONOPCO, INC., D/B/A UNILEVER |
Englewood Cliffs |
NJ |
US |
|
|
Assignee: |
Conopco, Inc., a/b/a
UNILEVER
Englewood Cliffs
NJ
|
Family ID: |
51019871 |
Appl. No.: |
14/654558 |
Filed: |
December 18, 2013 |
PCT Filed: |
December 18, 2013 |
PCT NO: |
PCT/CN2013/089863 |
371 Date: |
June 22, 2015 |
Current U.S.
Class: |
424/59 ;
424/63 |
Current CPC
Class: |
A61K 8/898 20130101;
A61K 8/63 20130101; A61K 8/675 20130101; A61K 8/365 20130101; A61K
2800/43 20130101; A61K 2800/54 20130101; A61K 8/29 20130101; A61K
8/28 20130101; A61K 2800/591 20130101; A61K 8/892 20130101; A61K
8/925 20130101; A61K 8/891 20130101; A61K 2800/10 20130101; A61K
2800/594 20130101; A61K 8/361 20130101; A61K 8/89 20130101; A61K
8/27 20130101; A61Q 19/08 20130101; A61K 8/72 20130101; A61Q 17/04
20130101; A61Q 1/02 20130101; A61Q 19/00 20130101; A61Q 90/00
20130101; A61K 8/31 20130101; A61K 8/58 20130101; A61K 8/676
20130101; A61K 8/92 20130101 |
International
Class: |
A61K 8/89 20060101
A61K008/89; A61K 8/29 20060101 A61K008/29; A61Q 1/02 20060101
A61Q001/02; A61K 8/36 20060101 A61K008/36 |
Foreign Application Data
Date |
Code |
Application Number |
Dec 24, 2012 |
CN |
PCT/CN2012/087267 |
Dec 24, 2012 |
CN |
PCT/CN2012/087301 |
Feb 1, 2013 |
EP |
13153662.5 |
Feb 1, 2013 |
EP |
13153664.1 |
Claims
1. A cosmetic composition comprising: a) from 0.01 to 9% of
film-forming polymer having a contact angle of at least 85.degree.
by weight of the composition; b) from 0.01 to 3.5% of fatty
compound by weight of the composition; and c) from 0.001 to 7% of
optical particle by weight of the composition, wherein the fatty
compound is selected from fatty acid, soap, or a mixture
thereof.
2. The composition according to claim 1 wherein the film-forming
polymer is silicone resin, preferably the silicone resin is
selected from MQ silicone resin, T silicone resin, or a mixture
thereof.
3. The composition according to claim 2 heroin wherein the silicone
resin is selected from trimethylsiloxy silicate, polypropyl
silsesquioxane, or a combination thereof, preferably the silicone
resin is mixture of trimethylsiloxy silicate and polypropyl
silsesquioxane.
4. The composition according to claim 1 wherein the amount of
film-forming polymer is from 0.3 to 7% by weight of the
composition.
5. The composition according to claim 1 wherein the fatty acid is
C.sub.12 to C.sub.24 fatty acid.
6. The composition according to claim 5 wherein the fatty acid
comprises stearic acid, lauric acid, palmitic acid, isostearic
acid, myristic acid or a mixture thereof, preferably stearic
acid.
7. The composition according to claim 1 wherein the soap is the
salt of C.sub.12 to C.sub.24 fatty acid.
8. The composition according to claim 1 wherein the weight ratio of
film-forming polymer to the fatty compound is from 10:1 to 1:2.
9. The composition according to claim 1 wherein the optical
particle comprises titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, zirconium oxide,
mica, iron oxide or a combination thereof.
10. The composition according to claim 1 wherein the composition
comprises at least 20% of water by weight of the composition.
11. A method for improving skin characteristic comprising the step
of topically applying to skin the composition of claim 1.
12. The composition of claim 1 wherein the composition further
comprises sunscreen, niacinamide, Vitamin C, Vitamin E, Vitamin E
acetate or silicone oil.
Description
FIELD OF THE INVENTION
[0001] The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition.
Particularly, the composition comprises from 0.01 to 9% of
film-forming polymer having a contact angle of at least 85.degree.
by weight of the composition, from 0.01 to 3.5% of fatty compound
by weight of the composition and optical particle, wherein the
fatty compound is selected from fatty acid, soap, or a mixture
thereof.
BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION
[0002] Usually, consumers have some skin problems including
dryness, wrinkles and fine lines, loose/saggy skin and age spots.
Composition comprising film-forming polymer may be one solution for
consumers to these problems. Film-forming polymer would form a film
onto the skin after applying topically and bring immediate firming
effect to the skin. Some beneficial agents, for example optical
particle and sunscreen agent, may also be delivered onto skin
surface together with the film-forming polymer.
[0003] There is an increasing interest to develop a skin care
composition comprising a film-forming polymer.
[0004] US patent application with publication number of US
2008/0233075 A1 disclosed a topical composition comprising a
water-soluble film-forming polymer, a bimodal copolymer comprising
a first polymeric component with anionic functional groups and a
second polymeric component with cationic functional groups, and one
or more biological polymers that are derived from a source selected
from the group consisting of animals, plants, algae, fungi, and
bacteria or are biotechnologically synthesized. Such a topical
composition was said to be applied to saggy or wrinkled skin for
enhancing the appearance of the skin.
[0005] However, after applying cosmetic composition, the skin may
undergo water washing and abrasion by hand and therefore the film
formed by film-forming polymer on the skin may be easily washed
away and/or rubbed away and therefore lose the benefits.
[0006] Meanwhile, the beneficial agent would be easily washed off
and/or rubbed off and thus can not provide a long-lasting
benefit.
[0007] Therefore, the present inventors have recognized a need to
develop a cosmetic composition with improved wash-off resistance,
abrasion resistance, and/or long-lasting deposition of beneficial
agent. Therefore, this invention is directed to a cosmetic
composition comprising from 0.01 to 9% of film-forming polymer
having a contact angle of at least 85.degree. by weight of the
composition, from 0.01 to 3.5% of fatty compound by weight of the
composition and optical particle, wherein the fatty compound is
selected from fatty acid, soap, or a mixture thereof.
SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION
[0008] In a first aspect, the present invention is directed to a
cosmetic composition comprising from 0.01 to 9% of film-forming
polymer having a contact angle of at least 85.degree. by weight of
the composition, from 0.01 to 3.5% of fatty compound by weight of
the composition and optical particle, wherein the fatty compound is
selected from fatty acid, soap, or a mixture thereof.
[0009] In a second aspect, the present invention is directed to a
method for improving skin characteristic comprising the step of
topically applying to skin any embodiment of the first aspect.
[0010] In a third aspect, the present invention is directed to use
of any embodiment of the first aspect for improving any attribute
selected from opacity, long-lasting opacity, cumulative deposition
of optical particle, wash-off resistance, abrasion resistance, or
combination thereof.
[0011] All other aspects of the present invention will more readily
become apparent upon considering the detailed description and
examples which follow.
DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION
[0012] Except in the examples, or where otherwise explicitly
indicated, all numbers in this description indicating amounts of
material or conditions of reaction, physical properties of
materials and/or use may optionally be understood as modified by
the word "about".
[0013] All amounts are by weight of the composition, unless
otherwise specified.
[0014] It should be noted that in specifying any range of values,
any particular upper value can be associated with any particular
lower value.
[0015] For the avoidance of doubt, the word "comprising" is
intended to mean "including" but not necessarily "consisting of or
"composed of". In other words, the listed steps or options need not
be exhaustive.
[0016] The disclosure of the invention as found herein is to be
considered to cover all embodiments as found in the claims as being
multiply dependent upon each other irrespective of the fact that
claims may be found without multiple dependency or redundancy.
[0017] "Film-forming polymer" as used herein refers to polymer
which is capable of forming cohesive and continuous covering over
the hair and/or skin when applied to their surface.
[0018] "Silicone resin" as used herein refers to silicone material
which is formed by branched, and/or cage-like oligosiloxanes having
three-dimensional structure. Typically, the silicone resin is
rigid.
[0019] "Fatty compound" refers organic compound having a
straight-chain with length of at least 8 carbon atoms, preferably
at least 10 carbon atoms. More preferably, the fatty compound has a
C.sub.10 to C.sub.36 straight-chain, even more preferably a
C.sub.12 to C.sub.28 straight-chain.
[0020] "Contact angle" (CA), as used herein, means the angle at
which a water/vapor interface meets a solid surface at a
temperature of 25.degree. C. Such an angle may be measured with a
goniometer or other water droplet shape analysis systems with water
droplet of 5 .mu.l and at 25.degree. C.
[0021] "Melting point" as used herein is the temperature at which
it changes state from solid to liquid at atmospheric pressure. The
melting point of fatty compound may be measured for example by
method in standard of ISO 6321-2002.
[0022] "Optical particle" refers to particle which can impart
opacity to skin. Opacity as used herein will also include
masking/reducing blemishes, even skin tone and/or skin lightening.
"Refractive index values" referred to herein are those determined
at a temperature of 25.degree. C. and a wavelength of 589 nm unless
otherwise stated.
[0023] "Leave-on" as used with reference to compositions herein
means a composition that is applied to or rubbed on the skin, and
left thereon. "Wash-off" as used with reference to compositions
herein means a skin cleanser that is applied to or rubbed on the
skin and rinsed off substantially immediately subsequent to
application. "Skin" as used herein includes the skin on the face
(except eye lids and lips), neck, chest, abdomen, back, arms,
underarm area, hands, and legs. Preferably "skin" means skin on the
face except eye lids and lips. More preferably, "skin" means skin
on cheeks.
[0024] In some preferred embodiments, the composition is neither a
cosmetic composition comprising silicone resin, non-volatile
silicone oil, and cosmetically acceptable carrier, wherein the
non-volatile silicone oil comprises dimethiconol, aminosilicone or
a mixture thereof and the weight ratio of the silicone resin to the
non-volatile silicone oil is at least 1:4; nor a cosmetic
composition comprising a silicone resin, a steroid, and
cosmetically acceptable carrier, wherein the weight ratio of
silicone resin to steroid is at least 5:9.
[0025] The requirement for film-forming polymer of the present
invention is that the film-forming polymer is suitable for use in
cosmetic composition. For better performance of wash-off
resistance, the film-forming polymer preferably has a contact angle
of at least 90.degree., more preferably from 95.degree. to
160.degree., most preferably from 100.degree. to 120.degree..
[0026] The film-forming polymer may for example comprise silicone
resin, chitosan, or a mixture thereof. More preferably, the
film-forming polymer comprises silicone resin and most preferably
the film-forming polymer is silicone resin. The silicone resin is
typically described by the following siloxy monomeric units:
##STR00001##
[0027] The R group may be selected from saturated or unsaturated
hydrocarbon groups. Preferably, the silicone resin of the present
invention may be selected from siloxysilicate, silsesquioxane, or a
mixture thereof. More preferably, the silicone resin comprises M
unit, Q unit, T unit or combination thereof. Even more preferably,
the silicone resin comprises MQ silicone resin, T silicone resin,
or a mixture thereof.
[0028] In some embodiments, the silicone resin preferably comprises
MQ silicone resin having the formula of
[(R.sub.1).sub.3--Si--O.sub.1/2].sub.a--(Si--O.sub.4/2).sub.b,
wherein R.sub.1 is mutually identical or different, selected from
saturated hydrocarbon groups. R.sub.1 is preferably selected from
C.sub.1 to C.sub.6 alkyl, and more preferably each R.sub.1 is
methyl group. Thus, the more preferred MQ silicone resin is
trimethylsiloxysilicate. Preferably, a and b independently have
values ranging from 10 to 1000, and more preferably from 30 to
200.
[0029] In another embodiments, the silicone resin preferably
comprises T silicone resin having the formula of
[R.sub.2--Si--O.sub.3/2].sub.x, wherein R.sub.2 is selected from
saturated hydrocarbon groups. R.sub.2 is preferably selected from
C.sub.1 to C.sub.6 alkyl, more preferably selected from methyl,
ethyl, propyl, butyl, and most preferably propyl. The most
preferred T silicone resin is polypropyl silsesquioxane.
Preferably, x is less than 2000, more preferably less than 500, but
preferably greater than 10, and more preferably greater than
50.
[0030] In more preferred embodiments, the silicone resin preferably
comprises a blend of MQ silicone resin and T silicone resin, the
weight ratio of the MQ silicone resin to the T silicone resin is
preferably from 1:20 to 20:1 in order to achieve better
film-forming performance. More preferably, the weight ratio of the
MQ silicone resin to the T silicone resin is from 1:10 to 10:1,
even more preferably from 1:5 to 5:1.
[0031] Exemplary silicone resin suitable for the present invention
includes Dow Corning.TM. MQ-1640 Flake Resin, a blend of MQ and T
Propyl resins, Dow Corning.TM. MQ-1600 Solid Resin, a 100% active
MQ resin, Dow Corning.TM. 670 Fluid, Cyclopentasiloxane (and)
Polypropylsilsesquioxane supplied by Dow Corning.
[0032] Preferably, the film-forming polymer is present in the
composition in amount of from 0.05 to 8% by weight of the
composition, more preferably from 0.3 to 7%, even more preferably
from 0.8 to 5%, and most preferably from 1 to 4% by weight of the
composition.
[0033] The fatty acid typically contains fatty acid mdeties with
chain lengths of from C10 to C30. In certain preferred embodiments,
the hydrocarbon chain length of the fatty acid used is from 12 to
24, more preferably 14 to 20, even more preferably 16 to 18 carbon
atoms. Suitable fatty acid comprises pelargonic, lauric, myristic,
palmitic, isopalmitic, stearic, isostearic, oleic, linoleic,
ricinoleic, arachiolic, behenic, erucic acid or a mixture thereof.
More preferably, the fatty acid comprises stearic, lauric,
palmitic, isostearic, myristic acid, or a mixture thereof. Even
more preferably, the fatty acid is stearic acid, palmitic acid or a
mixture thereof.
[0034] Although normally saturated, suitable fatty acid may contain
unsaturated fatty acid moieties, and may contain fatty acid
moieties having a degree of substitution, such as e.g. hydroxy
fatty acids. It is preferred that the fatty acid comprises
saturated fatty acid, saturated fatty acid having a degree of
substitution, or a combination thereof. More preferably, the fatty
acid comprises saturated is selected from saturated fatty acid,
saturated fatty acid having a degree of substitution, or a
combination thereof. Even more preferably, the fatty acid is
saturated fatty acid.
[0035] Soap of the present invention is preferably a salt of a
C.sub.10-C.sub.30 fatty acid, more preferably C.sub.12-C.sub.24
fatty acid, even more preferably C.sub.14-C.sub.20 fatty acid and
most preferably C.sub.16-C.sub.18 fatty acid. Suitable soap
comprises pelargonate, laurate, myristate, palmitate, stearate,
isostearate, oleate, linoleate, ricinoleate, arachidate, behenate,
erucate salt or a mixture thereof. More preferably, the fatty acid
salt comprises stearate, laurate, palmitate, isostearate salt or a
mixture thereof. Even more preferably, the fatty acid salt is
stearate salt, palmitate salt or a mixture thereof.
[0036] Preferably the soap is selected from ammonium salt, alkali
metal salt or mixture thereof. More preferably, the soap is sodium
and/or potassium salt, and most preferably sodium salt. When the
fatty compound comprises fatty acid and soap, it is preferred the
fatty compound comprises fatty acid and salt thereof. More
preferably the fatty compound is a combination of fatty acid and
salt thereof.
[0037] The fatty compound is preferably present in the composition
in amount of from 0.01 to 3.3% by weight of the composition, more
preferably from 0.7 to 3%, even more preferably from 1.5 to 2.5% by
weight of the composition.
[0038] For better performance of wash-off resistance, and/or
long-lasting opacity, the weight ratio of film-forming polymer to
fatty compound is preferably from 50:1 to 1:10, more preferably
from 10:1 to 1:2, even more preferably from 5:1 to 1:1, and most
preferably from 4:1 to 2:1.
[0039] The cosmetic composition also comprises optical particle.
Without being bound to any particular theory or explanation, the
present inventors believe that optical particles would be embedded
into the film by film-forming polymer and fatty compound.
Therefore, the optical particles are able to resist water and/or
friction and deliver the long-lasting opacity to the skin.
[0040] The optical particles are typically particles of high
refractive index materials. For example the optical particles may
have a refractive index of greater than 1.3, more preferably
greater than 1.7 and most preferably from 2.0 to 2.7. Examples of
such optical particles are those comprising bismuth oxy-chloride,
boron nitride, barium sulfate, mica, silica, titanium dioxide,
zirconium oxide, iron oxide, aluminium oxide, zinc oxide or
combinations thereof. More preferred particles are particles
comprising titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, zirconium oxide, mica,
iron oxide or a combination thereof. Even more preferred particles
are particles comprising zinc oxide, zirconium oxide, titanium
dioxide or a combination thereof as these materials have especially
high refractive index. Most preferred is titanium dioxide.
[0041] For sake of good compatibility with the film-forming polymer
and/or fatty compound, the optical particle is preferably
hydrophobic. More preferably, the optical particle is preferably
hydrophobically modified. Even more preferably the optical particle
is modified by hydrophobic material selected from fatty acid,
silicone oil, wax, and a mixture thereof. The fatty acid preferably
comprises oleic acid, stearic acid, or a mixture thereof.
[0042] The size of optical particle is typical from 2 nm to 5
microns, more preferably from 5 nm to 1 micron, even more
preferably from 10 nm to 500 nm. Particle size as used herein
refers to the diameter of particles in an unaggregated state.
Diameter means the largest measureable distance on a particle in
the event a well-defined sphere is not generated. The diameter may
be measured for example by scanning electron microscopy (SEM) by
averaging the value of at least ten particles.
[0043] Preferably the composition comprises optical particles in an
amount of from 0.001 to 10 wt %, more preferably 0.01 to 7 wt %,
more preferably still 0.05 to 5 wt % and most preferably 0.1 to 2
wt %. The weight ratio of the film-forming polymer to the optical
particle is preferably in the range of from 1:10 to 50:1, more
preferably from 1:3 to 10:1, and most preferably from 1:1 to 5:1.
The weight ratio of the fatty compound to the optical particle is
preferably in the range of from 1:40 to 20:1, more preferably from
1:20 to 10:1, and most preferably from 1:10 to 5:1.
[0044] Compositions of the present invention may also include at
least 20% of water by weight of the composition. Preferably, the
amounts of water is at least 40%, more preferably range from more
preferably from 50 to 90%, optimally between 60 and 85% by weight
of the composition. Preferably the weight ratio of water to wax is
from 1:1 to 1000:1, more preferably from 5:1 to 200:1, and most
preferably from 15:1 to 60:1.
[0045] Emollient materials may be included as carriers in
compositions of this invention. These may be in the form of
silicone oils, synthetic esters and/or hydrocarbons. Amounts of the
emollients may range, for example, anywhere from 0.1 to 95%, more
preferably between 1 and 50% by weight of the composition.
[0046] Silicone oils may be divided into the volatile and
nonvolatile variety. The term "volatile" as used herein refers to
those materials which have a measurable vapor pressure at ambient
temperature (25.degree. C.). Volatile silicone oils are preferably
chosen from cyclic (cyclomethicone) or linear polydimethylsiloxanes
containing from 3 to 9, preferably from 4 to 5, silicon atoms. In
many liquid versions of compositions according to the present
invention, the volatile silicone oils may form a relatively large
component of the compositions as carriers. Amounts may range, for
example, from 5% to 80%, more preferably from 20% to 70% by weight
of the composition.
[0047] Nonvolatile silicone oils useful as an emollient material
include polyalkyl siloxanes, polyalkylaryl siloxanes and polyether
siloxane copolymers. The essentially nonvolatile polyalkyl
siloxanes useful herein include, for example, polydimethyl
siloxanes with viscosities of from about 5.times.10.sup.-8 to 0.1
m.sup.2/s at 25.degree. C. Among the preferred nonvolatile
emollients useful in the present compositions are the polydimethyl
siloxanes having viscosities from about 1.times.10.sup.-5 to about
4.times.10.sup.-4 m.sup.2/s at 25.degree. C.
[0048] Organopolysiloxane crosspolymers can be usefully employed.
Representative of these materials are dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone
crosspolymers and dimethicone crosspolymers available from a
variety of suppliers including Dow Corning (9040, 9041, 9045, 9506
and 9509), General Electric (SFE 839), Shin Etsu (KSG-15, 16 and 18
[dimethicone/phenyl vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer]), and Grant
Industries (Gransil brand of materials), and lauryl
dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone crosspolymers supplied by Shin Etsu
(e.g. KSG-31, KSG-32, KSG-41, KSG-42, KSG-43 and KSG-44). Amounts
of the aforementioned organopolysiloxane crosspolymers (when
present) will usually be from 0.1 to 20% by weight dissdved usually
in a volatile silicone oil such as cyclomethicone.
[0049] When silicones are present in large amounts as carrier and
water is also present, the systems may be oil continuous. These
normally will require emulsification with a water-in-oil emulsifier
such as a dimethicone copolyol (e.g. Abil EM-90 which is cetyl
dimethicone copolyol).
[0050] Among the ester emollients are: [0051] a) Alkenyl or alkyl
esters of fatty acids having 10 to 20 carbon atoms. Examples
thereof include isoarachidyl neopentanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate,
isopropyl myristate, isononyl isonanoate, cetyl ricinoleate, oleyl
myristate, oleyl stearate, and oleyl oleate. [0052] b) Ether-esters
such as fatty acid esters of ethoxylated fatty alcohols. [0053] c)
Polyhydric alcohol esters. Butylene glycol, ethylene glycol mono
and di-fatty acid esters, diethylene glycol mono- and di-fatty acid
esters, polyethylene glycol (200-6000) mono- and di-fatty acid
esters, propylene glycol mono- and di-fatty acid esters,
polypropylene glycol 2000 monooleate, polypropylene glycol 2000
monostearate, ethoxylated propylene glycol monostearate, glyceryl
mono- and di-fatty acid esters, polyglycerol poly-fatty esters,
ethoxylated glyceryl mono-stearate, 1,3-butylene glycol
monostearate, 1,3-butylene glycol distearate, polyoxyethylene
polyol fatty acid ester, sorbitan fatty acid esters, and
polyoxyethylene sorbitan fatty acid esters are satisfactory
polyhydric alcohol esters. Particularly useful are pentaerythritol,
trimethylolpropane and neopentyl glycol esters of C.sub.1-C.sub.30
alcohols. Exemplative is pentaerythrityl tetraethylhexanoate.
[0054] d) Wax esters such as beeswax, spermaceti wax and tribehenin
wax. [0055] e) Sterols esters, of which cholesterol fatty acid
esters are examples thereof. [0056] f) Sugar ester of fatty acids
such as sucrose polybehenate and sucrose polycottonseedate.
[0057] Of particular use also are the C.sub.12-15 alkyl benzoate
esters sold under the Finsolv brand.
[0058] Hydrocarbons which are suitable cosmetically acceptable
carriers include petrolatum, mineral oil, C.sub.11-C.sub.13
isoparaffins, polyalphaolefins, and especially isohexadecane,
available commercially as Permethyl 101A from Presperse Inc.
[0059] Humectants of the polyhydric alcohol-type can be employed as
cosmetically acceptable carriers. Typical polyhydric alcohols
include polyalkylene glycols and more preferably alkylene polyols
and their derivatives, including propylene glycol, dipropylene
glycol, polypropylene glycol, polyethylene glycol and derivatives
thereof, sorbitol, hydroxypropyl sorbitol, hexylene glycol,
1,3-butylene glycol, isoprene glycol, 1,2,6-hexanetriol, glycerol,
ethoxylated glycerol, propoxylated glycerol and mixtures thereof.
The amount of humectant may range, for example, anywhere from 0.5
to 50%, more preferably between 1 and 15% by weight of the
composition. Most preferred is glycerol (also known as glycerin).
Amounts of glycerin may range, for example, from 1% to 50%, more
preferably from 10 to 35%, optimally from 15 to 30% by weight of
the composition.
[0060] Besides optical particles, the compositions of this
invention may include a variety of other functional ingredients.
Sunscreen actives may be included in compositions of the present
invention. These will be organic compounds having at least one
chromophoric group absorbing within the ultraviolet ranging from
290 to 400 nm. Chromophoric organic sunscreen agents may be divided
into the following categories (with specific examples) including:
p-Aminobenzoic acid, its salts and its derivatives (ethyl,
isobutyl, glyceryl esters; p-dimethylaminobenzoic acid);
Anthranilates (o-aminobenzoates; methyl, menthyl, phenyl, benzyl,
phenylethyl, linalyl, terpinyl, and cyclohexenyl esters);
Salicylates (octyl, amyl, phenyl, benzyl, menthyl, glyceryl, and
dipropyleneglycol esters); Cinnamic acid derivatives (menthyl and
benzyl esters, alpha-phenyl cinnamonitrile; butyl cinnamoyl
pyruvate); Dihydroxycinnamic acid derivatives (umbelliferone,
methylumbelliferone, methylaceto-umbelliferone); Trihydroxycinnamic
acid derivatives (esculetin, methylesculetin, daphnetin, and the
glucosides, esculin and daphnin); Hydrocarbons (diphenylbutadiene,
stilbene); Dibenzalacetone and benzalacetophenone;
Naphtholsulfonates (sodium salts of 2-naphthol-3,6-disulfonic and
of 2-naphthol-6,8-disulfonic acids); Dihydroxy-naphthoic acid and
its salts; o- and p-Hydroxybiphenyldisulfonates; Coumarin
derivatives (7-hydroxy, 7-methyl, 3-phenyl); Diazoles
(2-acetyl-3-bromoindazole, phenyl benzoxazole, methyl
naphthoxazole, various aryl benzodiazoles); Quinine salts
(bisulfate, sulfate, chloride, oleate, and tannate); Quinoline
derivatives (8-hydroxyquinoline salts, 2-phenylquinoline); Hydroxy-
or methoxy-substituted benzophenones; Uric and vilouric acids;
Tannic acid and its derivatives (e.g., hexaethylether); (Butyl
carbityl) (6-propyl piperonyl) ether; Hydroquinone; Benzophenones
(Oxybenzone, Sulisobenzone, Dioxybenzone, Benzoresorcinol,
2,2',4,4'-Tetrahydroxybenzophenone,
2,2'-Dihydroxy-4,4'-dimethoxybenzophenone, Octabenzone;
4-Isopropyldibenzoylmethane; Butylmethoxydibenzoylmethane;
Etocrylene; and 4-isopropyl-dibenzoylmethane). Particularly useful
are: 2-ethylhexyl p-methoxycinnamate, 4,4'-t-butyl
methoxydibenzoylmethane, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone,
octyldimethyl p-aminobenzoic acid, oligalloyltrioleate,
2,2-dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, ethyl
4-[bis(hydroxypropyl)]aminobenzoate,
2-ethylhexyl-2-cyano-3,3-diphenylacrylate, 2-ethylhexylsalicylate,
glyceryl p-aminobenzoate, 3,3,5-trimethylcyclohexylsalicylate,
methylanthranilate, p-dimethylaminobenzoic acid or aminobenzoate,
2-ethylhexyl p-dimethylaminobenzoate,
2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid,
2-(p-dimethylaminophenyl)-5-sulfoniobenzoxazoic acid and mixtures
thereof.
[0061] Particularly preferred are such materials as ethylhexyl
p-methoxycinnamate, available as Parsol MCX.RTM., Avobenzone,
available as Parsol 1789.RTM., Dermablock OS.RTM. (octylsalicylate)
and Mexoryl SX.RTM. (with INCI name of Terephthalylidene Dicamphor
Sulfonic Acid).
[0062] Amounts of the organic sunscreen agent may range, for
example, from 0.1 to 15%, more preferably from 0.5% to 10%,
optimally from 1% to 8% by weight of the composition.
[0063] A variety of thickening agents may be included in the
compositions. Illustrative but not limiting are stearic acid,
Acrylamide/Sodium Acryloyldimethyltaurate Copolymer (Aristoflex
AVC), Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyltaurate
Copolymer, Aluminum Starch Octenyl Succinate, Polyacrylates (such
as Carbomers including Carbopol.RTM. 980, Carbopol.RTM. 1342,
Pemulen TR-2.RTM. and the Ultrez.RTM. thickeners), Polysaccharides
(including xanthan gum, guar gum, pectin, carageenan and sclerotium
gums), celluloses (including carboxymethyl cellulose, ethyl
cellulose, hydroxyethyl cellulose and methyl hydroxymethyl
cellulose), minerals (including talc, silica, alumina, mica and
clays, the latter being represented by bentonites, hectorites and
attapulgites), magnesium aluminum silicate and mixtures thereof.
Amounts of the thickeners may range, for example, from 0.05 to 10%,
more preferably from 0.3 to 2% by weight of the composition.
[0064] Preservatives can desirably be incorporated into the
cosmetic compositions of this invention to protect against the
growth of potentially harmful microorganisms. Suitable traditional
preservatives for compositions of this invention are alkyl esters
of para-hydroxybenzoic acid. Other preservatives which have more
recently come into use include hydantoin derivatives, propionate
salts, and a variety of quaternary ammonium compounds. Cosmetic
chemists are familiar with appropriate preservatives and routinely
choose them to satisfy the preservative challenge test and to
provide product stability. Particularly preferred preservatives are
phenoxyethanol, methyl paraben, propyl paraben, butyl paraben,
isobutyl paraben, imidazolidinyl urea, sodium dehydroacetate and
benzyl alcohol. The preservatives should be selected having regard
for the use of the composition and possible incompatibilities
between the preservatives and other ingredients in the composition.
Preservatives are preferably employed in amounts ranging from 0.01%
to 2% by weight of the composition.
[0065] Compositions of the present invention may also contain
vitamins and flavondds. Illustrative water-soluble vitamins are
Niacinamide, Vitamin B.sub.2, Vitamin B.sub.6, Vitamin C, ascorbyl
phosphate and Biotin. Among the useful water-insoluble vitamins are
Vitamin A (retinol), Vitamin A Palmitate, ascorbyl
tetraisopalmitate, Vitamin E (tocopherol), Vitamin E Acetate and
L-panthenol. A particularly suitable Vitamin B.sub.6 derivative is
Pyridoxine Palmitate. Among the preferred flavonoids are glucosyl
hesperidin and rutin. Total amount of vitamins or flavonoids when
present in compositions according to the present invention may
range, for example, from 0.001 to 10%, more preferably from 0.01%
to 5%, optimally from 0.1 to 3% by weight of the composition.
[0066] Desquamation agents are further optional components.
Illustrative are the alpha-hydroxycarboxylic acids and
beta-hydroxycarboxylic acids and salts of these acids. Among the
former are salts of glycolic acid, lactic acid and malic acid.
Salicylic acid is representative of the beta-hydroxycarboxylic
acids. Amounts of these materials when present may range from 0.1
to 15% by weight of the composition.
[0067] A variety of herbal extracts may optionally be included in
compositions of this invention. Illustrative are pomegranate, white
birch (Betula Alba), green tea, chamomile, licorice, boswellia
serrata, olive (Olea Europaea) leaf, arnica montana flower,
lavandula angustifolia, and extract combinations thereof. The
extracts may either be water soluble or water-insoluble carried in
a solvent which respectively is hydrophilic or hydrophobic. Water
and ethanol are the preferred extract solvents.
[0068] Miscellaneous other adjunct cosmetic ingredients that may be
suitable for the present compositions include ceramides (e.g.
Ceramide 3 and Ceramide 6), conjugated linoleic acids, colorants
(e.g. iron oxides), metal (manganese, copper and/or zinc)
gluconates, allantoin, palmitoyl pentapeptide-3, amino acids (e.g.
alanine, arginine, glycine, lysine, proline, serine, threonine,
glumatic acid and mixtures thereof), trimethylglycine, sodium PCA,
chelator like disodium EDTA, magnesium aspartate, and combinations
thereof. Amounts may, for example, vary from 0.000001 to 3% by
weight of the composition.
[0069] A small amount of emulsifying surfactant may be present.
Surfactants may be anionic, nonionic, cationic, amphoteric and
mixtures thereof. Levels may range, for example, from 0.1 to 5%,
more preferably from 0.1 to 2%, optimally from 0.1 to 1% by weight.
Advantageously the amount of surfactant present should not be
sufficient for lather formation. In these instances, less than 2%
by weight, preferably less than 1%, and optimally less than 0.5% by
weight surfactant is present. Emulsifiers like PEG-100 stearate may
be used as well as emulsion stabilizers like cetearyl alcohol and
ceteareth-20 may be used and typically in amounts that do not
exceed 5 percent by weight of the composition.
[0070] Other optional additives suitable for use in the composition
of this invention include cationic ammonium compounds to enhance
moisturization. Such compounds include salts of hydroxypropyltri
(C.sub.1-C.sub.3 alkyl) ammonium mono-substituted-saccharide, salts
of hydroxypropyltri (C.sub.1-C.sub.3 alkyl) ammonium
mono-substituted polyols, dihydroxypropyltri (C.sub.1-C.sub.3
alkyl) ammonium salts, dihydroxypropyldi (C.sub.1-C.sub.3 alkyl)
mono(hydroxyethyl) ammonium salts, guar hydroxypropyl trimonium
salts, 2,3-dihydroxypropyl tri(C.sub.1-C3 alkyl or hydroxalkyl)
ammonium salts or mixtures thereof. In a most preferred embodiment
and when desired, the cationic ammonium compound employed in this
invention is the quaternary ammonium compound
1,2-dihydroxypropyltrimonium chloride. If used, such compounds
typically make up from 0.01 to 30%, and more preferably from about
0.1 to about 15% by weight of the composition.
[0071] When cationic ammonium compounds are used, optional
additives for use with the same are moisturizing agents such as
substituted ureas like hydroxymethyl urea, hydroxyethyl urea,
hydroxypropyl urea; bis(hydroxymethyl)urea; bis(hydroxyethyl)urea;
bis(hydroxypropyl)urea; N,N'-dihydroxymethyl urea;
N,N'-di-hydroxyethyl urea; N,N'-di-hydroxypropyl urea;
N,N,N'-tri-hydroxyethyl urea; tetra(hydroxymethyl)urea;
tetra(hydroxyethyl)urea; tetra(hydroxypropyl)urea;
N-methyl-N'-hydroxyethyl urea; N-ethyl-N'-hydroxyethyl urea;
N-hydroxypropyl-N'-hydroxyethyl urea and
N,N'dimethyl-N-hydroxyethyl urea or mixtures thereof. Where the
term hydroxypropyl appears, the meaning is generic for either
3-hydroxy-n-propyl, 2-hydroxy-n-propyl, 3-hydroxy-i-propyl or
2-hydroxy-i-propyl radicals. Most preferred is hydroxyethyl urea.
The latter is available as a 50% aqueous liquid from AkzoNobel
under the trademark Hydrovance. Such substituted ureas, while
desirable in moisturizing formulations, are only selected for use
when compatible with sunless tanning agent or agents (when used) in
the compositions of this invention.
[0072] Amounts of substituted urea, when used, in the composition
of this invention range from 0.01 to 20%, more preferably from 0.5
to 15%, and most preferably from 2 to 10% based on total weight of
the composition and including all ranges subsumed therein.
[0073] When cationic ammonium compound and substituted urea are
used, in a most especially preferred embodiment at least from 0.01
to 25%, more preferably from 0.2 to 20%, and most preferably from 1
to 15% humectant, like glycerine, is used, based on total weight of
the composition and including all ranges subsumed therein.
[0074] When making the compositions of this invention, ingredients
are typically mixed with moderate shear under atmospheric
conditions. The compositions may be applied topically and
preferably 1-4 milligrams of composition is applied per square
centimeter of skin. Preferably, the compositions display a pH from
5 to 7. Packaging for the composition of this invention can be a
jar or tube as well as any other format typically seen for
cosmetic, cream, washing and lotion type products.
[0075] It is preferred that the composition is a skin care
composition. The composition may be a leave-on composition or a
wash-off composition, but preferably a leave-on composition.
[0076] The invention also concerns a method for improving skin
characteristic comprising the step of topically applying to skin
the cosmetic composition of the invention as described. Skin
characteristic as used herein refers to features used to evaluate
skin, include but not limit to skin firming, opacity, smoothness,
cleanliness, moistening, or a combination thereof. Preferably, the
skin characteristics comprise skin firming, opacity, or a
combination thereof. More preferably the skin characteristic is
long-lasting opacity and most preferably, the skin characteristic
is long-lasting whitening. "Long-lasting" refers to the beneficial
agent (for example optical particle) remains at least 30%,
preferably at least 50% after flushing by tap water (25.degree. C.)
for 1 minute.
[0077] The following examples are provided to facilitate an
understanding of the invention. The examples are not intended to
limit the scope of the claims.
EXAMPLES
[0078] Wash-Off/Abrasion Resistance Test
[0079] 1. Constructing a Calibration Curve
[0080] The base formulation (sample A in Table 1) was coated evenly
onto Bio-skin plate (Color: 30#, ex. BEAULAX, Co. Ltd., Tokyo,
Japan) with surface density of 0, 0.5, 1, 1.5, 2, 2.5, 3, 3.5, 4,
5, and 6 mg/cm.sup.2. After naturally drying at around 25.degree.
C. for 8 hours, the L (for lightness), a, and b (for the
color-opponent dimensions) of these coated Bio-skin plates was
measured using Digieye Imaging System (Verivide, UK). The ITA value
was calculated by equation of ITA=[arctan(L-50/b)].times.180/.pi..
Then the ITA value versus surface density was plotted and fitted by
a polynomial model to obtain the curve. The R-Square was higher
than 0.999 which demonstrated that the polynomial model was
suitable to fit the functional relationship between the lightness
and the surface density of the base formulation.
[0081] 2. Wash-Off/Abrasion Experiment
[0082] 30 mg of samples was coated evenly onto Bio-skin plates with
area of 10 cm.sup.2. The coated bio-skin was naturally dried at
around 25.degree. C. for 8 hours. The L, a, and b of the Bio-skin
plate were measured by Digieye Imaging System (Verivide, UK). The
ITA value (ITA.sub.1) was calculated according to the above
equation. The surface density value before wash-off/abrasion
experiment (SD.sub.1) was obtained according to the calibration
curve. The coated bio-skin was soaked into de-ionized water for 30
s. Then, a commercial face cleanser (Pond's gold radiance.TM.
Radiance Boosting Cleansing Mousse) with amount of 5 mg/cm.sup.2
was applied onto the Bio-skin plate and the coated Bio-skin plate
was washed by Martindale abrasion and pilling tester (Type: M235,
SDL Altas, USA) with 33.72g of motion plate at the speed of 30 rpm
for 1 min. Subsequently, the coated Bio-skin plate was soaked into
water for another 1 min and washed by de-ionized water. After
naturally drying at around 25.degree. C. for 2 hours, the L, a, and
b of the Bio-skin plate were measured again by Digieye Imaging
System and the ITA value of the Bio-skin plate (ITA.sub.2) was
calculated. The surface density after wash-off/abrasion experiment
(SD.sub.2) was obtained according to the calibration curve.
[0083] The deposition ratio after wash-off/abrasion experiment was
calculated by:
Deposition ratio=(SD.sub.2/SD.sub.1).times.100%.
[0084] Measurement of Contact Angle and Water Soaking Test
[0085] The contact angles of five film-forming polymers including
Dow Corning.TM. MQ-1640 Flake Resin, Dow Corning.TM. MQ-1600 Solid
Resin, Dow Corning.TM. 670 Fluid from Dow Corning, Avalure.TM.
UR450 from Lubrizol, Lexorez.TM. 100 from Index were conducted. Dow
Corning.TM. MQ-1600 Solid Resin and Dow Corning.TM. 670 Fluid were
dispersed into dimethicone with a polymer to solvent weight ratio
of 1:9. The other three polymers were dispersed into ethanol with a
polymer to solvent weight ratio of 1:9.
[0086] 0.2 ml of film-forming polymer dispersions were dripped
evenly onto an ordinary glass sides (about 2 cm.times.8 cm). After
the solvents evaporated, uniform films were formed. Drop shape
analysis system 100 (DSA 100, Kruss) was used to measure contact
angle using deionised water drops of around 5 .mu.L applied to five
different points of each film. The contact angle averaged over all
5 drops.
[0087] The contact angles of Dow Corning.TM. MQ-1640 Flake Resin,
Dow Corning.TM. MQ-1600 Solid Resin, Dow Corning.TM. 670,
Avalure.TM. UR450, and Lexorez.TM. 100 were 107.degree.,
116.degree., 114.degree., 66.degree., and 28.degree.
respectively.
[0088] Then, these glass slides coated with polymer films were
immersed fully into water for 30 minutes. After that the glass
slides were taken out from water and dried. The contact angles of
these glass slides were measured again. It was surprisingly found
that the contact angles of glass slides coated by Avalure.TM.
UR450, and Lexorez.TM. 100 were decreased to less than 15.degree.,
indicating that the polymer film has been peeled off. In contrast,
the contact angle of glass slides coated by Dow Corning.TM. MQ-1640
Flake Resin, Dow Corning.TM. MQ-1600 Solid Resin, and Dow
Corning.TM. 670 remained almost the same, manifesting that the
polymer films were adhered onto the glass slides firmly.
Example 1
[0089] This example demonstrates the inclusion of fatty acid in
different amount into the compositions with different film-forming
polymers improved the wash-off resistance of the compositions.
[0090] A series of cosmetic compositions were formulated as shown
in Table 1 below.
[0091] The formulations were prepared by the following process. The
optical particles were completely dispersed in the oil phase with
other ingredients and the silicone resin and/or fatty compound
(when present) mixed thoroughly. The resulting oil-based mixture
was gradually added to the aqueous phase. The resulting mixture was
emulsified under 9,000 rpm of shear stress for 10 minutes at
65.degree. C. and gradually stirred and cooled to room
temperature.
[0092] The deposition ratios of the samples were measured by
following the Wash-off/abrasion resistance performance test.
TABLE-US-00001 TABLE 1 Ingredient Samples (wt %) A B C 1 2 3 4 5
Water Bal. Bal. Bal. Bal. Bal. Bal. Bal. Bal. Disodium 0.10 0.10
0.10 0.10 0.10 0.10 0.10 0.10 EDTA PEG-100 1.85 1.85 1.85 1.85 1.85
1.85 1.85 1.85 Stearate (Myij 59 P) Glyceryl 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00
1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 stearate Caprylic/Capric 3.00 3.00 3.00 3.00
3.00 3.00 3.00 3.00 Triglycerides Aristoflex 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00
1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 AVC UL Cyclomethi- 8.00 8.00 8.00 8.00 8.00
8.00 8.00 8.00 cone/DC 245 Preservative 0.20 0.20 0.20 0.20 0.20
0.20 0.20 0.20 Titanium 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00
dioxide .sup.a Silicone -- 3.00 -- 3.00 3.00 3.00 3.00 -- resin-1
.sup.b Silicone -- -- 3.00 -- -- -- -- 3.00 resin-2 .sup.c Stearic
acid.sup.d -- -- -- 0.50 1.00 2.00 3.00 1.00 .sup.a MT700Z,
Titanium Dioxide (and) Stearic Acid (and) Aluminium Hydroxide
supplied by TAYCA .sup.b Dow Corning .TM. MQ-1640 Flake Resin, a
blend of MQ and T Propyl resins, supplied by Dow Corning. .sup.c
Dow Corning .TM. MQ-1600 Solid Resin, a 100% active MQ resin,
supplied by Dow Corning. .sup.dSupplied by Emery Oleochemicals (M)
Sdn. Bhd.
[0093] As can be seen in Table 2, with the addition of fatty acid
into the composition with different silicone resins, the deposition
ratios after wash-off test for all compositions (samples 1 to 5)
were increased. It was found that the inclusion of fatty acid of
the present invention unexpectedly improved the wash-off
resistance, rub resistance, and the long-lasting deposition of
optical particles.
[0094] It was also surprisingly found that even lower levels of
fatty acid (sample 1 and 2) can induce similar deposition ratio as
higher levels of fatty acid (sample 3). It was also found that the
fatty acid can improve the deposition ratio of composition
containing silicone-1 more than that of the composition containing
silicone-2.
TABLE-US-00002 TABLE 2 Silicone Silicone Stearic Deposition resin-1
resin-2 acid Ratio Sample (wt %) (wt %) (wt %) (%) B 3.00 0 0 61.5
.+-. 3.1 C 0 3.00 0 30.1 .+-. 2.6 1 3.00 0 0.50 69.3 .+-. 1.6 2
3.00 0 1.00 73.8 .+-. 2.1 3 3.00 0 2.00 85.6 .+-. 6.3 4 3.00 0 3.00
72.5 .+-. 2.3 5 0 3.00 1.00 35.5 .+-. 2.0
Example 2
[0095] This example demonstrates the inclusion of different fatty
acids into the compositions with film-forming polymer improved the
wash-off resistance of the compositions.
[0096] The formulations in Table 3 were prepared and the deposition
ratios were tested by the following similar procedures as described
in Example 1.
TABLE-US-00003 TABLE 3 Samples Ingredient (wt %) 6 7 8 9 10 Water
Bal. Bal. Bal. Bal. Bal. Disodium EDTA 0.10 0.10 0.10 0.10 0.10
PEG-100 Stearate 1.85 1.85 1.85 1.85 1.85 (Myij 59 P) Glyceryl
stearate 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 Caprylic/Capric 3.00 3.00 3.00
3.00 3.00 Triglycerides Aristoflex AVC UL 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00
Cyclomethicone/DC 245 8.00 8.00 8.00 8.00 8.00 Preservative 0.20
0.20 0.20 0.20 0.20 Titanium dioxide .sup.a 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00
1.00 Silicone resin-1 .sup.b 3.00 3.00 3.00 3.00 3.00 Lauric
acid.sup.c 1.00 -- -- -- -- Myristic acid.sup.c -- 1.00 -- -- --
Palmitic acid.sup.c -- -- 1.00 -- -- Oleic acid.sup.c -- -- -- 1.00
-- 12-hydroxy stearic acid.sup.d -- -- -- -- 1.00 Deposition Ratio
(%) 71.6 .+-. 72.1 .+-. 72.6 .+-. 71.6 .+-. 68.3 .+-. 2.5 3.3 2.9
1.9 3.0 .sup.a MT700Z, Titanium Dioxide (and) Stearic Acid (and)
Aluminium Hydroxide supplied by TAYCA .sup.b Dow Corning .TM.
MQ-1640 Flake Resin, a blend of MQ and T Propyl resins, supplied by
Dow Corning. .sup.cSupplied by Emery Oleochemicals (M) Sdn. Bhd.
.sup.dSupplied by Vertellus Performance Materials Inc.
[0097] As shown in the last row of Table 3, the deposition ratios
of composition containing both film-forming polymer and different
fatty acids had been increased over composition merely containing
film-forming polymer. It was manifested that the incorporation of
different fatty acids improved wash-off resistance and therefore
long-lasting whitening. It was also surprisingly found that the
fatty acid without substitution improved wash-off resistance more
than the fatty acid with a degree of substitution.
* * * * *