U.S. patent application number 14/409023 was filed with the patent office on 2015-11-12 for matt-effect composition comprising hydrophobic aerogel particles and silicone elastomer particles.
The applicant listed for this patent is L'OREAL. Invention is credited to Eric Lheureux, Patricia Pierre.
Application Number | 20150320648 14/409023 |
Document ID | / |
Family ID | 47172770 |
Filed Date | 2015-11-12 |
United States Patent
Application |
20150320648 |
Kind Code |
A1 |
Pierre; Patricia ; et
al. |
November 12, 2015 |
MATT-EFFECT COMPOSITION COMPRISING HYDROPHOBIC AEROGEL PARTICLES
AND SILICONE ELASTOMER PARTICLES
Abstract
The present invention relates to a cosmetic and/or
dermatological composition comprising, in a physiologically
acceptable medium: a) at least some hydrophobic aerogel particles,
b) at least some silicone elastomer particles, c) at least one
particle that absorbs sebum. The invention also relates to a
process for making the skin matt and/or for reducing its shine.
Inventors: |
Pierre; Patricia; (Antony,
FR) ; Lheureux; Eric; (Montgeron, FR) |
|
Applicant: |
Name |
City |
State |
Country |
Type |
L'OREAL |
Paris |
|
FR |
|
|
Family ID: |
47172770 |
Appl. No.: |
14/409023 |
Filed: |
June 21, 2013 |
PCT Filed: |
June 21, 2013 |
PCT NO: |
PCT/EP2013/063083 |
371 Date: |
December 18, 2014 |
Current U.S.
Class: |
424/401 ;
514/769; 514/770; 514/772.3; 514/772.4 |
Current CPC
Class: |
A61K 8/0245 20130101;
A61K 2800/60 20130101; A61Q 19/00 20130101; A61K 2800/592 20130101;
A61K 2800/412 20130101; A61Q 19/008 20130101; A61K 8/585 20130101;
A61K 8/8152 20130101; A61K 8/25 20130101; A61K 8/895 20130101; A61K
8/0241 20130101; A61K 8/0279 20130101 |
International
Class: |
A61K 8/02 20060101
A61K008/02; A61Q 19/00 20060101 A61Q019/00; A61K 8/25 20060101
A61K008/25; A61K 8/58 20060101 A61K008/58; A61K 8/895 20060101
A61K008/895 |
Foreign Application Data
Date |
Code |
Application Number |
Jun 21, 2012 |
FR |
1255839 |
Claims
1. Cosmetic and/or dermatological composition comprising, in a
physiologically acceptable medium: a) at least some hydrophobic
aerogel particles b) at least some silicone elastomer particles
different than the particles c), and c) at least some particles
that absorbs sebum different than the particles a) and b), the said
composition comprising at least one aqueous phase.
2. Composition according to claim 1, in which the hydrophobic
aerogel particles have a specific surface area per unit of mass
ranging from 200 to 1500 m.sup.2/g.
3. Composition according to claim 1, in which the hydrophobic
aerogel particles have a specific surface area per unit of mass
ranging from 600 to 1200 m.sup.2/g.
4. Composition according to claim 1, in which the hydrophobic
aerogel particles have a size, expressed as the volume-mean
diameter, ranging from 5 to 25 .mu.m.
5. Composition according to claim 1, in which the hydrophobic
aerogel particles have a tapped density ranging from 0.02
g/cm.sup.3 to 0.10 g/cm.sup.3.
6. Composition according to claim 1, in which the hydrophobic
aerogel particles have a specific surface area per unit of volume
ranging from 5 to 60 m.sup.2/cm.sup.3.
7. Composition according to claim 1, in which the hydrophobic
aerogel particles have an oil-absorbing capacity, measured at the
wet point, ranging from 5 to 18 ml/g.
8. Composition according to claim 1, in which the hydrophobic
aerogel particles are organic, inorganic or organic-inorganic
hybrid particles.
9. Composition according to claim 1, in which the hydrophobic
aerogel particles are hydrophobic silica aerogel particles,
preferably silylated silica aerogel particles and more particularly
trimethyl silica aerogel particles.
10. Composition according to claim 1, wherein the hydrophobic
aerogel particles represent from 0.1% to 30% by weight relative to
the total weight of the composition.
11. Composition according to claim 1, wherein the silicone
elastomer particles are obtained by polymerization of
organopolysiloxane having at least two hydrogen atoms each bound to
a silicon atom and of an organopolysiloxane comprising at least two
ethylenically unsaturated groups (especially two vinyl groups) in
the presence of a platinum catalyst.
12. Composition according to claim 1, wherein the silicone
elastomer particles represent from 0.01% to 30% by weight relative
to the total weight of the composition.
13. Composition according to claim 1, wherein the sebum-absorbing
particles are chosen from: polyamide (Nylon.RTM.) powders, powders
of acrylic polymers, talc, boron nitride, clays, a mixture
thereof.
14. Composition according to claim 1, wherein the sebum-absorbing
particle is present in a content ranging from 0.01% to 30% by
weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
15. Composition according to claim 1, wherein it also comprises at
least one active agent for caring for oily skin chosen from
desquamating agents, antimicrobial agents, anti-inflammatory
agents, sebum regulators and antioxidants.
16. Cosmetic process for caring for and/or making up the skin,
comprising the topical application to the skin of the composition
according to claim 1.
17. Process according to claim 16, wherein it is a process for
making the skin matt and/or for reducing its shine.
18. Cosmetic use of the composition according to claim 1, for
caring for combination skin and/or oily skin.
19. Composition according to claim 2, in which the hydrophobic
aerogel particles have a specific surface area per unit of mass
ranging from 600 to 1200 m.sup.2/g.
20. Composition according to claim 2, in which the hydrophobic
aerogel particles have a size, expressed as the volume-mean
diameter, ranging from 5 to 25 .mu.m.
Description
[0001] The present invention relates to the field of caring for
and/or making up keratin materials, and in particular the skin.
[0002] The invention relates to a cosmetic and/or dermatological
composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at
least some hydrophobic aerogel particles, some silicone elastomer
particles and at least one particle that absorbs sebum.
[0003] The invention also relates to a process for caring for
and/or making up the skin, comprising the topical application of
the composition to the skin.
[0004] The invention also relates to a cosmetic process for making
the skin matt and/or for reducing its shine, comprising the topical
application to the said skin of the abovementioned composition.
[0005] Shiny skin, generally associated with a substantial
secretion of sebum, is a problem essentially affecting adolescents,
but which may also appear in adulthood as a result especially of an
overproduction of androgens, or as a result of external factors
such as pollution. Shiny skin may also be associated with sweat
resulting from physical activity or weather conditions. Shiny skin
may be due to the combination of both these phenomena (sebum and
sweat).
[0006] Obtaining a matt effect on the skin is highly desired by
users who have combination or oily skin, and also for cosmetic
compositions that are intended to be used in hot and humid
climates. The reflections caused by excess sebum and/or sweat on
the surface of the skin are, indeed, generally considered
unattractive.
[0007] Shiny skin also generally gives rise to poorer makeup
staying power, which thus has a tendency to become degraded in the
course of the day.
[0008] An effective means of quickly reducing areas of unattractive
shine consists in using "soft-focus" blurring-effect fillers. Using
fillers that absorb sebum and perspiration is also a means for
adding and/or prolonging mattness over time.
[0009] It is known practice to use perlite (FR 2 881 643), fumed
fillers (EP 1 637 186) or fibres as mattifying agents. However,
these fillers may afford adverse results, especially clumps on the
skin and/or a sensation of unclean skin. It is thus sought to limit
the filler content.
[0010] The need remains for mattifying cosmetic compositions which
have good cosmetic properties, and which in particular afford an
efficient (strong), immediate and/or long-lasting mattifying
effect.
[0011] The Applicant has discovered that this need could be met by
combining several specific fillers and especially a) at least some
hydrophobic aerogel particles, b) some silicone elastomer particles
different than the particles a) and c), and c) at least some
mattifying particles different than the particles a) and b).
[0012] The composition thus obtained makes it possible to improve
skin mattness in a lasting manner. The skin is thus rendered matt
in a long-lasting manner. What is more, the performance of the
combination of the three types of particles is greater than that of
each of the particles taken in isolation.
[0013] The compositions according to the invention can also make it
possible to reduce the perception of skin defects at the surface of
the skin and in particular to mask wrinkles and pores and/or to
hide coloured defects of the skin, namely red blotches or
blemishes.
[0014] Moreover, the compositions according to the invention are
fresh upon application and spread easily.
[0015] A subject of the present invention is thus a cosmetic and/or
dermatological composition comprising, in a physiologically
acceptable medium: [0016] a) at least some hydrophobic aerogel
particles [0017] b) at least some silicone elastomer particles
different than the particles c), and [0018] c) at least one
particle that absorbs sebum different than the particles a) and b),
[0019] the said composition comprising at least one aqueous
phase.
[0020] The constituents of the composition according to the
invention will now be described in greater detail.
[0021] Hydrophobic Aerogels:
[0022] Aerogels are ultra-light porous materials. The first
aerogels were made by Kristler in 1932. They are generally
synthesized via a sol-gel process in a liquid medium and then
dried, usually by extraction with a supercritical fluid, the one
most commonly used being supercritical CO.sub.2. This type of
drying makes it possible to avoid shrinkage of the pores and of the
material. Other types of drying also make it possible to obtain
porous materials starting from gel, namely cryodesiccation, which
consists in solidifying the gel at low temperature and in then
subliming the solvent, and drying by evaporation. The materials
thus obtained are referred to respectively as cryogels and
xerogels. The sol-gel process and the various drying operations are
described in detail in Brinker C. J. and Scherer G. W., Sol-Gel
Science, New York: Academic Press, 1990.
[0023] The aerogel particles in accordance with the present
invention are hydrophobic aerogel particles.
[0024] The term "hydrophobic aerogel particle" means any particle
of the aerogel type having a water absorption capacity at the wet
point of less than 0.1 ml/g, i.e. less than 10 g of water per 100 g
of particle.
[0025] The wet point corresponds to the amount of water that needs
to be added to 1 g of particle in order to obtain a homogeneous
paste. This method is derived directly from the method for
determining the oil uptake of a powder as described in standard NF
T 30-022. The measurements are taken in the same manner by means of
the wet point and the flow point, which have, respectively, the
following definitions:
[0026] wet point: weight expressed in grams per 100 g of product
corresponding to the production of a homogeneous paste during the
addition of a solvent to a powder.
[0027] The wet point is measured according to the following
protocol:
[0028] Equipment used:
[0029] Glass plate (25.times.25 mm)
[0030] Spatula (wooden shaft and metal part, 15.times.2.7 mm)
[0031] Silk-bristled brush
[0032] Balance
[0033] The glass plate is placed on the balance and 1 g of aerogel
is weighed out. The beaker containing the solvent and the liquid
sampling pipette is placed on the balance. The solvent is gradually
added to the powder, the whole being regularly blended (every 3 to
4 drops) with the spatula. The mass of solvent required to reach
the wet point is noted. The average of three tests will be
determined.
[0034] The hydrophobic aerogels used according to the present
invention may be organic, inorganic or organic-inorganic hybrid
aerogels.
[0035] The organic aerogels may be based on resins from among the
following: polyurethanes, resorcinol-formaldehyde, polyfurfuranol,
cresol-formaldehyde, phenol-furfuranol, polybutadiene,
melamine-formaldehyde, phenol-furfural, polyimides, polyacrylates,
polymethacrylates, polyolefins, polystyrenes, polyacrylonitriles,
phenol-formaldehyde, polyvinyl alcohol, dialdehydes, polycyanides,
epoxys, celluloses, cellulose derivatives, chitosan, agar, agarose,
alginate, starches, and mixtures thereof.
[0036] Aerogels based on organic-inorganic hybrids, for example
silica-PMMA, silica-chitosan and silica-polyether, are also
envisaged. Patent applications US 2005/0 192 366 and WO 2007/126
410 describe such organic-inorganic hybrid materials.
[0037] The hydrophobic aerogel particles used in the present
invention have a specific surface area per unit of mass (S.sub.M)
ranging from 200 to 1500 m.sup.2/g, preferably from 600 to 1200
m.sup.2/g and better still from 600 to 800 m.sup.2/g, and a size,
expressed as the volume-mean diameter (D[0.5]), of less than 1500
.mu.m and preferably ranging from 1 to 30 .mu.m, more preferably
from 5 to 25 .mu.m, better still from 5 to 20 .mu.m and even better
still from 5 to 15 .mu.m.
[0038] The specific surface area per unit of mass can be determined
by the nitrogen absorption method, known as the BET
(Brunauer-Emmett-Teller) method, described in The Journal of the
American Chemical Society, Vol. 60, page 309, February 1938 and
corresponding to the international standard ISO 5794/1 (appendix
D). The BET specific surface area corresponds to the total specific
surface area of the particles under consideration.
[0039] The sizes of the aerogel particles according to the
invention can be measured by static light scattering using a
commercial particle size analyser such as the MasterSizer 2000
machine from Malvern. The data are processed on the basis of the
Mie scattering theory. This theory, which is exact for isotropic
particles, makes it possible to determine, in the case of
non-spherical particles, an "effective" particle diameter. This
theory is especially described in the publication by Van de Hulst,
H. C., "Light Scattering by Small Particles", Chapters 9 and 10,
Wiley, New York, 1957.
[0040] According to an advantageous embodiment, the hydrophobic
aerogel particles used in the present invention have a specific
surface area per unit of mass (S.sub.M) ranging from 600 to 800
m.sup.2/g and a size, expressed as the volume-mean diameter
(D[0.5]), ranging from 5 to 20 .mu.m and better still from 5 to 15
.mu.m.
[0041] The hydrophobic aerogel particles used in the present
invention may advantageously have a tapped density p ranging from
0.02 g/cm.sup.3 to 0.10 g/cm.sup.3 and preferably from 0.03
g/cm.sup.3 to 0.08 g/cm.sup.3.
[0042] In the context of the present invention, this density may be
assessed according to the following protocol, known as the tapped
density protocol:
[0043] 40 g of powder are poured into a measuring cylinder; the
measuring cylinder is then placed on the Stay 2003 machine from
Stampf Volumeter; the measuring cylinder is subsequently subjected
to a series of 2500 tapping actions (this operation is repeated
until the difference in volume between 2 consecutive tests is less
than 2%); and then the final volume Vf of tapped powder is measured
directly on the measuring cylinder. The tapped density is
determined by the ratio m/Vf, in this instance 40/Vf (Vf being
expressed in cm.sup.3 and m in g).
[0044] According to one embodiment, the hydrophobic aerogel
particles used in the present invention have a specific surface
area per unit of volume S.sub.V ranging from 5 to 60
m.sup.2/cm.sup.3, preferably from 10 to 50 m.sup.2/cm.sup.3 and
better still from 15 to 40 m.sup.2/cm.sup.3.
[0045] The specific surface area per unit of volume is given by the
relationship: S.sub.V=S.sub.M. .rho. where .rho. is the tapped
density expressed in g/cm.sup.3 and S.sub.M is the specific surface
area per unit of mass expressed in m.sup.2/g, as defined above.
[0046] Preferably, the hydrophobic aerogel particles according to
the invention have an oil-absorbing capacity, measured at the wet
point, ranging from 5 to 18 ml/g, preferably from 6 to 15 ml/g and
better still from 8 to 12 ml/g.
[0047] The absorption capacity measured at the wet point, denoted
Wp, corresponds to the amount of oil that needs to be added to 100
g of particles in order to obtain a homogeneous paste.
[0048] It is measured according to the "wet point" method or method
for determining the oil uptake of a powder as described in standard
NF T 30-022. It corresponds to the amount of oil adsorbed onto the
available surface of the powder and/or absorbed by the powder by
measurement of the wet point, described below:
[0049] An amount m=2 g of powder is placed on a glass plate and the
oil (isononyl isononanoate) is then added dropwise. After addition
of 4 to 5 drops of oil to the powder, mixing is performed using a
spatula, and addition of oil is continued until conglomerates of
oil and powder have formed. From this point, the oil is added one
drop at a time and the mixture is then triturated with the spatula.
The addition of oil is stopped when a firm and smooth paste is
obtained. This paste must be able to be spread over the glass plate
without cracks or the formation of lumps. The volume Vs (expressed
in ml) of oil used is then noted.
[0050] The oil uptake corresponds to the ratio Vs/m.
[0051] According to a particular embodiment, the aerogel particles
used are inorganic and are more particularly hydrophobic silica
aerogel particles having the properties stated previously.
[0052] Silica aerogels are porous materials obtained by replacing
(especially by drying) the liquid component of a silica gel with
air.
[0053] They are generally synthesized via a sol-gel process in a
liquid medium and then dried, usually by extraction with a
supercritical fluid, the one most commonly used being supercritical
CO.sub.2. This type of drying makes it possible to avoid shrinkage
of the pores and of the material. The sol-gel process and the
various drying operations are described in detail in Brinker C. J.
and Scherer G. W., Sol-Gel Science, New York: Academic Press,
1990.
[0054] The hydrophobic silica aerogels used according to the
present invention are preferably silylated silica aerogels (INCI
name: silica silylate).
[0055] The term "hydrophobic silica" means any silica whose surface
is treated with silylating agents, for example halogenated silanes
such as alkylchlorosilanes, siloxanes, in particular
dimethylsiloxanes such as hexamethyldisiloxane, or silazanes, so as
to functionalize the OH groups with silyl groups Si--Rn, for
example trimethylsilyl groups.
[0056] As regards the preparation of hydrophobic silica aerogel
particles that have been surface-modified by silylation, reference
may be made to document U.S. Pat. No. 7,470,725.
[0057] Use will in particular be made of the hydrophobic silica
aerogel particles that have been surface-modified with
trimethylsilyl groups.
[0058] As hydrophobic silica aerogels that may be used in the
invention, examples that may be mentioned include the aerogel sold
under the name VM-2260 (INCI name: Silica silylate) by Dow Corning,
the particles of which have a mean size of about 1000 microns and a
specific surface area per unit of mass ranging from 600 to 800
m.sup.2/g.
[0059] Mention may also be made of the aerogels sold by Cabot under
the references Aerogel TLD 201, Aerogel OGD 201 and Aerogel TLD
203, Enova.RTM. Aerogel MT 1100 and Enova Aerogel MT 1200.
[0060] Use will more particularly be made of the aerogel sold under
the name VM-2270 (INCI name: Silica silylate) by Dow Corning, the
particles of which have a mean size ranging from 5-15 microns and a
specific surface area per unit of mass ranging from 600 to 800
m.sup.2/g.
[0061] Use will also be made of the aerogel sold under the name
Enova.RTM. Aerogel MT 1100 (INCI name: Silica silylate) by Cabot,
the particles of which have a mean size ranging from 2-25 microns
and a specific surface area per unit of mass ranging from 600 to
800 m.sup.2/g.
[0062] The hydrophobic aerogel particles represent from 0.1% to 30%
by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 20% by weight, better still from
1')/0 to 10% by weight and more preferably from 1.5% to 5% by
weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0063] Silicone Elastomer Particles
[0064] The composition of the invention comprises at least one
organopolysiloxane elastomer, preferably at least partially
crosslinked.
[0065] The term "elastomer" is understood to mean a deformable,
flexible, solid material having viscoelastic properties and
especially the consistency of a sponge or of a flexible sphere. Its
modulus of elasticity is such that this material withstands
deformation and has a limited ability to extend and to contract.
This material is capable of regaining its original shape after
stretching. This elastomer is formed from high-molecular-weight
polymer chains, the mobility of which is limited by a uniform
network of crosslinking points.
[0066] The organopolysiloxane elastomers used in the composition
according to the invention are preferably partially or completely
crosslinked. They are provided in the form of particles. In
particular, the organopolysiloxane elastomer particles have a size
ranging from 0.1 to 500 .mu.m, preferably from 3 to 200 .mu.m and
better still from 3 to 50 .mu.m. These particles can have any shape
and can, for example, be spherical, flat or amorphous.
[0067] When they are included in an oil phase, these
organopolysiloxane elastomers transform, according to the level of
oil phase used, into a product with a spongy appearance when they
are used in the presence of low contents in the oil phase, or into
a homogeneous gel in the presence of higher quantities of oil
phase. The oil phase can be completely or partially gelled by these
elastomers.
[0068] Accordingly, the elastomers of the invention may be conveyed
in the form of an anhydrous gel constituted of an
organopolysiloxane elastomer and an oil phase. The oil phase used
while manufacturing the anhydrous organopolysiloxane elastomer gel
contains one or more oils that are liquid at room temperature
(25.degree. C.) chosen from hydrocarbon-based oils and/or silicone
oils. Advantageously, the oil phase is a silicone-based liquid
phase, containing one or more oils chosen from
polydimethylsiloxanes with straight or cyclic chains, which are
liquid at room temperature, optionally containing an alkyl or aryl
chain that is pendent or at the chain end, the alkyl chain having
from 1 to 6 carbon atoms.
[0069] The organopolysiloxane elastomers used according to the
invention may be chosen from crosslinked polymers described in
application EP-A-0295886 and from those described in U.S. Pat. No.
5,266,321.
[0070] According to one embodiment, the organopolysiloxane
elastomers used according to the invention may be obtained by an
addition and crosslinking reaction, in the presence of a catalyst,
preferably a platinum type catalyst, of at least: [0071] (a) an
organopolysiloxane having two vinyl groups in the .alpha.-.omega.
position of the silicone chain per molecule; and [0072] (b) an
organopolysiloxane having at least two hydrogen atoms bound to a
silicon atom per molecule.
[0073] The first organopolysiloxane (i) is chosen from
polydimethylsiloxanes; this is preferably a
.alpha.-.omega.-dimethylvinyl polydimethylsiloxane.
[0074] The organopolysiloxane is preferably in a gel obtained
according to the following steps: [0075] (a) mixing the first and
second organopolysiloxanes (i) and (ii); [0076] (b) adding an oil
phase to the mixture from step (a); [0077] (c) polymerizing the
first and second organopolysiloxanes (i) and (ii) in the oil phase
in the presence of a catalyst, preferably a platinum catalyst.
[0078] According to one embodiment, the crosslinked
organopolysiloxane may be obtained by a polymeric addition reaction
of an organohydrogen polysiloxane having formula (I) with an
organopolysiloxane having formula (II) and/or an unsaturated
hydrocarbon chain having formula (III).
[0079] According to a variant, the crosslinked organopolysiloxane
is obtained by a polymeric reaction of an organohydrogen
polysiloxane having formula (I) with an organopolysiloxane having
formula (II).
[0080] Organohydrogen Polysiloxane Having Formula (I)
[0081] The organohydrogen polysiloxane having formula (I) comprises
at least one structural unit chosen from the group composed of a
SiO.sub.2 unit, a HSiO.sub.1.5 unit, a RSiO.sub.1.5 unit, a RHSiO
unit, a R.sub.2SiO unit, a R.sub.3SiO.sub.0.5 unit and a
R.sub.2HSiO.sub.0.5 unit, the R group being in these units a
monovalent hydrocarbon chain containing from 1 to 16 carbon atoms
that may be substituted or unsubstituted but being distinct from an
unsaturated aliphatic group, and having on average at least 1.5
hydrogen atoms bound to a silicon atom.
[0082] The R group in the organohydrogen polysiloxane having
formula (I) may be an alkyl group containing from 1 to 16,
preferably from 10 to 16 carbon atoms. This R group may for example
be a methyl group, an ethyl group, a propyl group, a lauryl group,
a myristyl group or a palmityl group.
[0083] The R group in the organohydrogen polysiloxane having
formula (I) may also be an aryl group such as a phenyl or tolyl
group.
[0084] The R group still in the organohydrogen polysiloxane having
formula (I) may also be a monovalent hydrocarbon chain comprising a
cycloalkyl group such as cyclohexyl or a hydrocarbon chain
substituted by one, two or more groups chosen from a halogen atom
such as chlorine, bromine, fluorine and a cyano group, for example
an .alpha.-trifluoropropyl or chloromethyl group.
[0085] Specifically, it is preferred that the R group represents at
least 30 molar % of methyl group and from 5 to 50 molar %,
preferably from 10 to 40 molar % of hydrocarbon chain containing
from 10 to 16 carbon atoms.
[0086] The hydrocarbon chain can then advantageously contain at
least one lauryl group, or the majority of the R groups can be
lauryl groups.
[0087] The organohydrogen polysiloxane having formula (I) may be
straight, branched or cyclic.
[0088] The organohydrogen polysiloxane having formula (I)
preferably contains from 2 to 50 and even more preferably from 2 to
10 hydrogen atoms bound to a silicon atom (Si--H). The content of
hydrogen atoms bound to a silicon atom in this compound having
formula (I) varies conventionally from 0.5 to 50 molar %, and even
more preferably from 1 to 20 molar % compared with the total sum of
the hydrogen atoms and all the organic groups bound to a silicon
atom.
[0089] Organopolysiloxane Having Formula (II)
[0090] The organopolysiloxane having formula (II) comprises at
least one structural unit chosen from the group composed of a
SiO.sub.2 unit, a (CH.sub.2.dbd.CH)SiO.sub.1.5 unit, a RSiO.sub.1.5
unit, a R(CH.sub.2.dbd.CH)SiO unit, a R.sub.2SiO unit, a
R.sub.3SiO.sub.0.5 unit and a R.sub.2(CH.sub.2.dbd.CH)SiO.sub.0.5
unit, the R group being as defined in formula (I) and having on
average at least 1.5 vinyl groups bound to a silicon atom.
[0091] This compound contains preferably from 2 to 50 vinyl groups
bound to a silicon atom. The average number of vinyl groups bound
to a silicon atom varies preferably from 2 to 10, and even more
preferably from 2 to 5.
[0092] Preferably, at least 30 molar % of the R groups are methyl
groups and 5 to 50 molar %, preferably 10 to 40 molar % of the R
groups are a hydrocarbon chain containing from 10 to 16 carbon
atoms.
[0093] The organopolysiloxane having formula (II) may be straight,
branched or cyclic. The vinyl group content in the compound having
formula (II) varies preferably between 0.5 and 50 molar %, even
more preferably from 1 to 20 molar % with respect to all the
organic groups bound to a silicon atom.
[0094] Optional Unsaturated Hydrocarbon Chain Having Formula
(III)
[0095] The unsaturated hydrocarbon chain having formula (III) meets
the following formula:
C.sub.mH.sub.2m-1(CH.sub.2).sub.xC.sub.mH.sub.2m-1
[0096] in which
[0097] m is an integer ranging from 2 to 6, and
[0098] x is an integer at least equal to 1.
[0099] x is preferably an integer ranging from 1 to 20.
[0100] As examples of this compound having formula (III),
pentadiene, hexadiene, heptadiene, octadiene, pentadecadiene,
heptadecadiene and pentatriacontadiene may be mentioned.
[0101] Polymeric addition reactions are described in detail in
document US 2004/0234477.
[0102] Among crosslinked organopolysiloxanes, crosslinked polyalkyl
dimethylsiloxanes are preferred. Polyalkyl dimethylsiloxane is
understood to mean a straight organopolysiloxane having formula
(IV)
##STR00001##
[0103] containing grafts bound monovalently or divalently having
formula (V)
##STR00002##
[0104] in which:
[0105] Ra is an alkyl group containing from 10 to 16 carbon atoms,
and may be in a preferred manner a lauryl group,
[0106] ya is an integer ranging from 1 to 100,
[0107] za is an integer ranging from 1 to 100,
[0108] yb is an integer ranging from 1 to 100,
[0109] zb is an integer ranging from 1 to 100.
[0110] "Divalently bound" is understood to mean bound to two
distinct organopolysiloxanes having formula (IV). In other words,
this is a bridge between two straight chains as defined by formula
(IV).
[0111] The organopolysiloxane elastomers used in the composition of
the invention may for example be those sold under the names KSG 6
by Shin-Etsu; Trefil E-505C or Trefil E-506C by Dow-Corning;
Gransil (SR-CYC, SR DMF10, SR-DC556) by Grant Industries, or those
sold in the form of gels that are already constituted: KSG 15, KSG
16, KSG 17, KSG 18, KSG 26A, KSG 26B, KSG 41, KSG 42, KSG 43, KSG
44 by Shin-Etsu; Gransil SR 5CYC gel, Gransil SR DMF 10 gel,
Gransil SR DC556 gel by Grant Industries; 1229-02-167 and
1229-02-168 by General Electric. A mixture of silicone elastomers
may also be used, and especially a mixture of these commercial
products.
[0112] Preferably, an organopolysiloxane elastomer will be used
that is sold in a form such that it is conveyed in a
silicone-containing oil.
[0113] The organopolysiloxane elastomer used in the composition of
the invention may also be in the form of an anhydrous gel, and
especially of an anhydrous gel formed of non-spherical particles of
organopolysiloxane elastomer.
[0114] The silicone elastomers are especially elastomeric partially
or completely crosslinked organopolysiloxanes, having a
three-dimensional structure, such as those sold under the names
KSG6.RTM., KSG16.RTM. and KSG18.RTM. by SHIN-ETSU, Trefil
E-505C.RTM. and Trefil E-506C.RTM. by DOW-CORNING, Gransil
SR-CYC.RTM., SR DMF10.RTM., SR-DC556.RTM., SR 5CYC Gel.RTM., SR DMF
10 Gel.RTM. and SR DC 556 Gel.RTM. by GRANT INDUSTRIES, SF
1204.RTM. and JK 113.RTM. by GENERAL ELECTRIC. Silicone elastomer
powders that may be mentioned include the powders sold under the
names "Trefil.RTM. Powder E-505C" and "Trefil.RTM. Powder E-506C"
by DOW CORNING.
[0115] As silicone powder, gum beads of crosslinked
polydimethylsiloxane coated with silsesquioxane resin may be
mentioned, especially sold under the name KSP100 by Shin Etsu,
silicone resin powders in the form of rugby balls such as
especially the product sold under the name NLK-602 by TAKEMOTO.
[0116] Preferably, the silicone elastomer particles have a
number-average size of between 50 nm and 350 microns, better still
between 100 nm and 100 microns and even more preferentially between
0.5 and 100 microns.
[0117] The silicone elastomer particles are present in the
composition according to the invention in a content ranging from
0.01% to 30% by weight, preferably ranging from 0.05% to 20% by
weight, better still ranging from 0.10% to 10% by weight and more
preferably ranging from 0.20% to 5% by weight relative to the total
weight of the composition.
[0118] Particles that Absorb Sebum
[0119] The composition according to the invention comprises
particles that absorb sebum, particularly having a different sebum
uptake than the 2 types of particles a) and b).
[0120] Advantageously, the sebum-absorbing particles have a sebum
uptake of greater than or equal to 10 ml/100 g, especially greater
than or equal to 20 ml/100 g and in particular greater than or
equal to 30 ml/100 g.
[0121] The term "sebum-absorbing particle" means a powder that is
capable of absorbing and/or adsorbing sebum. Generally, this type
of particle is in the form of a powder of particles having a sebum
uptake.
[0122] The sebum uptake corresponds to the amount of sebum absorbed
and/or adsorbed by the particle. It is measured according to the
wet point method described below.
[0123] Advantageously, the sebum-absorbing particle may have a BET
specific surface area of greater than or equal to 200 m.sup.2/g,
preferably greater than 350 m.sup.2/g and preferentially greater
than 500 m.sup.2/g, and especially less than 2000 m.sup.2/g.
[0124] The BET specific surface area is determined according to the
BET (Brunauer-Emmett-Teller) method described in The Journal of the
American Chemical Society, Vol. 60, page 309, February 1938 and
corresponding to the international standard ISO 5794/1 (appendix
D). The BET specific surface area corresponds to the total specific
surface area (thus including micropores) of the particle and
especially of the powder.
[0125] The sebum-absorbing particles may be an inorganic powder or
an organic powder. The particle or particles of one or more
inorganic compounds used in the cosmetic composition may have
different shapes, for example spheres, full or hollow, glitter,
needles or platelets and preferably they are approximately
spherical.
[0126] More precisely, the sebum-absorbing particles may be chosen
from: [0127] silica powders, [0128] polyamide (Nylon.RTM.) powders,
[0129] powders of acrylic polymers, especially of polymethyl
methacrylate, poly(methyl methacrylate/ethylene glycol
dimethacrylate), poly(allyl methacrylate/ethylene glycol
dimethacrylate), ethylene glycol dimethacrylate/lauryl methacrylate
copolymer, [0130] powders of silicone elastomer, obtained
especially by polymerization of organopolysiloxane containing at
least two hydrogen atoms each bonded to a silicon atom and of an
organopolysiloxane comprising at least two ethylenically
unsaturated groups (especially two vinyl groups) in the presence of
a platinum catalyst, [0131] talc, [0132] boron nitride, [0133]
clays, [0134] a mixture thereof.
[0135] The sebum-absorbing particle may be a powder coated with a
hydrophobic treatment agent.
[0136] The hydrophobic treatment agent may be chosen from fatty
acids, for instance stearic acid; metal soaps, for instance
aluminium dimyristate, the aluminium salt of hydrogenated tallow
glutamate; amino acids; N-acylamino acids or salts thereof;
lecithin, isopropyl triisostearyl titanate, waxes, and mixtures
thereof. The N-acylamino acids may comprise an acyl group
containing from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, for instance a
2-ethylhexanoyl, caproyl, lauroyl, myristoyl, palmitoyl, stearoyl
or cocoyl group. The salts of these compounds may be the aluminium,
magnesium, calcium, zirconium, zinc, sodium or potassium salts. The
amino acid may be, for example, lysine, glutamic acid or
alanine.
[0137] The term "alkyl" mentioned in the compounds mentioned above
especially denotes an alkyl group containing from 1 to 30 carbon
atoms and preferably containing from 5 to 16 carbon atoms.
[0138] As non-limiting illustrations of sebum-absorbing particles
according to the invention, mention may be made most particularly
of the particles below.
[0139] Silicas that can be used may be natural and untreated.
Mention may thus be made of the silicas provided under the names
Sillitin N85, Sillitin N87, Sillitin N82, Sillitin V85 and Sillitin
V88 by Hoffmann Mineral.
[0140] They may be fumed silicas.
[0141] The fumed silicas can be obtained by high-temperature
hydrolysis of a volatile silicon compound in an oxyhydrogen flame,
producing a finely divided silica. This process makes it possible
especially to obtain hydrophilic silicas which contain a large
number of silanol groups at their surface. It is possible to
chemically modify the surface of the said silica via a chemical
reaction which brings about a reduction in the number of silanol
groups. It is possible especially to substitute silanol groups with
hydrophobic groups; a hydrophobic silica is then obtained.
[0142] The hydrophobic groups can be:
[0143] (a) trimethylsiloxyl groups, which are obtained especially
by treating fumed silica in the presence of hexamethyldisilazane.
Silicas thus treated are known as "Silica silylate" according to
the CTFA (6th Edition, 1995);
[0144] (b) dimethylsilyloxyl or polydimethylsiloxane groups, which
are obtained especially by treating fumed silica in the presence of
polydimethylsiloxane or dimethyldichlorosilane. Silicas thus
treated are known as "Silica dimethyl silylate" according to the
CTFA (6th Edition, 1995).
[0145] Silica powders that may more particularly be mentioned
include: [0146] the porous silica microspheres sold under the name
Silica Beads SB-700 by Miyoshi; Sunsphere.RTM. H51, Sunsphere.RTM.
H33 by Asahi Glass; [0147] the polydimethylsiloxane-coated
amorphous silica microspheres sold under the name SA Sunsphere.RTM.
H33 and SA Sunsphere.RTM. H53 by Asahi Glass; [0148] the
precipitated silica microspheres, for example coated with inorganic
wax such as polyethylene, and sold especially under the name
Acematt OK 412 by Evonik Degussa.
[0149] A Nylon powder that may be mentioned is the Nylon powder
sold under the name Orgasol.RTM. 4000 by Atochem.
[0150] The silicone elastomers are especially elastomeric partially
or completely crosslinked organopolysiloxanes, having a
three-dimensional structure, such as those sold under the names
KSG6.RTM., KSG16.RTM. and KSG18.RTM. by SHIN-ETSU, Trefil
E-505C.RTM. and Trefil E-506C.RTM. by DOW-CORNING, Gransil
SR-CYC.RTM., SR DMF10.RTM., SR-DC556.RTM., SR 5CYC Gel.RTM., SR DMF
10 Gel.RTM. and SR DC 556 Gel.RTM. by GRANT INDUSTRIES, SF
1204.RTM. and JK 113.RTM. by GENERAL ELECTRIC. Silicone elastomer
powders that may be mentioned include the powders sold under the
names "Trefil.RTM. Powder E-505C" and "Trefil.RTM. Powder E-506C"
by Dow Corning.
[0151] As silicone powder, gum beads of crosslinked
polydimethylsiloxane coated with silsesquioxane resin may be
mentioned, especially sold under the name KSP100 by Shin Etsu,
silicone resin powders in the form of rugby balls such as
especially the product sold under the name NLK-602 by TAKEMOTO.
[0152] Perlite is a natural glass of volcanic origin, shiny
light-grey or black in colour, which results from the rapid cooling
of lava and which is provided in the shape of small particles
resembling pearls.
[0153] The perlite particles used according to the invention are
especially commercially available from World Minerals Europe under
the trade name Perlite P1430, Perlite P2550 or Perlite P2040. These
particles are sold as mattifying agents for paints. They are
presented in the form of a white powder having a crystalline silica
content below 0.1% by weight.
[0154] Preferably, the perlite particles according to the invention
have a particle size distribution such that at least 50% of the
particles have a size of less than 25 .mu.m, preferably of less
than 20 .mu.m. In addition, they preferably have a particle size
distribution such that 90% by weight of the particles have a size
of less than 55 .mu.m and preferably of less than 40 .mu.m.
Furthermore, it is preferable for 90% by weight of the particles to
have a size of greater than 5 .mu.m.
[0155] Boron nitride particles may be mentioned, such as PUHP1030L
by Saint Gobain Ceramics, UHP-1010 by Carborundum, Ronaflair
Extender by Merck, Covalumine Atlas White AS by Sensient, Boroneige
601 by ESK, PUHP3008 by Saint Gobain Ceramics.
[0156] Clays are products that are already well known per se, which
are described, for example, in the publication Mineralogie des
argiles [Mineralogy of Clays], S. Caillere, S. Henin, M. Rautureau,
2nd Edition 1982, Masson.
[0157] Clays are silicates containing a cation that may be chosen
from calcium, magnesium, aluminium, sodium, potassium and lithium
cations, and mixtures thereof.
[0158] Examples of such products that may be mentioned include
clays of the smectite family such as montmorillonites, hectorites,
bentonites, beidellites and saponites, and also of the family of
vermiculites, stevensite and chlorites.
[0159] The clays can be of natural or synthetic origin. Preferably,
clays that are cosmetically compatible and acceptable with keratin
fibres such as the hair are used
[0160] The clay can be chosen from montmorillonite, bentonite,
hectorite, attapulgite, sepiolite and their mixtures. Preferably,
the clay is a bentonite or a hectorite.
[0161] The clays may be chosen from organophilic clays.
[0162] The organophilic clays are clays modified with a chemical
compound chosen from quaternary amines, tertiary amines, amine
acetates, imidazolines, amine soaps, fatty sulfates, alkyl aryl
sulfonates and amine oxides, and mixtures thereof.
[0163] Preferably, the organophilic clays according to the
invention are clays modified with a chemical compound chosen from
quaternary amines.
[0164] Organophilic clays that may be mentioned include
quaternium-18 bentonites such as those sold under the names Bentone
3, Bentone 38 and Bentone 38V by Elementis, Tixogel VP by United
Catalyst, and Claytone 34, Claytone 40 and Claytone XL by Southern
Clay; stearalkonium bentonites such as those sold under the names
Bentone 27V by Elementis, Tixogel LG by United Catalyst, and
Claytone AF and Claytone APA by Southern Clay and
quaternium-18/benzalkonium bentonites such as those sold under the
names Claytone HT and Claytone PS by Southern Clay.
[0165] The organophilic clay is particularly chosen from modified
hectorites such as the hectorite modified by C.sub.10-C.sub.12
fatty acid ammonium chloride, especially distearyldimethylammonium
chloride and stearylbenzyldimethylammonium chloride.
[0166] The clays are especially chosen from montmorillonites and
kaolin.
[0167] Particularly preferred particles that absorb sebum are
silica powders, especially silica powders especially precipitated
and more specifically precipitated silicas coated with wax, boron
nitride, acrylic polymer powders.
[0168] Preferably, the particles have a number-average size of
between 50 nm and 350 microns, better still between 100 nm and 100
microns and even more preferentially between 0.5 and 100
microns.
[0169] The sebum-absorbing particles may be present in the
composition according to the invention in a content ranging from
0.01% to 30% by weight, preferably ranging from 0.1% to 20% by
weight and most preferentially ranging from 0.5% to 10% by weight,
relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0170] Method for Measuring the Sebum Uptake of a Powder:
[0171] The sebum uptake of a powder is measured according to the
method for determining the oil uptake of a powder as described in
standard NF T 30-022. It corresponds to the amount of sebum
adsorbed onto the available surface of the powder, by measuring the
wet point.
[0172] An amount m (in grams) of powder of between about 0.5 g and
5 g (the amount depends on the density of the powder) is placed on
a glass plate and artificial sebum having the composition below is
then added dropwise:
TABLE-US-00001 triolein .sup. 29% oleic acid 28.5% oleyl oleate
18.5% squalene .sup. 14% cholesterol 7% cholesteryl palmitate
3%
[0173] After addition of 4 to 5 drops of artificial sebum, the
artificial sebum is incorporated into the powder using a spatula,
and the addition of the artificial sebum is continued until
conglomerates of artificial sebum and of powder form. From this
point, the artificial sebum is added one drop at a time and the
mixture is then triturated with the spatula. The addition of
artificial sebum is stopped when a firm, smooth paste is obtained.
This paste must be able to be spread over the glass plate without
cracks or the formation of lumps. The volume Vs (expressed in ml)
of artificial sebum used is then noted.
[0174] The sebum uptake corresponds to the ratio Vs/m.
[0175] The composition according to the invention may be cosmetic
and/or dermatological, preferably cosmetic.
[0176] The composition according to the invention is generally
suitable for topical application to the skin and thus generally
comprises a physiologically acceptable medium, i.e. a medium that
is compatible with the skin and/or its integuments. It is
preferably a cosmetically acceptable medium, i.e. a medium which
has a pleasant colour, odour and feel and which does not cause any
unacceptable discomfort (stinging, tautness or redness) liable to
discourage the consumer from using this composition.
[0177] The composition according to the invention may be in any
pharmaceutical form conventionally used for a topical application
and especially in the form of dispersions of gel or lotion type,
emulsions of liquid or semi-liquid consistency of the milk type,
obtained by dispersing an oil phase in an aqueous phase (O/W) or
vice versa (W/O), or suspensions or emulsions of soft, semi-solid
or solid consistency of the cream or gel type, or alternatively
multiple emulsions (W/O/W or O/W/O), microemulsions, vesicular
dispersions of ionic and/or non-ionic type, or wax/aqueous phase
dispersions. The composition according to the invention may as a
variant be presented in anhydrous form such as sticks or compact or
free powders. These compositions are prepared according to the
usual methods.
[0178] In addition, the compositions used according to the
invention can be more or less fluid and can have the appearance of
a white or coloured cream, of an ointment, of a milk, of a lotion,
of a serum, of a paste or of a foam. They may optionally be applied
to the skin in the form of an aerosol. They can also be in solid
form, for example in the form of a stick.
[0179] Preferably, the compositions are liquid.
[0180] When the composition used according to the invention
comprises an oil phase, it preferably contains at least one oil. It
may also contain other fatty substances.
[0181] Mention may be made, as oils which can be used in the
composition of the invention, for example, of: [0182] hydrocarbon
oils of animal origin, such as perhydrosqualene; [0183] hydrocarbon
oils of plant origin, such as liquid triglycerides of fatty acids
containing from 4 to 10 carbon atoms, for instance heptanoic or
octanoic acid triglycerides, or alternatively, for example,
sunflower oil, corn oil, soybean oil, marrow oil, grapeseed oil,
sesame seed oil, hazelnut oil, apricot oil, macadamia oil, arara
oil, castor oil, avocado oil, caprylic/capric acid triglycerides,
for instance those sold by Stearineries Dubois or those sold under
the names Miglyol 810, 812 and 818 by Dynamit Nobel, jojoba oil and
shea butter oil; [0184] synthetic esters and ethers, especially of
fatty acids, for instance the oils of formulae R.sub.1COOR.sub.2
and R.sub.1OR.sub.2 in which R.sub.1 represents a fatty acid
residue containing from 8 to 29 carbon atoms and R.sub.2 represents
a branched or unbranched hydrocarbon-based chain containing from 3
to 30 carbon atoms, for instance Purcellin oil, isononyl
isononanoate, isopropyl myristate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate,
2-octyldodecyl stearate, 2-octyldodecyl erucate or isostearyl
isostearate; hydroxylated esters, for instance isostearyl lactate,
octyl hydroxystearate, octyldodecyl hydroxystearate, diisostearyl
malate or triisocetyl citrate; fatty alcohol heptanoates,
octanoates or decanoates; polyol esters, for instance propylene
glycol dioctanoate, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate and diethylene
glycol diisononanoate; and pentaerythritol esters, for instance
pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate; [0185] straight or branched
hydrocarbons of inorganic or synthetic origin, such as volatile or
non-volatile liquid paraffins, and derivatives thereof, petroleum
jelly, polydecenes, and hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam
oil; [0186] fatty alcohols having from 8 to 26 carbon atoms, such
as cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and their mixture (cetearyl
alcohol), octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol,
2-undecylpentadecanol, oleyl alcohol or linoleyl alcohol; [0187]
partially hydrocarbon-based and/or silicone-based fluoro oils, for
instance those described in document JP-A-2-295 912; [0188]
silicone oils, for instance volatile or non-volatile
polymethylsiloxanes (PDMSs) with a straight or cyclic silicone
chain, which are liquid or pasty at room temperature, especially
cyclopolydimethylsiloxanes (cyclomethicones) such as
cyclohexasiloxane; polydimethylsiloxanes containing alkyl, alkoxy
or phenyl groups, which are pendent or at the end of a silicone
chain, these groups containing from 2 to 24 carbon atoms; phenyl
silicones, for instance phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones,
phenyltrimethylsiloxydiphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones,
diphenylmethyldiphenyltrisiloxanes or 2-phenylethyl trimethylsiloxy
silicates, and polymethylphenylsiloxanes; [0189] mixtures
thereof.
[0190] In the list of the abovementioned oils, the term
"hydrocarbon oil" is understood to mean any oil predominantly
containing carbon and hydrogen atoms, and optionally ester, ether,
fluoro, carboxylic acid and/or alcohol groups.
[0191] The other fatty substances that may be present in the oil
phase are, for example, fatty acids containing from 8 to 30 carbon
atoms, for instance stearic acid, lauric acid, palmitic acid and
oleic acid; waxes, for instance lanolin wax, beeswax, carnauba wax
or candelilla wax, paraffin wax, lignite wax or microcrystalline
waxes, ceresin or ozokerite, and synthetic waxes, for instance
polyethylene waxes and Fischer-Tropsch waxes; silicone resins such
as trifluoromethyl-C.sub.1-4-alkyl dimethicone and trifluoropropyl
dimethicone; and silicone elastomers, for instance the products
sold under the name KSG by Shin-Etsu, under the name Trefil, BY29
or EPSX by Dow Corning, or under the name Gransil by Grant
Industries.
[0192] These fatty substances can be chosen in a varied manner by
those skilled in the art so as to prepare a composition having the
desired properties, for example of consistency or texture.
[0193] According to one particular embodiment of the invention, the
composition according to the invention is a water-in-oil (W/O) or
oil-in-water (O/W) emulsion, preferably an O/W emulsion.
[0194] The O/W emulsion also comprises emulsified gels. The term
"emulsified gels" means dispersions of oils in an aqueous gel. The
addition of surfactant is optional for this pharmaceutical
form.
[0195] The proportion of the oil phase of the emulsion may range
from 2% to 80% by weight and preferably from 5% to 50% by weight
relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0196] The emulsions generally contain at least one emulsifier
chosen from amphoteric, anionic, cationic or non-ionic emulsifiers,
used alone or as a mixture, and optionally a co-emulsifier. The
emulsifiers are appropriately chosen according to the emulsion to
be obtained (W/O or O/W). The emulsifier and the co-emulsifier are
generally present in the composition in a proportion ranging from
0.3% to 30% by weight and preferably from 0.5% to 20% by weight
relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0197] For W/O emulsions, examples of emulsifiers that may be
mentioned include dimethicone copolyols, such as the mixture of
cyclomethicone and dimethicone copolyol sold under the name DC 5225
C by Dow Corning, and alkyl dimethicone copolyols such as the
lauryl methicone copolyol sold under the name Dow Corning 5200
Formulation Aid by Dow Corning, and the cetyl dimethicone copolyol
sold under the name Abil EM 90.RTM. by Goldschmidt. A crosslinked
elastomeric solid organopolysiloxane containing at least one
oxyalkylenated group, such as those obtained according to the
procedure of Examples 3, 4 and 8 of document U.S. Pat. No.
5,412,004 and of the examples of document U.S. Pat. No. 5,811,487,
especially the product of Example 3 (synthesis example) of U.S.
Pat. No. 5,412,004, such as the product sold under the reference
KSG 21 by Shin-Etsu, may also be used as surfactant for W/O
emulsions.
[0198] For O/W emulsions, examples of emulsifiers that may be
mentioned include non-ionic emulsifiers such as oxyalkylenated
(more particularly polyoxyethylenated) fatty acid esters of
glycerol; oxyalkylenated fatty acid esters of sorbitan;
oxyalkylenated (oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylenated) fatty acid
esters; oxyalkylenated (oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylenated)
fatty alcohol ethers; sugar esters such as sucrose stearate; and
mixtures thereof, such as the mixture of glyceryl stearate and
PEG-40 stearate.
[0199] The composition may be an aqueous gel, and may especially
comprise common aqueous gelling agents.
[0200] Advantageously, the composition is a composition comprising
at least one aqueous phase. The aqueous phase generally represents
more than 5% by weight of the total weight of the composition and
preferably more than 20% by weight.
[0201] The composition according to the invention comprises an
aqueous phase comprising water and optionally glycols, ethanol
and/or hydrophilic adjuvants, which may be water-soluble at room
temperature. The composition generally comprises from 30 to 95%
water.
[0202] Advantageously, the composition according to the invention
has a pH ranging from 3 to 8. Preferably, the pH of the composition
ranges from 4 to 6.
[0203] The composition according to the invention may be a
composition for caring for, cleansing or making up bodily or facial
skin, in particular a care composition. The skincare composition
may be, for example, a facial cream, gel or fluid. The skin makeup
composition may be, for example, a foundation, an eyeshadow, a face
powder, a concealer product, a face and body powder, or a body
makeup product.
[0204] Additives:
[0205] The composition according to the present invention may also
contain various adjuvants commonly used in cosmetics, such as
emulsifiers; fillers; preserving agents; sequestrants; dyes;
fragrances; thickeners and gelling agents, in particular acrylamide
homopolymers and copolymers, acrylic homopolymers and copolymers
and acrylamidomethylpropanesulfonic acid (AMPS.RTM.) homopolymers
and copolymers; UV-screening agents.
[0206] Advantageously, to reinforce the mattifying effects of the
composition according to the invention, it also comprises at least
one active agent for caring for oily skin. This active agent is
preferentially chosen from desquamating agents, antimicrobial
agents, anti-inflammatory agents, sebum regulators and
antioxidants.
[0207] It may also contain cosmetic active agents other than those
for caring for oily skin, for instance moisturizers and
vitamins.
[0208] Naturally, a person skilled in the art will take care to
select this or these optional additional compound(s), and/or the
amount thereof, such that the advantageous properties of the
composition according to the invention are not, or are not
substantially, adversely affected by the envisaged addition.
[0209] Active Agent for Caring for Oily Skin
[0210] In the context of the present invention, the expression
"active agent for caring for oily skin" is understood to mean a
compound which intrinsically has--i.e. not requiring the
intervention of an external agent to activate it--biological
activity which may be in particular: [0211] desquamating activity
(which allows the opening of the comedones), and/or [0212]
antimicrobial activity (especially on P. acnes), and/or [0213]
anti-inflammatory activity, and/or [0214] sebum-regulating
activity, and/or [0215] antioxidant activity (which prevents the
oxidation of squalene and the formation of comedones).
[0216] The active agent for caring for oily skin may thus be chosen
from: desquamating agents and/or antimicrobial agents and/or
anti-inflammatory agents and/or sebum regulators and/or
antioxidants.
[0217] 1. Desquamating Agents
[0218] The term "desquamating agent" means any compound capable of
acting: [0219] either directly on desquamation by promoting
exfoliation, such as .beta.-hydroxy acids, in particular salicylic
acid and derivatives thereof (including 5-n-octanoylsalicylic
acid); .alpha.-hydroxy acids, such as glycolic acid, citric acid,
lactic acid, tartaric acid, malic acid or mandelic acid; urea;
gentisic acid; oligofucoses; cinnamic acid; extract of Saphora
japonica; resveratrol and certain jasmonic acid derivatives; [0220]
or on the enzymes involved in desquamation or decomposition of the
corneodesmosomes, such as glycosidases, stratum corneum
chymotryptic enzyme (SCCE) or indeed even other proteases (trypsin,
chymotrypsin-like). Mention may be made of aminosulfonic compounds
and in particular N-(2-hydroxyethyl)piperazine-N-2-ethanesulfonic
acid (HEPES); 2-oxothiazolidine-4-carboxylic acid (procysteine)
derivatives; derivatives of .alpha.-amino acids of glycine type (as
described in EP-0 852 949, and also sodium methyl glycine diacetate
sold by BASF under the trade name Trilon M); honey; sugar
derivatives such as O-octanoyl-6-D-maltose and
N-acetylglucosamine.
[0221] 5-n-Octanoylsalicylic acid is preferred for use in the
present invention.
[0222] 2. Antimicrobial Agents
[0223] The antimicrobial agents that may be used in the composition
according to the invention may especially be chosen from
2,4,4'-trichloro-2'-hydroxydiphenyl ether (or triclosan),
3,4,4'-trichlorocarbanilide, phenoxyethanol, phenoxypropanol,
phenoxyisopropanol, hexamidine isethionate, metronidazole and salts
thereof, miconazole and salts thereof, itraconazole, terconazole,
econazole, ketoconazole, saperconazole, fluconazole, clotrimazole,
butoconazole, oxiconazole, sulfaconazole, sulconazole, terbinafine,
ciclopirox, ciclopirox olamine, undecylenic acid and salts thereof,
benzoyl peroxide, 3-hydroxybenzoic acid, 4-hydroxybenzoic acid,
phytic acid, N-acetyl-L-cysteine acid, lipoic acid, azelaic acid
and salts thereof, arachidonic acid, resorcinol,
2,4,4'-trichloro-2'-hydroxydiphenyl ether,
3,4,4'-trichlorocarbanilide, octopirox, octoxyglycerine,
octanoylglycine, caprylyl glycol, 10-hydroxy-2-decanoic acid,
dichlorophenylimidazoledioxolane and derivatives thereof described
in patent WO 93/18743, copper pidolate, salicylic acid, zinc
salicylate, iodopropynyl butylcarbamate, farnesol and
phytosphingosines, and mixtures thereof.
[0224] The preferred antimicrobial agents are octoxyglycerine,
copper pidolate, zinc salicylate, salicylic acid and iodopropynyl
butylcarbamate.
[0225] 3. Anti-Inflammatory Agents
[0226] As anti-inflammatory or soothing agents that may be used in
the composition according to the invention, mention may be made of:
pentacyclic triterpenes and plant extracts (e.g.: Glycyrrhiza
glabra) containing the same, for instance .beta.-glycyrrhetinic
acid and salts and/or derivatives thereof (glycyrrhetinic acid
monoglucuronide, stearyl glycyrrhetinate, 3-stearoyloxyglycyrrhetic
acid), ursolic acid and salts thereof, oleanolic acid and salts
thereof, betulinic acid and salts thereof, bisabolol, an extract of
Paeonia suffruticosa and/or lactiflora, salicylic acid salts and in
particular zinc salicylate, phycosaccharides from the company
Codif, an extract of Laminaria saccharina, canola oil, bisabolol
and extracts of camomile, allantoin, Sepivital EPC (phosphoric
diester of vitamins E and C) from Seppic, omega-3 unsaturated oils
such as musk rose oil, blackcurrant oil, ecchium oil, fish oil,
plankton extracts, capryloyl glycine, Seppicalm VG (sodium
palmitoylproline and Nymphaea alba) from Seppic, an extract of
Pygeum, an extract of Boswellia serrata, an extract of Centipeda
cunninghami, an extract of Helianthus annuus, an extract of Linum
usitatissimum, tocotrienols, extracts of Cola nitida, extracts of
Centella asiatica, piperonal, an extract of clove, an extract of
Epilobium angustifolium, aloe vera, an extract of Bacopa monieri,
phytosterols, niacinamide, cortisone, hydrocortisone, indomethacin
and betamethasone.
[0227] The preferred anti-inflammatory agents for use in the
present invention are extracts of Centella asiatica,
.beta.-glycyrrhetinic acid and salts thereof, .alpha.-bisabolol and
niacinamide.
[0228] 4. Sebum Regulators
[0229] When the composition according to the invention comprises a
sebum regulator such as a 5.alpha.-reductase inhibitor, this agent
may be chosen especially from: [0230] retinoids, and in particular
retinol; [0231] sulfur and sulfur derivatives; [0232] zinc salts
such as zinc lactate, gluconate, pidolate, carboxylate, salicylate
and/or cysteate; [0233] selenium chloride; [0234] vitamin B6 or
pyridoxine; [0235] the mixture of capryloyl glycine, sarcosine and
Cinnamomum zeylanicum extract sold especially by Seppic under the
trade name Sepicontrol A5.RTM.; [0236] an extract of Laminaria
saccharina sold especially by Secma under the trade name
Phlorogine.RTM.; [0237] an extract of Spiraea ulmaria sold
especially by Silab under the trade name Sebonormine.RTM.; [0238]
extracts of plants of the species Arnica montana, Cinchona
succirubra, Eugenia caryophyllata, Humulus lupulus, Hypericum
perforatum, Mentha piperita, Rosmarinus officinalis, Salvia
officinalis and Thymus vulgaris, all sold, for example, by Maruzen;
[0239] an extract of Serenoa repens sold especially by Euromed;
[0240] extracts of plants of the genus Silybum; [0241] plant
extracts containing sapogenins and in particular extracts of
Dioscorea plants rich in diosgenin; and [0242] extracts of Eugenia
caryophyllata containing eugenol and eugenyl glucoside.
[0243] Zinc salts are preferred for use in the present
invention.
[0244] 5. Antioxidants
[0245] The antioxidants that are preferred for use in the present
invention may be chosen from tocopherol and esters thereof, such as
tocopheryl acetate; BHT and BHA.
[0246] The active agent(s) used in the composition according to the
invention may represent from 0.01% to 50%, preferably from 0.1% to
25% and better still from 0.5% to 10% of the total weight of the
composition.
[0247] The invention also relates to a cosmetic process for caring
for and/or making up the skin, comprising the topical application
to the skin of the composition according to the invention.
[0248] More precisely, it is a process for making the skin matt
and/or for reducing its shine.
[0249] The term "mattifying" means making the skin more matt and
reducing its shine, and thus its unattractive reflections.
[0250] The invention also relates to the cosmetic use of the
composition according to the invention for caring for combination
skin and/or oily skin.
[0251] The invention will now be illustrated with the aid of the
non-limiting examples that follow. In these examples, the amounts
are indicated as weight percentages. Depending on the case, the
compounds are mentioned using chemical names or using CTFA names
(International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook).
EXAMPLES
Example 1
[0252] A facial-care cream in the form of an oil/water emulsion
having the composition below was prepared:
TABLE-US-00002 INCI name (EU) In weight % STEARYL ALCOHOL 0.7
GLYCERYL STEARATE 1 POLYACRYLAMIDE (Sepigel 0.25 305 by Seppic)
GLYCERINE 7 ISONONYL ISONONANOATE 5 DIMETHICONE 5 CETEARYL ALCOHOL
2.5 Water Qs for 100 CAPRYLOYL SALICYLIC ACID 0.11 GLYCERYL
STEARATE 3 OLETH-10 1 PEG-100 STEARATE 1
[0253] In this base, the same combinations of fillers according to
the invention were used as below.
[0254] This composition may be applied in the morning and/or
evening to the face to make combination skin and oily skin
matt.
Example 2
Measuring Mattness/Shine
[0255] Base Formula
TABLE-US-00003 In % AM Isopropyl N-lauroylsarcosinate 5 (Eldew SL
205 from Ajinomoto) Triblock copolymer of ethylene oxide, 1
propylene oxide and ethylene oxide (128 EO/54 PO/128 EO)
(Synperonic PE/F 108 from Croda) Glycerol 5 Ammonium
polyacryldimethyltauramide 1.56 (Hostacerin AMPS .RTM. from
Clariant) Phenoxyethanol 0.3 Hexyl laurate 5 Caprylyl glycol 0.3
Xanthan gum 0.1 Water qs for 100
[0256] In this base, the contents of the 3 fillers are varied
between 0 and 0.5%. The total filler content remains constant
(0.5%).
[0257] Then the mattness of the formula after application is
measured (immediately and in the long term).
[0258] Examples for a Total Filler Content of 0.5%
TABLE-US-00004 Mattness Fillers Content performance Silica silylate
(VM-2270 Aerogel Fine 0.5 + Particles from Dow Corning) Ethylene
glycol dimethacrylate/lauryl 0.5 + methacrylate copolymer (Polytrap
6603 Adsorber) Perlite 0.5 + Silicone elastomer (KSG 16) 0.5 0
Silica (Acematt OK 412) 0.5 0
TABLE-US-00005 Mattness Combinations Content performance Aerogel -
Silicone elastomer 0.25% - + 0.25% Aerogel - Silicone elastomer -
0.17% - +++ Polytrap 0.17% - 0.17% Aerogel - Silicone elastomer -
0.17% - +++ Silica 0.17% - 0.17% Aerogel - Silicone elastomer -
0.17% - +++ Perlite 0.17% - 0.17% Aerogel - Silicone elastomer -
0.17% - +++ Expancel 0.17% - 0.17%
[0259] Measuring Mattness by In Vitro Assessment
[0260] The mattness obtained with composition A according to the
invention, and with composition B given as a comparison example, is
measured by using a contrast card (Prufkarte type 24/5-250
cm.sup.2) sold by Erichsen. The composition has been spread at 2
mg/cm.sup.2 using a mechanical film-stretcher. A mixture was
sprayed 10 times (water/sebum 80/20), then there was a 6-minute
wait at room temperature, then reflection was measured using a
gonioreflectometer. The result obtained is the ratio R between the
specular reflection and the diffuse reflection. The value of R is
proportionately smaller the greater the mattifying effect.
[0261] -: shine
[0262] 0: no effect
[0263] +: matt
[0264] ++: matt+
[0265] +++: very matt
[0266] These results show that the composition according to the
invention delivers skin shine less than that obtained by a
composition containing each of the particles taken in isolation at
the same total concentration.
* * * * *