U.S. patent application number 14/668935 was filed with the patent office on 2015-10-01 for footwear including textile element.
The applicant listed for this patent is Under Armour, Inc.. Invention is credited to Jason Berns, Julian Ellis, Tom Luedecke, Thomas White.
Application Number | 20150272274 14/668935 |
Document ID | / |
Family ID | 54188589 |
Filed Date | 2015-10-01 |
United States Patent
Application |
20150272274 |
Kind Code |
A1 |
Berns; Jason ; et
al. |
October 1, 2015 |
FOOTWEAR INCLUDING TEXTILE ELEMENT
Abstract
An article of footwear includes a sole and an upper at least
partially formed of an textile element. The textile element
includes a yarn matrix having a plurality of interlocked strands
oriented in predetermined directions. A structural element may be
captured within the matrix at selected locations. In operation, the
matrix is stitched onto a temporary substrate. The substrate is
removed and the article coupled to a sole structure to form the
article of footwear.
Inventors: |
Berns; Jason; (Baltimore,
MD) ; Ellis; Julian; (Nottingham, GB) ;
Luedecke; Tom; (Portland, OR) ; White; Thomas;
(Baltimore, MD) |
|
Applicant: |
Name |
City |
State |
Country |
Type |
Under Armour, Inc. |
Baltimore |
MD |
US |
|
|
Family ID: |
54188589 |
Appl. No.: |
14/668935 |
Filed: |
March 25, 2015 |
Related U.S. Patent Documents
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Application
Number |
Filing Date |
Patent Number |
|
|
61970070 |
Mar 25, 2014 |
|
|
|
Current U.S.
Class: |
36/84 |
Current CPC
Class: |
A43B 23/023 20130101;
A43B 1/04 20130101; A43B 7/20 20130101; A43B 23/028 20130101; A43B
23/0225 20130101; A43B 23/042 20130101; A43B 7/14 20130101; A43B
23/087 20130101; A43B 23/025 20130101; A43B 23/027 20130101; A43B
23/0205 20130101; A43B 23/0215 20130101; A43B 23/17 20130101; D05C
17/00 20130101; A43B 23/0265 20130101; A43B 23/026 20130101 |
International
Class: |
A43B 23/02 20060101
A43B023/02 |
Claims
1. An article of footwear comprising: a sole structure; and an
upper secured to the sole structure, the upper comprising: a first
crossing yarn extending in a first direction to define a first
length, the first crossing yarn including a first strand and a
second strand, the first and second strands being interlocked at
selected locations along the first length; a second crossing yarn
extending in a second direction to define a second length, the
second crossing yarn including a first strand and a second strand,
the first and second strands being interlocked at selected
locations along the second length, wherein the first strand of the
second crossing yarn passes over the first strand of the first
crossing yarn, and wherein the second strand of the second crossing
yarn row passes over the second strand of the first crossing yarn
row.
2. The article of footwear according to claim 1, wherein: the
strands of the first crossing yarn are interlocked in a plurality
of locations; the strands of the first crossing yarn are
interlocked via a stitch; the distance between adjacent stitches
defines a stitch length; and the stitch length is less than five
mm.
3. The article of footwear according to claim 1, further comprising
a third crossing yarn extending in a third direction, the third
crossing yarn including a first strand and a second strand, the
first and second strands being interlocked at selected locations
along the third length.
4. The article of footwear according to claim 1, wherein at least
one of the first or second crossing yarns comprises a fiber having
a tensile strength of at least 1000 MPa.
5. The article of footwear according to claim 1, further comprising
an element incorporated into the upper, the element selected from
the group consisting of a structural element, a support element,
and a compression element.
6. The article of footwear according to claim 1, further comprising
a plurality of channel strands oriented in side-by-side relation,
each channel strand being secured along its ends and unsecured
between the ends to define a channel operable to receive a
structural element.
7. The article of footwear according to claim 1, wherein the first
direction is generally orthogonal to the second direction.
8. The article of footwear according to claim 1, wherein: the upper
further comprises a lace eyelet and a sole-facing edge; the upper
further comprises a third crossing yarn having a third length, the
third crossing yarn including a first strand and a second strand
interlocked at selected locations along the third length; the third
crossing yarn extends from the lace eyelet to the sole facing edge
to define an arcuate run along the upper.
9. The article of footwear according to claim 1 further comprising
a compressible element oriented between the first and second
strands of the first crossing yarn.
10. An article of footwear comprising: a sole structure; and an
upper secured to the sole structure, the upper comprising a
self-supporting embroidered element including a first area having a
first stitch density and a second area having a second stitch
density, wherein the first stitch density is greater than the
second stitch density.
11. The article of footwear according to claim 1 wherein the area
having the first stitch density surrounds the area having the
second stitch density.
12. The article of footwear of claim 1, further comprising a third
area possessing a third stitch density, the third stitch density
being less than each of the first stitch density and the second
stitch density.
Description
CROSS REFERENCE TO RELATED APPLICATIONS
[0001] The present application claims priority to provisional
application 61/970,070, filed on 25 Mar. 2014 and entitled
"Footwear Including Embroidered Element," the disclosure of which
is incorporated by reference in its entirety.
FIELD OF THE INVENTION
[0002] The present invention is directed to footwear and, in
particular, to an article of footwear with an upper including
textile element and a method of forming the article of
footwear.
BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION
[0003] Athletic footwear such as running shoes is designed for
comfort and durability. Athletic footwear is typically formed of
materials having insulating, moisture resistant, and/or
abrasion-resistant properties. Typical athletic uppers are a
laminate of individual layers, with each layer imparting different
properties to the upper. For example, an upper for athletic
footwear includes an exterior layer, an intermediate layer, and an
interior layer joined via an adhesive. The exterior layer is formed
from one or more of leather, synthetic leather, rubber, or
synthetic textile. The intermediate layer us formed of foam, and
the interior layer is a textile.
[0004] Such conventional athletic footwear, while durable, is heavy
since each layer of the upper adds weight to the footwear. In
addition, this type of construction interferes with the
breathability of the upper, requiring further modification to
compensate. Thus, it would be desirable to provide an upper that is
light, while durable for use in performance footwear.
BRIEF SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION
[0005] The present invention is directed toward an article of
manufacture including a textile element. Specifically, an article
of footwear includes a sole and an upper at least partially formed
of an embroidered element. The textile element includes a yarn
matrix having a plurality of interlocked strands oriented in
predetermined directions. A structural element may be captured
within the matrix at selected locations. In operation, the matrix
is stitched onto a temporary substrate. The substrate is removed
and the article coupled to a sole structure to form the article of
footwear.
BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE SEVERAL VIEWS OF THE DRAWINGS
[0006] FIG. 1 is a side view of an article of footwear including an
upper in accordance with an embodiment of the present
invention;
[0007] FIG. 2A is a schematic of the stitch pattern of the
embroidered element in accordance with an embodiment of present
invention;
[0008] FIG. 2B is a cross sectional view of the crossing threads of
the embroidered element in accordance with an embodiment of the
present invention;
[0009] FIGS. 3A-3C illustrate schematics showing the relationship
between layers of the embroidered element;
[0010] FIG. 4 illustrates a portion of a footwear upper including
the embroidered element, with an inset showing a close-up of the
support threads;
[0011] FIG. 5 is a flow diagram showing a process of forming the
embroidered element;
[0012] FIGS. 6 and 7 illustrate footwear uppers including the
embroidered element in accordance with embodiments of the
invention; and
[0013] FIG. 8 illustrates a close-up of the vamp of the footwear
upper shown in FIG. 7.
[0014] Like numerals have been utilized to identify like components
throughout the figures.
DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION
[0015] Turning to FIG. 1, the article of manufacture is an article
of footwear 10 including an upper 105 and a sole structure 110. The
footwear 10 defines several regions corresponding with various
parts of a foot. Specifically, the footwear defines a rear footwear
region 115 generally corresponding with the rear of the foot (e.g.,
the hindfoot including the heel); an intermediate footwear region
120 disposed forward the rear region and generally corresponding to
the midfoot (e.g., the arched (instep) and ball areas of the foot);
and a forward footwear region 125 disposed forward of intermediate
region and generally corresponding to the forefoot (e.g., the toes
of the foot).
[0016] The upper 105 includes a heel 130, a lateral side 135, a
medial side 140, an instep 145, and a toe cage or box 150. The heel
145 forms a rear portion of upper 10 and is generally configured to
extend along the heel of the foot. The lateral side 135 spans
through a longitudinal length of the article footwear 10, being
configured to extend along the lateral side of the foot. Similarly,
the medial side 140 spans a longitudinal length of footwear, being
configured to extend along the medial side of the foot. The instep
145, positioned between the lateral side and the medial side,
extends along the instep of the foot. Finally, the toe cage 150
defines the forward area of the upper 105, being configured to
house the toes of the foot.
[0017] The upper 105 forms a cavity that receives the foot.
Specifically, the heel 130, lateral side 135, medial side 140,
instep 145, and toe cage 150 cooperate to define an interior cavity
into which a foot is inserted by way of an access opening or collar
155. The upper may further include a tongue 160 and lace
connections 165 (e.g., eyelets) that receive a lace 170.
[0018] At least a portion of the upper 105 is formed of a textile
element including a yarn matrix. The yarn matrix is a
self-supporting, embroidered structure including a plurality of
interlocking yarn rows oriented in predetermined directions.
Referring to FIG. 2A, the self-supporting, embroidered structure
200 includes a plurality of crossing yarns 205 (also called binding
yarns) oriented in a predetermine pattern (e.g., in rows 230A,
230B, 230C). Each crossing yarn 205 includes a pair of component
strands that interlock at selected locations along the length of
the yarn. Specifically, referring to FIG. 2A, a crossing yarn 205
includes a first or upper strand 215A and a second or lower strand
215B that is generally aligned (e.g., vertically aligned) with the
first strand. A strand in intended to include single fiber,
filament, or monofilament, as well as an assemblage of textile
fibers having a high ratio of length to diameter and normally used
as a unit (e.g. includes slivers, roving, single yarns, plies
yarns, cords, braids, ropes, etc.).
[0019] Referring to FIG. 2B, the crossing yarn 205 includes a first
strand 215A and a second strand 215B coupled at selected locations
along the length of the yarn. Specifically, the strands 215A, 215B
are coupled via a stitch 225, i.e., an interlocking structure that
locks the strands together. By way of example, lockstitch (where
the one strand wraps the other strand) is utilized. A lockstitch
effectively secures the strands to each other, preventing
unraveling of crossing yarn 205. While a particular lockstitch is
illustrated (an over-lock stitch), it should be understood that
different means of interlocking may be utilized to provide desired
load extension characteristics to the textile structure. For
example, other stitches such as a tatami stitch, a triaxial fill
stitch, satin stitch, running stitch, chain stitch, etc. may be
utilized.
[0020] The stitches 225 may be disposed at any predetermined
location along the structure. Typically, the stitches 225 are
disposed are regular intervals along the length of the crossing
yarn 205. The distance between adjacent stitches is referred to as
the stitch length SL. The strands 215A, 215B are substantially
aligned with each other along the yarn length. The stitch length
may be any distance suitable for its described purpose (to form a
self-supporting embroidered element and/or footwear upper). For
example, the stitch length may range from about 0.1 mm to about 5
mm (e.g., 0.5 mm to 4 mm).
[0021] By controlling the number of stitches in the crossing yarn
205, the overall stitch density of the embroidered structure 205
may be controlled to affect the overall properties of the structure
(and thus the footwear upper). For example, the crossing yarn 205
and/or the self-supporting, embroidered structure 200 may include a
high stitch density, a medium stitch density, or a low stitch
density. In a high density stitch configuration, the strands 215A,
215B of the crossing yarn 205 include a stitch every 0.20 mm-1.50
mm (e.g., 1 mm). In a medium density stitch configuration, the
strands 215A, 215B are stitched every 1.60-3.50 mm (e.g., 2 mm). A
low stitch density includes stitches every 3.60-5.00 mm (e.g., 4
mm). Accordingly, stitch density refers not only to the density of
stitches in a crossing yarn 205, but also the number of stitches in
a predetermined area of the embroidered structure 200 (e.g., number
of stitches per square millimeter, centimeter, etc.). In a
preferred embodiment, the stitch length is less than 5 mm. Stitch
lengths of greater than 5 mm may introduce failures during the
stitching process.
[0022] Each crossing yarn 205 (i.e., each strand 215A, 215B) may be
formed of any material suitable for its described purpose (i.e., to
create an embroidered structure and/or a footwear upper). By way of
example, each thread component may be formed of nylon, polyester,
polyacrylic, polypropylene, polyethylene, metal, silk, cellulosic
fibers (e.g., cotton), elastomers, etc. The strands 215A, 215B
forming the crossing yarn 205 may be formed of the same or
different materials. For example, the first strand 215A may be
formed of a first material (e.g., nylon) while the second thread
component 215B may be formed of a second material (e.g.,
polyester). In an embodiment, both strands of the crossing yarns
205 are formed of nylon (e.g., M60 nylon).
[0023] Additionally, the crossing yarn 205 may include fusible or
non-fusible material. In an embodiment, the crossing yarn 205
(i.e., one or more strands 215A, 215B of the crossing yarn) may
include thermoplastic polymers capable of transitioning to a liquid
upon heating to a predetermined melting or glass transition
temperature, and then recrystallizing when heat is removed to form
a hardened structure (i.e., the crossing yarns are capable of
fusing, combining with adjacent fusible materials or encapsulating
adjacent non-fusible materials). By way of example, a strand 215A,
215B may be a filament of low-melt material (e.g., low-melt
polyester having a melting point of less than 100.degree. C.). By
way of further example, the crossing yarn may include a sheath core
or double covered yarn, including a sheath or covering of fusible
material and a core including non-fusible material.
[0024] The crossing yarn 205 may further include a high tensile
material, i.e., a material having a tensile strength of at least
1000 MPa. By way of example, strands 215A, 215B of the crossing
yarn 205 may comprise an ultra-high molecular polyethylene (e.g.,
DYNEEMA, available from Royal DSM, Netherlands). Other high tensile
strength materials include carbon fiber, fiberglass, aramids (e.g.,
para-aramid fibers and meta-aramid fibers) (KEVLAR, available from
DuPont or TWARON, available from Tejin Aramid) and liquid crystal
polymer fibers (VECTRAN, available from Celanese Acetate, LLC or
ZYLON, available from Toyobo Corporation).
[0025] The diameter of the strands 215A, 215B may possess any
diameter suitable for their described purpose (i.e., to form a
self-supporting embroidered structure/form a footwear upper). By
way of example, the thread components may be from about 0.003 mm to
about 5 mm (e.g., 0.05 mm to 1 mm) in diameter.
[0026] As noted above, the structure 200 may be formed via a
modified embroidery process in which crossing yarns are selectively
fixed to a temporary substrate. Briefly, the temporary substrate is
positioned on a frame. The first strand 215A disposed on a first
side of a temporary substrate and the second thread component 215B
is disposed on a second side of the temporary substrate such that
it is generally aligned with the first thread component. At
predetermined intervals, the second thread component 215B passes
through the temporary substrate 220, over the first thread
component 215A, and back to through the substrate 220 to form a
stitch 225. The frame is repositioned and the process continues,
forming a row or run along the temporary substrate. The resulting
yarn 205 includes strands generally aligned on opposite sides of
the temporary substrate. Once the innermost crossing yarn rows are
formed, additional overstitch or enclosing rows may be stitched
into the temporary substrate such that the overstitch strands cross
over their related innermost strands. This process may continue to
form multiple layers of crossing yarns in the matrix. Once the
desired number of rows is created, the temporary substrate is then
removed, resulting in a self-supporting structure.
[0027] The embroidered structure 200 may include crossing yarns 205
ordered in a predetermined pattern. For example, the crossing yarns
205 may be provided in a matrix including a plurality of
intersecting and/or overlapping strands 215A, 215B. Referring back
to FIG. 2A, the matrix/structure 200 includes a first line or row
or run 230A of crossing yarns 205 oriented along a first direction
(e.g., generally vertically from the perspective of FIG. 2A) and a
second row or run 230B of crossing threads oriented along a second
230B (e.g., generally horizontally from the perspective of FIG.
2A). Accordingly, a grid is formed, with the first row 230A being
oriented substantially orthogonally to the second row 230B within
the matrix.
[0028] Additionally, a third row or run 230C oriented along a third
direction may be provided. The third row 230C defines a generally
arcuate line having a predetermined radius of curvature. As shown,
the third row 230C may include segments that bisect the grid blocks
defined by the first 230A and second 230B rows. In other words, the
third row or run 203C may be oriented at an angle with respect to
each of the first row 230A and the second row 230B. In an
embodiment, the angle of orientation may fall within the range of
about 5.degree. to about 90.degree..
[0029] The matrix may further include a fourth row or run 230D that
forms a zigzag pattern within the structure 200.
[0030] As noted above, the embroidered structure 200 in accordance
with the present invention includes multiple layers. That is, any
of the crossing yarn rows 230A, 230B, 230C (i.e., any of strands
215A, 215B) may enclose/overlap or be enclosed/overlapped by any of
the other rows. By way of example, and referring to FIGS. 3A, 3B,
and 3C, the first crossing element row 230A may define a base or
innermost layer of the matrix, being placed first on the temporary
substrate 300 such that it does not overlap any other row.
Subsequently, the second crossing element row 230B is placed on the
temporary substrate such that the first strand 215A of the second
row passes over the first strand of the first row 230A. Similarly,
the second strand 215B of the second row 230B passes over the
second strand of the first row 230A. Similarly, the third row 230C
may be formed after the formation of the second row 230B such that
it passes over each of the first row 230A and the second row.
[0031] The number of layers formed in the embroidered structure 200
is not particularly limited. In a preferred embodiment, the
structure 200 includes a first or base layer and a second or
overpass layer formed over the base layer. Additionally, a third,
overstitch layer may be formed at selected locations within the
structure 200 (i.e., the structure includes areas of three layers
and areas of two layers).
[0032] As seen in the figure, the stitch 225 of any enclosing row
may be aligned with or offset from the stitches of an enclosed row.
Similarly, the stitches of an enclosing row may align with or be
offset from the crossing yarns 205 of an enclosed row.
[0033] With this configuration the properties (e.g., tensile
strength) of the embroidered structure may be customized for a
particular use. For example, the strength of an area within the
embroidered structure 200 may be modified by increasing the density
of crossing yarns 205 and/or increasing the density of stitches 225
within the area. Specifically, a high density area would possess
higher tensile/burst strength and lower breathability, while a low
density area would possess a lower tensile/burst strength and
higher breathability.
[0034] The process according to the present invention further
permits the incorporation of structural, support, or compressible
elements within the embroidered structure 200. Typically, these
elements are not directly stitched into the matrix, but are instead
captured within it. Stated another way, these elements are not
yarns or strands stitched together, but are separate components
secured to the embroidered structure by the yarns or strands. A
structural element is an element designed to help carry the tensile
load and/or disperse the forces applied to the upper during normal
use. Referring the FIG. 4, showing embroidered structure portion
defining a medium stitch density area 405 and a low stitch density
area 410, a plurality of structural elements 415 are disposed at
selected locations within the structure. Each structural element
415 includes a plurality of high tensile strength strands 420A,
420B, 420C such as aramid strands (e.g., KEVLAR, available from
DuPont). The number of strands 420A, 420B, 420C forming the
structural element 415 is not limited, and may be selected in light
of the desired level of support.
[0035] The structural element 415 is incorporated into the
embroidered structure 200 by capturing the strands between
structure layers. That is, each of the structural element strands
420A, 420B, 420C is at least partially captured within the
embroidered structure 200 such that at least a portion of the
strand is secured in position by a crossing element 205. In
operation, the structural element 415 (i.e., the strands 420A,
420B, 420C) may be placed on one surface of temporary substrate and
the rows 230A, 230B, 230C formed as described above. As a result,
the structural element strands 420A, 420B, 420C are enclosed by the
matrix, with the first 230A and second 230B rows of crossing yarn
205 passing over the structural element strands 230A, 230B, 230C
(i.e., first crossing yarn strand 215A travels over one side of the
structural element strands and the second crossing yarn strand 215B
crossing over the opposite side of the structure element
strands).
[0036] The structural element 415 may, furthermore, be enclosed
within a tube, channel, or pocket 425 formed integrally with the
embroidered structure 200. Specifically, the structural element 415
may be secured within the embroidered structure 200 by crossing
yarns 205 that enclose the element. Referring to the expanded view
in FIG. 4, a plurality of channel yarns 405 are arranged along the
length of the structural element 415 (i.e., the plurality of
structural element strands 420A, 420B, 420C) in a close
side-by-side relationship such that the crossing yarn strands 215A,
215B are oriented generally parallel to each other, with the strand
direction being generally orthogonal to the longitudinal axis of
the structural element strands. Each channel yarn 405 includes
first and second channel strands secured along its ends and
unsecured between its ends to define a channel or pocket operable
to receive the structural element. By way of example, a stem stitch
may be utilized to form the channel or pocket 425.
[0037] The stitches 225 are positioned adjacent the lateral sides
of the structural element 215, thereby forming the channel, tube,
or pocket 425 that houses the structural element. The channel 425
secures the structural element 415 within the embroidered structure
200 such that the position of the structural element remains fixed.
Additionally, the channel 425, covering the entire length of the
structural element 415, enclosing it therein, serves to protect the
structural element from the ambient environment (UV radiation,
moisture, etc.). For example, aramid (e.g., KEVLAR) is UV and water
sensitive. Accordingly, enclosing the aramid strands protects the
strands, improving their longevity.
[0038] A structural element may further include textiles operable
to impart improved tensile strength to the upper. By way of
example, a nonwoven panel may be positioned within the eyelet row
to reinforce the eyelet holes.
[0039] A support element is a component of the footwear upper
operable to provide support to the wearer. Footwear often includes
brace elements such as plastic splints configured to stabilize the
ankle of the wearer (to prevent inversion and/or eversion) of the
foot. Additional heel supports (e.g., heel counters) are
incorporated to secure and limit movement of the heel during use of
the shoe. Finally, other protective items may be incorporated such
as toe covers. In general, these elements are formed of an
elastomer such as thermoplastic polyurethane. These elements may be
incorporated into the embroidered structure in a manner similar to
that of the structural element. That is, the support element may be
positioned on the temporary substrate and captured within one or
more layers defined by the crossing yarn rows 230A, 230B, 230C.
Additionally, a channel or pocket 425 formed of crossing yarns 205
may further secure the position of the support element, fixing its
location within the structure 200.
[0040] A compression element is capable of absorbing impact forces.
By way of example, a compressible element may be formed of foam
(e.g., ethylene vinyl acetate foam). The compression element may be
located within the upper at any desired location, e.g., along the
collar of the upper, within the heel cup, or within the tongue of
the shoe. The compression element may be incorporated into the
embroidered structure 200 in a manner similar to that of the
structural element. That is, the comfort element may be positioned
on the temporary substrate and captured within one or more layers
formed by the crossing yarn rows 230A, 230B, 230C. Additionally, a
channel 425 formed of crossing yarns 205 may further secure the
position of the support element, fixing its location within the
structure 200.
[0041] The formation process 500 of the embroidered structure 200
is explained in greater detail with reference to FIG. 5. At step
505, the temporary substrate 300 is provided, being secured to a
support frame. The temporary substrate 300 is formed of material
that is removable in a manner that does not damage the embroidered
structure 200. In an embodiment, the temporary substrate 300 is
removed chemically, e.g., via dissolution. Dissolvable substrate
materials are selected to minimize or prevent any harm to the
physical properties of the materials forming the embroidered
structure 200 during the dissolution process. By way of example,
the temporary substrate 300 may be water soluble, being formed of,
e.g., polyvinyl acetate, polyvinyl alcohol, or alginate.
Accordingly, the dissolution medium is an aqueous medium such as
water at elevated temperature (e.g., 50.degree. C.). Alternatively,
the temporary substrate may be soluble in an organic solvent such
as acetone (e.g., an acetate-based substrate).
[0042] At Step 510, any of the structural elements 415, the support
elements, or the compression elements may be placed on the
temporary substrate 300. Each element is place such that it
corresponds to the proper location of the finished upper (collar,
heel cup, toe cage, etc.). For example, the structural element 415
may be positioned on the temporary substrate 300 such that the
longitudinal axis of the structural element generally aligns with
the tensile load direction of the footwear upper. It is important
to note that while the structural, support, or compression elements
are discussed as being placed directly on the substrate 300, it
should be understood that they may be added at any point during the
embroidery process (e.g., after the base layer of crossing yarns
205 is secured to the temporary substrate).
[0043] At Step 515, the crossing yarn rows 230A, 230B, 230C are
formed. Specifically, the crossing yarn rows 230A, 230B, 230C
(including first strand 215A and second strand 215B) are applied to
the temporary substrate 300 as described above (Step 415A).
[0044] At Step 525, the temporary substrate 300 is removed, e.g.,
via dissolution. By way of example, the temporary substrate 300 may
be placed in a bath of dissolving agent such as water (e.g., water
heated to a specified temperature (e.g., 50.degree.), steam, etc.).
By way of further example, the dissolving agent may be applied to
the temporary substrate 300 via spray coating, etc. The substrate
removal process may further involve the application of heat or
mechanical agitation effective to aid in dissolution of the
substrate without harming the embroidered structure 200. Once
removed, a self-supporting embroidered structure results.
[0045] At Step 530, the self-supporting, embroidered structure 200
may undergo additional processing. For example, if fusible strands
are present in the structure, the structure 200 may be heated to
induce fusion. Once cooled, the fused fibers will stiffen the
matrix, reducing its resiliency. Alternatively, the embroidered
structure may be secured to another structure to form a composite
structure. For example, the self-supporting embroidered structure
200 may be secured to a woven, knitted, or non-woven textile. The
textile may form a portion of the upper, are may define an
additional (exterior) layer within the structure. By way of
specific example, the textile may define the border of the upper,
providing a narrow band capable of being secured to the sole
structure. Alternatively, the textile may be a decorative trim
piece.
[0046] Additionally, a thermoplastic skin layer may be bonded to
the embroidered structure 200 to provide water resistance and/or
abrasion protection. In general, the skin layer is softened to
infiltrate the fibers of the yarn matrix, then cooled, securing the
skin layer to the upper.
[0047] Finally, in Step 535, either the resulting composite textile
structure or the self-supporting embroidered structure 200 is
secured to a sole structure to form the article of footwear.
[0048] Examples of footwear uppers formed utilizing the process
explained above is provided in FIGS. 6 and 7. Referring to FIG. 6,
the footwear upper 600 includes a body 605 and a tongue 610, each
including an embroidered structure 200 defining a high stitch
density areas 615A, medium stitch density areas 615B, and low
stitch density areas 615C. As explained above, areas 615C of low
stitch density possess lower tensile strength, but possess higher
breathability properties since the embroidered structure possesses
a generally open, mesh-like configuration. As illustrated, low
stitch density areas may be located along the toe cage, along the
lateral side 617A and the medial side 617B, and within the heel cup
618. The medium stitch density areas 615B surround each of the low
stitch density areas 615C, which, in turn, are surrounded by high
stitch density areas 615A that extend to the inner perimeter 620A
and outer perimeter 620B of the body 605 and the perimeter 625 of
tongue 610. As illustrated, the lateral side 617A stitch pattern is
a mirror image medial side 617B stitch pattern (as divided by body
centerline C).
[0049] The footwear upper 600 further includes a plurality of
eyelets disposed at selected locations along the body 605.
Specifically, a plurality of spaced lateral eyelets 630A is
oriented along the interior body perimeter 620B (proximate tongue
opening). Similarly, a plurality of spaced medial eyelets 630B is
oriented along the interior body perimeter 620B (proximate tongue
opening).
[0050] A series of structural elements 415 are further included in
the footwear upper. Specifically, a structural element 415 (e.g.,
one or more high tension strength strands captured in a channel or
pocket 425) is associated with each eyelet of the plurality of
eyelets 630A, 630B. As shown, each structural element is generally
aligned with the direction of the tensile load, encircling each
eyelet and extending from interior body perimeter 620B to exterior
body perimeter 620A. Additionally, the body 605 further includes a
structural element 415 running from the first eyelet 635A one the
lateral side 617A around the centerline C of the heel cup 618 and
to the first eyelet 635B on the medial side 617B.
[0051] Additionally, the footwear upper 600 includes one or more
compression elements 640 disposed at selected locations.
Specifically, a compression element 640 is positioned within the
heel cup 618, proximate the body interior perimeter 620B (i.e.,
along the collar of the upper). As shown the compression element
extends from the lateral side 617A of the heel cup to the medial
side 617B of the heel cup. Additionally, the tongue 605 includes a
compression element 640 operable to provide cushioning to the
instep of the wearer.
[0052] The structural element 415, as well as the cushioning
element 640, may be incorporated in the footwear upper as described
above.
[0053] FIG. 7 illustrates a footwear upper 700 in accordance with
an embodiment of the invention. The upper 700 includes a body 705
having a centerline C defining a lateral body side 710A and a
medial body side 710B. The body, furthermore, defines a first or
sole-facing perimeter 715A and a second or eyelet perimeter 715B,
which, in turn, defines tongue opening 720. A plurality of eyelets
722 are disposed along the second perimeter 715B, being formed on
each of the lateral and medial sides. In contrast with the
embodiment of FIG. 6, the footwear upper 700 of FIG. 7 includes a
forward embroidered portion 725A and a rearward non-embroidered
(textile) portion 725B connected via, e.g., stitching. The
embroidery portion 725A generally spans the forefoot and midfoot
areas of the foot, while the non-embroidered portion 725B generally
spans the heel area of the foot.
[0054] The embroidered portion includes an embroidery structure 200
as described above, including a high stitch density area 727A, a
medium stitch density area 727B, and a low stitch density area
727C. The lateral quarter 730A and the medial quarter 730B,
furthermore, each includes a yarn matrix similar to that described
above, having a first crossing yarn row 230A oriented general
orthogonal to a second crossing yarn row 230B, which are each
intersected by a generally arcuate third crossing yarn row 230C.
Within the quarters 730A, 730B, the longitudinal axis of the first
crossing yarn row 230A is oriented generally orthogonal to the
edges of the first 715A and second 715B body perimeters, while the
longitudinal axis of the second crossing yarn row 230B is oriented
generally parallel to the perimeters.
[0055] As best seen in FIG. 8, the embroidered structure 200 in the
vamp 735 includes a first crossing yarn row 230A, a second crossing
yarn row 230B, and a third crossing yarn row. Similarly to the
above configuration, the first crossing yarn row 230A is oriented
generally orthogonal to the first 715A and second 715B body
perimeters. Each of the second crossing yarn row 230B and the third
crossing yarn row 230C are generally arcuate. The embroidered
structure 200 further includes tension yarns disposed at selected
locations and configured to disperse tensile load on the upper 700.
Specifically, the embroidered structure includes a first set 740 of
tension yarns extending from the eyelet 722 to the first body
perimeter 715A to define a generally straight row and a second set
745 of tension yarns extending forward from each eyelet 722 to the
first body perimeter 715A to define a generally arcuate row. Each
yarn of the sets 740, 745 includes a first strand 215A and a second
strand 215B as described above. The strands 215A, 215B may be high
tensile strength strands (i.e., strands having a tensile strength
of at least 1000 MPa such as ultrahigh molecular weight
polyethylene) or may be low tensile strength strands (e.g., nylon).
In an embodiment, the tension yarns form the innermost layer of the
embroidered structure.
[0056] The yarn matrix of the quarters 730A, 730B may further
include plurality of individual overstitch strands 750 extending
from each eyelet 722 to the first body perimeter 715A. Each strand
may be configured to further improve the strength of the
embroidered structure by compensating for lesser tensile forces
applied to the shoe during use. That is, each strand may extend
from the eyelet 722 at a predetermined angle that aligns with the
expected axis of tensile load applied to the upper. In an
embodiment, the overstitch strands 750 forms the outermost layer of
the embroidered structure.
[0057] As with the above embodiment, the embroidered structure 200
may further include a structural element to further compensate for
forces applied to the eyelets during operation. By way of example,
the upper 700 may include a reinforcing structure formed of a
nonwoven textile that is incorporated into the embroidered
structure 200.
[0058] The textile portion 725B may comprise materials utilized in
conventional footwear. By way of example, it may comprise a knitted
or woven fabric outer layer, a foam intermediate layer, and a
knitted or woven fabric interior layer.
[0059] The above described invention provides a self-supporting
embroidered element. This is in contrast with conventional uppers
utilizing embroidery techniques, which require a substrate or
foundation layer to which one or more strands are secured.
[0060] Utilizing the above invention, it is possible to create an
article of footwear having an upper with predetermined physical
properties, including, but not limited to, stretch, breathability,
and abrasion resistance. During walking, running, or other
ambulatory activities, forces induced in footwear may tend to
stretch upper in various directions, with forces concentrated at
various locations. The strands are located to function as
structural elements in the upper, e.g. to permit, limit, or resist
stretching in various directions or reinforce locations where
forces are concentrated.
[0061] While the invention has been described in detail and with
reference to specific embodiments thereof, it will be apparent to
one skilled in the art that various changes and modifications can
be made therein without departing from the spirit and scope
thereof. For example, the materials forming the crossing yarns 205
may be any suitable for its described purpose. The yarns may be
selectively utilized to modify properties of footwear 10 including
stretch, stretch-resistance, air permeability wear-resistance, etc.
Additionally, the yarns may be selectively placed within the upper
to provide specific areas of upper with desired properties. For
example, a particular material/structure may be concentrated in
areas of the upper that experience wear, such as in forefoot
region. If utilized for wear-resistance, the yarns may be formed of
materials that exhibit high wear-resistance properties. Other
functional yarns may be utilized such as those capable of
transporting moisture and thus of absorbing sweat and moisture may
be utilized. The yarns may be electrically conducting,
self-cleaning, thermally regulating and insulating, flame
resistant, and/or UV-absorbing.
[0062] In addition, fusible yarns may be utilized. Fusible yarns
soften when exposed to heat of a predetermined temperature,
hardening once cooled (e.g., at ambient conditions). Fusible yarns
are formed of thermoplastic polymer material, such as polyurethane,
nylon, polyester, and polyolefin. Fusible yarns may also include a
mixture of a thermoplastic yarn and polyester or nylon. The
structure of such yarns may include a thermoplastic yarn surrounded
by a non-thermoplastic yarn; a non-thermoplastic yarn surrounded by
thermoplastic yarn; and a combination of thermoplastic and
non-thermoplastic yarns. After being heated to the melting
temperature, the thermoplastic yarn fuses with the
non-thermoplastic yarn (e.g. polyester or nylon), stiffening the
textile material. In order to improve the bond between the
thermoplastic material and the yarn, the yarn's surface is
texturized. The thermoplastic material melts at least partially in
the process and fuses with the yarn. After pressing, the
embroidered structure 200 is cooled so that the bond is hardened
and fixed.
[0063] The strands of the crossing yarns 205 may possess any
dimensions (size/shape) suitable for their described purpose. The
density of the stitches 225 may also be selected to modify the
characteristics of the upper. For example, areas with relatively
high concentrations of stitches 225 may flex to a lesser degree
than areas with relatively low concentrations of stitches.
Similarly, areas with relatively high concentrations of stitches
may be less air-permeable than areas with relatively low
concentrations of stitches.
[0064] The athletic footwear includes running shoes, baseball
shoes, basketball shoes, cross-training shoes, cycling shoes,
football shoes, tennis shoes, soccer shoes, walking shoes, and
hiking boots, etc. Footwear styles may further include non-athletic
styles such as dress shoes, loafers, sandals, etc.
[0065] The embroidered structure 200 may be formed utilizing any
suitable embroidery apparatus or process, whether by machine or
hand. In machine embroidery, a variety of conventional embroidery
machines may be utilized to form embroidered structure 200, and the
embroidery machines may be programmed to embroider specific
patterns or designs from one or a plurality of threads. In general,
an embroidery machine forms patterns or designs by repeatedly
securing a thread to various locations such that portions of the
thread extend between the locations and are visible. Conventional
embroidery machines may form patterns or designs on temporary
substrate by forming satin-stitches, running-stitches, or
fill-stitches, each of which may utilize a lock-stitch to secure
thread to base layer. Satin-stitches are a series of zigzag-shaped
stitches formed closely together. Running-stitches extend between
two points and are often used for fine details, outlining, and
underlay. Fill-stitches are series of running stitches formed
closely together to form different patterns and stitch directions,
and fill-stitches are often utilized to cover relatively large
areas.
[0066] Thus, it is intended that the present invention covers the
modifications and variations of this invention provided they come
within the scope of the appended claims and their equivalents. It
is to be understood that terms such as "top", "bottom", "front",
"rear", "side", "height", "length", "width", "upper", "lower",
"interior", "exterior", and the like as may be used herein, merely
describe points of reference and do not limit the present invention
to any particular orientation or configuration.
* * * * *