U.S. patent application number 14/730303 was filed with the patent office on 2015-09-24 for cosmetic compositions comprising cyanodiphenylacrylates.
The applicant listed for this patent is ELC Management LLC. Invention is credited to Mirela Cristina Ionita-Manzatu, Linda Josephine Najdek, Milanka Susak, Ismail Ahmed Syed.
Application Number | 20150265512 14/730303 |
Document ID | / |
Family ID | 43050744 |
Filed Date | 2015-09-24 |
United States Patent
Application |
20150265512 |
Kind Code |
A1 |
Susak; Milanka ; et
al. |
September 24, 2015 |
Cosmetic Compositions Comprising Cyanodiphenylacrylates
Abstract
A composition comprising at least one
.alpha.-cyanodiphenylacrylate and inactivated bacterial lysates of
Bifido bacterium.
Inventors: |
Susak; Milanka; (North York,
CA) ; Syed; Ismail Ahmed; (Glen Oaks, NY) ;
Najdek; Linda Josephine; (East Islip, NY) ;
Ionita-Manzatu; Mirela Cristina; (Old Bethpage, NY) |
|
Applicant: |
Name |
City |
State |
Country |
Type |
ELC Management LLC |
New York |
NY |
US |
|
|
Family ID: |
43050744 |
Appl. No.: |
14/730303 |
Filed: |
June 4, 2015 |
Related U.S. Patent Documents
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Application
Number |
Filing Date |
Patent Number |
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13266578 |
Feb 6, 2012 |
9095543 |
|
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PCT/US2010/032677 |
Apr 28, 2010 |
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14730303 |
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Current U.S.
Class: |
424/60 ;
424/63 |
Current CPC
Class: |
A61K 8/40 20130101; A61K
8/66 20130101; A61Q 17/04 20130101; A61K 8/891 20130101; A61K
2800/52 20130101; A61K 8/27 20130101; A61K 8/894 20130101; A61K
8/893 20130101; A61Q 1/02 20130101; A61K 31/12 20130101; A61K 8/29
20130101; A61Q 19/001 20130101; A61Q 1/10 20130101; A61Q 1/06
20130101; A61Q 19/00 20130101; A61K 8/062 20130101; A61K 8/064
20130101; A61K 2800/85 20130101; A61P 17/00 20180101 |
International
Class: |
A61K 8/40 20060101
A61K008/40; A61K 8/29 20060101 A61K008/29; A61K 8/27 20060101
A61K008/27; A61K 8/99 20060101 A61K008/99; A61K 8/66 20060101
A61K008/66 |
Claims
1. A topical composition comprising at least one
.alpha.-cyanodiphenylacrylate and inactivated bacterial lysates of
Bifido bacterium.
2. The composition of claim 1 wherein the
.alpha.-cyanodiphenylacrylate has the general formula: ##STR00024##
wherein R.sub.1 and R.sub.2 are each independently straight or
branched chain C.sub.1-30 alkoxy; any non-alkoxy R.sub.1 or R.sub.2
radical is hydrogen; and R.sub.3 is a straight or branched chain
C.sub.1-30 alkyl.
3. The composition of claim 4 wherein R.sub.1 and R.sub.2 are each
independently C.sub.1-8, and any non-alkoxy radical R.sub.1 or
R.sub.2 is hydrogen; and R.sub.3 is a straight of branched chain
C.sub.2-20 alkyl.
4. The composition of claim 5 wherein R1 and R2 are each
independently methoxy, and any non-methoxy R.sub.1 or R.sub.2 is
hydrogen; and R.sub.3 is a C.sub.2-20 alkyl.
5. The composition of claim 1 wherein the
.alpha.-cyanodiphenylacrylate is ethylhexylmethoxycrylene.
6. The composition of claim 1 wherein the inactivated bacterial
lysate of Bifido bacterium is fermented.
7. The composition of claim 1 wherein the inactivated bacterial
lysate of Bifido bacterium is Bifida lysate.
8. The composition of claim 6 wherein the fermented inactivated
bacterial lysate of Bifido bacterium is Bifida ferment lysate.
9. The composition of claim 1 additionally comprising at least one
DNA repair enzyme.
10. The composition of claim 9 wherein the DNA repair enzyme is
selected from the group consisting of Lactobacillus ferment,
Arabidopsis thaliana extract, Micrococcus lysate, and mixtures
thereof.
11. The composition of claim 1 additionally comprising a chemical
or physical sunscreen.
12. The composition of claim 11 wherein the physical sunscreen is
zinc oxide, titanium dioxide, or mixtures thereof.
13. The composition of claim 11 wherein the chemical sunscreen is
selected from the group consisting of Avobenzone, octisalate,
terephthalylidene dicamphor sulfonic acid, Octocrylene,
4-methylbenzylidene camphor, Cinoxate, Benzophenone-3,
octylmethoxycinnamate, and mixtures thereof.
Description
TECHNICAL FIELD
[0001] The invention is in the field of compositions for
application to keratinous surfaces for coloring, conditioning, or
treating the keratinous surface for improvement.
BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION
[0002] There are many problems in formulating topical compositions.
In order to be commercially acceptable, the composition must be
stable. No matter how efficacious a product is, the product will
not be commercially acceptable if it separates or otherwise
deteriorates under normal shipping and storage conditions prior to
sale. In addition, when compositions applied to the skin are meant
to form a film, it is important that the film formed be relatively
homogeneous on the skin. One criterion for assessing the adequacy
of a film formed on skin is spreadability, which means that when a
composition is applied to skin it should spread onto the skin to
form a relatively even film. This is particularly important when it
comes to color cosmetics and sunscreens. Obviously a sun bather
does not want to apply a sunscreen film that leaves gaps in
coverage, nor does a consumer want to apply a lipstick that does
not evenly color the lips. It is believed that spreadability and
relatively homogeneous film formation on skin is improved when the
composition is formulated with ingredients that improve
dispersibility of various components such as particulates, oils,
and polymers, in the composition.
[0003] Cyanodiphenylacrylates are generally known for enhancing SPF
when incorporated into sunscreens. U.S. Patent Publication
2009/0039323A1 teaches that certain .alpha.-cyanodiphenylacrylates
act by accepting the triplet excited state energy generated by
organic sunscreens such as Avobenzone when it is exposed to certain
environmental conditions. The end result is that the excess energy
formed by the unstable Avobenzone is then dissipated and does not
result in an unstable ingredient that compromises the stability of
the formula. However, cosmetic formulators must combine more than
cyanodiphenylacrylates and organic sunscreens to make a
commercially acceptable cosmetic formula, particularly when it may
contain other ingredients. One formulation concern is aesthetics.
No matter how efficacious a product is, consumers will not buy it
if it is aesthetically unpleasant when applied to skin. In order to
improve aesthetics, cosmetic formulators use light, dry oils such
as silicones. Silicones provide aesthetically pleasing cosmetic
formulas but contribute to certain disadvantages when it comes to
film formation on skin. In particular, cosmetics containing
silicone may provide uneven film formation on skin surfaces. This
is an obvious disadvantage when formulating products such as
sunscreens, where an even film on skin is desired.
[0004] It has been found that in addition to its SPF enhancing
capability, certain .alpha.-cyanodiphenylacrylates, despite their
lipophilic character, are excellent dispersants for cosmetic
ingredients, including those that are polar or that may contain
both lipophilic and hydrophilic moieties. The combination of
.alpha.-cyanodiphenylacrylates with oxyalkylenated organosiloxanes
is particularly effective in forming topical cosmetic products that
provide a spreadable, smooth and even film when applied to skin.
Most unexpectedly, the .alpha.-cyanodiphenylacrylates are
compatible with both silicones and organosiloxane emulsifiers,
enabling formation of composition that provide a smooth and even
film on skin where the ingredients present are dispersed in the
composition. When dispersion of cosmetic ingredients is optimized
the composition exhibits maximum effectiveness in forming a film on
skin, improving SPF protection, and providing commercially
acceptable aesthetics.
SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION
[0005] The invention is directed to a topical composition
comprising at least one .alpha.-cyanodiphenylacrylate and at least
one oxyalkylenated organosiloxane emulsifier.
[0006] The invention is also directed to a method for stabilizing a
composition comprising formulating said composition at least one
.alpha.-cyanodiphenylacrylate and at least one oxyalkylenated
organosiloxane emulsifier.
DETAILED DESCRIPTION
[0007] The compositions of the invention are topical. They may be
in the aqueous solution or suspension, emulsion, or anhydrous form.
They may be in the form of liquids, solids, or semi-solids at room
temperature (e.g. 25.degree. C.).
I. The .alpha.-Cyanodiphenylacrylate
[0008] The composition of the invention comprises at least one
.alpha.-Cyanodiphenylacrylate. Suggested amounts range from about
0.001 to 60%, preferably from about 0.005 to 50%, more preferably
from about 0.01 to 45%, with all percentages mentioned herein
percentages by weight unless otherwise indicated.
[0009] Preferred is where the .alpha.-Cyanodiphenylacrylate is as
disclosed in U.S. Patent Publication No. 2009/0039323A1, hereby
incorporated by reference in its entirety. The
.alpha.-Cyanodiphenylacrylate may have the general formula:
##STR00001##
wherein R.sub.1 and R.sub.2 are each independently straight or
branched chain C.sub.1-30 alkoxy; any non-alkoxy R.sub.1 or R.sub.2
radical is hydrogen; and R.sub.3 is a straight or branched chain
C.sub.1-30 alkyl.
[0010] Preferred is wherein R.sub.1 and R.sub.2 are each
independently C.sub.1-8, and any non-alkoxy radical R.sub.1 or
R.sub.2 is hydrogen; and R.sub.3 is a straight of branched chain
C.sub.2-20 alkyl.
[0011] More preferred is wherein R.sub.1 and R.sub.2 are each
independently methoxy, and any non-methoxy R.sub.1 or R.sub.2 is
hydrogen; and R.sub.3 is a C.sub.2-20 alkyl.
[0012] Most preferred is wherein the .alpha.-cyanodiphenylacrylate
is ethylhexylmethoxycrylene, or 2-ethylhexyl
2-cyano-3-(4-methoxyphenyl)-3-phenylpropenoate, a liquid that may
be purchased from Hallstar Company under trade name RX-14180.
II. The Oxyalkylenated Organosiloxane Emulsifier
[0013] The oxyalkylenated organosiloxane emulsifier used in the
compositions of the invention may be present in amounts ranging
from about 0.001 to 50%, preferably from about 0.005 to 40%, more
preferably from about 0.01 to 35%. Suitable emulsifiers may be in
the liquid, solid, or semi-solid form, and may be linear or
crosslinked. The organosiloxane emulsifier may be linear or
crosslinked.
[0014] One type of emulsifier that may be used is generically
referred to as dimethicone copolyol or alkyl (e.g. cetyl)
dimethicone copolyol. It may have a Hydrophile/Lipophile Balance
(HLB) ranging from about 2 to 18. Preferably it is nonionic, having
an HLB ranging from about 2 to 12, preferably about 2 to 10, most
preferably about 4 to 6.
[0015] One type of suitable emulsifier has the general formula:
##STR00002##
[0016] wherein p is 0-40 (the range including all numbers between
and subranges such as 2, 3, 4, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, etc.), and
PE is (--C.sub.2H.sub.4O).sub.a--(--C.sub.3H.sub.6O).sub.b--H
wherein a is 0 to 25, b is 0-25 with the proviso that both a and b
cannot be 0 simultaneously, x, y, and z are each independently
ranging from 0 to 1 million with the proviso that x and y cannot be
0 simultaneously. In one preferred embodiment, x, y, z, a, and b
are such that the molecular weight of the polymer ranges from about
5,000 to about 500,000, more preferably from about 10,000 to
100,000, and is most preferably approximately about 50,000 and the
polymer is generically referred to as dimethicone copolyol. One
type of silicone surfactant is wherein p is such that the long
chain alkyl is cetyl or lauryl, and the surfactant is called,
generically, cetyl dimethicone copolyol or lauryl dimethicone
copolyol respectively. In some cases the number of repeating
ethylene oxide or propylene oxide units in the polymer are also
specified, such as a dimethicone copolyol that is also referred to
as PEG-15/PPG-10 dimethicone, which refers to a dimethicone having
substituents containing 15 ethylene glycol units and 10 propylene
glycol units on the siloxane backbone. It is also possible for one
or more of the methyl groups in the above general structure to be
substituted with a longer chain alkyl (e.g. ethyl, propyl, butyl,
etc.) or ether, such as methyl ether, ethyl ether, propyl ether,
butyl ether, and the like.
[0017] Another type of organosiloxane emulsifier has the general
formula:
##STR00003##
wherein each n is independently 0-100 with the proviso that there
must be at least one PE radical. More preferred is where each n
independently ranges from about 2 to 30, and PE
(--C.sub.2H.sub.4O).sub.a--(--C.sub.3H.sub.6O).sub.b--H wherein a
is 0 to 25, b is 0-25 with the proviso that both a and b cannot
simultaneously be 0; and wherein x, y, and z are each independently
0 to 1,000,000 with the proviso that there is at least one PE. More
preferred is where the ingredient is Lauryl PEG-9
Polydimethylsiloxyethyl Dimethicone, having the formula:
##STR00004##
[0018] Further examples of organosiloxane emulsifiers include those
having C.T.F.A. names Bis-Butyldimethicone Polyglyceryl-3;
Bis-PEG/PPG-14/14 Dimethicone; Bis-butyldimethicone Polyglyceryl-3;
Bis-isobutyl PEG/PPG-10/7 Dimethicone copolymer; Bis-PEG/PPG-18/6
Dimethicone; Bis-PEG/PPG-20/20 Dimethicone; Bis-PEG/PPG-16/16
PEG/PPG-16/16 Dimethicone; Bis(PPG-7 Undeceneth-21-Dimethicone;
Cetyl Dimethicone PEG-7 Acetate; Cetyl PEG-8 Dimethicone; Cetyl
PEG/PPG-15/16 Butyl Ether Dimethicone; Cetyl PEG/PPG-15/15 Butyl
Ether Dimethicone; Cetyl PEG/PPG-7/3 Dimethicone; Cetyl
PEG/PPG-10/1 Dimethicone; Dimethicone PEG-15 Acetate; Dimethicone
PEG-7 Cocoate; Dimethicone PEG-7 Phosphate; Dimethicone PEG-10
Phosphate; Dimethicone PEG/PPG-7/4 Phosphate; Dimethicone
PEG/PPG-12/4 Phosphate; Dimethicone PEG-7 Undecylenate; Lauryl
Dimethicone PEG-10 Phosphate; Isopolyglyceryl-3 Dimethicone;
Isopolyglyceryl-3 Dimethiconol; Isostearyl Carboxyldecyl PEG-8
Dimethicone; Lauryl Methicone PEG-10 Phosphate; Lauryl PEG-8
Dimethicone; Lauryl PEG-10 Methyl Ether Dimethicone; Lauryl
PEG/PPG-18/18 Methicone; PEG-6 Methyl Ether Dimethicone; PEG-7
Methyl Ether Dimethicone; PEG-9 Methyl Ether Dimethicone; PEG-10
Methyl Ether Dimethicone; PEG-11 Methyl Ether Dimethicone; PEG-11
Methyl Ether Dimethicone; PEG-32 Methyl Ether Dimethicone;
PEG-PEG/PPG-28/21 Acetate Dimethicone; PEG/PPG-22/22 Butyl Ether
Dimethicone; PEG/PPG-23/23 Butyl Ether Dimethicone; PEG/PPG-24/18
Butyl Ether Dimethicone; PEG/PPG-3/10 Dimethicone; PEG/PPG-4/12
Dimethicone; PEG/PPG-6/11 Dimethicone; PEG/PPG-8/14 Dimethicone;
PEG/PPG-12/16 Dimethicone; PEG/PPG-12/18 Dimethicone; PEG/PPG-14/4
Dimethicone; PEG/PPG-15/5 Dimethicone; PEG/PPG-15/15 Dimethicone;
PEG/PPG-16/2 Dimethicone; PEG/PPG-16/8 Dimethicone; PEG/PPG-17/18
Dimethicone; PEG/PPG-18/12 Dimethicone; PEG/PPG-19/19 Dimethicone;
PEG/PPG-20/6 Dimethicone; PEG/PPG-20/15 Dimethicone; PEG/PPG-20/20
Dimethicone; PEG/PPG-20/29 Dimethicone; PEG/PPG-22/23 Dimethicone;
PEG/PPG-22/24 Dimethicone; PEG/PPG-25/25 Dimethicone; PEG/PPG-27/27
Dimethicone; PEG/PPG-30/10 Dimethicone; PEG/PPG-10/3 Oleyl Ether
Dimethicone; PEG-8 trisiloxane; Polyglyceryl-3
Polydimethylsiloxyethyl Dimethicone; PPG-12 Butyl Ether
Dimethicone; Silicone Quaternium-17; TEA-Dimethicone PEG-7
Phosphate; or mixtures thereof.
[0019] Further examples of commercial linear organosiloxane
emulsifiers are those sold by Dow Corning under the tradename Dow
Corning 3225C Formulation Aid having the CTFA name
cyclotetrasiloxane (and) cyclopentasiloxane (and) PEG/PPG-18
dimethicone; or 5225C Formulation Aid, having the CTFA name
cyclopentasiloxane (and) PEG/PPG-18/18 dimethicone; or Dow Corning
190 Surfactant having the CTFA name PEG/PPG-18/18 dimethicone; or
Dow Corning 193 Fluid, Dow Corning 5200 having the CTFA name lauryl
PEG/PPG-18/18 methicone; or Abil EM 90 having the CTFA name cetyl
PEG/PPG-14/14 dimethicone sold by Goldschmidt; or Abil EM 97 having
the CTFA name bis-cetyl PEG/PPG-14/14 dimethicone sold by
Goldschmidt; or Abil WE 09 having the CTFA name cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1
dimethicone in a mixture also containing polyglyceryl-4 isostearate
and hexyl laurate; or KF-6011 sold by Shin-Etsu Silicones having
the CTFA name PEG-11 methyl ether dimethicone; KF-6012 sold by
Shin-Etsu Silicones having the CTFA name PEG/PPG-20/22 butyl ether
dimethicone; or KF-6013 sold by Shin-Etsu Silicones having the CTFA
name PEG-9 dimethicone; or KF-6015 sold by Shin-Etsu Silicones
having the CTFA name PEG-3 dimethicone; or KF-6016 sold by
Shin-Etsu Silicones having the CTFA name PEG-9 methyl ether
dimethicone; or KF-6017 sold by Shin-Etsu Silicones having the CTFA
name PEG-10 dimethicone; or KF-6038 sold by Shin-Etsu Silicones
having the CTFA name lauryl PEG-9 polydimethylsiloxyethyl
dimethicone.
[0020] Also suitable are various types of fully or partially
crosslinked oxyalkylenated organosiloxane emulsifiers. They may be
elastomeric or non-elastomeric. They are sometimes referred to as
"emulsifying elastomers" because of they have both elastomeric and
emulsifying properties.
[0021] Elastomers are generally prepared by a crosslinking addition
reaction of diorganopolysiloxane comprising at least one hydrogen
bonded to silicon and of a polyoxyalkylene comprising at least two
ethylenically unsaturated groups. In at least one embodiment, the
polyoxyalkylenated crosslinked organo-polysiloxanes are obtained by
a crosslinking addition reaction of a diorganopolysiloxane
comprising at least two hydrogens each bonded to a silicon, and a
polyoxyalkylene comprising at least two ethylenically unsaturated
groups, optionally in the presence of a platinum catalyst, as
described, for example, in U.S. Pat. No. 5,236,986 and U.S. Pat.
No. 5,412,004, U.S. Pat. No. 5,837,793 and U.S. Pat. No. 5,811,487,
the contents of which are incorporated by reference in their
entirety.
[0022] Polyoxyalkylenated silicone elastomers that may be used in
at least one embodiment of the invention include those sold by
Shin-Etsu Silicones under the names KSG-21, KSG-20, KSG-30, KSG-31,
KSG-32, KSG-33; KSG-210 which is dimethicone/PEG-10/15 crosspolymer
dispersed in dimethicone; KSG-310 which is PEG-15 lauryl
dimethicone crosspolymer; KSG-320 which is PEG-15 lauryl
dimethicone crosspolymer dispersed in isododecane; KSG-330 (the
former dispersed in triethylhexanoin), KSG-340 which is a mixture
of PEG-10 lauryl dimethicone crosspolymer and PEG-15 lauryl
dimethicone crosspolymer.
[0023] Also suitable are polyglycerolated silicone elastomers like
those disclosed in PCT/WO 2004/024798, which is hereby incorporated
by reference in its entirety. Such elastomers include Shin-Etsu's
KSG series, such as KSG-710 which is dimethicone/polyglycerin-3
crosspolymer dispersed in dimethicone; or lauryl
dimethicone/polyglycerin-3 crosspolymer dispersed in a variety of
solvent such as isododecane, dimethicone, triethylhexanoin, sold
under the Shin-Etsu tradenames KSG-810, KSG-820, KSG-830, or
KSG-840. Also suitable are silicones sold by Dow Corning under the
tradenames 9010 and DC9011.
[0024] One preferred crosslinked silicone elastomer emulsifier is
dimethicone/PEG-10/15 crosspolymer, which provides excellent
aesthetics due to its elastomeric backbone, but also excellent
emulsification properties.
[0025] Further examples of crosslinked organosiloxane emulsifiers
include, but are not limited to Dimethicone/dimethicone PEG/PPG 15
crosspolymer; Dimethicone PEG-10 crosspolymer; Dimethicone
PEG-10/15 Crosspolymer; Dimethicone PEG-15 Crosspolymer;
Dimethicone Polyglycerin-3 Crosspolymer; Dimethicone PPG-20
Crosspolymer; Dimethiconol/Methylsilanol/Silicate Crosspolymer;
Dimethiconol/Silicate Crosspolymer; Lauryl Dimethicone PEG-15
Crosspolymer; Lauryl Dimethicone Polyglycerin-3 Crosspolymer; PEG-8
Dimethicone Polysorbate-20 Crosspolymer; PEG-10 Dimethicone/Vinyl
Dimethicone Crosspolymer; PEG-10 Lauryl Dimethicone Crosspolymer;
PEG-15/Lauryl Dimethicone Crosspolymer; PEG-15
Laurylpolydimethylsiloxyethyl Crosspolymer; and mixtures
thereof.
[0026] In one preferred embodiment, the composition comprises from
about 0.1 to 25% of the linear organosiloxane emulsifier and from
about 0.1 to 25% of the crosslinked organosiloxane emulsifier.
III. Other Ingredients
[0027] The compositions of the invention may comprise other
ingredients including but not limited to those further set forth
herein.
[0028] A. Oils
[0029] In the event the compositions of the invention are in
anhydrous or emulsion form, the composition will comprise an oil
phase. Oily ingredients are desirable for the skin moisturizing and
protective properties. Suitable oils include silicones, esters,
vegetable oils, synthetic oils, including but not limited to those
set forth herein. The oils may be volatile or nonvolatile, and are
preferably in the form of a pourable liquid at room temperature.
The term "volatile" means that the oil has a measurable vapor
pressure, or a vapor pressure of at least about 2 mm. of mercury at
20.degree. C. The term "nonvolatile" means that the oil has a vapor
pressure of less than about 2 mm. of mercury at 20.degree. C.
[0030] 1. Volatile Oils
[0031] Suitable volatile oils generally have a viscosity ranging
from about 0.5 to 5 centistokes 25.degree. C. and include linear
silicones, cyclic silicones, paraffinic hydrocarbons, or mixtures
thereof. Volatile oils may be used to promote more rapid drying of
the skin care composition after it is applied to skin. Volatile
oils are more desirable when the skin care products containing the
cyanodiphenylacrylate are being formulated for consumers that have
combination or oily skin, or for indications where a heavy, greasy
film on skin is undesirable.
[0032] (a). Volatile Silicones
[0033] Cyclic silicones are one type of volatile silicone that may
be used in the composition. Such silicones have the general
formula:
##STR00005##
where n=3-6, preferably 4, 5, or 6.
[0034] Also suitable are linear volatile silicones, for example,
those having the general formula:
(CH.sub.3).sub.3Si--O--[Si(CH.sub.3).sub.2--O].sub.n--Si(CH.sub.3).sub.3
where n=0, 1, 2, 3, 4, or 5, preferably 0, 1, 2, 3, or 4.
[0035] Cyclic and linear volatile silicones are available from
various commercial sources including Dow Corning Corporation and
General Electric. The Dow Corning linear volatile silicones are
sold under the tradenames Dow Corning 244, 245, 344, and 200
fluids. These fluids include hexamethyldisiloxane (viscosity 0.65
centistokes (abbreviated cst)), octamethyltrisiloxane (1.0 cst),
decamethyltetrasiloxane (1.5 cst), dodecamethylpentasiloxane (2
cst) and mixtures thereof, with all viscosity measurements being at
25.degree. C.
[0036] Suitable branched volatile silicones include alkyl
trimethicones such as methyl trimethicone, a branched volatile
silicone having the general formula:
##STR00006##
[0037] Methyl trimethicone may be purchased from Shin-Etsu
Silicones under the tradename TMF-1.5, having a viscosity of 1.5
centistokes at 25.degree. C.
[0038] (b). Volatile Paraffinic Hydrocarbons
[0039] Also suitable as the volatile oils are various straight or
branched chain paraffinic hydrocarbons having 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10,
11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, or 20 carbon atoms, more
preferably 8 to 16 carbon atoms. Suitable hydrocarbons include
pentane, hexane, heptane, decane, dodecane, tetradecane, tridecane,
and C.sub.8-20 isoparaffins as disclosed in U.S. Pat. Nos.
3,439,088 and 3,818,105, both of which are hereby incorporated by
reference. Preferred volatile paraffinic hydrocarbons have a
molecular weight of 70-225, preferably 160 to 190 and a boiling
point range of 30 to 320, preferably 60 to 260.degree. C., and a
viscosity of less than about 10 cst. at 25.degree. C. Such
paraffinic hydrocarbons are available from EXXON under the ISOPARS
trademark, and from the Permethyl Corporation. Suitable C.sub.12
isoparaffins are manufactured by Permethyl Corporation under the
tradename Permethyl 99A. Various C.sub.16 isoparaffins commercially
available, such as isohexadecane (having the tradename Permethyl
R), are also suitable.
[0040] 2. Non-Volatile Oils
[0041] A variety of nonvolatile oils are also suitable for use in
the compositions of the invention. The nonvolatile oils generally
have a viscosity of greater than about 5 to 10 centistokes at
25.degree. C., and may range in viscosity up to about 1,000,000
centipoise at 25.degree. C. Examples of nonvolatile oils include,
but are not limited to: [0042] (a). Esters
[0043] Suitable esters are mono-, di-, and triesters. The
composition may comprise one or more esters selected from the
group, or mixtures thereof.
[0044] (ii). Monoesters
[0045] Monoesters are defined as esters formed by the reaction of a
monocarboxylic acid having the formula R--COOH, wherein R is a
straight or branched chain saturated or unsaturated alkyl having 2
to 45 carbon atoms, or phenyl; and an alcohol having the formula
R--OH wherein R is a straight or branched chain saturated or
unsaturated alkyl having 2-30 carbon atoms, or phenyl. Both the
alcohol and the acid may be substituted with one or more hydroxyl
groups. Either one or both of the acid or alcohol may be a "fatty"
acid or alcohol, and may have from about 6 to 30 carbon atoms, more
preferably 12, 14, 16, 18, or 22 carbon atoms in straight or
branched chain, saturated or unsaturated form. Examples of
monoester oils that may be used in the compositions of the
invention include hexyl laurate, butyl isostearate, hexadecyl
isostearate, cetyl palmitate, isostearyl neopentanoate, stearyl
heptanoate, isostearyl isononanoate, steary lactate, stearyl
octanoate, stearyl stearate, isononyl isononanoate, and so on.
[0046] (ii). Diesters
[0047] Suitable diesters are the reaction product of a dicarboxylic
acid and an aliphatic or aromatic alcohol or an aliphatic or
aromatic alcohol having at least two substituted hydroxyl groups
and a monocarboxylic acid. The dicarboxylic acid may contain from 2
to 30 carbon atoms, and may be in the straight or branched chain,
saturated or unsaturated form. The dicarboxylic acid may be
substituted with one or more hydroxyl groups. The aliphatic or
aromatic alcohol may also contain 2 to 30 carbon atoms, and may be
in the straight or branched chain, saturated, or unsaturated form.
Preferably, one or more of the acid or alcohol is a fatty acid or
alcohol, i.e. contains 12-22 carbon atoms. The dicarboxylic acid
may also be an alpha hydroxy acid. The ester may be in the dimer or
trimer form. Examples of diester oils that may be used in the
compositions of the invention include diisotearyl malate, neopentyl
glycol dioctanoate, dibutyl sebacate, dicetearyl dimer dilinoleate,
dicetyl adipate, diisocetyl adipate, diisononyl adipate,
diisostearyl dimer dilinoleate, diisostearyl fumarate, diisostearyl
malate, dioctyl malate, and so on.
[0048] (iii). Triesters
[0049] Suitable triesters comprise the reaction product of a
tricarboxylic acid and an aliphatic or aromatic alcohol or
alternatively the reaction product of an aliphatic or aromatic
alcohol having three or more substituted hydroxyl groups with a
monocarboxylic acid. As with the mono- and diesters mentioned
above, the acid and alcohol contain 2 to 30 carbon atoms, and may
be saturated or unsaturated, straight or branched chain, and may be
substituted with one or more hydroxyl groups. Preferably, one or
more of the acid or alcohol is a fatty acid or alcohol containing
12 to 22 carbon atoms. Examples of triesters include esters of
arachidonic, citric, or behenic acids, such as triarachidin,
tributyl citrate, triisostearyl citrate, tri C.sub.12-13 alkyl
citrate, tricaprylin, tricaprylyl citrate, tridecyl behenate,
trioctyldodecyl citrate, tridecyl behenate; or tridecyl cocoate,
tridecyl isononanoate, and so on.
[0050] Esters suitable for use in the composition are further
described in the C.T.F.A. Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and
Handbook, Eleventh Edition, 2006, under the classification of
"Esters", the text of which is hereby incorporated by reference in
its entirety.
[0051] (b). Hydrocarbon Oils
[0052] It may be desirable to incorporate one or more nonvolatile
hydrocarbon oils into the composition. Suitable nonvolatile
hydrocarbon oils include paraffinic hydrocarbons and olefins,
preferably those having greater than about 20 carbon atoms.
Examples of such hydrocarbon oils include C.sub.24-28 olefins,
C.sub.30-45 olefins, C.sub.20-40 isoparaffins, hydrogenated
polyisobutene, polyisobutene, polydecene, hydrogenated polydecene,
mineral oil, pentahydrosqualene, squalene, squalane, and mixtures
thereof. In one preferred embodiment such hydrocarbons have a
molecular weight ranging from about 300 to 1000 Daltons.
[0053] (c). Glyceryl Esters of Fatty Acids
[0054] Synthetic or naturally occurring glyceryl esters of fatty
acids, or triglycerides, are also suitable for use in the
compositions. Both vegetable and animal sources may be used.
Examples of such oils include castor oil, lanolin oil, C.sub.10-18
triglycerides, caprylic/capric/triglycerides, sweet almond oil,
apricot kernel oil, sesame oil, camelina sativa oil, tamanu seed
oil, coconut oil, corn oil, cottonseed oil, linseed oil, ink oil,
olive oil, palm oil, illipe butter, rapeseed oil, soybean oil,
grapeseed oil, sunflower seed oil, walnut oil, and the like.
[0055] Also suitable are synthetic or semi-synthetic glyceryl
esters, such as fatty acid mono-, di-, and triglycerides which are
natural fats or oils that have been modified, for example, mono-,
di- or triesters of polyols such as glycerin. In an example, a
fatty (C.sub.12-22) carboxylic acid is reacted with one or more
repeating glyceryl groups. glyceryl stearate, diglyceryl
diiosostearate, polyglyceryl-3 isostearate, polyglyceryl-4
isostearate, polyglyceryl-6 ricinoleate, glyceryl dioleate,
glyceryl diisotearate, glyceryl tetraisostearate, glyceryl
trioctanoate, diglyceryl distearate, glyceryl linoleate, glyceryl
myristate, glyceryl isostearate, PEG castor oils, PEG glyceryl
oleates, PEG glyceryl stearates, PEG glyceryl tallowates, and so
on.
[0056] (d). Nonvolatile Silicones
[0057] Nonvolatile silicone oils, both water soluble and water
insoluble, are also suitable for use in the composition. Such
silicones preferably have a viscosity ranging from about greater
than 5 to 800,000 cst, preferably 20 to 200,000 cst at 25.degree.
C. Suitable water insoluble silicones include amine functional
silicones such as amodimethicone.
[0058] For example, such nonvolatile silicones may have the
following general formula:
##STR00007##
wherein R and R' are each independently C.sub.1-30 straight or
branched chain, saturated or unsaturated alkyl, phenyl or aryl,
trialkylsiloxy, and x and y are each independently 1-1,000,000;
with the proviso that there is at least one of either x or y, and A
is alkyl siloxy endcap unit. Preferred is where A is a methyl
siloxy endcap unit; in particular trimethylsiloxy, and R and R' are
each independently a C.sub.1-30 straight or branched chain alkyl,
phenyl, or trimethylsiloxy, more preferably a C.sub.1-22 alkyl,
phenyl, or trimethylsiloxy, most preferably methyl, phenyl, or
trimethylsiloxy, and resulting silicone is dimethicone, phenyl
dimethicone, diphenyl dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, or
trimethylsiloxyphenyl dimethicone. Other examples include alkyl
dimethicones such as cetyl dimethicone, and the like wherein at
least one R is a fatty alkyl (C.sub.12, C.sub.14, C.sub.16,
C.sub.18, C.sub.20, or C.sub.22), and the other R is methyl, and A
is a trimethylsiloxy endcap unit, provided such alkyl dimethicone
is a pourable liquid at room temperature. Phenyl trimethicone can
be purchased from Dow Corning Corporation under the tradename 556
Fluid. Trimethylsiloxyphenyl dimethicone can be purchased from
Wacker-Chemie under the tradename PDM-1000. Cetyl dimethicone, also
referred to as a liquid silicone wax, may be purchased from Dow
Corning as Fluid 2502, or from DeGussa Care & Surface
Specialties under the trade names Abil Wax 9801, or 9814.
[0059] (e). Fluorinated Oils
[0060] Various types of fluorinated oils may also be suitable for
use in the compositions including but not limited to fluorinated
silicones, fluorinated esters, or perfluropolyethers. Particularly
suitable are fluorosilicones such as trimethylsilyl endcapped
fluorosilicone oil, polytrifluoropropylmethylsiloxanes, and similar
silicones such as those disclosed in U.S. Pat. No. 5,118,496 which
is hereby incorporated by reference. Perfluoropolyethers include
those disclosed in U.S. Pat. Nos. 5,183,589, 4,803,067, 5,183,588
all of which are hereby incorporated by reference, which are
commercially available from Montefluos under the trademark
Fomblin.
[0061] C. Aqueous Phase Structuring Agents
[0062] In the case where the compositions are in the form of
aqueous solutions, dispersions or emulsions, in addition to water
the aqueous phase may contain one or more aqueous phase structuring
agents, that is, an agent that increases the viscosity or thickens,
the aqueous phase of the composition. This is particularly
desirable when the composition is in the form of a serum or gel.
The aqueous phase structuring agent should be compatible with the
cyanodiphenylacrylate particularly if the particular
cyanodiphenylacrylate is water soluble, and also compatible with
the other ingredients in the formulation. Suitable ranges of
aqueous phase structuring agent, if present, are from about 0.01 to
30%, preferably from about 0.1 to 20%, more preferably from about
0.5 to 15% by weight of the total composition. Examples of such
agents include various acrylate based thickening agents, natural or
synthetic gums, polysaccharides, and the like, including but not
limited to those set forth below. When the cyanodiphenylacrylate is
in the water soluble form, the aqueous phase thickening agent also
contributes to stabilizing this ingredient in the composition and
improving penetration into the stratum corneum.
[0063] 1. Polysaccharides
[0064] Polysaccharides may be suitable aqueous phase thickening
agents. Examples of such polysaccharides include naturally derived
materials such as agar, agarose, alicaligenes polysaccharides,
algin, alginic acid, acacia gum, amylopectin, chitin, dextran,
cassia gum, cellulose gum, gelatin, gellan gum, hyaluronic acid,
hydroxyethyl cellulose, methyl cellulose, ethyl cellulose, pectin,
sclerotium gum, xanthan gum, pectin, trehelose, gelatin, and so
on.
[0065] 2. Acrylate Polymers
[0066] Also suitable are different types of synthetic polymeric
thickeners. One type includes acrylic polymeric thickeners
comprised of monomers A and B wherein A is selected from the group
consisting of acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, and mixtures thereof;
and B is selected from the group consisting of a C.sub.1-22 alkyl
acrylate, a C.sub.1-22 alky methacrylate, and mixtures thereof are
suitable. In one embodiment the A monomer comprises one or more of
acrylic acid or methacrylic acid, and the B monomer is selected
from the group consisting of a C.sub.1-10, most preferably
C.sub.1-4 alkyl acrylate, a C.sub.1-10, most preferably C.sub.1-4
alkyl methacrylate, and mixtures thereof. Most preferably the B
monomer is one or more of methyl or ethyl acrylate or methacrylate.
The acrylic copolymer may be supplied in an aqueous solution having
a solids content ranging from about 10-60%, preferably 20-50%, more
preferably 25-45% by weight of the polymer, with the remainder
water. The composition of the acrylic copolymer may contain from
about 0.1-99 parts of the A monomer, and about 0.1-99 parts of the
B monomer. Acrylic polymer solutions include those sold by Seppic,
Inc., under the tradename Capigel.
[0067] Also suitable are acrylic polymeric thickeners that are
copolymer of A, B, and C monomers wherein A and B are as defined
above, and C has the general formula:
##STR00008##
wherein Z is --(CH.sub.2).sub.m; wherein m is 1-10, n is 2-3, o is
2-200, and R is a C.sub.10-30 straight or branched chain alkyl.
Examples of the secondary thickening agent above, are copolymers
where A and B are defined as above, and C is CO, and wherein n, o,
and R are as above defined. Examples of such secondary thickening
agents include acrylates/steareth-20 methacrylate copolymer, which
is sold by Rohm & Haas under the tradename Acrysol ICS-1.
[0068] Also suitable are acrylate based anionic amphiphilic
polymers containing at least one hydrophilic unit and at least one
allyl ether unit containing a fatty chain. Preferred are those
where the hydrophilic unit contains an ethylenically unsaturated
anionic monomer, more specifically a vinyl carboxylic acid such as
acrylic acid, methacrylic acid or mixtures thereof, and where the
allyl ether unit containing a fatty chain corresponds to the
monomer of formula
CH.sub.2.dbd.CR'CH.sub.2OB.sub.nR
in which R' denotes H or CH.sub.3, B denotes the ethylenoxy
radical, n is zero or an integer ranging from 1 to 100, R denotes a
hydrocarbon radical selected from alkyl, arylalkyl, aryl, alkylaryl
and cycloalkyl radicals which contain from 8 to 30 carbon atoms,
preferably from 10 to 24, and even more particularly from 12 to 18
carbon atoms. More preferred in this case is where R' denotes H, n
is equal to 10 and R denotes a stearyl (C18) radical. Anionic
amphiphilic polymers of this type are described and prepared in
U.S. Pat. Nos. 4,677,152 and 4,702,844, both of which are hereby
incorporated by reference in their entirety. Among these anionic
amphiphilic polymers, polymers formed of 20 to 60% by weight
acrylic acid and/or methacrylic acid, of 5 to 60% by weight lower
alkyl methacrylates, of 2 to 50% by weight allyl ether containing a
fatty chain as mentioned above, and of 0 to 1% by weight of a
crosslinking agent which is a well-known copolymerizable
polyethylenic unsaturated monomer, for instance diallyl phthalate,
allyl (meth)acrylate, divinylbenzene, (poly)ethylene glycol
dimethacrylate and methylenebisacrylamide. One commercial example
of such polymers are crosslinked terpolymers of methacrylic acid,
of ethyl acrylate, of polyethylene glycol (having 10 EO units)
ether of stearyl alcohol or steareth-10, in particular those sold
by the company Allied Colloids under the names SALCARE SC80 and
SALCARE SC90, which are aqueous emulsions containing 30% of a
crosslinked terpolymer of methacrylic acid, of ethyl acrylate and
of steareth-10 allyl ether (40/50/10).
[0069] Also suitable are acrylate copolymers such as Polyacrylate-3
which is a copolymer of methacrylic acid, methylmethacrylate,
methylstyrene isopropylisocyanate, and PEG-40 behenate monomers;
Polyacrylate-10 which is a copolymer of sodium
acryloyldimethyltaurate, sodium acrylate, acrylamide and vinyl
pyrrolidone monomers; or Polyacrylate-11, which is a copolymer of
sodium acryloyldimethylacryloyldimethyl taurate, sodium acrylate,
hydroxyethyl acrylate, lauryl acrylate, butyl acrylate, and
acrylamide monomers.
[0070] Also suitable are crosslinked acrylate based polymers where
one or more of the acrylic groups may have substituted long chain
alkyl (such as 6-40, 10-30, and the like) groups, for example
acrylates/C.sub.10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer which is a
copolymer of C10-30 alkyl acrylate and one or more monomers of
acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, or one of their simple esters
crosslinked with the allyl ether of sucrose or the allyl ether of
pentaerythritol. Such polymers are commonly sold under the Carbopol
or Pemulen tradenames and have the CTFA name carbomer.
[0071] One type of aqueous phase thickening agent are acrylate
based polymeric thickeners sold by Clariant under the Aristoflex
trademark such as Aristoflex AVC, which is ammonium
acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP copolymer; Aristoflex AVL which is the
same polymer has found in AVC dispersed in mixture containing
caprylic/capric triglyceride, trilaureth-4, and polyglyceryl-2
sesquiisostearate; or Aristoflex HMB which is ammonium
acryloyldimethyltaurate/beheneth-25 methacrylate crosspolymer, and
the like.
[0072] 3. High Molecular Weight PEG or Polyglycerins
[0073] Also suitable as the aqueous phase thickening agents are
various polyethylene glycols (PEG) derivatives where the degree of
polymerization ranges from 1,000 to 200,000. Such ingredients are
indicated by the designation "PEG" followed by the degree of
polymerization in thousands, such as PEG-45M, which means PEG
having 45,000 repeating ethylene oxide units. Examples of suitable
PEG derivatives include PEG 2M, 5M, 7M, 9M, 14M, 20M, 23M, 25M,
45M, 65M, 90M, 115M, 160M, 180M, and the like.
[0074] Also suitable are polyglycerins which are repeating glycerin
moieties where the number of repeating moieties ranges from 15 to
200, preferably from about 20-100. Examples of suitable
polyglycerins include those having the CTFA names polyglycerin-20,
polyglycerin-40, and the like.
[0075] D. Oil Phase Structuring Agents
[0076] In the case where the composition is anhydrous or in the
form of an emulsion, it may be desirable to include one or more oil
phase structuring agents in the cosmetic composition. The term "oil
phase structuring agent" means an ingredient or combination of
ingredients, soluble or dispersible in the oil phase, which will
increase the viscosity, or structure, the oil phase. The oil phase
structuring agent is compatible with the cyanodiphenylacrylate,
particularly if the cyanodiphenylacrylate is soluble in the
nonpolar oils forming the oil phase of the composition. The term
"compatible" means that the oil phase structuring agent and
cyanodiphenylacrylate derivative are capable of being formulated
into a cosmetic product that is generally stable. The structuring
agent may be present in an amount sufficient to provide a liquid
composition with increased viscosity, a semi-solid, or in some
cases a solid composition that may be self-supporting. The
structuring agent itself may be present in the liquid, semi-solid,
or solid form. Suggested ranges of structuring agent are from about
0.01 to 70%, preferably from about 0.05 to 50%, more preferably
from about 0.1-35% by weight of the total composition. Suitable oil
phase structuring agents include those that are silicone based or
organic based. They may be polymers or non-polymers, synthetic,
natural, or a combination of both.
[0077] 1. Silicone Structuring Agents
[0078] A variety of oil phase structuring agents may be silicone
based, such as silicone elastomers, silicone gums, silicone waxes,
linear silicones having a degree of polymerization that provides
the silicone with a degree of viscosity such that when incorporated
into the cosmetic composition it is capable of increasing the
viscosity of the oil phase. Examples of silicone structuring agents
include, but are not limited to:
[0079] (a). Silicone Elastomers
[0080] Silicone elastomers suitable for use in the compositions of
the invention include those that are formed by addition
reaction-curing, by reacting an SiH-containing diorganosiloxane and
an organopolysiloxane having terminal olefinic unsaturation, or an
alpha-omega diene hydrocarbon, in the presence of a platinum metal
catalyst. Such elastomers may also be formed by other reaction
methods such as condensation-curing organopolysiloxane compositions
in the presence of an organotin compound via a dehydrogenation
reaction between hydroxyl-terminated diorganopolysiloxane and
SiH-containing diorganopolysiloxane or alpha omega diene; or by
condensation-curing organopolysiloxane compositions in the presence
of an organotin compound or a titanate ester using a condensation
reaction between an hydroxyl-terminated diorganopolysiloxane and a
hydrolysable organosiloxane; peroxide-curing organopolysiloxane
compositions which thermally cure in the presence of an
organoperoxide catalyst.
[0081] One type of elastomer that may be suitable is prepared by
addition reaction-curing an organopolysiloxane having at least 2
lower alkenyl groups in each molecule or an alpha-omega diene; and
an organopolysiloxane having at least 2 silicon-bonded hydrogen
atoms in each molecule; and a platinum-type catalyst. While the
lower alkenyl groups such as vinyl, can be present at any position
in the molecule, terminal olefinic unsaturation on one or both
molecular terminals is preferred. The molecular structure of this
component may be straight chain, branched straight chain, cyclic,
or network. These organopolysiloxanes are exemplified by
methylvinylsiloxanes, methylvinylsiloxane-dimethylsiloxane
copolymers, dimethylvinylsiloxy-terminated dimethylpolysiloxanes,
dimethylvinylsiloxy-terminated
dimethylsiloxane-methylphenylsiloxane copolymers,
dimethylvinylsiloxy-terminated
dimethylsiloxane-diphenylsiloxane-methylvinylsiloxane copolymers,
trimethylsiloxy-terminated dimethylsiloxane-methylvinylsiloxane
copolymers, trimethylsiloxy-terminated
dimethylsiloxane-methylphenylsiloxane-methylvinylsiloxane
copolymers, dimethylvinylsiloxy-terminated
methyl(3,3,3-trifluoropropyl)polysiloxanes, and
dimethylvinylsiloxy-terminated
dimethylsiloxane-methyl(3,3-trifluoropropyl)siloxane copolymers,
decadiene, octadiene, heptadiene, hexadiene, pentadiene, or
tetradiene, or tridiene.
[0082] Curing proceeds by the addition reaction of the
silicon-bonded hydrogen atoms in the dimethyl methylhydrogen
siloxane, with the siloxane or alpha-omega diene under catalysis
using the catalyst mentioned herein. To form a highly crosslinked
structure, the methyl hydrogen siloxane must contain at least 2
silicon-bonded hydrogen atoms in each molecule in order to optimize
function as a crosslinker.
[0083] The catalyst used in the addition reaction of silicon-bonded
hydrogen atoms and alkenyl groups, and is concretely exemplified by
chloroplatinic acid, possibly dissolved in an alcohol or ketone and
this solution optionally aged, chloroplatinic acid-olefin
complexes, chloroplatinic acid-alkenylsiloxane complexes,
chloroplatinic acid-diketone complexes, platinum black, and
carrier-supported platinum.
[0084] Examples of suitable silicone elastomers for use in the
compositions of the invention may be in the powder form, or
dispersed or solubilized in solvents such as volatile or
non-volatile silicones, or silicone compatible vehicles such as
paraffinic hydrocarbons or esters. Examples of silicone elastomer
powders include vinyl dimethicone/methicone silesquioxane
crosspolymers like Shin-Etsu's KSP-100, KSP-101, KSP-102, KSP-103,
KSP-104, KSP-105, hybrid silicone powders that contain a
fluoroalkyl group like Shin-Etsu's KSP-200 which is a
fluoro-silicone elastomer, and hybrid silicone powders that contain
a phenyl group such as Shin-Etsu's KSP-300, which is a phenyl
substituted silicone elastomer; and Dow Corning's DC 9506. Examples
of silicone elastomer powders dispersed in a silicone compatible
vehicle include dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone crosspolymers
supplied by a variety of suppliers including Dow Corning
Corporation under the tradenames 9040 or 9041, GE Silicones under
the tradename SFE 839, or Shin-Etsu Silicones under the tradenames
KSG-15, 16, 18. KSG-15 has the CTFA name
cyclopentasiloxane/dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer.
KSG-18 has the INCI name phenyl trimethicone/dimethicone/phenyl
vinyl dimethicone crossoplymer. Silicone elastomers may also be
purchased from Grant Industries under the Gransil trademark. Also
suitable are silicone elastomers having long chain alkyl
substitutions such as lauryl dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone
crosspolymers supplied by Shin Etsu under the tradenames KSG-31,
KSG-32, KSG-41, KSG-42, KSG-43, and KSG-44. Cross-linked
organopolysiloxane elastomers useful in the present invention and
processes for making them are further described in U.S. Pat. No.
4,970,252 to Sakuta et al., issued Nov. 13, 1990; U.S. Pat. No.
5,760,116 to Kilgour et al., issued Jun. 2, 1998; U.S. Pat. No.
5,654,362 to Schulz, Jr. et al. issued Aug. 5, 1997; and Japanese
Patent Application JP 61-18708, assigned to Pola Kasei Kogyo KK,
each of which are herein incorporated by reference in its entirety.
It is particularly desirable to incorporate silicone elastomers
into the compositions of the invention because they provide
excellent "feel" to the composition, are very stable in cosmetic
formulations, and relatively inexpensive.
[0085] (b). Silicone Gums
[0086] Also suitable for use as an oil phase structuring agent are
one or more silicone gums. The term "gum" means a silicone polymer
having a degree of polymerization sufficient to provide a silicone
having a gum-like texture. In certain cases the silicone polymer
forming the gum may be crosslinked. The silicone gum typically has
a viscosity ranging from about 500,000 to 100 million cst at
25.degree. C., preferably from about 600,000 to 20 million, more
preferably from about 600,000 to 12 million cst. All ranges
mentioned herein include all subranges, e.g. 550,000; 925,000; 3.5
million.
[0087] The silicone gums that are used in the compositions include,
but are not limited to, those of the general formula wherein:
##STR00009##
R.sub.1 to R.sub.9 are each independently an alkyl having 1 to 30
carbon atoms, aryl, or aralkyl; and X is OH or a C.sub.1-30 alkyl,
or vinyl; and wherein x, y, or z may be zero with the proviso that
no more than two of x, y, or z are zero at any one time, and
further that x, y, and z are such that the silicone gum has a
viscosity of at least about 500,000 cst, ranging up to about 100
million centistokes at 25.degree. C. Preferred is where R is methyl
or OH.
[0088] Such silicone gums may be purchased in pure form from a
variety of silicone manufacturers including Wacker-Chemie or Dow
Corning, and the like. Such silicone gums include those sold by
Wacker-Belsil under the trade names CM3092, Wacker-Belsil 1000, or
Wacker-Belsil DM 3096. A silicone gum where X is OH, also referred
to as dimethiconol, is available from Dow Corning Corporation under
the trade name 1401. The silicone gum may also be purchased in the
form of a solution or dispersion in a silicone compatible vehicle
such as volatile or nonvolatile silicone. An example of such a
mixture may be purchased from Barnet Silicones under the HL-88
tradename, having the INCI name dimethicone. [0089] (c). Silicone
Waxes
[0090] Another type of oily phase structuring agent includes
silicone waxes that are typically referred to as alkyl silicone
waxes which are semi-solids or solids at room temperature. The term
"alkyl silicone wax" means a polydimethylsiloxane having a
substituted long chain alkyl (such as C16 to 30) that confers a
semi-solid or solid property to the siloxane. Examples of such
silicone waxes include stearyl dimethicone, which may be purchased
from DeGussa Care & Surface Specialties under the tradename
Abil Wax 9800 or from Dow Corning under the tradename 2503. Another
example is bis-stearyl dimethicone, which may be purchased from
Gransil Industries under the tradename Gransil A-18, or behenyl
dimethicone, behenoxy dimethicone.
[0091] (d). Polyamides or Silicone Polyamides
[0092] Also suitable as oil phase structuring agents are various
types of polymeric compounds such as polyamides or silicone
polyamides.
[0093] The term silicone polyamide means a polymer comprised of
silicone monomers and monomers containing amide groups as further
described herein. The silicone polyamide preferably comprises
moieties of the general formula:
##STR00010##
X is a linear or branched alkylene having from about 1-30 carbon
atoms; R.sub.1, R.sub.2, R.sub.3, and R.sub.4 are each
independently C.sub.1-30 straight or branched chain alkyl which may
be substituted with one or more hydroxyl or halogen groups; phenyl
which may be substituted with one or more C.sub.1-30 alkyl groups,
halogen, hydroxyl, or alkoxy groups; or a siloxane chain having the
general formula:
##STR00011##
and Y is:
[0094] (a) a linear or branched alkylene having from about 1-40
carbon atoms which may be substituted with: [0095] (i) one or more
amide groups having the general formula R.sub.1CONR.sub.1, or
[0096] (ii) C.sub.5-6 cyclic ring, or [0097] (iii) phenylene which
may be substituted with one or more C.sub.1-10 alkyl groups, or
[0098] (iv) hydroxy, or [0099] (v) C.sub.3-8 cycloalkane, or [0100]
(vi) C.sub.1-20 alkyl which may be substituted with one or more
hydroxy groups, or [0101] (vii) C.sub.1-10 alkyl amines; or [0102]
(b) TR.sub.5R.sub.6R.sub.7 [0103] wherein R.sub.5, R.sub.6, and
R.sub.7, are each independently a C.sub.1-10 linear or branched
alkylenes, and T is CR.sub.8 wherein R.sub.8 is hydrogen, a
trivalent atom N, P, or Al, or a C.sub.1-30 straight or branched
chain alkyl which may be substituted with one or more hydroxyl or
halogen groups; phenyl which may be substituted with one or more
C.sub.1-30 alkyl groups, halogen, hydroxyl, or alkoxy groups; or a
siloxane chain having the general formula:
##STR00012##
[0104] Preferred is where R.sub.1, R.sub.2, R.sub.3, and R.sub.4
are C.sub.1-10, preferably methyl; and X and Y is a linear or
branched alkylene. linear or branched alkylene. Preferred are
silicone polyamides having the general formula:
##STR00013##
wherein a and b are each independently sufficient to provide a
silicone polyamide polymer having a melting point ranging from
about 60 to 120.degree. C., and a molecular weight ranging from
about 40,000 to 500,000 Daltons. One type of silicone polyamide
that may be used in the compositions of the invention may be
purchased from Dow Corning Corporation under the tradename Dow
Corning 2-8178 gellant which has the CTFA name
nylon-611/dimethicone copolymer which is sold in a composition
containing PPG-3 myristyl ether. Also suitable are polyamides such
as those purchased from Arizona Chemical under the tradenames
Uniclear and Sylvaclear. Such polyamides may be ester terminated or
amide terminated. Examples of ester terminated polyamides include,
but are not limited to those having the general formula:
##STR00014##
wherein n denotes a number of amide units such that the number of
ester groups ranges from about 10% to 50% of the total number of
ester and amide groups; each R.sub.1 is independently an alkyl or
alkenyl group containing at least 4 carbon atoms; each R.sub.2 is
independently a C.sub.4-42 hydrocarbon group, with the proviso that
at least 50% of the R.sub.2 groups are a C30-42 hydrocarbon; each
R.sub.3 is independently an organic group containing at least 2
carbon atoms, hydrogen atoms and optionally one or more oxygen or
nitrogen atoms; and each R.sub.4 is independently a hydrogen atom,
a C.sub.1-10 alkyl group or a direct bond to R.sub.3 or to another
R.sub.4, such that the nitrogen atom to which R.sub.3 and R.sub.4
are both attached forms part of a heterocyclic structure defined by
R.sub.4--N--R.sub.3, with at least 50% of the groups R.sub.4
representing a hydrogen atom.
[0105] General examples of ester and amide terminated polyamides
that may be used as oil phase gelling agents include those sold by
Arizona Chemical under the tradenames Sylvaclear A200V or A2614V,
both having the CTFA name ethylenediamine/hydrogenated dimer
dilinoleate copolymer/bis-di-C.sub.14-18 alkyl amide; Sylvaclear
AF1900V; Sylvaclear C75V having the CTFA name bis-stearyl
ethylenediamine/neopentyl glycol/stearyl hydrogenated dimer
dilinoleate copolymer; Sylvaclear PA1200V having the CTFA name
Polyamide-3; Sylvaclear PE400V; Sylvaclear WF1500V; or Uniclear,
such as Uniclear 100VG having the INCI name ethylenediamine/stearyl
dimer dilinoleate copolymer; or ethylenediamine/stearyl dimer
ditallate copolymer. Other examples of suitable polyamides include
those sold by Henkel under the Versamid trademark (such as Versamid
930, 744, 1655), or by Olin Mathieson Chemical Corp. under the
brand name Onamid S or Onamid C.
[0106] (e). Natural or Synthetic Organic Waxes
[0107] Also suitable as the oil phase structuring agent may be one
or more natural or synthetic waxes such as animal, vegetable, or
mineral waxes. Preferably such waxes will have a higher melting
point such as from about 35 to 150.degree. C., more preferably from
about 65 to 100.degree. C. Examples of such waxes include waxes
made by Fischer-Tropsch synthesis, such as polyethylene or
synthetic wax; or various vegetable waxes such as bayberry,
candelilla, ozokerite, acacia, beeswax, ceresin, cetyl esters,
flower wax, citrus wax, carnauba wax, jojoba wax, japan wax,
polyethylene, microcrystalline, rice bran, lanolin wax, mink,
montan, bayberry, ouricury, ozokerite, palm kernel wax, paraffin,
avocado wax, apple wax, shellac wax, clary wax, spent grain wax,
grape wax, and polyalkylene glycol derivatives thereof such as
PEG6-20 beeswax, or PEG-12 carnauba wax; or fatty acids or fatty
alcohols, including esters thereof, such as hydroxystearic acids
(for example 12-hydroxy stearic acid), tristearin, tribehenin, and
so on.
[0108] (f). Montmorillonite Minerals
[0109] One type of structuring agent that may be used in the
composition comprises natural or synthetic montmorillonite minerals
such as hectorite, bentonite, and quaternized derivatives thereof,
which are obtained by reacting the minerals with a quaternary
ammonium compound, such as stearalkonium bentonite, hectorites,
quaternized hectorites such as Quaternium-18 hectorite,
attapulgite, carbonates such as propylene carbonate, bentones, and
the like.
[0110] (g). Silicas and Silicates
[0111] Another type of structuring agent that may be used in the
compositions are silicas, silicates, silica silylate, and alkali
metal or alkaline earth metal derivatives thereof. These silicas
and silicates are generally found in the particulate form and
include silica, silica silylate, magnesium aluminum silicate, and
the like.
[0112] E. Organic Surfactants
[0113] The composition may contain one or more organic surfactants,
especially if in the emulsion form. However, such surfactants may
be used if the compositions are anhydrous also, and will assist in
dispersing ingredients that have polarity, for example pigments.
Such surfactants may be silicone or organic based. The surfactants
will aid in the formation of stable emulsions of either the
water-in-oil or oil-in-water form. If present, the surfactant may
range from about 0.001 to 30%, preferably from about 0.005 to 25%,
more preferably from about 0.1 to 20% by weight of the total
composition.
[0114] The composition may comprise one or more nonionic organic
surfactants. Suitable nonionic surfactants include alkoxylated
alcohols, or ethers, formed by the reaction of an alcohol with an
alkylene oxide, usually ethylene or propylene oxide. Preferably the
alcohol is either a fatty alcohol having 6 to 30 carbon atoms.
Examples of such ingredients include Steareth 2-100, which is
formed by the reaction of stearyl alcohol and ethylene oxide and
the number of ethylene oxide units ranges from 2 to 100; Beheneth
5-30 which is formed by the reaction of behenyl alcohol and
ethylene oxide where the number of repeating ethylene oxide units
is 5 to 30; Ceteareth 2-100, formed by the reaction of a mixture of
cetyl and stearyl alcohol with ethylene oxide, where the number of
repeating ethylene oxide units in the molecule is 2 to 100; Ceteth
1-45 which is formed by the reaction of cetyl alcohol and ethylene
oxide, and the number of repeating ethylene oxide units is 1 to 45,
and so on.
[0115] Other alkoxylated alcohols are formed by the reaction of
fatty acids and mono-, di- or polyhydric alcohols with an alkylene
oxide. For example, the reaction products of C.sub.6-30 fatty
carboxylic acids and polyhydric alcohols which are monosaccharides
such as glucose, galactose, methyl glucose, and the like, with an
alkoxylated alcohol. Examples include polymeric alkylene glycols
reacted with glyceryl fatty acid esters such as PEG glyceryl
oleates, PEG glyceryl stearate; or PEG polyhydroxyalkanotes such as
PEG dipolyhydroxystearate wherein the number of repeating ethylene
glycol units ranges from 3 to 1000.
[0116] Also suitable as nonionic surfactants are formed by the
reaction of a carboxylic acid with an alkylene oxide or with a
polymeric ether. The resulting products have the general
formula:
##STR00015##
[0117] where RCO is the carboxylic ester radical, X is hydrogen or
lower alkyl, and n is the number of polymerized alkoxy groups. In
the case of the diesters, the two RCO-groups do not need to be
identical. Preferably, R is a C6-30 straight or branched chain,
saturated or unsaturated alkyl, and n is from 1-100.
[0118] Monomeric, homopolymeric, or block copolymeric ethers are
also suitable as nonionic surfactants. Typically, such ethers are
formed by the polymerization of monomeric alkylene oxides,
generally ethylene or propylene oxide. Such polymeric ethers have
the following general formula: wherein R is H or lower alkyl and n
is the number of repeating monomer units, and ranges from 1 to
500.
[0119] Other suitable nonionic surfactants include alkoxylated
sorbitan and alkoxylated sorbitan derivatives. For example,
alkoxylation, in particular ethoxylation of sorbitan provides
polyalkoxylated sorbitan derivatives. Esterification of
polyalkoxylated sorbitan provides sorbitan esters such as the
polysorbates. For example, the polyalkyoxylated sorbitan can be
esterified with C6-30, preferably C12-22 fatty acids. Examples of
such ingredients include Polysorbates 20-85, sorbitan oleate,
sorbitan sesquioleate, sorbitan palmitate, sorbitan
sesquiisostearate, sorbitan stearate, and so on.
[0120] Also suitable are phosphate based emulsifiers such as those
which are C.sub.2-40 alcohols and phosphoric acid. More preferred
is where the alcohols are fatty C6-22 alcohols such as cetyl,
stearyl, behenyl, alcohols or salts thereof. Also suitable are
diesters phosphoric acid and one or more C2-40 alcohols, e.g.
dicetyl phosphate; or fatty C6-30 ethoxylated alcohols and
phosphoric acid, e.g. ceteth-10 phosphate, steareth-10 phosphate;
C12-13 Pareth-2 Phosphate; Laureth-7 Phosphate; and the like.
[0121] Inulin based emulsifiers may also be used. Examples include
inulin lauryl carbamate; palmitoyl inulin; sodium carboxymethyl
inulin; stearoyl inulin; undecylenoyl inulin; and mixtures
thereof.
[0122] It may also be desirable to incorporate various types of
surfactants that induce the formation of liquid crystals in the
composition. Examples of such surfactants include ceramide based
surfactants such as phytosphingosines; C12-20 alkyl glucosides;
coco glucosides; olive based semi-solids such as cetyl palmitate;
sorbitan olivate; sorbitan palmitate; or phospholipid based
emulsifiers such as lecithin, hydrogenated lecithin, phytosterols,
and so on.
[0123] Certain types of amphoteric, zwitterionic, or cationic
surfactants may also be used in the compositions. Descriptions of
such surfactants are set forth in U.S. Pat. No. 5,843,193, which is
hereby incorporated by reference in its entirety.
[0124] F. Humectants
[0125] It may also be desirable to include one or more humectants
in the composition. If present, such humectants may range from
about 0.001 to 25%, preferably from about 0.005 to 20%, more
preferably from about 0.1 to 15% by weight of the total
composition. Examples of suitable humectants include glycols,
sugars, and the like. Suitable glycols are in monomeric or
polymeric form and include polyethylene and polypropylene glycols
such as PEG 4-200, which are polyethylene glycols having from 4 to
200 repeating ethylene oxide units; as well as C.sub.1-6 alkylene
glycols such as propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene
glycol, and the like. Suitable sugars, some of which are also
polyhydric alcohols, are also suitable humectants. Examples of such
sugars include glucose, fructose, honey, hydrogenated honey,
inositol, maltose, mannitol, maltitol, sorbitol, sucrose, xylitol,
xylose, and so on. Also suitable is urea. Preferably, the
humectants used in the composition of the invention are C.sub.1-6,
preferably C.sub.24 alkylene glycols, most particularly butylene
glycol.
[0126] G. Botanical Extracts
[0127] It may be desirable to include one or more botanical
extracts in the compositions. If so, suggested ranges are from
about 0.0001 to 10%, preferably about 0.0005 to 8%, more preferably
about 0.001 to 5% by weight of the total composition. Suitable
botanical extracts include extracts from plants (herbs, roots,
flowers, fruits, seeds) such as flowers, fruits, vegetables, and so
on, including yeast ferment extract, Padina Pavonica extract,
thermus thermophilis ferment extract, camelina sativa seed oil,
boswellia serrata extract, olive extract, Aribodopsis Thaliana
extract, Acacia Dealbata extract, Acer Saccharinum (sugar maple),
acidopholus, acorus, aesculus, Alicaligenes polysaccharides,
agaricus, agave, agrimonia, algae, aloe, citrus, brassica,
cinnamon, orange, apple, blueberry, cranberry, peach, pear, lemon,
lime, pea, seaweed, caffeine, green tea, chamomile, willowbark,
mulberry, poppy, and those set forth on pages 1646 through 1660 of
the CTFA Cosmetic Ingredient Handbook, Eighth Edition, Volume 2.
Further specific examples include, but are not limited to,
Glycyrrhiza Glabra, Salix Nigra, Macrocycstis Pyrifera, Pyrus
Malus, Saxifraga Sannentosa, Vitis Vinifera, Morus Nigra,
Scutellaria Baicalensis, Anthemis Nobilis, Salvia Sclarea,
Rosmarinus Officianalis, Citrus Medica Limonum, Panax Ginseng,
Siegesbeckia Orientalis, Fructus Mume, Ascophyllum Nodosum, Bifida
Ferment lysate, Glycine Soja extract, Beta Vulgaris, Haberlea
Rhodopensis, Polygonum Cuspidatum, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis, Vitis
Vinifera, Selaginella Tamariscina, Humulus Lupulus, Citrus
Reticulata Peel, Punica Granatum, Asparagopsis, Curcuma Longa,
Menyanthes Trifoliata, Helianthus Annuus, Hordeum Vulgare, Cucumis
Sativus, Evernia Prunastri, Evernia Furfuracea, and mixtures
thereof.
[0128] H. Sunscreens
[0129] It may also be desirable to include one or more sunscreens
in the compositions of the invention. Such sunscreens include
chemical UVA or UVB sunscreens or physical sunscreens in the
particulate form. Inclusion of sunscreens in the compositions
containing the cyanodiphenylacrylate will provide additional
protection to skin during daylight hours and promote the
effectiveness of the cyanodiphenylacrylate on the skin.
[0130] 1. UVA Chemical Sunscreens
[0131] If desired, the composition may comprise one or more UVA
sunscreens. The term "UVA sunscreen" means a chemical compound that
blocks UV radiation in the wavelength range of about 320 to 400 nm.
Preferred UVA sunscreens are dibenzoylmethane compounds having the
general formula:
##STR00016##
wherein R.sub.1 is H, OR and NRR wherein each R is independently H,
C.sub.1-20 straight or branched chain alkyl; R.sub.2 is H or OH;
and R.sub.3 is H, C.sub.1-20 straight or branched chain alkyl.
[0132] Preferred is where R.sub.1 is OR where R is a C.sub.1-20
straight or branched alkyl, preferably methyl; R.sub.2 is H; and
R.sub.3 is a C.sub.1-20 straight or branched chain alkyl, more
preferably, butyl.
[0133] Examples of suitable UVA sunscreen compounds of this general
formula include 4-methyldibenzoylmethane, 2-methyldibenzoylmethane,
4-isopropyldibenzoylmethane, 4-tert-butyldibenzoylmethane,
2,4-dimethyldibenzoylmethane, 2,5-dimethyldibenzoylmethane,
4,4'diisopropylbenzoylmethane,
4-tert-butyl-4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane,
4,4'-diisopropylbenzoylmethane,
2-methyl-5-isopropyl-4'-methoxydibenzoymethane,
2-methyl-5-tert-butyl-4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane, and so on.
Particularly preferred is 4-tert-butyl-4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane,
also referred to as Avobenzone. Avobenzone is commercial available
from Givaudan-Roure under the trademark Parsol 1789, and Merck
& Co. under the tradename Eusolex 9020.
[0134] Other types of UVA sunscreens include dicamphor sulfonic
acid derivatives, such as ecamsule, a sunscreen sold under the
trade name Mexoryff, which is terephthalylidene dicamphor sulfonic
acid, having the formula:
##STR00017##
[0135] The composition may contain from about 0.001-20%, preferably
0.005-5%, more preferably about 0.005-3% by weight of the
composition of UVA sunscreen. In the preferred embodiment of the
invention the UVA sunscreen is Avobenzone, and it is present at not
greater than about 3% by weight of the total composition.
[0136] 2. UVB Chemical Sunscreens
[0137] The term "UVB sunscreen" means a compound that blocks UV
radiation in the wavelength range of from about 290 to 320 nm. A
variety of UVB chemical sunscreens exist including
alpha-cyano-beta,beta-diphenyl acrylic acid esters as set forth in
U.S. Pat. No. 3,215,724, which is hereby incorporated by reference
in its entirety. One particular example of an
alpha-cyano-beta,beta-diphenyl acrylic acid ester is Octocrylene,
which is 2-ethylhexyl 2-cyano-3,3-diphenylacrylate. In certain
cases the composition may contain no more than about 110% by weight
of the total composition of octocrylene. Suitable amounts range
from about 0.001-10% by weight. Octocrylene may be purchased from
BASF under the tradename Uvinul N-539.
[0138] Other suitable sunscreens include benzylidene camphor
derivatives as set forth in U.S. Pat. No. 3,781,417, which is
hereby incorporated by reference in its entirety. Such benzylidene
camphor derivatives have the general formula:
##STR00018##
wherein R is p-tolyl or styryl, preferably styryl. Particularly
preferred is 4-methylbenzylidene camphor, which is a lipid soluble
UVB sunscreen compound sold under the tradename Eusolex 6300 by
Merck.
[0139] Also suitable are cinnamate derivatives having the general
formula:
##STR00019##
wherein R and R.sub.1 are each independently a C.sub.1-20 straight
or branched chain alkyl. Preferred is where R is methyl and R.sub.1
is a branched chain C.sub.1-10, preferably C.sub.8 alkyl. The
preferred compound is ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, also referred to
as Octoxinate or octyl methoxycinnamate. The compound may be
purchased from Givaudan Corporation under the tradename Parsol MCX,
or BASF under the tradename Uvinul MC 80. Also suitable are mono-,
di-, and triethanolamine derivatives of such methoxy cinnamates
including diethanolamine methoxycinnamate. Cinoxate, the aromatic
ether derivative of the above compound is also acceptable. If
present, the Cinoxate should be found at no more than about 3% by
weight of the total composition.
[0140] Also suitable as UVB screening agents are various
benzophenone derivatives having the general formula:
##STR00020##
wherein R through R.sub.9 are each independently H, OH, NaO.sub.3S,
SO.sub.3H, SO.sub.3Na, Cl, R'', OR'' where R'' is C.sub.1-20
straight or branched chain alkyl Examples of such compounds include
Benzophenone 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, and 12.
Particularly preferred is where the benzophenone derivative is
Benzophenone 3 (also referred to as Oxybenzone), Benzophenone 4
(also referred to as Sulisobenzone), Benzophenone 5 (Sulisobenzone
Sodium), and the like. Most preferred is Benzophenone 3.
[0141] Also suitable are certain menthyl salicylate derivatives
having the general formula:
##STR00021##
wherein R.sub.1, R.sub.2, R.sub.3, and R.sub.4 are each
independently H, OH, NH.sub.2, or C.sub.1-20 straight or branched
chain alkyl. Particularly preferred is where R.sub.1, R.sub.2, and
R.sub.3 are methyl and R.sub.4 is hydroxyl or NH.sub.2, the
compound having the name homomenthyl salicylate (also known as
Homosalate) or menthyl anthranilate. Homosalate is available
commercially from Merck under the tradename Eusolex HMS and menthyl
anthranilate is commercially available from Haarmann & Reimer
under the tradename Heliopan. If present, the Homosalate should be
found at no more than about 15% by weight of the total
composition.
[0142] Various amino benzoic acid derivatives are suitable UVB
absorbers including those having the general formula:
##STR00022##
wherein R.sub.1, R.sub.2, and R.sub.3 are each independently H,
C.sub.1-20 straight or branched chain alkyl which may be
substituted with one or more hydroxy groups. Particularly preferred
is wherein R.sub.1 is H or C.sub.1-8 straight or branched alkyl,
and R.sub.2 and R.sub.3 are H, or C.sub.1-8 straight or branched
chain alkyl. Particularly preferred are PABA, ethyl hexyl dimethyl
PABA (Padimate O), ethyldihydroxypropyl PABA, and the like. If
present Padimate O should be found at no more than about 8% by
weight of the total composition.
[0143] Salicylate derivatives are also acceptable UVB absorbers.
Such compounds have the general formula: wherein R is a straight or
branched chain alkyl, including derivatives of the above compound
formed from mono-, di-, or triethanolamines. Particular preferred
are octyl salicylate, TEA-salicylate, DEA-salicylate, and mixtures
thereof.
Generally, the amount of the UVB chemical sunscreen present may
range from about 0.001-45%, preferably 0.005-40%, more preferably
about 0.01-35% by weight of the total composition.
[0144] Also suitable are certain esters of 2-phenyl ethanol and
benzoic acid. One example is phenyethyl benzoate, which is sold
under the tradename X-Tend 226.RTM., by International Specialty
Products.
[0145] If desired, the compositions of the invention may be
formulated to have a certain SPF (sun protective factor) values
ranging from about 1-50, preferably about 2-45, most preferably
about 5-30. Calculation of SPF values is well known in the art.
[0146] I. Particulate Materials
[0147] The compositions of the invention may contain particulate
materials in the form of pigments, inert particulates, or mixtures
thereof. If present, suggested ranges are from about 0.01-75%,
preferably about 0.5-70%, more preferably about 0.1-65% by weight
of the total composition. In the case where the composition may
comprise mixtures of pigments and powders, suitable ranges include
about 0.01-75% pigment and 0.1-75% powder, such weights by weight
of the total composition.
[0148] 1. Powders
[0149] The particulate matter may be colored or non-colored (for
example white) non-pigmented powders. Suitable non-pigmented
powders include zinc oxide or titanium dioxide (which may be
micronized, e.g. having a particle size of from about 0.1 to 1
micron and are generally known for having SPF properties,
particularly UVA), bismuth oxychloride, titanated mica, fumed
silica, spherical silica, polymethylmethacrylate, micronized
teflon, boron nitride, acrylate copolymers, aluminum silicate,
aluminum starch octenylsuccinate, bentonite, calcium silicate,
cellulose, chalk, corn starch, diatomaceous earth, fuller's earth,
glyceryl starch, hectorite, hydrated silica, kaolin, magnesium
aluminum silicate, magnesium trisilicate, maltodextrin,
montmorillonite, microcrystalline cellulose, rice starch, silica,
talc, mica, titanium dioxide, zinc laurate, zinc myristate, zinc
rosinate, alumina, attapulgite, calcium carbonate, calcium
silicate, dextran, kaolin, nylon, silica silylate, silk powder,
sericite, soy flour, tin oxide, titanium hydroxide, trimagnesium
phosphate, walnut shell powder, or mixtures thereof. The above
mentioned powders may be surface treated with lecithin, amino
acids, mineral oil, silicone, or various other agents either alone
or in combination, which coat the powder surface and render the
particles more lipophilic in nature.
[0150] 2. Pigments
[0151] The particulate materials may comprise various organic
and/or inorganic pigments. The organic pigments are generally
various aromatic types including azo, indigoid, triphenylmethane,
anthroquinone, and xanthine dyes which are designated as D&C
and FD&C blues, browns, greens, oranges, reds, yellows, etc.
Organic pigments generally consist of insoluble metallic salts of
certified color additives, referred to as the Lakes. Inorganic
pigments include iron oxides, ultramarines, chromium, chromium
hydroxide colors, and mixtures thereof. Iron oxides of red, blue,
yellow, brown, black, and mixtures thereof are suitable.
[0152] J. Preservatives
[0153] The composition may contain 0.001-8%, preferably 0.01-6%,
more preferably 0.05-5% by weight of the total composition of
preservatives. A variety of preservatives are suitable, including
such as benzoic acid, benzyl alcohol, benzylhemiformal,
benzylparaben, 5-bromo-5-nitro-1,3-dioxane,
2-bromo-2-nitropropane-1,3-diol, butyl paraben, phenoxyethanol,
methyl paraben, propyl paraben, diazolidinyl urea, calcium
benzoate, calcium propionate, caprylyl glycol, biguanide
derivatives, phenoxyethanol, captan, chlorhexidine diacetate,
chlorhexidine digluconate, chlorhexidine dihydrochloride,
chloroacetamide, chlorobutanol, p-chloro-m-cresol, chlorophene,
chlorothymol, chloroxylenol, m-cresol, o-cresol, DEDM Hydantoin,
DEDM Hydantoin dilaurate, dehydroacetic acid, diazolidinyl urea,
dibromopropamidine diisethionate, DMDM Hydantoin, and the like. In
one preferred embodiment the composition is free of parabens.
[0154] K. Vitamins and Antioxidants
[0155] The compositions of the invention may contain vitamins
and/or coenzymes, as well as antioxidants. If so, 0.001-10%,
preferably 0.01-8%, more preferably 0.05-5% by weight of the total
composition is suggested. Suitable vitamins include ascorbic acid
and derivatives thereof such as ascorbyl palmitate, tetrahexydecyl
ascorbate, and so on; the B vitamins such as thiamine, riboflavin,
pyridoxin, niacin, niacinamide, nicotinic acid, nicotinic acid
dinucleotide, and so on, as well as coenzymes such as thiamine
pyrophoshate, flavin adenine dinucleotide, folic acid, pyridoxal
phosphate, tetrahydrofolic acid, and so on. Also Vitamin A and
derivatives thereof are suitable. Examples are retinyl palmitate,
retinol, retinoic acid, as well as Vitamin A in the form of beta
carotene. Also suitable is Vitamin E and derivatives thereof such
as Vitamin E acetate, nicotinate, or other esters thereof. In
addition, Vitamins D and K are suitable.
[0156] Suitable antioxidants are ingredients which assist in
preventing or retarding spoilage. Examples of antioxidants suitable
for use in the compositions of the invention are potassium sulfite,
sodium bisulfite, sodium erythrobate, sodium metabisulfite, sodium
sulfite, propyl gallate, cysteine hydrochloride, butylated
hydroxytoluene, butylated hydroxyanisole, and so on.
[0157] L. Film Formers
[0158] It may be desirable to include one or more film forming
ingredients in the cosmetic compositions of the invention. Suitable
film formers are ingredients that contribute to formation of a film
on the keratinous surface. In some cases the film formers may
provide films that provide long wearing or transfer resistant
properties such that the cosmetic applied to the keratinous surface
will remain for periods of time ranging from 3 to 16 hours. If
present, such film formers may range from about 0.01 to 50%,
preferably from about 0.1 to 40%, more preferably from about 0.5 to
35% by weight of the total composition. The film formers are most
often found in the polymeric form and may be natural or synthetic
polymers. If synthetic, silicone polymers, organic polymers or
copolymers of silicones and organic groups may be acceptable.
Suitable film formers include, but are not limited to:
[0159] 1. Silicone Resins
[0160] One particularly suitable type of silicone film former is a
silicone resin. Silicone resins are generally highly crosslinked
structures comprising combinations of M, D, T, and Q units. The
term "M" means a monofunctional siloxy unit having the general
formula:
[Si--(CH.sub.3).sub.3--O].sub.0.5
In cases where the M unit is other than methyl (such as ethyl,
propyl, ethoxy, etc.) the M unit may have a prime after it, e.g.
M'.
[0161] The term "D" means a difunctional siloxy unit having the
general formula:
Si--(CH.sub.3).sub.2--O].sub.1.0
[0162] The difunctional unit may be substituted with alkyl groups
other than methyl, such as ethyl, propyl, alkylene glycol, and the
like, in which case the D unit may be referred to as D', with the
prime indicating a substitution.
[0163] The term "T" means a trifunctional siloxy unit having the
general formula:
[Si--(CH.sub.3)--O].sub.1.5
The trifunctional unit may be substituted with substituents other
than methyl, in which case it may be referred to as T'.
[0164] The term "Q" refers to a quadrifunctional siloxy unit having
the general formula:
[Si--O--].sub.2.0
[0165] The silicone resins that may be used as film formers in the
compositions of the invention preferably comprise highly
crosslinked combinations of M, T, and Q units. Examples of such
resins include trimethylsiloxysilicate which can be purchased from
Dow Corning Corporation as 749 Fluid, or from GE Silicones under
the SR-1000 tradename. Also suitable is a silicone resin that
contains a large percentage of T groups, such as MK resin sold by
Wacker-Chemie, having the CTFA name polymethylsilsesquioxane.
[0166] 2. Copolymers of Silicone and Organic Monomers
[0167] Also suitable for use as the film formers are copolymers of
silicone and organic monomers such as acrylates, methacrylates, and
the like. Examples of such suitable film forming polymers include
those commonly referred to as silicone acrylate or vinyl silicone
copolymers, such as those sold by 3M under the brand name "Silicone
Plus" polymers such as SA-70, having the CTFA name Polysilicone-7
and is a copolymer of isobutylmethacrylate and n-butyl endblocked
polydimethylsiloxane propyl methacrylate; or VS-70 having the CTFA
name Polysilicone-6, which is a copolymer of dimethylsiloxane and
methyl-3 mercaptopropyl siloxane reacted with isobutyl
methacrylate; or VS-80, having the CTFA name Polysilicone-8, which
has the general structure:
##STR00023##
where R represents the acrylates copolymer radical.
[0168] 3. Organic Polymers
[0169] Also suitable as film formers include various types of
organic polymers such as polymers formed from acrylic acid,
methacrylic acid, or their simple C.sub.1-10 carboxylic acid
esters, such as methyl methacrylate, methyl acrylate, and the
like.
[0170] 4. Natural Polymers
[0171] Also suitable are various types of natural polymers such as
shellac, natural resins, chitin, and the like.
[0172] M. DNA Repair Enzymes
[0173] It may also be desirable to incorporate one or more DNA
repair enzymes into the composition of the invention. Suggested
ranges are from about 0.00001 to about 35%, preferably from about
0.00005 to about 30%, more preferably from about 0.0001 to about
25% of one or more DNA repair enzymes.
[0174] DNA repair enzymes as disclosed in U.S. Pat. Nos. 5,077,211;
5,190,762; 5,272,079; and 5,296,231, all of which are hereby
incorporated by reference in their entirety, are suitable for use
in the compositions and method of the invention. One example of
such a DNA repair enzyme may be purchased from AGI Dermatics under
the trade name Roxisomes.RTM., and has the INCI name Arabidopsis
Thaliana extract. It may be present alone or in admixture with
lecithin and water. This DNA repair enzyme is known to be effective
in repairing 8-oxo-diGuanine base mutation damage.
[0175] Another type of DNA repair enzyme that may be used is one
that is known to be effective in repairing 06-methyl guanine base
mutation damage. It is sold by AGI/Dermatics under the tradename
Adasomes.RTM., and has the INCI name Lactobacillus ferment, which
may be added to the composition of the invention by itself or in
admixture with lecithin and water.
[0176] Another type of DNA repair enzyme that may be used is one
that is known to be effective in repairing T-T dimers. The enzymes
are present in mixtures of biological or botanical materials.
Examples of such ingredients are sold by AGI/Dermatics under the
tradenames Ultrasomes.RTM. or Photosomes.RTM.. Ultrasomes.RTM.
comprises a mixture of Micrococcus lysate (an end product of the
controlled lysis of a species of micrococcus), lecithin, and water.
Photosomes.RTM. comprises a mixture of plankton extract (which is
the extract of a biomass which includes enzymes from one or more of
the following organisms: thalassoplankton, green micro-algae,
diatoms, greenish-blue and nitrogen-fixing seaweed), water, and
lecithin.
[0177] Another type of DNA repair enzyme may be a component of
various inactivated bacterial lysates such as Bifida lysate or
Bifida ferment lysate, the latter a lysate from Bifido bacteria
which contains the metabolic products and cytoplasmic fractions
when Bifido bacteria are cultured, inactivated and then
disintegrated. This material has the INCI name Bifida Ferment
Lysate.
[0178] Other suitable DNA repair enzymes include Endonuclease V,
which may be produced by the denV gene of the bacteriophage T4.
Also suitable are T4 endonuclease; O.sup.6-methylguanine-DNA
methyltransferases; photolyases, base glycosylases such as uracil-
and hypoxanthine-DNA glycosylases; apyrimidinic/apurinic
endonucleases; DNA exonucleases, damaged-bases glycosylases (e.g.,
3-methyladenine-DNA glycosylase); correndonucleases either alone or
in complexes (e.g., E. coli uvrA/uvrB/uvrC endonuclease complex);
APEX nuclease, which is a multi-functional DNA repair enzyme often
referred to as "APE"; dihydrofolate reductase; terminal
transferase; polymerases; ligases; and topoisomerases.
[0179] Other types of suitable DNA repair enzymes may be
categorized by the type of repair facilitated and include BER (base
excision repair) or BER factor enzymes such as uracil-DNA
glycosylase (UNG); single strand selective monofunctional uracil
DNA glycosylase (SMUG1); 3,N(4)-ethenocytosine glycosylase (MBD4);
thymine DNA-glycosylase (TDG); A/G-specific adenine DNA glycosylase
(MUTYH); 8-oxoguanine DNA glycosylase (OGG1); endonuclease III-like
(NTHL1); 3-methyladenine DNA glycosidase (MPG); DNA glycosylase/AP
lyase (NEIL1 or 2); AP endonuclease (APEX 1 and 2), DNA ligase
(LIG3), ligase accessory factor (XRCC1); DNA
5'-kinase/3'-phosphatase (PNKP); ADP-ribosyltransferase (PARP1 or
2).
[0180] Another category of DNA repair enzymes includes those that
are believed to directly reverse damage such as O.sup.6-MeG alkyl
transferase (MGMT); 1-meA dioxygenase (ALKBH2 or ALKBH3).
[0181] Yet another category of enzymes operable to repair
DNA/protein crosslinks includes Tyr-DNA phosphodiesterase
(TDP1).
[0182] Also suitable are MMR (mismatch excision repair) DNA repair
enzymes such as MutS protein homolog (MSH2); mismatch repair
protein (MSH3); mutS homolog 4 (MSH4); MutS homolog 5 (MSH5); or
G/T mismatch-binding protein (MSH6); DNA mismatch repair protein
(PMS 1, PMS2, MLH1, MLH3); Postmeiotic segregation increased 2-like
protein (PMS2L3); or postmeiotic segregation increased 2-like 4
pseudogene (PMS2L4).
[0183] Also suitable are DNA repair enzymes are those known as
nucleotide excision repair (NER) enzymes and include those such as
Xeroderma Pigmentosum group C-complementing protein (XPC); RAD23
(S. cerevisiae) homolog (RAD23B); caltractin isoform (CETN2); RFA
Protein 1, 2, of 3 (RPA1, 2, or 3); 3' to 5' DNA helicase (ERCC3);
5' to 3' DNA helicase (ERCC2); basic transcription factor (GTF2H1,
GTF2H2, GTF2H3, GTF2H4, GTF2H5); CDK activating kinase (CDK7,
CCNH); cyclin G1-interacting protein (MNAT1); DNA excision repair
protein ERCC-1 or RAD-51; excision repair cross-complementing 1
(ERCC1); DNA ligase 1 (LIG1); ATP-dependent helicase (ERCC6); and
the like.
[0184] Also suitable may be DNA repair enzymes in the category that
facilitate homologous recombination and include, but are not
limited to DNA repair protein RAD51 homolog (RAD51, RAD51L1, RAD51B
etc.); DNA repair protein XRCC2; DNA repair protein XRCC3; DNA
repair protein RAD52; ATPase (RAD50); 3' exonuclease (MRE11A); and
so on.
[0185] DNA repair enzymes that are DNA polymerases are also
suitable and include DNA polymerase beta subunit (POLB); DNA
polymerase gamma (POLG); DNA polymerase subunit delta (POLD1); DNA
polymerase II subunit A (POLE); DNA polymerase delta auxiliary
protein (PCNA); DNA polymerase zeta (POLZ); MAD2 homolog (REV7);
DNA polymerase eta (POLH): DNA polymerase kappa (POLK): and the
like.
[0186] Various types of DNA repair enzymes that are often referred
to as "editing and processing nucleases" include 3'-nuclease;
3'-exonuclease; 5'-exonuclease; endonuclease; and the like.
[0187] Other examples of DNA repair enzymes include DNA helicases
including such as ATP DNA helicase and so on.
[0188] The DNA repair enzymes may be present as components of
botanical extracts, bacterial lysates, biological materials, and
the like. For example, botanical extracts may contain DNA repair
enzymes.
[0189] N. The Cosmetic Compositions
[0190] The compositions of the invention containing the
cyanodiphenylacrylates may be found in a variety of forms, such as
anhydrous compositions, aqueous based solutions, serums, gels, skin
creams or lotions, or color cosmetic compositions such as
foundation makeup, mascara, lip color, blush, eyeshadow, and the
like. In the case where the composition is in the anhydrous form
the cyanodiphenylacrylate may be solubilized or dispersed in the
oil phase of the emulsion; or if the cyanodiphenylacrylate is water
soluble it may be solvated in polar solvents, typically ingredients
referred to as humectants such as glycerine or alkylene glycols
prior to formation of an anhydrous emulsion. Preferably the
cyanodiphenylacrylate is lipophilic and soluble in the oil or
silicone phase of the composition.
[0191] Emulsions comprise from about 0.1 to 95%, preferably from
about 1 to 90%, more preferably from about 2 to 85% water; and from
about 0.1 to 95%, preferably from about 1 to 90%, more preferably
from about 2 to 85% of one or more oils.
[0192] If the composition is in the emulsion form, the
cyanodiphenylacrylate is preferably found in the oil phase of the
emulsion, which oil phase may be silicones, organic oils, or a
combination thereof. Certain other derivatives are lipophilic in
nature and will more likely be found in the oil phase of the
emulsion.
[0193] Suitable serums or gels will generally comprise from about
1-99% water, and optionally from about 0.001-30% of an aqueous
phase thickening agent. The other ingredients mentioned herein may
be present in the percentage ranges set forth. In the case where
the cynaodiphenylacrylate is lipophilic it will be dispersed in the
aqueous phase.
[0194] Typical skin creams or lotions comprise from about 5-98%
water, 1-85% oil, and from about 0.1 to 20% of one or more
surfactants. Preferably the surfactants are nonionic and may be in
the form of oxyalkylenated organosiloxanes or organic nonionic
surfactants.
[0195] Typical color cosmetic compositions such as foundations,
blush, eyeshadow and the like will preferably contain from about
5-98% water, 1-85% oil, and from about 0.1 to 20% of one or more
surfactants in addition to from about 0.1 to 65% of particulates
that are pigments or a combination of pigments and powders.
[0196] Typical mascara compositions generally contain from about
5-98% water, 1-85% oil, and from about 0.1 to 20% surfactant in
addition to natural or synthetic polymers that are film forming,
such as aqueous dispersions of acrylic copolymers, aqueous
dispersions of polyurethane, or silicone resins.
[0197] Preferred compositions of the invention comprise skin
creams, lotions, foundations, or sun protective products. Generally
such products will be aqueous based and contain cyanodiphenyl
acrylate, water, at least one oxyalkylenated organosiloxane
emulsifier, one or more silicone oils, one or more organic oils,
and one or more particulate sunscreens having a particle size
ranging from about 0.1 to 5 microns; and one or more humectants.
More preferred is an SPF composition comprising: [0198] from about
0.1 to 10% of the cyanodiphenylacrylate, preferably
ethylhexylmethoxycrylene,
[0199] from about 1 to 90% water,
[0200] from about 0.1 to 40% of at least one volatile oil
[0201] from about 0.1 to 40% of at least one non-volatile oil
[0202] from about 0.1 to 60% of at least one particulate
sunscreen
[0203] from about 0.1 to 40% of one or more humectants.
[0204] Even more preferred is a composition where the at least one
volatile oil comprises a silicone having a viscosity in the range
of from about 0.5 to 5 cst or a volatile paraffinic hydrocarbon;
the at least one non-volatile oil component comprises at least one
silicone oil and at least one organic oil; the at least one
particulate sunscreen comprises zinc oxide having a particle size
ranging from about 0.1 to 5 microns; and the at least one humectant
comprises a C.sub.24 alkylene glycol or glycerin.
[0205] An even more preferred embodiment is where the volatile
silicone comprises methyl trimethicone, the volatile paraffinic
hydrocarbon comprises isododecane; the non-volatile oil component
comprises dimethicone or diethicone, and the organic oil an ester;
the particulate sunscreen comprises zinc oxide having a particle
size ranging from about 0.1 to 5 microns; and the at least one
humectant comprises propylene glycol or butylene glycol.
[0206] The above composition preferably has an SPF of greater than
20, more preferably greater than 25, even more preferred greater
than 35 or 40.
[0207] The invention will be further described in connection with
the following examples which are set forth for the purposes of
illustration only.
Example 1
[0208] A topical composition with SPF was prepared as follows:
TABLE-US-00001 Ingredient Wt % Water QS QS Methyl trimethicone
12.60 12.60 Butylene glycol 6.00 6.00 Zinc oxide 5.00 5.00
Ethylhexylmethoxycrylene 5.00 5.00 C12-15 alkyl benzoate 4.35 4.35
Titanium dioxide 3.88 3.1 Dimethicone 3.79 3.70 Neopentylglycol
diethylhexanoate 3.46 3.46 Beeswax 3.00 3.00 Polydiethylsiloxane
3.00 3.00 Dipentaerythrityl tripolyhydroxystearate 2.00 Isododecane
2.18 Glycerin 2.00 2.00 Lauryl PEG-9 polydimethylsiloxyethyl
dimethicone 2.00 2.00 Ethyl macadamiate 2.00 2.00 Acrylic
acid/acrylonitrogens copolymer 1.94 Cetyl PEG/PPG 10/1 dimethicone
1.00 1.00 Magnesium sulfate 1.00 1.00 Phenoxyethanol 0.80 0.83
Dimethicone/dimethicone PEG/PPG 15 crosspolymer 0.50 0.50 Iron
oxides 0.49 0.49 Caprylyl glycol 0.49 0.49 Hydrolyzed wheat
protein/PVP crosspolymer 0.40 Isostearic acid 0.40 0.40 Trisiloxane
0.36 Trimethylsiloxysilicate 0.33 0.33 Acrylates copolymer 0.30
Polyhydroxystearic acid 0.25 0.25 Xanthan gum 0.25 0.25 Dimethicone
silylate 0.24 Tocopheryl acetate 0.20 Ascorbyl tocopheryl maleate
0.18 Oryzanol 0.18 Pantenthine 0.16 Disteardimonium hectorite 0.24
Alicaligenes polysaccharides 0.20 Tocopheryl acetate 0.20
Pantethine 0.16 Dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer 0.15
0.15 Propylene carbonate 0.09 Lecithin 0.01 0.01 Potassium sorbate
0.004 Tocopherol 0.003
[0209] The compositions were prepared by combining the ingredients
well and mixing to form an emulsion.
Example 2
[0210] An anhydrous product with SPF was prepared as follows:
TABLE-US-00002 Ingredients w/w % Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate 7.50
Polyethylene 6.00 Heptyl undecylenate 6.00 Ethylhexylmethoxycrylene
6.00 Bis-diglyeryl polyacyladipate-2 5.29 Homosalate 5.00
Mica/Aluminum Dimyristate/triethoxcaprylylsilane/ 5.00 disodium
stearoyl glutamate Mica/methylmethacrylate crosspolymer 5.00
Ethylhexyl salicylate 5.00 Microcrystalline wax 4.50 Simmondsia
Chinensis (jojoba) seed oil 4.00 Butyloctyl salicylate 4.00
Gclyeryl hydrogenated rosinate 4.00 Oleic/linoleic/linolenic
polyglyceride 4.00 HDI/trimethylol hexyllactone crosspolymer/silica
3.50 Avobenzone 3.00 Polyglyceryl-2 triisostearate 2.81 Octocrylene
2.79 Synthetic wax/synthetic beeswax/stearic acid 2.40 Ethyl
macadamiate 2.00 Butyrospermum parkii (Shea Butter) 2.00 Beeswax
1.80 Methyl glucose sesquistearate 1.50 Dipentaerythrityl
hexahydroxystearate/ 1.49 hexastearate/hexarosinate Tricaprylin
1.31 Glyceryl dilaurate 1.00 Mauritia Flexuosa fruit oil 1.00
VP/Eicosene 1.00 Isononyl isononanoate 1.00 Tocopheryl acetate 0.10
Pentaerythrityl tetra-di-T-butyle hydroxyhdryocinnamate 0.01
Example 3
[0211] Skin treatment oil-in-water (1), and
oil-in-water-in-silicone oil (2), creams may be prepared as
follows:
TABLE-US-00003 w/w % Ingredient 1 2 Water QS QS Hydroxyethyl urea
0.50 Hyaluronic acid 9.00 9.00 Disodium EDTA 0.12 Creatine 0.05
Sucrose 0.50 Caffeine 0.20 Caprylyl glycol 0.40 0.28
Caprylic/capric triglyceride/cetyl alcohol/C12-20 4.00 acid PEG-8
ester PEG-100 stearate 1.20 C12-20 acid PEG-8 ester 4.96
Caprylic/capric triglyceride 0.55 Behenyl alcohol 0.50 Coco
caprylate caprate 5.10 Sweet almond oil 0.10 Dimethicone, 100 cst.
2.50 Ethylhexylmethoxycrylene 2.00 2.00 Dimethicone, 6 cst 5.00
Dimethicone (silicone gum/20 cst dimethicone blend) 8.00
Dimethicone/polysilicone 11 6.00 Dimethicone/dimethicone PEG-10/15
crosspolymer 1.00 Lauryl PEG-9 polydimethylsiloxyethyl dimethicone
1.00 Sesame oil 0.10 Potassium cetyl phosphate 0.50 Apricot kernel
oil 0.10 Wheat bran extract/olive extract 0.20 0.20 Cholesterol
0.20 Linoleic acid 0.20 Cholesterol/potassium sulfate 0.20
Theobroma grandiflorum seed butter 1.40 Lauryl PCA 0.01 1.00
Dimethicone 1.50 Phenoxyethanol 0.70 0.60 Water/polyaminopropyl
biguanide 0.40 Glycerin 2.00 Butylene glycol 1.00 Hexylene glycol
0.05 Mica/titanium dioxide 1.00 0.75 Mica/titanium
dioxide/triethoxycaprylyl silane 0.50 Pearl powder 0.001 Silica
0.50 30% aqueous sodium hydroxide 0.35 Trehalose 0.50 N-acetyl
glucosamine 1.00 1.00 Water/purified Aribodopsis Thaliana
extract/lecithin 0.50 1.00 Aqueous solution acetyl hexapeptide-8
1.00 1.00 Yeast ferment extract 1.00 1.00
Water/lecithin/micrococcus lysate 0.50 0.50 Milk
protein/lactose/glucose/fructose 0.50 0.50 Saccharide isomerate
0.50 Whey protein 0.50 0.560 Water/butylene
glycol/lecithin/lauryldimonium 1.00 1.00 hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed
soy protein/lecithin/ xanthan gum/ascorbyl tocopheryl maleate
Glycerin/Padina Pavonica extract 0.10 0.10 Thermus Thermophillus
ferment/glycerin 0.05 Camelina Sativa seed oil 0.05
Water/gold/hydrolyzed wheat protein 0.001
Sorbitol/water/ascophyllum nodosum extract/ 0.25 asparagopsis
armata extract Butylene glycol 0.50 Boswellia Serrata extract 0.05
Calophyllum Inophyllum (tamanu) seed oil 0.05 Fragrance 0.20
FD&C yellow No. 5 (1% aqueous solution) 0.05 Aminomethyl
propanol 0.03 Sodim phosphate dibasic (10% aqueous solution) 0.75
Citric acid (10% aqueous solution) 0.008 Sodium acrylate/sodium
acryloyldimethyl taurate 1.00 1.00 copolymer/hydrogenated
polydecene/laureth-8 Ammonium acrylodimethyltaurate/VP copolymer
0.70 Water/butylene glycol/decarboxy carnosine HCl 0.50
Dimethyltolyl propylresorcinol 0.50
[0212] The composition is prepared by combining the water phase and
oil phase ingredients separately, then emulsifying to form an
emulsion.
Example 4
[0213] A water in silicone oil emulsion skin serum is prepared as
follows:
TABLE-US-00004 Ingredient w/w % Dimethicone/dimethicone PEG-10/15
crosspolymer 4.00 Dimethicone/dimethiconol 1.00 Dimethicone, 6 cst.
6.00 Trisiloxane (1.0 cst) 16.00 Water QS Phenoxyethanol 0.50
Caprylyl glycol/phenoxyethanol/hexylene glycol/iodopropynyl 0.50
butylcarbamate Water/polyaminobiguanide 0.20 Butylene glycol 2.00
Ethylhexylmethoxycrylene 1.00 Glycerin 10.00 Sodium citrate
0.50
[0214] The composition is prepared by combining the oil phase
ingredients and water phase ingredients separately, then mixing
well to emulsify.
Example 5
[0215] Oil-in-water (O/W) and water-in-oil (W/O) emulsion mascaras
are prepared as follows:
TABLE-US-00005 w/w % Ingredient O/W W/O Ethylenediamine/Stearyl
Dimer Tallate Copolymer - 10. 12.00 Uniclear 100VG, Arizona
Chemical PEG-30 Dipolyhydroxystearate 3.00 Sorbitan tristearate
1.00 -- Glyceryl stearate/PEG-100 stearate 1.00 -- Stearic acid
4.00 3.00 Cetyl acetate/Acetylated lanolin alcohol 1.00 Dioctyl
adipate/octyl stearate/octyl palmitate 1.00 -- Stearamide MEA
stearate 3.00 -- Glyceryl olivate -- 0.50 Dioctyl malate -- 1.00
Dimethicone 2.50 -- Cyclomethicone 5.00 -- Isododecane 11.00 38.00
Ethanol 0.50 -- Water QS QS Silica 1.00 -- Polysorbate 20 2.00 --
Acacia gum 0.25 -- Ethylhexyl methoxycrylene 0.50 0.50
Dimethicone/dimethicone PEG/PPG 15 crosspolymer 0.50 0.50 Black
iron oxide 8.00 10.00 Polyvinylpyrrolidone 1.00 -- Shellac 2.00 --
Acrylic copolymer solids dispersed in aqueous solution 5.00 7.00
Preservatives 0.80 --
[0216] The mascaras are made by combining the oily phase
ingredients except for the cyclomethicone and dimethicone and
heating to about 90.degree. C. until solids melt. The
cyclomethicone and dimethicone are added to the mixture and the
heat maintained at about 60.degree. C. The water phase ingredients
are combined and heated to about 60.degree. C. and combined with
the mixture. The phases are emulsified to form the final
mixture.
Example 6
[0217] Emulsion foundation makeup compositions are prepared as
follows:
TABLE-US-00006 Ingredient w/w % Cyclomethicone 16.90
Polysilicone-11 5.00 Cyclomethicone/dimethiconol 1.00 Dimethicone
copolyol 1.50 Sorbitan sesquioleate 1.50 Phenyl trimethicone 10.00
Dimethicone 10.00 Red Iron Oxide treated with methicone 0.50 Yellow
iron oxide treated with methicone 1.22 Black iron oxide treated
with methicone 0.13 Titanium dioxide coated with methicone 8.06
Water QS Butylene glycol 5.00 Ethylhexylmethoxycrylene 3.00 Xanthan
gum 0.10 Magnesium sulfate 1.00 Laureth-7 0.25
[0218] The water, oil and pigment phases are separately prepared by
low shear mixing. The phases are combined with high shear blending
to form a foundation makeup composition.
Example 7
[0219] Anhydrous emulsion skin treatment serums and gels may be
prepared as follows:
TABLE-US-00007 w/w % Ingredient A B C Pinus Pinaster bark extract
0.50 Santalum Album (sandalwood) 6.00 extract/phellodendron
amurense bark extract Calcium carbonate/Zea Mays (corn) 0.5
starch/Glycine Soja (soybean) extract Lauroyl lysine 8.00 Butylene
glycol 7.00 7.00 2.00 Ferulic acid 0.10 Glycerin 10.00 10.00 PEG-8
1.00 Polysorbate-80 0.50 Dicarylyl carbonate 22.00 PEG-60
hydrogenated castor oil 1.00 Simmondsia Chinensis (jojoba) seed oil
21.50 Isopropyl isostearate 5.00 Isononyl isononanoate/ethylhexyl
17.00 isononanoate Dextrin palmitate 7.00 Glyceryl
behenate/eicosadioate 0.50 Hinokitiol 0.10 PEG-10 dimethicone 2.00
2.00 Dimethicone/caprylyl methicone/phenyl 65.00 methicone Silica
7.50 Nordihydroguaiaretic acid 0.50 Camellia sinensis (green tea)
extract 2.00 Phenoxyethanol 0.20 0.20 0.50 Ethylhexylmethoxycrylene
0.50 1.00 1.50 Cyclomethicone/dimethicone/C30-45 2.00 olefin/phenyl
methicone Methyl trimethicone 3.00 3.00 Citrus grandis (grapefruit)
peel extract 0.20 Dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone cross 71.40 75.30
polymer/methyl trimethicone
[0220] The compositions were prepared by combining the
cyanodiphenylacrylate and glycerin. The remaining ingredients were
combined and mixed well, followed by addition of the
cyanodiphenylacrylate in glycerin.
Example 8
[0221] A foundation makeup is prepared as follows:
TABLE-US-00008 Ingredient w/w % Cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1
dimethicone/polyglyceryl-4 isostearate/ 1.00 hexyl laurate Red iron
oxide/methicone 0.60 Yellow iron oxide 1.47 Dimethicone
crosspolymer-3/isododecane 22.00 Polyethylene 4.00 Mica 10.37
Trifluoromethyl C1-4 alkyl dimethicone/cyclomehticone/ 6.00
propylene carbonate Titanium dioxide/methicone 6.80 Silica 0.001
Ethylhexylmethoxycrylene 1.00 Cyclopentasiloxane QS Phenyl
trimethicone 3.80 Dimethicone gum 0.20
Cyclomethicone/dimethicone/phenyl methicone 28.10 Mica/methyl
methacrylate crosspolymer 1.00 Iron oxides/methicone 0.20 Titanium
dioxide/iron oxides 0.01 Acrylates copolymer/diphenyl carbomethoxy
acetoxy 0.02 naphthopyran Titanium dioxide/trimyristin/hydrogenated
lecithin 3.50
[0222] The composition was prepared by grinding the pigments in a
portion of the oil. The remaining ingredient were combined with
heat and mixed well, incorporating the pigment grind into the
composition. The composition was a semi-solid beige colored
composition suitable for use as a foundation.
Example 9
[0223] A lipstick composition is prepared as follows:
TABLE-US-00009 Ingredient w/w % Aloe barbadensis extract/mineral
oil 0.50 Trimethylsiloxypheny dimethicone (PDM 1000) 1.00
Octyldodecyl stearoyl stearate 3.05 Ceresin wax 6.50 Petrolatum
32.05 Hydrogenated vegetable oils 14.00 Polybutene 0.25 Ozokerite
16.25 Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate 7.50 Propyl paraben 0.15 Phenyl
trimethicone 1.00 Bis-diglyceryl polyacyladipate 2.50
Ethylhexylmethoxycrylene 1.00 Cetyl esters QS Ethylhexyl salicylate
3.50 Dimethicone/dimethicone PEG/PPG 15 crosspolymer 1.00
Tocopheryl acetate 0.25
[0224] The composition is prepared by grinding the pigments in a
portion of the cetyl esters. The waxes and oils were separately
combined with heat and mixed well. The pigment grind was added to
the mixture and stirred well. The mixture is poured into molds and
allowed to cool to room temperature.
Example 10
[0225] Powder eyeshadow and blush compositions are prepared as
follows
TABLE-US-00010 w/w % Ingredient Shadow Blush Aluminum hydroxide
0.003 Sorbitan sesquioleate 0.001 Ascorbyl palmitate 0.04 Barium
sulfate 0.0005 Soybean extract 2.47 BHT 0.70 0.05 Lecithin 0.0004
Candelilla wax 5.85 Carnauba 1.76 Castor seed oil QS Polyglyceryl-3
beeswax 3.23 Simethicone 0.05 Dipentaerythrityl hexahydroxystearate
2.50 Isodecyl neopentanoate 0.05 Caprylic/capric triglycerides 9.90
Mica 4.75 Oleyl oleate 6.70 Octyl palmitate 7.00 Polybutene QS
Hydrogenated polyisobutene 30.13 Dextrin palmitate 11.00 Ozokerite
2.35 Synthetic wax 4.95 Diisostearyl malate 8.70 Bis-diglyceryl
polyacyladipate-2 1.47 Polydecene 2.10 0.35 Mica/titanium dioxide
0.80 Propyl paraben 0.10 Titanium dioxide 3.10 Tocopheryl acetate
0.04 Iron oxides 5.11 FD&C blue no. 1 aluminum lake 0.10 0.002
Dimethicone/dimethicone PEG/PPG 15 crosspolymer 1.00 1.00 D&C
Red No. 6 0.01 D&C Red No. 7 Calcium Lake 0.36 0.25 Fragrance
0.50 Ethylhexylmethoxycrylene 0.80 0.80
[0226] The compositions are prepared by grinding the pigments in a
portion of the oil. Separately, the oils and waxes were combined
with heat and mixed well. The pigment grind is added. The
compositions are pressed into pans.
[0227] While the invention has been described in connection with
the preferred embodiment, it is not intended to limit the scope of
the invention to the particular form set forth but, on the
contrary, it is intended to cover such alternatives, modifications,
and equivalents as may be included within the spirit and scope of
the invention as defined by the appended claims.
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