U.S. patent application number 14/417222 was filed with the patent office on 2015-07-23 for textile using a flat multilobar cross-section fiber.
The applicant listed for this patent is Toray Industries, Inc.. Invention is credited to Takashi Ida, Hidetoshi Takanaga, Kenji Yamanaka.
Application Number | 20150203997 14/417222 |
Document ID | / |
Family ID | 50027703 |
Filed Date | 2015-07-23 |
United States Patent
Application |
20150203997 |
Kind Code |
A1 |
Yamanaka; Kenji ; et
al. |
July 23, 2015 |
TEXTILE USING A FLAT MULTILOBAR CROSS-SECTION FIBER
Abstract
A fabric is subjected to calender processing on one or both
surfaces and includes a polyamide fiber as warp or/and woof having,
after calender processing, a single filament fineness of 0.5 to 2.5
dtex and a total fiber fineness of 5 to 50 dtex, the single
filament having a cross-sectional shape that is flat multifoliar
with 6 to 10 lobe parts and has a flat ratio (W) (.alpha./.beta.)
of 1.5 to 3.0, the fabric having a cover factor of 1200 to
2500.
Inventors: |
Yamanaka; Kenji; (Nagoya,
JP) ; Takanaga; Hidetoshi; (Nagoya, JP) ; Ida;
Takashi; (Nomi, JP) |
|
Applicant: |
Name |
City |
State |
Country |
Type |
Toray Industries, Inc. |
Tokyo |
|
JP |
|
|
Family ID: |
50027703 |
Appl. No.: |
14/417222 |
Filed: |
June 19, 2013 |
PCT Filed: |
June 19, 2013 |
PCT NO: |
PCT/JP2013/066793 |
371 Date: |
January 26, 2015 |
Current U.S.
Class: |
2/97 ; 112/415;
442/196 |
Current CPC
Class: |
D10B 2331/02 20130101;
D10B 2501/04 20130101; D03D 1/00 20130101; D03D 15/0083 20130101;
D01F 6/60 20130101; D03D 15/0088 20130101; D06C 15/00 20130101;
Y10T 442/3122 20150401; D01D 5/253 20130101; A41D 1/02
20130101 |
International
Class: |
D03D 15/00 20060101
D03D015/00; D06C 15/00 20060101 D06C015/00; A41D 1/02 20060101
A41D001/02; D01F 6/60 20060101 D01F006/60 |
Foreign Application Data
Date |
Code |
Application Number |
Aug 2, 2012 |
JP |
2012-172064 |
Claims
1-7. (canceled)
8. A fabric subjected to calender processing on one or both
surfaces, comprising a polyamide fiber used as warp or/and woof
having, after calender processing of the fabric, a single filament
fineness of 0.5 to 2.5 dtex and a total fiber fineness of 5 to 50
dtex, the single filament having a cross-sectional shape that is
flat multifoliar with 6 to 10 lobe parts and has a flat ratio (W)
(.alpha./.beta.) of 1.5 to 3.0, wherein a is a length of a line
segment A, which is a longest line segment connecting any two
apexes of convex portions of the flat multifoliar shape, and .beta.
is a length of a line segment B of a circumscribed quadrangle
formed by lines parallel to the line segment A and are tangent
lines containing outermost apexes (the angle between adjacent sides
is 90.degree.), the line segment B being other than the lines
parallel to the line segment A, the fabric having a cover factor of
1200 to 2500.
9. The fabric according to claim 8, wherein the polyamide fiber
has, before calender processing of the fabric, a single filament
fineness of 0.4 to 2.2 dtex and a total fiber fineness of 4 to 44
dtex, the single filament having a cross-sectional shape that is
flat multifoliar with 6 to 10 leaves and satisfies both equations:
Flat ratio (F)(a/b)=1.5 to 3.0 Modified shape ratio (F)(c/d)=1.0 to
8.0 wherein a is a length of a longest line segment A connecting
any two apexes of convex portions of the flat multifoliar shape; b
is a length of a line segment B of a circumscribed quadrangle
formed by lines parallel to the line segment A and are tangent
lines containing outermost apexes (the angle between adjacent sides
is 90.degree.), the line segment B being other than the lines
parallel to the line segment A; c is a length of a line segment C
connecting the apexes of adjacent convex portions of the largest
concavity and convexity among concavities and convexities formed by
the flat multifoliar shape; and d is a length of a perpendicular D
drawn from the bottom of a concave portion between the convex
portions to the line segment C connecting the apexes of the convex
portions
10. The fabric according to claim 8, having a tear strength of 5.0
N or more and an initial air permeability of 1.0 cc/cm.sup.2/s or
lower.
11. The fabric according to claim 8, having an air permeability
after fifty washing of 1.0 cc/cm.sup.2/s or lower.
12. The fabric according to claim 8, wherein the difference between
the initial air permeability and the air permeability after fifty
washing is 0.4 cc/cm.sup.2/s or less.
13. A sewn product obtained by using the fabric according to claim
8 at least in part.
14. A down shell or a down jacket obtained by using the fabric
according to claim 8 at least in part.
15. The fabric according to claim 9, having a tear strength of 5.0
N or more and an initial air permeability of 1.0 cc/cm.sup.2/s or
lower.
16. The fabric according to claim 9, having an air permeability
after fifty washing of 1.0 cc/cm.sup.2/s or lower.
17. The fabric according to claim 10, having an air permeability
after fifty washing of 1.0 cc/cm.sup.2/s or lower.
18. The fabric according to claim 9, wherein the difference between
the initial air permeability and the air permeability after fifty
washing is 0.4 cc/cm.sup.2/s or less.
19. The fabric according to claim 10, wherein the difference
between the initial air permeability and the air permeability after
fifty washing is 0.4 cc/cm.sup.2/s or less.
20. The fabric according to claim 11, wherein the difference
between the initial air permeability and the air permeability after
fifty washing is 0.4 cc/cm.sup.2/s or less.
21. A sewn product obtained by using the fabric according to claim
9 at least in part.
22. A sewn product obtained by using the fabric according to claim
10 at least in part.
23. A sewn product obtained by using the fabric according to claim
11 at least in part.
24. A sewn product obtained by using the fabric according to claim
12 at least in part.
25. A down shell or a down jacket obtained by using the fabric
according to claim 9 at least in part.
26. A down shell or a down jacket obtained by using the fabric
according to claim 10 at least in part.
27. A down shell or a down jacket obtained by using the fabric
according to claim 11 at least in part.
Description
TECHNICAL FIELD
[0001] This disclosure relates to a fabric that is lightweight and
thin and has high strength, low air permeability, and excellent
glossiness. More particularly, the disclosure relates to a fabric
that is lightweight and thin and has high strength, low air
permeability, and excellent glossiness, comprising a polyamide
fiber with a fine size and a flat multifoliar cross section.
BACKGROUND
[0002] As represented by the outdoor activity boom in recent years,
the interest of consumers in recreation has been increasing year by
year. Particularly in sportswear applications, demands are
increasing year by year with the proliferation of outdoor sports,
and there has been an increasing demand for reduction in weight and
thickness of, for example, tents, sleeping bags, materials of
canvas and the like, and clothing. A fabric used for sportswear
requires high strength, in particular, improved tear strength and
improved wear resistance. The fabric, particularly when subjected
to a coating process such as laminating, is less likely to cause
yarn slippage and thus tends to have reduced tear strength and,
accordingly, improvement in tear strength of a base fabric has been
increasingly desired.
[0003] Conventionally, aiming at reduction in weight and thickness,
fabrics made of a polyester multifilament, nylon multifilament, or
conjugate fiber thereof have often been used for down wear,
material for sports, and the like due to their excellent mechanical
properties. Such fabrics are soft, lightweight, and excellent in
properties such as windbreak, water-repellency, and fastness, and
thus have often been used for, for example, coats, blousons, golf
wear, and outdoor wear for sports.
[0004] JP 2010-196213 A discloses, as a means to solve the problem
of high strength and reduction in weight and thickness, a fabric
comprising a synthetic multifilament, wherein by subjecting the
fabric to calender processing on at least one surface,
monofilaments are pressed overlapped each other in at least a part
of the synthetic multifilament, the synthetic multifilament having
a fineness of 7 dtex to 44 dtex, wherein the monofilaments have a
Y-shaped or cruciform cross section, the fabric having a cover
factor of 1300 to 2200.
[0005] The fabric obtained by the method disclosed in JP
2010-196213 A, however, has a gloss with glitter and streaks
because of uniformly reflected light, and is unsatisfactory in
appearance such as glossiness of products, as well as
functionality. As described above, there are fabrics satisfying the
required properties such as high strength, reduced weight, and
reduced thickness in the prior art, but glossiness has not been
considered sufficiently, and there has been no fabric having a
delicate and elegant gloss. Furthermore, a sufficiently lasting
function has not been provided: e.g., a fabric shows a significant
decrease in air permeability after repeated washing, and suffers
from slipping-out of downs, for example, when used as a shell of a
down jacket.
[0006] It could therefore be helpful to provide a fabric that is
lightweight and thin, has high strength, low air permeability, and
excellent glossiness, and can be suitably used as a ticking in
sportswear, casual wear, and women's and men's wear represented,
for example, by down jackets, windbreakers, golf wear, and
rainwear; a sewn product obtained by using the fabric at least in
part; and a down shell and a down jacket obtained by using the
fabric at least in part.
SUMMARY
[0007] We thus provide:
[0008] (1) A fabric subjected to calender processing on one or both
surfaces, comprising a polyamide fiber used as warp or/and woof
having, after calender processing of the fabric, a single filament
fineness of 0.5 to 2.5 dtex and a total fiber fineness of 5 to 50
dtex, the single filament having a cross-sectional shape that is
flat multifoliar with 6 to 10 lobe parts and has a flat ratio (W)
(.alpha./.beta.) of 1.5 to 3.0, wherein a is a length of a line
segment A, which is a longest line segment connecting any two
apexes of convex portions of the flat multifoliar shape, and 0 is a
length of a line segment B of a circumscribed quadrangle formed by
lines that are parallel to the line segment A and are tangent lines
containing outermost apexes (the angle between adjacent sides is
90.degree.), the line segment B being other than the lines that are
parallel to the line segment A, the fabric having a cover factor of
1200 to 2500.
[0009] (2) The fabric according to (1) above, wherein the polyamide
fiber has, before calender processing of the fabric, a single
filament fineness of 0.4 to 2.2 dtex and a total fiber fineness of
4 to 44 dtex, the single filament having a cross-sectional shape
that is flat multifoliar with 6 to 10 leaves and satisfies both
equations below:
Flat ratio (F)(a/b)=1.5 to 3.0
Modified shape ratio (F)(c/d)=1.0 to 8.0
[0010] wherein a is a length of a longest line segment A connecting
any two apexes of convex portions of the flat multifoliar shape; b
is a length of a line segment B of a circumscribed quadrangle
formed by lines that are parallel to the line segment A and are
tangent lines containing outermost apexes (the angle between
adjacent sides is 90.degree.), the line segment B being other than
the lines that are parallel to the line segment A; c is a length of
a line segment C connecting the apexes of adjacent convex portions
of the largest concavity and convexity among concavities and
convexities formed by the flat multifoliar shape; and d is a length
of a perpendicular D drawn from the bottom of a concave portion
between the convex portions to the line segment C connecting the
apexes of the convex portions.
[0011] (3) The fabric according to (1) or (2) above, having a tear
strength of 5.0 N or more and an initial air permeability of 1.0
cc/cm.sup.2/s or lower.
[0012] (4) The fabric according to any one of (1) to (3) above,
having an air permeability after fifty washing of 1.0 cc/cm.sup.2/s
or lower.
[0013] (5) The fabric according to any one of (1) to (4) above,
wherein the difference between the initial air permeability and the
air permeability after fifty washing is 0.4 cc/cm.sup.2/s or
less.
[0014] (6) A sewn product obtained by using the fabric according to
any one of (1) to (5) above at least in part.
[0015] (7) A down shell or a down jacket obtained by using the
fabric according to any one of (1) to (5) above at least in
part.
[0016] We provide a fabric that is lightweight and thin and has
high strength, low air permeability, and excellent glossiness with
no glitter or streaks. We further provide a fabric that can be
suitably used as a ticking for, for example, sportswear, casual
wear, and women's and men's wear represented, for example, by down
jackets, windbreakers, golf wear, and rainwear. We also provide a
sewn product obtained by using the fabric of the present invention
in part. We further provide a down shell and a down jacket obtained
by using the fabric of the present invention in part.
BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS
[0017] FIG. 1 is a SEM photograph of a fabric transverse cross
section illustrating our fabric.
[0018] FIG. 2 is a cross-sectional view illustrating the outline of
the cross-sectional shape of a single filament constituting our
fabric.
[0019] FIGS. 3 (a-c) are schematic cross-sectional views
illustrating the shape of the spinneret outlet port used in
Examples.
[0020] FIGS. 4 (a-c) are schematic cross-sectional views
illustrating the shape of the spinneret outlet port used in
Comparative Examples.
[0021] FIG. 5 is a schematic cross-sectional view of the fabric
including fibers having a Y-shaped cross section obtained in
Comparative Example.
DESCRIPTION OF SYMBOLS
[0022] 1 to 3: Polyamide single filaments located at the fabric
surface after calender processing
[0023] 4 to 6: Polyamide single filaments not located at the fabric
surface
[0024] A: Longest line segment connecting any two apexes of convex
portions of a flat multifoliar shape
[0025] B: Line segment of a circumscribed quadrangle formed by
lines that are parallel to the line segment A and are tangent lines
containing outermost apexes (the angle between adjacent sides is
90.degree.), the line segment B being other than the lines that are
parallel to the line segment A
[0026] C: Line segment connecting the apexes of adjacent convex
portions of the largest concavity and convexity formed by the flat
multifoliar shape
[0027] D: Perpendicular drawn from the bottom of a concave portion
between the convex portions to the line segment C connecting the
apexes of the convex portions
[0028] e: Slit length of flat eight-leave-shaped outlet port used
in Example 1
[0029] f: Slit length of flat eight-leave-shaped outlet port used
in Example 1
[0030] g: Slit length of flat six-leave-shaped outlet port used in
Example 4
[0031] h: Slit length of flat six-leave-shaped outlet port used in
Example 4
[0032] i: Slit length of flat ten-leave-shaped outlet port used in
Example 5
[0033] j: Slit length of flat ten-leave-shaped outlet port used in
Example 5
[0034] k: Slit length of Y-shaped outlet port used in Comparative
Example 2
[0035] l: Slit length of cross-shaped outlet port used in
Comparative Example 3
[0036] m: Slit length of flat twelve-leave-shaped outlet port used
in Comparative Example 6
[0037] n: Slit length of flat twelve-leave-shaped outlet port used
in Comparative Example 6
[0038] Area O: Area where a concave portion of a single filament
and a convex portion of an adjacent single filament overlap each
other
[0039] Area X: Area where a concave portion of a single filament
and a concave portion of an adjacent single filament overlap each
other
DETAILED DESCRIPTION
[0040] The polyamide constituting the fabric is what is called a
polymer in which hydrocarbon groups are linked by amide bonds to
the main chain, and examples include polycaprolactam (nylon 6),
polyhexamethylene adipamide (nylon 66), polyhexamethylene
sebacamide (nylon 6,10), polytetramethylene adipamide (nylon 4,6),
polypentamethylene adipamide (nylon 5,6), polyamides formed by
condensation polymerization of 1,4-cyclohexanebis(methylamine) and
a linear aliphatic dicarboxylic acid, copolymers thereof, and
mixtures thereof. In terms of stainability and color development,
nylon 6 and nylon 66 are preferred, and nylon 6 is more
preferred.
[0041] The degree of polymerization of the above polyamide, which
may be set as appropriate depending on the properties required for
fabrics, is preferably 2 or more in terms of relative viscosity in
98% sulfuric acid, more preferably 3 or more. A relative viscosity
in 98% sulfuric acid of 3 or more allows spinning to form a single
filament whose cross-sectional shape is flat multifoliar with 6 to
10 leaves, and achieves stable spinning with a flat ratio and a
modified shape ratio controlled in a specific range. In particular,
the relative viscosity in 98% sulfuric acid is more preferably 3.3
or more. The upper limit of the relative viscosity in 98% sulfuric
acid is preferably not more than 7 from the standpoint of
spinnability.
[0042] Additionally, additives to improve productivity, for
example, improve heat resistance (e.g., light stabilizers, heat
stabilizers, oxidation stabilizers, antistatic agents, terminal
regulators, and dyeability-improving agents) and additives to
provide functionality (e.g., ultraviolet ray absorbing agents,
ultraviolet ray shielding agents, contact cold-sensation agents,
and antibacterial agents) may be added, provided that the additives
are in an amount and of type that do not impair the object of the
present invention. However, the average particle diameter of the
additives is preferably 1 .mu.m or less to not reduce spinnability
or durability. Inorganic particles including white pigments are
added preferably in an amount of not more than 2.0% by mass
relative to the fiber, more preferably in an amount of not more
than 1.0% by mass, although these values are not limitative.
[0043] The polyamide fiber after calender processing constituting
the fabric will now be described in more detail.
[0044] For the polyamide fiber after calender processing
constituting the fabric, the cross-sectional shape of a single
filament is required to be flat multifoliar with 6 to 10 lobe parts
and have a flat ratio (W) of 1.5 to 3.0.
[0045] FIG. 1 is a SEM photograph (.times.600) of a fabric
transverse cross section illustrating the fabric. As shown in FIG.
1, polyamide single filaments located at the fabric surface after
calender processing (e.g., 1 to 3) are smooth. Thus, in determining
the flat ratio (W), polyamide single filaments not located at the
fabric surface (e.g., 4 to 6) were used as single filaments of the
polyamide fiber after calender processing. For the flat ratio, the
average of measurements of five randomly-selected polyamide single
filaments not located at the fabric surface was used.
[0046] "Flat ratio (W)" as used herein, as illustrated by the
outline of the cross-sectional shape of a single filament shown in
FIG. 2, is defined as a flat ratio of .alpha./.beta., wherein a is
a length of a longest line segment A connecting any two apexes of
convex portions of the flat multifoliar shape, and .beta. is a
length of a line segment B of a circumscribed quadrangle formed by
lines that are parallel to the line segment A and are tangent lines
containing outermost apexes (the angle between adjacent sides is
90.degree.), the line segment B being other than the lines that are
parallel to the line segment A. A flat ratio (W) (.alpha./.beta.)
of 1.5 to 3.0 allows single filaments in the fabric produced to be
overlapped with a small gap therebetween, leading to reduced air
permeability. Furthermore, a flat ratio in this range can achieve
excellent glossiness and sufficient strength for practical use
simultaneously. A flat ratio of less than 1.5 reduces the surface
area, failing to achieve sufficient glossiness. A flat ratio of
more than 3.0 leads to high polymer anisotropy, resulting in a
glittering gloss, and further, failing to provide sufficient
strength for practical use. The flat ratio is preferably 1.5 to
2.8.
[0047] The number of lobe parts as used herein is a value obtained
by dividing the number of inflexion points in a fiber cross section
by 2. Namely, in a multifoliar cross section, convex portions
forming lobe parts and concave portions between the lobe parts are
typically alternated, each having an inflexion point, thus the
number of lobe parts can be counted by dividing the number of
inflexion points by 2. As shown in FIG. 1, polyamide single
filaments located at the fabric surface after calender processing
(e.g., 1 to 3) are smooth. Thus, in determining the number of lobe
parts, polyamide single filaments not located at the fabric surface
(e.g., 4 to 6) were used as single filaments of the polyamide fiber
after calender processing.
[0048] For the number of lobe parts, the average of measurements of
five randomly-selected polyamide single filaments not located at
the fabric surface was used. Six to ten lobe parts provide
favorable glossiness. In particular, 6 to 8 lobe parts provide
delicate gloss, which is preferred, and 8 lobe parts provide
high-quality gloss, which is a more preferred aspect. When the
number of lobe parts is less than 6, an artificial gloss with
glitter is provided, giving an appearance like streaks. When the
number of lobe parts is more than 10, light scatters to cause a dim
gloss, failing to provide a satisfactory gloss.
[0049] When the flat ratio (W) and the number of lobe parts are in
such ranges, movement of single filaments tends to be restricted,
and upon being pressed and fixed by calender processing,
concavities and convexities of the single filaments overlap each
other with a small gap therebetween to enhance the air
permeability-reducing effect, leading to reduced air permeability.
For example, in a Y-shaped cross section or a cruciform cross
section, although a portion unlikely to cause yarn slippage where a
concave portion and a convex portion overlap each other (area O) is
formed depending on the direction in which single filaments
overlap, a portion prone to yarn slippage where a concave portion
and a concave portion overlap each other (area X) is also formed in
decent numbers depending on the direction in which single filaments
overlap, resulting in increased air permeability or causing yarn
slippage (FIG. 5). In the fabric, the cross section of a single
filament has appropriate concavities and convexities, due to which
the fabric surface tends to become uniformly smooth by calender
processing, and favorable glossiness is provided.
[0050] The polyamide fiber after calender processing constituting
the fabric is required to have a single filament fineness of 0.5 to
2.5 dtex. A single filament fineness in this range provides a
fabric having sufficient strength for practical use and low air
permeability. A single filament fineness of less than 0.5 dtex
fails to provide sufficient strength for practical use, and a
single filament fineness of more than 2.5 dtex fails to provide low
air permeability. The single filament fineness is preferably 0.5 to
2.0 dtex.
[0051] Further, the polyamide fiber after calender processing
constituting the fabric is required to have a total fiber fineness
of 5 to 50 dtex from the standpoint of lightness of the fabric in
use for down wear or material for sports. A total fiber fineness in
this range provides a fabric that is lightweight and thin and has
sufficient strength for practical use. A total fiber fineness of
less than 5 dtex fails to provide a fabric that has sufficient
strength for practical use, and a total fiber fineness of more than
50 dtex fails to provide a fabric that is lightweight and thin. The
total fiber fineness is preferably 5 to 45 dtex, more preferably 5
to 35 dtex.
[0052] The total fiber fineness as used herein was measured as
described below: two lines were drawn on a fabric in the warp or
woof direction at an interval of 100 cm; the fabric was
disentangled into warp or woof; a load of 1/10 g/dtex was applied
to the disentangled yarn; and a length (Lcm) between two points was
measured. The yarn was cut at the two points (L), and its weight
(Wg) was measured to calculate the fineness by the following
equation.
Total fiber fineness (disentangled yarn of
fabric)=W/L.times.1000000 (dtex)
[0053] The single filament fineness is a value obtained by dividing
the total fiber fineness by the number of filaments.
[0054] The polyamide fiber used for the fabric before calender
processing constituting the fabric will now be described in more
detail.
[0055] For the polyamide fiber used for the fabric before calender
processing constituting the fabric, the cross-sectional shape of a
single filament preferably is flat multifoliar with 6 to 10 leaves
and has a flat ratio (F) (a/b) of 1.5 to 3.0 and a modified shape
ratio (F) (c/d) of 1.0 to 8.0. Furthermore, when the
cross-sectional shape of a single filament is 6 to 10 leaves, it is
easy to provide favorable glossiness. In particular, a cross
section of 6 to 8 leaves is more preferred because it provides a
delicate gloss, and a flat multifoliar shape with 8 leaves is a
most preferred aspect because it provides a high-quality gloss.
[0056] "Flat ratio (F)" and "modified shape ratio (F)" as used
herein, as illustrated by the outline of the cross-sectional shape
of a single filament shown in FIG. 2, are defined as a flat ratio
of a/b and a modified shape ratio of c/d, respectively, wherein a
is a length of a longest line segment A connecting any two apexes
of convex portions of the flat multifoliar shape; b is a length of
a line segment B of a circumscribed quadrangle formed by the lines
that are parallel to the line segment A and are tangent lines
containing outermost apexes (the angle between adjacent sides is
90.degree.), the line segment B being other than the lines that are
parallel to the line segment A; c is a length of a line segment C
connecting the apexes of adjacent convex portions of the largest
concavity and convexity formed by the flat multifoliar shape; and d
is a length of a perpendicular D drawn from the bottom of a concave
portion between the convex portions to the line segment C
connecting the apexes of the convex portions. For the cross section
of single filaments constituting yarn, five single filaments are
randomly selected from a cross-sectional photograph (.times.400)
taken by using a light microscope, and a/b and c/d are calculated.
Their average values are used as the flat ratio (F) and the
modified shape ratio (F).
[0057] A flat ratio (F) (a/b) of 1.5 to 3.0 allows single filaments
in the fabric produced to be overlapped with a small gap
therebetween, leading to reduced air permeability. Furthermore, a
flat ratio in this range can achieve excellent glossiness and
sufficient strength for practical use simultaneously. The flat
ratio is preferably 1.5 to 2.8.
[0058] The modified shape ratio (F) (c/d) represents the size of a
concave portion between leaves in the flat multifoliar shape. A
higher modified shape ratio (F) means a shallower concave portion,
and a lower modified shape ratio (F) means a deeper concave
portion. To keep gaps between single filaments during fabric
formation small and facilitate overlapping to increase the effect
of low air permeability, the modified shape ratio (F) is preferably
8.0 or less.
[0059] On the other hand, the modified shape ratio (F) is
preferably 1.0 or more to maintain the strength of a polyamide that
forms a single filament. In terms of glossiness and texture, the
modified shape ratio (F) is more preferably 2 to 7.
[0060] By using filaments of flat multifoliar cross-sectional shape
having a flat ratio (F) and a modified shape ratio (F) in such
ranges in advance, movement of single filaments tends to be
restricted, and upon being pressed and fixed by calender
processing, concavities and convexities of the single filaments
overlap each other with a small gap therebetween to enhance the air
permeability-reducing effect, leading to reduced air permeability.
Furthermore, since the cross section of the single filaments is
multifoliar, the concavities and convexities of the single
filaments certainly engage each other regardless of the direction
in which the single filaments overlap to prevent yarn slippage of
the fabric, exerting an outstanding air permeability-reducing
effect even after washing. Furthermore, the cross section of the
single filaments has appropriate concavities and convexities, due
to which the fabric surface tends to become uniformly smooth by
calender processing, and favorable glossiness is easily
provided.
[0061] The polyamide fiber used for the fabric before calender
processing constituting the fabric of the present invention
preferably has a single filament fineness of 0.4 to 2.2 dtex. A
single filament fineness of less than 0.4 dtex is too thin and
makes it difficult to provide sufficient strength for practical
use. A single filament fineness of more than 2.2 dtex makes it
difficult to provide low air permeability. The single filament
fineness is more preferably 0.4 to 1.8 dtex.
[0062] Further, the polyamide fiber used for the fabric before
calender processing constituting the fabric preferably has a total
fiber fineness of 4 to 44 dtex from the standpoint of lightness of
the fabric in use for down wear or material for sports. A total
fiber fineness of less than 4 dtex makes it difficult to provide a
fabric that has sufficient strength for practical use. A total
fiber fineness of more than 44 dtex makes it difficult to provide a
fabric that is lightweight and thin. The total fiber fineness is
more preferably 4 to 40 dtex, still more preferably 4 to 31
dtex.
[0063] In the fabric, the polyamide fiber having a flat multifoliar
cross section described above is used as warp or/and woof. The
fiber can be of any form produced by a known method used also for
common synthetic fibers such as finished yarn and twisted yarn.
[0064] The fabric is produced by a known method (weaving and dying)
used also for common synthetic fibers. A preferred production
method will now be given below.
[0065] In a weaving process, a loom beam for warp is first
prepared. Specifically, a warp beam is prepared with a beam warper
and then sized, if necessary, via a sizing machine, and a beamer is
used to prepare a loom beam with a desired number of yarns. When
sizing is unnecessary, a loom beam may be prepared directly from a
warp beam using a beamer. Alternatively, a loom beam may be
prepared after a sizing beam is directly prepared using a warper
sizer. Subsequently, the loom beam is subjected to leasing and
drawing and set on a loom, and woof is picked to weave a
fabric.
[0066] The loom may be any type of loom such as a water-jet loom,
an air jet loom, a rapier loom, and a gripper loom. The weave of
the fabric may be a plain weave, a twill weave, a warp rib weave, a
derivative weave thereof, or a combined weave thereof depending on
the intended use of the fabric, and the plain weave with many
crossover points is preferred to promote low air permeability. For
textures for down proof wear, textures for outdoor wear, textures
for windbreakers, and the like, which require enhanced tear
strength, a weave forming a grid pattern is preferred, and a
rip-stop weave having rip-stop portions is more preferred.
[0067] The fabric is required to have a cover factor (hereinafter
also referred to as CF for short) of 1200 to 2500. A CF in this
range provides a fabric that is lightweight and thin and has low
air permeability. A CF of less than 1200 provides a fabric that is
lightweight and thin, but this fabric is unlikely to be
satisfactory in low air permeability. A CF of more than 2500
provides low air permeability but makes it difficult to provide a
fabric that is lightweight and thin. "Cover factor (CF)" as used
herein is calculated by the equation below:
CF=T.times.(DT).sup.1/2+W.times.(DW).sup.1/2
[0068] wherein T and W represent ends and picks per inch of the
fabric, and DT and DW represent a total fiber fineness (dtex) of
warp and woof constituting the fabric.
[0069] In a dying process, refinement, presetting, dying, and
finish setting are performed. For dying, acid dyes and metal
complex dyes used for polyamide fibers can preferably be used.
After the dying, processing for functionalization may be performed.
In processing to provide a functionalizing agent, the
functionalizing agent is provided, for example, by dipping
(padding), dried, and then cured. For example, for down proof wear,
outdoor wear, and windbreakers, calender processing and
water-repellent finishing are performed for functionalization, and
examples of water-repellent agents that can be used include
water-repellent agents such as organic fluorine compounds,
silicones, and paraffin.
[0070] The fabric is required to be subjected to calender
processing on one or both surfaces. In calender processing, a
conventional calender processing machine is used, and in recent
years, thermal calender processing has been commonly practiced. A
fabric having an air permeability at a desired value can be
obtained by appropriately selecting the heat shrinkage percentage
of fibers, gray fabric density, and processing conditions such as
heating temperature, pressure, and treating time in heating and
pressing. These conditions, which are related to one another, are
appropriately at, typically, 130.degree. C. to 210.degree. C.
(heating roll temperature), 98 kN to 149 kN (heating roll load),
and 10 to 30 m/min (fabric travel speed), while taking the heat
shrinkage percentage of fibers into consideration.
[0071] The fabric preferably has a tear strength of 5.0 N or more,
more preferably 6.0 N or more. "Tear strength" as used herein
refers, when the polyamide fiber having a flat multifoliar cross
section is used as warp, to a tear strength in the longitudinal
direction, and, when the polyamide fiber having a flat multifoliar
cross section is used as woof, to a tear strength in the transverse
direction. When the polyamide fiber of flat multifoliar shape is
used as warp and woof, the tear strength refers to tear strengths
in the longitudinal direction and the transverse direction. A tear
strength of 5.0 N or more provides a fabric that has sufficient
strength for practical use. To provide a fabric that is lightweight
and thin and has high strength, the tear strength is preferably 40
N or less, more preferably 30 N or less.
[0072] The fabric preferably has an air permeability (also referred
to as initial air permeability) of 1.0 cc/cm.sup.2/s or lower, more
preferably 0.8 cc/cm.sup.2/s or lower. An air permeability of 1.0
cc/cm.sup.2/s or lower provides a fabric having excellent low air
permeability. When the fabric is used as a ticking for, for
example, down wear, down jackets, and sportswear, the air
permeability is desirably 0.3 cc/cm.sup.2/s or higher to provide a
moderately low air permeability that facilitates deformation
including inflation and deflation due to the entrance and exit of
air.
[0073] The fabric preferably has an air permeability after fifty
washing of 1.0 cc/cm.sup.2/s or lower, more preferably 0.9
cc/cm.sup.2/s or lower. An air permeability after fifty washing of
1.0 cc/cm.sup.2/s or lower cannot cause slipping-out of downs from
the fabric during washing or slipping-out of downs due to yarn
slippage of the fabric after washing, providing a fabric with
excellent down proolhess. An air permeability after fifty washing
of higher than 1.0 cc/cm.sup.2/s is likely to cause slipping-out of
downs, and exhibits irregularities on the fabric surface due to
yarn slippage of the fabric, which can cause significant
degradation of the quality, for example, of down jackets.
[0074] For the fabric, by using filaments of flat multifoliar
cross-sectional shape having a flat ratio (F) and a modified shape
ratio (F) in the above-described ranges in advance, movement of
single filaments tends to be further restricted, and upon being
pressed and fixed by calender processing, concavities and
convexities of the single filaments overlap each other with a small
gap therebetween to enhance the air permeability-reducing effect,
leading to reduced air permeability. Furthermore, since the cross
section of the single filaments is multifoliar, the concavities and
convexities of the single filaments certainly engage each other
regardless of the direction in which the single filaments overlap
to prevent yarn slippage of the fabric, exerting an outstanding air
permeability-reducing effect even after washing. For example, in a
Y-shaped cross section fiber or a cruciform cross section fiber, a
portion prone to yarn slippage where a concave portion and a
concave portion overlap each other is formed depending on the
direction in which single filaments overlap, leading to increased
air permeability or causing yarn slippage (FIG. 5).
[0075] Furthermore, the difference between the initial air
permeability and the air permeability after fifty washing of the
fabric is preferably 0.4 cc/cm.sup.2/s or less. The fabric, by
including filaments of flat multifoliar cross-sectional shape that
has a flat ratio (F) and a modified shape ratio (F) in the ranges
mentioned above and having a CF in the range mentioned above, is
able to maintain low air permeability after washing and keep a
high-gloss and uniform surface because of the yarn
slippage-preventing effect of concavities and convexities of single
filaments, thereby maintaining the quality, for example, of down
jackets.
[0076] We provide a fabric that is lightweight and thin and has
high strength, low air permeability, and excellent glossiness with
no glitter or streaks. Furthermore, we provide a fabric that can be
suitably used for a ticking of, for example, sportswear, casual
wear, and women's and men's wear represented, for example, by down
jackets, windbreakers, golf wear, and rainwear.
[0077] The sewn product is characterized by being obtained by using
the fabric in part. Its applications include, but are not limited
to, sportswear, casual wear, and women's and men's wear
represented, for example, by down jackets, windbreakers, golf wear,
and rainwear.
[0078] Further, the down shell and the down jacket is characterized
by being obtained by using the fabric according to the present
invention at least in part.
EXAMPLES
[0079] The fabric will now be described in detail with reference to
examples. The measured values in the examples were determined
according to the following methods.
A. Relative Viscosity
[0080] A weighed sample is dissolved in 98 mass % concentrated
sulfuric acid to a sample concentration (C) of 1 g/100 ml, and the
time-of-fall seconds (T1) of the resulting solution is measured at
a temperature of 25.degree. C. using an Ostwald viscometer.
Similarly, the time-of-fall seconds (T2) of 98 mass % concentrated
sulfuric acid containing no sample is measured at a temperature of
25.degree. C., and a relative viscosity in 98% sulfuric acid
(.eta.r) of the sample is calculated by the following equation.
(.eta.r)=(T1/T2)+{1.891.times.(1.000-C)}
B. Total Fiber Fineness and Single Filament Fineness
(a) Nylon 6 Fiber
[0081] A fiber sample is wound around a counter reel with a
circumference of 1.125 m 400 times at a tension of 1/30
cN.times.displayed decitex to prepare a skein. The skein is dried
at a temperature of 105.degree. C. for 60 minutes, transferred to a
desiccator, and allowed to cool in an environment of 20.degree. C.
and 55 RH for 30 minutes. The mass of the skein is measured, and a
mass per 10000 m is calculated from the value obtained. The total
fiber fineness is calculated using the standard moisture regain
(4.5%) of nylon 6. Total fiber fineness is defined as the average
of four measurements. Single filament fineness is defined as a
value obtained by dividing the total fiber fineness by the number
of filaments.
(b) Disentangled Yarn of Fabric
[0082] Two lines are drawn on a fabric in the warp or woof
direction at an interval of 100 cm, and the warp or woof of the
fabric between the lines is disentangled. Next, a provisional total
fiber fineness is calculated in order to determine a measuring
load. A load of 2 g is applied to the disentangled yarn obtained,
and a length (Lcm) between two points is measured, after which the
yarn is cut at the two points (Lcm) to measure its weight (Wg), and
a provisional total fiber fineness is calculated by the following
equation. Next, in contrast to the provisional total fiber
fineness, a load of 1/10 g/dtex is applied, and a length and weight
between two points are measured similarly to the above, after which
a total fiber fineness is calculated by the following equation.
Total fiber fineness (disentangled yarn of
fabric)=W/L.times.1000000 (dtex)
[0083] Single filament fineness (dtex) is defined as a value
obtained by dividing the total fiber fineness by the number of
filaments. The same measurement was repeated five times, and its
average are shown in the results.
C. Cross-Sectional Shape of Nylon 6 Fiber
[0084] A cross-sectional shape was observed using a light
microscope at a magnification of 400. For a longest line segment A
connecting any two apexes of convex portions of the flat
multifoliar shape, a line segment B of a circumscribed quadrangle
formed by lines that are parallel to the line segment A and are
tangent lines containing outermost apexes (the angle between
adjacent sides is 90.degree.), the line segment B being other than
the lines that are parallel to the line segment A, a line segment C
connecting the apexes of adjacent convex portions in the largest
concavity and convexity formed by the flat multifoliar shape, and a
perpendicular D drawn from the bottom of a concave portion between
the convex portions to the line segment C connecting the apexes of
the convex portions, their lengths were measured, and calculation
was performed by the following equations.
Flat ratio (F)=(a/b)
[0085] a: length of line segment A, b: length of line segment B
Modified shape ratio (F)=(c/d)
[0086] c: length of line segment C, d: length of line segment D
[0087] According to the method described above, a flat ratio (F)
and a modified shape ratio (F) were calculated, and the averages of
randomly-selected five filaments were used as the flat ratio (F)
and the modified shape ratio (F) of yarn.
D. Cross-Sectional Shape of Fabric
[0088] Using a cross-sectional photograph of the fabric obtained by
SEM at a magnification of 600, the cross-sectional shape of the
fiber was observed to determine a flat ratio (W) and the number of
concavities and convexities according to the method described
above. From single filaments constituting the fabric, five
filaments not exposed at the surface subjected to calender
processing were randomly selected and evaluated, and its average
value was used as the flat ratio (W) and the number of inflexion
points of the polyamide fiber.
(a) Flat Ratio (W)
[0089] Flat ratio (W) is defined as a/(3, wherein a is a length of
a longest line segment A connecting any two apexes of convex
portions of the flat multifoliar shape), and .beta. is a length of
a line segment B of a circumscribed quadrangle formed by lines that
are parallel to the line segment A and are tangent lines containing
outermost apexes (the angle between adjacent sides is 90.degree.),
the line segment B being other than the lines that are parallel to
the line segment A (see FIG. 2).
(b) The Number of Lobe Parts
[0090] The number of lobe parts is defined as a value obtained by
dividing the number of inflexion points in a fiber cross section by
2.
E. Tear Strength
[0091] The tear strength of the fabric was measured in both the
warp direction and the woof direction in accordance with the tear
strength JIS D method (wet grab method) stipulated in JIS L 1096
(2010) 8.14.1.
F. Density of Fabric
[0092] The density of the fabric was measured in accordance with
JIS L 1096 (2010) 8.3.1 based on corrected weight.
G. Air Permeability
[0093] The air permeability of the fabric was measured in
accordance with the air permeability A method (Frajour type method)
stipulated in JIS L 1096 (2010) 8.26.1.
(a) Initial Air Permeability
[0094] For the fabric before washing, air permeability was measured
three times, and initial air permeability was evaluated by its
average value.
(b) Air Permeability After Fifty Washing
[0095] The fabric was washed in accordance with F-2 method
described in dimensional change of fabric in JIS L 1096 (2010)
8.64.4. Fifty washing means that washing-spinning-drying is
repeated 50 times. Air permeability after fifty washing of the
fabric was evaluated by the average of three measurements of air
permeability after fifty washing.
H. Glossiness
[0096] The glossiness of the fabric was visually evaluated by five
experts relatively to Comparative Example 1, and rated on a 5-point
scale. For a fabric subjected to calender processing on only one
surface, the surface subjected to calender processing was
evaluated. Rating 4 or higher was considered as acceptable.
[0097] 5: Having a high-quality delicate gloss
[0098] 4: Having a mild gloss
[0099] 3: Having a normal gloss (Comparative Example 1)
[0100] 2: Having slight glitter or streaks
[0101] 1: Having glitter or streaks
I. Down Proof Test
[0102] The down proof test was carried out using a fabric after
fifty washing as follows: a sample of 35 cm.times.35 cm filled
inside with 40 g of feathers was prepared (seams being sealed with
resin); this sample was placed in a tumble dryer together with five
rubber tubes stipulated in JIS L 1076 (2010) A method, and the
tumble dryer was operated for 60 minutes without heating; and after
the operation completed, the sample was taken out, and the degree
of slipping-out of feathers was visually rated on a 5-point scale
below. Rating 4 or higher was considered as acceptable.
[0103] 5: 3 feathers or less
[0104] 4: 4 to 10 feathers
[0105] 3: 11 to 30 feathers
[0106] 2: 31 to 50 feathers
[0107] 1: 51 feathers or more
J. Overall Evaluation
[0108] The glossiness and the down proofness were summed, and 8 or
higher was considered as acceptable.
Example 1
Preparation of Nylon 6 Fiber Having Flat Cross Section with Eight
Leaves
[0109] Nylon 6 with a relative viscosity of 3.5 was melt-extruded
through a spinneret having an outlet port with a shape as shown in
FIG. 3(a) (slit width: 0.07 mm, slit length ratio: e/f=5/2) at a
spinning temperature of 285.degree. C., cooled, oiled, entangled,
and taken up with a godet roller of 2800 m/min. Subsequently, the
resultant was stretched to 1.4 times, heat-set at a temperature of
155.degree. C., and wound up at a rate of 3500 m/min to obtain a
nylon 6 fiber of 33 dtex and 26 filaments having a flat cross
section with eight leaves.
[0110] A flat ratio (F) and a modified shape ratio (F) was
calculated from a cross-sectional photograph of the nylon 6 fiber
obtained. The results are shown in Table 1. Preparation of Nylon 6
Fiber of 22 Dtex and 20 Filaments Having Round Cross Section
[0111] Nylon 6 with a relative viscosity of 3.0 was melt-extruded
through a round-hole spinneret at a spinning temperature of
280.degree. C., cooled, oiled, entangled, and taken up with a godet
roller of 2480 m/min. Subsequently, the resultant was stretched to
1.7 times, heat-set at a temperature of 155.degree. C., and wound
up at a rate of 4000 m/min to obtain a nylon 6 fiber of 22 dtex and
20 filaments having a round cross section.
Production of Fabric
[0112] Using the nylon 6 fiber having a flat cross section with
eight leaves as woof, and the nylon 6 fiber of 22 dtex and 20
filaments having a round cross section as warp, a fabric was woven
in a plain weave at 188 ends per inch and 135 picks per inch.
[0113] According to a conventional method, the gray fabric obtained
was refined with a solution containing caustic soda (NaOH) in an
amount of 2 g per liter using an open soaper, dried at a
temperature of 120.degree. C. using a cylinder dryer, preset at
170.degree. C., stained with a jigger dying machine, impregnated
(padded) with a fluorine resin compound, dried (temperature:
120.degree. C.), and subjected to finish setting (temperature:
175.degree. C.). Thereafter, the resultant was subjected to
calender processing (processing conditions: cylinder processing,
heating roll surface temperature: 180.degree. C., heating roll
load: 147 kN, fabric travel speed: 20 m/min) once on both surfaces
to obtain a fabric. The physical properties and evaluation results
of the fabric obtained are shown in Tables 2 and 3. The fabric was
satisfactory. A SEM photograph of a transverse cross section of the
fabric is shown in FIG. 1.
Example 2
[0114] A fabric was obtained using the nylon 6 fiber of 22 dtex and
20 filaments having a round cross section as warp and a nylon 6
fiber of 33 dtex and 26 filaments having a flat cross section with
eight leaves prepared in the same manner as in Example 1 except
that the spinning temperature of the nylon 6 fiber having a flat
cross section with eight leaves was changed to 280.degree. C. The
physical properties and evaluation results of the fabric obtained
are shown in Tables 2 and 3. The fabric was satisfactory.
Example 3
[0115] A fabric was obtained using the nylon 6 fiber of 22 dtex and
20 filaments having a round cross section as warp and a nylon 6
fiber of 33 dtex and 26 filaments having a flat cross section with
eight leaves prepared in the same manner as in Example 1 except
that the spinning temperature of the nylon 6 fiber having a flat
cross section with eight leaves was changed to 275.degree. C. The
physical properties and evaluation results of the fabric obtained
are shown in Tables 2 and 3. The fabric was satisfactory.
Example 4
[0116] A fabric was obtained using the nylon 6 fiber of 22 dtex and
20 filaments having a round cross section as warp and a nylon 6
fiber of 33 dtex and 26 filaments having a flat cross section with
six leaves prepared in the same manner as in Example 1 except that
the shape of the outlet port of the spinneret was changed (FIG.
3(b), slit width: 0.07 mm, slit length ratio: g/h=5/2). The
physical properties and evaluation results of the fabric obtained
are shown in Tables 2 and 3. The fabric was satisfactory.
Example 5
[0117] A fabric was obtained using the nylon 6 fiber of 22 dtex and
20 filaments having a round cross section as warp and a nylon 6
fiber of 33 dtex and 26 filaments having a flat cross section with
ten leaves prepared in the same manner as in Example 1 except that
the shape of the outlet port of the spinneret was changed (FIG.
3(c), slit width: 0.07 mm, slit length ratio: i/j=5/2). The
physical properties and evaluation results of the fabric obtained
are shown in Tables 2 and 3. The fabric was satisfactory.
Example 6
[0118] A fabric was obtained using the nylon 6 fiber of 22 dtex and
20 filaments having a round cross section as warp and a nylon 6
fiber of 22 dtex and 20 filaments having a flat cross section with
eight leaves prepared in the same manner as in Example 1 except
that the number of filaments of the nylon 6 fiber having a flat
cross section with eight leaves was changed to 20 and the total
fiber fineness was 22 dtex. The physical properties and evaluation
results of the fabric obtained are shown in Tables 2 and 3. The
fabric was satisfactory.
Example 7
[0119] A fabric was obtained using the nylon 6 fiber of 22 dtex and
20 filaments having a round cross section as warp and a nylon 6
fiber of 44 dtex and 40 filaments having a flat cross section with
eight leaves prepared in the same manner as in Example 1 except
that the number of filaments of the nylon 6 fiber having a flat
cross section with eight leaves was changed to 40 and the total
fiber fineness was 44 dtex. The physical properties and evaluation
results of the fabric obtained are shown in Tables 2 and 3. The
fabric was satisfactory.
Example 8
[0120] A fabric was obtained using the nylon 6 fiber of 22 dtex and
20 filaments having a round cross section as warp and a nylon 6
fiber of 22 dtex and 12 filaments having a flat cross section with
eight leaves prepared in the same manner as in Example 1 except
that the number of filaments of the nylon 6 fiber having a flat
cross section with eight leaves was changed to 12 and the total
fiber fineness was 22 dtex. The physical properties and evaluation
results of the fabric obtained are shown in Tables 2 and 3. The
fabric was satisfactory.
Example 9
[0121] A fabric was obtained using the nylon 6 fiber of 22 dtex and
20 filaments having a round cross section as warp and a nylon 6
fiber of 44 dtex and 58 filaments having a flat cross section with
eight leaves prepared in the same manner as in Example 1 except
that the number of filaments of the nylon 6 fiber having a flat
cross section with eight leaves was changed to 58 and the total
fiber fineness was 44 dtex. The physical properties and evaluation
results of the fabric obtained are shown in Tables 2 and 3. The
fabric was satisfactory.
Example 10
[0122] A fabric was obtained using the nylon 6 fiber of 22 dtex and
20 filaments having a round cross section as warp and a nylon 6
fiber of 11 dtex and 8 filaments having a flat cross section with
eight leaves prepared in the same manner as in Example 1 except
that the number of filaments of the nylon 6 fiber having a flat
cross section with eight leaves was changed to 8 and the total
fiber fineness was 11 dtex. The physical properties and evaluation
results of the fabric obtained are shown in Tables 2 and 3. The
fabric was satisfactory.
Example 11
[0123] A fabric was obtained in the same manner as in Example 1
except that the fabric was subjected to calender processing
(processing conditions: cylinder processing, heating roll surface
temperature: 180.degree. C., heating roll load: 147 kN, fabric
travel speed: 20 m/min) once on one surface. The physical
properties and evaluation results of the fabric obtained are shown
in Tables 2 and 3. The fabric was satisfactory.
Example 12
[0124] A fabric was obtained in the same manner as in Example 1
except that the nylon 6 fiber of 22 dtex and 20 filaments having a
round cross section was used as warp; a nylon 6 fiber of 33 dtex
and 26 filaments having a flat cross section with eight leaves
prepared in the same manner as in Example 1 was used as woof; and
the fabric was woven in a plain weave at 220 ends per inch and 160
picks per inch. The physical properties and evaluation results of
the fabric obtained are shown in Tables 2 and 3. The fabric was
satisfactory.
Example 13
[0125] A fabric was obtained in the same manner as in Example 1
except that the fabric was woven in a rip-stop taffeta weave. The
physical properties and evaluation results of the fabric obtained
are shown in Table 2. The fabric was satisfactory.
Example 14
[0126] A fabric was obtained in the same manner as in Example 1
except that the heating roll load in calender processing was 74 kN.
The physical properties and evaluation results of the fabric
obtained are shown in Tables 2 and 3. The fabric was satisfactory
although it was inferior to Example 1 in glossiness and down proof
test because of weak calendering.
Example 15
[0127] A fabric was obtained in the same manner as in Example 1
except that a nylon 6 fiber of 33 dtex and 26 filaments having a
flat cross section with eight leaves prepared in the same manner as
in Example 1 was used as warp; the nylon 6 fiber of 22 dtex and 20
filaments having a round cross section was used as woof; and the
fabric was woven in a plain weave at 190 ends per inch and 160
picks per inch. The physical properties and evaluation results of
the fabric obtained are shown in Tables 2 and 3. The fabric was
satisfactory.
Example 16
[0128] A fabric was obtained in the same manner as in Example 1
except that a nylon 6 fiber of 33 dtex and 26 filaments having a
flat cross section with eight leaves prepared in the same manner as
in Example 1 was used as warp and woof, and the fabric was woven in
a plain weave at 190 ends per inch and 135 picks per inch. The
physical properties and evaluation results of the fabric obtained
are shown in Tables 2 and 3. The fabric was satisfactory.
Comparative Example 1
[0129] A fabric was obtained in the same manner as in Example 1
except for using the nylon 6 fiber of 22 dtex and 20 filaments
having a round cross section as warp and a polyamide fiber of 22
dtex and 20 filaments having a round cross section as woof. The
physical properties and evaluation results of the fabric obtained
are shown in Tables 2 and 3. In particular, the fabric obtained, in
which the overlap of filaments was reduced and the pressed state
was insufficient even after calender processing because of the use
of the polyamide fiber having a round cross section, had poor air
permeability and was poor in the down proof test.
Comparative Example 2
[0130] A fabric was obtained using the nylon 6 fiber of 22 dtex and
20 filaments having a round cross section as warp and a nylon 6
fiber of 33 dtex and 24 filaments having a Y-shaped cross section
prepared in the same manner as in Example 1 except that a spinneret
having a Y-shaped outlet port (FIG. 4 (a), slit width: 0.07 mm,
slit length k: 0.5 mm) was used. The physical properties and
evaluation results of the fabric obtained are shown in Tables 2 and
3. The fabric obtained was significantly poor in air permeability
after fifty washing and poor in the down proof test. Furthermore,
for glossiness, the fabric obtained had a glittering gloss and also
streaks, and a fabric with a delicate and elegant gloss could not
be obtained.
Comparative Example 3
[0131] A fabric was obtained using the nylon 6 fiber of 22 dtex and
20 filaments having a round cross section as warp and a nylon 6
fiber of 33 dtex and 24 filaments having a cruciform cross section
prepared in the same manner as in Example 1 except that a spinneret
having a cross-shaped outlet port (FIG. 4 (b), slit width: 0.07 mm,
slit length 1: 0.5 mm) was used. The physical properties and
evaluation results of the fabric obtained are shown in Tables 2 and
3. The fabric obtained, similarly to Comparative Example 2, was
significantly poor in air permeability after fifty washing and poor
in the down proof test. For glossiness, the fabric obtained had a
glittering gloss and also streaks, and a fabric with a delicate and
elegant gloss could not be obtained.
Comparative Example 4
[0132] A fabric was obtained using the nylon 6 fiber of 22 dtex and
20 filaments having a round cross section as warp and a nylon 6
fiber of 33 dtex, 26 filaments, and a flat ratio (F) of 1.3 having
a flat cross section with eight leaves prepared in the same manner
as in Example 1 except that nylon 6 with a relative viscosity of
2.5 was used. The physical properties and evaluation results of the
fabric obtained are shown in Tables 2 and 3. The fabric obtained
had a low flat ratio (W) and insufficient glossiness, and also was
poor in air permeability after fifty washing and somewhat poor in
the down proof test.
Comparative Example 5
[0133] A fabric was obtained using the nylon 6 fiber of 22 dtex and
20 filaments having a round cross section as warp and a nylon 6
fiber of 33 dtex, 26 filaments, and a flat ratio (F) of 3.5 having
a flat cross section with eight leaves prepared in the same manner
as in Example 1 except that nylon 6 with a relative viscosity of
4.0 was used and the spinning temperature was changed to
275.degree. C. The physical properties and evaluation results of
the fabric obtained are shown in Tables 2 and 3. The fabric was
very glittering because of the high flat ratio (W).
Comparative Example 6
[0134] A fabric was obtained using the nylon 6 fiber of 22 dtex and
20 filaments having a round cross section as warp and a nylon 6
fiber of 33 dtex and 26 filaments having a flat cross section with
twelve leaves prepared in the same manner as in Example 1 except
that the shape of the outlet port of the spinneret was changed
(FIG. 4 (c), slit width: 0.07 mm, slit length ratio: m/n=5/2). The
physical properties and evaluation results of the fabric obtained
are shown in Tables 2 and 3. Because of the nearly round cross
section, the fabric obtained had high air permeability after fifty
washing and was poor in the down proof test, failing to provide
mild glossiness.
Comparative Example 7
[0135] A fabric was obtained using the nylon 6 fiber of 22 dtex and
20 filaments having a round cross section as warp and a nylon 6
fiber of 22 dtex and 5 filaments having a flat cross section with
eight leaves prepared in the same manner as in Example 1 except
that the number of outlet ports of the spinneret was changed to 5
and the total fiber fineness was 22 dtex. The physical properties
and evaluation results of the fabric obtained are shown in Tables 2
and 3. Because of the large single filament fineness, satisfactory
results were not obtained in the down proof test.
Comparative Example 8
[0136] A fabric was obtained in the same manner as in Example 1
except that the cover factor was 976. The physical properties and
evaluation results of the fabric obtained are shown in Tables 2 and
3. Because of the low density, the fabric obtained was poor in
initial air permeability and poor in the down proof test.
Comparative Example 9
[0137] A fabric was obtained in the same manner as in Example 1
except that the fabric was not subjected to calender processing.
The physical properties and evaluation results of the fabric
obtained are shown in Tables 2 and 3. The overlap of filaments was
insufficient, and the fabric obtained was poor in the down proof
test.
TABLE-US-00001 TABLE 1 Warp Weft Crosssection Flat Modefied
Crosssection Flat Modefied shape dtex/f ratio shape ratio shape
dtex/f ratio shape ratio Example 1 Circle 22/20 1.0 -- Flat
eight-leaf 33/26 1.6 7.5 Example 2 Circle 22/20 1.0 -- Flat
eight-leaf 33/26 2.1 5.5 Example 3 Circle 22/20 1.0 -- Flat
eight-leaf 33/26 2.4 4.0 Example 4 Circle 22/20 1.0 -- Flat
six-leaf 33/26 2.2 5.5 Example 5 Circle 22/20 1.0 -- Flat ten-leaf
33/26 2.2 5.5 Example 6 Circle 22/20 1.0 -- Flat eight-leaf 22/20
1.6 7.5 Example 7 Circle 22/20 1.0 -- Flat eight-leaf 44/40 1.8 5.5
Example 8 Circle 22/20 1.0 -- Flat eight-leaf 22/12 2.4 1.2 Example
9 Circle 22/20 1.0 -- Flat eight-leaf 44/58 1.7 6.2 Example 10
Circle 22/20 1.0 -- Flat eight-leaf 11/8 1.8 6.0 Example 11 Circle
22/20 1.0 -- Flat eight-leaf 33/26 1.6 7.5 Example 12 Circle 22/20
1.0 -- Flat eight-leaf 33/26 1.6 7.5 Example 13 Circle 22/20 1.0 --
Flat eight-leaf 33/26 1.6 7.5 Example 14 Circle 22/20 1.0 -- Flat
eight-leaf 33/26 1.6 7.5 Example 15 Flat eight-leaf 33/26 1.6 7.5
Circle 22/20 1.0 -- Example 16 Flat eight-leaf 33/26 1.6 7.5 Flat
eight-leaf 33/26 1.6 7.5 Comparative Circle 22/20 1.0 -- Circle
22/20 1.0 -- Example 1 Comparative Circle 22/20 1.0 -- Y 33/24 1.1
3.0 Example 2 Comparative Circle 22/20 1.0 -- X 33/24 1.0 3.5
Example 3 Comparative Circle 22/20 1.0 -- Flat eight-leaf 33/26 1.3
8.5 Example 4 Comparative Circle 22/20 1.0 -- Flat eight-leaf 33/26
3.5 0.8 Example 5 Comparative Circle 22/20 1.0 -- Flat twelve-leaf
33/26 2.5 5.0 Example 6 Comparative Circle 22/20 1.0 -- Flat
eight-leaf 22/5 2.2 1.2 Example 7 Comparative Circle 22/20 1.0 --
Flat eight-leaf 33/26 1.6 7.5 Example 8 Comparative Circle 22/20
1.0 -- Flat eight-leaf 33/26 1.6 7.5 Example 9
TABLE-US-00002 TABLE 2 Warp Weft Single Single Total filament Flat
Number Total filament Flat Crosssection fineness fineness ratio of
leaf Crosssection fineness fineness ratio Polyamide shape dtex dtex
(W) portions shape dtex dtex (W) Example 1 N6 Circle 25 1.3 1.1 0
Flat eight-leaf 38 1.5 1.7 Example 2 N6 Circle 25 1.3 1.1 0 Flat
eight-leaf 38 1.5 2.0 Example 3 N6 Circle 25 1.3 1.1 0 Flat
eight-leaf 38 1.5 2.4 Example 4 N6 Circle 25 1.3 1.1 0 Flat
six-leaf 38 1.5 2.2 Example 5 N6 Circle 25 1.3 1.1 0 Flat ten-leaf
38 1.5 2.2 Example 6 N6 Circle 25 1.3 1.1 0 Flat eight-leaf 25 1.3
1.6 Example 7 N6 Circle 25 1.3 1.1 0 Flat eight-leaf 49 1.2 1.8
Example 8 N6 Circle 25 1.3 1.1 0 Flat eight-leaf 25 2.1 2.4 Example
9 N6 Circle 25 1.3 1.1 0 Flat eight-leaf 49 0.8 1.8 Example 10 N6
Circle 25 1.3 1.1 0 Flat eight-leaf 13 1.6 2.0 Example 11 N6 Circle
25 1.3 1.1 0 Flat eight-leaf 38 1.5 1.7 Example 12 N6 Circle 25 1.3
1.1 0 Flat eight-leaf 38 1.5 1.7 Example 13 N6 Circle 25 1.3 1.1 0
Flat eight-leaf 38 1.5 1.7 Example 14 N6 Circle 25 1.3 1.1 0 Flat
eight-leaf 38 1.5 1.7 Example 15 N6 Flat eight-leaf 38 1.5 1.6 8
Circle 25 1.3 1.1 Example 16 N6 Flat eight-leaf 38 1.5 1.6 8 Flat
eight-leaf 38 1.5 1.7 Comparative N6 Circle 25 1.3 1.1 0 Circle 25
1.3 1.1 Example 1 Comparative N6 Circle 25 1.3 1.1 3 Y 38 1.5 1.9
Example 2 Comparative N6 Circle 25 1.3 1.1 4 X 38 1.5 1.7 Example 3
Comparative N6 Circle 25 1.3 1.1 8 Flat eight-leaf 38 1.5 1.3
Example 4 Comparative N6 Circle 25 1.3 1.1 8 Flat eight-leaf 38 1.5
3.5 Example 5 Comparative N6 Circle 25 1.3 1.1 12 Flat twelve-leal
38 1.5 2.5 Example 6 Comparative N6 Circle 25 1.3 1.1 8 Flat
eight-leaf 25 5.0 2.2 Example 7 Comparative N6 Circle 25 1.3 1.1 8
Flat eight-leaf 38 1.5 1.7 Example 8 Comparative N6 Circle 25 1.3
1.0 8 Flat eight-leaf 38 1.5 1.7 Example 9 Weft Number of leaf
Woven fabric Tear strength (N) Weight portions Textile weave Warp
Weft CF Calendering Warp Weft g/m.sup.2 Example 1 8 Plain weave 210
135 1761 Both surfaces 7.5 7.3 40 Example 2 8 Plain weave 210 135
1761 Both surfaces 7.5 7.0 40 Example 3 8 Plain weave 210 135 1761
Both surfaces 7.5 6.8 40 Example 4 6 Plain weave 210 135 1761 Both
surfaces 7.5 7.2 40 Example 5 10 Plain weave 210 135 1761 Both
surfaces 7.5 6.9 40 Example 6 8 Plain weave 210 160 1735 Both
surfaces 7.5 6.5 36 Example 7 8 Plain weave 190 110 1621 Both
surfaces 7.5 6.4 48 Example 8 8 Plain weave 210 160 1735 Both
surfaces 7.5 6.0 36 Example 9 8 Plain weave 190 110 1621 Both
surfaces 7.5 5.8 48 Example 10 8 Plain weave 210 190 1615 Both
surfaces 7.5 5.6 32 Example 11 8 Plain weave 210 135 1761 Single
surface 7.7 7.3 40 Example 12 8 Plain weave 240 160 2045 Both
surfaces 7.8 7.5 44 Example 13 8 Rip stop weave 210 135 1761 Both
surfaces 7.5 7.3 40 Example 14 8 Plain weave 210 135 1761 Both
surfaces 7.5 7.3 40 Example 15 8 Plain weave 190 160 1842 Both
surfaces 7.2 7.6 42 Example 16 8 Plain weave 190 135 1867 Both
surfaces 7.2 7.3 43 Comparative 0 Plain weave 210 160 1735 Both
surfaces 7.5 7.5 36 Example 1 Comparative 3 Plain weave 210 135
1761 Both surfaces 7.5 4.5 40 Example 2 Comparative 4 Plain weave
210 135 1761 Both surfaces 7.5 4.4 40 Example 3 Comparative 8 Plain
weave 210 135 1761 Both surfaces 7.5 7.4 40 Example 4 Comparative 8
Plain weave 210 135 1761 Both surfaces 7.5 6.7 40 Example 5
Comparative 12 Plain weave 210 135 1761 Both surfaces 7.5 6.4 40
Example 6 Comparative 8 Plain weave 210 160 1735 Both surfaces 7.5
7.3 36 Example 7 Comparative 8 Plain weave 110 80 976 Both surfaces
7.3 7.2 32 Example 8 Comparative 8 Plain weave 210 135 1761 none
7.8 7.5 42 Example 9
TABLE-US-00003 TABLE 3 Initial air Air permeability permeability
after fifty Difference Down (A) washing (B) (B) - (A) proof Overall
cc/cm.sup.2/s cc/cm.sup.2/s cc/cm.sup.2/s Glossiness test
evaluation Example 1 0.5 0.7 0.2 5 5 10 Example 2 0.5 0.7 0.2 5 5
10 Example 3 0.4 0.7 0.3 5 5 10 Example 4 0.5 0.8 0.3 4 5 9 Example
5 0.5 0.7 0.2 4 5 9 Example 6 0.5 0.7 0.2 5 5 10 Example 7 0.5 0.7
0.2 5 5 10 Example 8 0.7 0.9 0.2 5 5 10 Example 9 0.8 1.0 0.2 4 5 9
Example 10 0.6 0.9 0.3 5 5 10 Example 11 0.6 0.8 0.2 5 5 10 Example
12 0.4 0.6 0.2 5 5 10 Example 13 0.5 0.7 0.2 5 5 10 Example 14 1.0
1.2 0.2 4 4 8 Example 15 0.4 0.6 0.2 5 5 10 Example 16 0.4 0.5 0.1
5 5 10 Comparative 1.2 2.2 1.0 3 1 4 Example 1 Comparative 0.6 1.5
0.9 1 3 4 Example 2 Comparative 0.6 1.4 0.8 1 3 4 Example 3
Comparative 0.8 1.3 0.5 3 3 6 Example 4 Comparative 0.5 0.6 0.1 2 5
7 Example 5 Comparative 0.5 1.5 1.0 3 3 6 Example 6 Comparative 1.1
1.7 0.6 4 2 6 Example 7 Comparative 2.2 3.8 1.6 4 1 5 Example 8
Comparative 1.8 2.8 1.0 4 1 5 Example 9
[0138] As is clear from the results in Tables 2 and 3, the fabrics
according to the Examples were fabrics having high strength by
keeping the fiber outline flat, excellent air permeability (which
is because movement of polyamide single filaments tends to be
restricted by having large numbers of lobe parts, and upon being
pressed and fixed by calender processing, concavities and
convexities of the single filaments overlap each other with a small
gap therebetween), and reduced slipping-out of downs. Furthermore,
the cross section of single filaments constituting the fabric had
appropriate concavities and convexities, due to which the fabric
surface became uniformly smooth by calender processing, providing a
high-quality and delicate gloss. Such excellent characteristics
allow to provide a ticking of, for example, down wear, down
jackets, and sportswear.
INDUSTRIAL APPLICABILITY
[0139] Our fabric is lightweight and thin and has high strength,
low air permeability, and excellent glossiness, and thus can be
suitably used for a ticking of, for example, down wear, down
jackets, and sportswear.
* * * * *