U.S. patent application number 14/408719 was filed with the patent office on 2015-06-25 for pore hiding cosmetic composition comprising a plate type filler, a silicon elastomer and an oil absorbing filler.
This patent application is currently assigned to L'OREAL. The applicant listed for this patent is Momoko Shimizu, Romain Tachon. Invention is credited to Momoko Shimizu, Romain Tachon.
Application Number | 20150174048 14/408719 |
Document ID | / |
Family ID | 46551823 |
Filed Date | 2015-06-25 |
United States Patent
Application |
20150174048 |
Kind Code |
A1 |
Tachon; Romain ; et
al. |
June 25, 2015 |
PORE HIDING COSMETIC COMPOSITION COMPRISING A PLATE TYPE FILLER, A
SILICON ELASTOMER AND AN OIL ABSORBING FILLER
Abstract
The invention relates to a cosmetic composition, in particular
in the form of a liquid cosmetic composition, comprising in a
physiological medium (i) at least a plate type filler with
refractive index>1.6 and having a particle size between 1 .mu.m
and 20 um, preferably between 1 .mu.m and 15 .mu.m, (ii) at least a
silicon elastomer, preferably a non-emulsifying silicon elastomer,
and (iii) at least a filler having an oil absorption capacity
greater than or equal to 1 ml/g. The composition is preferably used
as a skin care or make-up base or primer intended to decrease the
visibility of skin imperfections, in particular the pores and make
the pore hiding effect long lasting.
Inventors: |
Tachon; Romain; (Tokyo,
JP) ; Shimizu; Momoko; (Kawasaki, JP) |
|
Applicant: |
Name |
City |
State |
Country |
Type |
Tachon; Romain
Shimizu; Momoko |
Tokyo
Kawasaki |
|
JP
JP |
|
|
Assignee: |
L'OREAL
Paris
FR
|
Family ID: |
46551823 |
Appl. No.: |
14/408719 |
Filed: |
June 21, 2012 |
PCT Filed: |
June 21, 2012 |
PCT NO: |
PCT/JP2012/066471 |
371 Date: |
December 17, 2014 |
Current U.S.
Class: |
424/489 ;
424/63 |
Current CPC
Class: |
A61K 8/891 20130101;
A61K 8/29 20130101; A61K 8/25 20130101; A61K 8/06 20130101; A61K
2800/412 20130101; A61Q 1/00 20130101; A61Q 1/02 20130101; A61K
8/37 20130101; A61K 8/585 20130101; A61K 8/893 20130101; A61K
8/0254 20130101; A61K 8/19 20130101 |
International
Class: |
A61K 8/891 20060101
A61K008/891; A61K 8/02 20060101 A61K008/02; A61K 8/25 20060101
A61K008/25; A61K 8/19 20060101 A61K008/19; A61K 8/29 20060101
A61K008/29; A61K 8/37 20060101 A61K008/37; A61Q 1/00 20060101
A61Q001/00; A61K 8/06 20060101 A61K008/06 |
Claims
1.-20. (canceled)
21. A cosmetic composition comprising, in a physiologically
acceptable medium: (i) at least one plate type filler having a
refractive index greater than about 1.6 and having a particle size
ranging from about 1 .mu.m to about 20 .mu.m, (ii) at least one
silicon elastomer, and (iii) at least one filler having an oil
absorption capacity greater than or equal to about 1 mL/g.
22. The cosmetic composition according to claim 21, further
comprising at least one dyestuff in an amount ranging up to about
5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
23. The cosmetic composition according to claim 21, wherein the at
least one plate type filler is chosen from boron nitride; barium
sulfate; bismuth oxychloride; alumina; composite powders based on
titanium oxide and a substrate chosen from talc, mica, barium
sulfate, boron nitride, bismuth oxychloride, alumina, or mixtures
thereof; or mixtures thereof.
24. The cosmetic composition according to claim 21, wherein the at
least one plate type filler is boron nitride.
25. The cosmetic composition according to claim 21, wherein the
total amount of plate type filler present in the composition ranges
from about 0.5% to about 20% by weight, relative to the total
weight of the composition.
26. The cosmetic composition according to claim 21, wherein the at
least one silicon elastomer is a non-emulsifying silicon elastomer
in the form of a gel or a powder.
27. The cosmetic composition according to claim 21, wherein the
total amount of silicon elastomer present in the composition ranges
from about 1% to about 30% by weight, relative to the total weight
of the composition.
28. The cosmetic composition according to claim 21, wherein the at
least one filler having oil absorption capacity greater than or
equal to about 1 mL/g is chosen from silicas; silica silylates,
hydrophobic silica aerogel particles; polyamide powders, Nylon-6
powders; powders of acrylic polymers, polymethyl methacrylate,
polymethyl methacrylate/ethylene glycol dimethacrylate, polyallyl
methacrylate/ethylene glycol dimethacrylate, or ethylene glycol
dimethacrylate/lauryl methacrylate copolymer; perlites; magnesium
carbonate; or mixtures thereof.
29. The cosmetic composition according to claim 21, wherein the at
least one filler having oil absorption capacity greater than or
equal to about 1 mL/g is chosen from hydrophobic silica aerogel
particles having a specific surface area per unit of mass (S.sub.M)
ranging from about 500 m.sup.2/g to about 1500 m.sup.2/g, and a
size, expressed as the mean volume diameter (D[0.5]), ranging from
about 1 .mu.m to about 1500 .mu.m.
30. The cosmetic composition according to claim 21, wherein the at
least one filler having oil absorption capacity greater than or
equal to about 1 mL/g is chosen from hydrophobic silica aerogel
particles having an oil-absorbing capacity, measured at the wet
point, ranging from about 5 mL/g to about 18 mL/g.
31. The cosmetic composition according to claim 21, wherein the at
least one filler having oil absorption capacity greater than or
equal to about 1 mL/g is chosen from hydrophobic silica aerogel
particles having a tamped density .rho. ranging from about 0.04
g/cm.sup.3 to about 0.10 g/cm.sup.3.
32. The cosmetic composition according to claim 21, wherein the at
least one filler having oil absorption capacity greater than or
equal to about 1 mL/g is chosen from hydrophobic silica aerogel
particles that are surface modified by at least one trimethylsilyl
group.
33. The cosmetic composition according to claim 21, wherein the
total amount of filler having oil absorption capacity greater than
or equal to about 1 mL/g present in the composition ranges about
0.1% to about 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the
composition.
34. The cosmetic composition according to claim 21, wherein the at
least one filler having oil absorption capacity greater than or
equal to about 1 mL/g comprises hydrophobic silica aerogel
particles present in an amount ranging from about 0.1% to about
5.0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the
composition.
35. The cosmetic composition according to claim 21, wherein the
cosmetic composition is an emulsion.
36. The cosmetic composition according to claim 21, further
comprising at least one additional component chosen from water,
hydrophilic solvents, lipophilic solvents, oils, or mixtures
thereof.
37. The cosmetic composition according to claim 21, wherein the
cosmetic composition is in the form of a base, primer, skin care
base, skin care primer, make-up base, or make-up primer.
38. A cosmetic process comprising a step of applying onto the skin
at least one layer of a cosmetic composition comprising, in a
physiologically acceptable medium: (i) at least one plate type
filler having a refractive index greater than about 1.6 and having
a particle size ranging from about 1 .mu.m to about 20 .mu.m, (ii)
at least one silicon elastomer, and (iii) at least one filler
having an oil absorption capacity greater than or equal to about 1
mL/g.
39. The cosmetic process according to claim 38, wherein the
cosmetic composition is applied as a base or primer under a skin
care product or a make-up product.
40. A cosmetic process for decreasing the visibility of skin
imperfections, the process comprising a step of applying onto the
skin at least one layer of a cosmetic composition comprising, in a
physiologically acceptable medium: (i) at least one plate type
filler having a refractive index greater than about 1.6 and having
a particle size ranging from about 1 .mu.m to about 20 .mu.m, (ii)
at least one silicon elastomer, and (iii) at least one filler
having an oil absorption capacity greater than or equal to about 1
mL/g.
Description
TECHNICAL FIELD
[0001] This invention is related to a cosmetic composition, in
particular in a liquid or fluid form, which includes an association
of plate type fillers with high refractive index, silicon
elastomers and oil absorbing particles. This cosmetic composition
allows decreasing the visibility of pores once applied on the skin.
It also makes the pore hiding effect last during the day. By
`liquid` composition according to the invention, we mean liquid or
fluid composition, by opposition to solid composition whose high
hardness doesn't permit the composition to flow under its own
weight.
BACKGROUND ART
[0002] Imperfections of the skin are visible because of the
contrast between bright areas such as skin ridges and dark areas
such as skin pores. Light scattering can decrease this brightness
gap and may be achieved by mat and haze effect. A good balance
between filler oil absorption capacity and non-volatile oil content
provides mat effect. Introduction of fillers with light scattering
properties provides haze effect.
[0003] However, particles such as pigments which have strong light
scattering and absorption should be avoided as they tend to
accumulate inside the pores and enhance their visibility. As a
conclusion, a fluid formula for pore hiding should contain fillers
with strong oil absorption capacity, fillers with light scattering
properties and preferably low amount of pigments.
[0004] Usually, sebum secretion during the day tends to alter
optical effects achieved just after application of cosmetic
composition on the skin.
[0005] It remains a need for having a cosmetic composition having
pore hiding effect and keeping this effect during the day.
[0006] So far, fluid pore hiding makeup products mainly consist of
water-in-oil emulsion including silicon elastomers and/or spherical
fillers and/or plate fillers such as barium sulfate, composite
materials, small pearls. US2009081316 from Momentive describes the
association of silicon elastomer and boron nitride. US2005163730
from Unilever describes the association of silicon elastomer, ZnO
nanopigment and plate type filler such as TiO.sub.2 coated mica or
bismuth oxychloride.
DISCLOSURE OF INVENTION
[0007] To the knowledge of the Applicant, there is none prior pore
hiding fluid composition having association of (i) plate type
fillers with medium to high refractive index (RI>1.6 and
preferably <2.2) providing good coverage and light scattering,
(ii) silicon elastomer to thicken the composition and enhance the
pore hiding effect, and (iii) fillers having strong oil absorption
to give haze and mat effect.
[0008] The invention concerns a cosmetic composition, in particular
in the form of a liquid cosmetic composition, comprising in a
physiological medium: [0009] (i) at least a plate type filler with
refractive index>1.6 and having a particle size between 1 .mu.m
and 20 .mu.m, preferably between 1 .mu.m and 15 .mu.m, [0010] (ii)
at least a silicon elastomer, preferably a non-emulsifying silicon
elastomer, and [0011] (iii) at least a filler having an oil
absorption capacity greater than or equal to 1 ml/g.
[0012] In a particular embodiment, the composition of the invention
is a base or a primer, in particular a skin care or a make-up base
or primer.
[0013] The composition may comprise from 0 to 5% of dyestuffs by
total weight of the composition.
[0014] In a preferred embodiment, the plate type filler has a
refractive index 1.6<RI<2.2.
[0015] In a particular embodiment, a cosmetic composition according
to the invention comprises from 0 to 3% of dyestuffs by total
weight of the composition.
[0016] The invention also concerns a cosmetic process comprising a
step of applying at least one layer of the cosmetic composition
according to the invention onto the skin, in particular the skin of
the face.
[0017] In a particular embodiment, the cosmetic composition is
applied as a base or a primer under a skin care product or a
make-up product.
[0018] The cosmetic composition according to the invention is
particularly intended to decrease the visibility of skin
imperfections, in particular the pores and make the pore hiding
effect long lasting.
BEST MODE FOR CARRYING OUT THE INVENTION
[0019] Plate Type Filler with High Refractive Index
[0020] The composition according to the invention comprises a least
a plate type filler with high refractive index (RI>1.6) and
particle size between 1 .mu.m and 15 .mu.m.
[0021] In particular the plate type filler has refractive index
comprised between 1.6 and 2.2 and a particle size between 1 .mu.m
and 15 .mu.m.
[0022] The particle size are expressed as the mean volume diameter
(D[0.5]).
[0023] In particular, the said plate type filler is chosen from
boron nitride, barium sulfate, bismuth oxychloride, alumina and
composite powders based on titanium oxide and substrate like talc,
mica, barium sulfate, boron nitride, bismuth oxychloride, alumina,
and mixtures thereof.
[0024] In a particular embodiment, the plate type filler is a boron
nitride.
[0025] In a preferred embodiment, the plate type filler is a boron
nitride having a particle size between 1 .mu.m and 10 .mu.m, and in
particular between 1 and 6 .mu.m.
[0026] As examples of commercial products of boron nitride, we may
use the following products: PUHP3008 from Saint Gobains Ceramics
(mean particle size 6 .mu.m), the PUHP1030L from Saint Gobain
Ceramics (mean particle size 3 .mu.m), the Softouch BN CC6058
powder from Momentive Performance Materials (mean particle size
5-15 .mu.m), or mixtures thereof.
[0027] The plate type filler is present in the composition of the
invention in an amount ranging from 0.5 to 20%, preferably from 1
to 10% and more preferably from 2 to 5% by weight of the total
weight of the composition.
[0028] Silicon Elastomers (Organopolysiloxane Elastomer)
[0029] The composition according to the invention also comprises at
least a silicon elastomer.
[0030] In a preferred embodiment, the composition comprises a
non-emulsifying silicon elastomer.
[0031] The non-emulsifying silicon elastomer may be in form of a
gel or a powder.
[0032] The `organopolysiloxane elastomer` or `silicon elastomer`
makes it possible to thicken the composition and to improve the
application properties thereof. It provides a very soft and
mattifying feel after application, which is especially advantageous
for an application to the skin. This elastomer is either a gel or a
soft powder.
[0033] The expression "organopolysiloxane elastomer" or "silicone
elastomer" means a flexible, deformable organopolysiloxane having
viscoelastic properties and especially the consistency of a sponge
or a flexible sphere. Its modulus of elasticity is such that this
material withstands deformation and has limited stretchability and
contractability. This material is capable of regaining its original
shape after stretching.
[0034] It is more particularly a crosslinked organopolysiloxane
elastomer.
[0035] Thus, the organopolysiloxane elastomer may be obtained by
crosslinking addition reaction of diorganopolysiloxane containing
at least one hydrogen bonded to silicon and of diorganopolysiloxane
containing ethylenically unsaturated groups bonded to silicon,
especially in the presence of a platinum catalyst; or by
dehydrogenation crosslinking condensation reaction between a
diorganopolysiloxane containing hydroxyl end groups and a
diorganopolysiloxane containing at least one hydrogen bonded to
silicon, especially in the presence of an organotin; or by
crosslinking condensation reaction of a diorganopolysiloxane
containing hydroxyl end groups and of a hydrolysable
organopolysilane; or by thermal crosslinking of organopolysiloxane,
especially in the presence of an organoperoxide catalyst; or by
crosslinking of organopolysiloxane via high-energy radiation such
as gamma rays, ultraviolet rays or an electron beam.
[0036] Preferably, the organopolysiloxane elastomer is obtained by
crosslinking addition reaction (A) of diorganopolysiloxane
containing at least two hydrogens each bonded to a silicon, and (B)
of diorganopolysiloxane containing at least two ethylenically
unsaturated groups bonded to silicon, especially in the presence
(C) of a platinum catalyst, as described, for instance, in patent
application EP-A-295 886.
[0037] In particular, the organopolysiloxane elastomer may be
obtained by reaction of a dimethylpolysiloxane containing
dimethylvinylsiloxy end groups and of methylhydrogenpolysiloxane
containing trimethylsiloxy end groups, in the presence of a
platinum catalyst.
[0038] Compound (A) is the base reagent for the formation of
organopolysiloxane elastomer, and the crosslinking is performed by
addition reaction of compound (A) with compound (B) in the presence
of to the catalyst (C).
[0039] Compound (A) is in particular an organopolysiloxane
containing at least two hydrogen atoms bonded to different silicon
atoms in each molecule.
[0040] Compound (A) may have any molecular structure, especially a
linear-chain or branched-chain structure or a cyclic structure.
[0041] Compound (A) may have a viscosity at 25.degree. C. ranging
from 1 to 50 000 centistokes, especially so as to be miscible with
compound (B).
[0042] The organic groups bonded to the silicon atoms of compound
(A) may be alkyl groups such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl,
octyl; substituted alkyl groups such as 2-phenylethyl,
2-phenylpropyl or 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl; aryl groups such as
phenyl, tolyl, xylyl; substituted aryl groups such as phenylethyl;
and substituted monovalent hydrocarbon-based groups such as an
epoxy group, a carboxylate ester group or a mercapto group.
[0043] Compound (A) may thus be chosen from
methylhydrogenpolysiloxanes containing trimethylsiloxy end groups,
dimethylsiloxane-methylhydrosiloxane copolymers containing
trimethylsiloxy end groups, and
dimethylsiloxane-methylhydrosiloxane cyclic copolymers.
[0044] Compound (B) is advantageously a diorganopolysiloxane
containing at least two lower alkenyl groups (for example
C.sub.2-C.sub.4); the lower alkenyl group may be chosen from vinyl,
allyl and propenyl groups. These lower alkenyl groups may be
located in any position of the organopolysiloxane molecule, but are
preferably located at the ends of the organopolysiloxane molecule.
The organopolysiloxane (B) may have a branched-chain, linear-chain,
cyclic or network structure, but the linear-chain structure is
preferred. Compound (B) may have a viscosity ranging from the
liquid state to the gum state. Preferably, compound (B) has a
viscosity of at least 100 centistokes at 25.degree. C.
[0045] Besides the abovementioned alkenyl groups, the other organic
groups bonded to the silicon atoms in compound (B) may be alkyl
groups such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl or octyl; substituted
alkyl groups such as 2-phenylethyl, 2-phenylpropyl or
3,3,3-trifluoropropyl; aryl groups such as phenyl, tolyl or xylyl;
substituted aryl groups such as phenylethyl; and substituted
monovalent hydrocarbon-based groups such as an epoxy group, a
carboxylate ester group or a mercapto group.
[0046] The organopolysiloxanes (B) may be chosen from
methylvinylpolysiloxanes, methylvinylsiloxane-dimethylsiloxane
copolymers, dimethylpolysiloxanes containing dimethylvinylsiloxy
end groups, dimethylsiloxane-methylphenylsiloxane copolymers
containing dimethylvinylsiloxy end groups,
dimethylsiloxane-diphenylsiloxane-methylvinylsiloxane copolymers
containing dimethylvinylsiloxy end groups,
dimethylsiloxane-methylvinylsiloxane copolymers containing
trimethylsiloxy end groups,
dimethylsiloxane-methylphenylsiloxane-methylvinylsiloxane
copolymers containing trimethylsiloxy end groups,
methyl(3,3,3-trifluoropropyl)polysiloxanes containing
dimethylvinylsiloxy end groups, and
dimethylsiloxane-methyl(3,3,3-trifluoropropyl)siloxane copolymers
containing dimethylvinylsiloxy end groups.
[0047] In particular, the organopolysiloxane elastomer may be
obtained by reaction of dimethylpolysiloxane containing
dimethylvinylsiloxy end groups and of methylhydrogenpolysiloxane
containing trimethylsiloxy end groups, in the presence of a
platinum catalyst.
[0048] Advantageously, the sum of the number of ethylenic groups
per molecule in compound (B) and of the number of hydrogen atoms
bonded to silicon atoms per molecule in compound (A) is at least
5.
[0049] It is advantageous for compound (A) to be added in an amount
such that the molecular ratio between the total amount of hydrogen
atoms bonded to silicon atoms in compound (A) and the total amount
of all the ethylenically unsaturated groups in compound (B) is
within the range from 1.5/1 to 20/1.
[0050] Compound (C) is the catalyst for the crosslinking reaction,
and is especially chloroplatinic acid, chloroplatinic acid-olefin
complexes, chloroplatinic acid-alkenylsiloxane complexes,
chloroplatinic acid-diketone complexes, platinum black and platinum
on a support.
[0051] The catalyst (C) is preferably added in an amount of from
0.1 to 1000 parts by weight and better still from 1 to 100 parts by
weight, as clean platinum metal, per 1000 parts by weight of the
total amount of compounds (A) and (B).
[0052] The elastomer is advantageously a non-emulsifying
elastomer.
[0053] The term "non-emulsifying" defines organopolysiloxane
elastomers not containing any hydrophilic chains, and in particular
not containing any polyoxyalkylene units (especially
polyoxyethylene or polyoxypropylene) or any polyglyceryl units.
Thus, according to one particular embodiment of the invention, the
composition comprises an organopolysiloxane elastomer that is free
of polyoxyalkylene units and polyglyceryl units.
[0054] Non-emulsifying elastomers are especially described in
patents EP 242 219, EP 285 886 and EP 765 656 and in patent
application JP-A-61-194 009.
[0055] Non-emulsifying elastomers that may be used more
particularly include those sold under the names KSG-6, KSG-15,
KSG-16, KSG-18, KSG-41, KSG-42, KSG-43 and KSG-44 by the company
Shin-Etsu, DC 9040 and DC 9041 by the company Dow Corning, and SFE
839 by the company General Electric.
[0056] Spherical non-emulsifying elastomers that may be used
include those sold under the names DC 9040, DC 9041, DC 9509, DC
9505 and DC 9506 by the company Dow Corning.
[0057] In an embodiment, the organopolysiloxane elastomer particles
are conveyed in the form of a gel formed from an elastomeric
organopolysiloxane included in at least one hydrocarbon-based oil
and/or one silicone oil. In these gels, the organopolysiloxane
particles are often non-spherical particles.
[0058] As preferred non-emulsifying silicone elastomer in gel form,
we may cite the INCI Name products Dimethicone crosspolymers such
as DC9041, DC9045 from Dow Corning.
[0059] In another embodiment, the organopolysiloxane elastomer
particles are conveyed in the form of a powder.
[0060] As preferred non-emulsifying silicone elastomer in powder
form, we may cite the INCI Name products
Dimethicone/Vinyldimethicone crosspolymer such as the DC9506 and
DC9701 from Dow Corning and KSG6 from Shin Etsu.
[0061] In another embodiment, the composition of the invention
comprises at least one silicone elastomer powder coated with a
silicone resin. The silicone elastomer powder is spherical and may
be obtained especially via the processes for synthesizing
non-emulsifying elastomers described above. The silicone elastomer
powder is coated with silicone resin.
[0062] According to one preferred embodiment, the silicone resin
may be a silsesquioxane resin, as described, for example, in U.S.
Pat. No. 5,538,793, the content of which is incorporated herein by
way of reference. Such elastomer powders coated with silicone resin
are especially sold under the names KSP-100, KSP-101, KSP-102,
KSP-103, KSP-104 and KSP-105 by the company Shin-Etsu. Such powders
correspond to the INCI name dimethicone silsesquioxane
crosspolymer, and in particular vinyl dimethicone/methicone
silsesquioxane crosspolymer. As a preferred elastomer powder coated
with silicone resin, we may use KSP100.
[0063] The silicone elastomer particles may have a JIS-A hardness
of less than or equal to 80 (especially ranging from 5 to 80) and
preferably less than or equal to 65 (especially ranging from 5 to
65). The JIS-A hardness is measured according to the method RS K
6301 (1995) established by the Japanese Industrial Standards
Committee.
[0064] In particular, the silicone elastomer particles may have a
mean size ranging from 0.1 to 500 .mu.m, preferably from 3 to 200
.mu.m and better still from 10 to 20 .mu.m. These particles may be
of spherical, flat or amorphous shape, and preferably of spherical
shape.
[0065] This organopolysiloxane elastomer or silicon elastomer is
present in the composition generally in a content ranging from 1%
to 30% by weight of active material (=dry matter) and preferably
from 2% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of said
composition.
[0066] Fillers with oil absorption capacity greater than or equal
to 100 ml/100 g
[0067] The composition according to the invention comprises also a
filler having an oil absorption capacity greater than or equal to
100 ml/100 g, ie greater than or equal to 1 ml/g. The said filler
according to the invention has capacity for absorbing and/or
adsorbing an oil or a liquid fatty substance, for instance sebum
(from the skin).
[0068] This oil-absorbing filler may also advantageously have a BET
specific surface area of greater than or equal to 300 m.sup.2/g,
preferably greater than 500 m.sup.2/g and preferentially greater
than 600 m.sup.2/g, and especially less than 1500 m.sup.2/g.
[0069] The BET specific surface area is determined according to the
BET (Brunauer-Emmet-Teller) method described in the Journal of the
American Chemical Society, vol. 60, page 309, February 1938 and
corresponding to the international standard ISO 5794/1 (appendix
D). The BET specific surface area corresponds to the total specific
surface area (thus including micropores) of the powder.
[0070] The filler under consideration according to the invention is
thus characterized in that it has an oil uptake of greater than or
equal to 1 ml/g, preferably greater than or equal 1.5 ml/g,
especially ranging from 1.5 ml/g to 20 ml/g, or even ranging from
1.5 ml/g to 15 ml/g. It preferably has an oil uptake of greater
than or equal to 2 ml/g, especially ranging from 2 ml/g to 20 ml/g,
or even ranging from 2 ml/g to 15 ml/g.
[0071] This oil uptake, which corresponds to the amount of oil
absorbed and/or adsorbed by the filler, may be characterized by
measuring the wet point according to the method described
below.
[0072] Method for Measuring the Oil Uptake of a Filler
[0073] The oil uptake of a powder is measured according to the
method for determining the oil uptake of a powder described in
standard NF T 30-022. It corresponds to the amount of oil adsorbed
onto the available surface of the filler, by measuring the wet
point.
[0074] An amount m (in grams) of powder of between about 0.5 g and
5 g (the amount depends on the density of the powder) is placed on
a glass plate and isononyl isononanoate is then added dropwise.
[0075] After addition of 4 to 5 drops of isononyl isononanoate, the
isononyl isononanoate is incorporated into the filler using a
spatula, and addition of the isononyl isononanoate is continued
until a conglomerate of isononyl isononanoate and powder has
formed. At this point, the isononyl isononanoate is added one drop
at a time and the mixture is then triturated with the spatula. The
addition of isononyl isononanoate is stopped when a firm, smooth
paste is obtained. This paste must be able to be spread on the
glass plate without cracking or forming lumps. The volume Vs
(expressed in ml) of isononyl isononanoate used is then noted.
[0076] The oil uptake corresponds to the ratio Vs/m.
[0077] The oil-uptake filler under consideration according to the
invention may be of organic or inorganic nature.
[0078] The filler having oil absorption capacity greater than or
equal to 1 ml/g may be chosen more particularly from silicas,
silica silylates (in particular hydrophobic silica aerogel
particles), polyamide (in particular Nylon-6) powders, powders of
acrylic polymers, especially of polymethyl methacrylate, of
polymethyl methacrylate/ethylene glycol dimethacrylate, of
polyallyl methacrylate/ethylene glycol dimethacrylate or of
ethylene glycol dimethacrylate/lauryl methacrylate copolymer;
perlites; magnesium carbonate, and mixtures thereof.
[0079] A person skilled in the art will select among the
abovementioned materials fillers with an oil uptake of greater than
or equal to 1 ml/g, preferably greater than or equal to 1.5 ml/g
and preferably greater than or equal to 2 ml/g, which are in this
respect suitable for use in the invention.
[0080] Advantageously, the oil-absorbing powder may be a powder
coated with a hydrophobic treatment agent
[0081] The hydrophobic treatment agent may be chosen especially
from fatty acids such as stearic acid; metal soaps such as
aluminium dimyristate, the aluminium salt of hydrogenated tallow
glutamate; amino acids; N-acylamino acids or salts thereof;
lecithin, isopropyl triisostearyl titanate, mineral waxes, and
mixtures thereof.
[0082] The N-acylamino acids may comprise an acyl group containing
from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, for instance a 2-ethylhexanoyl, caproyl,
lauroyl, myristoyl, palmitoyl, stearoyl or cocoyl group. The salts
of these compounds may be aluminium, magnesium, calcium, zirconium,
zinc, sodium or potassium salts. The amino acid may be, for
example, lysine, glutamic acid or alanine.
[0083] The term "alkyl" mentioned in the compounds mentioned
previously especially denotes an alkyl group containing from 1 to
30 carbon atoms and preferably containing from 5 to 16 carbon
atoms.
[0084] Examples of fillers in accordance with the invention, i.e.
fillers with an oil uptake of greater than or equal to 1 ml/g,
preferably greater than or equal to 1.5 ml/g, are described below,
with their oil uptake value measured according to the protocol
described previously.
[0085] Silica powders that may be mentioned include: [0086] porous
silica microspheres, especially those sold under the names
Sunsphere.RTM. H53 and Sunsphere.RTM. H33 (oil uptake equal to 3.70
ml/g) by the company Asahi Glass; MSS-500-3H by the company Kobo;
[0087] polydimethylsiloxane-coated amorphous silica microspheres,
especially those sold under the name SA Sunsphere.RTM. H33 (oil
uptake equal to 2.43 ml/g), [0088] silica silylate powders,
especially the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles sold under the
name Dow Corning VM-2270 Aerogel Fine Particles by the company Dow
Corning (oil uptake equal to 10.40 ml/g), [0089] amorphous hollow
silica particles, especially those sold under the name Silica
Shells by the company Kobo (oil uptake equal to 5.50 ml/g), and
[0090] precipitated silica powders surface-treated with a mineral
wax, such as precipitated silica treated with a polyethylene wax,
and especially those sold under the name Acematt OR 412 by the
company Evonik-Degussa (oil uptake equal to 3.98 ml/g).
[0091] Acrylic polymer powders that may be mentioned include:
[0092] porous polymethyl methacrylate (INCI name methyl
methacrylate crosspolymer) such as the spheres sold under the name
Covabead LH85 by the company Sensient, [0093] porous polymethyl
methacrylate/ethylene glycol dimethacrylate spheres sold under the
name Microsponge 5640 by the company Cardinal Health Technologies
(oil uptake equal to 1.55 ml/g), and [0094] ethylene glycol
dimethacrylate/lauryl methacrylate copolymer powders, especially
those sold under the name Polytrap.RTM. 6603 from the company Dow
Corning (oil uptake equal to 6.56 ml/g).
[0095] Polyamide powders that may be mentioned include: [0096]
nylon-6 powder, especially the product sold under the name Pomp610
by the company UBE Industries (oil uptake equal to 2.02 ml/g).
[0097] A perlite powder that may especially be mentioned is the
product sold under the name Optimat 1430 OR by the company World
Minerals (oil uptake equal to 2.4 ml/g).
[0098] A magnesium carbonate powder that may especially be
mentioned is the product sold under the name Tipo Carbomagel by the
company Buschle & Lepper (oil uptake equal to 2.14 ml/g).
[0099] The oil-absorbing fillers that are particularly preferred
are silica and silica silylate powders and more particularly the
products sold under the name Sunsphere.RTM. H33 by the company
Asahi Glass and under the name Dow Corning VM-2270 Aerogel Fine
Particles by the company Dow Corning; nylon-6 powder and porous
polymethyl methacrylate (INCI name methyl methacrylate
crosspolymer) such as the spheres sold under the name Covabead LH85
by the company Sensient.
[0100] In a particular embodiment, the filler having a oil
absorption capacity greater than or equal to 1 ml/g is an
hydrophobic silica aerogel (silica silylate).
[0101] Silica aerogels are porous materials obtained by replacing
(by drying) the liquid component of a silica gel with air.
[0102] They are generally synthesized via a sol-gel process in
liquid medium and then dried, usually by extraction of a
supercritical fluid, the one most commonly used being supercritical
CO.sub.2. This type of drying makes it possible to avoid shrinkage
of the pores and of the material. The sol-gel process and the
various drying processes are described in detail in Brinker C J.,
and Scherer G. W., Sol-Gel Science: New York: Academic Press,
1990.
[0103] The hydrophobic silica aerogel particles that may be used in
the present invention have a specific surface area per unit of mass
(S.sub.M) ranging from 500 to 1500 m.sup.2/g, preferably from 600
to 1200 m.sup.2/g and better still from 600 to 800 m.sup.2/g, and a
size expressed as the mean volume diameter (D[0.5]), ranging from 1
to 1500 .mu.m, better still from 1 to 1000 .mu.m, preferably from 1
to 100 .mu.m, in particular from 1 to 30 .mu.m, more preferably
from 5 to 25 .mu.m, better still from 5 to 20 .mu.m and even better
still from 5 to 15 .mu.m.
[0104] According to one embodiment, the hydrophobic silica aerogel
particles that may be used in the present invention have a size
expressed as the mean volume diameter (D[0.5]) ranging from 1 to 30
.mu.m, preferably from 5 to 25 .mu.m, better still from 5 to 20
.mu.m and even better still from 5 to 15 .mu.m.
[0105] The specific surface area per unit of mass may be determined
via the BET (Brunauer-Emmett-Teller) nitrogen absorption method
described in the Journal of the American Chemical Society, vol. 60,
page 309, February 1938 and corresponding to the international
standard ISO 5794/1 (appendix D). The BET specific surface area
corresponds to the total specific surface area of the particles
under consideration.
[0106] The size of the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles may be
measured by static light scattering using a commercial granulometer
such as the MasterSizer 2000 machine from Malvern. The data are
processed on the basis of the Mie scattering theory. This theory,
which is exact for isotropic particles, makes it possible to
determine, in the case of non-spherical particles, an "effective"
particle diameter. This theory is especially described in the
publication by Van de Hulst, H. C., "Light Scattering by Small
Particles," Chapters 9 and 10, Wiley, New York, 1957.
[0107] According to one advantageous embodiment, the hydrophobic
silica aerogel particles used in the present invention have a
specific surface area per unit of mass (S.sub.M) ranging from 600
to 800 m.sup.2/g and a size expressed as the mean volume diameter
(D[0.5]) ranging from 5 to 20 .mu.m and better still from 5 to 15
.mu.m.
[0108] The hydrophobic silica aerogel particles used in the present
invention may advantageously have a tamped density .rho. ranging
from 0.04 g/cm.sup.3 to 0.10 g/cm.sup.3 and preferably from 0.05
g/cm.sup.3 to 0.08 g/cm.sup.3.
[0109] In the context of the present invention, this density, known
as the tamped density, may be assessed according to the following
protocol:
[0110] 40 g of powder are poured into a measuring cylinder; the
measuring cylinder is then placed on a Stay 2003 machine from
Stampf Volumeter; the measuring cylinder is then subjected to a
series of 2500 packing motions (this operation is repeated until
the difference in volume between two consecutive tests is less than
2%); the final volume Vf of packed powder is then measured directly
on the measuring cylinder. The tamped density is determined by the
ratio m/Vf, in this instance 40/Vf (Vf being expressed in cm.sup.3
and m in g).
[0111] According to one embodiment, the hydrophobic silica aerogel
particles that may be used in the present invention have a specific
surface area per unit of volume S.sub.V ranging from 5 to 60
m.sup.2/cm.sup.3, preferably from 10 to 50 m.sup.2/cm.sup.3 and
better still from 15 to 40 m.sup.2/cm.sup.3.
[0112] The specific surface area per unit of volume is given by the
relationship:
[0113] S.sub.V=S.sub.M.rho.; where .rho. is the tamped density
expressed in g/cm.sup.3 and S.sub.M is the specific surface area
per unit of mass expressed in m.sup.2/g, as defined above.
[0114] Preferably, the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles
according to the invention have an oil-absorbing capacity, measured
at the wet point, ranging from 5 to 18 ml/g, preferably from 6 to
15 ml/g and better still from 8 to 12 ml/g.
[0115] The oil-absorbing capacity measured at the wet point, noted
Wp, corresponds to the amount of water that needs to be added to
100 g of particle in order to obtain a homogeneous paste.
[0116] It is measured according to the wet point method or the
method for determining the oil uptake of a powder described in
standard NF T 30-022. It corresponds to the amount of oil adsorbed
onto the available surface of the powder and/or absorbed by the
powder by measuring the wet point, described below:
[0117] An amount m=2 g of powder is placed on a glass plate, and
the oil (isononyl isononanoate) is then added dropwise. After
addition of 4 to 5 drops of oil to the powder, mixing is performed
using a spatula, and addition of oil is continued until a
conglomerate of oil and powder has formed. At this point, the oil
is added one drop at a time and the mixture is then triturated with
the spatula. The addition of oil is stopped when a firm, smooth
paste is obtained. This paste must be able to be spread on the
glass plate without cracking or forming lumps. The volume Vs
(expressed in ml) of oil used is then noted.
[0118] The oil uptake corresponds to the ratio Vs/m.
[0119] The hydrophobic silica aerogel particles that may be used
according to the present invention are preferably of silylated
silica type (INCI name: silica silylate).
[0120] The term "hydrophobic silica" means any silica whose surface
is treated with silylating agents, for example halogenated silanes
such as alkylchlorosilanes, siloxanes, in particular
dimethylsiloxanes such as hexamethyldisiloxane, or silazanes, so as
to functionalize the OH groups with silyl groups Si--Rn, for
example trimethylsilyl groups.
[0121] As regards the preparation of hydrophobic silica aerogels
particles that have been surface-modified by silylation, reference
may be made to document U.S. Pat. No. 7,470,725.
[0122] Use will be made in particular of hydrophobic silica
aerogels particles surface-modified with trimethylsilyl groups with
INCI name Silica silylate.
[0123] As hydrophobic silica aerogel particles that may be used in
the invention, examples that may be mentioned include the aerogel
sold under the name VM-2260 or VM-2270 (INCI name: Silica
silylate), by the company Dow Corning, the particles of which have
a mean size of about 1000 microns and a specific surface area per
unit of mass ranging from 600 to 800 m.sup.2/g.
[0124] Mention may also be made of the aerogels sold by the company
Cabot under the references Aerogel TLD 201, Aerogel OGD 201,
Aerogel TLD 203, and ENOVA AEROGEL MT 1100.
[0125] Use will be made more particularly of the aerogel sold under
the name VM-2270 (INCI name: Silica silylate), by the company Dow
Corning, the particles of which have a mean size ranging from 5-15
microns and a specific surface area per unit of mass ranging from
600 to 800 m.sup.2/g (oil uptake equal to 1080 ml/100 g).
[0126] Advantageously, the hollow particles in accordance with the
invention are at least partly formed from hydrophobic silica
aerogel particles, preferably those with a specific surface area
per unit of mass (S.sub.M) ranging from 500 to 1500 m.sup.2/g and
preferably from 600 to 1200 m.sup.2/g, and a size expressed as the
mean volume diameter (D[0.5]), ranging from 1 to 1500 .mu.m, better
still from 1 to 1000 .mu.m, preferably from 1 to 100 .mu.m, in
particular from 1 to 30 .mu.m, more preferably from 5 to 25 .mu.m,
better still from 5 to 20 .mu.m and even better still from 5 to 15
.mu.m.
[0127] The use of the hollow particles according to the invention,
in particular of hydrophobic silica aerogel particles, also
advantageously makes it possible to improve the remanence of the
cosmetic properties afforded by the composition on keratin
materials, in particular the skin.
[0128] The filler(s) with an oil uptake of greater than or equal to
1 ml/g, preferably greater or equal than 1.5 ml/g may be present in
a composition according to the invention in a content ranging from
0.1% to 20% by weight, preferably ranging from 0.5% to 15% by
weight and preferentially ranging from 0.5% to 10% by weight
relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0129] In particular for the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles,
which are very efficient in term of oil absorption capacity, they
may be present in an amount ranging from 0.1 to 5.0% by weight,
preferably from 0.1 to 3.0% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to
2.0% by total weight of the composition.
[0130] Physiologically Acceptable Medium
[0131] Besides the compounds indicated previously, a composition
according to the invention comprises a physiologically acceptable
medium.
[0132] The term "physiologically acceptable medium" is intended to
denote a medium that is particularly suitable for applying a
composition according to the invention to the skin.
[0133] The physiologically acceptable medium is generally adapted
to the nature of the support onto which the composition is to be
applied, and also to the form in which the composition is to be
packaged.
[0134] A composition of the invention may be a dispersion or an
emulsion.
[0135] A dispersion may be made as an aqueous phase or as an oily
phase.
[0136] An emulsion may have an oily or aqueous continuous phase.
Such an emulsion may be, for example, an inverse (W/O) emulsion or
a direct (O/W) emulsion, or alternatively a multiple emulsion
(W/O/W or O/W/O).
[0137] In the case of emulsions, inverse (W/O) emulsions are
preferred.
[0138] Aqueous Phase
[0139] The composition according to the invention may comprise an
aqueous phase.
[0140] The aqueous phase comprises water. A water that is suitable
for use in the invention may be a floral water such as cornflower
water and/or a mineral water such as Vittel water, Lucas water or
La Roche Posay water and/or a spring water.
[0141] The aqueous phase may also comprise water-miscible organic
solvents (at room temperature: 25.degree. C.), to for instance
monoalcohols containing from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, such as ethanol
or isopropanol; polyols especially containing from 2 to 20 carbon
atoms, preferably containing from 2 to 10 carbon atoms and
preferentially containing from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, such as
glycerol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol,
hexylene glycol, dipropylene glycol or diethylene glycol; glycol
ethers (especially containing from 3 to 16 carbon atoms) such as
mono-, di- or tripropylene glycol (C.sub.1-C.sub.4)alkyl ethers,
mono-, di- or triethylene glycol (C.sub.1-C.sub.4)alkyl ethers, and
mixtures thereof.
[0142] The aqueous phase may also comprise stabilizers, for example
sodium chloride, magnesium dichloride or magnesium sulfate.
[0143] The aqueous phase may also comprise any water-soluble or
water-dispersible compound that is compatible with an aqueous
phase, such as gelling agents, film-forming polymers, thickeners or
surfactants, and mixtures thereof.
[0144] In particular, a composition of the invention may comprise
an aqueous phase in a content ranging from 1% to 80% by weight,
especially from 5% to 50% and more particularly from 10% to 45% by
weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0145] According to another embodiment, a composition of the
invention may be anhydrous.
[0146] An anhydrous composition may comprise less than 5% by weight
of water relative to the total weight of the composition, in
particular less than 3%, especially less than 2% and more
particularly less than 1% by weight of water relative to the total
weight of the composition.
[0147] More particularly, an anhydrous composition may be free of
water.
[0148] Fatty Phase
[0149] A cosmetic composition in accordance with the present
invention may comprise at least one liquid and/or solid fatty
phase.
[0150] According to one embodiment, the composition according to
the present invention is in the form of an emulsion.
[0151] In particular, a composition of the invention may comprise
at least one liquid fatty phase, especially at least one oil as
mentioned below.
[0152] The term "oil" means any fatty substance that is in liquid
form at room temperature (20-25.degree. C.) and at atmospheric
pressure.
[0153] A composition of the invention may comprise a liquid fatty
phase in a content ranging from 1% to 90%, in particular from 5% to
80%, in particular from 10% to 70% and more particularly from 20%
to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the
composition.
[0154] The oily phase that is suitable for preparing the cosmetic
compositions according to the to invention may comprise
hydrocarbon-based oils, silicone oils, fluoro oils or non-fluoro
oils, or mixtures thereof.
[0155] The oils may be volatile or non-volatile.
[0156] They may be of animal, plant, mineral or synthetic
origin.
[0157] The term "non-volatile oil" means an oil that remains on the
skin or the keratin fibre at room temperature and atmospheric
pressure. More specifically, a non-volatile oil has an evaporation
rate strictly less than 0.01 mg/cm.sup.2/min.
[0158] To measure this evaporation rate, 15 g of oil or of oil
mixture to be tested are placed in a crystallizing dish 7 cm in
diameter, which is placed on a balance in a large chamber of about
0.3 m.sup.3 that is temperature-regulated, at a temperature of
25.degree. C., and hygrometry-regulated, at a relative humidity of
50%. The liquid is allowed to evaporate freely, without stirring
it, while providing ventilation by means of a fan (Papst-Motoren,
reference 8550 N, rotating at 2700 rpm) placed in a vertical
position above the crystallizing dish containing said oil or said
mixture, the blades being directed towards the crystallizing dish,
20 cm away from the bottom of the crystallizing dish. The mass of
oil remaining in the crystallizing dish is measured at regular
intervals. The evaporation rates are expressed in mg of oil
evaporated per unit of area (cm.sup.2) and per unit of time
(minutes).
[0159] The term "volatile oil" means any non-aqueous medium that is
capable of evaporating on contact with the skin or the lips in less
than one hour, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. The
volatile oil is a cosmetic volatile oil, which is liquid at room
temperature. More specifically, a volatile oil has an evaporation
rate of between 0.01 and 200 mg/cm.sup.2/min, limits included.
[0160] For the purposes of the present invention, the term
"silicone oil" means an oil comprising at least one silicon atom,
and especially at least one Si--O group.
[0161] The term "fluoro oil" means an oil comprising at least one
fluorine atom.
[0162] The term "hydrocarbon-based oil" means an oil mainly
containing hydrogen and carbon atoms.
[0163] The oils may optionally comprise oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur
and/or phosphorus atoms, for example in the form of hydroxyl or
acid radicals.
[0164] Volatile Oils
[0165] The volatile oils may be chosen from hydrocarbon-based oils
containing from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and especially
C.sub.8-C.sub.16 branched alkanes (also known as isoparaffins), for
instance isododecane (also known as 2,2,4,4,6-pentamethylheptane),
isodecane and isohexadecane, for instance the oils sold under the
trade names Isopar.RTM. or Permethyl.RTM..
[0166] Volatile oils that may also be used include volatile
silicones, for instance volatile linear or cyclic silicone oils,
especially those with a viscosity of less than or equal to 8
centistokes (cSt) (8.times.10.sup.-6 m.sup.2/s), and especially
containing from 2 to 10 silicon atoms and in particular from 2 to 7
silicon atoms, these silicones optionally comprising alkyl or
alkoxy groups containing from 1 to 10 carbon atoms. As volatile
silicone oils that may be used in the invention, mention may be
made especially of dimethicones with viscosities of 5 and 6 cSt,
octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane,
dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, heptamethylhexyltrisiloxane,
heptamethyloctyltrisiloxane, hexamethyldisiloxane,
octamethyltrisiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane and
dodecamethylpentasiloxane, and mixtures thereof.
[0167] According to one embodiment, a composition of the invention
may comprise from 1% to 80% by zo weight, or even from 5% to 70% by
weight, or even from 10% to 60% by weight and especially from 15%
to 50% by weight of volatile oil relative to the total weight of
the composition.
[0168] Non-Volatile Oils
[0169] The non-volatile oils may be chosen especially from
non-volatile hydrocarbon-based, fluoro and/or silicone oils.
[0170] Non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oils that may especially be
mentioned include: [0171] hydrocarbon-based oils of animal origin,
such as perhydrosqualene, [0172] hydrocarbon-based oils of plant
origin, such as phytostearyl esters, such as phytostearyl oleate,
phytostearyl isostearate and lauroyl/octyldodecyl/phytostearyl
glutamate (Ajinomoto, Eldew PS203), triglycerides formed from fatty
acid esters of glycerol, in particular in which the fatty acids may
have chain lengths ranging from C.sub.4 to C.sub.36 and especially
from C.sub.18 to C.sub.36, these oils possibly being linear or
branched, and saturated or unsaturated; these oils may especially
be heptanoic or octanoic triglycerides, shea oil, alfalfa oil,
poppy oil, winter squash oil, millet oil, barley oil, quinoa oil,
rye oil, candlenut oil, passionflower oil, shea butter, aloe vera
oil, sweet almond oil, peach stone oil, groundnut oil, argan oil,
avocado oil, baobab oil, borage oil, broccoli oil, calendula oil,
camelina oil, canola oil, carrot oil, safflower oil, flax oil,
rapeseed oil, cotton oil, coconut oil, marrow seed oil, wheatgerm
oil, jojoba oil, lily oil, macadamia oil, corn oil, meadowfoam oil,
St John's Wort oil, monoi oil, hazelnut oil, apricot kernel oil,
walnut oil, olive oil, evening primrose oil, palm oil, blackcurrant
pip oil, kiwi seed oil, grapeseed oil, pistachio oil, winter squash
oil, pumpkin oil, musk rose oil, sesame oil, soybean oil, sunflower
oil, castor oil and watermelon seed oil, and mixtures thereof, or
alternatively caprylic/capric acid triglycerides, such as those
sold by the company Stearineries Dubois or those sold under the
names Miglyol 810.RTM., 812.RTM. and 818.RTM. by the company
Dynamit Nobel, [0173] linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or
synthetic origin, such as liquid paraffins and derivatives thereof,
petroleum jelly, polydecenes, polybutenes, hydrogenated
polyisobutene such as Parleam, and squalane; [0174] synthetic
ethers containing from 10 to 40 carbon atoms; [0175] synthetic
esters, for instance the oils of formula R.sub.1COOR.sub.2, in
which R.sub.1 represents a linear or branched fatty acid residue
containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms and R.sub.2 represents a
hydrocarbon-based chain, which is especially branched, containing
from 1 to 40 carbon atoms, on condition that the sum of the number
of carbon atoms in the chains R.sub.1 and R.sub.2 is greater than
or equal to 10. The esters may be chosen especially from fatty acid
esters of alcohols, for instance cetostearyl octanoate, isopropyl
alcohol esters, such as isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate,
ethyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate,
isopropyl isostearate, isostearyl isostearate, octyl stearate,
hydroxylated esters, for instance isostearyl lactate, octyl
hydroxystearate, diisopropyl adipate, heptanoates, and especially
isostearyl heptanoate, alcohol or polyalcohol octanoates,
decanoates or ricinoleates, for instance propylene glycol
dioctanoate, cetyl octanoate, tridecyl octanoate, 2-ethylhexyl
4-diheptanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, alkyl benzoates,
polyethylene glycol diheptanoate, propylene glycol
2-diethylhexanoate, and mixtures thereof, C.sub.12-C.sub.15 alcohol
benzoates, hexyl laurate, neopentanoic acid esters, for instance
isodecyl neopentanoate, isotridecyl neopentanoate, isostearyl
neopentanoate, octyldodecyl neopentanoate, isononanoic acid esters,
for instance isononyl isononanoate, isotridecyl isononanoate, octyl
isononanoate, hydroxylated esters, for instance isostearyl lactate
and diisostearyl malate, [0176] polyol esters and pentaerythritol
esters, for instance dipentaerythrityl
tetrahydroxystearate/tetraisostearate, [0177] esters of diol dimers
and of diacid dimers, such as Lusplan DD-DA5.RTM. and Lusplan
DD-DA7.RTM. sold by the company Nippon Fine Chemical and described
in patent application US 2004-175 338, [0178] copolymers of a diol
dimer and of a diacid dimer and esters thereof, such as dilinoleyl
diol dimer/dilinoleic dimer copolymers and esters thereof, for
instance Plandool-G, [0179] copolymers of polyols and of diacid
dimers, and esters thereof, such as Hailuscent ISDA or the
dilinoleic acid/butanediol copolymer, [0180] fatty alcohols that
are liquid at room temperature, with a branched and/or unsaturated
carbon-based chain containing from 12 to 26 carbon atoms, for
instance 2-octyldodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol,
2-hexyldecanol, 2-butyloctanol and 2-undecylpentadecanol; [0181]
C.sub.12-C.sub.22 higher fatty acids, such as oleic acid, linoleic
acid or linolenic acid, and mixtures thereof, [0182] dialkyl
carbonates, the two alkyl chains possibly being identical or
different, such as dicaprylyl carbonate sold under the name Cetiol
CC.RTM. by Cognis, [0183] oils of high molar mass, in particular
having a molar mass ranging from about 400 to about 10 000 g/mol,
in particular from about 650 to about 10 000 g/mol, in particular
from about 750 to about 7500 g/mol and more particularly ranging
from about 1000 to about 5000 g/mol. As oils of high molar mass
that may be used in the present invention, mention may especially
be made of oils chosen from: [0184] lipophilic polymers, [0185]
linear fatty acid esters with a total carbon number ranging from 35
to 70, [0186] hydroxylated esters, [0187] aromatic esters, [0188]
C.sub.24-C.sub.28 branched fatty acid or fatty alcohol esters,
[0189] silicone oils, [0190] oils of plant origin, and [0191]
mixtures thereof; [0192] optionally partially hydrocarbon-based
and/or silicone fluoro oils, for instance fluorosilicone oils,
fluoropolyethers and fluorosilicones as described in document
EP-A-847 752; [0193] silicone oils, for instance linear or cyclic
non-volatile polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS); polydimethylsiloxanes
comprising alkyl, alkoxy or phenyl groups, which are pendant or at
the end of a silicone chain, these groups containing from 2 to 24
carbon atoms; phenyl silicones, for instance phenyl trimethicones,
phenyl dimethicones, phenyl trimethylsiloxy diphenyl siloxanes,
diphenyl dimethicones, diphenyl methyldiphenyl trisiloxanes and
2-phenylethyl trimethylsiloxy silicates, and [0194] mixtures
thereof.
[0195] According to one particular embodiment, the fatty phase of
the composition according to the invention can contain only
volatile compounds.
[0196] Dyestuffs
[0197] A composition according to the invention may also comprise
at least one dyestuff
[0198] The amount of dyestuff(s) in the base or primer composition
of the invention will generally range from 0 to 5% by weight of
total weight of the composition, in particular from 0.5 to 3% by
weight of total weight of the composition.
[0199] In a particular embodiment, the composition will contain a
low amount of titanium dioxide, ie less than 5% by weight,
preferably less than 3% by weight of titanium dioxide.
[0200] A cosmetic composition in accordance with the invention may
incorporate at least one dyestuff chosen from mineral or organic
pigments conventionally used in cosmetic compositions, liposoluble
or water-soluble dyes, materials with a specific optical effect,
and mixtures thereof.
[0201] The term "pigments" should be understood to mean white or
coloured, inorganic or organic particles which are insoluble in an
aqueous solution and are intended for colouring and/or opacifying
the resulting film.
[0202] As inorganic pigments that can be used in the invention,
mention may be made of titanium oxides, zirconium oxides or cerium
oxides, and also zinc oxides, iron oxides or chromium oxides,
ferric blue, manganese violet, ultramarine blue and chromium
hydrate. According to one particular mode of the invention, the
mineral pigments will be chosen from iron oxides and titanium
oxides, and mixtures thereof.
[0203] It may also be a pigment having a structure that may be, for
example, of sericite/brown iron oxide/titanium dioxide/silica type.
Such a pigment is sold, for example, under the reference Coverleaf
NS or JS by the company Chemicals and Catalysts, and has a contrast
ratio in the region of 30.
[0204] The colorant may also comprise a pigment having a structure
which may be, for example, of the type such as silica microspheres
containing iron oxide. An example of a pigment having this
structure is the product sold by the company Miyoshi under the
reference PC Ball PC-LL-100 P, this pigment being constituted of
silica microspheres containing yellow iron oxide.
[0205] Among the organic pigments that may be used in the
invention, mention may be made of carbon black, pigments of D&C
type, lakes based on cochineal carmine or on barium, strontium,
calcium or aluminium, or alternatively the diketopyrrolopyrroles
(DPP) described in documents EP 0 542 669, EP 0 787 730, EP 0 787
731 and WO 96/08537.
[0206] The cosmetic composition according to the invention may also
comprise water-soluble or fat-soluble dyes. The liposoluble dyes
are, for example, Sudan red, DC Red 17, DC Green 6,
.beta.-carotene, soybean oil, Sudan brown, DC Yellow 11, DC Violet
2, DC Orange 5 and quinoline yellow. The water-soluble dyes are,
for example, beetroot juice and caramel.
[0207] Additional Fillers
[0208] A composition in accordance with the invention may also
comprise at least one additional filler, of organic or mineral
nature, making it possible especially to give it additional
matt-effect or covering properties, and/or improved stability with
regard to exudation and migration-resistance properties after
application.
[0209] The term "filler" should be understood to mean colourless or
white solid particles of any shape which are in a form that is
insoluble and dispersed in the medium of the composition. These
particles, of mineral or organic nature, can give body or rigidity
to the composition and/or softness and uniformity to the
makeup.
[0210] The fillers used in the compositions according to the
present invention may be in lamellar, globular or spherical form,
in the form of fibres or in any other intermediate form between
these defined forms.
[0211] The fillers according to the invention may or may not be
surface-coated, and in particular they may be surface-treated with
silicones, amino acids, fluoro derivatives or any other substance
that promotes the dispersion and compatibility of the filler in the
composition.
[0212] Examples of mineral fillers that may be mentioned include
talc, mica, silica, kaolin, calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate,
hydroxyapatite, glass or ceramic microcapsules.
[0213] Examples of organic fillers that may be mentioned include
polyethylene powder or polymethyl methacrylate powder,
polytetrafluoroethylene (Teflon) powders, lauroyllysine,
hexamethylene diisocyanate/trimethylol hexyl lactone copolymer
powder (Plastic Powder from Toshiki), silicone resin microbeads
(for example Tospearl from Toshiba), natural or synthetic
micronized waxes, metal soaps derived from organic carboxylic acids
containing from 8 to 22 carbon atoms and preferably from 12 to 18
carbon atoms, for example zinc stearate, magnesium stearate,
lithium stearate, zinc laurate or magnesium myristate, and
polyurethane powders, in particular crosslinked polyurethane
powders comprising a copolymer, the said copolymer comprising
trimethylol hexyl lactone. It may in particular be a hexamethylene
diisocyanate/trimethylol hexyl lactone polymer. Such particles are
especially commercially available, for example, under the name
Plastic Powder D-400.RTM. or Plastic Powder D-800.RTM. from the
company Toshiki, and mixtures thereof.
[0214] Additives
[0215] In a particular embodiment, a cosmetic composition according
to the invention further comprises at least one compound chosen
from water, hydrophilic solvents, lipophilic solvents, oils, and
mixtures thereof.
[0216] A cosmetic composition according to the invention may also
comprise any additive usually used in the field under
consideration, chosen, for example, from gums, anionic, cationic,
amphoteric or nonionic surfactants, silicone surfactants, resins,
thickening agents, structuring agents such as waxes, dispersants,
antioxidants, essential oils, preserving agents, fragrances,
neutralizers, antiseptics, UV-screening agents, cosmetic active
agents, such as vitamins, moisturizers, emollients or
collagen-protecting agents, and mixtures thereof.
[0217] It is a matter of routine operations for a person skilled in
the art to adjust the nature and amount of the additives present in
the compositions in accordance with the invention such that the
desired cosmetic properties and stability properties thereof are
not thereby affected.
[0218] A cosmetic composition of the invention may be in the form
of a skin makeup product, in particular a foundation, a hot-cast
foundation product, a body makeup product, a concealer, an
eyeshadow or a lipstick. It may be in the form of an anhydrous gel,
in the form of a stick or wand, or in the form of a soft paste.
[0219] A care composition according to the invention may in
particular be an antisun composition. Preferably, the composition
according to the invention is in the form of a fluid primer or a
fluid foundation.
[0220] In a particular embodiment, the composition is an
emulsion.
[0221] The invention also concerns a cosmetic process comprising a
step of applying at least one layer of the cosmetic composition
according to the invention, onto the skin, in particular the skin
of the face. In a particular embodiment, the cosmetic composition
is applied alone or as a base or primer under a skin care product
or a make up product.
[0222] The cosmetic process is particularly intended to decrease
the visibility of skin imperfections, in particular the pores and
make the pore hiding effect long lasting.
EXAMPLES
[0223] All compositions are written with percentages by weight.
They were prepared according to the same protocol: mix oil phase
ingredients together and heat up to 60-80.degree. C. until wax is
melted, disperse pigments and fillers inside the oil phase then
proceed to emulsification by adding water phase ingredients.
Example 1
Effect of the Combination of Filler with RI>1.6, Silicon
Elastomer and Filler Having Oil Absorption>1 ml/g on Pore Hiding
and Long Lasting
[0224] Compared to original formula F1, the following modifications
were done: [0225] silicon elastomer (DC9041) was replaced by
dimethicone (Silicone Fluid 5CS) in formula F2 boron nitride
(Softouch) was replaced by a low refractive index plate type
filler, talc (Luzenac 00) in formula F3 and by a large size plate
type filler, TiO.sub.2 coated mica pearl (Flamenco Blue) in formula
F4 [0226] porous PMMA (Covabead) was replaced by non-porous PMMA
(Micropearl M100) in formula F5
TABLE-US-00001 [0226] F1 F2 F3 F4 F5 INCI invention comparative
comparative comparative comparative Dimethicone (Silicone Fluid
22.00 22.00 22.00 22.00 22.00 2CS) Dimethicone (Silicone Fluid --
16.00 -- -- -- 5CS) Dimethicone-PEG/PPG- 2.00 2.00 2.00 2.00 2.00
18/8 Dimethicone (X-22- 6711D) PEG-10 Dimethicone (KF- 1.00 1.00
1.00 1.00 1.00 6017) Dimethicone-Dimethicone 16.00 -- 16.00 16.00
16.00 crosspolymer (Dow Corning 9041) Tribehenin (Syncrowax HR-
1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 C) Ethylhexyl 5.00 5.00 5.00 5.00 5.00
methoxycinnamate (Parsol MCX) Iron oxides-Disodium 0.22 0.22 0.22
0.22 0.22 stearoyl glutamate- Aluminium dioxide (NAI- C33-9001)
Iron oxides-Disodium 0.06 0.06 0.06 0.06 0.06 stearoyl glutamate-
Aluminium dioxide (NAI- C33-8001) Titanium dioxide-Disodium 2.72
2.72 2.72 2.72 2.72 stearoyl glutamate- Aluminium dioxide (NAI-
TAO-77891) Boron nitride (Softouch 3.00 3.00 -- -- 3.00 CC6058)
Talc (Luzenac 00) -- -- 3.00 -- -- Mica-Titanium dioxide -- -- --
3.00 -- (Flamenco Blue 620C) Methyl methacrylate 2.00 2.00 2.00
2.00 -- crosspolymer (Covabead LH85) Polymethyl methacrylate -- --
-- -- 2.00 (Micropearl M100) Magnesium sulfate 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00
1.00 Phenoxyethanol 0.50 0.50 0.50 0.50 0.50 Caprylyl glycol 0.50
0.50 0.50 0.50 0.50 Butylene glycol 2.00 2.00 2.00 2.00 2.00
Glycerin 3.00 3.00 3.00 3.00 3.00 Water 34.00 34.00 34.00 34.00
34.00 Alcohol 4.00 4.00 4.00 4.00 4.00 TOTAL 100 100 100 100
100
[0227] Refrative indexes of boron nitride (Softouch) and talc
(Luzenac 00) are respectively about 1.65 and 1.58 (<1.6).
[0228] Average particle sizes of boron nitride (Softouch) and TiO2
coated mica (Flamenco Blue 620C) are respectively about 11 .mu.m
and 22 .mu.m (>20 .mu.m).
[0229] Oil absorption capacities of porous PMMA (Covabead) and
non-porous PMMA (Micropearl M100) are respectively about 1.2 ml/g
and 0.5 ml/g (<1 ml/g).
[0230] The formulas where tested in an expert evaluation wherein
the following criteria were evaluated: pore hiding, skin
brightening, color homogeneity, long lasting. The test consists in
the application of 0.1 g of product on half face of 6 different
panelists to see the differences between two formulas
[0231] The results are presented in the table hereunder:
[0232] +++: very high effect
[0233] ++: high effect
[0234] +/-: low effect
[0235] -: no effect
TABLE-US-00002 TABLE 1 Results F1 F2 F3 F4 F5 Attribute (invention)
(comparative) (comparative) (comparative) comparative Pore hiding
+++ - +/- - ++ Skin brightening ++ ++ +/- ++ ++ Color +++ +/- ++ -
+/- homogeneity Long lasting ++ - - - +/-
[0236] The formula F1 shows better pore hiding effect than formulas
F2, F3, F4 and F5. Moreover, lasting of pore hiding effect is
better for formula F1 than for formula F5. As a result, the
association of plate type filler with high refractive index
(>1.6), silicon elastomer and filler with strong oil absorption
capacity (>1 ml/1 g) is able to decrease the visibility of pores
and to keep this effect during the day.
Example 2
Make-Up Base Formulas
[0237] Here are other examples of makeup base formulas with good
properties in term of pore hiding effect, skin brightening, color
homogeneity and long lasting, including similar fillers
association.
TABLE-US-00003 INCI F6 F7 Dimethicone (Silicone Fluid 2CS) 23.00
23.00 Dimethicone-PEG/PPG-18/8 Dimethicone (X-22-6711D) 2.00 2.00
PEG-10 Dimethicone (KF-6017) 1.00 1.00 Dimethicone-Dimethicone
crosspolymer (Dow Corning 12.00 12.00 9041) Tribehenin (Syncrowax
HR-C) 1.00 1.00 Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate (Parsol MCX) 6.00 6.00
Iron oxides-Disodium stearoyl glutamate-Aluminium 0.11 0.11 dioxide
(NAI-C33-9001) Iron oxides-Disodium stearoyl glutamate-Aluminium
0.05 0.05 dioxide (NAI-C33-8001) Titanium dioxide-Disodium stearoyl
glutamate- 2.34 2.34 Aluminium dioxide (NAI-TAO-77891) Boron
nitride (Softouch CC6058) 3.00 -- Boron nitride (PUHP 1030L) 3.00
Vinyl dimethicone/Methicone silsesquioxane (KSP100) 4.00 4.00
Methyl methacrylate crosspolymer (Covabead LH85) 2.00 2.00 Silica
silylate (VM-2270 Aerogel) 0.50 0.50 Magnesium sulfate 0.70 0.70
Phenoxyethanol 0.50 0.50 Caprylyl glycol 0.50 0.50 Butylene glycol
2.00 2.00 Glycerin 3.00 3.00 Water 32.30 32.30 Alcohol 4.00 4.00
TOTAL 100 100
[0238] Sensorial Evaluation
[0239] After application on the skin, the formulas makes the pores
less visible and keep the covering pores during the day. It spread
smoothly, the texture was soft and did not make the skin feel and
look dry during the day, nor the skin have oily shine badly.
[0240] Effect as a Make-Up Base or Primer Under a Foundation
[0241] F6 formula was also found to improve lasting of overall
makeup result and especially mat effect when it was applied as a
base layer before foundation. Instrumental evaluation of mat effect
with polarimetric camera was performed on 8 different panelists
after application of `TWC` (Two Way Cake) foundation only or above
mentioned makeup base (MUB) and foundation (0.1 g on half face for
each). After 3 h, mat effect was better when makeup base was
applied before foundation.
TABLE-US-00004 TABLE 2 Polarimetric camera data Product Mat
(Timm-T0) Mat (T3h-T0) Mat (T3h-Timm) F8 -8.59 .+-. 2.96 0.73 .+-.
5.82 9.32 .+-. 4.44 F6 + F8 -14.43 .+-. 3.49 -9.02 .+-. 4.09 5.41
.+-. 1.96 TWC foundation formula used in instrumental test INCI F8
Talc-Dimethicone (SA-13R) 42.47 Mica (Sericite SL) 18.00 Nylon-12
6.00 Vinyl dimethicone/Methicone 6.00 silsesquioxane (KSP100)
Titanium dioxide 14.00 Iron oxides 2.83 Caprylic/Capric
triglyceride 2.00 Dimethicone (KF-96A) 5.30 Ethylhexyl
methoxycinnamate 3.00 (Parsol MCX) Preservatives 0.40 TOTAL 100
[0242] Application of a make-up base according to the invention
makes the overall look with other makeup product last longer and
beautify the look after other face makeup. It is easy for next-step
face makeup to apply smoothly and evenly whiten skin tone.
* * * * *