U.S. patent application number 14/344392 was filed with the patent office on 2014-09-25 for inner phase thickened water-in-oil cosmetic composition.
This patent application is currently assigned to AMOREPACIFIC CORPORATION. The applicant listed for this patent is Kyung Ho Choi, Yeong Jin Choi, Kyung Nam Kim. Invention is credited to Kyung Ho Choi, Yeong Jin Choi, Kyung Nam Kim.
Application Number | 20140288191 14/344392 |
Document ID | / |
Family ID | 47883506 |
Filed Date | 2014-09-25 |
United States Patent
Application |
20140288191 |
Kind Code |
A1 |
Kim; Kyung Nam ; et
al. |
September 25, 2014 |
INNER PHASE THICKENED WATER-IN-OIL COSMETIC COMPOSITION
Abstract
Provided is a water-in-oil cosmetic composition comprising one
or more thickening agents selected from the group consisting of
sodium polyacrylate starch, polyacrylate crosspolymer-6, xanthan
gum and locust bean gum in an inner phase. The water-in-oil
cosmetic composition of the present invention brings improvements
to time-related changes in preparation stability by means of inner
phase thickening controlling the flow properties of an aqueous
phase, and controls the size of emulsified particles by means of
inner phase thickening, and as a result the invention has
outstanding thixotropic characteristics and outstanding initial
spreadability and has outstanding durability and, in addition, the
invention provides both a fresh-cream-like soft feel in use and a
liquid-like light feel in use.
Inventors: |
Kim; Kyung Nam; (Yongin-si,
KR) ; Choi; Kyung Ho; (Yongin-si, KR) ; Choi;
Yeong Jin; (Yongin-si, KR) |
|
Applicant: |
Name |
City |
State |
Country |
Type |
Kim; Kyung Nam
Choi; Kyung Ho
Choi; Yeong Jin |
Yongin-si
Yongin-si
Yongin-si |
|
KR
KR
KR |
|
|
Assignee: |
AMOREPACIFIC CORPORATION
Seoul
KR
|
Family ID: |
47883506 |
Appl. No.: |
14/344392 |
Filed: |
September 14, 2012 |
PCT Filed: |
September 14, 2012 |
PCT NO: |
PCT/KR2012/007384 |
371 Date: |
March 12, 2014 |
Current U.S.
Class: |
514/772.4 ;
514/777 |
Current CPC
Class: |
A61K 8/73 20130101; A61K
8/91 20130101; A61Q 1/00 20130101; A61K 8/737 20130101; A61K 8/064
20130101; A61Q 1/02 20130101; A61Q 19/00 20130101; A61K 2800/10
20130101; A61K 2800/48 20130101; A61K 8/8152 20130101 |
Class at
Publication: |
514/772.4 ;
514/777 |
International
Class: |
A61K 8/81 20060101
A61K008/81; A61Q 1/00 20060101 A61Q001/00; A61K 8/73 20060101
A61K008/73 |
Foreign Application Data
Date |
Code |
Application Number |
Sep 16, 2011 |
KR |
10-2011-0093633 |
Claims
1. A water in oil type cosmetic composition comprising, in its
inner phase, at least one thickening agent selected from the group
consisting of sodium polyacrylate starch, polyacrylate
crosspolymer-6, xanthan gum and locust beam gum.
2. The water in oil type cosmetic composition according to claim 1,
wherein the thickening agent is at least one of sodium polyacrylate
starch and polyacrylate crosspolymer-6.
3. The water in oil type cosmetic composition according to claim 1,
wherein the thickening agent is used in an amount of 0.01-5.0 wt %
based on the total weight of the composition.
4. The water in oil type cosmetic composition according to claim 1,
which has thixotropy.
5. The water in oil type cosmetic composition according to claim 1,
which is a makeup cosmetic composition.
6. The water in oil type cosmetic composition according to claim 2,
which has thixotropy.
7. The water in oil type cosmetic composition according to claim 3,
which has thixotropy.
8. The water in oil type cosmetic composition according to claim 2,
which is a makeup cosmetic composition.
9. The water in oil type cosmetic composition according to claim 3,
which is a makeup cosmetic composition.
Description
TECHNICAL FIELD
[0001] The present disclosure relates to an inner phase-thickened
water in oil type cosmetic composition. More particularly, the
present disclosure relates to a water in oil type cosmetic
composition including a thickening agent that controls the
flowability of an aqueous phase portion and having excellent
formulation stability and thixotropic properties.
BACKGROUND ART
[0002] In the field of cosmetics, technology of controlling the
flowability of a formulation is one of the technologies that has
been developed and advanced continuously to date. It is the reason
why controlling the flowability of a cosmetic product is important
that a cosmetic product has low flowability during the storage
before its application, is converted to fluid having high
flowability under the friction during its application, and provides
various functions as cosmetics while its flowability disappears in
the absence of friction. Such a phenomenon including an increase in
flowability due to the friction in a cosmetic agent and a drop in
flowability due to the extinction of friction is referred to as
thixotropy.
[0003] In general, when applying a cosmetic agent to the skin, the
resistance experienced by the hands and skin is pointed out as a
negative factor, such as dryness or stifling feel. Thus, easy
spreadability upon skin application has been regarded as one of the
important factors determining the quality of a cosmetic product.
The above-mentioned thixotropy may be manifested as light
spreadability in the case of moisturizing cream or the like, as
application uniformity of a pigment expressing skin color and a
thin cosmetic film in the case of makeup cosmetics including
foundation, and as high UV protecting efficiency derived from
application uniformity of a UV protecting ingredient in the case of
UV protecting agents.
[0004] Water in oil type flow controlling agents that have been
developed to date may be classified broadly into inorganic flow
controlling agents and organic flow controlling agents. While
inorganic flow controlling agents include organic smectite obtained
by surface treatment of smectite derived from clay so as to be
applied to oil as a continuous phase, organic flow controlling
agents include low-melting point wax, dextrin palmitate,
trihydroxystearin or the like.
[0005] Meanwhile, emulsion formulations may be classified broadly
into oil in water cosmetic agents and water in oil cosmetic agents.
In the case of oil in water cosmetic agents, the outer phase is
formed of water. In the case of water in oil cosmetic agents, the
outer phase is formed of an oil phase. In general, thickening is
performed merely in the outer phase to control the properties, such
as hardness and viscosity, related to the appearance of a
formulation. However, there have been little studies about
improvement of the properties, stability and feel in use of a
formulation based on the thickening of an inner phase of
emulsion.
DISCLOSURE
Technical Problem
[0006] A technical problem to be solved by the present disclosure
is to provide a cosmetic composition having high formulation
stability and excellent thixotropic properties and thus showing a
liquid-like light feel in use despite its formulation as cream. In
the cosmetic composition according to the present disclosure, the
aqueous phase as inner phase of a water in oil cosmetic agent is
thickened with no use of a dispersant or wax in a water in oil
emulsion type makeup formulation, thereby controlling the
flowability of aqueous phase. Another technical problem to be
solved by the present disclosure is to provide a water in oil
emulsion type makeup cosmetic composition which has high stability
with time through the inner phase thickening using a thickening
agent controlling the flowability of an aqueous phase, and provides
a fresh cream-like soft feel in use.
Technical Solution
[0007] In one general aspect, there is provided a water in oil type
cosmetic composition including, in its inner phase, at least one
thickening agent selected from the group consisting of sodium
polyacrylate starch, polyacrylate crosspolymer-6, xanthan gum and
locust beam gum.
[0008] According to an embodiment, the thickening agent may be at
least one of sodium polyacrylate starch and polyacrylate
crosspolymer-6.
[0009] According to another embodiment, the thickening agent may be
used in an amount of 0.01-5.0 wt % based on the total weight of the
composition.
[0010] According to still another embodiment, the composition may
have thixotropy.
[0011] According to yet another embodiment, the composition may be
a makeup cosmetic composition.
Advantageous Effects
[0012] According to the embodiments of the present disclosure, the
water in oil type cosmetic composition uses inner phase thickening
controlling the flowability of an aqueous phase to improve
variations in formulation stability with time and to control the
size of emulsion particles, thereby providing excellent thixotropic
properties and initial spreadability, high durability, a fresh
cream-like soft feel in use and a liquid-like light feel in
use.
DESCRIPTION OF DRAWINGS
[0013] FIG. 1 is an SEM (scanning electron microscopy) image (a)
and particle size distribution graph (b) of sodium polyacrylate
starch contained in the cosmetic composition according to an
embodiment of the present disclosure.
[0014] FIG. 2 is a graph illustrating the thixotropic properties of
the cosmetic composition according to an embodiment of the present
disclosure.
[0015] FIG. 3 to FIG. 5 are electron microscopy images of the
cosmetic composition according to an embodiment of the present
disclosure.
BEST MODE
[0016] Hereinafter, exemplary embodiments now will be described
more detail to provide the present disclosure fully understood to
carry out by those skilled in the art.
[0017] In an aspect, there is provided a cosmetic composition. The
cosmetic composition is a water in oil type cosmetic composition
including an outer phase and an inner phase, wherein the inner
phase includes at least one thickening agent selected from the
group consisting of sodium polyacrylate starch, polyacrylate
crosspolymer-6, xanthan gum and locust bean gum.
[0018] The water in oil type emulsion makeup cosmetic composition
according to the present disclosure uses inner phase thickening to
control the flowability of an aqueous phase. It is shown that such
inner phase thickening minimizes variations in formulation
stability with time.
[0019] Water-soluble thickening agents may be classified into
inorganic thickening agents including inorganic metal oxides and
organic thickening agents including water-soluble polymer
materials. According to an embodiment, water-soluble inorganic
thickening agents having great possibility of skin allergy are not
used but water-soluble organic thickening agents of polysaccharides
are used.
[0020] The thickening agent may be at least one selected from the
group consisting of sodium polyacrylate starch, polyacrylate
crosspolymer-6, xanthan gum and locust bean gum. More preferably,
the thickening agent may be at least one of sodium polyacrylate
starch and polyacrylate crosspolymer-6. Most preferably, the
thickening agent may be sodium polyacrylate starch. However, any
thickening agent may be used with no particular limitation, as long
as it causes an increase in viscosity. FIG. 1 shows an SEM image
(a) and particle size distribution graph (b) of sodium polyacrylate
starch. After determining the average particle size of sodium
polyacrylate starch by Mastersizer, it is 12 .mu.m.
[0021] The thickening agent may be used in an amount of 0.01-5.0 wt
% based on the total weight of the composition. More preferably, it
may be used in an amount of 0.05-1.0 wt %. When the thickening
agent is used in an amount less than 0.01 wt %, it is not possible
to obtain a sufficient thickening effect. When the thickening agent
is used in an amount greater than 5.0 wt %, the viscosity of
aqueous phase increases excessively, and thus the composition takes
the form of hard solid gel, has high stickiness and does not
provide properties as a makeup cosmetic composition any longer.
Moreover, in the latter case, the composition undergoes pigment
agglomeration upon emulsification and has poor stability due to its
unstable emulsion state.
[0022] The composition according to the present disclosure has
thixotropy. Thixotropic properties, also called thixotropy, are
referred to as properties including an increase in flowability
caused by friction and a drop in flowability upon extinction of
friction. By virtue of such thixotropy, the composition according
to the present disclosure shows increased flowability upon friction
against the skin when applying it to the skin, and is spread on the
skin softly and smoothly, thereby providing excellent spreadability
and feel in use. After the skin application, the composition
according to the present disclosure has decreased flowability,
thereby providing excellent durability. Particularly, the
composition according to the present disclosure does not use a
dispersant and wax but is based on inner phase thickening to
control the flowability. Thus, the composition according to the
present disclosure is produced in a simple manner, and has a light
feel in use and high durability.
[0023] Pigments used in water in oil emulsion may be classified
into water-based dispersion pigments and oil-based dispersion
pigments, depending on dispersed phases of pigments. In general, in
the case of water in oil emulsion, a pigment coated with
alkylsilane or dimethicone is dispersed into an oil-based outer
phase. In this case, the pigment is positioned at the outer part of
emulsion, and thus is more stable as compared to the dispersion
into a water-based inner phase. However, when the pigment is
dispersed into the water-based inner phase rather than oil-based
outer phase, it is possible to carry out dispersion of pigment in a
greater amount more homogeneously. In fact, it has been reported
that oil phase dispersion causes significant filling-up and aqueous
phase (inner phase) dispersion improves such filling-up.
[0024] Therefore, according to the present disclosure, the pigment
is dispersed into an aqueous phase. Although there is no particular
limitation in pigments for this purpose, a silica-coated pigment is
used preferably. The surface of pigment is provided with
hydrophilic properties by virtue of such silica coating, thereby
ensuring dispersibility.
[0025] There is no particular limitation in the formulation of
cosmetic composition according to the present disclosure, and any
formulation may be selected suitably as desired. For example, the
cosmetic composition may be provided as at least one formulation
selected from the group consisting of skin lotion, skin softener,
skin toner, astringent, lotion, milk lotion, moisture lotion,
nourishing lotion, massage cream, nourishing cream, moisture cream,
hand cream, foundation, makeup base, primer, essence, nourishing
essence, pack, soap, cleansing foam, cleansing lotion, cleansing
cream, body lotion and body cleanser. Preferably, the formulation
is foundation, makeup base or primer, but is not limited
thereto.
[0026] When the cosmetic composition is provided as a formulation
of paste, cream or gel, animal fibers, vegetable fibers, wax,
paraffin, starch, tragacanth, cellulose derivatives, polyethylene
glycol, silicone, bentonite, silica, talk or zinc oxide may be used
as a carrier ingredient.
[0027] When the cosmetic composition is provided as a formulation
of powder or spray, lactose, talc, silica, aluminum hydroxide,
calcium silicate or polyamide powder may be used as a carrier
ingredient. Particularly, in the case of spray, a propellant, such
as chlorofluorohydrocarbon, propane/butane or dimethyl ether, may
be further used.
[0028] When the cosmetic composition is provided as a formulation
of solution or emulsion, a solvent, solvating agent or emulsifier
may be used as a carrier ingredient, and particular examples
thereof include water, ethanol, isopropanol, ethyl carbonate, ethyl
acetate, benzyl alcohol, benzyl benzoate, propylene glycol,
1,3-butylene glycol oil, glycerol fatty ester, polyethylene glycol
or sorbitan fatty acid ester.
[0029] When the cosmetic composition is provided as a formulation
of suspension, a liquid diluent such as water, ethanol or propylene
glycol, a suspending agent such as ethoxylated isostearyl alcohol,
polyoxyethylene sorbitol ester or polyoxyethylene sorbitan ester,
microcrystalline cellulose, aluminum meta-hydroxide, bentonite,
agar, tragacanth or the like may be used.
[0030] When the cosmetic composition is provided a formulation of
surfactant-containing cleanser, aliphatic alcohol sulfate,
aliphatic alcohol ether sulfate, sulfosuccinic acid monoester,
isethionate, imidazolinium derivative, methyl taurate, sarcosinate,
fatty acid amide ether sulfate, alkylamidobetain, aliphatic
alcohol, fatty acid glyceride, fatty acid diethanol amide,
vegetable oil, linoline derivative or ethoxylated glycerol fatty
acid ester or the like may be used as a carrier ingredient.
[0031] The cosmetic composition may further include functional
additives and other ingredients used in conventional cosmetic
compositions. Such functional additives include any ingredients
selected from the group consisting of water-soluble vitamins,
oil-soluble vitamins, polymeric peptides, polysaccharides,
spingolipids and seaweed extract.
[0032] The cosmetic composition may be formulated by using any
desired ingredients used in conventional cosmetic compositions in
addition to such functional additives. Such ingredients may include
fat and oil ingredients, moisturizing agents, emollients,
surfactants, organic and inorganic pigments, organic powder, UV
absorbing agents, preservatives, sterilizing agents, antioxidants,
plant extract, pH modifiers, alcohols, colorants, fragrant, blood
circulation accelerators, coolants, antiperspirants, purified water
or the like.
[0033] The present disclosure now will be described in more detail
hereinafter with reference to Examples. However, the present
disclosure may be embodied in many different forms and should not
be construed as limited to the exemplary embodiments set forth
therein.
EXAMPLES 1-4 AND COMPARATIVE EXAMPLE 1
[0034] Water in oil emulsion formulations of Comparative Example 1
and Examples 1-4 are obtained by using the formulations as shown in
Table 1 in the conventional manner. Comparative Example 1 is the
control using no aqueous phase thickening agent, and Examples 1-4
are obtained by using an aqueous phase thickening agent.
TABLE-US-00001 TABLE 1 Item Ingredients Comp. Ex. 1 Ex. 1 Ex. 2 Ex.
3 Ex. 4 Emulsifier LaurylPEG-9 3.0 3.0 3.0 3.0 3.0
polydimethylsiloxyethyl dimethicone Sorbitan isostearate 1.0 1.0
1.0 1.0 1.0 Oil phase Decamethylcyclopenta 20.0 20.0 20.0 20.0 20.0
ingredients siloxane Dicaprylyl carbonate 10.00 10.00 10.00 10.00
10.00 Squalane 10.00 10.00 10.00 10.00 10.00 Oil phase
Distearmonium hectorite 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 thickening agent
Aqueous Purified water To 100 To 100 To 100 To 100 To 100 phase
Butylene glycol 4.0 4.0 4.0 4.0 4.0 ingredients Glycerin 4.0 4.0
4.0 4.0 4.0 Phenoxyethanol 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 Aqueous Xanthan gum
-- 0.5 -- -- -- phase Locust bean gum -- -- 0.5 -- -- thickening
Polyacrylate -- -- -- 0.5 -- agent crosspolymer-6 Sodium
polyacrylate -- -- -- -- 0.5 starch
TEST EXAMPLE 1
Test for Determining Stability Depending on Aqueous Phase
Thickening Agent
[0035] The emulsion stability and variations in hardness with time
are evaluated depending on the particular type of water-soluble
thickening agent by using Examples 1-4 and Comparative Example
1.
[0036] Evaluation of emulsion stability is carried out by measuring
the stability for 1 week in a shaking incubator capable of
temperature control. One temperature cycle includes --10.degree.
C., 30.degree. C. and 45.degree. C. each for 8 hours. Emulsion
stability is determined for 7 days in 1 cycle per day by observing
occurrence of oil separation, band formation, precipitation, etc.
For all samples, data are acquired five times to obtain results.
When a sample shows no abnormality for 5 times, it is expressed by
.largecircle.. When a sample shows abnormality for 1.about.2 times,
it is expressed by .DELTA.. When a sample shows abnormality for 3
times or more, it is expressed by X. Pigment dispersibility is
determined by a dispersion degree of pigment in an aqueous phase,
and evaluated according to the same criteria as the emulsion
stability.
[0037] Variations in hardness with time are determined by measuring
the hardness of a sample by Rheometer (CR-500DX, Sun Scientific),
after the prepared sample is stored in a constant-temperature bath
at 30.degree. C. Hardness is compared between the sample after
preparation and the sample after 1 week to determine the stability.
The results are shown in Table 2.
TABLE-US-00002 TABLE 2 Comp. Ex. 1 Ex. 1 Ex. 2 Ex. 3 Ex. 4 1 2 3 4
5 Emulsion X .DELTA. .DELTA. .smallcircle. .smallcircle. stability
Variations in -28% -15% -8% +9.5% +13.6% hardness with time
[0038] As can be seen from Table 2, only Comparative 1 using no
aqueous phase thickening shows poor stability. Examples 1-4
substantially maintain their stabilities. In addition, as compared
to Examples 1 and 2 (xanthan gum, locust bean gum), thickening in
Examples 3 and 4 (sodium polyacrylate starch, polyacrylate
crosspolymer-6) provides higher stability. In terms of variations
in hardness with time, Examples 3 and 4 maintain their most stable
states with no drop in hardness.
TEST EXAMPLE 2
Images Taken by Electron Microscope
[0039] Comparative Example 1, and Examples 3 and 4 are imaged by
electron microscopy. The results of Comparative Example 1, Example
3 and Example 4 are shown in FIG. 3, FIG. 4 and FIG. 5,
respectively.
[0040] As can be seen from FIG. 3 to FIG. 5, the emulsion particles
of Example 4 form a bi-modal condition and realize a feel in use
caused by easy collapse of the particles.
PREPARATION EXAMPLE
Preparation of Foundation
[0041] A pigment is added to each of Comparative Example 1 and
Example 4 (according to the composition as shown in Table 3) to
obtain water in oil emulsion foundation in the conventional manner.
Comparative Example 1 is the control using no aqueous phase
thickening agent. Example 4 having high emulsion stability and
showing the lowest variation in hardness with time is used.
TABLE-US-00003 TABLE 3 Comp. Ex. Item Ingredient 1 Ex. 4 Emulsifier
LaurylPEG-9 3.0 3.0 polydimethylsiloxy- ethyldimethic one Sorbitan
isostearate 1.0 1.0 Oil phase Decamethylcyclopenta- 20.0 20.0
ingredients siloxane Dicaprylyl carbonate 10.00 10.00 Squalane
10.00 10.00 Oil phase thick- Distearmonium hectorite 1.0 1.0 ening
agent Pigment Oil phase pigment 10.0 10.0 Aqueous phase Purified
water To 100 To 100 ingredients Butylene glycol 4.0 4.0 Glycerin
4.0 4.0 Phenoxyethanol 0.3 0.3 Aqueous phase Sodium Polyacrylate
starch -- 0.5 thickening agent
TEST EXAMPLE 3
Test for Determining Thixotropy, Easy Spreadability and Uniform
Applicability
[0042] The foundation obtained from the above Preparation Example
is observed in terms of its thixotropy, easy spreadability and
uniform applicability. The thixotropy is determined by RHEOMETER
AR2000 (TA Instruments, England) and the results are shown in Table
4 and FIG. 2. Easy spreadability and uniform applicability are
determined based on the test scores from professional panels by
taking score 5 as the highest score. The results are shown in Table
4.
TABLE-US-00004 TABLE 4 Uniform Item Thixotropy Easy spreadability
Applicability Comp. Ex. 1 poor 3.1 2.8 Ex. 4 High 4.8 4.6
[0043] As can be seen from Table 4 and FIG. 2, the foundation using
Example 4 provides higher thixotropy, easy spreadability and
uniform applicability as compared to the foundation using
Comparative Example 1.
* * * * *