U.S. patent application number 13/721835 was filed with the patent office on 2014-06-26 for water-in-oil emulsion comprising pigments in the water phase.
This patent application is currently assigned to L'OREAL. The applicant listed for this patent is L'OREAL. Invention is credited to Ashini Amin, Gisela M. Perruna.
Application Number | 20140178320 13/721835 |
Document ID | / |
Family ID | 50944007 |
Filed Date | 2014-06-26 |
United States Patent
Application |
20140178320 |
Kind Code |
A1 |
Perruna; Gisela M. ; et
al. |
June 26, 2014 |
WATER-IN-OIL EMULSION COMPRISING PIGMENTS IN THE WATER PHASE
Abstract
Provided is a composition and especially a cosmetic composition
comprising: A) an oily phase and B) an aqueous phase which
comprises: a) water, b) a pigment, c) a modified phospholipid, and
d) an alkyl substituted diol comprising 5 or more carbons; wherein
the composition is in the form of an water-in-oil emulsion, and
wherein the pigment essentially remains in the water phase. Also
provide is a method of producing the composition which comprises:
1) obtaining a mixture of a modified phospholipid and an alkyl
substituted diol comprising 5 or more carbons in the alkyl chain;
2) obtaining a mixture of water and a pigment; 3) combining the
mixture of the modified phospholipids and the alkyl substituted
diol with the mixture of the pigment and water; 4) obtaining an oil
composition; and 5) combining the mixture from 3) with the oil
composition of 4) to form an water-in-oil emulsion.
Inventors: |
Perruna; Gisela M.; (Rahway,
NJ) ; Amin; Ashini; (Monroe, NJ) |
|
Applicant: |
Name |
City |
State |
Country |
Type |
L'OREAL |
Paris |
|
FR |
|
|
Assignee: |
L'OREAL
Paris
FR
|
Family ID: |
50944007 |
Appl. No.: |
13/721835 |
Filed: |
December 20, 2012 |
Current U.S.
Class: |
424/63 ;
424/70.6 |
Current CPC
Class: |
A61Q 5/065 20130101;
A61K 2800/43 20130101; A61K 8/92 20130101; A61K 8/345 20130101;
A61K 8/064 20130101; A61K 8/553 20130101; A61Q 1/02 20130101 |
Class at
Publication: |
424/63 ;
424/70.6 |
International
Class: |
A61K 8/92 20060101
A61K008/92; A61Q 5/06 20060101 A61Q005/06; A61Q 1/02 20060101
A61Q001/02 |
Claims
1. A composition comprising: A) an oily phase and B) an aqueous
phase which comprises: a) water, b) at least one pigment, c) at
least about 0.1% by weight based upon the weight of the composition
of at least one modified phospholipid, and d) at least about 0.1%
by weight based upon the weight of the composition of at least one
alkyl substituted chain diol comprising 5 or more carbons; wherein
the composition is in the form of an water-in-oil emulsion, and
wherein the at least one pigment essentially remains in the water
phase.
2. The composition of claim 1, wherein the at least one modified
phospholipid is at least one member selected from the group
consisting of lecithin and hydrogenated lecithin,
3. The composition of claim 2, wherein the at least one modified
phospholipid comprises lecithin.
4. The composition of claim 1, wherein the alkyl substituted chain
diol is a 5-carbon alkyl chain substituted diol.
5. The composition of claim 1, comprising an amount of water of 65
to 80% by weight based upon the total weight of the
composition.
6. The composition of claim 1, comprising the at least one pigment
in an amount of about 0.1 to about 10% by weight, based upon the
total weight of the composition.
7. The composition of claim 1, wherein the amount of the at least
one modified phospholipid is up to about 1% by weight based upon
the total weight of the composition; and the amount of the at least
one alkyl substituted diol is up to about 1% by weight based upon
the total weight of the composition.
8. The composition of claim 1, comprising the at least one modified
phospholipid in an amount of about 0.2 to about 0.6% by weight
based upon the total weight of the composition; and the at least
one alkyl substituted diol in an amount of about 0.1 to about 0.3%
by weight based upon the total weight of the composition.
9. The composition of claim 1, comprising the at least one modified
phospholipid in an amount of about 0.2 to about 0.3% by weight
based upon the total weight of the composition; and the at least
one alkyl substituted diol in an amount of about 0.2 to about 0.3%
by weight based upon the total weight of the composition.
10. The composition of claim 1, wherein the weight ratio of the at
least one modified phospholipid to the alkyl diol is about 1:1 to
about 5:1.
11. The composition of claim 1, wherein the weight ratio of the at
least one modified phospholipid to the alkyl diol is about 1:1 to
about 5:2.
12. The composition of claim 1, wherein the at least one pigment is
an untreated pigment.
13. The composition of claim 1, wherein the L*a*b* color space
coordinates are essentially the same when the composition is wet
and when the composition is dry.
14. A cosmetic comprising the composition of claim 1, wherein the
cosmetic is in the form of a liquid, cream, liquid-to-cream, gel,
mousse, or compact.
15. The cosmetic of claim 14, wherein the density of the cosmetic
is about 0.65 to about 1.1 kg/m.sup.3.
16. The cosmetic of claim 14, wherein the viscosity of the cosmetic
is about 25 to about 85 UD.
17. The cosmetic of claim 14, wherein the viscosity of the cosmetic
is about 55 to about 85 UD.
18. The cosmetic of claim 14, wherein the L*a*b* color space
coordinates are essentially the same when the cosmetic is wet and
when the cosmetic is dry.
19. The composition of claim 1, which remains stable for at least 8
weeks at room temperature.
20. The composition of claim 1, further comprising additional
components selected from the group consisting of active compounds,
preservatives, solvents, sun filters, surfactants, vegetables
extracts, and mixtures thereof.
21. A process for the cosmetic treatment of a keratinous substance,
comprising applying the composition of claim 1 to the keratinous
substance.
22. A method of producing the composition of claim 1, comprising:
1) obtaining a mixture of at least one modified phospholipid and at
least one alkyl substituted diol comprising 5 or more carbons in
the alkyl chain; 2) obtaining a mixture of water and at least one
pigment; 3) combining the mixture of the at least one modified
phospholipids and the at least one alkyl substituted diol with the
mixture of the at least one pigment and water; 4) obtaining an oil
composition; and 5) combining the mixture from 3) with the oil
composition of 4) to form an water-in-oil emulsion.
Description
TECHNICAL FIELD
[0001] The present disclosure is concerned with water-in-oil
emulsions that comprise pigments, wherein the pigments are in the
water or inner phase of the emulsion, and a process for fabricating
the emulsions. It has been found according to the present invention
that a combination of a modified phospholipid along with an alkyl
substituted diol having an alkyl chain of at least 5 carbon atoms
makes it possible to essentially maintain pigments including
untreated pigments in the water phase. The present disclosure is
especially concerned with personal care products. The disclosure
further relates to the use of the composition, in particular for
treating, caring for, making up and/or cleaning the skin,
superficial body growths (hair, eyelashes, nails) and/or mucous
membranes. Also, compositions of the present disclosure are
suitable for topical application, and in particular is a cosmetic
and/or dermatological composition.
[0002] Additional advantages and other features of the present
disclosure will be set forth in part in the description that
follows and in part will become apparent to those having ordinary
skill in the art upon examination of the following or may be
learned from the practice of the present disclosure. The advantages
of the present disclosure may be realized and obtained as
particularly pointed out in the appended claims. As will be
realized, the present disclosure is capable of other and different
embodiments, and its several details are capable of modifications
in various obvious respects, all without departing from the present
disclosure. The description is to be regarded as illustrative in
nature, and not as restrictive.
BACKGROUND ART
[0003] Pigments are important for various cosmetic applications,
such as those for the face, eye, lip and nail. For instance, when
used as part of facial foundations, pigments help to cover facial
blemishes or blend uneven colors on the face. When used as part of
facial powders, pigments provide coverage of complexion that is
considered by the user as undesirable. When used as facial blushes,
pigments enhance the cheeks with colors that are trendy or
desirable.
[0004] The dispersion of pigments is an important aspect of
personal care formulations. Pigments are typically delivered in one
of two common types of emulsions: water-in-oil (W/O) emulsions or
oil-in-water (O/W) emulsions in the presence of emulsifiers. The
nature of the emulsifier is an important factor as to what type of
emulsion that may be formed, and thus how the dispersion of the
pigments will occur.
[0005] Regarding the type of emulsion to be formed, the Bancroft
rule state that an emulsifier will promote dispersion of the phase
in which it does not dissolve. Accordingly, when a pigment is
combined with a lipophilic emulsifier (that is, hydrophobic), water
is the dispersed phase while oil is the continuous phase, thus
forming a W/O emulsion. When a pigment is combined with a
lipophobic emulsifier (that is, hydrophilic), oil is the dispersed
phase and water is the continuous phase, thus forming an O/W
emulsion.
[0006] When present in an emulsion, pigments are commonly or
typically included in the outer phase. In the case of water-in-oil
emulsions, the pigments are typically located in the oil phase.
Accordingly, a challenge facing the personal care industry is to
provide an efficient formulation that would maintain pigments and
especially untreated pigments in the water phase of a water-in-oil
emulsion.
SUMMARY OF DISCLOSURE
[0007] The present disclosure addresses problems encountered in the
prior art and provides water-in-oil emulsions whereby pigments
essentially remain in the water phase. According to the present
disclosure, migration of the pigments from the water phase into the
oil phase is prevented or at least significantly avoided.
Water-in-oil emulsions of the present disclosure comprise a
composition comprising A) an oily phase and B) an aqueous phase
that comprises a) water; b) at least one pigment; c) at least about
0.1% by weight based upon the weight of the composition of at least
one modified phospholipid; d) at least about 0.1% by weight based
upon the weight of the composition of at least one alkyl
substituted diol comprising 5 or more carbons in the alkyl chain,
and wherein the pigment essentially remains in the water phase.
[0008] Another aspect of the present disclosure is concerned with a
method of producing the above disclosed composition which
comprises:
[0009] 1) obtaining a mixture of at least one modified phospholipid
and at least one alkyl substituted diol comprising 5 or more
carbons in the alkyl chain;
[0010] 2) obtaining a mixture of water and at least one
pigment;
[0011] 3) combining the mixture of the at least one modified
phospholipid and the at least one alkyl substituted diol with the
mixture of water and the at least one pigment;
[0012] 4) obtaining an oil composition; and
[0013] 5) combining the mixture from 3) with the oil composition of
4) to form a water-in-water emulsion;
[0014] wherein the amount of the at least one modified phospholipid
is at least about 0.1% by weight based upon the weight of the
composition and the amount of the at least one alkyl substituted
diol is at least about 0.1% by weight based upon the weight of the
composition.
[0015] A still further aspect of the present disclosure relates to
a process for the cosmetic treatment of a keratinous substance,
which comprises applying the above disclosed composition to the
keratinous substance.
[0016] As will be realized the disclosure is capable of other and
different embodiments, and its several details are capable of
modifications in various obvious respects, without departing from
the disclosure. Accordingly, the description is to be regarded as
illustrative in nature and not as restrictive.
DESCRIPTION OF BEST AND VARIOUS MODES FOR CARRYING OUT
DISCLOSURE
[0017] The present disclosure is concerned with water-in-oil
emulsions comprising at least one pigment in the water phase.
According to the present disclose, the pigment is dispersed in and
is stabilized in the water phase. In addition, the present
disclosure makes it possible to address the problem whereby the
shade of the composition dramatically changes due to the pigment
not wetting properly. Accordingly, the present disclosure makes it
possible to achieve a substantially consistent shade as the
composition transitions from the wet to dry state. Furthermore, the
present disclosure makes it possible to achieve enhanced color
intensity.
[0018] The compositions of the present disclosure comprise: A) an
oily phase and B) an aqueous phase, wherein the aqueous phase
comprises: a) water, b) at least one pigment, c) at least one
modified phospholipid, and d) at least one alkyl substituted diol
comprising 5 or more carbons in the alkyl chain. The composition is
in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion, and the pigment essentially
remains (e.g. at least about 80% and more typically at least about
90%) in the water phase.
[0019] It has been found according to the present disclosure that
the combination of the modified phospholipid and alkyl substituted
diol comprising 5 or more carbons in the alkyl chain allows for
relatively uniform pigment dispersion in the aqueous phase. The
combination of at least one modified phospholipid and at least one
alkyl substituted diol comprising 5 or more carbons in the alkyl
chain provides adequate hydrophobicity and hydrophilicity that
prevents the pigments from agglomeration in the water phase of the
water-in-oil emulsion. It is believed that the hydrophobic part of
the modified phospholipid will attach to the pigment. Similarly,
the alkyl chain of the diol will also attach to the pigment. At the
same time, the hydrophilic part of the modified phospholipid and
hydroxyl groups of the alkyl substituted diol comprising 5 or more
carbons in the alkyl chain will extend to the water phase of the
water-in-oil emulsion.
[0020] Working together as a combination, the modified phospholipid
and the alkyl substituted diol comprising 5 or more carbons in the
alkyl chain prevent the particles of the pigments from agglomering
with each other, and thus, the separated pigment particles remain
suspended in the water phase of the water-in-oil emulsion. When
either the modified phospholipid or the alkyl substituted diol
comprising 5 or more carbons in the alkyl chain is not included in
the composition, the pigment will not be properly dispersed. It has
been observed that if only the alkyl substituted diol comprising 5
or more carbons in the alkyl chain is used, as shown by Comparison
Example 1, the pigments would not be properly dispersed.
[0021] According to an embodiment of the invention, a modified
phospholipid such as lecithin or hydrogenated lecithin is found to
be particularly useful as the emulsifier for the water-in-oil (W/O)
emulsion for the dispersion of the pigments. Lecithin is a glycerol
molecule which has been derivatized with two fatty acids and one
phosphatidylcholine chain. Often, one of the two fatty acids
contains one double bond. According to an embodiment of the
invention, the hydrogenated lecithin is Lecinol S-10 by Nikkol.
[0022] The amount of modified phospholipid is typically at least
about 0.1%, more typically about 0.2 to about 0.6% by weight and
even more typically about 0.2 to about 0.3% by weight based upon
the total weight of the composition. The maximum amount of modified
phospholipid according to certain embodiments is about 1% by weight
based upon the weight of the composition.
[0023] The alkyl substituted diol employed according to the present
disclosure has 5 or more carbons in the alkyl chain and more
typically has 5 to 7 carbon atoms in the alkyl chain. The diol or
glycol moiety of the alkyl substituted diol is typically ethylene
glycol or propylene glycol with ethylene glycol being the more
typical. Examples of alkyl substituted glycols having at least 5
carbon atoms in the alkyl chain include, but are not limited to:
1,2-heptanediol, 1,2-octanediol and 1,2-nonanediol. According to an
embodiment of the present disclosure, caprylyl glycol (or
1,2-octanediol; Dermosoft.RTM. Octiol from Dr. Straetmans) is a
preferred stabilizer.
[0024] The alkyl substituted diol is typically employed in an
amount of at least about 0.1%, more typically in an amount of about
0.1 to about 0.3% and even more typically about 0.2 to about 0.3%
by weight based upon the total weight of the composition. The
maximum amount of alkyl substituted diol according to certain
embodiments is about 1% by weight based upon the weight of the
composition.
[0025] When the composition contains less than about 0.1% by weight
of the modified phospholipid and less than about 0.1% of the alkyl
substituted diol, the composition does not have satisfactory
viscosity to achieve a stable water-in-oil emulsion as illustrated
in Comparison Example 2.
[0026] The weight ratio of the modified phospholipid to the alkyl
substituted diol is typically about 1:1 to about 5:1 and more
typically about 1:1 to about 5:2.
[0027] The present disclosure is especially useful when the pigment
is an untreated or uncoated pigment. For instance, pigments have
been modified by various treatment processes with various chemical
coatings. If pigments are coated with hydrophobic groups, the
treated pigments would be more hydrophobic and thus would be
dispersed well in the oil phase of an O/W emulsion. If the pigments
are coated with hydrophilic groups would be more hydrophilic and
thus would be dispersed well in the water phase of a W/O emulsion.
As used herein, untreated pigments are those pigments that have not
undergone any coating processes that materially alter their
hydrophobic or hydrophilic character. The average particle size or
average particle diameter of the pigments is typically less than
about 1 .mu.m and more typically greater than about 0.1 .mu.m.
[0028] Examples of some pigments employed according to the present
disclosure are silica, cerium oxide, zirconium oxide, alumina,
calcium carbonate, barium sulphate, calcium sulphate, zinc oxide,
iron oxide and titanium dioxide, the composite particles comprising
them, and their mixtures. Mention may also be made of laponites,
such as, in particular, the products sold by Laporte under the name
Laponite XLS, Laponite XLG, Laponite RD and Laponite RDS (these
products are sodium magnesium silicates and lithium magnesium
sodium silicates). Use may also be made of mixtures of various
kinds of pigments. Mention may also be made of colloidal
silica/alumina composite particles. The term "silica/alumina
composite" is understood to mean silica particles in which aluminum
atoms have been partially substituted for silicon atoms, that is to
say particles composed of silicon oxide, the surface of which has
been modified chemically so as to replace some at least of the
silicon atoms by aluminum atoms, forming at most a monomolecular
layer of aluminum.
[0029] Uncoated or untreated titanium oxide pigments are sold, for
example, by the company Tayca under the trade names Microtitanium
Dioxide MT 500 B or Microtitanium Dioxide MT 600 B, by the company
Degussa under the name P 25, by the company Wackher under the name
Transparent titanium oxide PW, by the company Myoshi Kasei under
the name UFTR, by the company Tomen under the name ITS and by the
company Tioxide under the name Tioveil AQ.
[0030] Uncoated or untreated zinc oxide pigments are, for example:
those sold under the name Z-Cote by the company Sunsmart; those
sold under the name Nanox by the company Elementis; those sold
under the name Nanogard WCD 2025 by the company Nanophase
Technologies.
[0031] Uncoated or untreated cerium oxide pigments are sold under
the name Colloidal Cerium Oxide by the company Rhone-Poulenc.
[0032] Uncoated or untreated iron oxide pigments are sold, for
example, by the company Arnaud under the names Nanogard WCD 2002
(FE 45B), Nanogard Iron FE 45 BL AQ, Nanogard FE 45R AQ and
Nanogard WCD 2006 (FE 45R) or by the company Mitsubishi under the
name TY-220.
[0033] The pigments are typically employed in amounts of about 0.1%
to about 20% and more typically about 1 to about 10% by weight and
more typically about 2 to about 8% by weight based upon the total
weight of the based upon the total weight of the composition.
[0034] The amount of water is typically about 55% to about 80% and
more typically about 65 to about 75% by weight based upon the total
weight of the composition.
[0035] In addition to the water the aqueous phase can also include
as diluent hydrophilic compounds, such as, in particular, polyols
(polyhydric alcohols), such as, for example, glycerol, propylene
glycol, dipropylene glycol and sorbitol, or water-soluble lower
alcohols, such as ethanol, isopropanol or butanol. The amount of
the hydrophilic diluents can be present in an amount up to about
10% and when present more typically in an amount of about 1 to
about 3% by weight based upon the total weight of the
composition.
[0036] The oily phase contains at least one oil, and especially at
least one cosmetic oil. The term "oil" means a fatty substance that
is liquid at room temperature (25.degree. C.).
[0037] As oils that may be used in the composition of the present
disclosure, it is possible to use, for example, hydrocarbon-based
oils of animal origin, such as perhydrosqualene (or squalane);
hydrocarbon-based oils of plant origin, such as caprylic/capric
acid triglycerides, for instance those sold by the company
Stearineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol 810, 812
and 818 by the company Dynamit Nobel, or alternatively oils of
plant origin, for instance sunflower oil, corn oil, soybean oil,
marrow oil, grapeseed oil, sesame seed oil, hazelnut oil, apricot
oil, macadamia oil, arara oil, coriander oil, castor oil, avocado
oil, jojoba oil and shea butter oil; synthetic oils; silicone oils,
for instance volatile or non-volatile polymethylsiloxanes (PDMS)
containing a linear or cyclic silicone chain, which are liquid or
pasty at room temperature; fluoro oils, such as partially
hydrocarbon-based and/or silicone-based fluoro oils, for instance
those described in document JP-A-2 295 912; ethers, such as
dicaprylyl ether (CTFA name: Dicaprylyl ether); esters, for
instance C.sub.12-C.sub.15 fatty alkyl benzoates (Finsolv TN from
Finetex); arylalkyl benzoates, for instance 2-phenylethyl benzoate
(X-Tend 226 from ISP); and amidated oils, for instance isopropyl
N-lauroylsarcosinate (Eldew SL-205 from Ajimoto); mixtures
thereof.
[0038] The oily phase may also comprise one or more fatty
substances chosen, for example, from fatty alcohols (cetyl alcohol,
stearyl alcohol or cetearyl alcohol), fatty acids (stearic acid) or
waxes (paraffin, polyethylene wax, carnauba wax or beeswax). The
oily phase may contain lipophilic gelling agents, surfactants or
organic or mineral particles.
[0039] The amount of oily phase can range, for example, from about
3 to 15% by weight with respect to the total weight of the
composition, and more typically about 5 to about 10% by weight,
with respect to the total weight of the composition.
[0040] The compositions in accordance with the present invention
may also comprise standard cosmetic adjuvants chosen especially
from fatty substances, organic solvents other than water-miscible
volatile organic solvents, ionic or nonionic, hydrophilic or
lipophilic thickeners, softeners, humectants, opacifiers,
stabilizers, emollients, silicones, antifoams, fragrances,
preserving agents, anionic, cationic, nonionic, zwitterionic or
amphoteric surfactants, active agents, fillers, polymers,
propellants, acidifying or basifying agents or any other ingredient
usually used in cosmetics and/or dermatology.
[0041] Hydrophilic thickeners that may be mentioned include
carboxyvinyl polymers such as the Carbopol products (carbomers) and
the Pemulen products (acrylate/C.sub.10-C.sub.30-alkylacrylate
copolymer); the methacrylic acid/methyl acrylate/ethoxylated alkyl
dimethyl-meta-isopropenyl benzyl isocyanate terpolymer (INCI name:
Polyacrylate-3), for instance the product sold by Amerchol under
the name Viscophobe DB 1000; polyacrylamides, for instance the
crosslinked copolymers sold under the names Sepigel 305 (CTFA name:
polyacrylamide/C13-14 isoparaffin/Laureth 7) or Simulgel 600 (CTFA
name: acrylamide/sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate
copolymer/isohexadecane/polysorbate 80) by the company Seppic;
2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid polymers and copolymers,
which are optionally crosslinked and/or neutralized, for instance
the poly(2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid) sold by the
company Clariant under the trade name Hostacerin AMPS (CTFA name:
ammonium polyacryloyldimethyltauramide); cellulose derivatives such
as hydroxyethylcellulose; polysaccharides and especially gums such
as xanthan gum; and mixtures thereof.
[0042] Lipophilic thickeners that may be mentioned include
synthetic polymers such as poly (C.sub.10-C.sub.30 alkyl acrylates)
sold under the name Doresco IPA 13-1 by the company Landec, or
modified clays such as hectorite and its derivatives, for instance
the products sold under the name Bentone.
[0043] Preserving agents that may be mentioned include
parahydroxybenzoic acid esters, also known as Parabens.TM. (in
particular methyl paraben, ethyl paraben and propyl paraben),
phenoxyethanol, formaldehyde generators, for instance
imidazolidinylurea or diazolidinylurea, chlorhexidine digluconate,
sodium benzoate, iodopropynyl butyl carbamate,
alkyltrimethylammonium bromides such as myristyltrimethylammonium
bromide (CTFA name: myrtrimonium bromide), dodecyltrimethylammonium
bromide, hexadecyltrimethylammonium bromide, and mixtures thereof
such as the mixture sold under the name Cetrimide.TM. by the
company FEF Chemicals. The preserving agent may be present in the
composition according to the invention in a content ranging from
0.001% to 10% by weight, especially ranging from 0.1% to 5% by
weight and in particular ranging from 0.2% to 3% by weight relative
to the total weight of the composition.
[0044] Emulsions according to the present disclosure can be in the
form of a liquid, cream, liquid-to-cream, gel, mousse, or compact.
Embodiments of the present disclosure exhibit a substantially
consistent shade as the composition transitions from the wet to dry
state. In other words, the L*a*b* color space coordinates are
essentially the same when the composition is wet and when the
composition is dry. In embodiments of the present disclosure, the
density is about 0.65 to about 1.1 kg/m.sup.3 and/or the initial
viscosity is about 25 to about 85 UD and preferably about 55 to
about 85 UD. The viscosity is measured using a Rheomat R 180
viscometer.
[0045] Needless to say, a person skilled in the art will take care
to select the optional additional compound(s) mentioned above
and/or the amounts thereof such that the advantageous properties
intrinsically associated with the compositions in accordance with
the invention are not, or are not substantially, adversely affected
by the envisaged addition(s).
[0046] The emulsions of the present disclosure can be prepared by a
method which comprises:
[0047] 1) obtaining a mixture of at least one modified phospholipid
and at least one alkyl substituted diol comprising 5 or more
carbons in the alkyl chain;
[0048] 2) obtaining a mixture of water and at least one
pigment;
[0049] 3) combining the mixture of the at least one modified
phospholipid and the at least one alkyl substituted diol with the
mixture of water and the at least one pigment;
[0050] 4) obtaining an oil composition; and
[0051] 5) combining the mixture from 3) with the oil composition of
4) to form a water-in-oil emulsion.
[0052] The invention will now be described with reference to the
examples that follow, which are given as non-limiting
illustrations. In these examples, unless otherwise indicated, the
amounts are expressed as weight percentages. The following
formulations were prepared; the amounts are indicated as weight
percentages. The T0M is the initial viscosity reading of the
Rheomat taken at time 0 minutes and the T10M is the viscosity
reading of the Rheomat taken at time 10 minutes. A sample is placed
under the RheomatR 180 with a Spindle #3 in order to take a
measurement (measured in deviated units referred to as UD). L*a*b*
color space was measured using a Konica Minolta CR-400 Colorimeter.
The instrument settings were: reflectance measurement, 2 degree
observer, and C illuminant). Samples of an embodiment of the
present invention were measured in both the wet state and as a
dried film. The dried film was allowed to dry for 24 hours before
measurement. Twelve measurements were taken per sample and averaged
together. The significance level was set at p value <0.05. For
the L*a*b* system, "L" is an indicator of lightness of the color
black (when L*=0) or white (when L*=100). The value "a*" is an
indicator of how red (+a*) or green (-a*) the color is. The value
"b*" is an indicator of how yellow (+b*) or blue (-b*) the color
is.
EXAMPLE 1
[0053] A composition containing about 1.54% by weight of untreated
iron oxide and about 2.46% by weight of titanium oxide pigments
suspended in the water phase of a water-in-oil emulsion is
prepared. The composition has a water content from about 70.4% by
weight. The composition comprises about 0.35% by weight of
hydrogenated lecithin, and about 0.2% by weight of caprylyl glycol.
The composition further contains about 0.2% by weight of disodium
ethylene diamine tetraacetic acid (EDTA) active compound; about
0.25% by weight of pentaerthrityl tetra-di-tert butyl
hydroxyhydrocinnamate active compound; about 0.15% by weight of
citric acid active compound; about 8% by weight of ethylhexyl
palmitate; about 1.55% by weight of sodium acrylate/sodium
acrylolyldimethyl taurate copolymer, isohexadecane and polysorbate
80; about 0.3% by weight of hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium
acrylolyldimethyl taurate copolymer; about 0.25% by weight of
sodium hydroacetate (preservative); about 0.1% by weight of
potassium sorbate (preservative; about 0.7% by weight of
phenoxyethanol (preservative); about 0.1% by weight of
methylthiazolinone (preservative); about 7% by weight of glycerine
(auxiliary hydrophilic solvent); about 1% by weight of pentylene
glycol (auxiliary hydrophilic solvent); about 2% by weight of
silica and titanium dioxide (sun filter); about 0.25% by weight of
PEG-30 dihydroxystearate (surfactant); 3% by weight of
octyldodecanol and octyldodecyl xyloside(surfactant); about 0.1% by
weight of propylene glycol and chamomilla recutita (matricaria
flower extract) and about 0.1% by weight of propylene glycol and
aloe barbadensis leaf extract. The emulsion is a smooth and even
product and is classified as a Western BB cream suitable as a
foundation for facial makeup. The initial T0M is 54.6 and T10M is
59.7. The emulsion was completely stable even after 8 weeks. The
following results were observed:
[0054] 25.degree. C. viscosity: T0M 4 weeks: 31.4
[0055] T10M 4 weeks: 34.65
[0056] 40.degree. C. viscosity: T0M 4 weeks: 31.2
[0057] T0M 4 weeks: 28.3.
[0058] The L* is 58.37, a* is 13.43, b* is 22.01, C* is 25.79 and
h* is 58.61.
EXAMPLE 2
[0059] A composition containing about 1.54% by weight of untreated
iron oxide and about 2.46% by weight of titanium oxide pigments
suspended in the water phase of a water-in-oil emulsion is
prepared. The composition has a water content from about 68.45% by
weight. The composition comprises about 1.5% by weight of
hydrogenated lecithin, and about 1% by weight of caprylyl glycol.
The composition further contains about 0.2% by weight of disodium
ethylene diamine tetraacetic acid (EDTA) active compound; about
0.25% by weight of pentaerthrityl tetra-di-tert butyl
hydroxyhydrocinnamate active compound; about 0.15% by weight of
citric acid active compound; about 8% by weight of ethylhexyl
palmitate; about 1.55% by weight of sodium acrylate/sodium
acrylolyldimethyl taurate copolymer, isohexadecane and polysorbate
80; about 0.3% by weight of hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium
acrylolyldimethyl taurate copolymer; about 0.25% by weight of
sodium hydroacetate (preservative); about 0.1% by weight of
potassium sorbate (preservative; about 0.7% by weight of
phenoxyethanol (preservative); about 0.1% by weight of
methylthiazolinone (preservative); about 7% by weight of glycerine
(auxiliary hydrophilic solvent); about 1% by weight of pentylene
glycol (auxiliary hydrophilic solvent); about 2% by weight of
silica and titanium dioxide (sun filter); about 0.25% by weight of
PEG-30 dihydroxystearate (surfactant); 3% by weight of
octyldodecanol and octyldodecyl xyloside(surfactant); about 0.1% by
weight of propylene glycol and chamomilla recutita (matricaria
flower extract) and about 0.1% by weight of propylene glycol and
aloe barbadensis leaf extract.
[0060] The emulsion is a smooth and even product and is classified
as a Western BB cream suitable as a foundation for facial makeup.
Some separation was noted after one week. Accordingly, the higher
amounts of lecithin are not as preferred as the lower amounts of up
to about 1% by weight based upon the weight of the composition of.
The initial T0M is 39.1 and T10M is 33.7. The emulsion was stable
even after 4 weeks. The following results were observed:
[0061] 25.degree. C. viscosity: T0M 24 hours: 30.3
[0062] T10M hours: 33.7
[0063] The L* is 60.02, a* is 12.89, b* is 21.6, C* is 25.25.16 and
h* is 59.17.
EXAMPLE 3
[0064] A composition containing about 1.54% by weight of untreated
iron oxide pigments and about 2.46% by weight of titanium oxide
pigments treated with stearoyl glutamate aluminum hydroxide
suspended in the water phase of a water-in-oil emulsion is
prepared. The composition has a water content from about 70.4% by
weight. The composition comprises about 0.35% by weight of
hydrogenated lecithin, and about 0.2% by weight of caprylyl glycol.
The composition further contains about 0.2% by weight of disodium
ethylene diamine tetraacetic acid (EDTA) (active compound); about
0.25% by weight of pentaerthrityl tetra-di-tert butyl
hydroxyhydrocinnamate (active compound); about 0.15% by weight of
citric acid (active compound); about 8% by weight of ethylhexyl
palmitate; about 1.55% by weight of sodium acrylate/sodium
acrylolyldimethyl taurate copolymer, isohexadecane and polysorbate
80; about 0.3% by weight of hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium
acrylolyldimethyl taurate copolymer; about 0.25% by weight of
sodium hydroacetate (preservative); about 0.1% by weight of
potassium sorbate (preservative; about 0.7% by weight of
phenoxyethanol (preservative); about 0.1% by weight of
methylthiazolinone (preservative); about 7% by weight of glycerin
(auxiliary hydrophilic solvent); about 1% by weight of pentylene
glycol (auxiliary hydrophilic solvent); about 2% by weight of
silica and titanium dioxide (sun filter); about 0.25% by weight of
PEG-30 dihydroxystearate (surfactant); 3% by weight of
octyldodecanol and octyldodecyl xyloside(surfactant); about 0.1% by
weight of propylene glycol and chamomilla recutita (matricaria
flower extract) and about 0.1% by weight of propylene glycol and
aloe barbadensis leaf extract.
[0065] The emulsion is a smooth and even product and is classified
as a Western BB cream suitable as a foundation for facial makeup.
There was slight separation at week 8 at about 45.degree. C. and
50.degree. C. The initial T0M is 61.1. The emulsion was stable even
after 7 weeks. The following results were observed:
[0066] 25.degree. C. viscosity: T0M 24 hours: 43.1
[0067] T10M 24 hours 48.6
[0068] The L* is 59.56, a* is 14.74, b* is 22.1, C* is 26.56 and h*
is 56.3.
EXAMPLE 4
[0069] A composition containing about 1.54% by weight of untreated
iron oxide and about 2.46% by weight of titanium oxide pigments
suspended in the water phase of a water-in-oil emulsion is
prepared. The composition has a water content from about 68.45% by
weight. The composition comprises about 1.5% by weight of
hydrogenated lecithin, and about 0.2% by weight of caprylyl glycol.
The composition further contains about 0.2% by weight of disodium
ethylene diamine tetraacetic acid (EDTA) active compound; about
0.25% by weight of pentaerthrityl tetra-di-tert butyl
hydroxyhydrocinnamate active compound; about 0.15% by weight of
citric acid active compound; about 8% by weight of ethylhexyl
palmitate; about 1.55% by weight of sodium acrylate/sodium
acrylolyldimethyl taurate copolymer, isohexadecane and polysorbate
80; about 0.3% by weight of hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium
acrylolyldimethyl taurate copolymer; about 0.25% by weight of
sodium hydroacetate (preservative); about 0.1% by weight of
potassium sorbate (preservative; about 0.7% by weight of
phenoxyethanol (preservative); about 0.1% by weight of
methylthiazolinone (preservative); about 7% by weight of glycerine
(auxiliary hydrophilic solvent); about 1% by weight of pentylene
glycol (auxiliary hydrophilic solvent); about 2% by weight of
silica and titanium dioxide (sun filter); about 0.25% by weight of
PEG-30 dihydroxystearate (surfactant); 3% by weight of
octyldodecanol and octyldodecyl xyloside(surfactant); about 0.1% by
weight of propylene glycol and chamomilla recutita (matricaria
flower extract) and about 0.1% by weight of propylene glycol and
aloe barbadensis leaf extract.
COMPARISON EXAMPLE 1
Water-in-Oil Emulsion with 1,2-Octanediol but without Hydrogenated
Lecithin
[0070] A composition containing about 1.54% by weight of untreated
iron oxide and about 2.46% by weight of titanium oxide pigments
suspended in the water phase of a water-in-oil emulsion is
prepared. The composition has a water content from about 70.75% by
weight. The composition comprises about 0.2% by weight of caprylyl
glycol. The composition further contains about 0.2% by weight of
disodium ethylene diamine tetraacetic acid (EDTA) active compound;
about 0.25% by weight of pentaerthrityl tetra-di-tert butyl
hydroxyhydrocinnamate active compound; about 0.15% by weight of
citric acid active compound; about 8% by weight of ethylhexyl
palmitate; about 1.55% by weight of sodium acrylate/sodium
acrylolyldimethyl taurate copolymer, isohexadecane and polysorbate
80; about 0.3% by weight of hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium
acrylolyldimethyl taurate copolymer; about 0.25% by weight of
sodium hydroacetate (preservative); about 0.1% by weight of
potassium sorbate (preservative; about 0.7% by weight of
phenoxyethanol (preservative); about 0.1% by weight of
methylthiazolinone (preservative); about 7% by weight of glycerine
(auxiliary hydrophilic solvent); about 1% by weight of pentylene
glycol (auxiliary hydrophilic solvent); about 2% by weight of
silica and titanium dioxide (sun filter); about 0.25% by weight of
PEG-30 dihydroxystearate (surfactant); 3% by weight of
octyldodecanol and octyldodecyl xyloside(surfactant); about 0.1% by
weight of propylene glycol and chamomilla recutita (matricaria
flower extract) and about 0.1% by weight of propylene glycol and
aloe barbadensis leaf extract.
[0071] The composition never looked homogenous and separated. It
ran down the spatula when batching.
COMPARISON EXAMPLE 2
Water-in-Oil Emulsion with 0.05% of 1,2-Octanediol and 0.05% of
Hydrogenated Lecithin
[0072] A composition containing about 1.54% by weight of untreated
iron oxide and about 2.46% by weight of titanium oxide pigments
suspended in the water phase of a water-in-oil emulsion is
prepared. The composition has a water content from about 70.85% by
weight. The composition comprises about 0.05% by weight of
hydrogenated lecithin, and about 0.05% by weight of caprylyl
glycol. The composition further contains about 0.2% by weight of
disodium ethylene diamine tetraacetic acid (EDTA) active compound;
about 0.25% by weight of pentaerthrityl tetra-di-tert butyl
hydroxyhydrocinnamate active compound; about 0.15% by weight of
citric acid active compound; about 8% by weight of ethylhexyl
palmitate; about 1.55% by weight of sodium acrylate/sodium
acrylolyldimethyl taurate copolymer, isohexadecane and polysorbate
80; about 0.3% by weight of hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium
acrylolyldimethyl taurate copolymer; about 0.25% by weight of
sodium hydroacetate (preservative); about 0.1% by weight of
potassium sorbate (preservative; about 0.7% by weight of
phenoxyethanol (preservative); about 0.1% by weight of
methylthiazolinone (preservative); about 7% by weight of glycerine
(auxiliary hydrophilic solvent); about 1% by weight of pentylene
glycol (auxiliary hydrophilic solvent); about 2% by weight of
silica and titanium dioxide (sun filter); about 0.25% by weight of
PEG-30 dihydroxystearate (surfactant); 3% by weight of
octyldodecanol and octyldodecyl xyloside(surfactant); about 0.1% by
weight of propylene glycol and chamomilla recutita (matricaria
flower extract) and about 0.1% by weight of propylene glycol and
aloe barbadensis leaf extract.
[0073] The following results were observed:
[0074] Initial viscosity T0M: 21.3; T10M.: 20.7
[0075] 25.degree. C. viscosity: T0M 24 hours: 22 T10:20.1
[0076] The composition lacked adequate viscosity and separated
after one week at room temperature.
[0077] Exemplary embodiments of the present disclosure include:
[0078] Embodiment 1: A composition comprising:
[0079] A) an oily phase and
[0080] B) an aqueous phase which comprises: [0081] a) water, [0082]
b) at least one pigment, [0083] c) at least about 0.1% by weight
based upon the weight of the composition of at least one modified
phospholipid, and [0084] d) at least about 0.1% by weight based
upon the weight of the composition of at least one alkyl
substituted chain diol comprising 5 or more carbons;
[0085] wherein the composition is in the form of an water-in-oil
emulsion, and
[0086] wherein the at least one pigment essentially remains in the
water phase. [0087] Embodiment 2. The composition of Embodiment 1,
wherein the at least one modified phospholipid is at least one
member selected from the group consisting of lecithin and
hydrogenated lecithin, [0088] Embodiment 3. The composition of
Embodiment 2, wherein the at least one modified phospholipid
comprises lecithin. [0089] Embodiment 4. The composition according
to any one of Embodiments 1 to 3, wherein the alkyl substituted
chain diol is a 5-carbon alkyl chain substituted diol. [0090]
Embodiment 5. The composition according to any one of Embodiments 1
to 4, comprising an amount of water of 65 to 80% by weight based
upon the total weight of the composition. [0091] Embodiment 6. The
composition according to any one of Embodiments 1 to 5, comprising
the at least one pigment in an amount of about 0.1 to about 10% by
weight, based upon the total weight of the composition. [0092]
Embodiment 7. The composition according to any one of Embodiments 1
to 6, wherein the amount of the at least one modified phospholipid
is up to about 1% by weight based upon the total weight of the
composition; and the amount of the at least one alkyl substituted
diol is up to about 1% by weight based upon the total weight of the
composition. [0093] Embodiment 8. The composition according to any
one of Embodiments 1 to 7, comprising the at least one modified
phospholipid in an amount of about 0.2 to about 0.6% by weight
based upon the total weight of the composition; and the at least
one alkyl substituted diol in an amount of about 0.1 to about 0.3%
by weight based upon the total weight of the composition. [0094]
Embodiment 9. The composition according to any one of Embodiments 1
to 8, comprising the at least one modified phospholipid in an
amount of about 0.2 to about 0.3% by weight based upon the total
weight of the composition; and the at least one alkyl substituted
diol in an amount of about 0.2 to about 0.3% by weight based upon
the total weight of the composition. [0095] Embodiment 10. The
composition according to any one of Embodiments 1 to 9, wherein the
weight ratio of the at least one modified phospholipid to the alkyl
diol is about 1:1 to about 5:1. [0096] Embodiment 11. The
composition according to any one of Embodiments 1 to 10, wherein
the weight ratio of the at least one modified phospholipid to the
alkyl diol is about 1:1 to about 5:2. [0097] Embodiment 12. The
composition of according to any one of Embodiments 1 to 11, wherein
the at least one pigment is an untreated pigment. [0098] Embodiment
13. The composition according to any one of Embodiments 1 to 12,
wherein the L*a*b* color space coordinates are essentially the same
when the composition is wet and when the composition is dry. [0099]
Embodiment 14. A cosmetic comprising the composition according to
any one of Embodiments 1 to 13, wherein the cosmetic is in the form
of a liquid, cream, liquid-to-cream, gel, mousse, or compact.
[0100] Embodiment 15. The cosmetic according to any one of
Embodiments 1 to 14, wherein the density of the cosmetic is about
0.65 to about 1.1 kg/m.sup.3. [0101] Embodiment 16. The cosmetic
according to any one of Embodiments 1 to 15, wherein the viscosity
of the cosmetic is about 25 to about 85 UD. [0102] Embodiment 17.
The cosmetic according to any one of Embodiments 1 to 15, wherein
the viscosity of the cosmetic is about 55 to about 85 UD. [0103]
Embodiment 18. The cosmetic according to any one of Embodiments 1
to 17, wherein the L*a*b* color space coordinates are essentially
the same when the cosmetic is wet and when the cosmetic is dry.
[0104] Embodiment 19. The composition according to any one of
Embodiments 1 to 18, which remains stable for at least 8 weeks at
room temperature. [0105] Embodiment 20. The composition according
to any one of Embodiments 1 to 19, further comprising additional
components selected from the group consisting of active compounds,
preservatives, solvents, sun filters, surfactants, vegetables
extracts, and mixtures thereof [0106] Embodiment 21. A process for
the cosmetic treatment of a keratinous substance, comprising
applying the composition according to any one of Embodiments 1 to
20 to the keratinous substance. [0107] Embodiment 22. A method of
producing the composition according to any one of Embodiments 1 to
20, comprising:
[0108] 1) obtaining a mixture of at least one modified phospholipid
and at least one alkyl substituted diol comprising 5 or more
carbons in the alkyl chain;
[0109] 2) obtaining a mixture of water and at least one
pigment;
[0110] 3) combining the mixture of the at least one modified
phospholipids and the at least one alkyl substituted diol with the
mixture of the at least one pigment and water;
[0111] 4) obtaining an oil composition; and
[0112] 5) combining the mixture from 3) with the oil composition of
4) to form an water-in-oil emulsion.
[0113] The term "comprising" (and its grammatical variations) as
used herein is used in the inclusive sense of "having" or
"including" and not in the exclusive sense of "consisting only of"
The terms "a" and "the" as used herein are understood to encompass
the plural as well as the singular.
[0114] The term "at least one", as used herein, means one or more,
and thus the term includes individual components as well as
mixtures or combinations.
[0115] The composition and methods of the present invention can
comprise, consist of, or consist essentially of the essential
elements and limitations of the invention described herein, as well
as any additional or optional ingredients, components, or
limitations described herein or otherwise useful ingredients found
in cosmetic compositions.
[0116] All publications, patents and patent applications cited in
this specification are herein incorporated by reference, and for
any and all purpose, as if each individual publication, patent or
patent application were specifically and individually indicated to
be incorporated by reference. In the case of inconsistencies, the
present disclosure will prevail.
[0117] The foregoing description of the disclosure illustrates and
describes the present disclosure. Additionally, the disclosure
shows and describes only the preferred embodiments but, as
mentioned above, it is to be understood that the disclosure is
capable of use in various other combinations, modifications, and
environments and is capable of changes or modifications within the
scope of the concept as expressed herein, commensurate with the
above teachings and/or the skill or knowledge of the relevant
art.
[0118] The embodiments described hereinabove are further intended
to explain best modes known of practicing it and to enable others
skilled in the art to utilize the disclosure in such, or other,
embodiments and with the various modifications required by the
particular applications or uses. Accordingly, the description is
not intended to limit it to the form disclosed herein. Also, it is
intended that the appended claims be construed to include
alternative embodiments.
* * * * *