U.S. patent application number 13/983360 was filed with the patent office on 2013-11-21 for enhanced hair straightening system.
The applicant listed for this patent is Ali N. Syed. Invention is credited to Ali N. Syed.
Application Number | 20130306095 13/983360 |
Document ID | / |
Family ID | 46603025 |
Filed Date | 2013-11-21 |
United States Patent
Application |
20130306095 |
Kind Code |
A1 |
Syed; Ali N. |
November 21, 2013 |
ENHANCED HAIR STRAIGHTENING SYSTEM
Abstract
The present enhanced hair straightening system is directed to
enhancing the removal of natural curl from hair having a visibly
wavy to tight curly configuration using methods and compositions
that provide straightened hair which retains desirable sensory
tactile properties and hair sheen. The present invention is
particularly suited to straightening hair having a curl
configuration classified as resistant to conventional hair
straightening.
Inventors: |
Syed; Ali N.; (Oak Brook,
IL) |
|
Applicant: |
Name |
City |
State |
Country |
Type |
Syed; Ali N. |
Oak Brook |
IL |
US |
|
|
Family ID: |
46603025 |
Appl. No.: |
13/983360 |
Filed: |
February 4, 2011 |
PCT Filed: |
February 4, 2011 |
PCT NO: |
PCT/US11/23743 |
371 Date: |
August 2, 2013 |
Current U.S.
Class: |
132/204 ;
132/286 |
Current CPC
Class: |
A61K 2800/884 20130101;
A45D 7/06 20130101; A61K 8/365 20130101; A61Q 5/04 20130101; A61K
8/447 20130101; A61K 2800/805 20130101 |
Class at
Publication: |
132/204 ;
132/286 |
International
Class: |
A45D 7/06 20060101
A45D007/06 |
Claims
1. (canceled)
2. The method of claim 15 wherein the alkaline composition
comprises a sufficient amount of chemical base to maintain a pH of
at least 9.5 during step (a).
3. The method of claim 15, wherein the chemical base in the
alkaline composition comprises at least one compound selected from
the group consisting of an alkali metal hydroxide, an alkaline
earth metal hydroxide, an organic amine, and alkaline salts
thereof.
4. The method of claim 3, wherein the chemical base in the alkaline
composition comprises at least one alkali metal hydroxide selected
from the group consisting of sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide,
and lithium hydroxide.
5. The method of claim 3, wherein the chemical base in the alkaline
composition comprises calcium hydroxide.
6. The method of claim 15, wherein the chemical base in the
alkaline composition comprises at least one organic amine selected
from the group consisting of guanidine, guanidine hydroxide, and a
C.sub.1-C.sub.6 alkanolamine.
7. The method of claim 3, wherein the chemical base in the alkaline
composition comprises at least one salt selected from the group
consisting of guanidine carbonate, sodium carbonate, and sodium
phosphate.
8. The method of claim 15, wherein the acidic composition comprises
at least one glyoxylic amide selected from the group consisting of
N-glyoxylcarbocysteine, N-glyoxylderivatives of keratin amino acids
and mixtures thereof.
9. The method of claim 17, wherein the oxidizing agent in the hair
conditioning composition in step (i), when present, is selected
from the group consisting of hydrogen peroxide and sodium
bromate.
10-14. (canceled)
15. A method of enhancing the removal of the natural curl from hair
having a visibly wavy to tight curly configuration, the method
comprising the steps of: (a) contacting naturally wavy, curly hair
with an alkaline composition comprising a sufficient amount of
chemical base to provide alkalinity in the range of at least pH 8.5
to about pH 14 for a period sufficient to partially straighten the
original configuration of the hair; (b) optionally washing the
partially straightened hair; (c) drying the partially straightened
hair to a substantially dry state, optionally with a hair
conditioning composition on the hair; (d) contacting the so-dried,
partially straightened hair with an acidic composition having an
acidity of less than about pH 2.5, the acidic composition
comprising at least one compound selected from the group consisting
of glyoxylic acid, a glyoxylic amide, and a mixture thereof, in a
cosmetically acceptable vehicle and present in an amount sufficient
to further straighten the configuration of the hair; (e) optionally
heating the hair in step (d) for a period of up to about 30
minutes; (f) optionally washing the further straightened hair; (g)
drying the further straightened hair to a substantially dried
state; and (h) pressing the substantially dried straightened hair
with a heated iron.
16. The method of claim 15, wherein the hair is covered with a cap
during step (e), the cap being removed before steps (f) and
(g).
17. The method of claim 15, further including the steps of: (i)
washing the pressed, straightened hair with water after step (h),
and optionally contacting the washed hair with a hair conditioning
composition comprising an oxidizing agent, and optionally, washing
the conditioned hair with water; (j) blow drying the hair after
step (i) optionally with a thermal protectant composition present
on the hair; and (k) pressing the blow-dried hair with a heated
iron, optionally with a hair conditioning composition on the
hair.
18. The method of claim 17, wherein the chemical base in the
alkaline composition comprises at least one compound selected from
the group consisting of an alkali metal hydroxide, an alkaline
earth metal hydroxide, an organic amine, and alkaline salts
thereof.
19. The method of claim 17, wherein the chemical base in the
alkaline composition comprises at least one alkali metal hydroxide
selected from the group consisting of sodium hydroxide, potassium
hydroxide, and lithium hydroxide.
20. The method of claim 17, wherein the chemical base in the
alkaline composition comprises calcium hydroxide.
21. The method of claim 17, wherein the chemical base in the
alkaline composition comprises at least one organic amine selected
from the group consisting of guanidine, guanidine hydroxide, and a
C.sub.1-C.sub.6 alkanolamine.
22. The method of claim 17, wherein the chemical base in the
alkaline composition comprises at least one salt selected from the
group consisting of guanidine carbonate, sodium carbonate, and
sodium phosphate.
23. The method of claim 17, wherein the acidic composition
comprises at least one glyoxylic amide selected from the group
consisting of N-glyoxylcarbocysteine, N-glyoxylderivatives of
keratin amino acids and mixtures thereof.
24. The method of claim 15 wherein the chemical base in the
alkaline composition comprises calcium hydroxide, guanidine
carbonate, and a mixture thereof.
25. The method of claim 15, wherein the alkaline composition
comprises guanidine hydroxide and the acidic composition comprises
N-glyoxylcarbocysteine, N-glyoxylderivatives of keratin amino
acids, and a mixture thereof.
26. An article of manufacture in the form of a kit containing the
following components for practicing the method of claim 15, each in
separately packaged form: an alkaline composition comprising at
least one chemical base selected from the group consisting of an
alkali metal hydroxide, an alkaline earth metal hydroxide, an
organic amine, and alkaline salts thereof in an amount sufficient
to provide alkalinity in the range of at least pH 8.5 to about pH
14; an acidic composition having an acidity of less than about pH
2.5, the acidic composition comprising at least one compound
selected from the group consisting of glyoxylic acid, a glyoxylic
amide, and a mixture thereof, in a cosmetically acceptable vehicle;
and optionally a hair conditioning composition; instructional
indicia on how to use the components during the method for
enhancing the removal of the natural curl from hair having a
visibly wavy to tight curly configuration; and optionally, one or
more hair straightening implements.
Description
FIELD OF THE INVENTION
[0001] This invention relates to removal of the natural curl of
hair, and in particular to a hair straightening system, method, and
compositions for enhancing the removal of all of the natural curl
of hair with minimal loss of desirable hair aesthetics.
BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION
[0002] There is a growing desire and demand globally by persons of
ethnic persuasions, other than African descent, who have naturally
curly hair ranging from a wavy to tightly curled configuration, for
products that can remove substantially all of the natural curl from
the hair. In an attempt to describe the visual natural curl
configuration of hair, regardless of the ethnicity of the person,
one classification system was developed by Andre Walker, a well
known hair stylist to celebrities, which has been generally adopted
and modified by the trade.
[0003] Briefly described, Walker classified Type 1 hair as straight
hair (no curl); Type 2 hair as wavy hair (somewhat "S"-shaped,
curls); Type 3 hair as being curly (well defined loopy, "S"-shaped
wave pattern); and Type 4 hair as kinky, or very tightly curled.
Walker also further described sub-types of hair (A, B, C) based
upon hair thickness (diameter) from fine, medium, and coarse
(super). The Walker classification system for sub-type categories
is a subjective system. The trade has further modified this
classification system into what is now referred to as a "Global
Hair Texture Charting System" and, for convenience, and not by way
of limitation, reference will be made herein to the global hair
type descriptions.
[0004] It is well known that Type 3 and Type 4 hair is very
difficult to comb and style. Typically, Type 3 and Type 4 hair has
a bulky volume, especially under humid conditions, so maintaining a
desirable hair style daily is very difficult. There is an ongoing
need for products that can permanently remove substantially all of
the natural curl from Type 2-Type 4 hair with minimal loss of
desirable hair aesthetics, such as soft tactile feel and visible
sheen.
[0005] The art of removing the natural curl from naturally curly
hair was practiced, in the early days, by applying a pomade to the
hair and then straightening the curl by combing the pomade-coated
hair, under tension, using a heated metal comb, a process commonly
referred to as "pressing." Although pressing left the hair shiny,
silky, the process was cumbersome, and the straightening effect was
only temporary. The pomades were cosmetically unaesthetic greases
and difficult to remove from the hair. Additionally, the metal
combs were heated, either electrically or on a stove, to relatively
high temperatures, which posed the risk of burning the unprotected
skin and scalp or of singeing the hair. More recently, some
progress was made using a hair ironing process employing oily
lotions and electrical variable heating devices, known as flat hair
irons, and hair irons, some of which are combination hair
straightener and curling irons, that can be controllably heated.
However, the hair straightening effect is temporary and the curls
configuration of hair that is has been temporarily straightened by
these procedures reverts to its natural curly or wavy configuration
readily on exposure to humidity, or perspiration, and especially
upon washing the hair.
[0006] Conventional chemical relaxers (hair straighteners) that are
formulated to remove substantially all natural curl from the hair
are well known in the art and typically contain inorganic or
organic bases that form stable, irreversible crosslinks of
primarily lanthionine by the action of hydroxide ion. These
lanthionizing chemical relaxers generally are strongly alkaline,
typically in the range of about pH 12 to about pH 14 and, and
typically produce a straight textural configuration that is
substantially permanent (i.e., irreversible). It is well known that
Type 4 hair is receptive to being successfully straightened with
these types of products, whereas Type 2 and Type 3 hair is very
resistant.
[0007] In some cases, some waves reappear (reversion) in Type 2 and
Type 3 hair straightened with lanthionizing chemical relaxers as
quickly as the day f the straightening procedure. Customers with
Type 3 hair can successfully minimize the overall bulk volume of
the curl configuration sufficiently with lanthionizing chemical
relaxers, but this type of hair is very resistant to being
completely straightened. For effectively removing all the natural
curl, the lanthionizing chemical relaxer must be left on the hair
for long periods, such as 30 to 45 minutes, which results in
unacceptable levels of undesirable hair damage.
[0008] An alternative to lanthionization relaxers is a chemical
reduction-oxidation relaxer process. Conventional commercial
reduction-oxidation processes typically reduce the disulfide bonds
in the hair with thiol salts, usually ammonium thioglycolate in a
viscous medium at an alkalinity typically in the range of about 9
to about 9.5. The reduced hair is mechanically straightened with
combing, and then oxidized with hydrogen peroxide or sodium bromate
to restore the disulfide bonds in the new straightened
configuration. The straightening effect lasts through about three
to four shampooings, but generally provides a less permanent
straightening effect than that achieved by lanthionization.
[0009] In the period of the late 1990s to early 2000s a Japanese
method attempting to avoid conventional lanthionizing chemical
relaxer for Type 2 and Type 3 hair was a multiple-step,
heat-assisted, reduction-oxidation process. The hair was chemically
reduced with an ammonium thioglycolate cream composition for 30-45
minutes. The cream was then rinsed out from the hair and the
reduced hair was mechanically straightened with a heated flat iron
set at a temperature of about 200.degree. C., and then chemically
oxidized with a sodium bromate or hydrogen peroxide lotion. This
process, however, was tediously long, taking between four and six
hours to complete, and chemical damage was not avoided.
[0010] An attempt to achieve permanent hair straightening with some
resistance to reversion has been practiced by hairstylists in
Brazil using liquid or lotion compositions containing formaldehyde
and a blow-drying system (known as "escova progressiva"). This
technique is commonly referred to in the trade as a Brazilian
Keratin Treatment (BKT) but is popular in many parts of the
world.
[0011] Formaldehyde is known to form cross-links among protein end
groups to create a stable, complex matrix. For example,
formaldehyde can form cross-links between amide, amino, and
tyrosine groups, S--CH.sub.2--NH cross-links between N-terminal
cystine and amine groups, NH--CH.sub.2--NH cross-links between
amine groups, and S--CH.sub.2--S (djenkolic acid) cross-links.
[0012] In the BKT process, a solution of formaldehyde (1.5 to 5%)
is applied to the hair, the hair is then blow-dried and flat ironed
while the formaldehyde-containing product is in contact with the
hair. After flat-ironing the hair, the hair is rinsed with water
and styled with conventional hair styling products. The
straightening effect lasts through about two to about three
shampooings before having to repeat the straightening process.
[0013] A variation of the foregoing procedure has been used in
Brazil in which the hair is first swollen with a composition,
referred to in the trade as a dilator, having a pH of about 8.5,
rinsed, then treated with a lotion called a "no frisse lotion"
containing 0.2% formaldehyde, along with a thermal protector lotion
containing silicones, and the hair is then blow dried and flat
ironed. The hair treated in this manner required repeating the
treatment process weekly to progressively to attain some level of
discernible straightening over a period of four consecutive weeks.
Upon stopping usage of the procedure, however, the configuration of
the hair reverts to its original wavy or curly pattern after two to
three shampooings.
[0014] While hair straightened by the foregoing Brazilian processes
was silky, straight and shiny, there are major drawbacks to using
formaldehyde-based products due to health and environmental
concerns and governmental Regulatory restrictions. The permissible
amount of formaldehyde in hair and skin care products in many
countries, including Brazil, cannot exceed 0.2% free formaldehyde,
making it cosmetically undesirable. Additionally, exposure to
formaldehyde solutions can cause contact dermatitis and
formaldehyde fumes given off during the blow-drying process raises
health concerns to the users and practitioners, because
formaldehyde generally is presumed to be a carcinogen. Cross-links
produced by formaldehyde are not stable to acid or alkaline
hydrolysis, and in aqueous solution, formaldehyde undesirably forms
methylene glycol and can react with oxygen to produce formic acid.
Thus, formaldehyde is toxicologically unacceptable.
[0015] There is an ongoing need and desire, therefore, for
cosmetically acceptable compositions and convenient practical
methods that remove substantially all of the natural curl from
naturally curly hair, especially resistant Type 2 and Type 3 hair,
with minimal loss of aesthetically desirable tactile and sheen
properties. The present hair straightening system, method and
compositions therefor enhance the removal of natural curl from the
hair while retaining desirable aesthetic sensory tactile and visual
sheen properties.
SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION
[0016] The invention is directed to enhancing the removal of the
natural curl from hair having a visibly wavy to tight curly
configuration using methods and compositions that provide
straightened hair which retains a desirable tactile feel and hair
sheen. The present invention is particularly suited to
straightening resistant hair having a curl configuration classified
as Type 2 and Type 3.
[0017] Briefly described, the method comprises the following steps
(a)-(j), preferably performed sequentially.
[0018] (a) Wavy, curly hair is contacted with an alkaline
composition comprising a sufficient amount of chemical base to
provide alkalinity in the range of at least pH 8.5 to about pH 14,
preferably in the range of at least pH 9.5 to about pH 13, more
preferably in the range of at least pH 10 to about pH 12 to
partially straighten the original configuration of the hair.
[0019] (b) The alkaline composition is preferably, but optionally,
washed from the partially straightened hair with water.
[0020] (c) The partially straightened hair is dried to a
substantially dry state.
[0021] (d) The so-dried hair is contacted with an acidic
composition having acidity of less than about pH 2.5, preferably in
the range of pH 1.5 to about pH 2, the acidic composition
comprising at least one compound selected from the group consisting
of glyoxylic acid, a glyoxylic amide, and a mixture thereof,
present in an amount sufficient to further straighten the
configuration of the hair.
[0022] (e) The so-contacted hair of step (d) is covered with a cap
and said contact is maintained for a period of up to about 30
minutes, preferably with heating.
[0023] (f) The cap is removed, and the hair is dried, preferably
with heating, to a substantially dried state.
[0024] (g) The substantially dried straightened hair is pressed
with a heated iron, preferably with multiple passes of the iron to
mechanically increase straightening.
[0025] (h) The pressed, straightened hair is washed with water, and
optionally the washed hair is contacted with a hair conditioning
composition comprising an oxidizing agent for a time period
sufficient to condition the hair, and optionally, the conditioned
hair is washed with water.
[0026] (i) After step (h), the hair is blow-dried, optionally with
a thermal protectant composition on the hair.
[0027] (j) The blow-dried hair is pressed with a heated iron,
optionally with a hair conditioning composition on the hair.
[0028] The chemical base in the alkaline composition preferably
comprises at least one compound selected from the group consisting
of an alkali metal hydroxide, an alkaline earth metal hydroxides,
an organic amine, and salts thereof. Preferably at least one alkali
metal hydroxide is selected from the group consisting of sodium
hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, lithium hydroxide, and the like.
Preferably, the alkaline metal hydroxide is calcium hydroxide.
Preferably at least one organic amine is selected from the group
consisting of guanidine, guanidine hydroxide, and C.sub.1-C.sub.6
alkanolamine. Preferably at least one alkaline salt is selected
from the group consisting of sodium carbonate, and sodium
phosphate.
[0029] Preferably the alkaline composition remains in contact with
the hair for a period sufficient to partially straighten the hair
within a period of about 10 to not more than about 30 minutes. Most
preferably, the amount of chemical base preferably is sufficient to
effectively partially straighten the hair and maintain a pH of at
least 9.5, preferably greater than pH 10, during the time the
alkaline composition is in contact with the hair.
[0030] A preferred acidic composition comprises glyoxylic acid,
and/or a glyoxylamide selected from the group consisting of
N-glyoxylcarbocysteine, N-glyoxylderivatives of keratin amino acids
and mixtures thereof.
[0031] Type 2 to Type 4 hair straightened by the enhanced hair
straightening system of this invention was surprisingly soft,
silky, and shiny.
BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWING
[0032] FIG. 1 is a digital image of wavy hair illustrating the
classification of hair waviness calculated from the undulated
relationship of A and W in the sinusoidal-like, "S"-shaped wave as
described herein in the Materials and Methods section.
DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF PREFERRED EMBODIMENTS
[0033] The singular terms "a", "an", and "the", as used in the
specification and the appended claims include plural referents
unless the context clearly dictates otherwise. The antecedent term
"about" applied to a recited range or value denotes an
approximation within the deviation in the range or value known or
expected in the art from the measurements method.
[0034] The term "permanent straightening" means that the natural
curl of the hair has been removed and that the resulting straight
configuration effectively resists reversion (i.e., resumption of a
curly pattern) on being subjected to more than one washing,
preferably at least four washings, and more preferably at least
eight washings or lasts until the scalp hair grows sufficiently to
visibly warrant another hair straightening procedure. The terms
"washed" and "washing" includes rinsing with water.
[0035] The term "substantially dry" with reference to hair means
that the hair feels dry to the touch.
[0036] The term "heating", and "elevated temperature", as used
herein with reference to hair, refers to the use of a heating
device commonly used by consumers and salon professionals for hair
styling procedures, such as an electric hand-held dryer; a
domed/hooded hair dryer, a hair steamer, heating cap, or an
electrical flat heating iron. Hand-held hair dryers are
conventionally used to "blow dry" hair, preferably using an ambient
heat setting temperature in the range of about 100.degree. C. to
about 108.degree. C., more preferably in the range of about
105.degree. C. to about 106.degree. C. Commercial electric flat
hair irons are available having variable heat settings, and
preferably are ceramic. Useful flat irons can be heated to platen
temperatures in the range of about 100.degree. C. to about
230.degree. C., more preferably in the range of about 180.degree.
C. to about 200.degree. C. Commercial hair steamers are available
having variable steam mist heating settings and fitted with steam
bonnets and water reservoirs. Hair steamers are conventionally used
to condition the hair and/or scalp, typically set at a medium
setting for generating a moderate moist mist temperature of about
49.degree. C. Hair steaming is typically performed for about 8
minutes at a medium setting followed by a cool down period of about
2 minutes or, at a low setting for generating a low mist and
moderate temperature for a period of about 10 minutes followed by a
cool down period of about 2 minutes.
[0037] The term "hair conditioning" is used in its conventionally
understood meaning to include the desirable enhancement of the
physical sensory properties (softness, silkiness, smoothness, and
the like), mechanical styling (ease of combing, static flyaway, and
the like), and visual appearance of the hair (hair color, sheen,
and the like) relative to that before the conditioning procedure.
The terms "relax" and "straighten," and grammatical variations
thereof with reference to hair are used interchangeably herein to
mean that the natural curl of the hair has been chemically
straightened with a alkaline composition having a pH of at least
10.
[0038] The term "cosmetically acceptable vehicle" means that the
composition comprises ingredients commonly recognized in the art as
suitable for compositions, such as cosmetics, cosmeceuticals, and
the like, that are topically applied to human hair and skin.
Cosmetically acceptable vehicles for compositions useful in the
hair straightening system of this invention are illustrated in the
Examples below, without being limited thereto.
[0039] Ingredients that can be employed in the hair straightening
and hair conditioning compositions and system discussed herein are
referred to by their commonly used chemical or trade names or by
the international nomenclature commonly referred to as INCI name
given them in any edition of the International Cosmetic Ingredient
Dictionary and Handbook, (hereafter INCI Dictionary), such as found
in Volumes 1-3, of the Seventh Edition (1997) or Eighth Edition
(2000) or Ninth Edition (2002), all published by the Cosmetic,
Toiletry, and Fragrance Association, Washington D.C. (now Personal
Care Products Council). Numerous commercial suppliers of materials
listed by INCI name, trade name, or both, can be found in any
edition of the INCI Dictionary and in numerous commercial trade
publications, including but not limited to, the 2001 Cosmetic Bench
Reference edition of COSMETICS & TOILETRIES.RTM., 115 (13), or
the Cosmetic Bench Reference 2004, both published by Allured
Publishing Corporation, Carol Stream, Ill. (2001), and the 2001
McCutcheon's Directories, Volume 1: Emulsifiers & Detergents
and Volume 2: Functional Materials, published by McCutcheon's
Division, The Manufacturing Confectioner Publishing Co., Glen Rock,
N.J. (2001); the relevant disclosures of each of the foregoing
publications being incorporated herein by reference.
[0040] The term "cosmetic adjuvant" includes cosmetically useful
product finishing and promotional additives, well known and
conventionally used in the cosmetic arts to maintain the physical
stability of a composition during storage (shelf life), and the
visible aesthetic appearance of a composition during storage and
during the use of the composition. Cosmetic adjuvants that maintain
the stability of products typically include a metal-ion chelating
agent, an antioxidizing agent, a preservative, an emulsifying
agent, a perfume solubilizer, and the like, but are not limited
thereto. Cosmetic adjuvants, sometimes called promotional
ingredients, aid in enhancing the aesthetics and marketing appeal
of the product and include, without limitation, a product colorant,
a fragrance, and the like.
[0041] The chemical base in the alkaline compositions preferably
comprises at least one compound selected from the group consisting
of an alkali metal hydroxide, an alkaline earth metal hydroxide, an
organic amine, and salts thereof. Preferred alkali metal hydroxides
are selected from the group consisting of sodium hydroxide,
potassium hydroxide, lithium hydroxide, and the like. Sodium
hydroxide is preferred. Alkaline earth metal hydroxide is
preferably calcium hydroxide. Organic amines are preferably
selected from the group consisting of guanidine, guanidine
hydroxide, and C.sub.1-C.sub.6 alkalolamine. Exemplary
C.sub.1-C.sub.6 alkanolamines include monoethanolamine,
diethanolamine, triethanolamine, di-isopropylamine, and the like.
Triethanolamine is preferred. Preferred alkaline salts are selected
from the group consisting of sodium carbonate and sodium
phosphate.
[0042] A useful concentration of sodium hydroxide is in the range
of about 0.05 to about 1.5, preferably in the range of about 0.1 to
about 1, active weight percent based on the weight of the
composition. A useful concentration of triethanolamine is in the
range of about 0.1 to about 1.5, preferably in the range of about
0.2 to about 1 active weight percent, based on the weight of the
composition.
[0043] Guanidine hydroxide is preferably prepared just before use
by admixing a composition comprising calcium hydroxide with a
composition comprising guanidine carbonate. For normal to resistant
hair, about 140 grams of a composition comprising calcium
hydroxide, in a range of about 5.5 to about 7.5 active weight
percent, can be admixed with about 10 to about 20 grams of a
composition, typically called an "activator," comprising about 27.2
active weight percent of guanidine carbonate.
[0044] Acidic compositions employed in the method of this invention
preferably comprise at least one organic compound selected from the
group consisting of glyoxylic acid, a glyoxylic amide, and a
mixture thereof, in a cosmetically acceptable vehicle having an
acidic pH of less than about pH 2.5, preferably in the range of
about pH 1.5 to about pH 2. The amount of organic compound is
preferably in the range of about 5 to about 25, more preferably in
the range of about 10 to about 20, most preferably in the range of
about 15 to about 18 active weight percent, based on the total
weight of the acidic composition.
[0045] Glyoxylic acid, also called oxoacetic acid or oxoethanoic
acid, is an organic compound having a molecular formula of
C.sub.2H.sub.2O.sub.3, a melting point of 80.degree. C., and a
boiling point of 111.degree. C. It is usually described by the
chemical formula OCHCO.sub.2H. Although glyoxylic acid is an
aldehydic acid, the aldehyde functional group is not observed in
solution or as a solid. Thus, glyoxylic acid, like aldehydes with
electron-withdrawing substituents, reportedly exists in what is
described as the "monohydrate" form, (HO).sub.2CHCO.sub.2H, and
this diol exists in equilibrium with the dimeric hemiacetal in
solution. A preferred amount of glyoxylic acid is in the range of
about 5 to about 20 active weight percent, more preferably in the
range of about 10 to about 15 active weight percent, based on the
total weight of the finished composition.
[0046] Glyoxylic amides are preferably selected from the group
consisting of N-glyoxylcarbocysteine, N-glyoxylderivatives of
keratin amino acids and mixtures thereof. A mixture of
N-glyoxylcarbocysteine, N-glyoxylderivatives of keratin amino acids
is commercially available from Polytechno Ind strias Quimicas Ltda
under the trade name PROLISS 100, identified as a mixture of
oxoacetamidocarbocysteine and oxoacetamido amino acids derived from
keratin (hydrolyzed keratin). According to the manufacturer, the
PROLISS 100 organic compound does not liberate formaldehyde even at
elevated temperatures of up to 200.degree. C. A preferred amount of
glyoxylamide is in the range of about 5 to about 25 active weight
percent, more preferably in the range of about 10 to about 20
active weight percent, most preferably in the range of about 15 to
about 18 weight percent, based on the total weight of the finished
composition.
[0047] Those skilled in the formulation arts can readily determine
the amounts of chemical base in the alkaline compositions, and the
glyoxylic acid and glyoxlic amides to be used in the acidic
compositions by the amount of curl removal desired for the hair
type. The compositions can be prepared and used in the form of
aqueous liquids, or formulated as emulsions by techniques known in
the art. A preferred composition is in the form of a cosmetically
acceptable aqueous emulsion vehicle comprising emulsifiers,
cationic polymers, hair conditioning agents, hair protective
lubricants, and the like.
[0048] In the practice of the method of this invention, reference
is made to the type of natural curl in the hair, described by its
Global Type and Sub-type classification as set out in Table 1 for
convenience without being limited thereto.
TABLE-US-00001 TABLE 1 GLOBAL HAIR TYPE CLASSIFICATION STRAIGHT
TYPE-1 WAVY TYPE-2 Attributes 1A 1B 1C 2A 2B 2C Texture Fine Medium
Coarse Fine/Thin Medium Coarse Wave Pattern-Dry None None None Wavy
Wavy Wavy S-Pattern S-Pattern Pronounced, Well-Defined S-Pattern
Wave Pattern-Wet Straight Straight Straight Straight Straight Wavy
Stylability/ Low Medium Medium Easily Slightly Easily Manageability
straightened resistant to straightened or or curled styling curled
Body Low High High Medium Medium Medium Elasticity/ Low/ Medium/
High/ Medium/ Medium/ Medium/ Strength Strong Strong Very Strong
Strong Strong Strong Frizz Tendencies Low Low Low Medium Medium
Medium to Easy Shine High High High Less Than Less Than Less Than
Gloss Type-1 Type-1 Type-1 Scalp & Hair Oily Oily Oily Normal
Normal Normal Dryness/ Oiliness CURLY - TYPE-3 TIGHTLY CURLED -
TYPE-4 Attributes 3A 3B 3C 4A 4B 4C Texture Thin Medium Coarse Fine
Medium/ Coarse Coarse Wave Pattern- Soft, Medium Tight Tight Curls
Kinky/ Very Kinky/ Dry naturally Loopy S- Loopy S-Curl when Coils
when Coils when loose, Curl* stretched stretched make stretched
make loopy S- make an S- a Z-shape a Z-shape Curl shape Wave
Pattern- Wavy Wavier Wavier Coiled Tighter Coil Very Tight Coil Wet
than 3A than 3B than 4A Stylability/ Low/ Low/ Low/ Very Low Very
Low/ Very Low/ Manageability Difficult Difficult Difficult
Difficult Difficult Body High High High Very High Very High Very
High Elasticity/ High/ High/ High/ Poor/ Poor/ Poor/ Strength
Strong Strong Strong Fragile Fragile Fragile Frizz High High High
High High High Tendencies Shine Dull Dull Dull Low L:ow Low Scalp
& Hair Normal Somewhat Somewhat Dry Very Dry Very Dry Dryness/
Dry Dry Oiliness *Ringlets to tight corkscrew configuration
[0049] Wavy, curly and very curly Type 2 to Type 4 hair is always
difficult to comb in both its wet and dry state and is always
difficult to style. Variations in weather and climate, in
particular, affect this type of hair making it even more difficult
to style as humidity increases. Type 4 hair, in particular, also is
fragile and loses it tensile strength significantly (up to as much
as 35 to 52%) upon being straightened with conventional alkaline
relaxers containing sodium hydroxide or guanidine hydroxide and the
feel and shine of the straightened hair is also significantly
compromised (the straightened hair but feels rough and is dulled).
Type 2 and Type 3 hair tends to be very resistant to alkaline hair
straighteners containing sodium hydroxide or guanidine hydroxide as
the chemical base. This straightening effect on these hair types
also tends to revert immediately to being somewhat wavy or slightly
curly right after receiving these alkaline hair straightening
procedures, especially under humid conditions.
[0050] Briefly described, in the method of this invention, the
naturally curly hair is first partially straightened with an
alkaline composition comprising a chemical base at a pH of at least
8.5, preferably at least about 9.5, more preferably at least about
10, then further straightened with an acidic composition comprising
at least one organic compound selected from the group consisting of
glyoxylic acid, a glyoxylic amide, and a mixture thereof,
preferably at an elevated temperature, followed by further
mechanically straightening the hair by multiple pressings with a
heated flat iron. Type 2-4 hair is effectively straightened, loss
of tensile strength is minimized, and the hair is desirably soft,
silky to the touch, and has a luxurious sheen.
[0051] In one aspect, the efficacy of the hair straightening system
of this invention was evaluated by determining retention of the
tensile strength of the hair employing an Intermittent Stress
Relaxation (ISR) method, described in the Materials and Methods
section below. In another aspect, the efficacy of the hair
straightening system was assessed by determining the hair waviness
from digital images taken of the hair before and after receiving a
procedure, also as described in the Materials and Methods
section.
[0052] In one particularly preferred embodiment of the method of
this invention, the naturally curly hair is first partially
straightened for about 10 minutes, preferably to a visibly looser,
straighter configuration with an alkaline composition comprising a
sufficient amount of chemical base to maintain a pH of at least
9.5, preferably of at least 10, during the partial straightening
process. After washing the alkaline composition from the hair with
water and drying the washed hair, preferably under a hooded salon
hair dryer, to a substantially dry state, the so-dried hair is
further straightened by contacting the hair with an acidic
composition preferably having a pH in the range of about 1.5 to
about 2, and comprising at least one organic compound selected from
the group consisting of glyoxylic acid, a glyoxylic amide, and a
mixture thereof. The organic compound is preferably present in an
amount sufficient to further straighten the configuration of the
hair. Preferably, the so-contacted hair is covered with a cap
(plastic or metallic foil) and the contact maintained for a period
of up to about 30 minutes, preferably heated using a hair steamer
or hair dryer.
[0053] The further straightened hair is then preferably blown dry
to a substantially dried state, using a hand-held electric hair
dryer while brushing the hair with a round or flat brush.
Alternatively, the further straightened hair is set on rollers
having a wide diameter of at least about 3.8 centimeters (about 1.5
inches) and dried under an electric hooded salon dryer. After
drying the straightened hair, thin tress sections of the hair are
selected and pressed with multiple passes of a heated flat iron,
set a temperature in the range of about 180.degree. C. to about
230.degree. C. to further mechanically straighten the configuration
of the hair. After pressing, the hair is cooled at ambient room
temperature for about 5 minutes, and then rinsed with water with
remove any residual acidic composition from the hair.
[0054] In another preferred embodiment, the method further includes
conditioning the washed, pressed straightened hair with a hair
conditioning composition comprising an oxidizing agent for a time
period sufficient to condition the hair and remove any unwanted
residual chemical odor remaining thereon. Preferably, but
optionally, the oxidant conditioner is washed from the air with
water.
[0055] The oxidant hair conditioning composition preferably
contains an oxidizing agent selected from hydrogen peroxide, sodium
bromate, and the like. The amount of hydrogen peroxide preferably
is in the range of about 1 to about 10 active weight percent, more
preferably in the range of about 2.5 to about 3 active weight
percent, based on the total weight of the hair conditioning
composition. The amount of sodium bromate preferably is in the
range of about 1 to about 6 active weight percent, more preferably
in the range of about 4 to about 5 active weight percent, based on
the total weight of the hair conditioning composition. The oxidant
hair conditioning composition improves the olefactory
characteristics of chemically straightened hair by effectively
eliminating any undesirable residual chemical odors sometimes
attendant to heat-assisted, chemical hair straightening processes.
The oxidant hair conditioning composition is preferably rinsed from
the hair to minimize lightening of the natural hair color, or
alternatively, can remain on the hair if the user wishes to
intentionally lighten or highlight the natural hair color.
[0056] The wet conditioned hair can be blotted with a towel, and
the coiffure finished as is practiced in the art, by typically
applying a thermal protectant hair conditioning composition to the
towel-blotted hair and blow-drying the hair using a flat brush, and
preferably, but optionally, subsequently applying a hair
conditioning sheen product to the hair and pressing selected large
tress sections of the hair to a final, Type-1 like, straight style
with a flat iron set at a temperature of about 180.degree.
C.-200.degree. C.
[0057] Hair straightening compositions of this invention for use in
the enhanced hair straightening system and method are preferably
provided in kits in packaged form, together with instructional
indicia for use. A preferred kit embodiment includes at least one
acidic composition, and preferably an alkaline composition. The kit
may contain one or more implements for performing a hair
straightening procedure, i.e., disposable gloves, brush, comb, a
hand-held blow dryer, a flat hair iron, and the like. The kit
components preferably are contained in an outer package. The outer
package can be a box or carton or shrink wrap, and preferably has
instructional indicia printed thereon or visible therethrough.
[0058] Useful instructional indicia can be printed media, aural
media, visual aids, electronic media or a combination thereof,
which instruct the user on the use of the hair straightening
product in the hair straightening system. Printed media include,
but are not limited to, labels attached to, or imprinted on, the
components of the kit, package inserts, pamphlets, books, flyers,
and the like. Aural media include, but are not limited to, tape
recordings, audio compact disks, records, and the like. Visual aids
include, but are not limited, to photographs, slides, movies,
videos, DVDs, and the like. Electronic media includes all forms of
electronic data storage media, such as, but not limited to,
diskettes, interactive CD-ROMs, interactive DVDs, and the like.
[0059] While the mechanism of the hair straightening system is not
fully understood, and without being limited thereto, it is believed
that the hair is first partially straightened by being lanthionized
by the alkaline chemical base and then restructured by the acidic
composition further introducing stable crosslinks to the
lanthionized hair, augmented by elevated temperatures and
mechanical heated straightening to enhance hair straightening while
surprisingly retaining the desirable aesthetic properties of the
hair.
[0060] The following non-limiting examples are provided to further
illustrate the invention.
Materials and Methods
[0061] In the following examples the following materials and
methods were used, unless otherwise indicated, to assess the
efficacy of the enhanced hair straightening system of this
invention.
I. Intermittent Stress Relaxation Method (ISR)
[0062] One preferred method of evaluating the elastic tensile
strength of wet hair is referred to as the "Intermittent Stress
Relaxation (ISR) Method" using a Dynamic Mechanical Analyzer (e.g.,
TA Instruments, Model Q800) equipped with a hair-fiber anchoring
assembly that can be submerged in water. In the ISR Method an
individual hair fiber (gauge length about 14.82 millimeters (mm) in
length) is clamped at two opposing portions in the fiber anchoring
assembly, which is then submerged in water. The length of the
submerged hair fiber is then stretched in water to a constant
strain of about 0.5% of its length (i.e., an elongation of about
0.07 mm to a total length of about 14.89 mm) for about 0.1 minute,
and then allowed to relax by removing the strain for about 0.9
minutes, and this cycle of intermittent stress strain and
relaxation is repeated for a total of about 10 cycles.
[0063] The area of the hair fiber is measured using a Beta
LaserMike micrometer (Beta LaserMike, USA). The average area is
recorded as (x+y)/2 where x is the minor axis and y is the major
axis. The amount of stress (in grams/denier fiber) for each cycle
of hair fiber is measured and recorded before and after receiving a
hair straightening procedure. The ratio (index) of the stress of
the hair before receiving the procedure relative to the stress of
the hair after the procedure is calculated and the change in the
ratio is judged as indicative of loss, or protection from loss, in
tensile strength. An index value of 1=no change in hair tensile
strength, an index value of less than 1 indicates a loss
(weakening) in tensile strength, and an index value of greater than
1 indicates an increase (strengthening) in tensile strength. The
ISR is evaluated for randomly sampled ten hair fibers by measuring
the ISR of the hair fiber before and after a hair straightening and
then calculating the ISR Index in this manner for each of the
fibers.
[0064] Measuring the elasticity of wet hair, when stretched in the
range of about 0.5 to about 1 percent of its length, is judged as
simulating the range of strain applied during a conventional hair
grooming process, such as combing, brushing, styling and setting of
the hair.
II. Hair Straightening Method
[0065] The following method was used in salon studies, unless
otherwise indicated.
[0066] 1. A digital photograph is taken of the front and back view
of the subject's dry hair before starting the procedure. The
subject's hair type is assessed and recorded.
[0067] 2. The hair is then wet with water to determine and classify
the degree of curl pattern, and a digital picture of the back of
the hair is taken to serve as a control.
[0068] 3. The wet hair is then dried to the touch with a hand-held
dryer or a hood dryer. Hair dried to the touch is referred to
herein as substantially dried hair and is generally estimated to be
about 80 to 90 percent dry.
[0069] 4. An Alkaline Composition of this invention, as identified
in the following examples, is applied to, and distributed through,
the hair. A sufficient amount of the composition is applied to
thoroughly coat the fibers from the root to the end portions of the
hair. The amount of the Alkaline Composition applied overall to the
head of hair typically is in the range of about 190 to about 290
grams, depending on the length and volume density of the hair. The
Alkaline Composition is left in contact with the hair for a period
in the range of about 10 to not more than about 40 minutes or a
period sufficient to partially straighten the hair. The hair is
checked periodically and is judged as being sufficiently partially
straightened when the curl lays flat and straight. The partially
straightened hair is then water rinsed. (Water rinsing can be
dispensed with, if desired, where an Alkaline Composition, such as
illustrated in Examples 2, and 5 is employed).
[0070] 5. The water-rinsed hair is substantially dried, preferably
under a hooded dryer.
[0071] 6. An Acidic composition of this invention, as identified in
the following Examples, is applied to, and distributed through the
hair, by parting the hair into narrow tress sections and brushing
the composition onto each selected tress section. The amount of
Acidic Composition applied to the overall head of hair is typically
in the range of about 60 to about 90 grams. Where side by side
(half-head) comparisons are desired, the hair is first sectioned
from front to back and about 30 to about 45 g of Acidic Composition
is applied per side.
[0072] 7. The hair preferably is covered with aluminum foil to
provide a metal cap, and then steamed for a period of about 15 to
about 30 minutes under a commercial hair steamer set at a medium
steam mist heat setting (about 49.degree. C.). A commercial hair
steamer, such as available from YCC Products, Inc., is useful. If a
hair steamer is unavailable, a plastic cap and a conventional hair
dryer can be used. Alternatively, the cap-covered hair can be
maintained at ambient room temperature.
[0073] 8. The cap is removed from the hair.
[0074] 9. The hair is then blow-dried using a hand-held hair dryer
and a brush (round or flat) or the fingers. Alternatively, the hair
is roller-set and dried as described in step 10.
[0075] 10. If roller setting is chosen after step 8, the hair is
wound on rollers having a medium large diameter of about 3.8 cm
(1.5 inches) and then dried under a hooded hair dryer.
[0076] 11. When the hair is substantially dry, the rollers are
removed and the hair is pressed with multiple passes of a heated
Flat Iron set at a high heat setting (about 180.degree. C. to about
230.degree. C.). Typically the hair is parted into thin, narrow
tress sections and about seven passes of the heated Flat iron per
selected tress section is judged sufficient to further mechanically
straighten the hair.
[0077] 12. The pressed hair is then cooled for about 5 minutes.
[0078] 13. The cooled hair is then rinsed with water to remove
residual Acidic Composition from the straightened hair.
[0079] 14. If desired, a hair conditioning composition comprising
an oxidizing agent is applied to the pressed hair, distributed
therethrough and left in contact with the hair for about 15
minutes. The amount of the hair conditioning composition applied
typically is in the range of about 30 to about 60 grams. The hair
is then water rinsed and excess moisture is blotted with a
towel.
[0080] 15. The hair is blow-dried using a flat brush, preferably
with a thermal protectant composition, such as KERACARE.RTM.
Thermal Protector (Avlon Industries, Inc.), applied to the
hair.
[0081] 16. The hair pressed with multiple passes of a heated Flat
Iron at a high heat setting (about 180.degree. C. to about
230.degree. C.) through wide tresses sections, preferably with a
conditioning styling composition, such as KERACARE.RTM.Silken Seal
Liquid Sheen (Avlon Industries, Inc.) is applied to the hair.
[0082] If the subject is satisfied with the level of hair
straightening achieved after step 13, one or more of steps 14, 15,
and 16 can be omitted.
III. Digital Image Classification of Hair Waviness
[0083] The efficacy of the hair straightening system of this
invention can be evaluated at any step of the procedure described
in Method II by digitally classifying the wave configuration of the
hair before and after receiving a procedure and by calculating the
change in waviness as described below.
[0084] 1. Categorize the waviness of the hair by taking a digital
photograph of the back view of the subject's head, with a ruler
positioned alongside the hair to record the length of the hair
being imaged. The ruler is preferably scaled in centimeters and
provides a guide for generally categorizing the same length of hair
when a subsequent digital photograph is taken.
[0085] 2. Classify the waviness of the photographed image of the
hair as illustrated in FIG. 1 by measuring the distance (W) between
the peaks and the depth (A) of the valley of at least one
sinusoidal-like, undulating "S"-shaped curve and calculating the
waviness factor (V) using the following equation: V=2A/W. The
waviness factor calculated for the subject's hair before receiving
any straightening procedures (step 1 or 2 of Method II) is referred
to as Vo, where "o" represents the original waviness of the
subject's hair normalized to 100%.
[0086] 3. Repeat steps 1 and 2 at any given step of Method II and
calculate the waviness factor. The waviness factor calculated after
any given step of Method II is referred to as Vsn, where "sn"
represents the step number at which the digital image was taken.
The waviness factor is normalized relative to Vo and Vsn, and
represents the residual waviness of the hair at that point. For
example, a Vsn of 48 represents a total hair waviness of 48% for
that subject.
[0087] 4. The efficacy of the hair straightening procedure at any
step of the procedure is determined by calculating the change in
the ratio of Vo to Vsn, by using the equation Vo-Vsn. For example,
the change from a Vo of 100 to a Vsn of 48 represents a reduction
in waviness (i.e., the straightening efficacy) of 52%.
[0088] The straightening efficacy can be determined at any step in
the hair straightening procedure, and on wet or dry hair, as
desired.
[0089] The following examples illustrate Acidic and Alkaline
Compositions and hair conditioning compositions comprising an
oxidizing agent suitable for use in the method of this invention,
and are not intended to be limiting. The ingredients are identified
by their trade name, or common name or the INCI name assigned by
the supplier. The amounts are listed either as active weight
percent, or as weight percent as is (i.e., added as supplied by the
manufacturer), based on the total weight of the finished
composition, unless indicated otherwise. The term "q.s." with
reference to the amount of ingredient is commonly understood in the
art to mean "quantity sufficient", and is generally readily
determined by persons skilled in the formulation arts. Likewise,
those skilled in the art understand that the term "deionized water
to 100%" means the amount of water added is sufficient to complete
the formulation to the final finished weight, (i.e., in % or as
parts by weight) and is readily determined by the skilled
formulator.
Example 1
Alkaline Compositions
TABLE-US-00002 [0090] A B Weight Weight Ingredients Percent Percent
Trade/Common/INCI/Name Active Active White Petrolatum 9 9 Mineral
Oil 12 12 Cetearyl Alcohol (and) Dicetyl Phosphate 7.5 7.5 (and)
Ceteth-10 Phosphate Ceteth-10 3 3 Ceteth-2 0.5 0.5 Polysorbate-60
0.5 0.5 Shea Butter 0.05 0.05 Cocoa Butter 0.05 0.05 Simethicone
0.02 0.02 Green Tea 0.01 0.01 Calendula Petals 0.01 0.01 Propylene
Glycol 2 2 Honey 0.01 0.01 Polyvinyl Alcohol 1 1 Fragrance q.s.
q.s. Ethylene Urea -- 1.7 Sodium Hydroxide 1 0.5 Betz Polymer 1195
0.4 1 Aloe Vera Powder 0.025 0.03 Deionized Water to 100% q.s. q.s.
pH 12.8 11.8 q.s. = quantity sufficient
Example 2
Alkaline Compositions
TABLE-US-00003 [0091] B E F G Weight Weight Weight Weight
Ingredients Percent Percent Percent Percent Trade/Common/INCI/Name
Active Active Active Active Quaternium-80 0.25 0.25 0.25 0.25
Polysorbate 20 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 Simethicone -- -- -- 0.02 Polyvinyl
Alcohol 1 -- -- -- Fragrance 0.1 0.05 0.05 0.2 Hydrolyzed Keratin
-- -- -- 0.1 Triethanolamine (99%) 1 0.69 0.36 0.6 Keratin (and)
Hydrolyzed Keratin 0.1 0.1 0.1 -- Preservative q.s. q.s. q.s. q.s.
Deionized Water to 100% q.s. q.s. q.s. q.s. pH at 25.degree. C. 9.5
9.5 9.4 8.5-9.5 q.s. = quantity sufficient
Example 3
Hair Conditioners
[0092] This example illustrates hair conditioning compositions
comprising an oxidizing agent.
TABLE-US-00004 B C D Weight Weight Weight Ingredients Percent
Percent Percent Trade/Common/INCI/Name As Is As Is As Is Versene
220 0.2 0.2 0.2 Soyethyl Morpholinium 0.5 0.5 0.5 Ethosulfate
Behentrimonium Methosulfate 2 2 3.7 (and) Cetearyl Alcohol Ceteth-2
1.3 1.3 2.5 Fatty Alcohol - TA 1618F 5 7 5 Ceteareth-20 2.2 3 2.2
Sodium Stearoamphoacetate 2 2 2 Sodium Bromate CG 7 7 7 Disodium
Phosphate Anhydrous 0.6 0.6 0.6 Deionized Water to 100% q.s. q.s
q.s. pH 7 7 7.1
Example 4
Alkaline Composition
[0093] This example illustrates the use of an Alkaline Composition
where the chemical base is guanidine hydroxide. The Alkaline
Composition is prepared immediately before using by mixing together
about 140 grams of a commercial creme relaxer (AFFIRM Moisture Plus
Creme Relaxer Prime), comprising about 8.75% calcium hydroxide,
with about 14 grams of a commercial liquid aqueous activator
(AFFIRM Liquid Activator Prime), comprising about 27.2% guanidine
carbonate.
[0094] One subject having previously colored, Type 3B hair received
enhanced hair straightening using a half-head comparison in a salon
study. The hair straightening procedure of Method II described
above was generally followed using the freshly prepared Alkaline
Composition, leaving it in contact with the hair for about 18
minutes to partially straighten the tight curls, and then
thoroughly rinsed from the hair. The half-head procedure of step 6
was performed by applying the Acidic Composition of Example 8AG to
the hair on one side and the Acidic Composition of Example 11BC to
the hair on the opposite side. Each composition comprised about 15
active weight percent glyoxylic amide. The Acidic Composition was
left in contact with the hair about 30 minutes, steam heated,
blown-dry and flat ironed as described in steps 7-13.
[0095] The straightened hair was conditioned in step 14 with a hair
conditioner containing about 2% hydrogen peroxide. The oxidant hair
conditioner was prepared by admixing one part by weight of 6%
hydrogen peroxide liquid into two parts by weight of a commercial
hair conditioner (AFFIRM 5 in 1 Reconstructive Conditioner, Avlon
Industries, Inc.).
[0096] The straightening achieved on this Type 3B hair with the
Alkaline Composition was judged to be about 76%. Overall, the
straightening of the hair by the Acidic Compositions was judged to
be enhanced to about 79%, based on the appearance of the wet hair
and enhanced to about 98%, based on the appearance of the dry hair.
The straightened hair was very silky and soft in feel, was very
shiny and any undesirable residual chemical odor on the hair was
minimized.
Example 5
Alkaline Compositions
TABLE-US-00005 [0097] D H Ingredients Weight % Weight %
Trade/Common/INC/Name As is As is Quaternium-80 0.25 --
Polyquaternium-6 -- 0.5 Polysorbate-20 0.5 0.5 Fragrance 0.05 0.05
Sodium Carbonate 0.003 -- Keratin (and) Hydrolyzed Keratin 0.1 --
Sodium Hydroxide (50%) -- 0.5 Preservative 0.1 -- Potassium Sorbate
0.1 -- Deionized Water to 100% q.s. q.s. pH at 25.degree. C. 9.3
12.1
Example 6
Acidic Compositions
TABLE-US-00006 [0098] M O Q R Weight Weight Weight Weight
Ingredients Percent Percent Percent Percent Trade/Common/INCI/Name
As Is As Is As Is As Is Citric Acid 0.05 0.05 0.05 0.05 Ceteth-2
0.9 0.9 0.45 0.45 Glyceryl Stearate (and) 0.1 0.1 0.05 0.05 PEG-100
Stearate Argan Oil 0.5 2 1 1 Dimethyl Stearamide 0.5 0.5 0.25 0.5
Behentrimonium Methosulfate 0.2 0.2 0.2 -- (and) Cetearyl Alcohol
Cetyl Alcohol 0.134 0.134 0.134 -- Keratin (and) 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1
Hydrolyzed Keratin Cyclomethicone 2 2 2 5 Perfluorononyl
Dimethicone 0.5 0.5 0.5 -- Cetyl Dimethicone 0.25 0.25 0.25 --
Fragrance 0.2 0.2 0.05 0.05 Preservative 0.1 0.1 0.05 0.05
Potassium Sorbate 0.1 0.1 -- -- Proliss 100 (50%) 30 30 30 30
Deionized Water to 100% q.s. q.s. q.s. q.s.
Example 7
Acidic Compositions
TABLE-US-00007 [0099] U Y Z AA Weight Weight Weight Weight
Ingredients Percent Percent Percent Percent Trade/Common/INCI/Name
As Is As Is As Is As Is Citric Acid 0.05 0.05 0.05 0.05 Ceteth-2
0.45 0.45 0.45 0.45 Glyceryl Stearate (and) 0.05 0.05 0.05 0.05
PEG-100 Stearate Argan Oil 0.75 0.75 0.75 0.75 Dimethyl Stearamide
0.25 0.25 0.25 0.25 Behentrimonium Methosulfate 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2
(and) Cetearyl Alcohol Cetyl Alcohol 0.13 0.13 0.13 0.13 Hydrolyzed
Keratin 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 Cyclomethicone 5 10 10 12.5 Perfluorononyl
Dimethicone 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 Cetyl Dimethicone 0.25 0.25 0.25 0.25
Fragrance 0.05 0.05 0.05 0.05 Silantrol (and) Panthenol -- -- 2 2
Preservative 0.05 0.05 0.06 0.05 Proliss 100 (50% aqueous) 30 30 30
30 Deionized Water to 100% q.s. q.s. q.s. q.s.
Example 8
Acidic Compositions
TABLE-US-00008 [0100] AE AF AG AM Weight Weight Weight Weight
Ingredients Percent Percent Percent Percent Trade/Common/INCI/Name
As Is As Is As Is As Is Citric Acid 0.05 0.05 0.05 0.05
Polyquaternum 67 0.2 0.2 -- -- PEG-90 M 0.5 0.5 -- -- Ceteth-2 0.45
0.45 0.45 0.45 Glyceryl Stearate (and) 0.05 0.05 0.05 0.05 PEG-100
Stearate Argan Oil 0.75 0.75 0.75 0.8 Dimethyl Stearamide 0.25 0.25
0.25 0.25 Behentrimonium Methosulfate 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 (and)
Cetearyl Alcohol Cetyl Alcohol 0.13 0.13 0.13 0.13 Hydrolyzed
Keratin 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 Soyethyl Morpholinium 0.5 -- -- --
Ethosulfate Cyclomethicone 12.5 12.5 12.5 15 Perfluorononyl
Dimethicone 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 Cetyl Dimethicone 0.25 0.25 0.25 0.25
Fragrance 1 1 1 1 Silantrol (and) Panthenol 2 2 2 2 Preservative
0.05 0.05 0.05 0.05 Proliss 100 (50%) 30 30 30 37.5 Deionized Water
to 100% q.s. q.s. q.s. q.s.
Example 9
Acidic Compositions
TABLE-US-00009 [0101] AN AQ AR AU Weight Weight Weight Weight
Ingredients Percent Percent Percent Percent Trade/Common/INCI/Name
As Is As Is As Is As Is Citric Acid 0.05 0.05 0.05 0.05 Ceteth-2
0.45 0.45 0.45 0.45 Glyceryl Stearate (and) 0.05 0.05 0.05 0.05
PEG-100 Stearate Argan Oil 0.8 1 1 0.75 Dimethyl Stearamide 0.25
0.25 0.25 0.25 Behentrimonium Methosulfate 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 (and)
Cetearyl Alcohol Cetyl Alcohol 0.13 0.13 0.13 0.13 Hydrolyzed
Keratin 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 Cyclomethicone 15 15 15 15 Perfluorononyl
Dimethicone 0.5 0.5 0.5 -- Cetyl Dimethicone 0.25 0.25 0.25 --
Fragrance 1 1 1 1 Silantrol (and) Panthenol 2 2 2 2 Preservative
0.05 0.05 0.05 0.05 Zinc Nitrate -- -- 0.2 -- Glyoxylic Acid (50%
aqueous) -- 20 25 -- Proliss 100 (50% aqueous) 35 -- -- 30
Deionized Water to 100% q.s. q.s. q.s. q.s.
Example 10
Acidic Compositions
TABLE-US-00010 [0102] AV AW AX BA Weight Weight Weight Weight
Ingredients Percent Percent Percent Percent Trade/Common/INCI/Name
As Is As Is As Is As Is Citric Acid 0.05 0.05 0.05 0.05 Ceteth-2
0.45 0.45 0.45 0.45 Glyceryl Stearate (and) 0.05 0.05 0.05 0.05
PEG-100 Stearate Argan Oil 1 5 4 5 Dimethyl Stearamide 0.25 0.25
0.25 0.25 Behentrimonium Methosulfate 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.4 (and)
Cetearyl Alcohol Cetyl Alcohol 0.27 0.27 0.27 0.27 Hydrolyzed
Keratin 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 Cyclomethicone 15 -- -- -- Perfluorononyl
Dimethicone 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 Cetyl Dimethicone 0.25 0.25 0.25 0.25
Fragrance 1 1 1 1 Silantrol (and) Panthenol 2 2 2 2 Preservative
0.05 0.05 0.05 0.05 Proliss 100 (50%) 30 30 30 30 Deionized Water
to 100% q.s. q.s. q.s. q.s.
Example 11
Acidic Compositions
TABLE-US-00011 [0103] Wt. % Wt. % Wt. % Wt. % Wt. % Ingredients As
Is As Is As Is As Is As Is Wt. % Trade/Common/INCI/Name BB BC BE BF
BG As Is B Citric Acid 0.05 0.05 0.05 0.05 0.05 -- Ceteth-2 0.45
0.45 0.45 0.45 0.45 -- Glyceryl Stearate (and) 0.05 0.05 0.05 0.05
0.05 -- PEG-100 Stearate Polyquaternum 67 -- -- -- -- -- 0.2 Argan
Oil 3 2.5 -- -- -- -- Shea Butter amidopropyltrimonium -- -- -- --
-- 0.7 chloride Sunflower Oil -- -- 2.5 2 1.75 2 Distearyl
Stearamide 0.25 0.25 0.25 0.25 0.25 -- Behentriomonium Methosulfate
(and) 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.7 Cetearyl Alcohol Cetyl Alcohol 0.27
0.27 0.27 0.27 0.27 -- PEG-90M (and water) -- -- -- -- -- 2
Hydrodyzed Keratin 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 -- Perfluorononyl
Dimethicone 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 -- Cetyl Dimethicone 0.25 0.25 0.25
0.25 0.25 -- Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein (and) -- -- -- -- -- 2
Methicone (and) Polyquaternum-10 and carbocysteine Fragrance 1 1 1
1 1 0.5 Silantriol (and) Panthenol 2 2 2 2 2 2 Preservative 0.05
0.05 0.05 0.05 0.05 -- Proliss 100 (50% aqueous) 30 30 30 30 30 30
Actiphyte of Sunflower Seed BG 50P -- -- -- -- 2 2 Deionized Water
to 100% q.s. q.s. q.s. q.s. q.s. q.s.
Example 12
Acidic Compositions
TABLE-US-00012 [0104] AI AJ AK AP Weight Weight Weight Weight
Ingredients Percent Percent Percent Percent Trade/Common/INCI/Name
As Is As Is As Is As Is Citric Acid 0.05 0.05 0.05 0.05 Ceteth-2
0.45 0.45 0.45 0.45 Glyceryl Stearate (and) 0.05 0.05 0.05 0.05
PEG-100 Stearate Argan Oil 0.75 0.75 0.75 0.8 Dimethyl Stearamide
0.25 0.25 0.25 0.25 Behentrimonium Methosulfate 0.20 0.20 0.20 0.20
(and) Cetearyl Alcohol Cetyl Alcohol 0.13 0.13 0.13 0.13 Hydrolyzed
Keratin 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 Cyclomethicone 12.5 12.5 15 15
Perfluorononyl Dimethicone 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 Cetyl Dimethicone 0.25
0.25 0.25 0.25 Fragrance 1 1 1 1 Silantrol (and) Panthenol 2 2 2 2
Preservative 0.05 0.05 0.05 0.05 Glyoxylic Acid (50% aqueous) -- --
-- 30 Proliss 100 (50% aqueous) 35 40 40 -- Deionized Water to 100%
q.s. q.s. q.s. q.s. pH 1.5 1.5 1.5 1.5
Example 13
Hair Straightening
[0105] This example illustrates the enhanced hair straightening
achieved using the Alkaline Composition of Example 5H containing
about 0.25 active weight percent sodium hydroxide and the Acidic
Compositions of Examples 8AG, 12AI and 12AJ varying respectively in
concentration of glyoxylic amide in the range of about 15, about 18
and about 20 active weight percent (Studies A, B, C).
Study A.
[0106] Two subjects, one having Type 3A hair and the other having
Type 2B hair, received enhanced hair straightening using a
half-head comparison in salon studies as described below.
[0107] Half-head studies were performed by following the procedure
of the hair straightening Method described in section II above,
except that the hair was not water rinsed in step 4, so at the end
of the 30 minute contact time, the hair was substantially dried as
described in step 5 under the hooded dryer. The hair was then
center parted from the front to the back of the head for the
following half-head comparison.
[0108] On the subject having Type 3A hair, the Acidic Composition
of Example 8AG was applied to the hair on one side and the Acidic
Composition of Example 12AI was applied to the hair on the opposite
side. On the subject having Type 2B hair, the Acidic Composition of
Example 8AG was applied to the hair on one side and the Acidic
Composition of Example 12AJ was applied to the hair on the opposite
side.
[0109] After about 30 minutes, the hair was blow-dried, pressed
with the Flat iron, and water rinsed as described in steps 9-13 and
then evaluated for total hair straightening. Step 14 was omitted
and the hair was then blow-dried using the fingers and flat ironed
using large partings for final styling. The hair was then
subjectively evaluated for feel and shine attributes.
[0110] On the Type 3A hair, the overall straightening achieved with
the Alkaline Composition of Example 5H was judged to be about 36%
and the hair on the side straightened with the Acidic Composition
of Example 12AI was judged slightly straighter than hair
straightened with the Acidic Composition of Example 8AG. On the
Type 2B hair, the overall straightening achieved with the Alkaline
Composition of Example 5H was judged to be about 12% and the hair
on the side straightened with the Acidic Composition of Example
12AJ was judged slightly straighter than the hair straightened with
the Acidic Composition of Example 12AJ. Overall, the straightening
of both types of hair was judged to be enhanced to about 56%, based
on the appearance of the wet hair and enhanced to about 95-98%,
based on the appearance of the dry hair.
Study B.
[0111] Similar half-head studies were made as in Study A repeating
the same general hair straightening procedure on two subjects, one
having Type 2B hair and one having Type 3A hair, except that the
water rinse in step 4 was carried out, and the Acidic Composition
of Example 12AK was compared to the Acidic Composition of Example
8AG.
[0112] On the Type 2B hair, the overall straightening achieved with
the Alkaline Composition of Example 5H was judged to be about 34%
and the hair on the side straightened with the Acidic Composition
of Example 12AK was judged slightly straighter than the hair
straightened with the Acidic Composition of Example 8AG. On the
Type 3A hair, the overall straightening achieved with the Alkaline
Composition of Example 5H was judged to be about 62% and the hair
on the side straightened with the Acidic Composition of Example
12AK was judged slightly straighter than hair straightened with the
Acidic Composition of Example 8AG. Overall, the straightening of
both types of hair was judged to be substantially enhanced to about
98-99%, based on the appearance of the hair, wet or dry.
Study C.
[0113] The half-head procedure of Study B was repeated on one
subject having Type 2B hair, except that Acidic Composition of
Example 8AG was compared against the Acidic Composition of Example
8AM (containing about 18.75 active weight percent glyoxylamide).
The hair straightening and efficacy was judged equivalent.
[0114] Overall, the results showed that the enhanced hair
straightening increased slightly more by increasing the
glyoxylamide concentration of the Acidic Composition from about 15%
to about 18%, but surprisingly, the efficacy achieved with a
gloxylamide content of about 18% was judged equivalent to that
achieved at glyoxylamide concentrations of about 18.75%.
Example 14
Hair Straightening
[0115] This example illustrates the enhanced hair straightening
achieved using the Alkaline Composition of Example 1B containing
about 0.5 active weight percent sodium hydroxide and the Acidic
Compositions of Examples 9AN and 8AM varying respectively in
concentration of glyoxylic amide in the range of about 17.5 about
18.75 active weight percent.
[0116] One subject having tightly curly hair (Type 3B) hair
received enhanced hair straightening using a half-head comparison
in a salon study. The procedure of Method II described above was
generally followed using the Alkaline Composition of Example 1B in
step 4, leaving it in contact with the hair for about 35 minutes to
partially straighten the tight curls. The half-head procedure of
step 6 was performed by applying the Acidic Composition of Example
9AN to the hair on one side and the Acidic Composition of Example
8AM to the hair on the opposite side.
[0117] Surprisingly, the hair on the side straightened with the
Acidic Composition of Example 9AN was judge slightly straighter
than the hair straightened with Acidic Composition of Example 8AM.
Thus, hair straightening efficacy achieved with a glyoxylamide
content of about 17.5% was judged slight greater than achieved with
a glyoxylamide concentration of about 18.75%.
[0118] The straightening achieved on this Type 3B hair with the
Alkaline Composition of Example 1B was judged to be about 52%.
Overall, the straightening of the hair by the Acidic Compositions
was judged to be enhanced to about 79%, based on the appearance of
the wet hair and enhanced to about 99%, based on the appearance of
the dry hair.
Example 15
Hair Straightening
[0119] This example illustrates the enhanced hair straightening
achieved using the Alkaline Composition of Example 5H containing
about 0.25 active weight percent sodium hydroxide and the Acidic
Compositions of Examples 9AQ, 9AR and 12AP varying respectively in
concentration of glyoxylic acid in the range of about 10, about
12.5 and about 15 active weight percent, and the Acidic
Compositions of Examples 8AG and 9AN, varying respectively in
concentration of glyoxylic amide in the range of about 15, and
about 17.5 active weight percent.
[0120] Three subjects received enhanced hair straightening using a
half-head studies (A, B, C) in salon studies generally following
the procedure of the hair straightening Method described in II
above, except that after step 13, the hair was lightly washed with
a commercial shampoo and conditioned for about 3 minutes. In
half-head study A, the Acidic Composition of Examples 9AQ was
applied to the hair on one side and the Acidic Composition of
Example 8AG was applied to the hair on the opposite side. In
half-head study B, the Acidic Composition of Example 9AQ was
applied to the hair on one side and the Acidic Composition of
Example 8AG was applied to the hair on the opposite side. In
half-head study C, the Acidic Composition of Example 9AN was
applied to the hair on one side and the Acidic Composition of
Example 12AP was applied to the hair on the opposite side. The hair
straightening achieved was assessed visually by professional
beauticians experienced in the art of hair straightening.
[0121] In each of the half-head studies, the straightened hair was
judged equally soft and silky on both sides. In half-head study A,
the straightening achieved was judged to be about 85% on both
sides; in the half-head study B, the straightening achieved was
judged to be about 85% on the side straightened with glyoxylic
amide and about 80% on the side straightened with glyoxylic acid;
and in half-head study C, the straightening achieved was judged to
be about 75% on both sides.
Example 16
Hair Straightening
[0122] This example illustrates the enhanced hair straightening
achieved using the Alkaline Composition of Example 5H containing
about 0.25 active weight percent sodium hydroxide and the Acidic
Composition of Example 8AG containing about 15 active weight
percent of glyoxylic amide on Type 2C hair that had been previously
colored and bleached. The general procedure of Method II was
followed, except that in step 12, the hair was water-rinsed for
about three minutes, then gently washed with shampoo, conditioned
with commercial hair conditioner for about three minutes and then
washed with water. The hair was judged very straight, very silky in
feel, and very shiny.
[0123] The tensile strength of the hair was analyzed by the
Intermittent Stress Relaxation Method (ISR) procedure described in
section I above. The ISR index of the straightened hair was 0.79
relative to that of the hair before straightening normalized to 1,
indicating a loss in elasticity of about 21%.
[0124] Similar hair straightening procedures as above were
performed on Type 2 hair that had been previously bleached and
colored, except that the alkaline compositions of Examples 2B, and
2E comprising triethanolamine as the chemical base and using the
alkaline compositions of Example 5D comprising sodium carbonate
were used.
[0125] Overall, the hair was judged to be significantly
straightened (more than about 75%), soft and silky in feel, and
very shiny.
Example 17
Hair Straightening
[0126] Hair that was classified as resistant Type 3B/3C was
successfully straightened by the hair straightening Method II using
the Alkaline Composition of Example 1A comprising about 1 active
weight percent sodium hydroxide for about 10 minutes in step 4, and
an Acidic Composition of Example 7U. The straightening achieved
with the Alkaline Composition was judged at about 22% and was
enhanced to about 87% by the Acidic Composition with an overall
straightening effect of about 97% when the hair was dry.
[0127] In a similar study on Type 3B/3C hair using the Alkaline
Composition of Example 1A for about 22 minutes in step 4, and an
Acidic Composition of Example 7Y. The straightening achieved with
the Alkaline Composition was judged at about 44% and was enhanced
to about 99% by the Acidic Composition overall.
[0128] Overall, the results show that the enhanced hair
straightening system of this invention can be used to effectively
remove substantially all the natural curl in the hair, especially
hair that is generally recognized as being resistant. Straightening
effects are achieved that are long lasting (at least 3 to 4
months), and the hair surprisingly retains desirable sensory and
aesthetic attributes of hair, such as strength, or soft, silky
feel, and high sheen.
[0129] The foregoing Examples are intended to be illustrative and
not limiting. Numerous variations and modifications may be effect
without departing from the true spirit and scope of the
invention.
* * * * *