U.S. patent application number 13/861896 was filed with the patent office on 2013-10-17 for shoe upper.
The applicant listed for this patent is ADIDAS AG. Invention is credited to Astrid Karin Lang, Stefan Tamm.
Application Number | 20130269209 13/861896 |
Document ID | / |
Family ID | 47998273 |
Filed Date | 2013-10-17 |
United States Patent
Application |
20130269209 |
Kind Code |
A1 |
Lang; Astrid Karin ; et
al. |
October 17, 2013 |
SHOE UPPER
Abstract
A shoe upper for a shoe, in particular a sports shoe, is
provided having a first portion and a second portion that are
jointly manufactured as a knitted fabric, wherein only one of the
first portion and the second portion the knitted fabric is
reinforced by a coating of a polymer material applied to the shoe
upper.
Inventors: |
Lang; Astrid Karin;
(Wilhermsdorf, DE) ; Tamm; Stefan;
(Herzogenenaurach, DE) |
|
Applicant: |
Name |
City |
State |
Country |
Type |
ADIDAS AG |
Herzogenaurach |
|
DE |
|
|
Family ID: |
47998273 |
Appl. No.: |
13/861896 |
Filed: |
April 12, 2013 |
Current U.S.
Class: |
36/45 ;
12/146C |
Current CPC
Class: |
D10B 2403/0114 20130101;
D10B 2403/0112 20130101; D10B 2403/032 20130101; D04B 1/22
20130101; D10B 2501/061 20130101; D10B 2401/041 20130101; A43B
23/0235 20130101; D04B 1/16 20130101; D10B 2501/043 20130101; D10B
2403/02 20130101; A43B 1/04 20130101; A43B 23/025 20130101; A43B
23/0205 20130101; A43B 23/026 20130101; A43B 23/0265 20130101 |
Class at
Publication: |
36/45 ;
12/146.C |
International
Class: |
A43B 23/02 20060101
A43B023/02 |
Foreign Application Data
Date |
Code |
Application Number |
Apr 13, 2012 |
DE |
102012206062.6 |
Mar 27, 2013 |
EP |
13161357.2 |
Claims
1. A shoe upper for a shoe comprising: a first portion and a second
portion which are jointly manufactured as a knitted fabric; wherein
only one of the first portion and the second portion of the knitted
fabric is reinforced by a coating of a polymer material applied to
the shoe upper.
2. The shoe upper according to claim 1, wherein the knitted fabric
is weft-knitted.
3. The shoe upper according to claim 1, wherein yarns of the
knitted fabric are positioned by the coating of the polymer
material applied to the shoe upper.
4. The shoe upper according to claim 1, wherein the polymer
material comprises fibers or pigments.
5. The shoe upper according to claim 1, wherein the polymer
material is applied to the inside of the shoe upper.
6. The shoe upper according to claim 1, wherein the polymer
material is applied in at least one layer with a thickness of about
0.2-1 mm.
7. The shoe upper according to claim 1, wherein the polymer
material is applied in several layers.
8. The shoe upper according to claim 7, wherein at least two layers
have different thicknesses.
9. The shoe upper according to claim 1, wherein at least one of the
first portion and the second portion of the knitted fabric
comprises a first textile layer and a second textile layer, wherein
the first textile layer comprises a yarn, and wherein the second
textile layer comprises a monofilament.
10. The shoe upper according to claim 9, wherein the knitted fabric
further comprises a fuse yarn comprising a thermoplastic
material.
11. The shoe upper according to claim 10, wherein the fuse yarn is
arranged between the first textile layer and the second textile
layer.
12. The shoe upper according to claim 1, wherein the polymer
material comprises a non-woven polymer material.
13. A method of manufacture of a shoe upper for a shoe, in
particular a sports shoe, wherein the shoe upper comprises a first
portion and a second portion which are jointly manufactured as a
knitted fabric, comprising the step of: applying a polymer material
as a coating in only one of the first portion and the second
portion of the shoe upper.
14. The method of manufacture of a shoe upper according to claim
13, wherein the polymer material is applied by dipping the knitted
fabric at least in part into a polymer solution.
15. The method of manufacture of a shoe upper according to claim
13, wherein the polymer material comprises a non-woven polymer
material, and wherein the step of applying involves heat pressing
the non-woven polymer material onto the knitted fabric.
16. The method of manufacture of a shoe upper according to claim
13, wherein the knitted fabric comprises a first textile layer and
a second textile layer, wherein the first textile layer comprises a
yarn and wherein the second textile layer comprises a monofilament,
further comprising the steps of: applying the polymer material to
the second textile layer; and pressing the shoe upper under
pressure and temperature, wherein the polymer material melts and
then penetrates the second textile layer and substantially coats
portions of the first textile layer.
17. The method according to claim 13, wherein the polymer material
is applied to the inside of the shoe upper.
Description
CROSS REFERENCE TO RELATED APPLICATION
[0001] This application is related to and claims priority benefits
from German Patent Application No. DE 10 2012 206062.6, filed on
Apr. 13, 2012, entitled SHOE UPPER ("the '062 application"), and
European Patent Application No. 13161357.2, filed on Mar. 27, 2013,
entitled SHOE UPPER ("the '357 application"). The '062 and '357
applications are hereby incorporated herein in their entireties by
this reference.
FIELD OF THE INVENTION
[0002] The present invention relates to a shoe upper for a shoe, in
particular a sports shoe, comprising a knitted fabric, and to a
method of manufacture of such a shoe upper.
BACKGROUND
[0003] Conventional shoes essentially comprise two elements: a sole
and a shoe upper. Whereas a sole often consists of only one
material (e.g. rubber or leather) or of only a few materials,
various materials are often used in a shoe upper for different
parts of the foot, in order to provide different functions. As a
result, there are various individual parts. A typical shoe upper
for a sports shoe may comprise more than fifteen parts. During
manufacture, the assembly of these parts is particularly
time-consuming and often carried out by manual labor. Moreover,
such a manufacturing technique produces a large amount of
waste.
[0004] In order to reduce production efforts, it is therefore known
to knit a shoe upper in one piece. Knitting shoe uppers has the
advantage that they can be manufactured in one piece but may still
comprise various structures with a variety of characteristics.
Moreover, the one piece shoe upper is already manufactured in its
final shape and usually only requires to be closed in one section.
This approach does not produce any waste by the final shape being
cut out. Knitted shoe uppers are described in U.S. Pat. No.
2,147,197, U.S. Pat. No. 1,888,172, U.S. Pat. No. 5,345,638, and WO
90/03744, for example.
[0005] U.S. Pat. No. 7,774,956 describes a shoe upper with zones of
multiple properties (e.g. stretchability) by using different yarns
and/or stitch patterns. Additionally, pockets, tunnels, or layered
structures are manufactured by knitting. US 2011/0078921 describes
a shoe upper in which various elements, such as e.g. the tongue or
the upper edge of the heel, are manufactured by knitting.
[0006] In contrast to woven textile materials or other less elastic
materials, a knitted shoe upper has considerably greater
stretchability, owing to the textile structure created by
intertwined stitches. It may therefore be desirable to reduce the
stretchability of the knitted material for use as a shoe upper.
U.S. Pat. No. 2,314,098 describes a shoe upper, certain portions of
which are stiffened by the use of yarns for the textile material
that contain synthetic filaments, which are heat treated so that
the textile material melts and subsequently solidifies. US
2010/0154256 describes a thermoplastic yarn that is melted in
different regions. The use of thermoplastic yarns for knitting shoe
uppers and subsequent thermal treatment for altering the properties
of the material or for shaping are described in U.S. Pat. No.
2,314,098, U.S. Pat. No. 2,641,004, U.S. Pat. No. 2,440,393, and US
2010/0154256.
[0007] Reduced stretching of a knitted shoe upper by applied
structures is described in U.S. Pat. No. 7,637,032, U.S. Pat. No.
7,347,011, and U.S. Pat. No. 6,931,762. In U.S. Pat. No. 4,785,558,
a shoe upper consists of an outer knit fabric layer and an inner
knit fabric layer connected by a synthetic monofilament in order to
achieve suitable elasticity and air permeability.
[0008] U.S. Pat. No. 7,047,668 and U.S. Pat. No. 4,447,967 describe
shoe uppers with a polymeric outer layer manufactured in a mold and
an inner layer formed of a textile material. In DE 10 2009 028 627,
a shoe upper is reinforced by reinforcement ribs on the inside.
[0009] However, the previous solutions for limiting the
stretchability of knitted shoe uppers have disadvantages. The use
of thermoplastic materials alters the appearance of the knitted
textile material and limits design options. The use of additionally
applied structures also alters the appearance of the knitted
textile material, since they are applied to the outside of the shoe
upper. Moreover, the number of parts of the shoe upper and thus the
manufacturing effort is increased. Applying them on the inside
might cause pressure sores at the foot leading to a limitation of
the design of the outside of the shoe upper. The shape of the
applied structures also reduces stretchability only in certain
directions.
[0010] In view of the prior art, it is therefore an object of the
present invention to provide a shoe upper with knitted fabric,
which overcomes the described disadvantages and which effectively
limits the stretchability of the knitted fabric without the outer
appearance of the knitted fabric being adversely affected.
SUMMARY
[0011] The terms "invention," "the invention," "this invention" and
"the present invention" used in this patent are intended to refer
broadly to all of the subject matter of this patent and the patent
claims below. Statements containing these terms should be
understood not to limit the subject matter described herein or to
limit the meaning or scope of the patent claims below. Embodiments
of the invention covered by this patent are defined by the claims
below, not this summary. This summary is a high-level overview of
various aspects of the invention and introduces some of the
concepts that are further described in the Detailed Description
section below. This summary is not intended to identify key or
essential features of the claimed subject matter, nor is it
intended to be used in isolation to determine the scope of the
claimed subject matter. The subject matter should be understood by
reference to appropriate portions of the entire specification of
this patent, any or all drawings and each claim.
[0012] According to a first aspect, this problem is solved by a
shoe upper for a shoe, in particular a sports shoe in accordance
with claim 1. The shoe upper comprises a first portion and a second
portion, which are jointly manufactured as a knitted fabric,
wherein only one of the portions is reinforced by a coating of a
polymer material applied to the shoe upper.
[0013] Due to the applied polymer coating, the stretchability of
the knitted fabric is specifically reduced in a portion without
affecting the outer appearance of the knitted fabric and without
limiting the design options of the knitted fabric. Thus, the
structure of the knitted fabric does not have to be altered in
order to achieve its advantages such as increased air permeability.
At the same time, the stretchability of the knitted fabric is
effectively reduced in any desired directions of movement. The
polymer coating furthermore increases the stiffness and stability
of the knitted fabric.
[0014] In further embodiments, the knitted fabric is weft-knitted
or warp-knitted. Flat knitted fabric has the advantage that the
outline of the shoe upper is manufactured directly, without having
to subsequently cut out the knitted fabric and to process it
further at the edges.
[0015] According to some embodiments, the coating of a polymer
material is applied to the inside of the shoe upper. Thus, the
outer appearance of the knitted fabric remains unaffected by the
polymer layer.
[0016] The polymer material may be applied to the shoe upper in a
liquid state. In some embodiments, the polymer material has a
viscosity in the range of about 15-80 Pas at about 90-150.degree.
C., and may further have a viscosity in the range of about 15-50
Pas at about 110-150.degree. C. Further, the applied polymer
material may have a hardness in the range of about 40-60 shore D.
These values provide the necessary reduction of stretchability of
the knitted fabric but maintain the required elasticity of the
knitted fabric.
[0017] The polymer material may be applied in layers with a
thickness of about 0.2-1 mm. The polymer material may also be
applied in several layers, e.g. on top of each other or in an
overlapping fashion. Thus, the polymer material can be sprayed on
and adjusted to the respective requirements on the overall
thickness of the polymer material. In this regard, several layers,
e.g. at least two layers, may have different thicknesses. There may
be continuous transitions between areas of different thicknesses,
in which the thickness of the polymer material continuously
increases or decreases, respectively. In the same manner, two
different polymer materials may be used in different areas in order
to achieve desired properties.
[0018] The portion that is reinforced with the polymer material may
be arranged in the toe area, the heel area, in the area of the
tongue, on a lateral side in the midfoot area and/or on a medial
side in the midfoot area of the shoe upper. Reducing stretching of
the knitted fabric by a polymer material is particularly desirable
in these areas. Further reinforced areas may be the area of the
eyelets, the area of the sole or the ankles (if the shoes are
sufficiently high).
[0019] According to certain embodiments, the first and/or the
second portion of the knitted fabric comprises a first textile
layer and a second textile layer, wherein the first textile layer
comprises a yarn, and wherein the second textile layer comprises a
monofilament. It is preferable for the portion coated with the
polymer material to comprise the first textile layer and the second
textile layer. It is also preferable for the second textile layer
to be coated with the polymer material, i.e. the polymer material
is arranged on the second textile layer. In other embodiments, it
may be preferable that the portion comprising the first textile
layer and the second textile layer is arranged in the area of the
toes, the midfoot, the heel and/or the eyelets of the shoe
upper.
[0020] In certain embodiments, the knitted textile furthermore
comprises a fuse yarn comprising a thermoplastic material. The fuse
yarn may be arranged (e.g. knitted into) in the first textile layer
and/or the second textile layer. Furthermore, the fuse yarn may be
arranged between the first textile layer and the second textile
layer (e.g. placed between the layers). Upon applying pressure and
temperature, the fuse yarn fuses with the knitted material and
reinforces the knitted fabric. In doing so, the arrangement of the
fuse yarn between the first textile layer and the second textile
layer has the advantage that the mould does not get dirty during
pressing. In certain embodiments, the material should not be in
direct contact with the mould.
[0021] In certain embodiments, the first textile layer and the
second textile layer are connected by weft-knitting or by
warp-knitting. Thus, the monofilament, which is less elastic, can
effectively reduce stretching of the more elastic yarn. This
reduces stretching of the knitted fabric, wherein every single
stitch is limited in stretching.
[0022] A further aspect of the invention is a shoe upper for a
shoe, in particular a sports shoe with a least one portion
comprising a weft-knitted fabric. The weft-knitted fabric comprises
a first weft-knitted layer of a yarn and a second weft-knitted
layer of a monofilament. The second weft-knitted layer and the
first weft-knitted layer are connected such that the stretching of
the first weft-knitted layer is reduced by the second weft-knitted
layer.
[0023] The second weft-knitted layer may be only connected to the
first weft-knitted layer. The second textile layer may be knitted
into the first textile layer, i.e. the first and second textile
layers may be interknitted. As a result, stretching of the first
weft-knitted layer can be effectively reduced by the second
weft-knitted layer, since the monofilaments of the second
weft-knitted layer are not elastically deformable. While the second
textile layer of a monofilament is indeed stretchable due to its
stitches, it is considerably less than the first textile layer of
yarn.
[0024] Preferably, the first textile layer comprises apertures for
ventilation. Further, the second textile layer may comprise larger
stitches than the first textile layer.
[0025] Further aspects of the invention include a method of
manufacture of a shoe upper for a shoe, in particular a sports
shoe, wherein the shoe upper comprises a first portion and a second
portion that are jointly manufactured as knitted fabric. The method
comprises a step of applying a polymer layer as a coating in only
one of the two portions of the shoe upper.
[0026] The method may further comprise a step of pressing the
polymer coated portion of the shoe upper under pressure and heat.
The polymer melts due to pressure and heat and fuses with the yarn.
Thus, the stiffness of the knitted fabric is increased and its
stretching is decreased in the coated portion.
[0027] The polymer coating may be sprayed on, applied with a
scraper or coating knife or by laying on. By means of such method
steps the polymer material can be applied to the portion to be
coated with particular ease.
[0028] In other embodiments, the knitted fabric comprises a first
textile layer and a second textile layer, wherein the first textile
layer comprises a yarn, and wherein the second textile layer
comprises a monofilament. In this regard, the method further
comprises the steps of applying the polymer material to the second
textile layer and subjecting the shoe upper to pressure and heat,
wherein the polymer material melts and penetrates the second
textile layer, thus essentially coating the first textile layer. In
the second step, the polymer material essentially connects to the
fibers of the first textile layer, thus reinforcing the first
textile layer. During this process, stitches are positioned
relative to each other, either at their points of intersection or
by the entire stitch being surrounded by the polymer and thus
positioned or otherwise secured.
[0029] In further embodiments, an additional step of the method is
compression-molding the coated textile material. By
compression-molding the coated textile material the shoe upper can
be provided with a certain shape in certain areas, e.g. a curved
shape in the area of the heel or the toes. The shape of the shoe
upper can either be adjusted to the last or to the foot itself.
[0030] In this regard, the yarn of the first textile layer and the
monofilament of the second textile layer may comprise a higher
melting point than the polymer material. Thus, it is possible that
only the polymer material melts at suitable temperatures and fuses
with the yarn of the first textile layer, without the yarn and the
monofilament being destroyed or damaged.
[0031] In some embodiments, the yarn of the first textile layer
comprises a fuse yarn, which comprises a thermoplastic material.
Thus, the fuse yarn can fuse with the yarn and reinforce it when
subjected to heat and pressure. Therein, it may be desirable for
the monofilament and the yarn to comprise a higher melting point
than the fuse yarn so that only the fuse yarn melts at suitably
selected temperatures during pressing. In this regard, it may also
be desirable that the monofilament and the yarn comprise a higher
melting point than the thermoplastic material of the fuse yarn.
[0032] Further embodiments are described in further dependent
patent claims.
BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS
[0033] In the following detailed description, embodiments of the
invention are described referring to the following figures:
[0034] FIG. 1 is a schematic representation of textile
structures.
[0035] FIG. 2 is an overview of types of knitted fabrics.
[0036] FIG. 3 are cross-sectional views of fibers for yarns that
are used in a shoe upper according to certain embodiments of the
present invention.
[0037] FIG. 4 are front and back views for a weft-knitted fabric
according to certain embodiments of the present invention.
[0038] FIG. 5 is a schematic representation of a shoe upper
according to certain embodiments of the present invention.
[0039] FIG. 6 is a close-up view of a weft-knitted fabric with two
layers according to certain embodiments of the present
invention.
[0040] FIG. 7 is a side perspective view of a heel area and a shoe
collar of a shoe upper according to certain embodiments of the
present invention.
[0041] FIG. 8 are top and bottom views of a shoe upper according to
certain embodiments of the present invention and a shoe with this
shoe upper.
[0042] FIG. 9 is a top view of a shoe upper according to certain
embodiments of the present invention and a shoe with this shoe
upper.
[0043] FIG. 10 are views of a three-dimensional molding of a shoe
upper according to certain embodiments of the present
invention.
DETAILED DESCRIPTION
[0044] The subject matter of embodiments of the present invention
is described here with specificity to meet statutory requirements,
but this description is not necessarily intended to limit the scope
of the claims. The claimed subject matter may be embodied in other
ways, may include different elements or steps, and may be used in
conjunction with other existing or future technologies. This
description should not be interpreted as implying any particular
order or arrangement among or between various steps or elements
except when the order of individual steps or arrangement of
elements is explicitly described.
[0045] In the following, embodiments and variations of the present
invention are described in more detail referring to a shoe upper
for a shoe, in particular a sports shoe. However, the present
invention can also be used otherwise, e.g. for clothing or
accessories where supporting functions, stiffening, increased
abrasion resistance, elimination of stretchability, increased
comfort and precise fit to prescribed geometries are required.
[0046] The use of the weft-knitting technique enables a shoe upper
to comprise areas with different characteristics, while it still
can be manufactured in one single operation. The various
characteristics or functions of the areas include stiffness,
stability and comfort, for example. Various techniques are used in
order to achieve such characteristics or functions, which will be
described in the following. The described techniques include
suitable knitting techniques (e.g. Jacquard, inlaid works and/or
gusset technique), the selection of fibers and yarns, the coating
of the textile material with a polymer, the use of monofilaments,
the combination of monofilaments and polymer coating, the
application of fuse yarns and multi-layer textile material. These
and other techniques will be explained in the following, before
embodiments of shoe uppers will be described that apply these
techniques.
5.1 Textile Material
[0047] As shown in FIG. 1, a woven textile material 10 is of lesser
complexity than a weft-knitted textile material 11, 12 or
warp-knitted textile material 13. Weft-knitted and warp-knitted
textile materials are also referred to as knitted fabrics. The
essential characteristic of knitted fabric is that it is
manufactured from yarns that are looped to form so-called
stitches.
[0048] Knitted fabrics constitute the majority of textile materials
used for shoes. An essential advantage of knitted fabric over woven
textiles is the variety of structures and surfaces that can be
created with it. Using essentially the same manufacturing
technique, it is possible to manufacture both very heavy and stiff
materials and very soft, transparent and stretchable materials. The
properties of the material can be influenced by the weft-knitting
pattern, the yarn, and the needle size.
[0049] Weft-knitted textile materials are currently used for the
manufacture of shoe uppers only to a limited extent, particularly
for shoe lining. Textile materials of shoe uppers and the majority
of shoe lining materials are mainly warp-knitted textile
materials.
[0050] Weft-knitted textile materials 11, 12 are created by
knitting with one thread from the left to the right. View 11 shows
a front view and view 12 shows a back view of a weft-knitted
material. In contrast, warp-knitted textile materials 13 are
created by warp-knitting with many threads from the top to the
bottom. The further classification of warp-knit goods and weft-knit
goods is illustrated in FIG. 2. The advantages of weft-knitting
over warp-knitting are essentially the greater variability of
stitch structures in terms of combinations and weft-knitting
patterns that can be used in weft-knitting machines. In particular,
it is possible to create individual zones of different structures
with weft-knitting. By contrast, in case of warp-knitting, the
entire product has to comprise the same structure. In addition,
there is the possibility of functional weft-knitting (i.e.
functional knitted fabrics can be created by selecting the type of
weft-knitting or the yarn) and the possibility of giving the
weft-knitted textile material a certain shape, i.e. an outline.
This is impossible with warp-knitting.
[0051] The manufacture of the final shape or outline is possible by
flat knitting. To this end, a three-dimensional shape of the shoe
upper has to be created by closing a seam. Creating a final outline
is not possible in circular knitting. Here, it is necessary to cut
out the final shape from the knitted material and to provide it
with a seam along the edge.
[0052] Thus, the weft-knitting technique allows manufacturing of
textile materials with different functional areas and
simultaneously maintaining their outlines. As a result, it is
possible to manufacture shoe uppers in one operation by means of
the weft-knitting technique, as illustrated in FIGS. 5 and 7-9.
[0053] The structures of a weft-knitted material can be adjusted to
functional requirements in certain areas, by weft-knitting
patterns, the yarn or the needle size being selected accordingly.
It is possible, for example, to include structures with large
stitches or apertures within the weft-knitted textile material in
areas where ventilation is desired. By contrast, in areas where
support and stability are desired, fine-meshed weft-knitting
patterns, stiffer yarns or even multi-layered weft-knitting
structures can be used, which will be described in the following.
The thickness of the weft-knitted textile material is equally
variable.
5.2 Fibers
[0054] Fibers are usually of a rather short length and are spun or
twisted into threads or yarns. However, fibers can also be long and
twirled into a yarn. Fibers may consist of natural or synthetic
materials. Natural fibers include cotton, wool, alpaca, hemp,
coconut fibers or silk. Among the synthetic fibers are
polymer-based fibers such as nylon, polyester, Spandex or Kevlar,
which can be produced as classic fibers or as high-performance or
technical fibers.
[0055] The mechanical and physical properties of a fiber and the
yarn manufactured therefrom are also determined by the fiber's
cross-section, as illustrated in FIG. 3. The different
cross-sections, their properties, and examples of materials having
such cross-sections will be explained in the following.
[0056] A fiber having the circular cross-section 310 can either be
solid or hollow. A solid fiber is the most frequent type; it allows
easy bending and is soft to the touch. A fiber as a hollow circle
with the same weight/length ratio as the solid fiber has a larger
cross-section and is more resistant to bending, since deformations
occur during bending. Examples of fibers with a circular
cross-section are nylon, polyester, and Lyocell.
[0057] A fiber having the bone-shaped cross-section 330 has the
property of wicking moisture. Examples of such fibers are acrylic
or spandex. The concave areas in the middle of the fiber support
moisture being passed on in the longitudinal direction, whereby
moisture is rapidly wicked from a certain place and
distributed.
[0058] The following further cross-sections are illustrated in FIG.
3: [0059] Polygonal cross-section 311, hollow; example: flax;
[0060] Oval to round cross-section 312 with overlapping sections;
example: wool; [0061] Flat, oval cross-section with expansion and
convolution 313; example: cotton; [0062] Circular, serrated
cross-section with partial striations 314; example: rayon; [0063]
Lima bean cross-section 320; smooth surface; [0064] Serrated lima
bean cross-section 321, example: Avril rayon; [0065] Triangular
cross-section with rounded edges 322; example: silk; [0066]
Trilobal star cross-section 323; like triangular fiber with shinier
appearance; [0067] Clubbed cross-section 324 with partial
striations; sparkling appearance; example: acetate; [0068] Flat and
broad cross-section 331; example: acetate; [0069] Star-shaped or
concertina cross section 332; [0070] Cross-section in the shape of
a collapsed tube with a hollow center 333; and [0071] Square
cross-section with voids 334; example: Anso IV.RTM. nylon.
[0072] Individual fibers with their properties that are relevant
for the manufacture of shoe uppers will be described in the
following: [0073] Aramid fibers: good resistance to abrasion and
organic solvents; non-conductive; temperature-resistant up to
500.degree. C.; low flammability; sensitive to acids, salts and UV
radiation. [0074] Para-aramid fibers: known under trade names
Kevlar.RTM., Technora.RTM., and Twaron.RTM.; outstanding
strength-to-weight properties; high Young's modulus and high
tensile strength (higher than with meta-aramides); low stretching
and low elongation at break (approx. 3.5%); difficult to dye.
[0075] Meta-aramides: known under trade names Nomex.RTM.,
Teijinconex.RTM., NewStar.RTM., X-Fiper.TM.. [0076] Dyneema.RTM.
fibers: highest impact strength of any known thermoplastics; highly
resistant to corrosive chemicals, with exception of oxidizing
acids; extremely low moisture absorption; very low coefficient of
friction, which is significantly lower than that of nylon and
acetate and comparable to Teflon.RTM.; self-lubricating; highly
resistant to abrasion (15 times more resistant to abrasion than
carbon steel); better abrasion resistance than Teflon.RTM.;
odorless; tasteless; nontoxic. [0077] Carbon fiber: an extremely
thin fiber about 0.005-0.010 mm in diameter, composed essentially
of carbon atoms; highly stable with regard to size; one yarn is
formed from several thousand carbon fibers; high tensile strength;
low weight; low thermal expansion; relatively expensive when
compared to similar materials such as fiberglass or plastic; very
strong when stretched or bent; weak when compressed or exposed to
high shock so that it will crack easily if hit with a hammer;
thermal conductivity; and electric conductivity, so that it is
difficult to manufacture textile materials in rooms with electronic
devices. [0078] Glass fiber: high surface to weight ratio, whereas
the increased surface makes the glass fiber susceptible to chemical
attack; by trapping air within them, blocks of glass fibers provide
good thermal insulation; thermal conductivity of 0.05
W/(m.times.K); the thinnest fibers are the strongest because the
thinner fibers are more ductile; the properties of the glass fibers
are the same along the fiber and across its cross-section, since
glass has an amorphous structure; moisture accumulates easily,
which can worsen microscopic cracks and surface defects and lessen
tensile strength; correlation between bending diameter of the fiber
and the fiber diameter; thermal, electrical and sound insulation;
higher stretching before it breaks than carbon fibers.
5.3 Yarns
[0079] The following yarns can be applied for textile materials for
shoe uppers:
[0080] Functional yarns are capable of transporting moisture and
thus of absorbing sweat and moisture. They can be electrically
conducting, self-cleaning, thermally regulating and insulating,
flame resistant, and UV-absorbing, and may enable infrared
remission. They may be suitable for sensors.
[0081] Stainless steel yarn contains fibers made of a blend of
nylon or polyester and steel. Its properties include high abrasion
resistance, higher cut resistance, high thermal abrasion, high
thermal and electrical conductivity, higher tensile strength and
high weight. Stainless steel yarn is only available in grey steel
colors to date.
[0082] Electrically conducting yarns for the integration of
electronic devices in textile materials.
[0083] Fuse yarns (see also section 5.7) are a mixture of a
thermoplastic yarn and polyester or nylon. There are essentially
three types of fuse yarn: a thermoplastic yarn surrounded by a
non-thermoplastic yarn; a non-thermoplastic yarn surrounded by
thermoplastic yarn; and pure fuse yarn of a thermoplastic material.
After being heated to the melting temperature, the thermoplastic
yarn fuses with the non-thermoplastic yarn (e.g. polyester or
nylon), stiffening the textile material. The melting temperature of
the thermoplastic yarn is defined accordingly.
[0084] A shrinking yarn is a dual-component yarn. The outer
component is a shrinking material, which shrinks when a defined
temperature is exceeded. The inner component is a non-shrinking
yarn, such as polyester or nylon. Shrinking increases the stiffness
of the textile material.
[0085] Further yarns for application in shoe uppers are luminescent
or reflecting yarns.
5.4 Polymer Coating
[0086] Due to their structure with loops/stitches, weft-knitted or
warp-knitted textile materials are considerably more flexible and
stretchable than woven textile materials. For certain applications
and requirements, e.g. in certain areas of a shoe upper, it is
therefore necessary to reduce flexibility and stretchability in
order to achieve sufficient stability.
[0087] For this purpose, a polymer coating may be applied to one
side or both sides of knitted fabrics (weft-knit or warp-knit
goods), but generally also to other textile materials. Such a
polymer coating causes a reinforcement and/or stiffening of the
textile material. In a shoe upper, it can serve the purpose of
supporting and/or stiffening in the area of the toes, in the area
of the heel, or in other areas, for example. Furthermore, the
elasticity of the textile material and particularly the
stretchability are reduced. Moreover, the polymer coating protects
the textile material against abrasion. Furthermore, it is possible
to give the textile material a three-dimensional shape by means of
the polymer coating using compression-molding.
[0088] In a first step of polymer coating, the polymer material is
applied to one side of the textile material. However, it can also
be applied to both sides. The material can be applied by spraying
on, coating with a scraper or coating knife, laying on, printing
on, sintering, spreading, or by applying a polymer bead. An
important method of applying is spraying on, which may be
automatically performed. This can be carried out by a tool similar
to a hot glue gun. Spraying on enables the polymer material to be
evenly applied in thin layers. Moreover, spraying on is a fast
method.
[0089] In various embodiments, the polymer spray on process may be
automated. Preferably, the polymer material may be sprayed on in an
automated process with a robot. The design of the polymer coating,
e.g. its thickness and its two-dimensional or three-dimensional
profile, may be controlled by suitably programming the robot. Thus,
the spray on process may be carried out fast and reproducibly, and
the design of the polymer coating can be flexibly varied as well as
precisely controlled.
[0090] In further embodiments, the polymer material is applied by
dipping the textile material in a polymer solution comprising
polymer particles and water. The textile material may be completely
dipped into the polymer solution, and the solution soaks through
the textile material. Alternatively, only one surface of the
textile material may be dipped or partly dipped into the solution
at a time. In that case, the polymer solution may partially soak
through the textile material, wherein the extent of soaking through
may be controlled by the duration of the dipping process. In some
embodiments, a further surface of the textile material, e.g. the
opposite surface of the previously dipped-in surface, may be dipped
or partly dipped into the same or into a different polymer solution
having different properties such as different color pigments,
different fibers, etc. Thus, the same or different polymer
solution(s) may also partially soak through the textile material
from further surfaces.
[0091] After the one or more dipping steps, excess polymer may be
squeezed out of the textile material, e.g. with a roller,
particularly in cases where the polymer solution was made to soak
through the textile material. Subsequently, the textile material
with soaked-in polymer is dried with heat.
[0092] In some embodiments, the polymer is applied by means of a
"Foulard" technique: After dipping the textile material into a
polymer solution and squeezing out excess polymer e.g. with a
roller, as described above, the textile material is dried with heat
such that the polymer infiltrates and/or coats the yarn of the
textile material.
[0093] In other embodiments, the polymer is applied by means of a
"thermosetting" technique: After the aforementioned dipping and
squeezing out steps, the textile material is stretched out.
Subsequently, a heat setting process is carried out.
[0094] In various embodiments, the polymer is applied in at least
one layer with a thickness of about 0.2-1 mm. It can be applied in
one or several layers, whereby the layers can be of different
thicknesses. There can be continuous transitions from thinner areas
to thicker areas between neighboring areas of different
thicknesses. In the same manner, different polymer materials may be
used in different areas, as will be described in the following.
[0095] During application, polymer material attaches itself to the
points of contact or points of intersection, respectively, of the
yarns of the textile material, on the one hand, and to the gaps
between the yarns, on the other hand, forming a closed polymer
surface on the textile material after the processing steps
described in the following. However, in case of larger mesh
openings or holes in the textile structure, this closed polymer
surface may also be intermittent, e.g. so as to enable ventilation.
This also depends on the thickness of the applied material: The
thinner the polymer material is applied, the easier it is for the
closed polymer surface to be intermittent. Moreover, the polymer
material may also penetrate the yarn and soak it, thus contributing
to its stiffening.
[0096] After application of the polymer material, the textile
material is subjected to heat and pressure. The polymer material
liquefies in this step and fuses with the yarn of the textile
material.
[0097] In a further optional step, the textile material may be
pressed into a three-dimensional shape in a machine for
compression-molding. For example, the area of the heel or the area
of the toes can be three-dimensionally shaped over a last.
Alternatively, the textile material may also be directly fitted to
a foot.
[0098] After pressing and molding, the reaction time until complete
stiffening may be one to two days, depending on the type of polymer
material used.
[0099] The following polymer materials may be used: polyester;
polyester-urethane pre-polymer; acrylate; acetate; reactive
polyolefins; co-polyester; polyamide; co-polyamide; reactive
systems (mainly polyurethane systems reactive with H.sub.2O or
O.sub.2); polyurethanes; thermoplastic polyurethanes; and polymeric
dispersions.
[0100] Further, the polymer material may comprise fibers and/or
pigments. Thus, the properties of the textile material may be
changed. In certain embodiments, the fibers change at least one
mechanical property, such as stability, stiffness, cut-resistance,
etc. provided by a polymer coating applied to a textile material.
In certain embodiments, carbon fibers are added to increase the
stability provided by a polymer coating. Further, para-aramid
fibers, e.g. Kevlar.RTM., may be added for increased cut
resistance. Additionally or alternatively, color pigments may be
added to create a desired color appearance of a polymer coating
irrespective of the specific polymer material used. The described
addition of fibers or pigments does not affect the manufacturing
process. Fiber-reinforced polymer material with and without
pigments may be sprayed on or applied to the textile material in
any of the further ways, as described above. In particular, fibers
and pigments may be added to a polymer solution into which the
textile material is dipped.
[0101] In certain embodiments, a non-woven polymer material e.g. a
fleece is applied to the textile material. In these embodiments,
the non-woven polymer material may be applied to that surface of
the textile material that is to form the inner surface of an upper.
Thus, the inner surface of an upper may be manufactured in an
advantageous manner. In some embodiments, the non-woven polymer
material is applied to the surface of the textile material, which
forms the inner surface of an upper, and in addition may be applied
to the surface of the textile material forming the outer surface of
an upper. Therein, the non-woven polymer material may be applied in
the heel and/or toe area. Thus, a convenient feel at the inner
surface of an upper and a suitable stability in desired portions of
the upper may be provided in a manufacturing step based on a single
material.
[0102] In some embodiments, the non-woven polymer material is heat
pressed or ironed to the respective surface or area of the textile
material. According to certain embodiments, the polymer material
used has a melting temperature of about 160.degree. C.
[0103] The polymer material may comprise a viscosity of about 50-80
Pas at about 90-150.degree. C., and may further comprise a
viscosity of about 15-50 Pas at about 110-150.degree. C.
[0104] The hardened polymer material may comprise a hardness of
about 40-60 Shore D. Depending on the application, other ranges of
hardness are also conceivable.
[0105] The described polymer coating is meaningful wherever support
functions, stiffening, increased abrasion resistance, elimination
of stretchability, increased comfort and/or fitting to prescribed
three-dimensional geometries are desired. It is also conceivable to
fit a shoe upper to the individual shape of the foot of the person
wearing it, by polymer material being applied to the shoe upper and
then adapting it to the shape of the foot under heat.
5.5 Monofilaments for Reinforcement
[0106] Monofilaments are yarns consisting of one single filament,
that is, one single fiber. Therefore, the stretchability of
monofilaments is considerably lower than that of yarns that are
manufactured from many fibers. As a result also the stretchability
of knitted fabrics manufactured from monofilaments is reduced.
Monofilaments are typically made from polyamide. However, other
materials, such as polyester or other thermoplastic materials, are
also conceivable.
[0107] Thus, while a textile material made from a monofilament is
considerably more rigid and less stretchable, this material does,
however, not have the desired surface properties such as e.g.
smoothness, colors, transport of moisture, outer appearance and
variety of textile structures as usual textile materials have. This
disadvantage is overcome by the material described in the
following.
[0108] FIG. 4 depicts a weft-knitted textile material having a
weft-knitted layer made from yarn and a weft-knitted layer made
from the monofilament. The layer of monofilament is knitted into
the layer of yarn. The resulting two-layered material is
considerably more solid and less stretchable than the layer made
from yarn alone. If the monofilament is slightly melted, the
monofilament connects even better with the yarn.
[0109] FIG. 4 particularly depicts a front view 41 and a back view
42 of a two-layered material 40. Both views show a first
weft-knitted layer 43 made from a yarn and a second weft-knitted
layer 44 made from the monofilament. The first textile layer 43
made from a yarn is connected to the second layer 44 by stitches
45. Thus, the greater solidity and the reduced stretchability of
the second textile layer 44 made from the monofilament is
transferred to the first textile layer 43 made from the yarn.
[0110] The monofilament may also be slightly melted in order to
connect with the layer of yarn and to further limit any stretching.
The monofilament then fuses with the points of connection with the
yarn and fixes the yarn towards the layer made from the
monofilament.
5.6 Combination of Monofilaments and Polymer Coating
[0111] The weft-knitted material having two layers described in the
preceding section may additionally be reinforced by a polymer
coating as described in section 5.4. The polymer material is
applied to the weft-knitted layer made from monofilaments. It does
not connect to the polyamide material of the monofilaments, since
the monofilament has a smooth and round surface, but essentially
penetrates the underlying layer of yarn. During subsequent
pressing, the polymer material therefore fuses with the yarn of the
first layer and reinforces the first layer.
[0112] The polymer material has a lower melting point than the yarn
of the first layer and the monofilament of the second layer, and
the temperature during pressing is selected such that only the
polymer material melts.
5.7 Fuse Yarn
[0113] For reinforcement and for the reduction of stretching, the
yarn of a knitted fabric may also be supplemented with
thermoplastic material that fixes the knitted fabric after
pressing. There are essentially three types of fuse yarn: a
thermoplastic yarn surrounded by a non-thermoplastic yarn; a
non-thermoplastic yarn surrounded by a thermoplastic yarn; and a
pure fuse yarn of a thermoplastic material. In order to improve the
bond between the thermoplastic material and the yarn, the yarn's
surface is texturized. In certain embodiments, pressing takes place
at a temperature ranging from about 110 to 150.degree. C., and may
further take place at a temperature of about 130.degree. C. The
thermoplastic material melts at least partially in the process and
fuses with the yarn. After pressing, the knitted fabric is cooled
so that the bond is hardened and stabilized.
[0114] In certain embodiments, the fuse yarn is knitted into the
knitted fabric. In case of several layers, the fuse yarn may be
knitted into one, several, or all layers of the knitted fabric.
[0115] In other embodiments, the fuse yarn may be arranged between
two layers of a knitted fabric. In doing so, the fuse yarn may
simply be placed between the layers. An arrangement between the
layers has the advantage that the mold is not contaminated during
pressing and molding, since there is no direct contact between the
fuse yarn and the mold.
5.8 Further Techniques
[0116] Various techniques will be described in the following, which
may be relevant to the manufacture of a shoe upper made from
knitted fabric (weft-knitted).
[0117] A textile material having more than one layer provides
further possible constructions for the textile material, which
provide many advantages. Several layers fundamentally increase
solidness and stability of the textile material. In this regard,
the resulting solidity depends on the extent to which, and the
techniques by which, the layers are connected to each other. The
same material or different materials may be used for the individual
layers. A weft-knitted textile material having a weft-knitted layer
made from yarn and a weft-knitted layer made from monofilament
whose stitches are enmeshed was previously described in section
5.5. In particular, the stretchability of the weft-knitted layer is
reduced due to the combination of different materials. It is an
advantageous alternative of this construction to arrange a layer
made from monofilament between two layers made from yarn in order
to reduce stretchability and to increase solidity of the material.
A comfortable surface made from yarn is obtained on both sides of
the textile material in this way, in contrast to a harder surface
made from a monofilament.
[0118] Multi-layered constructions also provide opportunities for
color design, by different colors being used for different
layers.
[0119] An alternative of multi-layered constructions are pockets,
in which two textile layers are connected to each other only on one
side so that a hollow space is created. It is then possible to
introduce a foam material, for example, through an opening, e.g. at
the tongue, the shoe upper, the heel or in other areas.
Alternatively, the pocket may also be filled with a knitted fabric
spacer.
[0120] A tongue may be manufactured as a continuous piece and
connected with the shoe upper subsequently, or it can be
manufactured in one piece with the shoe upper. Ridges on the inside
may improve the flexibility of the tongue and ensure that a
distance is created between the tongue and the foot, which ensures
additional ventilation. Laces may be guided through one or several
weft-knitted tunnels of the tongue. The tongue may also be
reinforced with polymer in order to achieve stabilization of the
tongue and e.g. prevent a very thin tongue from convolving.
Moreover, the tongue can then also be fitted to the shape of the
last or the foot.
[0121] Three-dimensional knitted fabrics may be used wherever
additional cushioning or protection is desired, e.g. at the shoe
upper or the tongue. Three-dimensional structures may also serve to
create distances between neighboring textile layers or also between
a textile layer and the foot, thus ensuring ventilation.
[0122] The knitted fabric is particularly stretchable in the
direction of the stitches (longitudinal direction) due to its
construction. This stretching may be reduced e.g. by a polymer
coating, as described above in section 5.4. The stretching may also
be reduced by various measures in the knitted fabric itself. One
possibility is reducing the size of the mesh openings, that is,
using a smaller needle size. This technique can be used at the shoe
upper, for example. Moreover, the stretching of the knitted fabric
can be reduced by knitted reinforcement, e.g. three-dimensional
structures. Such structures may be arranged on the inside or the
outside of a shoe upper. Furthermore, a non-stretchable yarn may be
laid in a tunnel in order to limit stretching.
[0123] Colored areas with several colors may be created by using a
different thread and/or by additional layers. In transitional
areas, smaller mesh openings (smaller needle sizes) are used in
order to achieve a fluent passage of colors. Further effects may be
achieved by weft-knitted inserts (inlaid works) or Jacquard
knitting.
5.9 Shoe Upper
[0124] FIG. 5 depicts a schematic representation of a certain
embodiments for a shoe upper 1, in which the techniques described
above are applied.
[0125] The shoe upper 1 depicted in FIG. 5 is weft-knitted in one
piece from the top to the bottom, from the first stitch 601 to the
last stitch 602. For finishing, the shoe upper 1 is combined along
lines 603.
[0126] In the area of the toes 610, reinforcement of the shoe upper
is advantageous in order to protect the toes from impacts and to
offer support to the foot in this exposed area. Moreover,
three-dimensional molding may be desirable in this area.
[0127] Reinforcement of the textile material may essentially be
achieved in four ways. Firstly, a smaller needle diameter may be
used, resulting in greater density of stitches and thus greater
solidity of the weft-knitted material. Secondly, the area of the
toes 610 may be weft-knitted in a multi-layered manner, as
described above in section 5.8.
[0128] Thirdly, a fuse yarn may be used in one or several layers,
as described above in section 5.7. In doing so, a layer may either
be entirely weft-knitted from fuse yarn or merely include a fuse
yarn. Fourthly, the area 610 may be reinforced by a polymer
coating, as described above in section 5.4. By subsequent melting
under pressure and heat and the ensuing cooling and hardening, the
area of the toes is given substantially greater solidness. Finally,
this area can be given a three-dimensional shape by
pressure-molding (see section 5.4).
[0129] Combining two or more of the aforementioned techniques
results in particularly effective reinforcement.
[0130] The base area 620 spans large parts of the shoe upper 1.
Considerably greater air-permeability is desirable in this area
than in the area of the toes 610 and in the area of the heel 650,
in order to enable good ventilation of a shoe having the shoe upper
1. In order to solve this problem, a smaller stitch diameter may be
used, on the one hand, which gives the weft-knitted material made
from yarn great solidness.
[0131] On the other hand, apertures are provided for in the
weft-knitting pattern, which enable airflow. However, these
apertures increase the stretchability of the weft-knitted material.
In order to make the resulting weft-knitted material more solid and
less stretchable, a second layer made from monofilament is
therefore knitted in or connected with the first layer in another
manner on the inside of the base area 620. Since the monofilament
has a low stretchability, the stretchability of the first layer is
also decreased.
[0132] In order to prevent a significant restriction of
air-permeability of the first layer made from yarn, the size of the
stitches for the monofilament of the second layer may be larger
than that for the yarn on the first layer and/or the thread
thickness of the monofilament may be significantly smaller than
that of the yarn of the first layer. This can also be seen in FIG.
6: The stitch diameter 692 of the monofilament is so wide and the
thread thickness 691 of the monofilament is so small that the
apertures of the first layer are not closed and air flow continues
to be possible.
[0133] In some embodiments, the diameter of the apertures is
approximately 1-2 mm and there are approximately 8-12 apertures per
cm.sup.2. Due to these dimensions, a certain ventilation of the
shoe is enabled, on the one hand, and, on the other hand, the
two-layered material of the area 620 is of sufficient solidity to
support the foot during movement against the occurring forces.
[0134] In certain embodiments, a texturized knitting polyester yarn
with a yarn thickness of about 660-840 dtx, comprising four to five
individual threads, with each individual thread having a yarn
thickness of about 160-170 dtx, is used for the base area 620. The
unit dtx refers to a yarn with a yarn thickness of about 1 g/10,000
m. According to some embodiments, the base area is weft-knitted
with a fine structure of about 12-14 stitches per inch.
[0135] The areas 630 are optional and have greater air-permeability
than the surrounding areas, e.g. the area 620, due to a wider
diameter of the apertures in the pattern of the material and/or a
greater density of these apertures.
[0136] The areas 640 are arranged on the medial and lateral side of
the shoe upper and are manufactured with a suitable pattern of the
material in order to ensure support of the foot in these areas. The
areas 640 have a smaller diameter of the apertures in the pattern
of the material and/or a smaller density of these apertures than
the base area 620, in order to achieve greater solidness. In order
to reduce stretching, the areas 640 may also be coated with a
polymer material, as described in section 5.4.
[0137] The area of the heel 650 may also be reinforced by a
multi-layered textile material. Furthermore, the area of the heel
650 may be provided with a further layer of monofilament, as
described in section 5.5, in order to reduce the stretchability of
that area.
[0138] Considerable reinforcement of the area of the heel 650 as
well as the area of the toes 610 is achieved by using fuse yarn, as
described above in section 5.7. Moreover, the area of the heel 650,
just as the area of the toes 610, may be coated with a polymer
material to reinforce the weft-knitted textile material, as
described above in section 5.4. The use of fuse yarn results in
stiffer material than a polymer coating, since fuse yarn is capable
of forming a thicker layer. On the other hand, using polymer is
cheaper than using fuse yarn. Therefore, it may also be possible to
apply a polymer coating in different thicknesses, e.g. thicker in
the area of the heel 650 and/or the area of the toes 610 than in
the medial/lateral areas 640.
[0139] The area 660 runs along the area of the shoe's opening and
the lacing and is additionally reinforced, e.g. by a multi-layered
textile material, which may also comprise a monofilament. In order
to further reinforce the material, the area 660 is reinforced with
a polymer material, which may have a greater thickness than in the
areas 640, e.g. by coating with several layers. Apertures for the
laces may be melted through.
[0140] The so-called gusset technique, which is depicted in FIG. 7,
can be used for the area 670. The gusset technique enables
clustering more knitting stitches, which makes it possible to
finalize outlines, particularly round outlines such as the end
outline 71 of the upper, in a better and more precise manner.
Reference number 72 designates the separation line for the gusset
technique.
[0141] The area 670 at the upper back end of the shoe upper 1 may
e.g. be formed as a pocket by a double-layered material, which is
open on one end in order to place a foam material therein for wear
comfort and in order to protect the foot. Alternatively, a knitted
fabric spacer may provide the desired cushioning. The area 670 is
weft-knitted in one piece with the rest of the shoe upper 1. It
comprises two layers made from yarn (no monofilament), whereas
these two layers are not enmeshed. They are connected on one side
such that a pocket is formed.
[0142] The structures 680 are embossed by suitable weft-knitting
patterns and structures and may be of different colors,
respectively. Moreover, a uniform weft-knitting pattern may span
the respective strips. A different weft-knitting technique is
applied in the area of structures 680, so as to enable a transition
of colors. The structures 680 may additionally also be arranged
symmetrically in the second one of the areas 640.
[0143] FIG. 8 shows additional embodiments of a shoe upper 1,
particularly its outside 81 and its inside 82, as well as an
assembled shoe with a shoe upper, whose areas have a different form
than in the shoe upper 1, which is depicted in views 81 and 82.
FIG. 8 particularly shows the area of the toes 610, the base area
620, the lateral and the medial areas 640, the area of the heel
650, the reinforcement area 660, the area 670 with the pocket, and
the structures 680, which were described in connection with FIG. 5.
Reference number 72 once again designates the separation line for
the gusset technique, which makes it possible to finalize the end
outline 71 in a better and more precise manner, as mentioned
above.
[0144] FIG. 9 shows further embodiments of a shoe upper 1 and of a
shoe 2 with a shoe upper 1. FIG. 9 once again shows the area of the
toes 610, the base area 620, the area of the heel 650, the
reinforcement area 660, the area 670 with the pocket and the
structures 680, which were described in connection with FIG. 5.
5.10 Computerized Knitting Machines
[0145] The manufacture of a shoe upper by knitting can be fully
automated on knitting machines, as they are for example provided by
the company Stoll. A knitting program is programmed for that
purpose, and subsequently the process runs automatically, virtually
without further effort. The manufacture of a shoe can be rapidly
re-programmed without great effort, i.e. it is possible to change
areas, to adjust the size, to exchange yarns and alter patterns of
the material without having to change the machine itself.
[0146] Thus, the design of the shoe (color, shape, size, fit,
function) can be rapidly modified. This is advantageous for
production in a factory, as well as for production at a point of
sale. Thus, a customer might specify his or her data in a shop and
the shoe would subsequently be knitted according to his or her
individual dimensions. The shoe can be adjusted to the person
wearing it by the shoe upper being adjusted to the shape of the
foot of the person wearing the shoe.
[0147] To this end, it is possible to adjust areas coated with
polymer material (see section 5.4) as well as areas with fuse yarn
(see section 5.7) to a last or a foot. FIG. 10 shows how a shoe
upper 1 is adjusted to a last 1000 by means of a back-cap
preforming machine 1010 (the knitted portions of the shoe upper 1
are schematically shown by the irregular hatch in FIG. 10). In the
left part of FIG. 10, the shoe upper 1 has already been placed
around the last 1000. In the right part of FIG. 10, the back cap of
the shoe upper 1 is pressed against the last 1000 by jaws 1020,
whereby the polymer material and/or the fuse yarn melts, which
causes the back cap to be permanently deformed according to the
shape of the last.
[0148] The following examples are described to facilitate a deeper
understanding of the invention: [0149] 1. Shoe upper (1) for a
shoe, in particular a sports shoe (2), having [0150] a. a first
portion and a second portion which are jointly manufactured as a
knitted fabric (11, 12, 13); [0151] b. wherein only one (610, 650)
of the first portion and the second portion of the knitted fabric
(11, 12, 13) is reinforced by a coating of a polymer material
applied to the shoe upper (1). [0152] 2. Shoe upper (1) according
to the preceding example, wherein the knitted fabric (11, 12) is
weft-knitted. [0153] 3. Shoe upper (1) according to example 1,
wherein the knitted fabric (13) is warp-knitted. [0154] 4. Shoe
upper (1) according to any one of the preceding examples, wherein
yarns of the knitted fabric (11, 12, 13) are positioned by the
coating of a polymer material applied to the shoe upper (1). [0155]
5. Shoe upper (1) according to any one of the preceding examples,
wherein the polymer material comprises fibers and/or pigments.
[0156] 6. Shoe upper (1) according to one of the preceding
examples, wherein the polymer material is applied to the inside of
the shoe upper (1). [0157] 7. Shoe upper (1) according to one of
the preceding examples, wherein the polymer material is applied to
the shoe upper in a liquid state. [0158] 8. Shoe upper (1)
according to one of the preceding examples, wherein the polymer
material has a viscosity in the range of 15-80 Pas at
90-150.degree. C., preferably 15-50 Pas at 110-150.degree. C.
[0159] 9. Shoe upper (1) according to one of the preceding
examples, wherein the applied polymer material has a hardness in
the range of 40-60 shore D. [0160] 10. Shoe upper (1) according to
one of the preceding examples, wherein the polymer material is
applied with a thickness of 0.2-1 mm in at least one layer. [0161]
11. Shoe upper (1) according to example 10, wherein the polymer
material is applied in several layers. [0162] 12. Shoe upper (1)
according to the preceding example, wherein at least two layers
have different thicknesses. [0163] 13. Shoe upper (1) according to
one of the preceding examples, wherein the portion which is
reinforced with the polymer material is arranged in the toe area
(610). [0164] 14. Shoe upper (1) according to one of the preceding
examples, wherein the portion which is reinforced with the polymer
material is arranged in the heel area (650). [0165] 15. Shoe upper
(1) according to one of the preceding examples, wherein the portion
which is reinforced with the polymer material is arranged on a
lateral side and/or a medial side in the midfoot area of the shoe
upper. [0166] 16. Shoe upper (1) according to one of the preceding
examples, wherein the first and/or the second portion of the
knitted fabric (11, 12, 13) comprises a first textile layer and a
second textile layer, wherein the first textile layer comprises a
yarn, and wherein the second textile layer comprises a
monofilament. [0167] 17. Shoe upper (1) according to the preceding
example, wherein the portion in which the knitted fabric (11, 12,
13) is reinforced by a coating of a polymer material applied to the
shoe upper (1) comprises the first textile layer and the second
textile layer. [0168] 18. Shoe upper (1) according to the preceding
example, wherein the polymer material is arranged on the second
textile layer. [0169] 19. Shoe upper (1) according to one of the
examples 16-18, wherein the portion comprising the first textile
layer and the second textile layer is arranged in the area of the
toes, the midfoot, the heel and/or the lacing of the shoe upper
(1). [0170] 20. Shoe upper (1) according to one of the preceding
examples, wherein the knitted fabric (11, 12, 13) further comprises
a fuse yarn which comprises a thermoplastic material. [0171] 21.
Shoe upper (1) according to one of the examples 16-19 in connection
with example 19, wherein the fuse yarn is arranged in the first
textile layer and/or the second textile layer. [0172] 22. Shoe
upper (1) according to example 20, wherein the fuse yarn is
arranged between the first textile layer and the second textile
layer. [0173] 23. Shoe upper (1) according to one of the preceding
claims, wherein the polymer material comprises a non-woven polymer
material. [0174] 24. Shoe upper (1) according to one of the
examples 2 or 3 in connection with one of the examples 16-22,
wherein the first textile layer and the second textile layer are
connected by weft-knitting or by warp-knitting. [0175] 25. Shoe
upper (1) for a shoe, in particular a sports shoe (2), having
[0176] a. at least one portion which comprises a weft-knitted
material; [0177] b. wherein the weft-knitted material comprises a
first weft-knitted layer of a yarn and a second weft-knitted layer
of a monofilament; [0178] c. wherein the second weft-knitted layer
and the first weft-knitted layer are connected such that the
stretching of the first weft-knitted layer is reduced by the second
weft-knitted layer. [0179] 26. Shoe upper (1) for a shoe according
to example 25, wherein the second weft-knitted layer is only
connected to the first weft-knitted layer. [0180] 27. Shoe upper
(1) for a shoe according to example 25 or 26, wherein the first
textile layer and the second textile layer are knitted to each
other. [0181] 28. Shoe upper (1) for a shoe according to one of the
examples 25-27, wherein the first textile layer comprises apertures
for airing. [0182] 29. Shoe upper (1) for a shoe according to one
of examples the 25-28, wherein the second textile layer comprises
larger stitches than the first textile layer. [0183] 30. Method of
manufacture of a shoe upper (1) for a shoe, in particular a sports
shoe (2), wherein the shoe upper comprises a first portion and a
second portion which are jointly manufactured as a knitted fabric
(11, 12, 13), comprising the step of: [0184] applying a polymer
layer as a coating in only one (610, 650) of the first portion and
the second portion of the shoe upper (1). [0185] 31. Method of
manufacture of a shoe upper (1) according to the preceding example,
further comprising the step of pressing the polymer-coated portion
of the shoe upper (1) under pressure and heat. [0186] 32. Method of
manufacture of a shoe upper (1) according to one of the examples
30-31, wherein the polymer layer is sprayed on. [0187] 33. Method
of manufacture of a shoe upper (1) according to one of the examples
31-32, wherein the polymer layer is applied by coating with a
doctor knife or laying on. [0188] 34. Method of manufacture of a
shoe upper (1) according to one of the examples 30-31, wherein the
polymer material is applied by dipping the knitted fabric (11, 12,
13) at least in part into a polymer solution. [0189] 35. Method of
manufacture of a shoe upper (1) according to example 30, wherein
the polymer material comprises a non-woven polymer material, and
wherein the step of applying involves heat pressing the non-woven
polymer material onto the knitted fabric. [0190] 36. Method of
manufacture of a shoe upper (1) according to one of the examples
30-35, wherein the knitted fabric (11, 12, 13) comprises a first
textile layer and a second textile layer, wherein the first textile
layer comprises a yarn and wherein the second textile layer
comprises a monofilament, further comprising the steps of: [0191]
applying a polymer material to the second layer; and [0192]
pressing the shoe upper (1) under pressure and temperature, wherein
the polymer material melts and then penetrates the second textile
layer and substantially coats the first textile layer. [0193] 37.
Method of manufacture of a shoe upper (1) according to one of the
examples 30-36, wherein the method further comprises: [0194]
compression-molding the textile material. [0195] 38. Method of
manufacture of a shoe upper (1) according to one of the examples
36-37, wherein the monofilament and the yarn comprise a higher
melting point than the polymer layer. [0196] 39. Method of
manufacture of a shoe upper (1) according to one of the examples
30-38, wherein the yarn comprises a fuse yarn which comprises a
thermoplastic material. [0197] 40. Method of manufacture of a shoe
upper (1) according to the example 39, wherein the monofilament and
the yarn comprise a higher melting point than the thermoplastic
material of the fuse yarn. [0198] 41. Method of manufacture of a
shoe upper (1) according to any of the preceding examples 30-40,
wherein the polymer material is applied to the inside of the shoe
upper (1).
[0199] Different arrangements of the components depicted in the
drawings or described above, as well as components and steps not
shown or described are possible. Similarly, some features and
sub-combinations are useful and may be employed without reference
to other features and sub-combinations. Embodiments of the
invention have been described for illustrative and not restrictive
purposes, and alternative embodiments will become apparent to
readers of this patent. Accordingly, the present invention is not
limited to the embodiments described above or depicted in the
drawings, and various embodiments and modifications may be made
without departing from the scope of the claims below.
* * * * *