U.S. patent application number 13/771600 was filed with the patent office on 2013-06-27 for methods for preparing hair coloring compositions.
This patent application is currently assigned to The Procter & Gamble Company. The applicant listed for this patent is The Procter & Gamble Company. Invention is credited to Juergen SCHMENGER, Manfred SCHMITT.
Application Number | 20130160222 13/771600 |
Document ID | / |
Family ID | 44310180 |
Filed Date | 2013-06-27 |
United States Patent
Application |
20130160222 |
Kind Code |
A1 |
SCHMENGER; Juergen ; et
al. |
June 27, 2013 |
Methods for Preparing Hair Coloring Compositions
Abstract
Methods for providing, at the discretion of the user, at least
two different oxidative hair coloring compositions providing
different level of lift based on a single tint component. The
methods involve the use of a tint component, an oxidizing component
and a third component comprising a non-ammonia alkalizing agent.
The compositions may comprise little or no ammonia.
Inventors: |
SCHMENGER; Juergen;
(Weiterstadt, DE) ; SCHMITT; Manfred; (Bensheim,
DE) |
|
Applicant: |
Name |
City |
State |
Country |
Type |
The Procter & Gamble Company; |
Cincinnati |
OH |
US |
|
|
Assignee: |
The Procter & Gamble
Company
Cincinnati
OH
|
Family ID: |
44310180 |
Appl. No.: |
13/771600 |
Filed: |
February 20, 2013 |
Related U.S. Patent Documents
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Application
Number |
Filing Date |
Patent Number |
|
|
13352552 |
Jan 18, 2012 |
8398724 |
|
|
13771600 |
|
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Current U.S.
Class: |
8/406 |
Current CPC
Class: |
A61Q 5/08 20130101; A61K
8/41 20130101; A61K 2800/88 20130101; A61Q 5/10 20130101 |
Class at
Publication: |
8/406 |
International
Class: |
A61K 8/41 20060101
A61K008/41; A61Q 5/10 20060101 A61Q005/10 |
Foreign Application Data
Date |
Code |
Application Number |
Jan 18, 2011 |
EP |
11151283.6 |
Claims
1. An alkalizing composition comprising: a. from about 8% to about
10% of a non-ammonia alkalizing agent; b. from about 2 wt. % to
about 30 wt. % of at least one fatty alcohol with 10 to 24 carbon
atoms, and one or more or all of (i), (ii) and (iii): i. from about
0.2 wt. % to about 6.0 wt. % of at least one diester of formula:
R.sup.1--CO--O--(CH.sub.2--CH--O).sub.n--CO--R.sup.2, where n is 1,
2 or 3, and R.sup.1 and R.sup.2 are the same or different alkyl
radicals with 12 to 20 carbon atoms; ii. from about 0.5 wt. % to
about 20 wt. % glycerine fatty acid ester with 10 to 24 carbon
atoms; and iii. from about 0.1 wt. % to about 10 wt. % of non-ionic
and/or anionic and/or ampholytic emulsifiers.
2. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the non-ammonia
alkalizing agent is monoethanolamine.
3. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the composition
comprises about 9% of a non-ammonia alkalizing agent.
4. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the composition
has a pH of from about 4.5 to about 12.5.
Description
FIELD OF THE INVENTION
[0001] The invention relates to methods for making oxidative hair
coloring composition having relatively high lift. In addition to
the usual tint component and oxidizing component, the method
involves mixing a third component comprising a non-ammonia
alkalizing agent. The invention may be used for making, at the
discretion of the user, two or more different oxidative hair
coloring compositions providing different level of lift based on a
single tint component by adding or not the third component. The
user, which may be a professional hair stylist, is thus provided
with a versatile system for preparing for example a first hair
coloring composition having a relatively lower lift or a second
hair coloring composition having a relatively higher lift compared
to the first hair coloring composition. The compositions obtained
by the method of the invention and the components used in the
invention may comprise little or no ammonia.
BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION
[0002] Two-component permanent oxidative hair colorants comprising
a tint component and an oxidizing component are commonly used in
professional hair salons. The tint component contains so-called
oxidative primary dyes which are small molecules (primary
intermediates or couplers) and an alkalizing agent, usually
ammonia. These primary dyes react with each other in the presence
of an oxidizing agent to form larger, colored molecules. The tint
component is thus mixed with the oxidizing component immediately
prior to application to the hair to be colored and the resulting
mixture is applied on hair for 10 to 50 mn usually for 15 to 35 mn.
The oxidizing component may be for example a diluted stabilized
solution of hydrogen peroxide. The mixture usually has an alkaline
pH of between about 9.5 and 10.5.
[0003] Because the primary dyes are small enough to migrate into
the hair shaft but the resulting colored molecules are too large to
easily leave the hair, the resulting coloration is stable and
undergo little fading. Furthermore, hydrogen peroxide, especially
in the presence of ammonia, is capable of bleaching melanin, so
that it is possible to obtain shades which are lighter or darker
than the natural colour. Thus oxidative dye compositions comprising
ammonia as alkalizing agent are often referred to as permanent hair
colorants or "Level 3" hair colorant. Permanent hair colorants are
for example marketed under the Koleston Perfect brand name by Wella
Professional in Europe.
[0004] Demi-permanent hair colorants, also referred to as "level 2"
colorants, are also two-component systems. They use primary dyes as
in permanent hair colorants but differ in that they use other
alkalizing agents than ammonia, in particular alkanolamines such as
monoethanolamine (MEA) or aminomethylpropanol (AMP), and usually
lower concentration of hydrogen peroxide (1 to 3 weight % (w. %) in
the mixed product ("on-head" composition) compared to 3 to 6 w. %
for permanent dyes). Other peroxides may also be used for Level 3
bleaching composition, e.g. persulfate, as oxidizing agent.
Demi-permanent hair colorants usually provoke less melanin
bleaching and thus less lift (i.e. removal) of natural hair color.
The resulting dyes also penetrate less deeply in the hair shaft so
that demi-permanent hair colorants can be less stable than
permanent hair colorants. On the other hand, demi-permanent hair
colorants are usually also less damaging to the hair structure than
permanent hair colorants and the resulting hair color may also be
more natural looking. Demi-permanent hair colorant compositions do
not have the strong ammonia smell of permanent hair colorant and
thus have a better consumer acceptance. A professional brand of
demi-permanent dyes in Europe is for example Color Touch from Wella
Professional.
[0005] Some oxidative colorant products sometimes referred to as
lightening or bleaching products comprise little amount of
precursor dyes (one can set an arbitrary limit at less than 0.3% by
weight of precursor dyes of the composition on-head). For such
products, the color change therefore mainly results in the
degradation of the natural melanin of hair by the oxidizing agent
in an alkaline environment.
[0006] Ammonia-free hair coloring products have been proposed with
the goal to provide coloring results close to those obtained with
permanent dyes containing ammonia. For example Schwarzkopf has
launched in 2009 in Germany a two-component ammonia-free colorant
product under the brand name Essensity. The alkalizing agent used
is MEA and relatively high level of hydrogen peroxide is used (up
to 7.7% on head).
[0007] U.S. Pat. No. 6,423,101, assigned to EUGENE PERMA discloses
an ammonia-free composition for dyeing keratinous fibers,
comprising an oxidant compound, coloring agent precursors and a
non-volatile odorless alkalizing agent characterized in that it
further comprises: a quaternized copolymer of dimethyldiallyl
ammonium and acrylic acid; a quaternized silicone; an
acrylic-itaconic copolymer esterified with one or several fatty
alcohol's, optionally polyoxyethylenated. The composition is
prepared using a two-component system with MEA as alkalizing agent.
According to this Patent, the specific ternary complex claimed
provides coloration which gives good coverage and resistance
similar to coloration using ammonia.
[0008] US2010/0154141A1 assigned to L'Oreal discloses a process for
coloring keratin materials comprising: applying to said keratin
materials a coloring composition comprising a direct emulsion (A)
comprising at least one fatty substance other than fatty acids
present in an amount greater than 25% by weight; at least one
surfactant; at least one alkaline agent; at least one colored or
coloring entity chosen from direct dyes and oxidation dyes; and
water in an amount greater than 5% by weight relative to the total
weight of the direct emulsion (A); and a composition (B) comprising
at least one oxidizing agent. The alkanolamine is preferably chosen
from 2-amino-2-methyl-1-propanol and monoethanolamine.
[0009] Although hair coloring products obtained by mixing two
components are most commonly used, products obtained by mixing
three components have also been disclosed. US2008/0052841A1
assigned to LES PRODUITS VERNICO LTEE for example discloses a
method for permanently modifying a color of keratinous fibers with
a mixture of three compositions A, B and C, wherein said
composition A comprises at least a reducing agent and optionally a
coloring compound, said composition B comprises at least an
alkalizing compound and said composition C comprises at least an
oxidizing compound.
[0010] US2010/0223739A2 assigned to L'Oreal discloses a process and
kit for dyeing keratin fibers, in which the following are applied
to the fibers: an aqueous cosmetic composition (A) comprising at
least one fatty substance and at least one surfactant; a cosmetic
composition (B) comprising at least one alkaline agent, a cosmetic
composition (C) comprising at least one oxidizing agent, wherein
the amount of the at least one fatty substance in composition (A)
is greater than 20% by weight relative to the total weight of
composition (A), and when the process used is a process for dyeing
keratin fibers, then cosmetic composition (B) further comprises at
least one oxidation dye, at least one direct dye, or both.
[0011] Further patent applications assigned to L'Oreal disclose
coloring compositions obtained by mixing three components. For
example US2009/0191142 discloses a process for dyeing human keratin
fibers in the presence of at least one oxidizing agent, comprising
applying to the fibers at least one anhydrous composition (A)
comprising at least one fatty substance and at least one
surfactant, at least one composition (B) comprising at least one
oxidizing agent, and at least one composition (C) comprising at
least one dye chosen from direct and oxidation dyes, and at least
one organic amine having a pKb at 25.degree. C. of less than 12.
The disclosure also relates to a multi-compartment device
containing, in separate compartments, the compositions (A), (B),
and (C); and a method of making a ready-to-use composition. The
present disclosure also relates to an anhydrous composition
comprising at least one fatty substance, at least one surfactant,
at least one dye, and at least one organic amine. L'Oreal's
US2009/0162309, US2009/0158533, US2010/0175705, US2010/0175706,
US2010/0178264, US2010/0154137 also disclose three-component
coloring compositions.
[0012] In addition, L'Oreal has launched in 2009 in Western Europe
a three-component system for professional usage under the brand
name INOA. The INOA products comprise a fatty component, a
concentrated dye component and an oxidizing component to be mixed
immediately before use. The fatty component comprises primarily
mineral oil and does not comprise an alkalizing agent. The dye
component comprises MEA as alkalizing agent. The 3 components are
recommended to be mixed in a 40:16:60 weight ratio.
[0013] Although the prior art discloses using two or three
components to obtain a permanent hair color result without ammonia,
the prior art has not provided a versatile system for providing
different level of lift and/or intensity of color at the discretion
of the user based a single tint component.
[0014] Furthermore Level 2 and Level 3 products, even provided by
the same company, usually are based on very different chassis. For
example, although the INOA products from L'Oreal achieve or are
close to achieve level 3 results without ammonia, they require the
use of high level of a fatty phase and have a completely different
formulation than other L'Oreal's Level 2 products. This increases
complexity and costs.
[0015] The present inventors have now surprisingly found that it
was possible to increase the lift provided by non-ammonia based
oxidative two-component colorant products by mixing them with a
third component. The third component comprises a non-alkalizing
agent. It was surprisingly found that for example a conventional
Level 2 product may achieve a lift up to a classic Level 3 product
with the adjunction of the third alkalizing component.
[0016] It was also surprisingly found that the color shift in the
three-component system of the invention relative to the
two-component system was not significant. Thus the user can add the
third component of the invention to a two-component based
composition, in order to provide a composition having higher lift
while achieving the same tonality. A further advantage is thus that
existing two-component "Level 2" coloring products can be "boosted"
into "Level 3" coloring products by the addition of this third
component, thus extending the range of results achievable at very
little cost and complexity.
[0017] Thus, the present invention provides a simple and
cost-efficient system for providing at the choice of the user a
first or a second coloring compositions having relatively less or
relatively more lift based on the same tint component.
SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION
[0018] In a first aspect, the inventive is for a method for making
an oxidative hair coloring composition. The method comprises the
steps of providing a tint component and an oxidizing component and
then mixing the tint component and the oxidizing component with a
third component comprising a second non-ammonia alkalizing agent to
make the oxidative hair coloring composition. The tint component
comprises a first non-ammonia alkalizing agent and oxidative
primary dyes. The third component was found to be able to raise the
lift of the oxidative coloring composition.
[0019] In a second aspect, the invention is for a method for making
at the discretion of the user either a first oxidative hair
coloring composition or a second oxidative hair coloring
composition having a relatively higher lift than said first
oxidative hair coloring composition, based on the same tint
component comprising a first non-ammonia alkalizing agent and
oxidative primary dyes. The method comprises the steps of:
[0020] mixing the tint component with a first oxidizing component
to obtain the first hair coloring composition; or
[0021] providing a third component comprising a second non-ammonia
alkalizing agent; and
[0022] mixing the tint component with a second oxidizing component
and the third component to obtain a second hair coloring
composition having a relatively higher lift than the first coloring
composition.
[0023] The second oxidizing component may be the same as or
different than the first oxidizing component. The second
non-ammonia alkalizing agent may be the same as or different than
the first non-ammonia alkalizing agent.
[0024] This and other features of the methods according to the
present invention are further disclosed in the following
description and claims.
DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION
Definitions
[0025] By "oxidative hair coloring composition", it is meant a
ready-to-use composition which can change the color of hair on
which it is applied and which comprises an alkalizing agent, an
oxidizing agent and oxidative primary dyes. By "two-component"
oxidative hair coloring composition it is meant an oxidative hair
coloring composition which is obtained by mixing shortly before use
two components: a tint component and an oxidizing component. The
tint component comprises the oxidative primary dyes and the
alkalizing agent. The oxidizing component comprises the oxidizing
agent. By "component" it is meant an individual composition which
is mixed by the user with one or more other components for
preparing the ready-to-use composition to be applied to the hair.
By "user" it is meant the person preparing the hair coloring
composition. The user may be for example a professional hair
stylist working in a salon and thus a different person than the one
on which hair the composition is applied, or the user may be the
same person as the one to which the hair belongs.
[0026] By "lift" (or "lift power") it is meant the amount of
removal of the natural hair pigment that the coloring composition
can provide. The amount of lift provided by different hair coloring
compositions can be compared using human natural dark hair sample
(e.g. hair of individual of Chinese descent) and measuring the
change of color achieved following application of the compositions.
The change in color can be measured using well known parameters
such as L*a*b* values. A composition can be said to provide a
higher lift than another composition when the .DELTA.L* value
measured for a given treated sample of dark hair is higher for that
composition than for the other composition, using the same
experimental condition of course. The denomination Level 2 (herein
used interchangeably with "demi-permanent" or "tone-on-tone") and
Level 3 (herein used interchangeably with "permanent") are commonly
used in the hair care trade to differentiate compositions with
medium and high lift, although there is no official definition for
differentiating a Level 2 from a Level 3.
[0027] By "oxidizing agent" it is meant an electron accepting
compound suitable for use in hair coloring compositions for
removing the natural color of hair (by destroying the melanin
pigment) and reacting with oxidative primary dyes to provide an
oxidative hair color. The most commonly used oxidizing agent in the
art is hydrogen peroxide, however further suitable oxidizing agents
that can be used alone or in combination with hydrogen peroxide
will be described below.
[0028] By "alkalizing agent" it is meant one or more compound
suitable for raising the pH to alkaline level in hair coloring
compositions, in particular to a pH between 9 and 11. Generally,
the most commonly used alkalizing agent in the art is ammonia,
however the present invention involves using alkalizing agent other
than ammonia (herein "non-ammonia" alkalizing agent), in particular
alkanolamines such as monoethanolamine. Alternative non-ammonia
alkalizing agents will be described below.
[0029] Herein, "comprising" means that other steps and other
ingredients can be added to the term qualified. On the other hand,
the term "consisting of" means that other steps and other
ingredients (other than trace amount) are excluded.
[0030] All percentages are by weight of the ready-to-use coloring
composition (i.e. as applied on head after the two or more
components have been mixed) unless specifically stated otherwise.
All ratios are weight ratios unless specifically stated
otherwise.
Introduction
[0031] In a first aspect, the present invention is for a method for
making a oxidative hair coloring composition. The coloring
composition can be based on a two-component oxidative coloring
composition which can be obtained by mixing a tint component which
comprises a first non-ammonia alkalizing agent and oxidative
primary dyes and an oxidizing component. The method comprises the
step of mixing the tint component and the oxidizing component with
a third component comprising a second non-ammonia alkalizing agent.
The third compound was found to be able to increase the lift of the
coloring composition compared to two-component composition without
the third component.
[0032] The inventors have indeed surprisingly found that it was
possible to raise the lift of a standard coloring two-component
composition by providing a third component comprising a second
non-ammonia alkalizing agent to be mixed with the two other
components. The third component may be based on a similar chassis
as the tint component to ease mixing but this is not required. For
example, the tint component and third component may be oil-in-water
emulsion. The second non-ammonia alkalizing agent may be the same
or different than the first non-ammonia alkalizing agent.
[0033] The tint and oxidative components may be for example the
components of an already marketed oxidative two-component
demi-permanent coloring composition ("level 2") for which it is
desired to achieve a level of lift equal to or comparable to a
permanent coloring composition ("level 3").
[0034] The inventors have found that the invention in a second
aspect can be used to provide at the discretion of the user two
different oxidative hair coloring compositions having different
lifts based on a single tint component which is a tint component
comprising a first non-ammonia alkalizing agent and oxidative
primary dyes. This method comprises the steps of:
[0035] mixing the tint component with a first oxidizing component
to obtain a first hair coloring composition; or
[0036] providing a third component comprising a second non-ammonia
alkalizing agent; and
[0037] mixing the tint component with a second oxidizing component
and the third component to obtain a second hair coloring
composition having a relatively higher lift than the first coloring
composition.
[0038] Without wishing to be bound by theory, the inventors believe
that the third component raises the relative concentration of
non-ammonia alkalizing agent in the mixed composition compared to
the composition without the third component. Until the invention,
it was generally thought that the lift power of a composition was
driven by the concentration of oxidizing agent. However, it is also
known that raising the concentration of oxidizing agent on-head can
also increase the damage caused to the structure of hair fiber. The
inventors now believe that it is in fact possible to increase the
lift power of a composition by increasing the relative
concentration of non-ammonia alkalizing agent relative to the
concentration of oxidizing agent. In addition, the inventors have
found that damages are kept in this way at relatively low level,
and that for coloring composition the rise of the alkalizing agent
concentration in the composition does not cause substantial color
shift.
[0039] The different components may be in any usual cosmetic form,
in particular oil-in-water emulsion. The oxidizing component may
also be an oil-in-water emulsion or in other form for example a
powder or an aqueous solution.
Non-Ammonia Alkalizing Agent
[0040] The tint component and the third component comprise a first
non-ammonia alkalizing agent and a second non-ammonia alkalizing
agent respectively. The first and second non-ammonia alkalizing
agents may be the same or different. The non-ammonia alkalizing
agent may be an alkanolamine, in particular one selected from
monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine,
monopropanolamine, dipropanolamine, tripropanolamine,
2-amino-2-methyl-1,3-propanediol, 2-amino-2-methyl-1-propanol
(a.k.a. aminomethylpropanol, AMP),
2-amino-2-hydroxymethyl-1,3-propanediol and mixtures thereof.
Monoethanolamine (MEA) or aminomethylpropanol (AMP) are commonly
used in ammonia-free marketed products and may thus be preferred.
Monoethanolamine may be particularly preferred for use as first
non-ammonia alkalizing agent and second non-ammonia alkalizing
agent.
[0041] Although the tint component and/or the third component may
comprise in some embodiments some amount of ammonia (for example up
to 0.5% by weight of the component) in addition to the non-ammonia
alkalizing agent, it may be preferred that the hair coloring
composition is free of ammonia. Thus in some embodiments the tint
component and the third component do not contain ammonia.
[0042] Although the tint component and third component according to
the invention may preferably comprise the same non-ammonia
alkalizing agent, in particular monoethanolamine, the concentration
of the second alkalizing agent in the third component may be higher
than the concentration of the first alkalizing agent in the tint
component so that the total concentration in non-ammonia alkalizing
agent is higher in the ready-to-use coloring composition after the
third component has been mixed with the tint component and the
oxidizing component.
[0043] The concentration in non-ammonia alkalizing agent, in
particular MEA, in the third component may be comprised between 3%
and 15%, preferably 6% to 12%, more preferably 8% to 10% by weight
of the third component, exemplarily 9% and is preferably higher
than in the tint component. A relatively high concentration is
believed to be necessary to raise the concentration in non-ammonia
alkalizing agent in the final composition after mixing. By
comparison, the usual concentration in non-ammonia alkalizing agent
in a standard tint component for a two-component oxidative coloring
composition, as can also be used in the present invention, may be
of from 1% to 3% on head, or 1.5% to 5% in the tint component.
Oxidizing Agent
[0044] The methods of the invention use an oxidizing component,
which comprises an oxidizing agent. The oxidizing component may be
any usual oxidizing composition known in the art for this purpose.
In particular, the oxidizing component may be an oil-in-water
emulsion of hydrogen peroxide (H.sub.2O.sub.2). The oxidizing agent
may be more generally selected from hydrogen peroxide, sodium
periodate, urea peroxide, melamine peroxide, perborates,
percarbonates, perphosphates, persilicates, persulphates,
peroxidises and mixtures thereof.
[0045] The first oxidizing agent may be the same as or different
than the second oxidizing agent and is preferably in both cases
hydrogen peroxide. The concentration in oxidizing agent may be the
same or different in the first and second oxidizing component,
however it may be preferred that a higher concentration in
oxidizing agent is used in the second oxidizing component in order
to maintain a certain concentration on-head.
[0046] Usually, in a standard two-component oxidative system,
non-ammonia based oxidative hair composition, the concentration in
hydrogen peroxide may range from 1% to 3% by weight of the
composition. For example, a ColorTouch.RTM. hair coloring product
from Wella will usually be mixed in 1:2 ratio (by weight) with a 4%
or 1.9% H.sub.2O.sub.2 emulsion thus resulting in a 2.7%
H.sub.2O.sub.2, respectively 1.3% concentration on-head.
[0047] When a third component is used in one of the steps of the
invention, the second oxidizing component may be the same as the
first oxidizing component used in the two-component oxidative
composition. The oxidizing agent may however be more concentrated
in the second oxidizing component than in the first oxidizing
component, especially when the relative amount of the oxidizing
component in the oxidative composition comprising the third
component is lower due to the dilution effect caused by the third
component.
[0048] The concentration in hydrogen peroxide in the oxidative
coloring composition obtained with the third component may be for
example from 1% to 6%, in certain embodiments from 2% to 4%, in
particular from 2.5 to 3.5%. Using too high concentration of
hydrogen peroxide or other oxidizing agent may not provide more
lift while being damaging for the hair fiber. The second oxidizing
component may comprise hydrogen peroxide as oxidizing agent in a
higher concentration than in the first oxidizing component, for
example from 3 to 10% by weight of the second oxidizing component,
in particular from 6 to 9%.
[0049] When the third component is used, the oxidative coloring
compositions of the invention may preferably display a weight ratio
of alkalizing agent to oxidizing agent (in particular a ratio of
non-ammonia alkalizing agent, especially MEA:hydrogen peroxide)
which is higher than 1.1, preferably between 1.1 and 4.0, more
preferably between 1.2 and 3.0, as this was found to provide a good
balance between high lift and acceptable oxidative hair
damages.
Formulation Chassis and Other Ingredients
[0050] The components provided before mixing into the oxidative
coloring compositions of the invention can comprise any usual
chassis and use any common ingredients as known in the technical
field of coloration, including but not limited to: solvents;
oxidative dyes, direct dyes; oxidizing agents; radical scavengers;
thickeners and or rheology modifiers; chelants; pH modifiers and
buffering agents; carbonate ion sources; peroxymonocarbonate ion
sources; anionic, cationic, nonionic, amphoteric or zwitterionic
surfactants, or mixtures thereof; anionic, cationic, nonionic,
amphoteric or zwitterionic polymers, or mixtures thereof;
fragrances; enzymes; dispersing agents; peroxide stabilizing
agents; antioxidants; natural ingredients, e.g. proteins and
protein derivatives, and plant extracts; conditioning agents
including silicones and cationic polymers, ceramides, preserving
agents; and opacifiers and pearling agents (such as titanium
dioxide and mica). Some adjuvants referred to above, but not
specifically described below, which are suitable are listed in the
International Cosmetics Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook, (8th
ed.; The Cosmetics, Toiletry, and Fragrance Association).
Particularly, vol. 2, sections 3 (Chemical Classes) and 4
(Functions) are useful in identifying specific adjuvants to achieve
a particular purpose or multipurpose.
[0051] The following are only a few examples, which should be not
be considered as limiting, and using other common elements or
formulation chassis with the invention is of course possible.
[0052] Examples of formulation chassis for the tint component can
be found for example in patent literature or adapted from existing
commercial products, especially products comprising non-ammonia
alkalizing agent such as from the ColorTouch.RTM. range marketed by
Wella, Inoa.RTM. range marketed by L'Oreal or Essensity.RTM. range
marketed by Schwarzkopf. The components may for example be
formulated and delivered as aqueous hair product, emulsion, gel,
aerosol, or foam.
[0053] A creamy carrier for the tint component or the third
component comprising (A) 10 to 30 w. % of at least one fatty
alcohol with 10 to 24 carbon atoms; and one or more or all of: (B)
0.2 to 6.0 w. % of at least one diester of formula:
R.sup.1--CO--O--(CH.sub.2--CH.sub.2--O).sub.n--CO--R.sup.2, where n
is 1, 2 or 3, and R.sup.1 and R.sup.2 are the same or different
alkyl radicals with 12 to 20 carbon atoms; (C) 0.5 to 20 w. %
glycerine fatty acid ester with 10 to 24 carbon atoms; (D) 0.1 to
10 w. % of non-ionic and/or anionic and/or ampholytic emulsifiers,
in relation to the total weight of this tint component, and (E) has
a pH of 4.5 to 12.5, may be used, as is for example disclosed in
EP594,811A1. Lower level of fatty alcohol can also be used in this
chassis if a less thick composition is desired, for example level
of from 2% of at least one fatty alcohol with 10 to 24 carbon
atoms.
[0054] The formulations disclosed in WO98/11863A2 may also be used.
The formulations disclosed in this document contain a
beeswax-protein hydrolysate-and/or amino acid association, which
however may or may be not present in the tint component of the
present invention.
[0055] The invention may also be put in practice with a
three-component system, for example as disclosed in L'Oreal's
US2010/0223739A2, in which case the aqueous cosmetic composition
(A) comprising at least one fatty substance and at least one
surfactant as defined in this document may be considered as a
fourth composition.
[0056] The oxidizing component and the third component may be based
on the same or similar (i.e. having the same ingredients but
possibly at different level) formulation chassis as the tint
component, but these components are normally free of oxidative dye
precursors or direct dyes.
[0057] Among the usual ingredients encountered in coloring
compositions, the presence of a chelant such as EDTA or EDDS may be
beneficial in several ways, as it was shown that chelants can
reduce hair damage due to the oxidizing agent (see WO02/089754, in
particular the chelants listed on page 14 line 26 to page 17 line
5). Chelants, usually disodium EDTA, are also commonly used as
stabilizer in water-containing oxidizing component.
[0058] Among primary dyes, common primary intermediates are for
example toluene-2,5-diamine, p-phenylenediamine,
N-phenyl-p-phenylenediamine,
N,N-bis(2-hydroxyethyl)-p-phenylenediamine,
2-hydroxyethyl-p-phenylenediamine,
hydroxypropyl-bis-(N-hydroxyethyl-p-phenylenediamine),
2-methoxymethyl-p-phenylenediamine,
2-(1,2-didhydroxyethyl)-p-phenylenediamine,
2-chloro-p-phenylenediamine, p-aminophenol, p-methylaminophenol,
4-amino-m-cresol, 6-amino-m-cresol,
2,2'-methylenebis-4-aminophenol, 2,4,5,6-tetraminopyrimidine,
2,5,6-triamino-4-pyrimidinol, 1-hydroxyethyl-4,5-diaminopyrazole
sulfate, 4,5-diamino-1-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1-ethylpyrazole,
4,5-diamino-1-isopropylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1-butylpyrazole,
4,5-diamino-1-pentylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1-benzylpyrazole,
2,3-diamino-6,7-dihydropyrazolo[1,2-a]pyrazol-1(5H)-one
dimethosulfonate.
[0059] Commonly used couplers are for example resorcinol,
4-chlororesorcinol, 2-chlororesorcinol, 2-methylresorcinol,
4,6-dichlorobenzene-1,3-diol, 2,4-dimethylbenzene-1,3-diol,
m-aminophenol, 4-amino-2-hydroxytoluene,
2-methyl-5-hydroxyethylamino-phenol, 3-amino-2,6-dimethylphenol,
3-amino-2,4-dichlorphenol, 5-amino-6-chloro-o-cresol,
5-amino-4-chloro-o-cresol, 6-hydroxybenzomorpholine,
2-amino-5-ethylphenol, 2-amino-5-phenylphenol,
2-amino-5-methylphenol, 2-amino-6-methylphenol,
2-amino-5-ethoxyphenol, 5-methyl-2-(methylamino)phenol,
2,4-diaminophenoxyethanol, 2-amino-4-hydroxyethylamino-anisole,
1,3-bis-(2,4-diaminophenoxy)-propane,
2,6-dihydroxyethylamino-toluene, benzene-1,3-diamine,
2,2'-(4,6-diamino-1,3-phenylene)bis(oxy)diethanol,
3-(pyrrolidin-1-yl)aniline, 1-(3-(dimethylamino)phenyl)urea,
1-(3-aminophenyl)urea, 1-naphthol, 2-methyl-1-naphthol,
1,5-naphthalenediol, 2,7-naphthalenediol,
1-acetoxy-2-methylnaphthalene, 4-chloro-2-methylnaphthalen-1-ol,
4-methoxy-2-methylnaphthalen-1-ol,
2,6-dihydroxy-3,4-dimethylpyridine,
2,6-dimethoxy-3,5-pyridinediamine,
3-amino-2-methylamino-6-methoxypyridine, 2-amino-3-hydroxypyridine,
2,6-diaminopyridine, pyridine-2,6-diol, 5,6-dihydroxyindole,
6-hydroxyindole, 5,6-dihydroxyindoline,
3-methyl-1-phenyl-1H-pyrazol-5(4H)-one, 1,2,4-trihydroxybenzene,
2-(benzo[d][1,3]dioxol-5-ylamino)ethanol (also known as
hydroxyethyl-3,4-methylenedioxyaniline). These and other primary
intermediates and couplers may be used in different combination to
achieve the nuance sought, as is known in the art.
[0060] Direct dyes may also be incorporated in any of components of
the invention, in particular the tint component. A list of
exemplary suitable direct dyes is indicated on page 3 line 9 to
page 9 line 24. The following direct dyes are commonly used: Acid
dyes such as Acid Yellow 1, Acid Orange 3, Acid Black 1, Acid Black
52, Acid Orange 7, Acid Red 33, Acid Yellow 23, Acid Blue 9, Acid
Violet 43, Acid Blue 62, Acid Blue 25, Acid Red 4, Basic Dyes such
as Basic Brown 17, Basic Red 118, Basic Orange 69, Basic Red 76,
Basic Brown 16, Basic Yellow 57, Basic Violet 14, Basic Blue 7,
Basic Blue 26, Basic Red 2, Basic Blue 99, Basic Yellow 29, Basic
Red 51, Basic Orange 31, Basic Yellow 87,
4-(3-(4-amino-9,10-dioxo-9,10-dihydroanthracen-1-ylamino)propyl)-4-methyl-
morpholin-4-ium-methylsulfate,
(E)-1-(2-(4-(4,5-dimethylthiazol-2-yl)diazenyl)phenyl)(ethyl)amino)ethyl)-
-3-methyl-1H-imidazol-3-ium chloride,
(E)-4-(2-(4-(dimethylamino)phenyl)diazenyl)-1-methyl-1H-imidazol-3-ium-3--
yl)butane-1-sulfonate,
(E)-4-(4-(2-methyl-2-phenylhydrazono)methyl)pyridinium-1-yl)butane-1-sulf-
onate,
N,N-dimethyl-3-(4-(methylamino)-9,10-dioxo-4a,9,9a,10-tetrahydroant-
hracen-1-ylamino)-N-propylpropan-1-aminium bromide, Disperse Dyes
such as Disperse Red 17, Disperse Violet 1, Disperse Red 15,
Disperse Violet 1, Disperse Black 9, Disperse Blue 3, Disperse Blue
23, Disperse Blue 377, Nitro Dyes such as
1-(2-(4-nitrophenylamino)ethyl)urea,
2-(4-methyl-2-nitrophenylamino)ethanol, 4-nitrobenzene-1,2-diamine,
2-nitrobenzene-1,4-diamine, Picramic acid, HC Red No. 13,
2,2'-(2-nitro-1,4-phenylene)bis(azanediyl)diethanol, HC Yellow No.
5, HC Red No. 7, HC Blue No.2, HC Yellow No. 4, HC Yellow No. 2, HC
Orange No. 1, HC Red No. 1,
2-(4-amino-2-chloro-5-nitrophenylamino)ethanol, HC Red No. 3,
4-amino-3-nitrophenol, 4-(2-hydroxyethylamino)-3-nitrophenol,
2-amino-3-nitrophenol, 2-(3-(methylamino)-4-nitrophenoxy)ethanol,
3-(3-amino-4-nitrophenyl)propane-1,2-diol, HC Yellow No. 11, HC
Violet No. 1, HC Orange No. 2, HC Orange No. 3, HC Yellow No. 9, HC
Red No. 10, HC Red No. 11,
2-(2-hydroxyethylamino)-4,6-dinitrophenol, HC Blue No. 12, HC
Yellow No. 6, HC Yellow No. 12, HC Blue No. 10, HC Yellow No. 7, HC
Yellow No. 10, HC Blue No. 9,
2-chloro-6-(ethylamino)-4-nitrophenol, 6-nitropyridine-2,5-diamine,
HC Violet No. 2, 2-amino-6-chloro-4-nitrophenol,
4-(3-hydroxypropylamino)-3-nitrophenol, HC Yellow No. 13,
6-nitro-1,2,3,4-tetrahydroquinoxaline, HC Red No. 14, HC Yellow No.
15, HC Yellow No. 14, N2-methyl-6-nitropyridine-2,5-diamine,
N1-allyl-2-nitrobenzene-1,4-diamine, HC Red No. 8, HC Green No.1,
HC Blue No. 14, and Natural dyes such as Annato, Anthocyanin,
Beetroot, Carotene, Capsanthin, Lycopene, Chlorophyll, Henna,
Indigo, Cochineal.
[0061] The coloring compositions of the invention and any of the
components used in the invention may comprise a thickener, in
particular a polymeric thickener in an amount sufficient to provide
the composition with a viscosity so that it can be readily applied
to the hair without unduly dripping off the hair, as is known in
the art. Typically, such an amount will be at least about 0.1%, in
some embodiments, at least about 0.5%, in other embodiments, at
least about 1%, by weight of the composition. Examples of commonly
used associative polymeric thickeners are sold under the tradename
Aculy-22 by the company Rohm & Haas, Permulen TR1, Carbopol
2020, Carbopol Ultrez-21 by the company Noveon, and Structure 2001
and Structure 3001 by the company National Starch. Other suitable
polymers include polyether polyurethanes, for example Aculyn-44 and
Aculyn-46 by the company Rohm and Haas. Another suitable
associative polymer is cellulose modified with groups comprising at
least one C8-C30 fatty chain, such as the product Natrosol Plus
Grade 330 CS sold by the company Aqualon.
[0062] Suitable non-associative cross-linked polycarboxylic
polymers for use herein can be chosen, for example, from: (i)
cross-linked acrylic acid homopolymers; or (ii) copolymers of
acrylic or (meth)acrylic acid and of C1-C6 alkyl acrylate or
(meth)acrylate. Such polymers are sold under the names Carbopol
980, 981, 954, 2984, 5984 by the company Noveon or Synthalen M,
Synthalen L and Synthalen K by the company 3V Sigma, or Aculyn-33
by the company Rohm and Haas.
[0063] Polysaccharides may also be used, for example, glucans,
modified and unmodified starches, amylose, amylopectin, glycogen,
dextrans, celluloses and derivatives thereof (methylcelluloses,
hydroxyalkylcelluloses, ethyl hydroxyethylcelluloses, and
carboxymethylcelluloses), mannans, xylans, lignins, arabans,
galactans, galacturonans, chitin, chitosans, glucuronoxylans,
arabinoxylans, xyloglucans, glucomannans, pectic acids and pectins,
alginic acid and alginates, arabinogalactans, carrageenans, agars,
glycosaminoglucans, gum arabics, gum tragacanths, ghatti gums,
karaya gums, carob gums, galactomannans, such as guar gums, and
nonionic derivatives thereof (hydroxypropyl guar) and
bio-polysaccharides, such as xanthan gums, gellan gums, welan gums,
scleroglucans, succinoglycans and mixtures thereof. Suitable
polysaccharides are described in "Encyclopedia of Chemical
Technology", Kirk-Othmer, Third Edition, 1982, volume 3, pp.
896-900, and volume 15, pp. 439-458, in "Polymers in Nature" by E.
A. MacGregor and C. T. Greenwood, published by John Wiley &
Sons, Chapter 6, pp. 240-328,1980, and in "Industrial
Gums--Polysaccharides and their Derivatives", edited by Roy L.
Whistler, Second Edition, published by Academic Press Inc.
[0064] Salt tolerant thickeners may also be advantageously used,
including but not limited to: xanthan, guar, hydroxypropyl guar,
scleroglucan, methyl cellulose, ethyl cellulose (available as
AQUACOTE.RTM., hydroxyethyl cellulose (NATROSOL.RTM.),
carboxymethyl cellulose, hydroxypropylmethyl cellulose,
microcrystalline cellulose, hydroxybutylmethyl cellulose,
hydroxypropyl cellulose (available as KLUCEL.RTM.), hydroxyethyl
ethyl cellulose, cetyl hydroxyethyl cellulose (available as
NATROSOL.RTM. Plus 330), N-vinylpyrollidone (available as
POVIDONE.RTM.), Acrylates/Ceteth-20 Itaconate Copolymer (available
as STRUCTURE.RTM. 3001), hydroxypropyl starch phosphate (available
as STRUCTURE.RTM. ZEA), polyethoxylated urethanes or polycarbamyl
polyglycol ester (e.g. PEG-150/Decyl/SMDI copolymer (e.g.
ACULYN.RTM. 44), PEG-150/Stearyl/SMDI copolymer (available as
ACULYN.RTM. 46), trihydroxystearin (available as THIXCIN.RTM.),
acrylates copolymer (e.g. available as ACULYN.RTM. 33) or
hydrophobically modified acrylate copolymers (e.g.
Acrylates/Steareth-20 Methacrylate Copolymer (available as
ACULYN.RTM. 22), acrylates/steareth-20 methacrylate crosspolymer
(available as ACULYN.RTM. 88), acrylates/vinyl neodecanoate
crosspolymer (available as ACULYN.RTM. 38), acrylates/beheneth-25
methacrylate copolymer (available as ACULYN.RTM. 28),
acrylates/C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer (available as
Carbopol.RTM. ETD 2020), non-ionic amphophilic polymers comprising
at least one fatty chain and at least one hydrophilic unit selected
from polyether urethanes comprising at least one fatty chain, and
blends of Ceteth-10 phosphate, Di-cetyl phosphate and Cetearyl
alcohol (available as CRODAFOS.RTM. CES).
[0065] The components of the invention can be manufactured using
any suitable standard processes known in the art.
Mixing
[0066] The different components may be mixed together in any order.
When three components have to be mixed, they may be all mixed
together or one after the other. For example the tint component and
the oxidizing component may be mixed together, and the third
component then added to this intermediate mixture.
[0067] A mixing ratio of 1:1:1 (by weight) for each component may
be advantageous when a third component is used in one of the steps
of the invention. This 1:1:1 ratio allows the user to dose the
different component in a simple way, as well as allow a simple
calculation of the concentration of the oxidizing agent on-head. A
concentration of 3% hydrogen peroxide on-head can for example be
thus obtained by using a 9% concentrated hydrogen peroxide
oxidizing component.
Packaging
[0068] Before use, the different components used in the invention
are normally packaged separately from one another. The components
may be packaged separate primary packages such as plastic bottle or
sachet. The components, in particular each component of a
two-component composition, may however be packaged separately but
within a common secondary package such as a carton or in different
compartment of an aerosol or foam bottle, as in known in the trade.
A conditioning composition, which can be applied after rinsing of
the hair coloring composition, may also be packaged in such
secondary package. On the other hand, the different components of
the invention, in particular the third component, may be sold
separately from the other components.
Application to the Hair
[0069] Application of the hair coloring composition to the hair may
be undertaken in several ways. Application of the hair coloring
composition may take place on the whole head of hair of an end
user. As used herein, the "whole head of hair" means that the hair
all over the head from the root of the hair to the tip of the hair
is included in the application process. By contrast, the
application of the hair coloring composition may take place on the
root portion of the hair. The application to the root portion of
the hair may still be over the entire head of the end user, but
application of the hair coloring composition is applied only to the
section of hair closest to the head (root portion), which is
between about 0.01 mm to about 4 mm from the scalp of the head.
Also, application may take place on a portion of hair. Application
of a portion of hair is commonly referred to as highlighting or
lowlighting. The portion of hair may be physically separated from
the whole head of hair in a hair bundle or may be a smaller portion
of hair than the whole head of hair. A hair bundle may be
physically separated from a whole head of hair by a device
including a plastic cap through which hair bundles are formed when
hair is pulled through orifices in the plastic cap, metal foils
encompassing a hair bundle, strand separators applied to hair at
the root portion, or similar devices.
[0070] When present, an optional conditioning agent can be provided
in an additional container. In the latter case, the conditioner can
be mixed immediately before use and applied together with the other
components, or the content of the additional container can be
applied (after an optional rinse step) as a post-treatment
immediately after the hair coloring composition.
[0071] According to one method for oxidatively coloring hair, the
method comprises mixing a tint component and an oxidizing component
and optionally a third component comprising a second non-ammonia
alkalizing agent together to form a hair coloring composition,
applying the hair coloring composition to the hair to form a
treated hair surface, waiting for a period of 5-45 minutes, such as
20-30 minutes, and then removing the hair coloring composition from
the treated hair surface.
[0072] The methods of coloring hair also may further comprise
working the hair coloring composition into the treated hair surface
by hand or by a tool for a few minutes to ensure uniform
application to the entire treated hair surface. The hair coloring
composition remains on the treated hair surface while the end hair
color develops for a time period of 5 to 45 minutes to form
oxidatively colored hair. The consumer then rinses his/her
oxidatively colored hair thoroughly with tap water and allows it to
dry and/or styles the oxidatively colored hair.
Examples
[0073] The following examples demonstrate the advantages of the
present invention. The following abbreviations are used for the
different components:
[0074] CT: ColorTouch.RTM. (a "Level 2" coloring composition with
MEA as alkalizing agent) in particular the shade 10/0 and 7/3
("CT10/0" and "CT7/3" respectively). The INCI list and percentage
weight range for CT10/0 are: (>10%:) Aqua, (1%-10%:) Cetearyl
Alcohol, Ethanolamine, Sodium Sulfate, Laureth-3, Sodium Laureth
Sulfate, Glyceryl Stearate SE, (0.1%-1%:) Decyltetradecanol, Sodium
Lauryl Sulfate, Cera Alba, Parfum, Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate, Mica,
Sodium Sulfite, Ascorbic Acid, Etidronic acid, Hydrolyzed Keratin,
(<0.1%:) Colorant, Citric acid.
[0075] The INCI list and percentage weight range for CT7/3 are:
(>10%:) Aqua; (1%-10%:) Cetearyl Alcohol, Ethanolamine, Sodium
Sulfate, Laureth-3, Sodium Laureth Sulfate, Sodium Sulfate,
Glyceryl Stearate SE; (0.1%-1%:) Decyltetradecanol, Sodium Lauryl
Sulfate, Toluene-2,5-Diamine Sulfate, Cera Alba, Parfum, Sodium
Cocoyl Isethionate, Mica, Sodium Sulfite, 2-Methylresorcinol,
Ascorbic Acid, Hydrolyzed Keratin; (<0.1%) Colorant,
m-Aminophenol, 2-Amino-6-Chloro-4-Nitrophenol, Resorcinol, Citric
acid.
[0076] 4% CT Emulsion: ColorTouch.RTM. Oxidizing Emulsion having 4%
H.sub.2O.sub.2 concentration. The INCI list and percentage weight
range for 4% CT Emulsion are (>10%:) Aqua, (1%-10%:) Hydrogen
Peroxide, Cetearyl Alcohol, (0.1%-1%:) Lanolin Alcohol, Sodium
Lauryl Sulfate, Parfum, Salicylic Acid, (<0.1%:) Disodium
Phosphate, Phosphoric Acid, Etidronic Acid, Potassium Phosphate,
Tocopherol.
[0077] 6%, 9% Welloxon: Welloxon.RTM. Emulsion with respectively 6
and 9w. % H.sub.2O.sub.2, comprising as INCI ingredients; Aqua,
Hydrogen Peroxide, Cetearyl Alcohol, Ceteareth-25, Salicylic Acid,
Phosphoric Acid, Disodium Phosphate, Etidronic Acid.
[0078] KP10/0: Koleston Perfect 10/0 (a "Level 3" lightening
component with ammonia as alkalizing agent). The INCI list and
percentage weight range for KP10/0 are (>10%:) Aqua, Cetearyl
Alcohol, (1-10%:) Glyceryl Stearate SE, Ammonium Hydroxide, Sodium
Laureth Sulfate, Lanolin Alcohol, Sodium Lauryl Sulfate, Sodium
Sulfate, Glycol Distearate, Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate, Sodium
sulfite, Ascorbic Acid, Parfum, (<0.1%:), Disodium EDTA,
Toluene-2,5-Diamine Sulfate, 2-Methylresorcinol, Citric Acid,
Resorcinol, Tocopherol.
[0079] All these components are marketed products from Wella, a
German subsidiary of the Procter & Gamble Company.
[0080] The third component ("Booster") according to the invention
was an O/W emulsion with the following formula:
TABLE-US-00001 TABLE 1 Ingredient Percent Ethanolamine 9 Cetearyl
Alcohol (and) Sodium Lauryl Sulfate 7 (90:10 ratio) Sodium Sulfite
4 Laureth-3 3 Glyceral Distearate SE 2.2 Decyltetradecanol 0.8
Beeswax 0.5 Perfume 0.5 Gleamer Flake 0.5 Sodium cocoyl isothianate
0.2 Water q. s.
[0081] In the following experiment, the CT tint component was mixed
in a 1:2 weight ratio with the oxidizing component if the Booster
was not used (two-component mix). The KP tint component was mixed
in a 1:1 ratio with the oxidizing component to reflect usual
practice. If the Booster was used to make a three-components mix,
then each component was mixed in a 1:1:1 ratio.
[0082] In a first set of experiment, the shade 10/0 (natural bright
blond) was used for both KP and CT. After mixing, the resulting
lightening compositions were applied on tresses of medium brown
hair 1.4 cm wide, 13 cm long with a development time of 35 mn on a
ratio of 4 gram composition for 1 gram of hair. The hair was then
shampooed and conditioned with standard products. The amount of
lift obtained was then measured using a Konica/Minolta D 508
Colorimeter and characterized by the difference in L* value
measured. The results and the composition's concentration in MEA
and H.sub.2O.sub.2 are summarized in the Table below.
TABLE-US-00002 TABLE 2 Mixing ratio w. % of MEA in the w. %
H.sub.2O.sub.2 in the Composition tested of the components
.DELTA.L* measured composition composition CT10/0 + 4% CT 1:2 1.16
1.33 2.7 Emulsion CT10/0 + Booster + 1:1:1 2.95 4.33 1.33 4% CT
Emulsion CT10/0 + 6% 1:2 1.42 1.33 4 Welloxon CT10/0 + Booster +
1:1:1 3.60 4.33 2 6% Welloxon CT10/0 + Booster + 1:1:1 4.85 4.33 3
9% Welloxon CT10/0 + Booster + 1:1:1 4.72 4.33 4 12% Welloxon
KP10/0 + 9% 1:1 4.18 -- 4.5 Welloxon KP10/0 + 12% 1:1 5.97 -- 6
Welloxon
[0083] This experiment shows that the third component ("Booster")
can significantly increase the level of lift provided by a hair
coloring composition comprising a non-ammonia alkalizing agent. For
example comparing the first two compositions of the table, the lift
(.DELTA.L*) went from 1.16 for a composition without the Booster to
2.95 for a composition with the Booster using the same tint and
oxidizing components (CT10/0 and 4% CT Emulsion). Surprisingly, the
amount of lift went up even as the concentration in peroxide was
roughly halved. Although not wishing to be bound by theory, the
inventors hypothesize that this surprising effect is caused by the
raised level of non-ammonia alkalizing agent (MEA).
[0084] The results are even more striking when an oxidizing agent
is used in a more concentrated form in the three component system,
as the lift can then be even higher, e.g. 3.60 with a 6%
concentrated H.sub.2O.sub.2 component (2% H.sub.2O.sub.2 on-head)
or 4.85 with a 9% concentrated H.sub.2O.sub.2 component (3%
on-head), and approaches or overtakes the performance of a marketed
Level 3 product (KP+9% Welloxon). However increasing the level of
peroxide in the oxidizing component to 12% when the third component
is used did not lead to more lift, as a plateau seems to be
reached.
[0085] The table 2 above showed that the lift can be improved when
using a third component of the present invention. The inventors
have further found that there was little "color shift" between the
coloring compositions obtained by mixing two components compared to
when three components according to the invention are mixed. This
was surprising for the inventors, as it was expected that changing
the concentration in alkalizing agent and oxidizing agent would
significantly change the tonality of the end result. Change of
tonality, or "color shift" can be measured by comparing a*, b*
values, preferably measured on natural white hair to eliminate the
influence of the natural melanin. It is generally considered that
there is no significant color lift when both .DELTA.a* and
.DELTA.b* values are of less than 2.
[0086] The following table shows the measured .DELTA.a* and
.DELTA.b* values after a coloration with and without the third
component. The shade of CT used was 7/3 (medium blond). Natural
white hair were treated as indicated above and the a*, b* values
measured. Hair colored with CT7/3+4% CT Emulsion was taken as
reference and the .DELTA.a* and .DELTA.b* values calculated using
this reference.
TABLE-US-00003 TABLE 3 Composition tested .DELTA.a* .DELTA.b* CT7/3
+ 6% Welloxon + 0.20 0.77 Booster CT7/3 + 9% Welloxon + 0.29 0.39
Booster
[0087] This experiment shows that the third component had little
impact on the tonality obtained on white natural hair. This is
particularly useful as it shows that existing two-component
composition (e.g. Level 2) can have their lift power increased by
the third component ("Booster") without a significant impact on the
tonality.
Remark
[0088] The dimensions and values disclosed herein are not to be
understood as being strictly limited to the exact numerical values
recited. Instead, unless otherwise specified, each such dimension
is intended to mean both the recited value and a functionally
equivalent range surrounding that value. For example, a dimension
disclosed as "40 mm" is intended to mean "about 40 mm".
[0089] Every document cited herein, including any cross referenced
or related patent or application, is hereby incorporated herein by
reference in its entirety unless expressly excluded or otherwise
limited. The citation of any document is not an admission that it
is prior art with respect to any invention disclosed or claimed
herein or that it alone, or in any combination with any other
reference or references, teaches, suggests or discloses any such
invention. Further, to the extent that any meaning or definition of
a term in this document conflicts with any meaning or definition of
the same term in a document incorporated by reference, the meaning
or definition assigned to that term in this document shall
govern.
[0090] "While particular embodiments of the present invention have
been illustrated and described, it would be obvious to those
skilled in the art that various other changes and modifications can
be made without departing from the spirit and scope of the
invention. It is therefore intended to cover in the appended claims
all such changes and modifications that are within the scope of
this invention.
* * * * *