U.S. patent application number 13/392172 was filed with the patent office on 2013-02-14 for process for permanent shaping of the hair using ultrasound.
This patent application is currently assigned to L'OREAL. The applicant listed for this patent is Maxime De Boni, Gregory Plos. Invention is credited to Maxime De Boni, Gregory Plos.
Application Number | 20130037044 13/392172 |
Document ID | / |
Family ID | 43033348 |
Filed Date | 2013-02-14 |
United States Patent
Application |
20130037044 |
Kind Code |
A1 |
Plos; Gregory ; et
al. |
February 14, 2013 |
PROCESS FOR PERMANENT SHAPING OF THE HAIR USING ULTRASOUND
Abstract
The invention relates to a process for permanent reshaping of
keratin fibres, in particular of the hair, comprising: a) a step of
applying, to the keratin fibres, a reducing composition containing
one or more reducing agents chosen from non-sulphur-containing
reducing agents, protective thiols, sulphites, bisulphites or
derivatives of sulphinic acid, b) an optional step of rinsing said
fibres, then c) an optional step of fixing by oxidation,
characterized in that the process comprises a step d) of applying,
to the keratin fibres, ultrasonic waves delivered by a generator
supplying mechanical vibrations of which the frequency is between
20 kHz and 1000 kHz, step d) being carried out after or during step
a), it being possible for the process to optionally comprise a step
e) of placing the keratin fibres under mechanical tension by means
of a device capable of imposing a shape on said fibres.
Inventors: |
Plos; Gregory; (Paris,
FR) ; De Boni; Maxime; (Shinjuku-ku, JP) |
|
Applicant: |
Name |
City |
State |
Country |
Type |
Plos; Gregory
De Boni; Maxime |
Paris
Shinjuku-ku |
|
FR
JP |
|
|
Assignee: |
L'OREAL
Paris
FR
|
Family ID: |
43033348 |
Appl. No.: |
13/392172 |
Filed: |
August 25, 2010 |
PCT Filed: |
August 25, 2010 |
PCT NO: |
PCT/EP2010/062398 |
371 Date: |
September 15, 2012 |
Related U.S. Patent Documents
|
|
|
|
|
|
Application
Number |
Filing Date |
Patent Number |
|
|
61239505 |
Sep 3, 2009 |
|
|
|
61239502 |
Sep 3, 2009 |
|
|
|
Current U.S.
Class: |
132/204 ;
132/221 |
Current CPC
Class: |
A45D 2200/207 20130101;
A45D 7/06 20130101 |
Class at
Publication: |
132/204 ;
132/221 |
International
Class: |
A45D 7/04 20060101
A45D007/04; A45D 2/00 20060101 A45D002/00 |
Foreign Application Data
Date |
Code |
Application Number |
Aug 26, 2009 |
FR |
0955815 |
Aug 26, 2009 |
FR |
0955816 |
Claims
1-14. (canceled)
15. A method of shaping keratin fibers, said method comprising: a.
applying a reducing composition to the keratin fibers, wherein said
reducing composition contains at least one reducing agent chosen
from non-sulphur-containing reducing agents, protective thiols,
sulphites, bisulphites, and derivatives of sulphinic acid; b.
optionally rinsing the keratin fibers; c. optionally fixing the
keratin fibers with an oxidation compound; d. applying ultrasonic
waves to the keratin fibers, said ultrasonic waves having a
frequency ranging from about 20 kHz to about 1000 kHz; and e.
optionally placing the keratin fibers under mechanical tension by a
device configured to impose a shape on keratin fibers through means
of mechanical tension; wherein step (d) is carried out during or
after step (a).
16. The method of claim 15, wherein the frequency of the ultrasonic
waves ranges from about 25 kHz to about 500 kHz.
17. The method of claim 15, wherein the frequency of the ultrasonic
waves ranges from about 30 kHz to about 100 kHz.
18. The method of claim 15, wherein ultrasonic waves are applied to
the keratin fibers by means of a device configured to impose a
shape on keratin fibers by means of mechanical tension.
19. The method of claim 15, wherein the device configured to impose
a shape on keratin fibers is chosen from ultrasound-emitting
curlers, ultrasound-emitting straightening tongs, and
ultrasound-emitting curling tongs.
20. The method of claim 15, wherein the ultrasonic waves are
applied to the keratin fibers by a device that is different from
the device configured to impose a shape on keratin fibers.
21. The method of claim 15, wherein the device configured to impose
a shape on keratin fibers is chosen from probes and guns.
22. The method of claim 15, wherein the at least one reducing agent
is chosen from non-sulphur-containing reducing agents chosen from
phosphines, alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal borohydrides,
reducing sugars, and reductones.
23. The method of claim 15, wherein the at least one reducing agent
is chosen from sulphites, bisulphites, and derivatives of sulphinic
acid.
24. The method of claim 23, wherein the at least one reducing agent
is chosen from alkali metal and alkaline-earth metal sulphites and
bisulphites; ammonium sulphites and bisulphites; and alkanolamine
sulphites and bisulphites.
25. The method of claim 15, wherein the at least one reducing agent
is chosen from protective thiols chosen from thioesters,
thiocarbonates, thiocarbamates, and thioethers.
26. The method of claim 15, wherein the pH of the reducing
composition ranges from about 2 to about 13.
27. The method of claim 15, wherein the pH of the reducing
composition ranges from about 7 to about 11.
28. The method of claim 15, wherein the oxidation compound is
chosen from alkali metal bromates and hydrogen peroxide.
29. A kit comprising: a device configured to apply a mechanical
tension to keratin fibers to impose a shape on keratin fibers; a
device configured to deliver ultrasonic waves having a frequency
ranging from about 20 kHz to about 1000 kHz to keratin fibers; and
a compartment containing a reducing composition comprising at least
one reducing agent chosen from non-sulphur-containing reducing
agents, protective thiols, sulphites, bisulphites, and derivatives
of sulphinic acid.
30. The kit of claim 29, wherein the device configured to apply a
mechanical tension to keratin fibers and the device configured to
deliver ultrasonic waves are identical.
31. The kit of claim 29, wherein the device configured to apply a
mechanical tension to keratin fibers and the device configured to
deliver ultrasonic waves are different.
Description
[0001] The subject of the invention is a process for permanent
reshaping of the hair using a reducing composition and ultrasound.
The invention also relates to a kit comprising a reducing
composition and a device generating ultrasonic waves (ultrasound)
at a predetermined frequency.
[0002] The most common technique for permanently reshaping the hair
consists, in a first stage, in opening the --S--S-- disulphide
bonds of keratin (kerato-cystine) using a composition containing a
suitable reducing agent (reduction step) and then, after having
rinsed the head of hair thus treated, generally with water, in
reforming said disulphide bonds, in a second stage, by applying to
the hair, which has been placed under tension beforehand, for
example with curlers, an oxidizing composition (oxidation step,
also known as fixing step) so as to finally give the hair the
desired shape. This technique thus makes it possible to make the
hair wavy (permanent-wave process) and/or smooth out (straighten)
the hair. The new shape imposed on the hair via a chemical
treatment as above is evidently long-lasting and especially
resistant to the action of washing with water or with shampoo, as
opposed to simple standard techniques of temporary reshaping, such
as hairsetting.
[0003] Permanent reshaping processes that are more efficient, more
cosmetic and less harmful to keratin fibres and that lead to
longer-lasting hair reshaping are constantly being sought.
[0004] In order to improve the performance levels of permanent
reshaping processes, the compositions generally used contain large
concentrations of reducing agent (s). With the same aim, a heating
process during the reduction step or after the latter has also been
developed, in order to increase the chemical action of the reducing
agent(s). These techniques use hot air, hot steam or infrared to
heat the hair fixed on a roller or a curler, which may itself be
heated.
[0005] It has been observed that these technologies do not lead to
a significant improvement in terms of production and longevity of
the hair reshaping, for instance curls, when compared with the
standard techniques at ambient temperature. Furthermore, the
treated hair shows substantial degradation, which hinders users
from performing repeated hair treatments, such as successive
permanent-waving operations or smoothing-out (straightening)
operations or a combination of permanent-waving and dyeing, for
example.
[0006] The problem addressed by the invention is that of finding a
process for permanent reshaping of the hair which provides,
compared with the prior art processes: [0007] curls of improved
shape and liveliness in the case of permanent-waving, [0008] an
improved reduction in volume in the case of hair straightening,
[0009] less degradation of the fibre, in particular with successive
applications and in combination with other chemical treatments such
as oxidation dyeing, [0010] a longer lasting artificial shape in
the face of various attacks (shampooing, blow drying, UV exposure,
etc.), [0011] a satisfactory cosmetic aspect after treatment,
[0012] results of hairsetting more readily predictable according to
the nature and the state of degradation of the hair to be
treated.
[0013] Thus, the invention relates to a process for permanent
reshaping of keratin fibres, in particular of the hair,
comprising:
[0014] a) a step of applying, to the keratin fibres, a reducing
composition containing one or more reducing agents chosen from
non-sulphur-containing reducing agents, protective thiols,
sulphites, bisulphites or derivatives of sulphinic acid,
[0015] b) an optional step of rinsing said fibres, then
[0016] c) an optional step of fixing by oxidation, characterized in
that the process comprises a step d) of applying, to the keratin
fibres, ultrasonic waves delivered by a generator supplying
mechanical vibrations of which the frequency is between 20 kHz and
1000 kHz, step d) being carried out after or during step a), it
being possible for the process to optionally comprise a step e) of
placing the keratin fibres under mechanical tension by means of a
device capable of imposing a shape on said fibres.
[0017] The expression "process for permanent reshaping of keratin
fibres" is intended to mean processes for permanent-waving,
smoothing or relaxing of keratin fibres.
[0018] The invention also relates to a kit.
[0019] Other characteristics, aspects, subjects and advantages of
the present invention will be more clearly apparent on reading the
description which follows.
[0020] During step e), the placing of the keratin fibres under
mechanical tension can be done over the entire length of the hair
or at mid-length on long hair. Depending on the shape of the
hairstyle, the hair shaping can be carried out with more or less
thick locks.
[0021] According to a first embodiment of the process according to
the invention, the device of step e) which imposes the desired
shape on the hair also emits the ultrasonic waves of step d). In
this case, the device of step e) comprises a generator supplying
mechanical vibrations of which the frequency is between 20 kHz and
1000 kHz, so as to produce the ultrasound. It also has one or more
means capable of imposing a shape on the hair.
[0022] According to this first variant of the invention, mention
may be made, as a device for placing under mechanical tension of
step e) comprising a generator of ultrasonic waves, of
ultrasound-emitting curlers, ultrasound-emitting straightening
tongs or ultrasound-emitting curling tongs.
[0023] According to a second embodiment of the process according to
the invention, the device of step e) which imposes the desired
shape on the hair and that of step d) which emits ultrasound are
distinct devices.
[0024] In this case, the device for placing under mechanical
tension of step e) may be a curler, straightening tongs or curling
tongs. The generator of step d) can be a fixed or portable device
which delivers ultrasound and which is, if possible, readily
positionable on a head of hair or a curler.
[0025] If it is a fixed device delivering ultrasound, it can be a
hood or a bonnet.
[0026] If it is a portable device delivering ultrasound, it can be
a probe or a gun.
[0027] Step a) of applying, to the keratin fibres, a reducing
composition so as to reduce the disulphide bonds of keratin can be
followed by an optional leave-in time.
[0028] According to one variant of the process according to the
invention, step a) of applying, to the keratin fibres, the reducing
composition can precede step e) of placing the keratin fibres under
mechanical tension, with or without a leave-in time. In this case,
the reducing step is carried out with the fibres in the original
form, i.e. on fibres not placed under tension.
[0029] Advantageously, the pH of the reducing composition according
to the invention is between 2 and 13.
[0030] The pH of the reducing composition according to the
invention is preferably between 7 and 11.
[0031] The reducing composition used in the process according to
the invention comprises, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, one
or more reducing agents, said reducing agent(s) being chosen from
non-sulphur-containing reducing agents or protective thiols,
sulphites, bisulphites or derivatives of sulphinic acid.
[0032] For the purpose of the present invention, the term
"protective thiol" is intended to mean any molecule capable of
generating a thiol by chemical reaction or simple photochemistry
(hydrolysis, for example).
[0033] Among the protective thiols that can be used according to
the invention, mention may be made of thioesters, thiocarbonates,
thiocarbamates and thioethers.
[0034] Said reducing agent(s) can also be chosen from sulphites,
bisulphites or derivatives of sulphinic acid.
[0035] By way of sulphites and bisulphites that can be used in the
composition according to the invention, mention may be made of
alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal or ammonium sulphites or
bisulphites, and in particular sodium sulphite or bisulphite,
potassium sulphite or bisulphite or alkanolamine sulphites or
bisulphites, such as monoethanolamine sulphite or bisulphite.
Examples of derivatives of sulphinic acid are given in application
FR2814948.
[0036] Preferably, the reducing agent(s) is (are) chosen from
non-sulphur-containing reducing agents. For the purposes of the
present invention, the term "non-sulphur-containing reducing agent"
is intended to means a reducing agent which comprises no sulphur
atom in its structure.
[0037] The non-sulphur-containing reducing agent(s) included in the
composition according to the invention is (are) preferably chosen
from phosphines, alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal borohydrides,
reducing sugars and reductones.
[0038] By way of phosphines that can be used in the composition
according to the invention, mention may be made of the
monophosphines or diphosphines as described in application
FR2870119.
[0039] By way of borohydrides that can be used in the composition
according to the invention, mention may be made of sodium
borohydride or potassium borohydride.
[0040] By way of reducing sugars, mention may be made, in a
nonlimiting manner, of ribose, glucose, maltose, galactose, lactose
or xylose.
[0041] Among the reductones of the invention, ascorbic acid and
erythorbic acid are preferred.
[0042] The reducing agent(s) generally represent(s) from 0.01% to
50%, preferably from 0.5% to 15%, by weight, relative to the total
weight of the reducing composition.
[0043] For the purpose of improving the cosmetic properties of the
hair or alternatively of reducing or avoiding degradation thereof,
the reducing composition may also contain a treating agent or
cationic, anionic, non-ionic, or amphoteric nature.
[0044] Among the treating agents which are particularly preferred,
mention may in particular be made of those described in French
Patent Application No. 2 598 613. Use may also be made, as treating
agents, of linear or cyclic, volatile or non-volatile silicones or
mixtures thereof, polydimethylsiloxanes, quaternized
polyorganosiloxanes such as those described in French Patent
Application No. 2 535 730, polyorganosiloxanes containing
aminoalkyl groups modified with alkoxycarbonylalkyl groups, such as
those described in U.S. Pat. No. 4,749,732, polyorganosiloxanes
such as the polyoxy-alkyl polydimethylsiloxane copolymer of the
Dimethicone Copolyol type, a polydimethylsiloxane containing
stearoxy end groups (stearoxy dimethicone), a dialkylammonium
acetate polydimethylsiloxane copolymer or a polydimethylsiloxane
polyalkylbetaine copolymer described in British Patent Application
No. 2 197 352, and also silanes such as
stearoxytrimethylsilane.
[0045] The reducing composition may in particular contain cationic
polymers such as those used in the compositions of French Patents
FR-A-2 472 382 and FR-A-495 931, or else cationic polymers of the
ionene type, such as those used in the compositions of Luxembourg
Patent No. 83703. It may also contain basic amino acids (such as
lysine or arginine) or acidic amino acids (such as glutamic acid or
aspartic acid), peptides and derivatives thereof, protein
hydrolysates, waxes, swelling agents and penetrating agents or
agents for reinforcing the efficiency of the reducing agent, such
as the SiO.sub.2/PDMS (polydimethylsiloxane) mixture,
dimethylisosorbitol, urea and its derivatives, solvents such as
ethanol, isopropanol, pyrrolidone, N-alkyl-pyrrolidones, alkylene
glycol alkyl ethers or dialkylene glycol alkyl ethers, for instance
propylene glycol monomethyl ether, dipropylene glycol monomethyl
ether, ethylene glycol monoethyl ether and diethylene glycol
monoethyl ether, polyols, for instance glycerol, propane-1,2-diol
and butane-1,2-diol, 2-imidazolidinone, and other compounds such as
fatty alcohols, lanoline derivatives, active ingredients such as
pantothenic acid, agents for preventing hair loss, antidandruff
agents, thickeners, suspending agents, sequestering agents,
opacifiers, dyes, sunscreens, and also fragrances and
preservatives. Preferably, the reducing compositions of the
invention contain one or more polyols.
[0046] The basifying agent preferably used in the compositions of
use according to the invention is an agent for increasing the pH of
the composition(s), in which it is present. The basifying agent is
a Bronsted, Lowry or Lewis base. It may be inorganic or
organic.
[0047] The basifying agent is particularly chosen from:
[0048] a) aqueous ammonia,
[0049] b) alkanolamines such as monoethanolamine, diethanolamine
and triethanolamine, and derivatives thereof,
[0050] c) oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylenated
ethylenediamines,
[0051] d) inorganic or organic hydroxides,
[0052] e) alkali metal silicates such as sodium metasilicates,
[0053] f) amino acids, preferably basic amino acids, such as
arginine, lysine, ornithine, citrulline and histidine,
[0054] g) the compounds of formula (I) below:
##STR00001##
[0055] in which W is a propylene residue optionally substituted
with a hydroxyl group or a C1-C4 alkyl radical; Ra, Rb, Rc and Rd,
which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a
C1-C4 alkyl or C1-C4 hydroxyalkyl radical.
[0056] The inorganic or organic hydroxides are preferably chosen
from a) hydroxides of an alkali metal, b) hydroxides of an
alkaline-earth metal, for instance sodium hydroxide or potassium
hydroxide, c) hydroxides of a transition metal, such as hydroxides
of metals from groups III, IV, V and VI, d) lanthanide or actinide
hydroxides, quaternary ammonium hydroxides and guanidinium
hydroxide.
[0057] The hydroxide may be formed in situ, for instance guanidine
hydroxide by reacting calcium hydroxide and guanidine
carbonate.
[0058] Aqueous ammonia, monoethanolamine, arginine and lysine are
preferred.
[0059] The basifying agent(s) as defined previously preferably
represent(s) from 0.001% to 10% by weight of the weight of the
composition containing them, more particularly from 0.005% to 8% by
weight of the composition. This concentration depends in particular
on the desired pH of the reducing composition.
[0060] According to one preferred embodiment, the reducing agent is
left to act for a time of from 1 to 50 minutes, preferably for 1 to
30 minutes. Preferably, the reducing composition is applied to
clean, wet hair fibres.
[0061] The process then optionally comprises a step b) of rinsing
the keratin fibres.
[0062] Preferably, the process according to the invention comprises
a rinsing step b).
[0063] The process according to the invention optionally comprises
a step c) of fixing by oxidation, so as to reform the disulphide
bonds, by application, to the keratin fibres, of an oxidizing
composition containing one or more oxidizing agents, optionally
followed by a leave-in time.
[0064] The oxidizing composition generally comprises one or more
oxidizing agents chosen from hydrogen peroxide, urea peroxide,
alkali metal bromates, polythionates, and persalts such as
perborates, percarbonates and persulphates.
[0065] Preferably, the oxidizing agent is chosen from alkali metal
bromates and hydrogen peroxide.
[0066] The oxidizing agent(s) generally represent(s) from 0.1% to
15%, preferably from 0.5% to 10%, by weight, relative to the total
weight of the oxidizing composition.
[0067] Preferably, when the oxidizing agent is hydrogen peroxide in
aqueous solution, the oxidizing composition used in the process
according to the invention contains at least one agent for
stabilizing aqueous hydrogen peroxide solution.
[0068] Mention may in particular be made of alkali metal or
alkaline-earth metal pyrophosphates, such as tetrasodium
pyrophosphate, alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal stannates,
phenacetin or acid salts of oxyquinoline, such as oxyquinoline
sulphate. Even more advantageously, at least one stannate
optionally in combination with at least one pyrophosphate is
used.
[0069] The agent(s) for stabilizing aqueous hydrogen peroxide
solution generally represent(s) from 0.0001% to 5% by weight, and
preferably from 0.01% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight
of the oxidizing composition.
[0070] Generally, the pH of the oxidizing composition ranges from
1.5 to 9, preferably from 2 to 8.
[0071] Preferably, the oxidizing composition as defined above is
left to act for approximately 2 to 30 minutes, preferably from 2 to
15 minutes, more particularly from 2 to 7 minutes.
[0072] The process according to the invention comprises a step d)
of applying, to the keratin fibres, ultrasonic waves delivered by a
generator supplying mechanical vibrations of which the frequency is
between 20 kHz and 1000 kHz.
[0073] Preferably, the frequency of the ultrasonic waves is between
25 kHz and 500 kHz, and more preferably between 30 kHz and 100
kHz.
[0074] The ultrasonic waves can be applied to the hair impregnated
with the composition comprising one or more non-thiolated reducing
agents. In one particular case of the invention, the ultrasonic
waves and the reducing composition can be applied sequentially. For
example, in a first stage, the reducing composition is applied to
the head of hair and then rinsed out; the ultrasonic waves are then
applied to the head of hair thus "pretreated".
[0075] The ultrasonic waves can also be delivered during the
oxidation step or as an intra-treatment, i.e. between the reducing
step and the oxidizing step. The action times for the ultrasonic
waves are between 1 minutes and 1 hour, and preferably between 10
and 30 minutes.
[0076] Preferably, the process which is the subject of the
invention comprises a step of applying a care composition
containing one or more non-silicone cationic polymers or one or
more silicones, preferably amino silicones.
[0077] Among all the non-silicone cationic polymers that can be
used in the context of the present invention, cyclopolymers, in
particular the dimethyldiallylammonium chloride homopolymers sold
under the name Merquat 100 by the company Nalco, and quaternary
diammonium polymers, and in particular Mexomere PO from the company
Chimex, are preferably used in the reducing composition.
[0078] The preferred silicone is the Wacker Belsil ADM LOG 1
silicone from the company Wacker.
[0079] A step of applying a care composition makes it possible to
limit or prevent sensitization of the hair which could result from
the treatment of the hair with reducing agents and oxidizing agents
during the permanent reshaping process which is the subject of the
invention. The care composition as defined above also makes it
possible to protect the artificial colour of the hair.
[0080] The carrier of the oxidizing and care compositions is
preferably an aqueous medium constituted of water, and can
advantageously contain cosmetically acceptable organic solvents,
including, more particularly, alcohols such as ethyl alcohol,
isopropyl alcohol, benzyl alcohol and phenylethyl alcohol, or
polyols or polyol ethers, for instance ethylene glycol monomethyl,
monoethyl and monobutyl ethers, propylene glycol and its ethers,
for instance propylene glycol monomethyl ether, butylene glycol,
glycerol, dipropylene glycol, and also diethylene glycol alkyl
ethers, for instance diethylene glycol monoethyl ether or monobutyl
ether. The organic solvents may then be present in concentrations
of between approximately 0.1% and 20%, and preferably between
approximately 1% and 10%, by weight, relative to the total weight
of the composition.
[0081] The pHs of the oxidizing composition and of the care
composition which are used in the process according to the
invention can be obtained and/or adjusted conventionally by adding
either one or more alkaline agents, such as those already mentioned
in the reducing composition, or acidifying agents such as, for
example, hydrochloric acid, acetic acid, lactic acid, boric acid,
citric acid and phosphoric acid.
[0082] The reducing composition, the oxidizing composition and the
care composition which are used in the process according to the
invention can, independently of one another, be in the form of a
thickened or non-thickened lotion, a cream, a gel or a foam.
[0083] A subject of the invention is also a kit combining at least:
[0084] a device (A) comprising one or more means for placing
keratin fibres under tension, and [0085] a device (B) comprising
one or more means for applying, to the keratin fibres, ultrasonic
waves delivered by a generator supplying mechanical vibrations of
which the frequency is between 20 kHz and 1000 kHz, [0086] a
compartment containing a reducing composition containing one or
more reducing agents chosen from non-sulphur-containing reducing
agents, protective thiols, sulphites, bisulphites or derivatives of
sulphinic acid,
[0087] the devices (A) and (B) being identical or different.
[0088] Optionally, the kit may contain a cosmetic composition
containing at least one oxidizing agent.
[0089] In addition, the invention relates to a process for
permanent reshaping of keratin fibres, in particular of the hair,
comprising:
[0090] a) a step of applying, to the keratin fibres, a composition
comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, one or more
inorganic or organic hydroxides, the pH of said composition ranging
from 10 to 14,
[0091] b) an optional step of rinsing said fibres, characterized in
that the process comprises a step c) of applying, to the keratin
fibres, ultrasonic waves delivered by a generator supplying
mechanical vibrations of which the frequency is between 20 kHz and
1000 kHz, step c) being carried out during or after step a), it
being possible for the process to optionally comprise a step d) of
placing the keratin fibres under mechanical tension by means of a
device capable of imposing a shape on said fibres.
[0092] The description which follows concerns this embodiment of
the process.
[0093] The process according to the invention comprises a step a)
of applying, to the keratin fibres, a composition comprising, in a
cosmetically acceptable medium, one or more inorganic or organic
hydroxides.
[0094] For the purpose of the present invention, the term
"hydroxide" is intended to mean a compound capable of releasing
hydroxide ions.
[0095] The composition of step a) according to the invention
comprises one or more inorganic or organic hydroxides, the pH of
the composition ranging from 10 to 14.
[0096] More particularly, the inorganic or organic hydroxide is
chosen from alkali metal hydroxides, alkaline-earth metal
hydroxides, transition metal hydroxides, said transition metal
being in particular from groups IIIB, IVB, VB and VIB, lanthanide
or actinide hydroxides, ammonium hydroxides, guanidine hydroxide,
or mixtures thereof.
[0097] By way of hydroxide compounds that can be used according to
the invention in step a), mention may in particular be made of
sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, lithium hydroxide, caesium
hydroxide, magnesium hydroxide, calcium hydroxide and guanidine
hydroxide.
[0098] It should be noted that certain hydroxides, and more
particularly guanidine hydroxide, can be in the form of precursors,
i.e. of at least two compounds which, when brought into contact,
result in guanidine hydroxide. Mention may be made of the
combination of an alkaline-earth metal hydroxide, for instance
calcium hydroxide, with guanidine carbonate.
[0099] The pH of the composition of step a) ranges from 10 to 14,
and preferably from 12 to 14.
[0100] The composition of step a) used in the process according to
the invention is generally in the form of an emulsion, preferably
an oil-in-water or water-in-oil emulsion.
[0101] When the composition of step a) used according to the
invention is in emulsion form, it generally contains at least one
non-ionic, anionic, cationic or amphoteric emulsifier.
[0102] The emulsifiers are chosen appropriately according to the
emulsion to be obtained: water-in-oil (W/O) or oil-in-water (O/W)
emulsion.
[0103] For the oil-in-water (O/W) emulsions, mention may, for
example, be made of the following emulsifiers: [0104] as amphoteric
emulsifiers, N-acylamino acids such as N-alkylaminoacetates and
disodium cocoamphodiacetate, and amine oxides such as stearamine
oxide; [0105] as anionic emulsifiers, acylglutamates such as
"disodium hydrogenated tallow glutamate" (Amisoft HS-21.RTM. sold
by the company Ajinomoto); carboxylic acids and their salts, such
as sodium stearate; phosphoric esters and their salts, such as "DEA
oleth-10 phosphate"; sulphosuccinates such as "Disodium PEG-5
citrate lauryl sulphosuccinate" and "Disodium ricinoleamido MEA
sulphosuccinate"; [0106] as cationic emulsifiers,
alkylimidazolidiniums such as isostearylethylimidonium
ethosulphate; ammonium salts such as
N,N,N-trimethyl-1-docosanaminium chloride (behentrimonium
chloride); [0107] as non-ionic emulsifiers, esters and ethers of
saccharides, such as sucrose stearate, sucrose cocoate, and the
mixture of sorbitan stearate and sucrose cocoate sold by the
company ICI under the name Arlatone 2121.RTM.; polyol esters, in
particular glycerol esters or sorbitol esters, such as glyceryl
stearate, polyglyceryl-2 stearate, sorbitan stearate; glycerol
ethers; oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylenated ethers, such as the
oxyethylenated, oxypropylenated ether of lauryl alcohol containing
25 oxyethylenated groups and 25 oxypropylenated groups (CTFA name
"PPG-25 laureth-25") and the oxyethylenated ether of the mixture of
C.sub.12-C.sub.15 fatty alcohols comprising 7 oxyethylenated groups
(CTFA name "C.sub.12-C.sub.15 Pareth-7"); ethylene glycol polymers,
such as PEG-100, and mixtures thereof.
[0108] One or more of these emulsifiers may be used.
[0109] For the water-in-oil (W/O) emulsions, mention may be made,
as examples of emulsifiers, of polyol fatty esters, in particular
fatty esters of glycerol or of sorbitol, and in particular
isostearyl, oleyl and ricinoleyl esters of a polyol, such as the
mixture of petrolatum, polyglyceryl-3 oleate, glyceryl isostearate,
hydrogenated castor oil and ozokerite, sold under the name Protegin
W.RTM. by the company Goldschmidt, sorbitan isostearate,
polyglyceryl diisostearate, polyglyceryl-2 sesquiisostearate;
esters and ethers of saccharides such as "methyl glucose dioleate";
fatty esters such as magnesium lanolate; dimethicone copolyols and
alkyl dimethicone copolyols, such as the lauryl methicone copolyol
sold under the name Dow Corning 5200 Formulation Aid by the company
Dow Corning; the cetyl dimethicone copolyol sold under the name
Abil EM 90.RTM. by the company Goldschmidt, and the dimethicone
copolyol sold under the name KF-6015 by the company Shin-Etsu; and
mixtures thereof.
[0110] In one particular case of the invention, the composition of
step a) may comprise the combination of an alkali metal or
alkaline-earth metal hydroxide with an agent which activates the
breaking of the disulphide bonds of the hair. The activating agent
is in particular cysteine or a cysteine salt, a cysteine derivative
or the corresponding salt, which is optionally substituted, or a
cysteine homologue, which is optionally substituted. The activating
agent may also be a sulphite or bisulphite salt.
[0111] The inorganic or organic hydroxide(s) is (are)
advantageously present in the composition of step a) at a
concentration ranging from 0.2% to 10% by weight, and preferably
from 0.5% to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the
composition.
[0112] When the composition of step a) is applied to the keratin
fibres, its temperature is preferably between 20 and 40.degree. C.,
better still between 25 and 35.degree. C.
[0113] In general, the composition of step a) is left to act for 5
to 60 minutes, preferably from 10 to 20 minutes, in order for the
desired reshaping to take place.
[0114] After step a) of applying the composition comprising one or
more inorganic or organic hydroxides, and after the optional
leave-in time, the keratin fibres are generally rinsed according to
step b), preferably with water.
[0115] Preferably, the process according to the invention comprises
a step b) of rinsing the keratin fibres.
[0116] The process according to the invention comprises a step c)
of applying, to the keratin fibres, ultrasonic waves delivered by a
generator supplying mechanical vibrations of which the frequency is
between 20 kHz and 1000 kHz.
[0117] Preferably, the frequency of the ultrasonic waves is between
25 kHz and 500 kHz, and more preferably between 30 kHz and 100
kHz.
[0118] The ultrasonic waves can be applied to the hair impregnated
with the composition comprising one or more inorganic or organic
hydroxides. In one particular case of the invention, the ultrasonic
waves and the composition comprising one or more inorganic or
organic hydroxides can be supplied sequentially. For example, in a
first stage, the composition comprising one or more inorganic or
organic hydroxides is applied to the head of hair and then rinsed
out; the ultrasonic waves are then applied to the hair thus
"pretreated".
[0119] The action times for the ultrasonic waves are between 1
minute and 1 hour, and preferably between 10 and 30 minutes.
[0120] Preferably, the process which is the subject of the
invention comprises a step of applying a care composition
containing one or more non-silicone cationic polymers or one or
more silicones, preferably amino silicones.
[0121] Among the non-silicone cationic polymers which can be used
in the context of the present invention, cyclopolymers, in
particular the dimethyldiallylammonium chloride homopolymers sold
under the name Merquat 100 by the company Nalco, quaternary
diammonium polymers, and in particular Mexomere PO from the company
Chimex, are preferably used.
[0122] The preferred silicone is the Wacker Belsil ADM LOG 1
silicone from the company Wacker.
[0123] A step of applying a care composition makes it possible to
limit or prevent sensitization of the hair which could result from
the treatment of the hair during the permanent reshaping process
which is the subject of the invention. The care composition as
defined above can also make it possible to protect the artificial
colour of the hair.
[0124] The carrier of the care composition is preferably an aqueous
solution constituted of water and can advantageously contain
cosmetically acceptable organic solvents, including more
particularly alcohols, such as ethyl alcohol, isopropyl alcohol,
benzyl alcohol and phenylethyl alcohol, or polyols or polyol
ethers, for instance ethylene glycol monomethyl, monoethyl and
monobutyl ethers, propylene glycol or its ethers, for instance
propylene glycol monomethyl ether, butylene glycol, glycerol,
dipropylene glycol, and also diethylene glycol alkyl ethers, for
instance diethylene glycol monoethyl ether or monobutyl ether. The
organic solvents can then be present in concentrations of between
approximately 0.1% and 20%, and preferably between approximately 1%
and 10%, by weight, relative to the total weight of the
composition.
[0125] The pH of the care composition optionally used in the
process according to the invention can be obtained and/or adjusted
conventionally by adding either one or more basifying agents, or
acidifying agents such as, for example, hydrochloric acid, acetic
acid, lactic acid, boric acid, citric acid and phosphoric acid.
[0126] The care composition optionally used in the process
according to the invention may be in the form of a thickened or
non-thickened lotion, a cream, a gel or a foam.
[0127] The subject of the invention is also a kit comprising at
least: [0128] a device (A) comprising one or more means for placing
keratin fibres under mechanical tension, and [0129] a device (B)
comprising one or more means for applying, to the keratin fibres,
ultrasonic waves delivered by a generator supplying mechanical
vibrations of which the frequency is between 20 kHz and 1000 kHz,
[0130] a compartment containing a composition comprising, in a
cosmetically acceptable medium, one or more inorganic or organic
hydroxides, the pH of said composition ranging from 10 to 14,
[0131] the devices (A) and (B) being identical or different.
[0132] The following compositions were prepared (as percentage by
mass of the total composition) in order to illustrate the process
using one or more inorganic or organic hydroxides.
Composition 1 (Guanidine Carbonate)
TABLE-US-00001 [0133] Composition 1 Guanidine carbonate 6.4
Demineralized water 93.6
Composition 2 (Guanidine Activator)
TABLE-US-00002 [0134] Composition 2 Calcium hydroxide 45 Propylene
glycol 55
[0135] Compositions 1 and 2 were mixed in a 5.5:1 ratio (final pH
13.35). The resulting preparation was applied, in a bath ratio of
2, to locks of 0.2 g of frizzy natural hair. The locks were then
positioned flat in an ultrasonic bath delivering waves of 40 kHz
(power 120 W), for 5, 10 and 15 minutes. At the end of each
leave-in time, the locks were rinsed thoroughly with water and then
dried.
[0136] In a second series of treatments, the preparation obtained
by mixing compositions 1 and 2 in the same ratio as previously was
applied, in a bath ratio of 2, to locks of 0.2 g of frizzy natural
hair. The locks were then positioned flat on a thermostatic plate,
the temperature of which was fixed at 32.degree. C., for 5, 10 and
15 minutes. At the end of each leave-in time, the locks were washed
thoroughly with water and then dried.
[0137] The smoothing performance levels were evaluated in terms of
the ability of the treatments to relax the natural curliness of the
frizzy hair (elongation).
[0138] The results are given in the following table:
TABLE-US-00003 Leave-in Smoothing time performance Conditions
(minutes) levels Example 1 Ultrasound 15 +++ No ultrasound 15 ++
Example 2 Ultrasound 10 ++ No ultrasound 10 + Example 3 Ultrasound
5 - No ultrasound 5 -- +++: very substantial elongation ++:
substantial elongation +: medium elongation -: mediocre
elongation
[0139] The use of ultrasound during the chemical treatment of
Examples 1 to 3 therefore makes it possible both to increase the
smoothing performance levels and to reduce the treatment times
compared with a process with no ultrasound.
EXAMPLES 4 AND 5
[0140] The following composition was prepared (as percentage by
mass of the total composition):
TABLE-US-00004 Composition 3 Sodium hydroxide 2.25 Demineralized
water 97.75 pH measured 13.3
[0141] Composition 3 was applied, in a bath ratio of 2, to locks of
0.2 g of frizzy natural hair. The locks were then positioned flat
in an ultrasonic bath delivering waves of 40 kHz (power 120 W), for
10 and 15 minutes. At the end of each leave-in time, the locks were
washed thoroughly with water and then dried.
[0142] In a second series of treatments, composition 3 was applied,
in a bath ratio of 2, to locks of 0.2 g of frizzy natural hair. The
locks were then positioned flat on a thermostatic plate, the
temperature of which was fixed at 32.degree. C., for 10 and 15
minutes. At the end of each leave-in time, the locks were rinsed
thoroughly with water and then dried.
[0143] The smoothing performance levels were evaluated here again
in terms of the ability of the treatments to relax the natural
curliness of the frizzy hair.
[0144] The results are given in the following table:
TABLE-US-00005 Leave-in Smoothing time performance Conditions
(minutes) levels Example 4 Ultrasound 15 +++ No ultrasound 15 +++
Example 5 Ultrasound 10 +++ No ultrasound 10 + +++: very
substantial elongation ++: substantial elongation +: medium
elongation -: mediocre elongation
[0145] The use of ultrasound in combination with an alkaline
smoothing formulation containing sodium hydroxide makes it possible
to reduce the treatment times while retaining excellent elongation
performance levels compared with a process with no ultrasound.
Examples Illustrating the Process with Reducing Agents
[0146] The following compositions were prepared (as percentage by
mass of the total composition):
TABLE-US-00006 Comp. Comp. Comp. Comp. Comp. 1 2 3 4 5
Tris(hydroxymethyl)- 6.2 -- -- -- -- phosphine Sodium sulphite 6.3
Sodium hydrosulphite -- -- 8.7 -- -- Sodium -- -- -- 9.5 --
metabisulphite Formamidine -- -- -- -- 6.9 sulphinic acid
Monoethanolamine qs qs qs qs qs pH 9 pH 9 pH 9 pH 9 pH 9
Demineralized water qs 100 qs 100 qs 100 qs 100 qs 100
Composition 6 (Oxidizing Lotion)
TABLE-US-00007 [0147] Hydrogen peroxide (at 35%) 5.15 Sodium
salicylate 0.03 Tetrasodium pyrophosphate.cndot.10H.sub.2O 0.04
Etidronic acid, tetrasodium salt (30%) 0.15 Phosphoric acid 0.3
Demineralized water qs 100
[0148] Locks of 1 g of Japanese natural hair rolled on curlers 1 cm
in diameter were immersed in glass containers containing the
compositions noted 1 to 5. Each container was then placed, for 15
minutes, in an ultrasonic bath delivering waves of 40 kHz (power
120 W, bath temperature at 32.degree. C.)
[0149] In a second series of treatments, locks of 1 g of Japanese
natural hair rolled on curlers 1 cm in diameter were immersed in
glass containers containing the compositions noted 1 to 5. Each
container was then placed, for 15 minutes, in a waterbath of which
the temperature was fixed at 32.degree. C.
[0150] For the two series of treatments, at the end of the leave-in
time, the locks were rinsed with tap water, and wrung out, and then
each was treated with composition 6, in a bath ratio of 2, for 5
minutes at ambient temperature. At the end of the leave-in time,
the locks were rinsed, unrolled and then dried.
[0151] The performance levels in terms of curliness for each
treatment are given in the following table:
TABLE-US-00008 Conditions Curliness results Composition Ultrasound
++ 1 No ultrasound + Composition Ultrasound + 2 No ultrasound --
Composition Ultrasound + 3 No ultrasound - Composition Ultrasound +
4 No ultrasound -- Composition Ultrasound + 5 No ultrasound
32.degree. C. - ++: very substantial curliness +: medium curliness
-: mediocre curliness --: no curliness
[0152] In each case, the use of ultrasound made it possible to
significantly increase the hair shaping performance levels of the
non-thiolated reducing agents, compared with a process with no
ultrasound.
* * * * *