U.S. patent application number 13/453393 was filed with the patent office on 2012-08-23 for agent for temporarily styling keratin-containing fibres containing a non-ionic starch modified by propylene oxide and a chitosane.
Invention is credited to Rolf Bayersdoerfer, Carine Dogan, Pamela Kaftan, Thorsten Knappe, Burkhard Mueller, Ralf Roenisch, Mathias Schriefers, Matthias Schweinsberg.
Application Number | 20120213724 13/453393 |
Document ID | / |
Family ID | 43648714 |
Filed Date | 2012-08-23 |
United States Patent
Application |
20120213724 |
Kind Code |
A1 |
Mueller; Burkhard ; et
al. |
August 23, 2012 |
AGENT FOR TEMPORARILY STYLING KERATIN-CONTAINING FIBRES CONTAINING
A NON-IONIC STARCH MODIFIED BY PROPYLENE OXIDE AND A CHITOSANE
Abstract
Cosmetic agents for the temporary deformation of keratinic
fibers which contain, in a cosmetic carrier, a combination of at
least one chitosan compound and at least one nonionic starch
modified by means of propylene oxide, produce a hairstyle with a
high degree of hold, excellent flexibility, and good hair care.
Inventors: |
Mueller; Burkhard; (Hamburg,
DE) ; Kaftan; Pamela; (Hamburg, DE) ;
Bayersdoerfer; Rolf; (Hamburg, DE) ; Schweinsberg;
Matthias; (Hamburg, DE) ; Roenisch; Ralf;
(Wuppertal, DE) ; Schriefers; Mathias;
(Moenchengladbach, DE) ; Dogan; Carine; (Vigneux
sur Seine, FR) ; Knappe; Thorsten; (Schenefeld,
DE) |
Family ID: |
43648714 |
Appl. No.: |
13/453393 |
Filed: |
April 23, 2012 |
Related U.S. Patent Documents
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Application
Number |
Filing Date |
Patent Number |
|
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PCT/EP2010/065860 |
Oct 21, 2010 |
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13453393 |
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Current U.S.
Class: |
424/70.13 |
Current CPC
Class: |
A61K 8/732 20130101;
A61K 8/608 20130101; A61K 8/8147 20130101; A61K 2800/5422 20130101;
A61K 8/8152 20130101; A61K 2800/5424 20130101; A61K 8/046 20130101;
A61Q 5/06 20130101; A61K 8/8158 20130101 |
Class at
Publication: |
424/70.13 |
International
Class: |
A61K 8/73 20060101
A61K008/73; A61Q 5/06 20060101 A61Q005/06 |
Foreign Application Data
Date |
Code |
Application Number |
Oct 22, 2009 |
DE |
10 2009 045 925.1 |
Oct 22, 2009 |
DE |
10 2009 045 933.2 |
Claims
1. Cosmetic agent for temporary deformation of keratinic fibers
comprising, in a cosmetic carrier: at least one chitosan or
derivative thereof, and at least one nonionic starch modified with
propylene oxide.
2. Cosmetic agent according to claim 1, wherein the at least one
chitosan or derivative thereof is a neutralization product of
chitosan with at least one organic carboxylic acid.
3. Cosmetic agent according to claim 2, wherein the organic
carboxylic acid is chosen from lactic acid, formic acid,
pyrrolidonecarboxylic acid, nicotinic acid, hydroxyisobutyric acid,
hydroxyisovaleric acid, and mixtures thereof.
4. Cosmetic agent according to claim 1, wherein the chitosan or
derivative thereof is present in an amount from 0.01 wt % to 5 wt
%, based on total weight of the agent.
5. Cosmetic agent according to claim 1, wherein the modified
nonionic starch is a modified nonionic tapioca starch, a modified
nonionic potato starch or a mixture thereof.
6. Cosmetic agent according to claim 1, wherein the modified
nonionic starch has an average molecular weight (weight average)
from 50 to 2500 kDa.
7. Cosmetic agent according to claim 1, wherein the modified
nonionic starch has a propylene oxide content from 1 to 20 wt %,
based on weight of the modified nonionic starch.
8. Cosmetic agent according to claim 1, wherein the modified
nonionic starch has, in a 43-wt % aqueous solution, a viscosity
from 150 to 1,500,000 mPas, based on Brookfield viscosimeter,
spindle 7 at 20.degree. C. and 20 rpm.
9. Cosmetic agent according to claim 1, wherein the modified
nonionic starch is present in an amount from 0.1 wt % to 10 wt %,
based on total weight of the agent.
10. Cosmetic agent according to claim 1, wherein the modified
nonionic starch is at least one uncrosslinked nonionic starch
modified with propylene oxide.
11. Foam comprising the cosmetic agent according to claim 1.
12. Cosmetic agent according to claim 1 further comprising at least
one film-forming and/or setting polymer.
13. Cosmetic agent according to claim 1 wherein the cosmetic
carrier further comprises at least 50 wt % water, based on total
weight of the agent.
14. Method for temporary deformation of keratinic fibers comprising
applying a cosmetic agent according to claim 1 onto the keratinic
fibers.
Description
CROSS REFERENCE TO RELATED APPLICATIONS
[0001] The present application is a continuation of International
Application No. PCT/EP2010/065860 filed 21 Oct. 2010, which claims
priority to German Patent Application Nos. 10 2009 045 925.1 and 10
2009 045 933.2, both filed 22 Oct. 2009, each of which are
incorporated herein by reference.
[0002] The present invention relates to cosmetic agents for
temporary deformation of keratinic fibers containing, in a cosmetic
carrier, a combination of at least one chitosan compound and at
least one nonionic starch modified with propylene oxide.
[0003] Styling agents for deformation of keratinic fibers have been
known for some time and are used in various embodiments to build
up, refresh, and fix in place hairstyles that, for many types of
hair, can be obtained only using setting active substances. An
important role is played by hair treatment agents used for
permanent shaping and those used for temporary shaping of the hair.
Temporary shaping operations intended to yield good hold without
impairing the healthy appearance of the hair such as its shine can
be achieved, for example, using hair sprays, hair waxes, hair gels,
blow-dry waves, etc.
[0004] Corresponding agents for temporary shaping usually contain
synthetic polymers as a shaping component. Preparations having a
dissolved or dispersed polymer can be applied onto hair using
propellant gases or a pump mechanism. Hair gels and hair waxes,
however, are not applied directly onto the hair but instead
distributed in the hair using a comb or one's hands.
[0005] Synthetic polymers usually used in agents for temporary
shaping are manufactured from corresponding synthetically
accessible monomers. These monomers are obtained from fossil
substances such as petroleum by conversion to the corresponding
polymer modules, in some cases with expenditure of energy.
[0006] In a more sustainable approach to nature as living space and
to resources, it is still desirable to use for cosmetic products
only those cosmetic raw materials that are accessible, with as
little energy use as possible, from renewable raw materials. A
reduction in the amount or even a replacement of synthetic polymers
can be undertaken, however, only when the substitute polymers
exhibit the properties desired for the intended application and
ensure that the keratin-containing fibers (e.g., hairstyle) are
held in sufficiently stable fashion in the shape imparted to
them.
[0007] In addition, nature-based substitute polymers should impart
volume to the fiber collective and retain the elasticity and
smoothness of the keratin-containing fibers that are fixed as to
shape. Formation on keratin-containing fibers of polymer particles
visible to the naked eye should be avoided. In addition, the
keratin-containing fibers must not give a dull impression, but
should have a natural shine.
[0008] The present invention therefore provides a cosmetic
composition that brings about very strong and durable shape
retention, has a high volume effect, provides good fiber care, and
does not exhibit the above disadvantages. A further intention is to
be able to dispense, predominantly or as entirely as possible, with
use of synthetic polymers based on fossil raw materials.
[0009] A first subject of the invention is therefore a cosmetic
agent for temporary deformation of keratinic fibers, particularly
human hair, containing, in a cosmetic carrier [0010] at least one
chitosan or derivative thereof, and [0011] at least one nonionic
starch modified by means of propylene oxide.
[0012] "Keratinic fibers" according to the present invention refer
to furs, wool, feathers, and particularly human hair.
[0013] Chitosans represent biopolymers and are hydrocolloids. In
chemical terms, they are partially deacetylated chitins of various
molecular weights.
[0014] Manufacture of chitosans proceeds from chitin, preferably
crustacean shell residues, which are available in large quantities
as cheap raw materials. The chitin is usually first deproteinated
by addition of bases, demineralized by adding mineral acids, and
lastly deacetylated by adding strong bases. Molecular weights can
be distributed over a broad spectrum. It is preferable to use those
grades having an average molecular weight (weight average) from
800,000 to 1,200,000 Dalton, a viscosity per Brookfield (1-wt % in
glycolic acid) 5000 mPas or less, a degree of deacetylation from 80
to 88%, and an ash content of 0.3 wt % or less.
[0015] Also appropriate as typical cationic biopolymers as chitosan
derivatives are cationically derivatized chitosans (e.g.,
quaternization products) or alkoxylated chitosans.
[0016] Preferred agents include as a chitosan at least one
neutralization product of chitosan with at least one organic
carboxylic acid, such as in particular formic acid, acetic acid,
citric acid, lactic acid, pyrrolidonecarboxylic acid, tartaric
acid, glycolic acid, nicotinic acid, hydroxyisobutyric acid,
hydroxyisovaleric acid, or mixtures of these acids. Preferably, the
organic carboxylic acid are chosen from lactic acid, formic acid,
pyrrolidonecarboxylic acid, nicotinic acid, hydroxyisobutyric acid,
hydroxyisovaleric acid, or mixtures of these acids. This
neutralization product can be manufactured, for example, in an
aqueous medium by adding chitosan and the corresponding organic
carboxylic acid.
[0017] Suitable chitosans are readily commercially available, for
example, under the commercial designations Hydagen.RTM. CMF (1 wt %
active substance in aqueous solution with 0.4 wt % glycolic acid,
molecular weight 500,000 to 5,000,000 g/mol, Cognis), Hydagen.RTM.
HCMF (chitosan (80% deacetylated), molecular weight 50,000 to
1,000,000 g/mol, Cognis), Kytamer.RTM. PC (80 wt % active substance
as chitosan pyrrolidone carboxylate (INCI name: Chitosan PCA),
Amerchol), and Chitolam.RTM. NB/101.
[0018] The chitosans orderivatives thereof are present in agents
according to the present invention preferably in an amount from
0.01 wt % to 5 wt %, more preferably 0.05 wt % to 2.0 wt %, very
preferably 0.1 wt % to 1 wt %, based on weight of the agent
according to the invention.
[0019] Starch is a reserve carbohydrate that is stored by many
plants in the form of large starch grains (granules), usually 1 to
200 .mu.m in size, in various parts of the plant, for example, in
tubers or roots, cereal seeds, fruits and in the pith. A nonionic
starch modified with propylene oxide that can be used according to
the invention can be obtained from the starch of potatoes, corn,
rice, peas, acorns, chestnuts, barley, wheat, bananas, sago,
millet, sorghum, oats, barley, rye, beans, yams, arrowroot or
cassava. Particularly pronounced effects according to the present
invention are achieved with nonionic tapioca starch modified with
propylene oxide or nonionic potato starch modified with propylene
oxide or with mixtures of these two starches. Very particularly
preferably, the agent contains at least one nonionic potato starch
modified with propylene oxide.
[0020] Starch belongs to the homoglycan family and is a
polycondensation product of D-glucose. Starch is made up of three
structurally different polymers of d-glucopyranose, namely amylose,
amylopectin, and an intermediate fraction. Higher plants contain 0
to 45 wt % amylose, based on dry substance.
[0021] The intermediate fraction, also referred to as "anomalous
amylopectin," is structurally intermediate between amylose and
amylopectin. The quantitative indications defined in this
Application for amylopectin include the intermediate fraction.
[0022] It is preferred if the nonionic starch modified with
propylene oxide has an amylose content of 25 wt % or less,
particularly 20 wt % or less, based on weight of the modified
starch. It has become apparent that a starch having 17 to 22 wt %
amylose and 78 to 83 wt % amylopectin is particularly suitable for
achieving the effect according to the present invention.
[0023] Amylose is made up of predominantly linear
.alpha.-1,4-glycosidically linked d-glucose, M.sub.r 50,000 to
150,000. The resulting chains form double helices in the
starch.
[0024] Amylopectin also contains, in addition to the .alpha.-1,4
links described for amylose, .alpha.-1,6 bonds (in an amount from 4
to 6%) as branching points. The average spacing between the
branching points is equal to approximately 12 to 17 glucose units.
The molar mass of 10.sup.7 to 7* 10.sup.5 corresponds to approx.
10.sup.5 glucose units, making amylopectin one of the largest
biopolymers. The branching points are distributed over the molecule
in such a way that a bundle structure, with relatively short side
chains, develops. Each double helix is formed by two of these side
chains. As a result of the many branching points, amylopectin is
relatively easily soluble in water.
[0025] "Nonionic starch modified with propylene oxide" according to
the present invention is a reaction product of a starch with
propylene oxide. A reaction product of this kind includes at least
one structural unit of formula (PS)
##STR00001##
wherein at least one of R, R', or R'' is a group of the formula
##STR00002##
wherein n is greater than or equal to zero, and at most two of R,
R', and R'' is a hydrogen atom. In formulae of the Application, a
bond identified with the "*" symbol is a free valence of the
corresponding structural unit. Nonionic starches modified with
propylene oxide are provided, for example, by reacting a natural
starch with propylene oxide. Before modification with propylene
oxide, the starch can have been exposed to a variety of physical or
chemical processes such as heat treatment, shear, a thermal,
acid-hydrolytic, oxidizing, or enzymatic cleavage, etc.
[0026] Preferably, the nonionic starch modified with propylene
oxide is not present in the agent according to the present
invention as individual starch grains (granules). Accordingly, the
starch grains are disintegrated, for example, by heat or shear and
the corresponding polysaccharide molecules are released from the
composite material. The released polysaccharide molecules can be
modified with propylene oxide after or before release.
[0027] In a preferred embodiment, the nonionic starch modified with
propylene oxide is gelatinized. When an aqueous suspension of
starch is heated or compressed, a tangential swelling of the bodies
is then observed at a critical temperature or pressure, with loss
of birefringence, a change in X-ray structure, and an abrupt rise
in the viscosity of the solution. This phenomenon is called
"gelatinization."
[0028] Nonionic starches according to the present invention
modified with propylene oxide are present in the agent in a
molecular weight distribution. Preferred nonionic starches modified
with propylene oxide have an average molecular weight from 50 to
2500 kDa (weight average). The molecular weight distribution is
determined experimentally by gel filtration chromatography against
dextran. The weight average is an average molecular weight that
takes into account the total weight of the molecules of various
molecular weights, and not simply the number of molecules.
[0029] For statistical calculation of the weight average, firstly
the "weight break" is defined:
w.sub.i.ltoreq.(n.sub.iM.sub.i)/[.SIGMA.(N.sub.iM.sub.i)].
[0030] This indicates the weight proportion, in the sample, of
macromolecules that are made up of i segments (e.g. monomer
modules) of mass M.sub.i and that occur Al.sub.i times in the
sample. The weight average of the molecular weight
M.sub.w=.SIGMA.w.sub.i M.sub.i is thus given by
M.sub.w=[.SIGMA.(N.sub.iM.sup.2.sub.i)/[.SIGMA.(N.sub.iM.sub.i)].
[0031] Particularly preferred agents contain nonionic starches
modified with propylene oxide having an average molecular weight
(weight average) from 100 to 2000 kDa, particularly 500 to 1800
kDa, very preferably from 700 to 1000 kDa.
[0032] In order to adjust the molecular weight, the starch is
subjected to a mechanical and/or chemical treatment before or after
modification with propylene oxide. To elevate the molecular weight,
the aforesaid starch can be crosslinked. Crosslinking of the
nonionic starch modified by means of propylene oxide exists when
the linear or branched polysaccharide macromolecules of the starch
are linked covalently by means of a crosslinking agent, forming a
three-dimensional, insoluble, and still swellable polymeric
network. Natural starch is generally considered uncrosslinked, and,
if crosslinking were desirable, requires artificial crosslinking by
means of synthesis chemistry. Artificial crosslinking of this kind
can be carried out using crosslinking agents. (Nonionic) starches
(modified with propylene oxide) that do not exhibit such
crosslinking are uncrosslinked.
[0033] Crosslinking occurs, for example, using the crosslinking
agent epichlorohydrin. Here, a mixture (42-wt % in water) of starch
modified with propylene oxide is produced, into which mixture the
desired amount of epichlorohydrin is stirred at room temperature.
Once the target viscosity is reached after a stirring time of 1 to
5 hours with viscosity monitoring, the crosslinked starch is
isolated using ordinary methods.
[0034] It is particularly preferred if agents according to the
present invention contain at least one uncrosslinked nonionic
starch modified with propylene oxide as a modified nonionic
starch.
[0035] To achieve a lower molecular weight from 100 to 400 kDa, the
starches are preferably exposed to mechanical cleavage, enzymatic
cleavage (particularly using .alpha.-amylase, .beta.-amylase,
glucoamylase, or debranching enzymes), acid-hydrolytic cleavage
(particularly using hydrochloric acid, sulfuric acid, or phosphoric
acid), thermal cleavage, or reaction with oxidizing agents (such as
periodate, hypochlorite, chromic acid, permanganate, nitrogen
dioxide, hydrogen peroxide, or organic percarboxylic acid,
preferably with hydrogen peroxide). Kneaders, extruders,
stator/rotor machines, and/or agitators are suitable for mechanical
cleavage of the starch.
[0036] Oxidative cleavage using hydrogen peroxide is preferred.
Here, for example, nonionic starch modified with propylene oxide is
added to water, heated to 50 to 70.degree. C., hydrogen peroxide is
added, and stirring occurs at 70 to 85.degree. C. for 2 to 5
hours.
[0037] Propylene oxide content of the starch affects the
fine-tuning of the hairstyle hold and hairstyle flexibility, as
well as stability of the cosmetic agents. The parameters can be
further optimized if the nonionic starch modified with propylene
oxide has, based on weight of the modified starch, a propylene
oxide content from 1 to 20 wt %, more preferably from 4 to 12 wt %,
very preferably from 9.5 to 10.5 wt % or from 4.0 to 6.0 wt %.
Propylene oxide content can be determined, for example, by carrying
out a Hodges cleavage using the method according to DIN EN
13268.
[0038] Cosmetic agents containing nonionic starches modified with
propylene oxide having, in a 43-wt % aqueous solution, a preferred
viscosity from 150 to 1,500,000 mPs (Brookfield viscosimeter,
spindle 7 at 20.degree. C. and 20 rpm) are outstandingly suitable
for the invention. Particularly suitable starches modified with
propylene oxide have viscosities from 10,000 to 200,000 mPas, more
preferably from 25,000 to 180,000 mPas (measured under the
conditions recited above).
[0039] It is preferred if the cosmetic agent contains the nonionic
starch modified with propylene oxide in an amount from 0.1 wt % to
10 wt %, more preferably from 0.2 wt % to 5.0 wt %, very preferably
from 1.0 to 3.0 wt %, based on weight of the agent.
[0040] Agents according to the present invention contain their
active substances in a cosmetic carrier, preferably in a
water-containing cosmetic carrier, an alcoholic cosmetic carrier,
or an aqueous alcoholic cosmetic carrier. For temporary hair
deformation, such carriers include lotions, water-in-oil emulsions,
oil-in-water emulsions, creams, gels, foams, pomades, waxes, or
other preparations that are suitable for use on the hair. It is
preferred if the carrier is a water-containing cosmetic carrier or
an aqueous alcoholic cosmetic carrier. It is if the cosmetic
carrier of the agent according to the present invention contains at
least 50 wt % water, based on the weight of the entire agent.
[0041] "Aqueous alcoholic" carriers for purposes of the present
invention are aqueous compositions containing 3 to 70 wt % of a
C.sub.1 to C.sub.4 alcohol, particularly ethanol or isopropanol.
Agents according to the present invention can additionally contain
further organic solvents such as methoxybutanol, benzyl alcohol,
ethyl diglycol, 1,2-propylene glycol, or 1,3-propylene glycol. All
water-soluble organic solvents are preferred in this context.
[0042] It is preferred if the agent according to the present
invention additionally contains at least one film-forming and/or
setting polymer. Additional film-forming and/or setting polymers of
this embodiment are different from the chitosan(s) (derivatives)
and the nonionic starch modified with propylene oxide. Film-forming
and/or setting polymers can be nonionically, anionically,
amphoterically, or cationically charged, preferably nonionically or
cationically charged.
[0043] "Polymers" according to the present invention are compounds
constructed from a plurality of molecules wherein one type or
several types of atoms or atom groupings ("constituent units,"
"basic modules," or "repeating units") are repeatedly serially
arranged, and that have a molecular weight of at least 10,000
g/mol. The polymers are obtained by polyreaction, which can occur
artificially (i.e., synthetically) or naturally.
[0044] "Film-forming polymers" are those polymers that, upon
drying, leave behind a continuous film on the skin, hair, or nails.
Film-formers of this kind can be used in a very wide variety of
cosmetic products such as face masks, make-up, hair setting agents,
hair sprays, hair gels, hair waxes, hair therapies, shampoos, or
nail polishes. Those polymers having sufficient solubility in
water, alcohol or in water/alcohol mixtures are particularly
preferred. It is possible in this way to produce corresponding
solutions that can easily be utilized or further processed.
[0045] "Film-forming polymers" are also those polymers that, when
applied in a 0.01- to 20-wt % aqueous, alcoholic, or aqueous
alcoholic solution, are capable of depositing a transparent polymer
film on the hair.
[0046] Setting polymers contribute to hold and/or buildup of hair
volume and hair fullness of the overall hairstyle. These polymers
are at the same time also film-forming polymers and are therefore
generally typical substances for shape-imparting hair-treatment
agents such as hair setting agents, hair foams, hair waxes, and
hair sprays. It is certainly possible for film formation to be
localized, and for only a few fibers to be connected to one
another.
[0047] The additional film-forming and/or setting polymers are
present preferably in an amount from 0.1 wt % to 10 wt %,
particularly 1.0 wt % to 8.0 wt %, very preferably from 2.0 to 6.0
wt %, based on weight of the agent.
[0048] In a particularly preferred embodiment, agents according to
the present invention contain at least one nonionic film-forming
and/or nonionic setting polymer as an additional film-forming
and/or setting polymer.
[0049] The additional nonionic film-forming and/or nonionic setting
polymers are present in the agent preferably in an amount from 0.1
wt % to 10 wt %, more preferably from 1.0 wt % to 8.0 wt %, very
preferably from 2.0 to 6.0 wt %, based on weight of the agent.
[0050] Nonionic film-forming and/or nonionic setting polymers are
preferably chosen from at least one polymer of [0051] homopolymers
and nonionic copolymers of N-vinylpyrrolidone, [0052] nonionic
copolymers of isobutene, [0053] nonionic copolymers of maleic acid
anhydride.
[0054] Suitable polyvinylpyrrolidones include commercial products
such as Luviskol.RTM. K 90 or Luviskol.RTM. K 85 of the BASF SE
company.
[0055] Suitable polyvinyl acetate is marketed, for example, as an
emulsion under the trade name Vinac.RTM. by the Air Products
company.
[0056] Agents having as a nonionic film-forming and/or nonionic
setting polymer at least one polymer chosen from [0057] copolymers
of maleic acid anhydride and methyl vinyl ether, [0058]
polyvinylpyrrolidone, [0059] copolymers of N-vinylpyrrolidone and
vinyl esters of carboxylic acids having 2 to 18 carbon atoms,
particularly N-vinylpyrrolidone and vinyl acetate, or mixtures of
these polymers, are very particularly preferred according to the
present invention.
[0060] Those agents according to the present invention having as a
nonionic film-forming and/or nonionic setting polymer at least one
polymer chosen from [0061] polyvinylpyrrolidone, [0062] copolymers
of N-vinylpyrrolidone and vinyl esters of carboxylic acids having 2
to 18 carbon atoms, particularly N-vinylpyrrolidone and vinyl
acetate, or mixtures of these polymers, are in turn very
particularly preferred according to the present invention.
[0063] If copolymers of N-vinylpyrrolidone and vinyl esters of
carboxylic acids having 2 to 18 carbon atoms, particularly
N-vinylpyrrolidone and vinyl acetate, are used, it is preferred if
the molar ratio of the structural units of the polymer based on the
N-vinylpyrrolidone monomer to the structural units of the polymer
based on the monomer that is vinyl esters of carboxylic acids
having 2 to 18 carbon atoms (particularly vinyl acetate), is from
20:80 to 80:20, particularly 30:70 to 60:40.
[0064] Suitable copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and vinyl acetate
are obtainable, for example, under the trademark Luviskol.RTM. VA
37, Luviskol.RTM. VA 55, Luviskol.RTM. VA 64, and Luviskol.RTM. VA
73 from the BASF SE Company.
[0065] Agents according to the present invention preferably contain
as an additional film-forming and/or setting polymer, at least one
cationic film-forming and/or cationic setting polymer. It is
preferred according to the present invention if at least a
combination of [0066] at least one nonionic film-forming and/or
nonionic setting polymer and/or [0067] at least one cationic
film-forming and/or cationic setting polymer is present in the
agent as an additional film forming and/or setting polymer.
[0068] "Cationic polymers" are polymers having in the main chain
and/or side chain a group that can be "temporarily" or
"permanently" cationic. According to the present invention, those
polymers having a cationic group regardless of the pH of the agent
are referred to as "permanently cationic." These are polymers
having a quaternary nitrogen atom, for example, in the form of an
ammonium group. Preferred cationic groups are quaternary ammonium
groups. Those polymers in which the quaternary ammonium group is
bonded via a C1-4 hydrocarbon group to a main polymer chain
constructed from acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, or derivatives
thereof have proven particularly suitable.
[0069] A cationic film-forming and/or cationic setting polymer
preferably suitable according to the present invention is at least
one cationic film-forming and/or cationic setting polymer that
contains at least one structural element of formula (M9) and
additionally at least one structural element of formula (M10)
##STR00003##
wherein [0070] R is a hydrogen atom or a methyl group, [0071] R',
R'' and R''' are, mutually independently, a (C.sub.1 to C.sub.30)
alkyl group, [0072] X is an oxygen atom or an NH group, [0073] A is
an ethane-1,2-diyl group or a propane-1,3-diyl group, [0074] n is 1
or 3.
[0075] All possible physiologically acceptable anions such as
chloride, bromide, hydrogen sulfate, methyl sulfate, ethyl sulfate,
tetrafluoroborate, phosphate, hydrogen phosphate, dihydrogen
phosphate, or p-toluenesulfonate, triflate, serve to compensate for
the positive polymer charge.
[0076] Such compounds are available, for example, as [0077]
copolymers of dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate, quaternized with
diethyl sulfate, with vinylpyrrolidone, having the INCI name
Polyquaternium-11, under the designations Gafquat.RTM. 440,
Gafquat.RTM. 734, Gafquat.RTM. 755 (each ISP company) and Luviquat
PQ 11 PN (BASF SE), [0078] copolymers of N-vinylpyrrolidone,
N-(3-dimethylaminopropyl)methacrylamide, and
3-(methacryloylamino)propyllauryldimethylammonium chloride (INCI
name: Polyquaternium-55), which is marketed e.g. under the
commercial name Styleze W 10 or Styleze W 20 (10 resp. 20 wt %
active substance in ethanol/water mixture) by the ISP company,
[0079] copolymers of N-vinylpyrrolidone, N-vinylcaprolactam,
N-(3-dimethylaminopropyl)methacrylamide, and
3-(methacryloylamino)propyllauryldimethylammonium chloride (INCI
name: Polyquaternium-69), which is marketed, for example, under the
commercial name AquaStyle.RTM. 300 (28 to 32 wt % active substance
in ethanol/water mixture) by the ISP company.
[0080] Cationic film-forming and/or cationic setting polymers are
further selected from cationic quaternized cellulose
derivatives.
[0081] Cationic quaternized cellulose derivatives are further
suitable as film-forming and/or setting polymers.
[0082] Those cationic quaternized celluloses having more than one
permanent cationic charge in a side chain are particularly
advantageous for purposes of the invention. Among these cationic
celluloses, those having the INCI name Polyquaternium-4, marketed,
for example, under the designations Celquat.RTM. H 100,
Celquat.RTM. L 200 by the National Starch Company are particularly
suitable.
[0083] Further cationic polymers particularly preferred for use for
the invention are those cationic film-forming and/or cationic
setting copolymers having at least one structural element of
formula (M11)
##STR00004##
wherein R'' is a (C.sub.1 to C.sub.4) alkyl group, particularly a
methyl group, and additionally at least one further cationic and/or
nonionic structural element.
[0084] All possible physiologically acceptable anions such as
chloride, bromide, hydrogen sulfate, methyl sulfate, ethyl sulfate,
tetrafluoroborate, phosphate, hydrogen phosphate, dihydrogen
phosphate, or p-toluenesulfonate, triflate, serve to compensate for
the positive polymer charge.
[0085] It is preferred if at least one copolymer (c1), having
besides at least one structural element of formula (M11) and
additionally a structural element of formula (M6)
##STR00005##
wherein R'' is a (C.sub.1 to C.sub.4) alkyl group, particularly a
methyl group, is present as an additional cationic film-forming
and/or cationic setting polymer.
[0086] All possible physiologically acceptable anions such as
chloride, bromide, hydrogen sulfate, methyl sulfate, ethyl sulfate,
tetrafluoroborate, phosphate, hydrogen phosphate, dihydrogen
phosphate, or p-toluenesulfonate, triflate, serve to compensate for
the positive polymer charge of copolymers (c1).
[0087] Very particularly preferred cationic film-forming and/or
cationic setting polymers as copolymers (c1) contain 10 to 30 mol
%, preferably 15 to 25 mol %, and particularly 20 mol % structural
units according to formula (M11), and 70 to 90 mol %, preferably 75
to 85 mol % and particularly 80 mol % structural units according to
formula (M6).
[0088] It is particularly preferred if copolymers (c1), in addition
to polymer units resulting from incorporation of structural units
according to formulae (M11) and (M6) into the copolymer, a maximum
of 5 wt %, preferably a maximum of 1 wt %, contain polymer units
based on the incorporation of other monomers. Copolymers (c1) are
preferably constructed exclusively from structural units of formula
(M11), where R'' =methyl, and (M6).
[0089] If a chloride ion is used to compensate for the positive
charge of the polymer, such N-methylvinylimidazole/vinylpyrrolidone
copolymers are then referred to according to INCI nomenclature as
Polyquaternium-16 and are obtainable e.g. from BASF under the trade
names Luviquat.RTM. Style, Luviquat.RTM. FC 370, Luviquat.RTM. FC
550, Luviquat.RTM. FC 905, and Luviquat.RTM. HM 552.
[0090] If a methosulfate is used to compensate for the positive
charge of the polymer, such N-methylvinylimidazole/vinylpyrrolidone
copolymers are then referred to according to INCI nomenclature as
Polyquaternium-44 and are obtainable e.g. from BASF under the trade
names Luviquat.RTM. UltraCare.
[0091] In addition to or instead of copolymer or copolymers (c1),
agents according to the present invention can also contain
copolymers (c2) that, proceeding from copolymer (c1), contain
structural units of formula (M7) as additional structural
units:
##STR00006##
[0092] Further particularly preferred agents according to the
present invention contain, as a cationic film-forming and/or
cationic setting polymer, at least one copolymer (c2) having at
least one structural unit according to formula (M11-a), at least
one structural unit according to formula (M6), and at least one
structural unit according to formula (M7)
##STR00007##
[0093] Here as well, it is particularly preferred if copolymers
(c2), in addition to polymer units resulting from incorporation of
structural units according to formulae (M11-a), (M6), and (M7) into
the copolymer, a maximum of 5 wt %, preferably a maximum of 1 wt %,
contain polymer units based on the incorporation of other monomers.
Copolymers (c2) are preferably constructed exclusively from
structural units of formulae (M11-a), (M6), and (M7).
[0094] All possible physiologically acceptable anions such as
chloride, bromide, hydrogen sulfate, methyl sulfate, ethyl sulfate,
tetrafluoroborate, phosphate, hydrogen phosphate, dihydrogen
phosphate, or p-toluenesulfonate, triflate, serve to compensate for
the positive polymer charge of copolymers (c2).
[0095] If a methosulfate is used to compensate for the positive
charge of the polymer, such
N-methylvinylimidazole/vinylpyrrolidone/vinylcaprolactam copolymers
are then referred to according to INCI nomenclature as
Polyquaternium-46 and are obtainable, for example, from BASF under
the trade name Luviquat.RTM. Hold.
[0096] Very particularly preferred copolymers (c2) contain 1 to 20
mol %, preferably 5 to 15 mol %, and particularly 10 mol %
structural units according to formula (M-11 a), and 30 to 50 mol %,
preferably 35 to 45 mol %, and particularly 40 mol % structural
units according to formula (M6), and 40 to 60 mol %, preferably 45
to 55 mol %, and particularly 60 mol % structural units according
to formula (M7).
[0097] In addition to or instead of copolymer or copolymers (c1)
and/or (c2), agents according to the present invention can also
contain as a cationic film-forming and/or cationic setting polymer,
copolymers (c3) having as structural units structural units of
formulas (M11-a) and (M6), as well as further structural units from
the group of the vinylimidazole units and from the group of the
acrylamide and/or methacrylamide units.
[0098] Further particularly preferred agents according to the
present invention contain, as an additional cationic film-forming
and/or cationic setting polymer, at least one copolymer (c3) that
contains at least one structural unit according to formula (M-11a),
at least one structural unit according to formula (M6), at least
one structural unit according to formula (M10) and at least one
structural unit according to formula (M12)
##STR00008##
[0099] Here, it is particularly preferred if copolymers (c3)
contain, besides polymer units that result from incorporation of
the aforesaid structural units in accordance with formulas (M11-a),
(M6), (M8), and (M12) into the copolymer, a maximum of 5 wt %,
preferably a maximum of 1 wt %, polymer units based on
incorporation of other monomers. Copolymers (c3) are preferably
constructed exclusively from structural units of formulae (M11-a),
(M6), (M8), and (M12).
[0100] All possible physiologically acceptable anions such as
chloride, bromide, hydrogen sulfate, methyl sulfate, ethyl sulfate,
tetrafluoroborate, phosphate, hydrogen phosphate, dihydrogen
phosphate, or p-toluenesulfonate, triflate, serve to compensate for
the positive polymer charge of component (c3).
[0101] If a methosulfate is used to compensate for the positive
charge of the polymer, such
N-methylvinylimidazole/vinylpyrrolidone/vinylimidazole/methacrylamide
copolymers are referred to according to INCI nomenclature as
Polyquaternium-68 and are obtainable, for example, from BASF under
the trade name Luviquat.RTM. Supreme.
[0102] Very particularly preferred copolymers (c3) contain 1 to 12
mol %, preferably 3 to 9 mol %, and particularly 6 mol % structural
units according to formula (M-11 a), and 45 to 65 mol %, preferably
50 to 60 mol %, and particularly 55 mol % structural units
according to formula (M6), and 1 to 20 mol %, preferably 5 to 15
mol %, and particularly 10 mol % structural units according to
formula (M8), and 20 to 40 mol %, preferably 25 to 35 mol %, and
particularly 29 mol % structural units according to formula
(M12).
[0103] Among the additional cationic film-forming and/or setting
polymers chosen from cationic polymers having at least one
structural element of formula (M11-a), those considered preferred
are: [0104] vinylpyrrolidone/1-vinyl-3-methyl-1H-imidazolium
chloride copolymers (such as the one having the INCI name
Polyquaternium-16 with the commercial designations Luviquat.RTM.
Style, Luviquat.RTM. FC 370, Luviquat.RTM. FC 550, Luviquat.RTM. FC
905, and Luviquat.RTM. HM 552 (BASF SE)), [0105]
vinylpyrrolidone/1-vinyl-3-methyl-1H-imidazolium methyl sulfate
copolymers (such as the one having the INCI name Polyquaternium-44
with the commercial designations Luviquat.RTM. Care (BASF SE)),
[0106]
vinylpyrrolidone/vinylcaprolactam/1-vinyl-3-methyl-1H-imidazolium
terpolymers (such as the one having the INCI name Polyquaternium-46
with the commercial designations Luviquat.RTM. Care or
Luviquat.RTM. Hold (BASF SE)), [0107]
vinylpyrrolidone/methacrylamide/vinylimidazole/1-vinyl-3-methyl-1H-imidaz-
olium methyl sulfate copolymers (such as the one having the INCI
name Polyquaternium-68 with the commercial designation
Luviquat.RTM. Supreme (BASF SE)), as well as mixtures of those
polymers.
[0108] Further cationic polymers preferably usable in agents
according to the present invention are "temporarily cationic"
polymers. These polymers usually contain an amino group that is
present at certain pH values as a quaternary ammonium group and
therefore cationically.
[0109] Likewise considered preferably suitable as temporarily
cationic polymers for purposes of the invention are those having at
least one structural unit of formulae (M1-1) to (M1-8)
##STR00009## ##STR00010##
[0110] Those copolymers having at least one structural unit of
formulae (M1-1) to (M1-8) and additionally at least one structural
unit of formula (M10)
##STR00011##
where n is 1 or 3 are preferred in this context.
[0111] The group of polymers [0112]
vinylcaprolactam/vinylpyrrolidone/dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate
copolymer (for example, INCI name: Vinyl
Caprolactam/PVP/Di-methylaminoethyl Methacrylate Copolymer, under
the trade name Gaffix.RTM. VC 713 (ISP)), [0113]
vinylpyrrolidone/vinylcaprolactam/dimethylaminopropyl
methacrylamide copolymer (e.g. INCI name: VP/Vinyl
Caprolactam/DMAPA Acrylates Copolymer, under the trade name
Aquaflex.RTM. SF 40 (ISP)), [0114]
vinylcaprolactam/vinylpyrrolidone/dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate
copolymer (for example, as 35 to 39% solids in ethanol in the form
of the commercial product Advantage LC E having the INCI name:
Vinyl Caprolactam/VP/Dimethylaminoethyl Methacrylate Copolymer,
Alcohol, Laurylpyrrolidone
(ISP)),vinylpyrrolidone/dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide copolymer
(for example, INCI name: VP/DMAPA Acrylates Copolymer, with the
trade name Styleze CC-10 (ISP)), is considered a preferred list for
selection therefrom of at least one or more polymers.
[0115] Cosmetic agents very particularly preferred according to the
present invention conform to at least one of the following
embodiments A) to O):
[0116] A): A cosmetic agent for the temporary deformation of
keratinic fibers, particularly human hair, containing, in a
cosmetic carrier, [0117] at least one neutralization product of
chitosan with at least one organic carboxylic acid, and [0118] at
least one nonionic starch modified by means of propylene oxide.
[0119] B): A cosmetic agent for the temporary deformation of
keratinic fibers, particularly human hair, containing, in a
cosmetic carrier, [0120] at least one neutralization product of
chitosan with at least one organic carboxylic acid, [0121] at least
one nonionic starch modified by means of propylene oxide, and
[0122] at least one nonionic film-forming and/or nonionic setting
polymer.
[0123] C): A cosmetic agent for the temporary deformation of
keratinic fibers, particularly human hair, containing, in a
cosmetic carrier, [0124] at least one neutralization product of
chitosan with at least one organic carboxylic acid, [0125] at least
one nonionic starch modified by means of propylene oxide, and
[0126] at least one nonionic film-forming and/or nonionic setting
polymer selected from the group that is constituted from [0127]
copolymers of maleic acid anhydride and methyl vinyl ether, [0128]
polyvinylpyrrolidone, [0129] copolymers of N-vinylpyrrolidone and
vinyl esters of carboxylic acids having 2 to 18 carbon atoms,
particularly N-vinylpyrrolidone and vinyl acetate, or mixtures of
those polymers.
[0130] D): A cosmetic agent for the temporary deformation of
keratinic fibers, particularly human hair, containing, in a
cosmetic carrier, [0131] at least one neutralization product of
chitosan with at least one organic carboxylic acid, and [0132] at
least one nonionic starch, modified by means of propylene oxide and
having a molecular weight (weight average) from 50 to 2500 kDa.
[0133] E): A cosmetic agent for the temporary deformation of
keratinic fibers, particularly human hair, containing, in a
cosmetic carrier, [0134] at least one neutralization product of
chitosan with at least one organic carboxylic acid, [0135] at least
one nonionic starch, modified by means of propylene oxide and
having a molecular weight (weight average) from 50 to 2500 kDa, and
[0136] at least one nonionic film-forming and/or nonionic setting
polymer.
[0137] F): A cosmetic agent for the temporary deformation of
keratinic fibers, particularly human hair, containing, in a
cosmetic carrier, [0138] at least one neutralization product of
chitosan with at least one organic carboxylic acid, [0139] at least
one nonionic starch, modified by means of propylene oxide and
having a molecular weight (weight average) from 50 to 2500 kDa, and
[0140] at least one nonionic film-forming and/or nonionic setting
polymer chosen [0141] copolymers of maleic acid anhydride and
methyl vinyl ether, [0142] polyvinylpyrrolidone, [0143] copolymers
of N-vinylpyrrolidone and vinyl esters of carboxylic acids having 2
to 18 carbon atoms, particularly N-vinylpyrrolidone and vinyl
acetate, or mixtures of those polymers.
[0144] G): A cosmetic agent for the temporary deformation of
keratinic fibers, particularly human hair, containing, in a
cosmetic carrier, [0145] at least one neutralization product of
chitosan with at least one organic carboxylic acid, and [0146] at
least one nonionic starch modified with propylene oxide and having
a viscosity in the range from 150 to 1,500,000 mPas, preferably
10,000 to 200,000 mPas, more preferably from 25,000 to 180,000 mPas
(based on a 43-wt % aqueous solution, Brookfield viscosimeter,
spindle 7 at 20.degree. C. and 20 rpm).
[0147] H): A cosmetic agent for the temporary deformation of
keratinic fibers, particularly human hair, containing, in a
cosmetic carrier, [0148] at least one neutralization product of
chitosan with at least one organic carboxylic acid, [0149] at least
one nonionic starch modified with propylene oxide and having a
viscosity in the range from 150 to 1,500,000 mPas, preferably
10,000 to 200,000 mPas, particularly preferably from 25,000 to
180,000 mPas (based on a 43-wt % aqueous solution, Brookfield
viscosimeter, spindle 7 at 20.degree. C. and 20 rpm), and [0150] at
least one nonionic film-forming and/or nonionic setting
polymer.
[0151] I): A cosmetic agent for the temporary deformation of
keratinic fibers, particularly human hair, containing, in a
cosmetic carrier, [0152] at least one neutralization product of
chitosan with at least one organic carboxylic acid, [0153] at least
one nonionic starch modified with propylene oxide and having a
viscosity from 150 to 1,500,000 mPas, preferably 10,000 to 200,000
mPas, particularly preferably from 25,000 to 180,000 mPas (based on
a 43-wt % aqueous solution, Brookfield viscosimeter, spindle 7 at
20.degree. C. and 20 rpm), and [0154] at least one nonionic
film-forming and/or nonionic setting polymer chosen from [0155]
copolymers of maleic acid anhydride and methyl vinyl ether, [0156]
polyvinylpyrrolidone, [0157] copolymers of N-vinylpyrrolidone and
vinyl esters of carboxylic acids having 2 to 18 carbon atoms,
particularly N-vinylpyrrolidone and vinyl acetate, or mixtures of
said polymers.
[0158] J): A cosmetic agent for the temporary deformation of
keratinic fibers, particularly human hair, containing, in a
cosmetic carrier, [0159] at least one neutralization product of
chitosan with at least one organic carboxylic acid, and [0160] at
least one nonionic starch modified with propylene oxide and having
a molecular weight (weight average) from 50 to 2500 kDa and a
viscosity from 150 to 1,500,000 mPas, preferably 10,000 to 200,000
mPas, particularly preferably from 25,000 to 180,000 mPas (based on
a 43-wt % aqueous solution, Brookfield viscosimeter, spindle 7 at
20.degree. C. and 20 rpm).
[0161] K): A cosmetic agent for the temporary deformation of
keratinic fibers, particularly human hair, containing, in a
cosmetic carrier, [0162] at least one neutralization product of
chitosan with at least one organic carboxylic acid, [0163] at least
one nonionic starch modified with propylene oxide and having a
molecular weight (weight average) from 50 to 2500 kDa and a
viscosity from 150 to 1,500,000 mPas, preferably 10,000 to 200,000
mPas, particularly preferably from 25,000 to 180,000 mPas (based on
a 43-wt % aqueous solution, Brookfield viscosimeter, spindle 7 at
20.degree. C. and 20 rpm), and [0164] at least one nonionic
film-forming and/or nonionic setting polymer.
[0165] L): A cosmetic agent for the temporary deformation of
keratinic fibers, particularly human hair, containing, in a
cosmetic carrier, [0166] at least one neutralization product of
chitosan with at least one organic carboxylic acid, [0167] at least
one nonionic starch modified with propylene oxide and having a
molecular weight (weight average) from 50 to 2500 kDa and a
viscosity from 150 to 1,500,000 mPas, preferably 10,000 to 200,000
mPas, particularly preferably from 25,000 to 180,000 mPas (based on
a 43-wt % aqueous solution, Brookfield viscosimeter, spindle 7 at
20.degree. C. and 20 rpm), and [0168] at least one nonionic
film-forming and/or nonionic setting polymer chosen from [0169]
copolymers of maleic acid anhydride and methyl vinyl ether, [0170]
polyvinylpyrrolidone, [0171] copolymers of N-vinylpyrrolidone and
vinyl esters of carboxylic acids having 2 to 18 carbon atoms,
particularly N-vinylpyrrolidone and vinyl acetate, or mixtures of
those polymers.
[0172] M): A cosmetic agent for the temporary deformation of
keratinic fibers, particularly human hair, containing, in a
cosmetic carrier, [0173] at least one neutralization product of
chitosan with at least one organic carboxylic acid, and [0174] at
least one nonionic starch modified with propylene oxide and having
a viscosity from 150 to 1,500,000 mPas, preferably 10,000 to
200,000 mPas, particularly preferably from 25,000 to 180,000 mPas
(based on a 43-wt % aqueous solution, Brookfield viscosimeter,
spindle 7 at 20.degree. C. and 20 rpm), and a propylene oxide
content from 1 to 20 wt %, preferably 4 to 12 wt %, particularly
preferably from 9.5 to 10.5 wt % or from 4.0 to 6.0 wt %, based on
the weight of the modified starch.
[0175] N): A cosmetic agent for the temporary deformation of
keratinic fibers, particularly human hair, containing, in a
cosmetic carrier, [0176] at least one neutralization product of
chitosan with at least one organic carboxylic acid, [0177] at least
one nonionic starch modified with propylene oxide and having a
viscosity from 150 to 1,500,000 mPas, preferably 10,000 to 200,000
mPas, particularly preferably from 25,000 to 180,000 mPas (based on
a 43-wt % aqueous solution, Brookfield viscosimeter, spindle 7 at
20.degree. C. and 20 rpm), and a propylene oxide content from 1 to
20 wt %, preferably 4 to 12 wt %, particularly preferably from 9.5
to 10.5 wt % or from 4.0 to 6.0 wt %, based on the weight of the
modified starch, and [0178] at least one nonionic film-forming
and/or nonionic setting polymer.
[0179] 0): A cosmetic agent for the temporary deformation of
keratinic fibers, particularly human hair, containing, in a
cosmetic carrier, [0180] at least one neutralization product of
chitosan with at least one organic carboxylic acid, [0181] at least
one nonionic starch modified with propylene oxide and having a
viscosity from 150 to 1,500,000 mPas, preferably 10,000 to 200,000
mPas, particularly preferably from 25,000 to 180,000 mPas (based on
a 43-wt % aqueous solution, Brookfield viscosimeter, spindle 7 at
20.degree. C. and 20 rpm), and a propylene oxide content from 1 to
20 wt %, preferably 4 to 12 wt %, particularly preferably from 9.5
to 10.5 wt % or from 4.0 to 6.0 wt %, based on the weight of the
modified starch, and [0182] at least one nonionic film-forming
and/or nonionic setting polymer chosen from [0183] copolymers of
maleic acid anhydride and methyl vinyl ether, [0184]
polyvinylpyrrolidone, [0185] copolymers of N-vinylpyrrolidone and
vinyl esters of carboxylic acids having 2 to 18 carbon atoms,
particularly N-vinylpyrrolidone and vinyl acetate, or mixtures of
said polymers.
[0186] Preferred additional nonionic film-forming and/or nonionic
setting polymers of embodiments A) to O)--when listed--are
polyvinylpyrrolidone, copolymers of N-vinylpyrrolidone and vinyl
acetate, or mixtures thereof.
[0187] Preferred organic carboxylic acids of the neutralization
product of chitosan in accordance with embodiments A) to O) are
chosen from lactic acid, formic acid, pyrrolidonecarboxylic acid,
nicotinic acid, hydroxyisobutyric acid, hydroxyisovaleric acid, or
mixtures of said acids.
[0188] Preferred utilization quantities of the ingredients
according to embodiments A) to O) are those recited previously (see
above).
[0189] It is preferred to additionally use at least one nonionic
surfactant. These surfactants can already, according to the present
invention, have an emulsifying effect.
[0190] Nonionic surfactants contain as a hydrophilic group, for
example, a polyol group, a polyalkylene glycol ether group, or a
combination of a polyol and polyglycol ether group. Such compounds
include: [0191] addition products of 2 to 100 mol ethylene oxide
and/or 1 to 5 mol propylene oxide with linear and branched fatty
alcohols having 8 to 30 carbon atoms, with fatty acids having 8 to
30 carbon atoms, and with alkylphenols having 8 to 15 carbon atoms
in the alkyl group, [0192] addition products of 2 to 20 units of
glycerol with linear or branched fatty alcohols having 8 to 30
carbon atoms in the alkyl group, with linear or branched fatty
acids having 8 to 30 carbon atoms in the alkyl group such as, the
grades obtainable under the marketing designations Dermofeel.RTM. G
10 LW (Straetmans Chemical Products), [0193] addition products,
end-capped with a methyl or C.sub.2 to C.sub.6 alkyl residue, of 2
to 50 mol ethylene oxide and/or 1 to 5 mol propylene oxide with
linear and branched fatty alcohols having 8 to 30 carbon atoms,
with fatty acids having 8 to 30 carbon atoms, and with alkylphenols
having 8 to 15 carbon atoms in the alkyl group, such as, for
example, the grades obtainable under the marketing designations
Dehydol.RTM. LS, Dehydol.RTM. LT (Cognis), [0194] C.sub.12 to
C.sub.30 fatty acid mono- and diesters of addition products of 1 to
30 mol ethylene oxide with glycerol, [0195] addition products of 5
to 60 mol ethylene oxide with castor oil and hardened castor oil,
[0196] polyol fatty acid esters such as the commercial product
Hydagen.RTM. HSP (Cognis), or Sovermol.RTM. grades (Cognis), [0197]
alkoxylated triglycerides, [0198] alkoxylated fatty acid alkyl
esters of formula (E4-I)
[0198] R.sup.1CO--(OCH.sub.2CHR.sup.2).sub.wOR.sup.3 (E4-I),
wherein R.sup.1CO is a linear or branched, saturated and/or
unsaturated acyl residue having 6 to 22 carbon atoms, R.sup.2 is
hydrogen or methyl, R.sup.3 is linear or branched alkyl residues
having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and w is a number from 1 to 20, [0199]
amine oxides, [0200] hydroxy mixed ethers such as those described,
for example, in German Application 19738866, [0201] sorbitan fatty
acid esters and addition products of ethylene oxide with sorbitan
fatty acid esters, for example the polysorbates, [0202] sugar fatty
acid esters and addition products of ethylene oxide with sugar
fatty acid esters, [0203] addition products of ethylene oxide with
fatty acid alkanolamides and fatty amines, [0204] sugar surfactants
of the alkyl and alkenyl oligoglycoside types, in accordance with
formula (E4-II)
[0204] R.sup.4O-[G].sub.p (E4-II), [0205] wherein R.sup.4 is an
alkyl or alkenyl residue having 4 to 22 carbon atoms, G is a sugar
residue having 5 or 6 carbon atoms, and p is a number from 1 to 10.
They can be obtained according to relevant methods of preparative
organic chemistry.
[0206] Particularly preferred for use in the agent according to the
present invention are those nonionic surfactants chosen from [0207]
addition products of 2 to 20 units of glycerol with linear or
branched fatty alcohols having 8 to 30 carbon atoms in the alkyl
group, [0208] addition products of 2 to 20 units of glycerol with
linear or branched fatty acids having 8 to 30 carbon atoms in the
alkyl group, [0209] addition products of 5 to 60 mol ethylene oxide
with castor oil and hardened castor oil, and mixtures of the
aforesaid surfactants.
[0210] Nonionic surfactants are present in the agent preferably in
an amount from 0.005 wt % to 10 wt %, particularly from 0.01 wt %
to 2 wt %, based on the weight of the agent according to the
present invention.
[0211] The agent according to the present invention has acceptable
hair-care properties even without further care-providing
substances. To enhance the hair-care effect, the agent can
additionally contain at least one cationic surfactant. Examples of
cationic surfactants usable in the agents include quaternary
ammonium compounds. Ammonium halides are preferred, particularly
chlorides and bromides, such as alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides,
dialkyldimethylammonium chlorides, and trialkylmethylammonium
chlorides (e.g., cetyltrimethylammonium chloride,
stearyltrimethylammonium chloride, distearyldimethylammonium
chloride, lauryldimethylammonium chloride,
lauryldimethylbenzylammonium chloride, and tricetylmethylammonium
chloride). The highly biodegradable quaternary ester compounds
called "esterquats," such as the
methylhydroxyalkyldialkoyloxyalkylammonium methosulfates marketed
under the trade names Dehyquart.RTM. and Stepantex.RTM., can also
be used.
[0212] Agents according to the present invention are preferably
present as foam. For that purpose, the agents are packaged in a
delivery apparatus that is either a pressurized-gas container
additionally filled with a propellant ("aerosol container") or a
non-aerosol container. Pressurized-gas containers from which a
product is distributed through a valve due to the internal gas
pressure of the container are referred to as "aerosol containers."
A "non-aerosol container" is defined, conversely to the "aerosol"
definition, as a vessel under standard pressure from which a
product is distributed by mechanical action by way of a pump
system.
[0213] Agents according to the present invention are present
particularly preferably as aerosol hair foam in an aerosol
container. The agent therefore preferably additionally contains at
least one propellant. In this connection, embodiments A) to O) are
likewise considered, in particular, as preferably suitable
compositions packaged in an aerosol container with at least one
propellant for providing aerosol foam.
[0214] Agents according to the present invention that are present
in the form of an aerosol product can be manufactured in usual
fashion. All constituents of the agent except for the propellant
are introduced into a suitable pressure-tight container. The latter
is then sealed with a valve. Lastly, the desired quantity of
propellant is introduced using conventional techniques.
[0215] As aerosol foam, propellants suitable according to the
present invention include N2O, dimethyl ether, CO2, air, alkanes
having 3 to 5 carbon atoms such as propane, n-butane, isobutane,
n-pentane, and isopentane, and mixtures thereof. In the embodiment
as aerosol foam, the aforesaid alkanes, mixtures of the aforesaid
alkanes, or mixtures of the aforesaid alkanes with dimethyl ether
are used as the only propellant. The invention also expressly
includes, however, the concurrent use of fluorochlorocarbon
propellants, particularly fluorocarbons.
[0216] Dimethyl ether, propane, n-butane, isobutane, and mixtures
thereof are preferred. Very particularly preferably, mixtures of
propane and butane are used as the only propellant at a weight
ratio of propane to butane from 70:30 to 15:85. These mixtures are
used in the agents preferably in an amount from 3 to 15 wt %, based
on total weight of the agent. "Butane" according to the present
invention is n-butane, isobutane, and mixtures of n-butane and
isobutane. For a given spray apparatus, the sizes of the foam
bubbles and the respective size distribution can be adjusted by the
quantitative ratio between the propellant and the other
constituents of the preparations.
[0217] When conventional aerosol containers are used, aerosol foam
products contain the propellant preferably in amounts from 1 to 35
wt %, based on total product. Quantities from 2 to 30 wt %,
particularly 3 to 15 wt %, are particularly preferred.
[0218] Isopentane is preferably suitable as a propellant for
foaming gel-type agents in a two-chamber aerosol container, said
propellant being is incorporated into the agents according to the
present invention and being packaged in the first chamber of the
two-chamber aerosol container. Packaged in the second chamber of
the two-chamber aerosol container is at least one further
propellant different from isopentane that builds up in the
two-chamber aerosol container a higher pressure than isopentane.
Propellants of the second chamber are preferably chosen from N2O,
dimethyl ether, CO2, air, alkanes having 3 or 4 carbon atoms (such
as propane, n-butane, isobutane), and mixtures thereof.
[0219] A second subject of the invention is the use of a cosmetic
agent of the first subject of the invention for temporary
deformation and/or shape fixing of keratinic fibers, particularly
human hair.
[0220] A third subject of the invention is a method for temporary
deformation of keratinic fibers, particularly human hair, wherein a
cosmetic agent of the first subject of the invention is applied
onto the keratinic fibers.
[0221] Preferably, the keratinic fibers, after application of the
cosmetic agents of the first subject of the invention, are not
rinsed and are left on the fibers.
[0222] The Examples that follow are intended to explain the subject
matter of the present invention without in any way limiting
them.
EXAMPLES
[0223] The following formulation according to the present invention
was manufactured in an aerosol container as an aerosol foam
product:
TABLE-US-00001 Raw material I1 (wt %) Hydagen HCMF.sup.1 0.50
Lactic acid 0.28 Luviskol 60/40 W NP.sup.2 10.70 Nonionic starch
modified by means of propylene oxide.sup.3 2.70 Sodium benzoate
0.30 D-Panthenol 0.15 Dow Corning 939.sup.4 0.20 Dehyquart A
CA.sup.5 1.00 Propane/butane 8.00 Water to 100 .sup.1Chitosan (80%
deacetylated), molecular weight 50,000 to 1,000,000 g/mol, Cognis)
.sup.2Copolymer of N-vinylpyrrolidone and vinyl acetate
.sup.3Potato starch, propylene oxide content: 10 wt % propylene
oxide, viscosity: 64,000 mPa s, average molecular weight (weight
average): 800 kDa .sup.4Approx. 32 to 26% active substance, INCI
name: Amodimethicone, Trideceth-12, Cetrimonium Chloride (Dow
Corning) .sup.5Trimethylhexadecylammonium chloride (approx. 24 to
26% active substance, INCI name: Aqua (Water), Cetrimonium
Chloride) (Cognis)
[0224] Formulation I1 was applied onto a test subject as an aerosol
foam in order to fix the hairstyle as to shape. The hair achieved a
natural shine, a strong hairstyle hold, and durable volume.
* * * * *